' 


TjT^JEI-^-JEIIT    EDITIOK". 


THE 


TRAVELS  AND  ADVENTURES 


OF 


CELEBRATED  TRAVELERS 


IN    THE 


PRINCIPAL   COUNTRIES 


OF 


THE  WORLD. 

1 1 


NEW,    REVISED,    LIBRARY    EDITION,    ILLUSTRATED   WITH    STEEL 
PLATES,    COLORED    ENGRAVINGS,    ETC. 


BY 

HENRY    HOWE, 

AUTHOR  OP   "HISTORICAL  COLLECTIONS  TJF  VIRGINIA,"    "HISTORICAL 
COLLECTIONS  OF  OHIO,"   ETC. 


CINCINNATI: 
PUBLISHED   BY   HENRY   HOWE. 

NO.  118  WEST  FOURTH  STREET. 

1870. 


tr 


Entered,  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  18rj8,  by 

HENRY    HOWE, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Distrio     jf  Ohio, 


PRINTING  COMPANY. 
Bt*r*oiyp«ti.  and  Btndart. 
nam  it.,  vui  mhv 


/  4 

o  0 


'o 


it 7a 


PREFACE 


The  whole  world  are  now  near  neighbors.  Only  a  short  time 
olnce,  he  who  had  circumnavigated  the  globe  was  looked  upon  with 
wonder,  as  among  the  favored  of  mortals.  Now,  he  whose  dwelling  is 
the  nearest  to  your  own,  may,  within  a  few  months,  have  visited  u  the 
uttermost  parts  of  the  earth,"  and  the  fact  not  considered  sufficiently 
novel  for  your  knowledge. 

With  rapidly  increasing  intercourse  all  the  world  is  changing. 
Commerce,  the  great  civilizer,  is  introducing  us  to  everybody  and 
everybody  to  us.  Such  a  general  shaking  of  hands  never  was  before 
seen  since  Father  Time  commenced  his  travels.  Such  a  universal 
interchange  of  ideas  never  entered  the  conception  of  the  wisest  of  the 
ancients.  Such  a  magnificent  "  clearing"  was  never  before  opened  to 
the  Pioneer  in  Enterprise.  Everybody  is  learning  something  from 
everybody.  Civilized  nations  are  consequently  growing  more  liberal 
and  more  humane,  and  those  not  civilized  are  fast  becoming  so. 

To  the  inhabitants  of  a  far-distant  isle,  the  first  vessel  whose  canvas 
is  seen  whitening  their  seas,  is  a  mighty  idea  —  not  "  even  their 
fathers  dreamed  so  great  a  thing ;"  and  if  this  be  succeeded  by  others 
and  commerce  springs  up,  then,  with  new  ideas  arise  new  wants,  and 
for  the  gratification  of  these  comes  industry — the  germ  of  all  civiliza- 
tion. If  still  more  favored,  a  stranger,  with  a  benign  countenance  and 
a  book  in  his  hand,  lands  upon  their  island.  He  brings  "  glad  tidings 
of  great  joy,"  proclaiming  "  Peace  on  earth  and  good  will  to  man." 
Through  the  power  of  his  words  the  islanders  cast  down  their  idols, 
they  no  longer  sacrifice  to  false  gods ;  they  become  charmed  with  the 
moral  heroism  of  Him  who  came  and  offered  his  life  for  their  good,  and 
christian  civilization  is  begun — that  which  is  to  leap  from  isle  to  isle — - 
to  penetrate  the  remotest  recesses  of  every  land,  and  to  bring  all 

nations  into  one  brotherhood. 

(iii) 

w37£586 


iv  PREFACE. 

Not  to  "  know  the  world,"  was  excusable  in  olden  times,  wnen 
people  dressed  in  homespun  and  ate  from  wooden  trenchers ;  but  for 
us,  whose  first  act  in  rising  is  to  jump  out  of,  and  into,  cloth  made  in 
foreign  lands,  and  who  grumble  if  the  first  morning's  meal  is  not 
agreeably  seasoned  by  condiments  from  the  antipodes,  there  can  be  no 
apology.  To  contribute  to  such  a  knowledge  is  the  design  of  this 
volume :  to  satisfy  it  completely,  so  as  to  know  perfectly  all  people,  is 
somewhat  further  than  we  can  go.  It  would,  for  instance,  be  a  plea- 
sant task  could  we,  for  the  reader's  benefit,  by  some  process  spiritually 
uncap  the  cranium  of  a  Chinaman  or  of  an  Arab,  take  a  peep  into  his 
mental  workshop,  and  watch  its  operations  for  a  single  day:  but  this 
being  one  of  those  curious  undertakings  not  permitted  us  with  even 
our  own  townspeople — some  of  whom,  with  all  our  researches,  remain 
to  this  hour  complete  enigmas  to  us — it  cannot  be  expected  we  should 
"  take  such  liberties  with  strangers." 

We  can  however  do  this  much ;  we  can  describe  the  country  the 
Chinaman  lives  in  ;  how  he  grows  his  tea,  and  does  his  farming; 
how  he  spends  his  boyhood — the  games  he  plays — the  sort  of  school 
he  attends  —  the  books  he  studies  and  the  way  he  is  flogged  —  how  he 
trades  and  what  in  —  what  he  makes  and  how  it  is  made  —  the  kind 
of  house  he  lives  in  and  the  way  it  is  furnished  —  how  he  courts  and 
gets  married  —  what  he  thinks  of  his  wife  —  how  much  of  his  boys 
and  how  little  of  his  girls  —  his  general  ideas  of  the  world  and  of 
matters  and  things  in  general  —  what  he  regards  as  "  the  chief  end 
of  man,"  and  where  he  thinks  his  spirit  is  going  when  the  grand 
routine  of  all  his  doings  and  thinkings  here  below  is  terminated,  and 
the  mortal  remains  of  the  poor  Chinaman  are  consigned  to  the  "tomb 
of  his  ancestors." 

Obtain  this  kind  of  knowledge  of  the  principal  people  of  the  world 
and  we  obtain  that  which  liberalizes.  Something  is  possessed 
to  think  of  and  watch,  beside  the  shape  of  the  furrow  our  own  plow 
turns  over,  the  small  gossip  of  our  own  little  neighborhood,  or 
the  dirty  bubbles  that  come  walloping  up  from  the  bottom  of  our 
own  political  cauldron.  We  get,  too,  a  more  "  realizing  sense"  of  the 
important  truth — that  it  is  circumstance  which  creates  national,  alike 
with  individual  characteristics ;  and  out  of  this  grows  charity  for 
peculiar  national  ideas  and  for  heterodox  personal  opinions.  Readily 
do  we  see,  had  we  been  transported  in  babyhood  to  China  and  reared 
in  a  Chinese  family,  we  should  have  rejoiced  in  a  queue  a  yard  or  more 
long;  thought  angular  eyes  and  deformed  feet  the  acme  of  beauty;  the 


PREFACE.  v 

world  square,  like  a  table ;  Confucius  the  most  pre-eminent  of  mortals, 
and  China  the  greatest  of  all  countries  ;  or  had  Turkey  been  the  scene 
of  our  rearing,  we  should  have  considered  the  most  agreeable  position 
in  life,  the  cross-legged ;  perhaps  have  been  gladdened  with  a  whole 
regiment  of  wives,  would  have  called  down  the  curses  of  Allah  upon 
the  "unbelieving  dogs  of  Christians,"  and  may  be,  have  joined  a  troop 
of  whirling  or  of  howling  dervishes. 

Various  are  the  uses  of  such  information — a  topic  we  could  expand 
into  an  essay,  but  not  here,  this  being  the  place  in  which  he  who 
makes  a  book  is  expected  to  devote  to  a  chat  with  those  who  read  it, 
though,  it  is  said,  the  latter  rarely  deign  to  listen  to  what  he  has  to 
communicate. 

Some  two  years  since,  while  engaged  in  our  vocation  as  a  publisher 
of  books  circulated  by  subscription  solely,  we  commenced  condensing 
such  works  of  travel  as  were  judged  best  suited  to  the  wants  of  those 
who  have  heretofore  obtained  our  publications ;  and  the  result  is  the 
respectable-sized  volume  you  now  hold.  Our  endeavor  was  to  make 
it  elementary,  so  that  it  would  be  adapted  to  any  unlettered  person 
whose  eye  should  traverse  its  pages.  To  such,  if  an  unknown  word 
or  allusion  be  given  without  an  accompanying  explanation,  the  charm 
of  the  most  interesting  narrative  is  marred,  and  if  frequent,  he  arises 
dissatisfied  from  the  perusal.  There  is  no  fact  in  nature  or  in  science, 
not  too  abstruse  for  the  learned,  which  is  too  abstruse  for  the  common 
apprehension,  if  the  successive  steps  to  it  be  closely  connected  and  in 
the  right  direction,  for  the  human  mind  is  essentially  the  same  in  all, 
and  each  brain  has  its  own  full  set  of  tools. 

This,  like  our  other  publications,  is  intended  to  be  disposed  of  by 
subscription  solely.  This  mode  of  circulating  literature,  as  practiced 
in  this  countiy,  is  peculiarly  an  American  invention.  In  Europe  it  is 
adopted  to  insure,  in  advance,  the  expense  of  costly  works — with  us, 
as  a  method  —  for  the  convenience  of  the  purchasers — of  engaging 
sales  after  a  book  has  been  issued.  Our  mode  has  grown  out  of 
the  general  desire  at  large  for  information,  and  the  difficulties  expe- 
rienced by  the  mass  in  procuring  just  the  kind  adapted  to  them ;  for 
it  should  be  remembered  that  the  regular  book-merchant  —  the  trader 
in  ideas  —  is  the  very  last  man  who  emigrates  —  the  very  last  to  be 
established  in  a  young  community,  and  solely  too  from  the  absence 
of  a  demand  for  his  services.  Taking  the  whole  land  through,  doubt- 
less a  thousand  establishments  have  been  reared  to  supply  the  animal 
appetite  for  liquid  stimulus  to  one  erected  to  minister  to  the  intellect, 


yi  PREFACE. 

by  the  sale  of  books ;  and  further,  millions  of  our  people  never  in 
their  lives  have  even  entered  a  bookstore,  and  millions  upon  millions 
do  not  annually  average  the  possession  of  a  single  new  book.  With 
all  our  self-congratulated  civilization,  the  mass  of  even  our  most 
enlightened  communities  is  far  behind  a  proper  standard  of  cultiva- 
tion, as  is  illustrated  by  the  universal  desire  for  tinsel  and  display — 
by  the  fawning  to  those  who  by  the  exercise  of  abhorrent  qualities 
have  accumulated  an  unusual  share  of  externals ;  in  the  want  of  value 
for  genuine  worth  and  in  a  true  idea  of  the  objects  of  life  generally. 
In  fact,  Ignorance  everywhere  rears  his  stupid  front,  and  among  the 
best  weapons  with  which  to  vanquish  him  are  books,  and  in  the  inte- 
rior, with  a  vast  number,  the  habit  of  obtaining  and  of  using  these 
will  not  be  acquired  unless  brought  to  their  very  doors. 

This  volume  is  principally  composed  of  abridgments  from  a  great 
variety  of  sources,  as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  another  page,  where 
Authorities  are  given.  "Works  so  constructed,  and  this  mode  of  circu- 
lating them,  are  among  the  most  useful  of  instrumentalities  in  the 
universal  diffusion  of  knowledge,  the  fruits  of  which  tend  to  the  per- 
manent happiness  and  elevation  of  our  common  humanity. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


This  is  the  first  revised  edition  of  this  work.  It 
contains  some  new  and  valuable  articles  especially 
adapted  to  the  times,  as  "Prussia  in  1870;"  "France  under 
Louis  Napoleon;"  "The  Chinese  as  Emigrants  and  Colonizers,"  etc. 

It  forms  the  first  of  a  series  to  be  issued  under  the 
general  title  of 

jjbrarg  of    Inshptdhre  and  Jnte^mnmg   Janpftr^ 

These  boohs  are  to  be  regarded  as  standard  family 
works  of  historic  value— not,  therefore,  of  a  mere  tem- 
porary interest^  but  for  all  time. 

Each  volume  of  this  library 
Will  be  complete  in  itself, 


S^"  Will  be  uniform  in  size,  style  and  price  with  the 
others, 

&^  Will  be  sold  separately, 

M^And  on  very  moderate  terms. 


O  O  IN"  T  IE  IN"  T  S . 


* 


Page. 

PRUSSIA   IN    1870, 13 

COCHRANE'S   PEDESTRIAN   JOURNEY   THROUGH 

RUSSIA   AND   SIBERIA, 27 

EMANCIPATION   OF   THE   SERFS   IN   RUSSIA,   .     .  6Q 

THE   FUTURE   OF   RUSSIA, 6$ 

SCENES   AND   EXCURSIONS    IX    SWITZERLAND,    .  71 

A  SUMMER   IN   SCOTLAND, 97 

WILKES'     EXPLORING     EXPEDITION     TO     THE 

PACIFIC, 113 

BARTLETT'S   GLIMPSES   OF    EGYPT, 145 

M.   LESSEPS   AND   THE   SUEZ   CANAL, 171 

THE   FUTURE   OF   EGYPT, 173 

FORBES'  FIVE   YEARS   IN   CHINA, 175 

THE     CHINESE      AS     EMIGRANTS     AND     COLO- 
NIZERS,    209 

A   SOJOURN   AMONG   THE   TURKS, 217 

AN   AMERICAN   IN   FRANCE, 241 

FRANCE   UNDER   LOUIS   NAPOLEON, 25<) 

A  NEW    ENGLANDER   IN   OLD   ENGLAND,     .     .     .  267 

ADVENTURES  AND   DISCOVERIES   IN   AFRICA,    .  305 

(ix) 


x  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

ORIGIN   AND   HISTORY   OF   SLAVERY,       ....  355 

ADVENTURES     AND     EXPLORATIONS     IN     THE 
POLAR     REGIONS,    FROM     THE     EARLIEST 

DAYS, 369 

WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN  IN  GER- 
MANY,       413 

PERRY'S     EXPEDITION     TO    JAPAN,    WITH    NO- 
TICES   OF    THE    JAPANESE, 437 

AUSTRALIA,   WITH   LIFE  THERE, 457 

RUINED   CITIES    OF   CENTRAL   AMERICA,     .     .     .  475 

LIFE   IN   INDIA, 507 

RAILROADS   IN    HINDOOSTAN,     .     . 544 

FISK'S  TRAVELS   IN   ITALY, 547 

A  FEW   DAYS  IN   POLAND, 580 

LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION  TO  THE  DEAD   SEA,    .     .  591 

OBSERVATIONS  IN   NORWAY   AND   SWEDEN,  .     .  602 


PRUSSIA    IN    1870 


Prussia  Described — Prussia  and  France — Prussian  Soldiers — The  sudden  Popularity  of  the 
King — Ignorance  of  Languages — German  Farm  Life — Rude  Agriculture — American 
plows — Berlin  the  Capital — Mr.  Bancroft,  the  American  Minister — The  Prussian  Par- 
liament— King  William — Sketch  of  Bismarck — General  Moltke — Various  Public 
Characters — How  the  People  live. 

Prussia  is  doubtless  to  Americans,  at  this  present  time,  the  most  interesting 
country  in  Europe.  It  is  not  for  what  she  has  been,  nor  for  what  she  is,  but 
the  promise  of  a  great  future  that  especially  attracts.  That  future  means  the 
entire  German  nation — about  forty  millions  of  people — united  under  one 
government  and  one  code  of  laws.  For  a  century,  the  German  people  have 
been  struggling  for  German  unity,  but  the  ambitions  of  different  states  and 
kingdoms,  for  an  independent  existence,  have  delayed,  but  can  not  prevent 
the  final  consummation. 

The  aspirations  of  the  German  nation  for  political  unity,  led,  in  1866,  to  the 
war  between  Austria  and  Prussia,  resulting  in  the  defeat  of  Austria  and  the  dis- 
solution of  the  old  German  Diet.  The  reorganization  which  followed  the  war 
is  regarded  nowhere  as  a  permanent  settlement,  but  only  as  a  temporary  com- 
promise for  avoiding  new  and  serious  complications.  The  present  war  with 
France  was  made  by  Louis  Napoleon  through  fear  of  the  overshadowing  power 
of  Prussia. 

By  the  war  with  Austria,  Prussia  gained  great  accessions  of  population  and 
territory,  and  took  position  as  one  of  the  leading  powers  of  Europe.  Her 
population  was  increased  from  eighteen  millions  to  about  thirty  millions  of 
people,  and  her  territory  from  one  hundred  and  eight  thousand  to  one  hundred 
and  thirty-five  thousand  square  miles ;  consisting  of  Prussia  and  the  German 
States  north  of  the  river  Main.  Hence,  Prussia  is  sometimes  designated 
North  Germany,  and  the  union,  "The  North  German  Confederation." 
Her  area  is  a  trifle  less  than,  that  of  the  combined  states  of  New  York, 
Pennsylvania  and  Virginia.  In  North  Germany  71  per  cent,  of  the  popu- 
lation are  Protestant,  and  26  per  cent.  Catholic.  In  South  Germany  the 
Catholic  element  predominates. 

The  man  to  whose  foresight  Prussia  owes  her  recent  rapid  advance  to  a  first 
rate  power,  is  Count  Otto  Von  Bismarck,  who,  in  clearness  and  massiveness 
of  intellect,  stands  confessedly  at  the  head  of  the  statesmen  of  Europe. 

13 


14  PRUSSIA  IN  1870. 

It  was  in  the  summer  of  1867  that  our  countryman,  Rev.  Dr.  Bellows, 
traveled  in  Prussia.  In  his  published  letters,  he  presents  his  impressions  of 
the  national  life  at  the  very  interesting  period  in  the  history  of  the  country. 
One  of  the  most  thoughtful  and  observant  of  travelers,  his  letters,  from  which 
we  make  a  few  extracts,  are  particularly  instructive.     He  says  : 

"Passing  from  Holland  into  Prussia  we  found  ourselves,  the  moment  we 
crossed  the  frontier,  in  a  military  country,  and  felt  at  once  the  change  from  a 
nation  at  rest  and  in  the  ordinary  condition  of  things,  to  a  nation  aroused  ancj 
thrilled  through  and  through  with  new  life  and  ambition. 

The  depots  seemed  almost  American  in  the  activity  and  crowded  appear- 
ance they  presented.  Soldiers  were  almost  as  thick  as  civilians,  and  they 
looked  like  men  with  business  on  hand,  and  not  mere  frames  for  uniforms. 
The  country,  too,  though  old  and  uninteresting  in  itself,  presented  an  appear- 
ance of  rapid  improvement,  and  looked  new  with  its  new  life.  The  further 
we  have  gone  into  Prussia,  the  more  the  awaking  of  the  nation  has  struck  us. 
The  recent  war  has  put  this  country  into  a  striking  sympathy  with  the 
United  States  in  the  revival  of  all  its  energies,  the  consciousness  of  power, 
and  the  prevalence  of  the  sentiment  of  nationality.  The  mighty  and  suc- 
cessful effort  it  lately  made  against  Austria,  so  far  from  exhausting  its  strength 
or  ambition,  has  only  nerved  it  for  greater  things,  and  aroused  every  drop  of 
military  feeling  in  a  people  who  have  not  forgotten  Frederick  the  Great. 

The  Luxembourg  question  was  settled,  not  without  much  resistance  from 
the  popular  feeling,  which  would  have  enjoyed  an  opportunity  of  measuring 
swords  with  France.  How  long  the  itch  for  a  chance  to  pay  off  old  scores 
with  their  natural  enemy,  as  Prussia  holds  France  to  be,  will  be  controlled  by 
prudent  statesmanship,  remains  to  be  seen.  But  we  saw  daily  evidences  that 
among  the  people  at  large,  and  especially  the  army,  war  with  France  would 
bring  every  Prussian  to  the  front,  and  render  almost  any  amount  of  personal 
sacrifice  easy. 

We  are  too  warm  lovers  of  the  new  German  Empire — for  that  is  *he 
manifest  destiny  of  things  here — to  wish  to  see  it  risked  by  a  war  with 
France.  Meanwhile,  let  us  confess  the  strength  of  the  favorable  impression 
all  the  Prussian  officers  have  made  upon  us.  A  handsomer,  more  intelligent, 
or  more  spirited  set  of  soldiers,  we  have  never  met.  They  certainly  wholly 
outshine  the  French  officers  in  mere  exterior  promise.  Tall,  well-made, 
soldier- like  in  bearing,  they  have  the  manners  of  educated  gentlemen,  and 
look  as  fit  for  peace  as  for  war. 

The  King  of  Prussia,  a  man  of  seventy,  it  will  be  recollected,  succeeded 
his  brother  only  five  years  ago,  although,  owing  to  the  paralytic  condition  of 
the  late  King,  he  had  been  regent  for  ten  years  before  he  came  to  the  throne. 
A  great  stickler  for  military  etiquette  and  discipline,  and  a  determined  up- 
holder of  his  prerogative,  he  has  never  been  porjular  with  the  liberal  party, 
nor  indeed  with  the  people  generally,  until  since  the  late  war.  Two  years  ago 
he  shared  with  Count  Bismarck  the  odium  of  dissolving  the  Parliament  be- 


PRUSSIA  IN  1870.  15 

cause  it  would  not  vote  supplies  for  an  increase  of  the  army.  The  wisdom 
of  the  policy  they  had  steadily  pursued,  of  increasing  and  every  way  strength- 
ening the  military  power  of  the  country,  has  now  been  revealed  by  the  results 
of  the  struggle  with  Austria  and  the  consolidation  of  North  Germany  with 
Prussia ;  and  the  popularity  of  King  William  and  his  Prime  Minister  has 
suddenly  become  quite  overwhelming.  Even  the  liberals  begin  to  believe  the 
government  friendly  to  their  hopes.  The  King  himself,  whom  I  saw  at 
Paris,  and  again  at  Ems,  looks  like  a  sensible,  serious  and  simple-minded 
man.  He  rode  last  Saturday  into  Ems,  which  was  decked  out  in  charming 
holiday  attire  to  receive  him,  with  a  simplicity  quite  extraordinary.  A  single 
outrider  preceded  him.  His  carriage  was  unaccompanied  by  others.  He  had 
one  officer  on  the  seat  with  him — and  two  mounted  men  followed.  He  wore 
a  rather  plain  uniform,  and  the  fatigue  cap  of  Prussian  officers.  Nothing 
could  be  less  pretentious.  The  country  people  from  the  neighborhood  had 
assembled  to  greet  their  new  king.  The  streets  were  gay  with  triumphal 
arches  and  flags  and  garlands.  Thousands  of  small  trees  had  been  brought 
from  the  forest  and  stuck  into  the  pavements,  to  wear  for  a  day  or  two  the 
appearance  of  growth  and  permanency — the  most  expensive  and  elaborate 
form  of  festive  decoration  I  ever  saw  undertaken,  and  wonderfully  successful. 
The  King  spent  two  or  three  days  in  the  little  watering-place,  and  moved 
about  with  almost  the  freedom  of  a  private  person,  exhibiting  no  distrust  of 
his  subjects,  and  meeting  everywhere  with  hearty  and  affectionate  respect. 
Count  Bismarck  was  not  with  him.  He  is,  however,  very  popular,  and  not 
insensible  to  his  laurels.  I  heard  this  story  from  a  good  source  at  Paris : 
Some  one  said  to  the  Count,  "  Was  not  your  excellency  afraid  that  the  people 
at  Paris,  instead  of  shouting  'Vive  le  Roi,'  would  cry  'Vive  Bismarck?'" 
"No,"  said  the  Count;  "I  knew  exactly  what  they  would  say,  and  it  was 
far  more  gratifying  than  anything  else  they  could  have  said.  First  '.  Vive  le 
Roi,'  and  then  '  Voila  Bismarck.'"  And  certainly  "Voila  Bismarck,"  on 
every  occasion  when  he  moved  in  any  public  procession,  was  the  general  ex- 
clamation. Everybody  was  curious  to  see  him,  and  eager  to  point  him  out 
to  his  neighbor. 

Dusseldorf  is  a  model  German  town,  solid,  dull,  devoted  to  art  and  music, 
with  a  fine  park  and  capital  accommodations  for  the  first  necessity  of  the 
Germans,  a  place  for  gathering  over  their  wine  and  beer  with  their  wives  and 
children*  and  spending  at  least  two  evenings  in  the  week  in  the  open  air,  with 
orchestral  music  and  pleasant  chat.  The  night  I  passed  in  town  happened  to 
be  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Koniggratz,  and  from  5  to  10  p.  m.  the 
best  portion  of  the  citizens  were  in  the  tea-garden,  adjoining  the  town-hall, 
enjoying  the  rational  amusement  of  excellent  music  from  two  bands,  one  of 
strings  and  the  other  of  brass,  who  alternated  with  each  other.  Had  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Total  Abstinence  Society  entered  that  assembly  and  seen  a  hundred 
tables  covered  with  bottles  half  empty,  of  every  shape  and  color,  mingled 
with  mugs  of  beer  and  cups  of  tea  and  coffee,  and  men,  women  and  children 


16  PRUSSIA  IN  1870. 

seated  about  them,  and  all  partaking  of  the  various  drinks,  he  would  have 
been  in  despair  at  the  complete  sway  of  wine-bibbing  among  the  people  of 
Dusseldorf./  The  first  ladies  and  gentlemen,  the  ministers  of  religion,  the 
young  women,  the  old  men,  the  innocent  children,  all  would  have  been  in  one 
condemnation — a  wine-bibbing  generation.  And  yet  a  careful  survey  of  the 
garden  would  have  failed  to  show  one  single  person  excited  to  indiscretion  or 
the  loss  of  self-control — one  single  noisy  or  tipsy  man.  And  here  for  four 
or  five  hours  are  whole  families  in  the  open  air,  engaged  in  domestic  and  social 
chat,  enjoying  music  and  the  sympathy  of  their  fellow -creatures  instead  of 
being  scattered  and  divided  as  with  us — the  old  here,  the  young  there,  the 
men  in  one  place,  the  women  in  another.  As  I  looked  upon  the  cheerfulness 
and  moderation,  the  cordial  intercourse,  the  absence  of  carking  cares,  or  of 
haste  and  self-condemnation  in  this  German  tea-garden,  I  felt  that  Germany 
understood  social  life  far  better  than  any  portion  of  America.  As  to  the  at- 
tempt to  abolish  drunkenness  in  America  by  a  general  assault  upon  the  use 
of  all  things  that  can  intoxicate,  it  is  well  meant,  and  has  its  excellent  effects. 
But  it  is  greatly  to  be  feared  that  it  is  not  enough  in  accordance  with  natural 
laws  to  be  a  permanent  influence.  We  must  improve  family  life,  and  specially 
must  we  cultivate  the  participation  of  men  and  women,  old  and  young,  in 
common  pleasures,  before  we  can  hope  to  exorcise  the  demon  of  excess  and 
sensuality  from  American  society." 

In  his  letter  on  German  life,  Dr.  Bellows  says : 

"  Ignorance  of  the  languages  is  a  terrible  obstacle  to  any  clear  and  satis- 
factory intercourse  with  the  natives  of  European  countries.  Americans 
associate  abroad  almost  exclusively  with  each  other,  and  are  essentially  blind 
and  deaf  to  the  inner  life  or  usages  and  experiences  of  the  peoples  they  visit. 
They  return  home  with  erroneous  impressions,  superficial  views,  and  the  prej- 
udices they  brought  with  them.  I  speak  from  a  humiliating  experience,  and 
feel  that  all  I  venture  to  say  upon  what  interests  me  more  than  anything  else, 
the  moral  life  of  the  countries  I  am  journeying  in,  is  subject  to  the  deduction 
of  a  very  limited  range  and  a  very  shallow  depth  of  observation. 

I  was  fortunate  enough  yesterday  to  visit  a  German  gentleman  of  wealth, 
intelligence,  and  a  ripe  experience,  who  had  lived,  twenty  years  ago,  long 
enough  in  America  to  acquire  a  thorough  knowledge  of  our  language,  insti- 
tutions, manners  and  feelings,  and  who  had  been  long  enough  back  in  his  na- 
tive country  to  have  all  the  familiarity  with  its  present  life  and  all  the  German 
feeling  essential  to  a  proper  account  of  the  existing  condition  of  Germany. 
In  company  with  a  late  Governor  of  Rhode  Island,  with  Mr.  Wells,  the  Com- 
missioner of  Revenue,  and  our  excellent  and  devoted  American  Consul-General 
at  Frankfort,  Mr.  Murphy,  I  had  the  valuable  opportunity  of  an  hour  or  two 
of  conversation  with  Herr  G.  There  were  four  of  us  pelting  him  with  in- 
quiries, note-book  in  hand,  and  a  more  ready,  competent  and  unfailing  wit- 
ness and  furnisher  of  precise  and  valuable  information  I  never  yet  saw  under 
the  process  of  cross-questioning.     He  is  one  of  those  men  the  whole  business 


PRUSSIA  IN  1870.  17 

)f  whosfc  remaining  life  should  be  to  answer  intelligent  questions  concerning 
the  economic  and  social  life  of  Germany.  I  never  happened  to  meet  his  su- 
perior in  quick  apprehension  and  explicit  and  full  information,  in  the  sphere 
of  e very-day  observation. 

The  village  in  which  Herr  G.  lives  is  half-way  between  Homburg  and 
Frankfort,  on  the  banks  of  the  little  river  Neider.  There  he  has  a  large  farm, 
which  he  carries  on  under  his  own  eye  for  a  part  of  the  year,  living  in  the 
winter  in  Frankfort.  He  raises  pretty  much  everything  that  is  grown  in  the 
Middle  States  of  America.  He  sends  milk  to  market,  and  his  cattle  are  all 
stall-fed.  His  cows  continue  perfectly  healthy,  although  they  never  leave 
their  stable.  A  cow  is  worth  about  forty  dollars,  a  farm-horse  about  sixty. 
Common  field-laborers  are  hired  at  about  twenty-four  dollars  a  year  wages, 
with  their  board,  which  is  estimated  to  cost  about  sixty  dollars  a  head  more. 

Women  receive  only  about  sixteen  dollars  a  year,  and  are  allowed  the  same 
quantity  of  food.  Their  daily  ration  is  two  pounds  of  bread,  about  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  cheese,  sufficient  potatoes,  with  butter  or  lard  to  cook  them 
with,  on  four  days  of  the  week,  and  every  other  day  a  half-pound  of  meat, 
beef,  mutton  or  veal.  Cabbages,  which  are  sold  at  a  dollar  the  hundred 
head,  are  considered  an  article  of  luxury,  and  do  not  enter  into  the  common 
food  of  the  laboring  class.  The  farm-hands  are  not  furnished  from  the  vil- 
lage ;  they  come  from  Bavaria  and  the  Fulda  country,  where  they  have  little 
patches  of  land  and  cottages  to  which  they  return  in  the  winter.  The  vil- 
lagers have  usually,  in  this  Rhine  region  and  about  the  Main,  a  little  farm  of 
perhaps  ten,  fifteen,  twenty  acres,  which  they  work  themselves,  and  from  which 
they  draw  their  living.  These  little  strips  of  farm-land  are  worth  from  8500 
to  8800  per  acre. 

There  is  no  considerable  chance  for  labor-saving  implements  of  agriculture  in 
a  country  where  labor  is  so  cheap.  Still,  improved  plows  are  gradually  creeping 
in.  Mr.  G.  introduced  a  new  American  plow  into  his  fields  a  few  years  ago,  and 
an  interdict  was  immediately  put  upon  it  by  the  council  of  the  village.  He 
was  obliged  to  apply  to  the  highest  authority  in  his  country  for  a  reversal  of 
this  restraining  process.  It  was  granted,  and  he  put  his  plow  to  work.  The 
next  season  the  whole  potato  crop  in  the  neighborhood  failed,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Mr.  G.'s.  This  put  the  farmers  on  inquiry,  and  it  was  discovered 
that  a  few  inches  deeper  plowing  with  the  new  implement  had  carried  the 
roots  beyond  the  source  of  the  rot,  and  the  farmers  at  once  adopted  quite 
generally  the  American  plow.  It  is  in  this  way  that  improvements  are  slowly 
but  surely  creeping  into  the  costly  and  wasteful  methods  of  this  German 
gardening,  which  is  here  called  farming. 

Farm-labor  is  not  intelligent.  It  is  chiefly  Catholic  in  its  origin,  and, 
comes  from  regions  that  ai  e  not  enterprising  or  forehanded  enough  to  emigrate 
to  America.  The  emigration  to  our  country  is  usually  from  districts  the  most 
advanced  in  comfort  and  mental  activity,  and  it  is  the  best  and  not  the  worst- 
part  of  the  laboring  population  that  goes  to  America. 
2 


18  PRUSSIA  IN   1870. 

A  certain  kind  of  elementary  education  is  compulsory  in  Prussia  and  over 
Germany  generally.  The  government  furnishes  the  teachers,  but  the  parents 
of  the  children  pay  their  wages.  If  any  are  too  poor  to  do  this,  the  expense 
falls  upon  the  village.  The  cost  of  roads  and  bridges  and  their  maintenance 
is  a  tax  on  the  village.  Each  village  has  its  burgomaster  and  its  council. 
The  chief  officer,  or  mayor,  is  paid  a  small  salary  of  from  fifty  to  one  hun- 
dred florins  (forty  cents  is  a  florin).  The  council,  elected  by  the  villagers,  has 
authority  to  lay  taxes  and  collect  them.  These  villagers  are  often  intelligent, 
and  very  commonly  take  a  weekly  newspaper.  Their  houses,  huddled  too 
much  together,  and  with  none  of  the  charms  of  our  American  village-homes, 
are  yet  comfortable,  and  the  streets  are  usually  cleanly ;  but  the  appearance  is 
gloomy  and  monotonous.  The  villagers,  however,  meet  after  their  day's  work, 
to  talk  over  local  and  personal  matters  and  to  discuss  politics  over  their  beer 
and  pipe,  and  are  not  without  enlightened  views  of  their  interests." 

In  October,  our  traveler  was  at  Berlin,  the  third  city  in  Europe.     He  writes : 

"  Berlin — the  capital  of  Prussia  and  the  center  of  German  power,  material, 
intellectual  and  political — is  situated  on  a  small,  stagnant  stream,  called  the 
Spree,  in  the  midst  of  a  vast,  sandy  plain,  which,  on  the  north,  stretches  up 
to  the  Baltic,  and  is  swept  by  winds  that  envelop  it  for  a  large  part  of  the 
year  in  clouds  and  fogs.  It  is  in  north  latitude  51  deg.,  and  has  a  cold,  damp 
climate,  which,  with  its  uninteresting  situation,  makes  its  growth  almost  a 
miracle.  Yet  in  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  it  has  become  a  city  of  600,000, 
from  perhaps  not  more  than  50,000  at  that  date,  and  chiefly  through  the  vig- 
orous policy  of  Frederick  the  Great,  in  making  it  the  center  of  military  and 
intellectual  life. 

Trade  and  commerce  have  obeyed  the  attraction  of  these  higher  powers,  and 
Berlin  is  now  a  vast  capital,  second  only  to  Paris  in  importance  and  in  mag- 
nificence upon  the  European  Continent.  Its  streets  are  wide  and  well  built. 
The  French  style  of  large  buildings,  with  separate  floors  for  private  families, 
prevails.  "Unter  den  Linden,"  its  famous  promenade,  answers,  though 
poorly,  to  the  Champs  Ely  sees  of  Paris.  A  wide  and  shaded  walk  for  pedes- 
trians, with  a  side-road  for  horsemen,  runs  through  the  middle  of  the  street, 
which  is  lined  on  both  sides  with  the  principal  hotels,  cafes  and  shops.  This, 
street,  which  is  about  a  mile  long,  is  occupied  at  the  southern  end  for  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  by  the  Palaces  of  the  King  and  the  Crown  Prince,  the  old  Schloss 
built  by  Frederick  the  Great,  the  Arsenal,  the  Dom,  or  principal  church,  and 
other  public  buildings.  In  the  middle  of  it  stands  the  magnificent  equestrian 
statue  of  Frederick  the  Great,  around  the  pedestal  of  which  are  placed  in  life- 
size,  and  in  strict  historical  portraits,  the  statues  of  his  chief  generals,  and 
of  the  statesmen  and  philosophers  that  adorned  his  reign.  Along  the  sides  of 
the  street  are  fine  statues  in  marble  or  bronze  of  the  military  heroes  and 
statesmen  of  Prussia. 

The  absence  of  any  good  building-stone  in  the  neighborhood  has  made  Ber- 
lin a  city  of  brick,  covered  almost  in  all  cases  with  ornamented  and  painted 


PRUSSIA  IN  1870.  19 

stucco.  This  gives  a  faded  and  unsubstantial  character  to  the  architecture 
generally.  The  dampness  of  the  climate,  with  the  dust,  rusts  the  exterior 
of  the  buildings,  and  there  is  nothing  bright  and  fresh,  as  in  Paris,  about 
even  the  newest  part  of  Berlin.  The  Thier-garden  (garden  of  animals),  just 
outside  the  Brandenburg  gate,  is  the  "Bois  de  Boulogne"  of  Berlin.  It  is 
very  extensive  and  covered  with  fine  trees,  through  which  rustic  roads  and 
paths  are  cut,  and  among  which  a  few  fine  statues  are  sprinkled.  On  one 
side  of  this  the  favorite  residences  of  the  richer  class  are  found,  and  new  and 
showy  streets  ran  from  it,  full  of  large  and  costly  private  houses.  The 
United  States  Minister  occupies  one  of  them,  in  Regenten  Strasse,  where  he 
exercises  an  elegant  hospitality  to  his  countrymen  and  to  the  savans  of  Berlin, 
among  whom  he  finds  himself  so  much  at  home.  The  country  is  fortunate  in 
being  represented  at  Berlin  at  this  critical  and  pregnant  moment  by  a  man 
known  so  well  beforehand  to  the  literati  and  statesmen  of  Prussia.  Mr.  Ban- 
croft has  received  a  most  distinguished  welcome  at  the  Court  and  among  the 
savans.  Bismarck,  it  is  said,  has  shown  him  very  unusual  respect,  and  the 
King,  receiving  him  at  his  own  table,  has  expressed  his  satisfaction  at  being 
able,  for  the  first  time,  to  talk  with  an  American  Minister  in  his  own  German 
tongue.  , 

The  flatness  of  Berlin  is  so  perfect  that  I  have  hunted  in  vain  for  any 
natural  elevation  in  or  around  it  from  which  the  city  could  be  looked  down 
upon.  The  evenness  is  very  unfavorable  to  any  street  effects,  and  indeed  to 
any  easy  acquaintance  with  the  topography.  Excepting  the  main  avenue, 
there  is  hardly  a  commanding  street  in  Berlin. 

To-day,  October  24,  the  Prussian  Parliament — which  with  so  little  criti- 
cism has  sustained  the  late  vigorous  and  confessedly  unlawful  measure  of  the 
government — was  dissolved  by  the  King  in  person.  About  2^-  o'clock  the 
main  body  of  the  hall  began  to  fill  with  the  nobles,  generals,  state  function- 
aries and  deputies  of  the  kingdom.  Sitting  among  a  favored  few  in  the  tri- 
bune, or  gallery,  to  which  tickets  from  our  Minister  had  admitted  us,  we 
looked  down  upon  the  gathering  of  this  gorgeous  assembly.  Entering  infor- 
mally as  they  arrived,  one  or  two  at  a  time,  we  had  an  opportunity  to  watch 
somewhat  deliberately  their  individual  appeareance.  Half,  at  least,  were 
either  soldiers  or  in  military  uniforms,  of  all  kinds  and  degrees  of  splendor — 
red,  white,  green — but  always  profusely  covered  with  gold  lace,  and  com- 
monly hung  about  with  orders  and  stars,  sashes  and  ribbons.  Another  por- 
tion were  in  the  usual  court-dress,  which  is  a  kind  of  Quaker  coat  that  has 
broken  out  into  colors  and  gold  lace.  A  few  ecclesiastics  or  professors,  in 
solemn  gown  and  cape,  with  an  order  or  two  on  their  breasts  shining  all  the 
more  brilliantly  from  its  black  background,  moved  in  the  motley  throng. 

Perhaps  fifty  gentlemen  in  plain  clothes  were  mixed  in  the  assembly. 
There  were  no  seats  for  this  company,  notwithstanding  the  venerable  and  in- 
firm appearance  of  a  large  number  of  them.  Indeed,  the  advanced  age  of 
most  officials  and  notabilities  in  Prussia  is  one  of  the  characteristic  features 


20  PRUSSIA  IN  1870. 

of  a  civilization  where  routine  and  slowness  of  advancement  are  painfully  in 
the  way  of  merit  and  vigor.  A  few  chairs  on  one  side  of  the  simple  throne 
(a  classic  chair  upon  a  slightly  raised  platform)  were  reserved  for  the  privy 
council  and  ministers  of  state,  and  in  these,  at  3  o'clock,  twenty  dignitaries 
took  their  places,  with  Bismarck  at  the  left  nearest  the  throne. 

Suddenly  a  herald  announced  the  King  in  a  loud  voice,  and  William  I. 
came  unattended,  and  cap  in  hand,  and  at  once  ascended  the  platform.  He 
was  in  full  uniform  of  a  dark  green,  and  in  boots  and  spurs,  and  after  bowing 
to  the  assembly,  put  on  his  cavalry  cap  with  its  fountain  plume.  One  short, 
simultaneous  and  percussive  "Owa"  welcomed  him.  Bismarck  advanced, 
and,  with  a  very  low  salute,  put  the  open  portfolio  containing  the  Royal 
speech  into  the  King's  hands.  He  read  it  in  a  simple  and  rather  awkward 
manner,  without  pretension  and  without  effect.  One  suppressed  murmur  of 
applause  greeted  the  close  of  the  paragraph  referring  to  the  harmony  of  the 
session.  At  the  close  (the  reading  could  not  have  taken  three  minutes)  Bis- 
marck took  the  address  from  the  King's  hands,  and  turning  toward  the  assem- 
bly, pronounced  the  Parliament,  in  the  name  of  the  King,  dissolved.  The 
King  bowed  and  immediately  descended  from  the  throne  (he  had  not  once 
sat  down),  and  left  the  hall  amid  a  few  hearty  huzzas. 

Bismarck  was  dressed  in  the  same  white  uniform  I  had  seen  him  in  at  the 
Emperor's  ball  at  Paris.  He  wore  jack-boots  and  spurs.  His  fine,  great 
head  upon  his  tall,  full  figure,  gave  him  a  marked  superiority  over  the  whole 
assembly.  Power,  prudence,  self-possession,  capacity,  success,  are  stamped 
upon  his  features  and  bearing.  If  he  is  worn  with  care,  he  does  not  show  it ; 
perhaps  he  carries  it  in  those  great  sacks  that  hang  under  his  eyes  !  He 
seems  about  fifty-four,  and  thoroughly  well-preserved.  His  habits  are  care- 
ful. He  rides  on  horseback,  and  bathes  in  summer  in  the  open  river,  a  few 
miles  from  the  town.  He  seems  to  possess  much  of  the  attainments  of  John 
Quincy  Adams,  with  a  tact  in  statesmanship  which  never  marked  that  pow- 
erful politician.  If  he  had  fallen  from  the  skies  he  could  not  have  come  more 
opportunely,  or  with  qualifications  more  out  of  the  usual  line  of  German 
statesmanship. 

Knowing  all  that  German  statesmen  ever  know,  he  has  a  thoroughly  un- 
German  dash  and  practical  quality  in  him  which  marks  him  out  from  his  pre- 
decessors, and  leaves  him  wholly  alone  in  his  kind.  With  unsurpassed  cour- 
age and  competency,  he  possesses  distinguished  prudence  and  self-control. 
He  does  not  undertake  the  impossible,  nor  invent  a  policy.  He  merely  shapes 
and  articulates  a  public  sentiment  which  for  a  hundred  years  has  waited  for 
its  crystallizing  moment.  He  is  not  a  moral  genius,  nor  are  disinterestedness 
and  pure  philanthropy  his  inspirers.  But  he  is  a  patriot,  and  sees  Prussia's 
opportunity  to  lead  Germany  to  her  destiny,  and  probably  no  man  could  pos- 
sess qualities  or  antecedents  better  fitted  to  the  work , 

An  aristocrat,  he  puts  himself  at  the  head  of  the  party  movement,  and  ad- 
vocates all  possible  reforms  in  the  interests  of  a  larger  liberty  and  a  freer  life. 


PRUSSIA  IN  1870.  21 

He  swallows  and  digests  his  antecedents,  and  evidently  despises  all  criticism 
which  merely  convicts  him  of  disagreement  with  himself — where  the  disa- 
greement is  necessary  and  born  of  new  circumstances  and  new  opportunities. 
He  is  clearly  a  whole  head  and  shoulders  above  not  only  his  cotemporaries  in 
Prussia,  but  European  statesmen  in  general ;  and  the  more  I  see  of  the  slack, 
tape- tied,  broken- spirited  character  of  German  politicians — dreamy,  me- 
chanical, wordy,  theoretical  and  inefficient — the  more  I  admire  the  prompt, 
incisive,  practical  and  bold  qualities  of  this  redeemer  of  Germany.  But  I  am 
getting  on  too  fast.  After  the  King  left,  Bismarck  passed  into  the  assembly 
and  greeted  personally  a  large  number  of  the  members. 

General  Moltke,  who  planned  the  late  triumphant  campaign  with  such  pro- 
phetic wisdom,  and  executed  it  so  precisely,  was  very  conspicuous,  and  the 
center  of  very  special  attention.  Not  unlike  General  Dix  in  appearance,  al- 
though much  older,  and  quite  infirm,  Moltke,  dressed  in  a  white  uniform  and 
covered  with  orders,  had  a  most  modest  and  quiet  carriage,  and  looked  very 
little  like  a  hero  covered  with  fresh  laurels.  I  looked  in  vain  for  Prince  Carl, 
the  cavalry  leader  of  the  war,  nephew  of  the  King  and  a  great  favorite  of  the 
people.  The  Prince  of  Prussia,  with  his  English  whiskers  and  great  mus- 
tache, was  very  distinguishable.  He  occupies  a  separate  palace  next  the 
King's,  and  seems  a  fair  enough  heir  to  the  throne.  His  wife  (Victoria, 
eldest  daughter  of  the  English  Queen)  is  a  woman  of  special  culture  and  of 
a  practical  turn  of  mind,  though  capable  of  literary  conversation  and  pos- 
sessing marked  skill  with  the  pencil.  She  has  six  children  already.  The 
King  is  seventy  years  old — a  plain,  robust,  soldierly  man,  with  a  great  native 
passion  for  military  matters — of  unquestioned  personal  courage,  and  of  a  fair 
average  understanding.  He  has  a  bluff  face,  and  seems  to  love  a  simple  life. 
He  is  an  honest  man,  but  without  any  special  qualifications  for  the  exigencies 
of  governing. 

The  King  is  doubtless  led  by  Bismarck,  who  has  the  tact  and  judgment  to 
treat  the  monarch  with  profound  deference,  while  the  King  has  the  sense  to 
appreciate  his  Minister's  superior  knowledge  and  address,  and  to  follow  his 
counsels. 

I  attended  two  sessions  of  the  Parliament  which  had  just  risen,  in  the 
temporary  chamber  where  it  sits.  The  Parliament  is  composed,  like  our  own 
Congress,  of  two  Chambers.  The  House  of  Deputies  is  composed  of  Rep- 
resentatives, one  for  each  one  hundred  thousand  of  the  people.  To  favor  the 
smaller  provinces  another  representative  is  allowed  them  where  the  fraction 
passes  fifty  thousand ;  an  advantage  which  Prussia,  strong  in  her  majority, 
can  readily  afford.  The  Deputies  quite  fairly  represent  all  classes ;  there  are 
nobles,  commoners  and  mechanics  in  the  House.  Perfect  freedom  of  debate  is 
allowed. 

There  is  enough  to  keep  one  busy  for  a  long  time  among  the  sights  of  Ber- 
lin, and  we  have  passed  rapidly  through  them.  The  Royal  Library,  one  of 
the  four  largest  in  the  world,  is  beautifully  arranged,  and  contains  many 


22  PRUSSIA  IN  1870. 

most  valuable  and  interesting  MSS.  and  a  rich  assortment  of  illuminated 
missals.  It  is  particularly  rich  in  everything  appertaining  to  the  history  of 
the  Reformation,  and  is  redolent  with  the  memories  of  the  Reformers  them- 
selves— copious  specimens  of  whose  letters  and  MSS.  are  found  here. 

We  made  a  visit  to  Potsdam,  which  is  eighteen  miles  from  Berlin  and  cor- 
responds to  it,  as  Versailles  does  to  Paris,  only  it  far  exceeds  it  in  interest. 
The  modern  palaces  are  very  charming,  specially  the  summer  palace  of  the 
King,  and  his  favorite  resort  when  he  desires  retirement.  No  palace  could 
possess  a  more  home-like  and  attractive  character.  The  palace  looked  in  all 
parts  made  for  use,  and  to  be  really  in  use.  No  part  of  it  was  so  modest  and 
homely  as  the  King's  own  bed-room,  quite  high  up  in  the  palace  and  com- 
manding a  lovely  view  of  the  river  and  the  well-planted  grounds  sloping 
toward  it.  The  King's  bed  was  single,  without  posts,  and  made,  like  the  other 
furniture,  of  a  native  wood.    No  well-to-do  farmer  could  sleep  on  a  plainer  couch. 

Prussia  is  a  military  country  in  even  a  more  marked  sense  than  France.  It 
owes  its  existence,  its  growth,  its  safety,  its  self-respect  to  arms.  Its  people 
are  educated  by  the  musket;  they  are  all  under  military  drill.  The  uniform 
is  almost  the  national  costume.  Berlin  is  a  city  of  barracks  and  arsenals  and 
guard-houses,  and  soldiers  are  the  characteristic  feature  of  its  street  popula- 
tion. A  clean,  fresh,  straight,  comely -looking  set  of  fellows  they  are,  with 
self-respect  and  order  in  every  button  and  every  line  of  their  features  and 
forms.  The  education  to  cleanliness,  decent  manners,  good  carriage  and  re- 
spectful behavior  which  this  great  camp,  called  Prussia,  secures,  is  something 
most  instructive  to  see. 

The  soldiers  do  not  look  brutal,  coarse  or  sensual.  There  is  some  secret 
about  their  training  which  neither  the  French  nor  the  English  have  caught. 
It  must  be  a  good  deal  in  the  German  blood — which  is  not  hot,  but  as  if  made 
of  beer,  not  beef — a  little  cool  and  sluggish.  The  German  military  spirit  is 
informed  and  corrected  by  the  universal  education  of  the  people.  German 
soldiers  and  sailors  are  different  from  American  or  English  or  French.  They 
are  neither  drunkards,  nor  quarrelsome,  nor  reckless.  The  union  of  a  careful 
elementary  education  with  a  universal  participation  in  the  soldier's  calling, 
takes  away  the  exceptional  character  and  licensed  rudeness  which  belong  to 
soldiers  when  they  are  only  a  special  class  of  the  population.  But,  doubtless, 
this  soldier-life,  so  favorable  to  order  and  decorum,  and  even  so  chastening 
to  youthful  passions,  has  another  and  a  most  painful  side  to  it.  It  drills  the 
Prussian  youth  to  mechanical  habits,  represses  personal  enterprise,  delays  the 
self-relying  qualities  in  their  character,  habituates  them  to  being  taken  care  of, 
encourages  them  to  lives  of  busy  idleness,  and  sacrifices  each  to  all,  the  people 
to  the  country.  Accordingly,  there  is  a  general  spirit  of  listlessness,  occu- 
pation with  immediate  pleasures,  or  magnifying  of  eating  and  drinking  as 
very  serious  occupations,  a  contentment  with  humble  means,  a  patient  waiting 
for  slow  advancement,  which  it  is  discouraging  to  see  in  so  well-educated,  so 
respectable  and  so  orderly  a  people. 


PRUSSIA  IN  1870.  23 

Quick  as  Prussia  is  in  arms — because  her  military  life  is  all  reduced  to  ma- 
chinery, and  the  machinery  is  in  the  finest  order  and  can  be  set  in  motion  in 
an  hour-  -there  is  no  other  quickness  about  her.  She  is  a  slow  country. 
Every  practical  interest  lags.  Her  workmen  are  slow,  and  do  not  effect  in  a 
day  three- fourths  of  the  work  of  an  English  or  American  workman.  It  drives 
one  nearly  crazy  to  see  how  many  arms  there  are  on  the  levers  by  which  the 
smallest  object  is  reached.  In  the  restaurants  one  man  receives  the  order, 
another  carries  it,  a  third  transfers  it,  a  fourth  executes  it,  a  fifth  receives  the 
thing  executed,  and  a  sixth  makes  it  over  to  the  original  orderer.  It  takes 
twenty  minutes  to  get  a  chop  which  would  be  before  you  in  five  minutes  in 
an  American  eating-house.  There  is  a  system  of  military  subordination  run- 
ning through  the  whole  social  and  economical  life,  and  this  narrows  and  limits 
everybody's  sphere,  and  contracts  and  paralyzes  energy  and  hope. 

The  people  are  driven  to  pleasures  and  trifles,  as  a  substitute  for  engaging 
occupations.  They  pass  an  immense  amount  of  their  time  in  beer- shops  and 
gardens,  listening  to  dance-music.  They  are  not  rude  and  drunken — far  from 
it — but  they  are  unaccustomed  to  the  concerns  and  unfamiliar  with  the  earnest 
purposes  that  characterize  our  life.  And  with  all  the  freedom  of  which  they 
boast,  they  are  practically  drilled  out  of  the  best  part  of  freedom  by  a  paren- 
tal government  that  takes  care  of  them  like  so  many  ungrown  boys  and  girls. 

The  very  students  in  the  University  are  numbered  like  state's  prisoners, 
and  carry  round  a  card  in  their  pockets  which  they  must  show  on  demand. 
The  police,  or  some  government  functionary,  are  forever  meddling  with  the 
freedom  of  the  people,  who  are  so  used  to  being  watched  and  ordered  and  in- 
structed that  they  do  not  even  know  that  they  are  imprisoned  in  government 
rules  and  bureaucratic  regulations.  If  you  would  go  to  the  opera,  you  must 
make  a  written  application  for  a  ticket  the  day  before,  and  you  will  receive 
(or  perhaps  not)  a  written  notice  whether  you  may  be  permitted  to  purchase 
a  place !  A  servant  girl  can  not  leave  her  place  without  notifying  the  police, 
nor  go  to  one  without  her  paper  of  confirmation  and  two  or  three  other  cer- 
tificates. 

Every  Prussian  must  carry  a  passport  in  moving  from  town  to  town,  which 
any  sentinel  may  challenge  him  to  produce.  The  fact  is,  the  people  are  tied 
with  a  very  short  string  to  every  finger  and  toe,  and  can  not  move  out  of  their 
places,  and  the  misfortune  is  that  they  do  not  seem  to  know  it.  They  talk 
very  loudly  and  proudly  of  English  and  American  license  and  disorder,  and 
civic  immoralities  and  drunkenness  and  crime,  and  admire  very  much  their 
freedom  from  these  misfortunes ;  but  they  forget  that  alongside  these  tares  the 
strongest  wheat  is  growing,  and  that  their  political  soil  is  much  like  their 
sandy  territory,  unfavorable  to  any  large  growths  of  either  weeds  or  wheat. 

In  regard  to  the  political  situation  in  Prussia,  it  may  be  said  that  the  only 
two  parties  are  those  of  Bismarck,  aiming  at  the  unity  of  all  Germany  mainly 
by  military  force,  and  the  party  which  wishes  to  bring  about  the  same  result 
by  volnntary  concession  on  the  part  of  the  outlying  southern  states,     There 


24  PRUSSIA  IN   1870. 

is  no  doubt  that  the  force  party  is  carrying  the  day  Already  force  has, 
brought  three-quarters  of  all  Germany  into  union,  and  the  other  quarter  is 
very  sure  to  fall  in. 

The  overwhelming  predominancy  of  Prussia  will  be  abated  by  the  union, 
and  thus  the  general  liberties  of  the  German  race  greatly  advanced.  Many 
conservatives  perceive  this  side  of  the  consolidation,  and  are  opposed  to  it  as 
involving  a  peril  for  Prussian  influence.  "  Union  first  and  liberty  afterward  " 
has  been  here,  as  with  us,  the  cry  of  patriots.  But  many  who  might  like  the 
union,  do  not  like  the  liberty,  and  they  prefer  to  keep  things  as  they  now 
are,  with  Prussian  influence  in  Germany  at  the  very  highest  point.  But  this 
can  not  be  done.  Bismarck  has  the  good  sense  to  see  that  Prussia  must  finally 
yield  to  German  nationality.  He  is,  therefore,  in  opposition  to  his  old  con- 
servative associates,  accepting  the  destiny  of  Prussia,  and  aiding  it  in  a  certain 
way  to  sacrifice  itself  to  a  larger  interest.     This  is  noble. 

Bismarck  has  for  his  invaluable  assistants  in  shaping  Prussia  and  Germany, 
General  Moltke,  the  first  soldier  in  Europe,  and  General  Wrode,  an  admirable 
tactician  and  organizer.  Having  himself  been  embassador  at  every  impor- 
tant court  in  Europe — Paris,  London,  St.  Petersburg,  Vienna — he  thoroughly 
knows  diplomatic  characters  and  political  tendencies,  and  can  make  his  com- 
binations with  unfailing  skill.  He  was  a  student  of  Louis  Napoleon  until 
he  excelled  his  master  in  astuteness,  courage,  and  success.  He  is  a  sort  of 
combination  of  Mr.  Seward  and  General  Grant ;  with  the  dialectic  and  diplo- 
matic acuteness  and  use  of  skillful  means  and  patient  methods,  without  much 
care  for  what  people  say,  which  has  distinguished  the  Secretary  of  State,  and 
with  the  energy  and  pertinacity  of  character,  the  prudence  and  directness  which 
have  illustrated  the  career  of  the  Lieutenant-General.  Bismarck  was  once  a 
Prussian  captain,  but  does  not  claim  a  soldier's  reputation.  The  King  had  made 
him  a  general,  partly  because  he  likes  to  see  his  Minister  in  military  uniform 
and  partly  as  a  compliment. 

One  of  the  most  striking  illustrations  of  the  repressive  tendencies  of  Prus- 
sian policy  is  seen  in  the  forbiddance  to  retail  newspapers  or  pamphlets  and 
books  in  the  streets  of  Berlin.  To  have  a  newspaper,  you  must  subscribe  for 
it  for  the  year.  As  a  consequence,  the  newspapers  are  neither  numerous,  en- 
terprising, nor  universally  read.  There  seems  a  want  of  acquaintance  with 
current  events — a  difficulty  about  obtaining  local  information,  which  is  un- 
favorable to  liberty  and  practical  intelligence. 

There  is  a  certain  awkwardness  in  small  affairs,  a  want  of  tact,  or  of  a 
sense  of  fitness — of  practical  ingenuity  and  address — here  in  Northern  Ger- 
many which  is  unaccountable.  The  public  buildings  here,  at  the  center  of 
physical  science,  are  wastefully  and  stupidly  arranged  as  to  entrance  and  exit, 
and  terribly  unventilated.  All  windows  and  doors  are  awkwardly  handled. 
There  is  no  grace  and  facility  in  mechanical  matters. 

In  respect  of  the  custom  of  living  in  stories,  or  appartments — some  poor 
people  in  the  cellar,  a  graf  on  the  first  floor,  a  hochrath  on  the  second,  a  shop- 


PRUSSIA  IN   1870.  25 

keeper  on  the  third,  and  a  shoe-maker  on  the  fourth — there  is  much  to  be  said 
on  both  sides.  It  abolishes  special  districts,  in  which  rich  or  poor  live.  It 
brings  the  two  ends  of  society  together ;  it  makes  the  children  of  the  various 
orders  and  classes  acquainted  with  each  other,  and  secures  a  certain  democratic 
sympathy.  It  is  favorable  to  external  morality  and  order.  On  the  other 
hand,  it  destroys  the  privacy  and  free  development  of  class-life,  which  we  see 
in  England  and  America.  It  makes  home  a  less  sacred  word,  and  depresses 
those  marked  qualities  which  grow  up  in  a  less  watched  and  more  castellated 
domesticity. 

In  regard  to  the  general  morals  of  Berlin  (a  representative  city),  it  is  un- 
questionably a  place  of  extraordinary  order  and  decency — a  place  where  trades- 
men and  mechanics  keep  their  word,  where  crime  is  unfrequent,  and  where 
drunkenness  or  furious  orgies,  such  as  we  have  in  England  and  America,  are 
rare.  At  one  season  of  the  year  they  go  into  the  country  and  drink  buck- 
beer  for  a  few  days  (a  very  potent  liquor),  and  indulge  in  a  kind  of  satur- 
nalia. There  is  an  immense  festivity  always  going  on  in  beer-gardens — 
where  the  people  flock,  especially  on  Sundays  and  festivals.  Wine  and  beer 
and  schnapps  have  an  immense  consumption ;  but,  either  because  the  temper- 
ament of  the  people  is  more  lymphatic,  or  because  they  have  learned  by  ex- 
perience to  regulate  their  appetites,  or  because  there  is  more  domestic  com- 
panionship in  their  pleasures,  there  does  not  seem  to  be  the  same  tendency  to 
perilous  excess. 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY 


THROUGH 


RUSSIA    AND    SIBERIA. 


THE      K  BEK LIN. 
CHAPTER    I. 

Cochrane  crosses  to  France — Curious  Adventures — St.  Petersburgh — Stripped  by  Rob- 
bers— Novgorod — Moscow — Khans  of  the  Golden  Horde — The  Knout — Religious  Su- 
perstitions— Vladimir — Cochrane  broomsticked  by  fanatical  Women — Central  Rus- 
sia— Fair  at  New  Novgorod. 

Russia,  as  a  whole,  is  the  most  gigantic  empire,  in  point  of  territorial  ex* 
tent,  ever  known  to  have  existed,  equaling  in  extent  the  whole  of  North 
America  ;  there  is,  consequently,  a  great  variety  of  climate,  and  of  produc 
tions  ;  and  this  vast  territory  is  all  under  the  dominion  of  one  man  ! 

Russia  was  originally  divided  into  a  great  number  of  primitive  and  original 
nations,  and  presents  more  diversity  of  language  and  races  than  any  other 
country.  The  principal  stocks  are,  1st.  The  Sclavonic,  in  which  are  com- 
prised the  Russians,  the  Poles,  and  the  Lithuanians,  etc. ;  2.  The  Finnish  ■ 

27 


28  COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY. 

3d.  The  Turkish  or  Tartar ;  4th.  The  German  or  Dutch ;  and  5th.  The 
Gothic,  or  the  Swedes,  a  number  of  whom  may  be  found  centered  among  the 
population  of  Finland.  The  whole  empire  is  estimated  to  contain  at  least 
eighty  millions,  of  which  sixty-four  millions  are  in  Europe,  two-thirds  of 
whom  are  great  Russians,  or  Muscovites.  These  may  be  found  chiefly  in 
Central  Russia,  around  Moscow,  where  the  country  is  densely  peopled. 

The  ancients  had  very  little  knowledge  of  what  now  constitutes  Russia. 
The  nucleus  of  the  empire  was  formed  about  862,  by  Rurik.  About  the  year 
1000,  Vladimir  introduced  Christianity ;  but  from  this  period,  for  several 
centuries,  the  country  was  invaded  by  hordes  of  Tartars,  and  all  manner  of 
barbarities  committed  upon  its  people.  At  length,  after  most  bloody  and 
sanguinary  wars,  the  Tartars  were  expelled.  In  the  17th  century,  White 
and  Little  Russia  were  conquered  from  the  Poles,  and  the  Cossacks  of  the 
Ukraine,  or  Little  Russias,  acknowledged  the  supremacy  of  the  Czar; 
various  internal  improvements  were  effected,  and  the  power  of  Russia  began 
to  be  felt  and  feared  by  all  her  neighbors.  At  length,  in  1696,  Peter  the  Great 
ascended  the  throne,  and  the  destinies  of  Russia  and  of  the  northern  world 
were  immediately  changed.  This  prince,  who  has  been  properly  styled  the 
"Father  of  his  Country,"  gave  to  the  arms  of  Russia  a  decided  preponder- 
ance in  the  north  of  Europe  ;  he  also  gave  her  a  fleet,  conquered  large  prov- 
inces on  the  Baltic,  laid  the  foundations  of  the  noble  city  which  bears  his 
name,  and  introduced  among  his  people  the  arts,  the  literature,  the  customs, 
and,  to  some  extent  also,  the  laws  and  institutions  of  the  more  civilized 
European  nations.  The  difficulties  he  had  to  encounter  in  his  projects  for 
civilizing  his  dominions  were  of  the  most  formidable  description,  and  could 
not  have  been  overcome  by  one  of  a  less  stern,  decided  character. 

Under  Catharine  II.  (during  the  era  of  the  American  Revolution),  a 
princess  of  extraordinary  talent,  Russia  acquired  a  vast  accession  of  power 
by  her  acquisitions  in  Poland  and  the  Black  Sea. 

The  disastrous  invasion  by  Napoleon  vastly  added  to  the  power  and 
influence  of  Russia,  which,  a  century  since,  had  not  more  than  a  quarter  of 
its  present  population.  Eventually,  Russia  will  have  possession  of  Turkey. 
She  needs  an  outlet  upon  the  Mediterranean  to  extend  her  commerce,  and  to 
raise  her  to  one  of  the  first  naval  powers  of  the  world. 

The  war  in  the  Crimea,  in  the  last  years  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas'  reign, 
ending  in  the  memorable  siege  of  Sebastopol,  grew  out  of  the  ambition  of 
Russia  for  territorial  extension. 

The  orthodox  Greek  church  is  the  dominant  religion  of  the  empire.  All 
power  emanates  from  the  Czar.  The  title  Autocrat,  which  he  assumes, 
indicates  the  nature  of  his  authority,  which  he  is  presumed  to  derive  only 
from  God. 

The  Bible  was  first  introduced  into  Russia  during  the  reign  of  Alexander 
the  First,  by  the  English  Bible  Society.  The  Catholic  Jesuits  opposed  its 
introduction,  speaking,  writing,  and  preaching  against  it;  and,  as  a  conse- 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY.  29 

quence,  Alexander  expelled  the  Jesuits.  In  1825,  the  emperor  Nicholas, 
influenced  by  his  black  clergy,  expelled  the  Bible.  On  the  ascension  of 
Alexander  the  Second,  the  present  emperor,  to  the  throne,  he  restored  it ;  and 
now  it  is  found  in  every  second  house  in  Great  Russia,  and  is  highly  prized 
by  the  people.  In  1861  Alexander  emancipated  his  serfs,  and,  as  a  conse- 
quence, a  new  life  is  being  infused  into  his  subjects.  With  the  Bible  and 
Freedom,  Russia  must,  in  the  future,  advance  to  greatness  and  power  with 
accelerated  rapidity. 


Among  the  most  indefatigable  of  all  modern  travelers,  whose  adven 
tures  have  been  made  known  to  the  world,  appears  the  name  of  John 
Dundas  Cochrane.  At  the  early  age  of  ten  years,  he  entered  the  cockpit  of 
a  British  man-of-war,  and  eventually  attained  the  position  of  captain  in  the 
royal  navy  ;  which  rank  he  held,  at  the  time  he  commenced  his  tour  across 
the  whole  width  of  Europe,  through  Siberia,  to  the  eastern  verge  of  zne 
Asiatic  continent.  His  journey  was  performed  much  of  the  way  on  foot 
and  occupied  something  over  three  years,  during  which  he  traversed  a  dis- 
tance of  thirty  thousand  miles. 

That  a  captain  of  the  British  navy  should  thus  attempt  a  journey  of  man) 
thousand  miles,  alone,  on  foot,  and  over  a  country  considered  as  next  to  im- 
passable, may  be  considered  as  among  the  most  wonderful  undertakings  of 
modern  times.  But  he  was  one  of  those  adventurous  spirits  to  whom  dan- 
gers and  difficulties  form  the  chief  attractions  to  difficult  achievements  ;  and 
that  those  he  so  regarded  is  evident  from  the  confession  that  he  "was  never 
so  happi  as  while  traversing  the  wilds  of  Siberian  Tartary." 

In  January,  1 820,  Captain  Cochrane  addressed  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  c\ 
vne  Lord  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  offering  to  undertake  a  journey 
into  the  interior  of  Africa,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  course  of  the 
river  Niger.  The  plan  he  proposed  to  follow  was  nearly  that  adopted  by 
Mungo  Park  in  his  first  journey :  intending  to  proceed  alone,  and  requiring 
only  to  be  furnished  with  the  countenance  of  some  constitutional  govern- 
ment. With  this  protection,  he  would  have  accompanied  the  caravans,  nor 
hesitated,  as  he  averred,  to  sell  himself  "  for  a  slave,  if  that  miserable  alter- 
native were  necessary  to  accomplish  the  object  in  view."  He  objected  to  the 
plan  of  going  in  a  party,  from  the  difficulty  of  finding  men,  otherwise  suit- 
able, whose  constitutions  admitted  of  an  equal  degree  of  suffering  and  fatigue. 
In  attempting  it  alone,  he  would  rely  upon  his  own  individual  exertions  and 
knowledge  of  man,  unfettered  by  the  frailties  and  misconduct  of  others. 

The  Admiralty  not  giving  a  favorable  answer  to  his  proposition,  he  dete/ 
mined  to  undertake  a  journey,  varying  only  the  object  and  the  scene  to  tha 
of  the  unfortunate  Ledyard,  viz  :  to  travel  round  the  globe  as  nearly  as  it 
can  be  done  by  land,  crossing  Northern  Asia  to  America  at  Beh ring's 
Straits.  He  also  determined  to  perform  the  journey  on  foot,  for  the  best 
of  all  possible  reasons,  that  his  finances  allowed  of  no  other. 

Having,  therefore,  procured  the  necessary  documents,  and  filled  his  knap- 
sack with  such  articles  as  he  judged  were  required  to  enable  him  to  wander 
through  the  wilds,  deserts  and  forests  of  three  quarters  of  the  globe,  he  left 
London  in  February,  in  the  packet,  and  landed  at  Dieppe,  and  from  thence 


30  THROUGH   RUSSIA   AND    SIBERIA. 

proceeded  to  Paris,  procured  his  passports,  and  then  set  out  on  his  journey 
toward  the  German  frontier.  After  several  days'  walking,  he  entered  the 
winding  valley  of  the  Meuse,  a  branch  of  the  famous  *'blue  Moselle." 
Each  side  of  the  valley  was  a  continuous  vineyard  and  orchard,  and  the 
inhabitants  a  healthy,  robust,  and  cheerful  body  of  laborers.  In  this  vicinity 
he  fell  in  with  one  of  Napoleon's  old  soldiers,  who,  having  been  taken 
prisoner  during  the  Russian  campaign,  was  transported  far  into  the  wilds  of 
Siberia.  He  amused  our  traveler  with  some  marvelous  stories  of  his  adven- 
tures and  sufferings  in  that  distant  part  of  the  world.  As  they  were  walk- 
ing and  chatting  cheerfully  along  together,  he  communicated  a  secret  for  the 
cure  of  blistered  feet,  which  the  Captain  found,  on  subsequent  trial,  an  un- 
failing remedy.  It  is  simply  to  rub  the  feet,  on  going  to  bed,  with  spirits 
mixed  with  tallow  dropped  from  a  lighted  candle  into  the  palm  of  the  hand. 
On  the  following  morning  no  blisters  will  exist.  The  spirit  seems  to  possess 
the  healing  power,  the  tallow  serving  only  to  keep  the  skin  soft  and  pliant. 
The  soles  of  the  feet,  the  ankles  and  the  instep  should  be  rubbed  well ;  and 
even  when  no  blisters  exist,  the  application  is  a  useful  preventive  :  salt 
and  water  is  a  good  substitute. 

As  he  neared  Frankfort  on  the  Rhine,  Cochrane  stopped  at  an  inn  in  a 
little  paltry  village.  The  landlord,  seeing  he  was  but  a  foot  traveler, 
actually  turned  him  out.  Pocketing  the  affront,  he  bought  a  small  loaf 
of  black  bread,  and  pushed  on,  fatigued,  cold,  and  mortified,  till  he  reached 
a  barn,  which  he  entered,  and  reposed  with  "perfect  content,"  for  the 
night,  in  the  hay-loft. 

Beyond  Frankfort  he  passed  through  a  low,  dreary  country.  March  had 
now  come,  and  brought  with  it  its  usual  dreary,  blustering  winds  and  driving 
snows.  The  roads  were  in  a  wretched  state,  and  his  feet  equally  so.  He, 
therefore,  took  temporary  refuge  in  a  small  inn,  from  whence  he  was  driven 
by  the  rudeness  of  a  sot,  and  then  entered  another ;  but  was  here  followed 
by  the  audacious  rascal,  when  the  fellow's  wife  opportunely  made  her  ap- 
pearance, took  his  part,  and,  by  her  very  dextrous  use  of  a  good  cudgel, 
rid  Cochrane  of  his  impertinence. 

A  day  or  two  after,  he  arrived  at  the  beautiful  little  city  of  Fuld,  late 
in  the  evening,  very  much  fatigued.  He  had  been  induced  to  make  a 
longer  day's  journey  by  some  companions  he  had  picked  up  on  the  road, 
one  of  whom  was  a  wandering  journeyman  tailor,  the  second  a  mender  of 
old  kettles,  and  the  third  an  Italian  cage  maker.  They  shared  everything  in 
common,  which  enabled  Cochrane  to  reduce  his  expenses  one-half;  a  measure 
the  emptiness  of  his  purse  seemed  to  render  not  wholly  unnecessary.  In  a 
miserable  barn  they  found  shelter  for  the  night ;  and  the  next  morning 
pushed  on,  wading  over  the  hills  knee  deep  in  snow.  At  Naumburg  he  was 
unable  to  gain  admittance  into  any  house  except  that  of  a  poor  shoemaker, 
which  he  did  at  the  price  of  a  glass  of  "schnaps;"  for  a  second  glass  he 
mended  his  shoes  and  gaiters,  and  gave  him  a  truss  of  straw  to  sleep  on. 

Traveling  over  a  low  country,  and  by  a  dirty  road,  he  reached  the  large, 
filthy,  and  scattered  town  of  Deuben,  the  first  in  Prussia  Proper.  His  recep- 
tion was  uncivil,  if  not  inhuman.     His  passport  was  demanded,  then  he  was 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY,  31 

forcibly  seized  and  subjected  to  the  sarcasm  and  official  tyranny  of  a  set  of 
whiskered  ruffians,  who,  after  moving  him  from  one  guard  to  another,  at 
length  thrust  him  into  a  large  public  room,  in  a  sort  of  inn,  filled  with  mili- 
tary rubbish.  He  requested  supper  of  the  landlord  ;  he  only  laughed  at 
him ;  to  his  demand  for  a  bed,  he  grinningly  pointed  to  the  floor,  and  refused 
him  even  a  portion  of  the  straw  which  had  been  brought  in  for  the  soldiers. 
Of  all  the  demons  that  have  ever  existed  or  been  imagined  in  the  human 
shape,  he  thought  the  landlord  of  the  inn,  in  ill-nature  and  personal  hideous- 
ness,  the  blackest.  "  His  face  half-covered  with  a  black  beard  and  bristly 
whiskers,  his  stature  below  common ;  his  head  sunk  below  his  shoulders,  to 
make  room  for  the  protuberance  of  his  back ;  his  eyes  buried  in  the  ragged 
locks  of  his  lank  grisly  hair ; — add  to  this  a  club-foot  and  a  voice  which,  on 
every  attempt  at  speech,  was  like  the  shrieking  of  a  screech-owl,  and  you 
have,"  says  our  traveler,  "  some  faint  idea  of  this  mockery  of  a  man.  For 
some  time  he  strutted  about  wrapped  up  in  furs,  which  ill  concealed  the 
ragged  testimonials  of  his  wretched  poverty,  and  taking  immense  quantities 
of  snuff.  The  oaf  at  length  deliberately  opened  a  large  box,  and  placing  in 
it  a  pillow  and  some  straw,  wrapped  a  blanket  around  him,  and  commited  his 
person  to  this  rude  but  novel  species  of  bed,  shutting  the  lid  half-way  down 
with  a  piece  of  wood  apparently  kept  for  that  purpose."  "  I  confess,"  says 
Cochrane  "my  indignation  was  so  strongly  excited,  thaj.  had  materials  been 
at  hand,  I  had  the  strongest  inclination  to  nail  the  monster  down  in  his  den." 
Cochrane' s  feelings  were  such  that  he  was  determined  at  all  hazards  to  run 
the  risk  of  an  escape,  and  at  midnight  he  got  out  of  the  window,  and  travel- 
ing over  a  sandy  road  reached  Wittemburg  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
The  second  evening  after  he  arrived  at  Potsdam,  where,  with  infinite  difficulty, 
he  procured  admittance  to  a  house,  content  to  purchase  black  bread  for  his 
supper  and  the  use  of  a  bench  for  a  bed. 

Potsdam  is  a  large,  fine,  but  desolate  town,  and  seems  to  be  one  huge  bar- 
rack, scarcely  a  living  being  is  seen  without  the  Prussian  uniform.  Yet  it  is 
an  interesting  spot,  for  it  contains  the  tomb  of  Frederick  the  Great.  So  great 
an  air  of  melancholy  pervaded  the  place  that  our  traveler  was  glad  to  leave 
it  behind. 

On  reaching  Berlin  he  called  upon  Mr.  Rose,  the  British  ambassador  at  the 
Prussian  capital,  who  offered  him  a  room  at  his  hotel ;  but  the  independent 
plan  which  he  had  adopted  led  him  to  decline  these  hospitalities. 

Berlin  is  one  of  the  most  uninteresting  capitals  on  the  continent.  It  stands 
in  the  midst  of  a  sandy  plain  ;  the  streets  are  generally  plain,  ill-paved,  and 
with  little  ornament.  The  town,  however,  contains  a  great  number  of  scien- 
tific and  literary  establishments,  and  its  university  ranks  among  the  first  in 
Europe.  Indeed  the  Prussians  now  excel  in  their  system  of  education,  which 
is  the  most  complete  ever  established.  The  instruction  of  all  classes  is  care- 
fully provided  for,  and  the  law  compels  all  parents  to  send  their  children  to 
school.  Every  parish  is  bound  to  have  a  common-school,  and  every  town  an 
academy.  Normal  schools  provide  teachers  for  every  grade,  and  in  some, 
pecuniary  assistance  is  afforded  to  poor  scholars  of  good  promise.  Govern- 
ment, with  parental  care,  supports  all  these  institutions,  and  oversees,  through 


32  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

officers  appointed  for  the  purpose,  the  details  of  their  discipline  :  and  aside 
from  this  she  munificently  provides  for  the  blind,  and  deaf  and  dumb,  and 
opens  to  the  use  of  even  the  humblest  individual  the  national  collections  of 
natural  history,  the  philosophical  and  astronomica1  apparatus,  and  the  public 
libraries. 

From  Berlin,  Cochrane  proceeded,  over  a  bleak  and  almost  deserted  country, 
to  Stettin,  after  forty  miles  of  heavy  and  dreary  walking.  He  in  vain  de- 
manded a  night's  lodging  at  three  different  houses,  though  he  had  previously 
ordered  and  eaten  as  many  suppers  for  that  express  inducement.  He  then 
retreated  to  the  wharf,  cold  and  snowy  as  it  was,  and  threw  himself  on  the 
ground  to  repose  for  the  night.  A  brother  tar  passing  roused  him  up,  and  by 
a  little  past  midnight,  through  dint  of  earnest  persuasion,  induced  the  land- 
lord of  the  Copenhagen  Inn  to  receive  him  on  condition  that  his  passport 
should  be  deposited  in  his  hands  as  security. 

A  day  or  two  after,  while  traveling  through  a  marshy  country,  Cochrane 
got  lost  in  an  attempt  to  cross  a  frozen  swamp,  and  wandered  some  fifteen 
miles  out  of  his  road.  Thus  much  for  quitting  the  high-road  to  make  a  short 
cut,  which  a  pedestrian  should  never  do  except  under  a  certainty  of  being 
right. 

"A  post-house,  called  Romini,"  says  he,  "with  a  good,  civil  landlord, 
better  wife,  and  seven  well-behaved  children,  made  me  welcome,  dried  my 
clothes,  and  gave  me  a  glass  of  schnaps  to  keep  me  warm ;  while  a  good 
supper  of  beef  and  potatoes  was  preparing  for  me.  Cold,  wet,  weary,  and 
half  famished,  I  had  entered  the  benevolent  post-house  ;  but  one  short  houi 
restored  me  to  life  and  good-humor,  and  ultimately  to  the  enjoyment  of  a 
clean  bed,  made  on  the  spot  for  my  accommodation  by  filling  a  tick  with  hay 
and  sewing  it  up  again.  Happy,  contented,  though  impoverished  family, 
would  to  heaven  that  benevolence  like  yours  had  more  numerous  followers 
among  mankind  !  I  had  arrived  in  a  most  miserable  plight,  the  heavy  and 
frequent  rains  having  dilapidated  my  apparel,  which,  even  in  good  weather, 
was  not  calculated  to  last  long.  My  cap  I  had  lost  in  the  icy  swamp,  and  in 
place  of  it  my  head  was  bound  up  in  a  piece  of  red  flannel.  My  trowsers 
were  literally  torn  in  tatters,  and  my  shoes  tied  to  my  feet  to  prevent  their 
falling  off.  All  I  had  retained  was  sound  health  and  a  contented  mind,  and 
I  wanted  nothing  more  ;  for  this  generous  family  had  during  the  night  put 
my  entire  wardrobe  to  rights ;  and  I  departed  the  following  morning  with 
sound  clothing  and  reflections  oi  heartfelt  gratitude  to  have  met  with  the 
beneficial  exercise  of  such  qualities  in  a  quarter  of  the  world  where  I  had  so 
little  reason  to  expect  them. 

"  Over  an  execrable  road,  sandy  heath,  and  in  cheerless  wintry  weather  1 
resumed  my  route,  and  reached  Zanone,  on  the  banks  of  the  little  river  Bos- 
lin.  Here  again  I  found  lodgings  in  a  cobbler's  stall.  An  old  bedstead  and 
straw  mattress  served  for  the  cobbler  and  his  grandson  in  one  corner ;  in  the 
second  was  a  fireplace  but  no  fire  ;  in  the  third  a  cupboard,  with  an  empty 
glass  and  two  or  three  broken  plates ;  and  in  the  fourth  a  board  for  his  jour* 
neymen  to  work  upon,  when  he  had  business  to  employ  them,  which  no^ 
served  for  my  bed-place.     In  this  place  I  passed  the  night,  charmed  with  the 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY,  33 

contentment  of  old  Crispin,  whose  whole  happiness  seemed  wrapped  up  in 
the  future  welfare  of  his  grandson.  I  was  provided  with  some  straw  and  a 
horse-rug,  which,  however  they  might  assimilate  me  to  the  inhabitants  of  the 
stable,  were  truly  acceptable ;  for  the  night  was  cold,-  and  the  windows,  which 
transmitted  the  light  only  through  oiled  paper,  could  not  prevent  the  sensible 
intrusion  of  cold  air." 

Next  morning,  in  spite  of  the  obstacle  of  a  sprained  ankle,  he  pushed  on 
toward  Schlaws,  where  he  was  arrested  and  taken  before  the  magistrates  to 
answer  the  offense  of  smoking  in  the  streets.  His  ignorance  of  the  laws  and 
very  palpable  poverty  alone  saved  him  from  a  fine.  At  Skolpe,  thirty-five 
miles  farther  on,  the  police  supplied  him  with  quarters  at  the  guard-house  : 
"a  circumstance  rendered  almost  necessary  to  me,"  says  Cochrane,  "from 
the  unaccountable,  but  manifest  ill-will  of  the  women  .toward  me.  The  ill- 
fated  Ledyard,  had  he  been  situated  as  I  have  often  been,  would  have  allowed 
exceptions  to  his  beautiful  encomium  on  the  fair  sex.  But  Ledyard's  fortune 
was  better  in  this  respect,  and  he  was  justified  by  his  own  experience  in 
espousing  the  cause  of  the  whole  sex." 

He  endured  much  while  traveling  in  this  region  from  the  bad  condition  of 
his  shoes,  which  the  variations  in  the  weather  made  alternately  like  sponge 
and  horn.  The  country  grew  more  picturesque  as  he  advanced,  but  bore  a 
desperately  bad  name  from  the  bands  of  robbers  that  infested  it ;  but  his 
poverty  prevented  him  from  entertaining  any  unnecessary  fears  of  them. 

At  Dantzic,  a  strongly  fortified  town  on  the  Baltic  in  Polish  Prussia,  he 
was  kindly  received  by  the  English  consul,  and  having  obtained  a  present  of 
a  pair  of  strong,  English  shoes,  he  departed,  passing  successively  through 
Dnishaw,  Marienberg,  Elbing,  and  the  populous  towns  of  Konigsberg,  and 
Memel.  At  the  place  last  named,  he  says  :  H  I  received  great  marks  of  kind- 
ness from  its  inhabitants,  who  even  expostulated  with  me  on  my  seemingly 
unhappy  mode  of  life.  If  happiness,  however,  be  the  one  pursuit  in  this 
world,  it  may  admit  of  question,  whether  a  traveler  does  not  attain  a  greater 
portion  of  it  than  most  others  —  certainly  more  than  those  who  languish  on 
the  lap  of  ease,  and  who,  in  one  shape  or  other,  feel  the  tortures  of  anxiety, 
though  surrounded  by  all  the  luxuries  which  affluence  can  procure." 

Cochrane  soon  after  crossed  the  Russian  frontier,  and  at  Narva  made  an 
acquaintance  who  gave  him  a  lift  on  his  journey.  The  story  we  tell  in  his 
own  words  :  "When  on  the  point  of  resuming  my  journey,  I  was  accosted 
by  a  black  gentleman,  who,  as  he  informed  me,  was  a  resident  and  retired 
merchant  of  St.  Petersburg.  Understanding  that  I  was  a  foreigner,  he  en- 
tered into  many  inquiries  with  me,  of  my  rank,  country,  the  object  of  my 
travels,  and  my  reasons  for  pursuing  them  on  foot.  To  these  inquiries  I  re- 
plied, and  to  the  last  simply  observed  that  I  was  in  the  habit  of  traveling  on 
foot,  and  that  indeed  I  could  not  afford  to  see  the  world  in  any  more  conve- 
nient manner.  He  expressed  his  regret  that  a  man  of  my  merit  had  not  been 
better  rewarded  by  fortune  —  and  his  satisfaction  at  the  same  time  that  he 
had  it  in  his  power  to  offer  me  a  lift  even  to  the  capital  of  Russia,  having  two 
carriages  empty ;  though  he  was  prevented  by  an  affair  of  importance 
from  resuming  the  journey  that  day.  I  accepted  his  offer,  and-  agreed  te 
3 


34  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

await  his  pleasure,  rejoiced  at  the  opportunity  afforded  me  of  entering  the 
imperial  capital  in  style,  with  less  expense,  and  still  less  fatigue.  In  the 
meantime  I  ate  and  drank  freely  at  his  charge  ;  and  not  to  appear  backward, 
I  ordered  for  myself  the  luxury  of  a  proper  bedroom,  where  I  slept  well. 

"  I  learned  the  next  morning  that  the  important  business,  which  detained 
my  friend,  was  neither  -more  nor  less  than  an  intrigue  with  a  rosy-cheeked 
chambermaid.  This  being  dispatched,  we  departed ;  he  in  the  first,  and  I  in 
the  second  carriage,  each  drawn  by  four  horses.  I  had  a  specific  charge  from 
him  to  use  no  ceremony  in  abusing  the  coachman  if  he  should  slacken  in  his 
driving.  I  soon  forgot  this  admonition  in  a  sound  sleep,  for  which,  by-the- 
by,  I  afterward  got  a  severe  reprimand.  We  passed  through  Yamberg  and 
reached  Kipene  the  next  evening.  My  companion,  again  having  treated  me 
with  supper  and  bed,  left  me  for  the  night,  evidently  a  little  nettled  at  his  ill 
success  in  engaging  the  affections  of  a  little  Russian  girl  who  had  waited  on 
us  at  table. 

"  While  at  breakfast  next  morning  and  just  as  the  horses  were  announced, 
my  companion  asked  me  whether  I  was  furnished  with  a  passport.  I  replied 
in  the  affirmative.  He  requested  to  see  it ;  and  observing  my  name,  inquired 
if  I  was  related  '  to  Admiral  KaTcran,  who  was  in  de  West  Indies  at  de  cap- 
ture ob  de  Danish  island  in  1807?'  Being  informed  I  was  the  admiral's 
nephew,  he  asked,  'Be  you  de  son  ob  massa  Johnstone  KakranV — 'Yes,  I 
am,' — '  You  are  den,'  said  he,  '  dat  lilly  massa  Jonny  I  know'd  at  de  same 
time.'  It  now  turned  out  that  this  black  gentleman,  with  the  two  carriages 
and  four  horses  each,  had  been  my  father's  and  my  uncle's  servant  thirteen 
years  before.  Having  talked  over  old  matters,  he  remarked  that  he  never 
could  have  recognized  me,  from  the  alteration  that  time  had  made  in  my  fea- 
tures ;  observing  that  I  seemed  to  have  verified  the  West  Indian  proverb, 
'  Like  the  black  man's  pig,  very  lilly  bvt  dam  old*  I  acknowledged  the  jus- 
tice of  the  remark  and  proceeded  to  inquire  his  history ;  but  as  he  did  not 
seem  inclined  to  be  communicative  on  this  head,  I  did  not  press  him  ;  and 
we  proceeded  both  in  the  same  carriage  ;  my  friend  no  longer  considering 
me  in  the  light  of  a  menial  servant" 

At  parting  with  his  sable  friend  at  St.  Petersburg,  he  declined,  much  to 
Cochrane's  chagrin,  giving  him  his  address,  as  he  felt  an  increased  curiosity 
to  learn  the  source  of  his  wealth  and  situation  in  life.  The  next  day,  in  relat- 
ing this  adventure  to  Dr.  Ryan,  the  physician  of  the  young  prince  Labonoff, 
the  doctor  stated  that  the  carriages  of  the  prince  having  been  left  at  Narva, 
he  sent  his  black  servant  to  bring  them  to  the  capital.  Fortune's  frolic 
was  now  explained  ;  the  wealthy,  dashing,  overbearing,  and  intriguing  com- 
panion of  the  captain  being  no  more  than  the  very  humble  attendant  of  his 
Highness. 

Having  obtained  comfortable  lodgings  in  St.  Petersburg,  through  the  inter- 
vention of  the  British  consul-general,  Cochrane  sent  a  memorial,  by 
Count  Nesselrode,  to  the  emperor,  soliciting  a  permit  to  pass  through  the 
Russian  empire  on  his  way  to  America,  either  by  Kamtschatka  or  Behring's 
Straits  —  a  sealed  mandate  from  the  emperor,  with  an  order  from  all  gover- 
nors and  persons  in  authority  to  assist  him  to  the  utmost  of  their  power — one 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY  35 

to  the  police  not  to  interfere  or  molest  him,  and  a  letter  of  introduction  to  the 
governor-general  of  Siberia.  The  emperor  Alexander,  with  the  well-known 
kindness  of  his  disposition,  not  only  granted  him  all  he  asked,  but  generously 
offered  to  provide  him  money  for  the  journey,  at  the  same  time -expressing 
a  belief  that  when  he  was  furnished  with  the  required  documents  he  would 
flinch  from  his  formidable  and  hazardous  undertaking.  The  gift  of  money 
he  gratefully  declined,  and  to  the  expression  of  the  belief,  he  replied,  he 
should  be  ready  to  set  off  on  his  journey  of  eight  or  ten  thousand  miles  at 
half  an  hour's  notice. 

In  Russia  the  police  regulations  respecting  travelers,  are  very  strict,  and 
it  was  fortunate  for  Cochrane  that  he  had  an  influential  friend  at  court.  A 
stranger  in  St.  Petersburg  is  obliged  to  procure  a  permit  of  residence,  and  he 
cannot  leave  for  the  interior  without  obtaining  certain  papers.  So  stringent 
are  the  Russian  police  that  it  is  not  probable,  except  in  a  time  of  war,  that 
a  single  foreigner  has,  within  a  century,  entered  Russia  without  their 
knowing  accurately  his  name,  business  and  movements.  Nor  can  a  foreigner 
Heave  St.  Petersburg  unless  he  first  publish  his  intention  in  three  successive 
numbers  of  the  Gazette,  as  a  measure  of  safety  to  his  creditors.  After  this  he 
must  petition  for  a  passport.  It  is  with  great  difficulty  that  a  Russian  can  leave 
the  empire  at  all,  and  then  only  for  a  limited  time,  and  after  an  enormous  ex- 
penditure. If  he  does  not  return  at  the  call  of  the  police,  he  is  liable  to  have 
his  property  confiscated  and  to  be  banished  to  Siberia. 

Since  Cochrane  was  at  St.  Petersburg,  the  city  has  much  advanced  in 
elegance  and  refinement,  and  this  great  capital  now  absorbs  so  much  of  the 
notice  of  the  civilized  world  that  we  pause  to  give  a  more  lengthy  notice, 
from  the  records  of  a  recent  American  traveler. 

St.  Petersburg  was  founded  by  the  Czar,  Peter  the  Great,  in  1703,  to 
secure  a  communication  by  sea  between  his  empire  and  the  rest  of  Europe. 
It  is  built  upon  a  marsh  upon  the  southern  bank  of  the  Neva,  and  includes 
several  islands  in  the  river.  The  houses  generally  stand  upon  piles  and  are 
usually  of  brick  covered  with  plaster  and  washed  a  white,  yellow  or  pink  color. 
The  intense  cold  of  winter  discolors  the  walls  and  peels  off  the  stucco.  About 
the  first  of  June  some  70  or  80,000  serfs  come  from  the  interior  to  repair  and 
rebeautify  the  city,  which  soon,  assumes  as  fresh  an  appearance,  as  if  entirely 
new.  When  viewed  in  the  subdued  twilight  of  a  summer  evening,  the  bril- 
liant colors  of  the  colonnades,  and  deep  embrasures  of  the  palaces  and  other 
public  buildings  are  indescribably  beautiful.  Some  of  the  islands  are  occu- 
pied as  summer  residences  by  members  of  the  royal  family,  and  by  the  no- 
bility, and  are  embellished  with  villas,  shell  chateaux  and  fantastic  cottages  ; 
at  every  turn  water  perspectives,  lawns  containing  Chinese  pagodas,  Grecian 
temples,  and  Italian  colonnades  are  continually  presented  to  the  eye.  Some 
of  these  charming  residences  are  surrounded  with  parks,  vine-covered  pavil- 
ions, and  terraces  adorned  with  flowers,  while  the  perfume  of  the  plants,  and 
the  sounds  of  music  make  it  seem  like  enchantment. 

Days  are  required  to  see  all  the  curiosities  at  St.  Petersburg.  Among 
these  may  be  mentioned  the  Hermitage  with  its  two  thousand  paintings,  and 
within  which  are  the  famous  winter  gardens,  and  the  scenes  of  the  voluptu- 


86  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

ous  banquets  of  Catherine — the  Imperial  Library,  with  its  half  a  million  of 
rare  volumes  and  manuscripts — the  Museum  of  Peter,  containing  his  clothes, 
and  tools,  and  specimens  of  his  handicraft ;  the  Museum  of  the  Academy  of 
Sciences,  etc.  Beside  these  are  Imperial  lyceums,  gymnasiums,  universities, 
military  schools,  schools  of  engineers,  of  law,  medicine,  etc.;  charitable  insti- 
tutions, and  various  others.  In  the  city  are  over  two  hundred  churches  and 
chapels,  most  of  which  are  surmounted  with  four  or  five  golden  or  parti- 
colored cupolas,  and  adorned  within  by  a  profusion  of  ornaments,  shrines  and 
images  of  the  Virgin,  resplendent  with  gold  and  jewels.  One  of  the  first 
streets  in  the  world  is  the  Nevsky  Perspective,  three  miles  in  length,  which  is 
usually  crowded  with  vehicles  of  all  kinds,  and  thronged  with  ladies,  ser- 
vants in  livery,  officers  and  soldiers  of  every  uniform,  Circassians  and  Cos- 
sacks in  their  respective  costumes,  civilians,  merchants  and  serfs  in  sheep- 
skins. 

In  the  environs  of  the  city,  the  palace  of  PeterhofF,  or  the  house  of  Peter, 
rich  in  treasures  of  arts,  and  gorgeous  in  the  splendor  of  its  decorations  and 
furniture,  equaling  Versailles  in  the  magnitude  and  beauty  of  its  artificial 
cascades,  presents  an  unrivaled  picture  of  luxury  and  taste.  In  this  retreat, 
the  Great  Czar  was  accustomed  to  forget  the  cares  of  office,  while  yielding  to 
the  charms  of  his  peasant-born  mistress.  In  these  grounds  the  widow  of 
Peter  was  wont  to  mingle  the  habits  of  her  early  life  with  the  indulgences  of 
her  imperial  condition,  in  suppers  prepared  by  her  own  queenly  hands.  Here 
the  second  Catherine,  timid  in  the  midst  of  regal  splendors  secluded  herself 
at  times  from  the  world,  and  refusing  the  ministry  of  human  hands,  was 
served  at  table  by  the  aid  of  ingenious  machinery.  In  her  amusements,  she 
sometimes  sought  to  realize  fairy  scenes  in  the  music  of  nymphs,  the  wood- 
land dances  of  youth  arrayed  in  white,  and  in  the  serving  of  feasts  appa- 
rently by  magic  art.  Few  of  these  curious  devices  now  remain  ;  mechanical 
fish  still  swim  in  the  neglected  waters,  and  an  artificial  tree  drenches  the  too 
confiding  stranger  with  copious  showers  of  water,  the  moment  he  seeks  its 
shade.  A  pond  in  the  vicinity  illustrates  the  punctuality  with  which  fish  can 
be  taught  to  come  for  their  food  at  the  ringing  of  the  bell. 

A  Railway  uniting  St.  Petersburg  with  Tsarkoe,  a  distance  of  15  miles, 
was  the  first  constructed  in  Russia.  An  accident,  attended  with  the  loss  of 
several  lives,  prejudiced  the  public  against  its  use.  So  great  is  the  timidity 
of  this  people,  in  the  risk  of  human  life,  that  Carter,  the  Lion  Tamer,  was 
forbidden  to  exhibit  his  usual  feats,  and  the  same  feeling  proving  injurious  to 
the  prosperity  of  the  road,  the  Emperor,  attended  by  the  President  of  the 
company,  volunteered  to  intrust  his  august  person  to  this  dangerous  species 
of  locomotion,  before  confidence  could  be  restored  and  the  road  resume  its 
accustomed  business. 

Not  far  from  the  city,  the  Imperial  Farming  Institution  educates,  at  the 
public  expense,  two  hundred  young  men  selected  for  their  intelligence.  A 
sober-looking  Yankee,  ignorant  of  all  languages  but  his  own,  but  with  a  head 
full  of  native  ingenuity,  had  wandered  to  Russia,  with  a  lot  of  patent  Yankee 
Agricultural  machines,  and  was  astonishing  the  Russian  youths  with  the  su- 
perior style   and  execution  of   his  implements  of  husbandry.     The  broad 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY  37 

swarth,  the  smooth  meadow,  the  straight  furrows,  were  a  novelty  to  men  ac- 
customed to  zig-zag  plowing,  ragged  mowing,  and  antediluvian  tools,  but  a 
hastily-constructed  winnowing  machine  to  take  the  place  of  the  primitive  cus- 
tom of  throwing  the  grain  into  the  air,  for  the  wind  to  remove  the  chaff,  com- 
pleted their  amazement.  Yet  the  empty  honor  of  membership  in  the  Impe- 
rial Society  of  agriculture  was  all  the  reward  vouchsafed  to  the  enterprising 
stranger. 

The  Royal  foundery  of  Alexandroffsky  is  under  the  management  of  Ame- 
ricans, and  the  entire  system  of  Russian  railways,  as  well  as  the  construction 
of  the  noble  line,  from  St.  Petersburg  to  Moscow,  was  confided  to  an  Ameri- 
can gentleman  of  eminent  professional  ability — the  late  Major  George  W. 
Whistler,  formerly  of  the  U.  S.  Engineer  corps,  and  widely  known  for  his 
connection  with  the  early  history  of  Massachusetts'  railways.  In  spite  of 
the  obstacles  presented  by  the  peculiar  face  of  the  country,  by  the  mulish- 
ness  of  the  peasantry,  by  court  intrigue  and  by  disappointed  competitors,  he 
succeeded  in  all  his  plans,  and  so  thoroughly  justified  the  confidence  placed 
in  him,  as  an  American,  that  two  American  Contractors,  Messrs.  Harrison  and 
Eastwick,  of  Philadelphia,  and  Mr.  Winants,  of  Baltimore,  were  employed 
from  among  a  host  of  competitors,  English,  French,  Dutch,  German,  and 
Belgian,  to  furnish  the  road  with  locomotives  and  cars.  The  English  work- 
men  at  the  Royal  Foundery  were  of  course  disgusted  with  this  scheme  of  the 
Yankees,  a  disgust  not  lessened  by  the  recollection  that  the  Emperor's  favor- 
ite steam  yacht  was  of  American  manufacture,  but  very  much  deepened  by 
an  order  speedily  to  quit  the  Foundery,  which  up  to  this  time,  had  been  under 
English  control.  The  assistant  workmen,  however,  who  had  been  imported 
into  the  country  from  the  United  States  at  high  wages,  soon  gave  place  to 
Swedish  mechanics,  worried  out  with  a  land  and  a  people  ignorant  of  politi- 
cal speeches  and  political  excitement,  and  not  yet  blessed  with  a  newspaper 
press,  with  free  schools  or  free  churches.  The  manufacture  of  locomotives 
and  cars  was  carried  on  upon  a  gigantic  scale  ;  three  thousand  workmen 
were  speedily  employed  in  the  construction  of  two  hundred  of  the  first, 
and  seven  thousand  of  the  last.  Contracts  to  the  amount  of  millions  of 
money  were  soon  offered  to  the  enterprising  young  Americans.  But  they  had 
to  work  mainly  with  Russian  operatives,  and  in  spite  of  all  their  humanity 
they  could  find  no  substitute  for  the  lash  with  which  to  sustain  their  invete- 
rate propensity  to  lying,  theft,  laziness,  and  drunkenness.  Still  their  success 
repeatedly  elicited  the  warm  commendation  and  approval  of  the  Czar.  The 
introduction  of  steam  excavating  and  pile-driving  machines  from  this  country 
into  Russia,  and  the  success  of  an  American  dentist  in  regulating  the  Imperial 
grinders,  together  with  the  known  partiality  of  the  Emperor  for  American 
mechanics,  brought  upon  him,  a  few  years  ago,  a  perfect  torrent  of  Yankee 
notions.  From  a  patent  pin  machine  to  the  picture  of  an  awful  looking 
stomach,  diseased  by  brandy,  nothing,  it  was  thought,  could  come  amiss  to 
his  majesty.  Wooden  clocks,  Newtown  pippins,  Colt's  revolvers,  Mineral 
teeth,  were  a  few  of  the  articles  sent  out  by  our  speculating  countrymen.  But 
the  matter  was  overdone,  and  a  ukase  was  issued  declining,  for  the  future, 
all    presents    to  the    Royal    family ;  otherwise    the  Russian   empire  might 


38  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND   SIBERIA. 

have  been  regenerated  by  the  money  making  projects  of  speculating 
Yankees. 

The  summer  of  St.  Petersburg  is  short.  The  long  twilights  of  July  are 
succeeded,  in  September,  by  the  long  nights  and  gloomy  days  of  the  early 
northern  winter.  The  withered  leaves,  the  piercing  air,  the  gray  and  dismal 
sky,  the  wailing  winds,  and  the  mournful  murmurs  of  the  Neva,  seem  to 
unite  in  a  sad  requiem  over  the  early  grave  of  summer.  October  comes,  and 
at  this  dreary  season,  the  last  steamer  takes  its  departure  for  another  land, 
and  with  it  all  water  intercourse  of  St.  Petersburg  with  other  countries, 
ceases,  and  the  broad  Baltic  is  chained  for  many  months  in  endless  fields 
of  ice. 

In  the  dead  of  winter,  the  sunlight  lasts  but  about  five  hours,  and  fre- 
quently artificial  light  is  made  necessary  by  the  clouds  and  dense  mists.  In 
this  season  of  extreme  cold  the  mercury  sometimes  sinks  to  30°  and  35°  be- 
low zero.  Regular  exercise  is  impossible  by  a  stranger,  but  the  Russian 
peasant,  his  beard  white  with  frost  and  his  body  only  covered  with  a  rude 
sheepskin,  withstands  the  severest  cold  with  a  hardihood  almost  incredible. 
The  howl  of  wolves  is  often  heard  in  the  suburbs  mingled  with  the  long  wild 
cry  of  the  Russian  sentinel.  The  clear  nights  of  this  season  of  the  year  are 
surpassingly  beautiful.  *  The  evergreen  and  ever  silent  woodland,  hung 
with  white  drapery,  and  the  pine  boughs  tipped  with  icicles  image  forth  the 
realms  of  the  great  frost  king,  while  millions  of  stars  twinkle  in  the  cold, 
clear  firmament  and  the  moonlight  sparkles  upon  the  crystal-surfaced  snow." 
The  winter  in  the  capital  is  a  constant  scene  of  festivity  ;  crowds  of  peasants 
flock  to  the  city  in  their  rude  vehicles  ;  an  animated  crowd  fills  the  Nevsky, 
representatives  from  every  country  of  Europe  and  Asia,  all  protected  by  furs 
from  the  cold.  The  highway,  at  the  same  time,  is  filled  with  every  kind  of 
sleigh,  from  the  dashing  rapid  moving  equipage  of  the  noble  to  the  plain 
block  of  ice  on  which  the  Finland  peasant  woman  sits  in  her  humble  sledge. 
The  Emperor  is  often  seen  in  the  Nevsky.  The  flutter  of  the  crowd  an- 
nounces his  approach,  sometimes  in  a  vehicle  of  little  pretension,  and  some- 
times on  foot — a  tall  figure  with  plumed  hat  and  dark  cloak,  recognizes  by 
the  military  salute  the  homage  of  the  multitude  and  speedily  disappears. 

The  palaces  of  the  wealthy  nobles,  in  St.  Petersburg,  are  furnished  in  the 
French  style,  with  great  extravagance  and  splendor.  In  the  winter,  they  be- 
come the  theaters  of  festal  scenes  of  exceeding  brilliancy,  and  the  visitor  is 
at  once  transported  from  the  cold  of  winter  to  the  warmth  of  a  summer 
clime.  Whenever  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  or  his  family,  visit  a  noble  house, 
they  are  given  a  most  brilliant  reception.  On  his  approach,  anxiety  and  awe 
are  impressed  upon  every  countenance.  He  hurries  with  an  air  of  diffidence 
and  impatience  from  room  to  room,  and  as  he  enters,  the  multitude 
arise  and  in  silence  make  the  most  profound  obeisance.  All  eyes  are  upon 
him  to  catch  his  words  and  watch  his  every  motion.  No  one  can  speak  un- 
less first  addressed  by  him.  And  happy  and  envied  is  that  individual  who 
has  received  a  nod  of  recognition  from  his  sovereign.  "  What  favor,"  once 
asked  the  Emperor  of  a  courtier,  "  can  I  bestow  upon  you  ?"  "  Every  time 
you  see  me  at  court,"  he  replied,  "  whisper  in  my  ear,  ■  you  are  an  Ass.'  " 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  J0URNE7  39 

During  carnival  the  balls  and  festivities  are  most  brilliant.  These  are  ter- 
minated  by  Lent.  With  Easter  the  gayety  is  resumed,  balls  again  come  in 
vogue,  theatres  are  opened,  and  the  square  of  the  admiralty  is  filled  by  ice 
hills*  shows,  and  the  circus.  At  this  season  the  common  Russians,  huge 
bearded  fellows,  carry  in  their  bosoms  and  eat  large  quantities  of  hard  bo^ed 
eggs,  of  variegated  colors,  and  painted  with  the  cross.  On  meeting  a  friend 
they  give  him  one,  exclaiming,  "  Christ  is  risen."  The  latter,  on  taking  it, 
rejoins,  "He  is  risen  indeed."  The  two  then  hug  and  kiss  each  other  most 
lovingly. 

Most  of  the  prominent  nobles  of  the  capital  have  traveled,  and  are  refined 
in  manners  and  magnificent  in  their  hospitality  ;  but  they  are  licentious,  and 
spend  their  lives  and  fortunes  in  a  continued  round  of  dissipation.  The  Rus- 
sian ladies  have  great  vivacity,  dress  with  exquisite  taste,  are  extremely  win- 
ning and  seductive  in  their  manners  ;  but  they  are  licentious,  intriguing,  and 
sensual.  Before  marriage  the  peasant  girl  essays  illicit  love  ;  but  with  the 
noblesse  that  is  reserved  until  after  wedlock,  as  marriage  is  but  a  matter  of 
convenience,  and  every  opportunity  is  then  given  to  the  unbridled  gratifica- 
tion of  her  passions. 

Whoever  visits  St.  Petersburg  in  May  will  have  an  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing one  of  the  most  gorgeous  military  spectacles  in  the  world — the  review 
of  the  Imperial  Guard,  which  takes  place  preparatory  to  their  departure  to 
summer  quarters.  A  private  letter  of  a  young  American,  who  was  present 
at  this  review,  thus  graphically  describes  it : 

"  For  about  four  hours,"  says  he,  "  I  had  a  good  view  of  the  magnificent 
sight,  and  my  hurried  pen  will  fail  to  give  you  an  adequate  description  of  its 
exceeding  splendor.  When  I  arrived  upon  the  ground  the  troops  had 
already  begun  to  march. 

The  balconies  and  windows  of  the  public  buildings  and  elegant  private 
residences  surrounding  it  were  filled  with  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  the 
sides  of  the  field  itself  thronged  with  a  dense  mass  of  men,  women  and 
children.  On  one  side  stood  a  gorgeous  tent  upon  a  raised  platform  for  the 
Empress,  before  whom  and  the  Emperor  the  troops  were  to  pass  in  review. 
The  panoramic  view  of  the  whole  you  can  readily  imagine  was  beautiful;  but 
the  review  itself  of  this  great  body  of  sixty  thousand  troops,  who  in  part  only 
compose  the  garde  imperiale  of  the  Emperor,  and  who  are  distinct  from  the 
main  army,  which,  I  believe,  numbers  near  one  million  rank  and  file,  is  a  spec- 
tacle of  surpassing  interest. 

The  foot  soldiers,  infantry  principally,  first  passed  in  review,  marching  by 
platoons  of  companies,  containing,  perhaps,  one  hundred  and  fifty  men  each, 
and  in  double  order.  As  each  platoon  arrived  opposite  the  Emperor,  it  sent 
forth  as  with  the  voice  of  a  giant,  the  peculiar  Russian  hurrah,  for  "  my 
beloved."  The  soldiers  were  all  picked  men,  tall,  athletic,  and  each  wore  a 
heavy,  black  moustache.  They  moved  with  mathematical  precision,  and 
whether  on  a  slow  or  quick  march,  were  like  pieces  of  mechanism,  their 
muskets  not  varying  it  seemed  an  inch  either  in  height  or  inclination. 

Of  all  the  marching  I  have  witnessed,  and  I  have  seen  the  American, 
French,  Dutch  and  Prussian  soldiers — none  will  at  all  compare  with  the  Rus 


40  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND   SIBERIA. 

sian,  The  uniform  of  the  infantry  was  blue  and  red,  not  unlike  our  militia 
uniform  in  Connecticut.  It  was  about  two  hours  before  the  infantry  had 
passed  in  review  :  then  came  the  cavalry  advancing  in  double  order  by  pla- 
toons of  sixty  horses  abreast ;  which,  when  I  recall,  seems  like  a  magnificent 
vision. 

A  company  of  Caucassian  Princes  were  in  the  advance,  mounted  upon  coal 
black  fiery  steeds,  with  long  manes,  and  tails  almost  sweeping  the  ground. 
The  Caucassians,  a  fierce  and  manly-looking  body,  were  dressed  in  a  scarlet 
garment  fitting  close  to  the  skin  ;  over  this  was  a  finely-wrought  steel  chain 
armor,  covering  the  entire  body.  Upon  their  feet  were  a  kind  of  sandal  ; 
upon  their  legs  leather  leggings  similar  to  those  of  our  Indian  warriors  ;  across 
their  backs  a  bow  with  well-filled  quivers  ;  in  their  hands  a  carabine,  and  in 
their  girdles  the  savage- looking  yataghan. 

The  Tartars  succeeded,  upon  their  wild-looking  fleet  little  horses,  with 
their  necks  shot  forward  and  lifted  heads,  as  if  snuffing  the  breeze  ;  and  so 
uniform  was  this  line  of  heads  that  it  seemed  as  if  they  were  drawn  up  by 
pullies.  The  costume  of  the  Tartar  soldier  is  a  blue  frock  trimmed  with  silver, 
and  a  kind  of  skull-cap  bound  with  fur.  In  his  hand  is  a  spear,  the  end  of 
which  he  rests  upon  the  head  between  the  ears  of  his  horse. 

Then  came  the  Chevalier  Lancers,  splendid  looking  men,  in  white  cassimere, 
upon  most  elegant  horses,  with  heavy  and  highly-polished  brass  breast- 
plates, and  brass  helmets,  surmounted  by  the  imperial  eagles. 

Regiment  after  regiment  passed  by,  each  regiment  with  different  colored 
horses,  and  the  horses  in  each  regiment  so  well  matched  in  size,  form,  color, 
and  indeed  every  respect,  that  to  distinguish  them,  each  had  braided  in  his 
mane  his  number  upon  a  small  plate.  The  lancers  are  all  picked  men,  the 
flower  of  the  Russian  army — the  officers  of  noble  birth  :  were  it  not  for  the 
different  colored  pennants  upon  their  lances,  and  color  of  the  horses,  no  one 
regiment  could  be  distinguished  from  another. 

After  the  lancers  came  the  Imperial  Hussars,  in  their  costume  of  red  with 
high  fur  caps,  and  all  mounted  upon  snow-white  steeds.  This,  it  is  said,  is 
the  favorite  regiment  of  the  Empress.  Following  them  were  the  Imperial 
Carabineers,  on  black  horses,  and  dressed  like  the  Lancers,  except  that  their 
helmets  and  breast-plates  were  of  steel  highly  polished.  Next  were  the  Cos- 
sacks— their  black  steeds  carrying  their  heads  high  in  the  air.  The  uniform 
of  the  latter  is  similar  to  the  Tartars  above  described,  except  in  their  caps, 
which  are  high,  and  of  fur  :  their  weapon  is  a  sharp-pointed  lance  of  steel. 
The  rear  of  this  immense  body  of  cavalry,  amounting  to  over  thirty  thousand, 
was  brought  up  by  the  regiments  of  mounted  artillery,  six  horses  abreast, 
three  to  each  gun.  The  Sappers  and  Miners'  baggage  wagons  and  the  pon- 
toon train  terminated  the  line. 

But  the  greatest  sight  was  the  marching  of  the  horses  attached  to  the  dif- 
ferent regiments  ;  they  seemed  like  machines.  You  think  it  '  strange/  no 
doubt,  and  yet  it  is  no  less  '  strange  than  true,'  that  every  horse  in  march- 
ing kept  perfect  time  with  his  feet  to  the  music.  I  never  saw  soldiers  on  foot  do 
it  better,  indeed  not  so  well,  for  when  a  quick  lively  tune  was  played,  every 
horse  commenced  a  trot,  and  kept  up  the  same  uniformity  of  step  as  before 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN"  JOURNEY  41 

when  on  a  walk.  And  to  see  those  horses  wheel  by  companies,  and  i*»  dou- 
ble order,  coming  round  with  the  precision  of  a  compass  describing  a  circle, 
exceeded  anything  I  ever  imagined.  After  the  whole  army — for  the  Impe- 
rial Guard  is  organized  as  an  entire  and  distinct  army — had  passed  in  review 
in  order  before  the  Emperor,  the  infantry  left,  and  the  cavalry  remained,  and 
went  through  some  evolutions.  First,  the  Caucasians  came  at  a  full  run 
down  the  field,  and  the  other  regiments  in  succession. 

After  this  the  whole  body  stationed  themselves  at  some  distance  opposite 
the  Emperor  in  close  order,  and  at  a  given  signal,  half  of  the  body,  over  fif- 
teen thousand  horsemen,  started  on  a  run,  and  suddenly  halted  a  few  feet  in 
advance  of  the  Czar,  preserving,  as  they  halted  the  same  compactness  and 
perfect  front  they  had  before  starting.  A  few  more  evolutions  finished  the 
review,  a  day  which  has  done  much  to  impress  on  me  the  remark  of  Napo- 
leon, that  with  an  army  of  Russian  soldiers  he  could  conquer  the  world. 
He  spoke  of  soldiers,  not  of  officers,  of  whom  he  had  not  a  high  opinion." 

The  Russian  soldier  is  a  mere  machine,  and  has  not  a  thought  beyond  his 
Church  and  the  Emperor;  for  both  he  believes  it  is  his  duty  to  live  and  die. 

The  pay  of  the  Russian  soldier  is  only  about  three  dollars  per  annum. 
He  is  fed  upon  a  coarse  bread  and  a  kind  of  soup,  and,  upon  some  great  fete 
day,  is  given  meat  as  a  luxury.  The  pay  of  the  Russian  officer  is  also  very 
small.  A  lieutenant  gets  but  five  hundred  rubles  per  annum — a  little  more 
than  one  hundred  dollars  ;  a  captain,  seven  hundred  rubles ;  and  a  colonel, 
only  two  thousand  rubles. 

You  ask,  "how  they  live  I ,  The  officers  generally  have  a  competency  beyond 
their  pay  ;  some  few  there  are  who  have  not,  and  their  condition  is  worse  than 
the  soldier,  for  the  latter  is  provided  with  a  uniform,  and  is  fed  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  Emperor." 

We  now  return  to  follow  the  fortunes  of  our  traveler,  whose  stay  in  St. 
Petersburg  was  but  brief. 

On  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  May  he  buckled  on  his  knapsack,  turned 
his  back  on  St.  Petersburg,  and  trotted  over  a  partially  cultivated  country. 
A  pretty  avenue  of  birch  trees  lined  the  road,  as  if  to  accompany  him  as  far  as 
possible  on  his  departure  from  the  precincts  of  civilized  man.  "Nature 
here,"  says  he,  "got  the  better  of  a  tolerably  stout  heart;  and  as  I  turned 
around  to  catch  a  last  glimpse  of  the  capital  I  had  left,  and  of  the  friends  to 
whom  I  had  bade,  perhaps,  a  last  adieu,  I  could  not  suppress  my  grief,  and 
had  not  my  honor  been  committed,  should  certainly  have  returned.  A  sigh 
escaped  me  as  I  ejaculated  my  last  farewell,  till  starting  at  the  expression 
of  my  weakness,  I  resumed  my  journey  with  slow  and  melancholy  steps. 

"  It  was  ten  o'clock — for  I  had  now  a  watch — and  I  had  reached  six  miles. 
The  night  was  beautifully  clear,  though  rather  cold  from  the  effects  of  a 
northern  breeze.  The  moon  was  nearly  full,  and  I  looked  at  the  beautiful 
luminary,  and  then  considered  my  project  and  intentions  and  the  conduct  I 
ought  to  follow  :  sitting  down  at  a  fountain  on  the  Poulkousky  hill,  I  read  to 
myself  a  few  lessons  which  the  time  and  the  occasion  seemed  to  inspire  : 
*  Go,'  said  I,  '  and  wander  with  the  illiterate  and  almost  brutal  savage  ! — go, 
and  be  the  companion  of  the  ferocious  beast !  —  go,  and  contemplate  the  hu« 


42  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

man  being  in  every  element  and  climate,  whether  civilized  or  savage  —  of 
whatever  tribe,  nation,  or  religion.  Make  due  allowance  for  the  rusticity  of 
their  manners ;  nor  be  tempted  to  cope  with  them  in  those  taunts,  insults,  and 
rudeness  to  which  the  nature  of  thy  enterprise  will  subject  thee.  Contemn 
those  incidental  circumstances  which  but  too  often  surprise  mankind  from 
their  good  intentions  and  deprive  the  world  of  much  useful  and  interesting 
information.  Avoid  all  unpleasant  topics,  and  remember  that  '  the  proper 
study  of  mankind  is  man.'  Should  robbers  attack  thee,  do  not  by  a  foolish 
resistance  endanger  thy  life.  Man  may  become  hardened  by  crimes,  and 
persist  in  the  practice  of  them,  till  meeting  with  resistance  he  will  be  tempted 
to  murder  ;  but  man  is  still  a  human  being,  even  while  seeking  subsistence 
by  rapine  and  plunder,  and  seldom,  from  mere  wantonness,  will  he  spill  the 
blood  of  his  fellow-creature.  It  is  only  by  patience,  perseverance,  and  humi- 
lity, by  reducing  thyself  to  the  lowest  level  of  mankind,  that  thou  canst  expect 
to  pass  through  the  ordeal  with  either  safety  or  satisfaction. '  Something  like 
these  were  my  self-dictated  precepts,  and  I  pledged  their  performance  in  a 
draught  from  the  cool  and  limpid  fountain." 

A  few  miles  beyond  Tosna,  he  sat  down  beside  a  milestone  to  enjoy  the 
solace  of  a  pipe,  "  when,"  says  he,  "  I  was  suddenly  seized  from  behind  by 
two  ruffians,  whose  visages  were  as  much  concealed  as  the  oddness  of  their 
dress  would  permit.  One  of  them,  who  held  an  iron  bar  in  his  hand,  dragged 
me  by  the  collar  toward  the  forest,  while  the  other,  with  a  bayoneted  mus- 
ket pushed  me  on,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  me  move  with  more  than 
ordinary  celerity :  a  boy,  auxiliary  to  these  vagabonds,  was  stationed  on  the 
road-side  to  keep  a  look-out.  We  had  got  into  the  thick  forest  when  I  was 
compelled  to  strip  myself  entirely  naked,  and  then  they  tied  me  to  a  tree.  I 
began  to  think,  from  their  manner,  that  they  intended  to  shoot  at  me  for  a 
target.  I  was  however  reserved  for  other  uses ;  the  villains,  with  much  sang- 
froid, seated  themselves  at  my  feet,  and  rifled  my  knapsack  and  pockets. 
They  then  compelled  me  to  take  at  least  a  pound  of  black  bread  and  a  glass 
of  rum  from  my  flask.  Having  appropriated  my  trowsers,  shirts,  stockings, 
and  English  shooting  shoes — which  I  regretted  most  of  all — as  also  my  spec- 
tacles, watch,  compass,  thermometer,  and  pocket  sextant,  and  all  my  money, 
they  at  length  released  me  from  the  tree,  and  at  the  point  of  a  stiletto  made 
me  swear  that  I  would  not  inform  against  them.  I  was  then  again  treated 
to  bread  and  rum  and  once  more  fastened  to  the  tree,  and  thus  abandoned. 
Not  long  after,  a  boy,  who  was  passing,  heard  my  cries  and  set  me  at  liberty. 
I  did  not  doubt  he  was  sent  by  the  robbers,  and  felt  so  far  grateful ;  though 
it  required  uncommon  charity  to  forgive  their  depriving  me  of  my  shirt  and 
trowsers  and  leaving  me  almost  as  naked  as  I  came  into  the  world. 

To  continue  his  route  or  return  he  thought  would  be  alike  indecent  and 
ridiculous,  but  there  being  no  remedy,  he  pursued  his  journey.  He  had  still 
left  a  blue  jacket  and  two  waistcoats.  He  put  on  his  jacket  and  one  waist- 
coat as  usual,  tied  his  other  waistcoat  around  his  body,  so  as  to  serve  as  a 
sort  of  short  petticoat  reaching  to  his  knees,  restored  his  empty  knapsack  tv 
its  old  place,  and  then  shirtless  and  trowserless,  bareheaded  and  barefooted 
"trotted  on,"  to  use  his  own  language,  "  with  even  a  merry  heart." 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY  43 

Within  a  few  miles  he  came  up  to  General  Woronoff,  who  was  overseeing 
a  corps  of  soldiers  making  a  new  road.  His  excellency  provided  him  with 
food,  and  then  offered  him  some  clothing,  which  he  declined,  "  considering" 
his  "  thin  dress  as  peculiarly,  as  well  as  nationally  becoming."  The  generaj 
directed  his  coachman  to  take  him  in  his  carriage  to  the  first  station,  but 
Cochrane,  finding  riding  too  cold,  preferred  walking,  barefooted  as  he  was. 
Passing  through  many  neat  and  populous  villages,  he  reached  Novgorod, 
over  a  hundred  miles  from  St.  Petersburg.  The  town  looked  grandly  as  he 
approached  :  the  numerous  spires  and  steeples  of  the  churches  and  convents, 
with  their  gilded  and  silvered  casements  glittering  in  the  sun,  recalled  for  a 
moment  the  memory  of  its  ancient  splendor.  On  entering  the  place  the  first 
thing  he  did  was  to  call  upon  the  governor,  who  at  once  offered  him  cloth- 
ing :  he  was,  however,  hungry,  and  requested  food.  The  governor  smiled, 
but  assented,  and  then  Cochrane  accepted  a  shirt  and  trowsers,  and  eventu- 
ally a  complete  outfit  from  his  excellency. 

This  ancient  and  celebrated  city,  which  in  former  days  was  characterized 
by  the  proverb:  "Who  can  resist  the  gods  and  the  great  Novgorod?"  is 
now  only  a  provincial  capital.  In  its  glory,  it  was  the  metropolis  of  a  great 
republic,  and  contained  near  half  a  million  of  souls  within  its  walls.  The 
foundation  of  St.  Petersburg,  in  1703,  proved  a  death-blow  to  its  prosperity. 

The  steeples  of  Novgorod  present  a  monument  of  pride  to  the  inhabitants; 
the  cross  upon  them  stands  alone,  unaccompanied  by  the  crescent ;  this  being 
an  emblem  that  the  Tartars  in  all  their  invasions  never  succeeded  in  entering 
the  city. 

Cochrane  advancing  thence  into  the  interior,  found  the  country  generally 
presenting  a  wild,  gloomy,  monotonous  aspect ;  vast  dreary  plains  extended 
on  every  side  to  the  far  distant  verge  of  the  horizon,  interspersed  with  forests 
of  evergreens ;  but  as  he  neared  Moscow  the  change  was  striking,  immense 
herds  and  flocks,  with  well-peopled  villages,  greeting  the  eye  in  every  direc- 
tion. He  passed,  on  the  way,  great  numbers  of  pedestrian  laborers,  who, 
like  the  Gallegos  of  Spain,  were  traveling  to  the  southward  to  assist  the  less 
populous  districts  in  harvesting.  Just  before  he  entered  Moscow,  his  road 
led  through  a  desolate  and  dreary  waste  ;  then  the  town  with  its  hundreds 
of  spires  and  steeples,  domes  and  towers,  flashed  upon  his  eye,  and  shortly 
after,  he  entered  the  gates,  and  thus  terminated  a  continuous  walk  of  thirty- 
two  hours,  in  which  he  had  performed  one  of  his  greatest  pedestrian  feats, 
having  accomplished  ninety-six  miles. 

"  Moscow,"  says  he,  "  is  beautiful  and  rich,  grotesque  and  absurd,  magni- 
ficent and  mean.  But  beside  these  general  features,  there  is  at  present 
[1820]  one  arising  from  later  circumstances,  the  city  being  only  half  built, 
and  the  streets  half  finished ;  brick  and  mortar  everywhere  incommoding  the 
passenger.  Such  is  the  appearance  of  Moscow,  which  is  yet  very  surpris- 
ing considering  how  recently  it  has  risen  from  its  ashes."  This  city  is  said 
to  stand  upon  more  ground  than  any  other  in  Europe  ;  almost  every  paiace 
or  nobleman's  house  has  a  garden,  and  all  wooden  houses  are  detached  from 
the  fear  of  fire. 


44  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND   SIBERIA 

Moscow,  the  ancient  metropolis  of  the  Empire,  is  supposed  to  have  been 
founded   about  the  year  1300.     Although  it  was 'entirely  destroyed  by  the 
Tartars  in    the  14th  century,  by  the  Poles  in  the    17th,  and  again  in  part 
by  the  French,  it  is  now  more   splendid  and  populous  than  ever.     Its  popu- 
lation has  much  increased  since  the  visit  of  Cochrane,  and  now  is  near  four 
hundred    thousand  ;    in   appearance  it    more    resembles    an  Asiatic  than  a 
European  city.     It  is  chiefly  built  of  wood,   and  palaces   and   huts  stand 
mixed  together  in  striking  contrast.     It  has  more  than  six  hundred  churches, 
many  of  which  have  five  or  six  domes,  beside  steeples,  spires,  and  crosses, 
gilded  and  joined  together  with  golden  chains.     Its  convents,  too,  are  almost 
innumerable,  rivaling  the  churches  in  size  and  splendor.     Its  streets  broad, 
irregular  and  winding  in  every  direction,  continually  present  a  variety  of 
novel  features  to  the  stranger,  where  churches,  palaces,  barracks,  and  cot- 
tages, in  red,  blue,  and  green,  are  mixed  up  in  a  confused  and  bewildering 
mass.     On  an   eminence   in  the   middle  of  the   city,  stands  the   Kremlin,  de- 
rived from  Krem,  the  Tartar  word  for  fortress,  from  the  towers  of  which  is 
a  magnificent  view.     It  is  nearly  triangular  in  form  ;  its  walls  two  miles  in 
circumference.     Within  there  are  no   regular  streets,  but  it  contains   three 
squares,  and   abundance  of  room   for   carriages  and    foot  passengers.     It  is 
crowded  with  palaces,  churches,  monasteries,  arsenals,  museums,  and  other 
public  buildings,  exhibiting  every  variety  of  taste  and  every  order  of  archi- 
tecture, Grecian,   Gothic,  Italian,  Tartar,  and  Hindoo  ;  rude,   fanciful,  gro- 
tesque, gorgeous,  magnificent,  and  beautiful  and  overtopped  by  upward  of 
thirty  gilt  cupolas.     Above  every  object  in  the  Kremlin  rises  the   tower  of 
Ivan  Veliki,  about  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  high,  and  containing  thirty- 
three  bells,  the  smallest  of  which  weighs  seven  thousand,  and  the  largest 
one  hundred  and  twenty-four  thousand  pounds ;  on  festival  days  the  whole  are 
tolled  together.     The  Tartars   for  four  centuries  were  masters   of  Central 
.Russia.     The  officers  of  the  Khans  of  the  Golden  Horde,  most  of  the  time, 
dwelt  in  the  Kremlin,  in   oriental   magnificence,  receiving  tribute  from  the 
Russian   princes,  who  bent  their  knees   in   abject  submission   to   the  Great 
Khan,  and  when  he  entered  the  city,  offered  to   the  haughty  Tartar  a  jew- 
eled goblet  filled  with  mare's  milk,  and  even  licked  the  drops  that  fell  upon 
the  mane  of  his  war-horse. 

Ivan  the  Terrible,  whose  atrocious  cruelty  is  hardly  credible,  erected  here 
his  contrivances  for  torture.  "  I  am  your  god  as  God  is  mine  ;  my  throne  is 
surrounded  by  Archangels  as  is  the  throne  of  God,"  was  his  blasphemous 
language,  as  his  hapless  victims  were  plunged  into  caldrons  of  boiling  oil. 
Here  also  the  rack  and  the  dagger  in  the  hands  of  the  infuriated  Peter  the 
Great,  evinced  the  barbarous  determination  of  the  Czar  to  accomplish  his  re- 
forms, by  the  death  of  the  soldiery,  who  had  ventured  to  oppose  them. 
Mingling  the  excitement  of  wine  and  the  excitement  of  blood,  twenty  decap- 
itated heads  succeeded  the  same  number  of  bumpers,  and  were  followed  by 
the  destruction  of  eighty  more  of  his  soldiers,  who  were  suspended  by  their 
hair,  and  their  heads  stricken  off  by  a  cimitar  in  the  hands  of  the  frantic 
monarch.  Near  the  city  are  the  Sparrow  hills  eminence,  of  no  great  height, 
but  affording  a  charming  view  of  the  brilliancy,  the  splendor,  and  the  gro- 


COCHRANE'S   PEDESTRIAN   JOURNEY  45 

tesqueness  of  the  vast  city  in  the  plain  below.  Over  these  hills,  the  troops 
of  Napoleon  passed,  and  when,  for  the  first  time,  they  saw  spread  before 
them  that  ancient  capital,  the  promised  end  of  their  weary  marches,  brilliant 
in  the  lio-ht  of  the  morning  sun,  and  rich  in  the  treasures  of  nature  and  art, 
their  weariness  and  their  fears  were  forgotten,  as  the  cry  of  \  Moscow  1' 
'  Moscow!'  echoed  from  rank  to  rank  of  the  invading  host.  In  thirty  days  a 
desolate  plain,  with  palaces  and  churches,  domes  and  spires,  involved  in  one 
common  ruin,  was  all  that  the  great  conflagration  had  left  of  this  once 
splendid  capital. 

Our  traveler's  stay  in  Moscow  was  brief,  and  a  day  or  two  after  leaving 
this  fantastic  city,  he  was  in  the  center  of  Russia  proper,  where  villages 
abounded,  and  the  country  was  all  cultivated.  This  region,  called  Great 
Russia,  contains  several  provinces,  and  in  point  of  wealth  and  industry  is  the 
heart  of  the  Empire.  It  is  inhabited  by  the  Great  Russians.  The  Russians  ' 
are  formed  of  many  races,  of  which  the  Great  Russians  comprise  four-fifths 
of  the  population  of  the  empire,  and  his  rapacity  and  cunning  will  enable 
him  finally  to  absorb  all  the  other  races  ;  he  is  avaricious,  sensual,  dull,  ob- 
stinate, and  of  great  powers  of  endurance.  Generally  he  has  red  or  yellow- 
ish hair,  coarse  features,  vile  low  forehead,  and  an  ill  shaped  figure.  His 
generative  power  is  remarkable  ;  and  in  central  Russia  the  increase  of  popu- 
lation exceeds  all  former  precedent  in  Europe. 

In  Great  Russia,  prior  to  the  abolition  of  serfdom,  a  few  years  since,  by 
the  Emperor  Alexander,  the  value  of  the  estates  was  owing,  principally  to 
the  number  of  serfs,  some  of  which  were  so  vast  as  to  contain  one  hundred 
thousand  souls.  Legally  the  serf  had  certain  privileges,  and  could  not  be 
sold  except  with  the  estate ;  but  the  proprietor  treated  him  pretty  much  as 
he  pleased,  and  sold  him  at  any  time  that  he  could  get  a  good  price. 

The  following  is  a  description  of  serf  life,  written  previous  to  the  aboli- 
tion of  serfdom  : 

"  Like  the  American  slave,  he  works  with  apathy,  and  just  as  commanded. 
He  can  become  a  musician  or  a  mechanic  with  great  facility,  but  never  at- 
tains more  than  mediocrity.  He  is  chary  of  his  strength,  and  frequently  are 
seen  a  hundred  serfs  hauling  by  a  line  a  stick  of  timber  that,  with  us,  would 
take  only  a  dozen  or  twenty  Irish  laborers.  Like  sailors  raising  freight  from 
the  hold  of  a  vessel,  they  pause  and  sing  for  a  few  seconds,  and  then  when 
the  chorus  is  struck,  all  give  "  the  long  pull,  the  strong  pull,  and  the  pull 
altogether."  The  peasants  live  in  small  collections  of  miserable  log-houses 
one  story  high,  scattered  on  the  estates.  All  their  furniture  consists  of  long 
wooden  benches,  a  few  stools,  a  table,  wooden  bowls,  plates,  and  spoons, 
earthenware  dishes,  spinning-wheels,  a  stove,  and  the  image  of  the  Virgin 
hung  in  a  corner.  The  family  sleep  in  a  single  room  ;  in  summer  on  benches, 
in  winter  on  the  stove.  The  peasants'  stove  is  similar  to  a  baker's  oven  with 
a  broad  flat  top,  and  is  constructed  of  brick  and  mortar.  Every  few  days 
they  luxuriate  in  a  vapor  bath  :  this  is  produced  by  pouring  water  on  the 
hot  stove,  until  the  apartment  is  all  one  dense  cloud  of  steam.  The  whole 
family,  who  strip  perfectly  naked,  are  quickly  covered  with  perspiration,  when 
they  turn  to,  and  in  frolicksome  glee,  rub  and  switch  each  other  with 
birch  twigs,  dash  pailfuls  of  cold  water  on  their  persons,  and  frequently  rush 


46  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

out  and  tumble  over  and  over  in  a  snow  bank.  It  is  the  great  luxury  of  the 
Russian,  high  and  low,  and  a  universal  "  cure  all."  Yet,  the  Russians  are 
extremely  filthy  ;  their  cabins  unventilated,  and  very  dirty.  In  the  country, 
sheepskin  is  the  costume  for  both  sexes.  Cloth  wrapped  about  the  legs  is  a 
substitute  for  stockings,  and  linden  bark  shoes  for  those  made  of  leather.  The 
neck  is  always  completely  naked,  open  to  the  cold,  while  the  head  and  ears 
are  buried  in  a  cap  ^f  yellow  wolf  skin  :  next  to  the  body  the  wool  of  the 
sheep  is  worn,  while  the  skin  is  on  the  outside,  and  coming  in  contact  with  all 
torts  of  things,  assumes  a  dirty  brown  hue.  Thus  accoutered,  with  the  face 
and  neck  buried  in  a  thick  coarse  beard,  the  Russian  resembles  a  bear.  He 
eats,  sleeps,  and  works  in  one  sheepskin  for  a  succession  of  years,  and  when 
we  add  that  this  abounds  with  vile  odors  and  vermin,  it  will  at  once  be  seen 
that  the  Russian  peasant  is  not  a  very  fascinating  object  to  a  fastidious  taste. 
Notwithstanding,  he  never  suffers  for  food,  habitation  or  clothing  ;  in  this  re- 
spect, having  the  advantage  of  thousands  in  more  civilized  countries.  The 
want  of  cleanliness  extends  even  to  the  higher  classes  ;  the  nobility  are  fre- 
quently disgustingly  filthy  about  their  persons,  and  their  magnificently-fur- 
nished chambers  are  often  alive  with  whole  legions  of  fleas,  bedbugs  and 
other  vermin,  though  it  would  be  unjust  not  to  acknowledge  the  numerous 
exceptions  to  this  general  rule. 

The  Great  Russian  peasant  is  represented  as  hospitable  and  pious  accord- 
ing to  his  ideas  of  religion.  Rarely  is  he  happy,  unless  drunk.  Then  his 
loud,  harsh,  quarrelsome  notes  give  place  to  low  sweet  accents  ;  he  covers 
his  wife  and  children  with  kisses,  hugs  them  with  delight,  and  turns  in  for  the 
night  the  most  amiable  of  beings.  He  awakes  in  the  morning  morose  and 
savage,  and  flogs  his  wife  with  demon-like  fury. 

It  is  the  policy  of  the  Emperor  to  consolidate  his  power  by  assimilating  all 
his  people  to  one  religion,  one  language,  and  one  set  of  customs.  In  Poland 
the  only  church  was  the  Romish,  and  the  Lutheran  that  of  Finland  and  the 
Baltic  provinces.  By  intimidation,  and  by  rewards,  all  those  people  are  com- 
pelled to  bow  to  the  Greek  altar.  The  Russian  creed  teaches  that  the  author- 
ity of  the  Czar  is  divine,  he  being  God's  earthly  representative,  and,  there- 
fore, to  thwart  his  will  is  to  incur  the  Divine  wrath  ;  this,  with  the  propaga- 
tion of  the  Russian  language  and  customs,  rapidly  changes  her  conquered 
tribes  to  the  Russian  type,  either  by  amalgamation,  or  by  their  rapidly- 
diminishing  numbers.  Some  of  these  people  still  maintain  their  Pagan  insti- 
tutions, but  strangely  blended  with  Mahometan  and  Christian  ceremonies. 

Formerly  the  Russians  converted  the  conquered  people  to  the  Greek  faith. 
by  surrounding  their  villages  with  Cossacks,  and  driving  them,  at  the  poim 
of  the  lance,  into  the  water  to  be  baptized  and  christianized.  Such  subju- 
gated tribes,  as  do  not  readily  amalgamate  with  the  Russians,  are  subject  to 
the  most  ruthless  oppression  from  the  petty  officials  of  the  government. 
Goaded  to  desperation  by  these  severities,  petty  insurrections  sometimes  occur, 
when  in  their  mad  vengeance,  they  often  set  fire  to  the  villages,  destroy  the 
crops,  and  riot  in  heedless  despair,  until  the  Cossacks  arrive,  when  exile  and 
thfc  knout  are  inflicted  without  mercy  upon  the  guilty  or  suspected.  The  pun- 
ishment of  the  knout  is  graduated  to  the  offense.  If  slight,  the  adroit  operator 
5 


COCHEANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY.  47 

will  but  cut  out  strips  of  flesh  from  the  back  ;  if  heavy,  he  will  tear  out  the 
intestines,  when  the  unhappy  victim  sinks  and  dies.  In  Russia  every  promi 
nent  criminal  is  condemned  to  die  by  this  awful  and  disgraceful  punishment 

On  the  death  of  the  Russian  peasant  the  priest  draws  up,  and  the  bishop  signs 
a  passport  to  heaven,  which  is  put  in  the  hands  of  the  corpse.  On  theii 
return  from  the  grave,  priests  and  friends  have  a  jollification  at  the  dwelling 
of  the  dead,  the  first  toast  being  "  to  the  happiness  of  the  soul  of  the  de 
parted,  for  he  was  a  good  fellow  and  loved  grog." 

Prominent  in  nearly  every  village  is  the  church,  which  is  usually  of  brick, 
painted  white  or  yellow,  inclosed  with  walls  and  surmounted  by  green  domes, 
and  a  tower  with  a  bell,  on  top  of  which  is  a  cross  above  a  crescent,  illustrating 
the  triumphs  of  Greek  Christians  over  the  Mahometans,  and  the  ambitious 
designs  of  the  Russians  upon  Turkey.  Over  the  door  of  the  church  is  a 
portrait  of  St.  Nicholas,  to  whom  the  people  bow  in  prayer  as  they  go  in. 
The  sanctuary,  which  is  concealed  by  a  screen,  is  ornamented  with  pictures 
of  the  saints.  There  is  a  sanctum  sanctorum  with  the  holy  table,  above 
which,  hung  in  a  canopy,  is  a  dove,  as  a  symbol  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  Open 
upon  the  table  is  the  cross  and  a  box  holding  the  holy  elements,  and  in  both 
sides  concealed  choristers  chant  and  repeat  the  prayers  of  the  Priests.  Be- 
fore images  of  the  Savior  and  the  Virgin,  candles  are  ever  burning.  The 
language  of  worship  is  the  old  Sclavonian,  which,  although  rarely  compre- 
hended, is  attentively  listened  to  ;  the  auditors  repeatedly  bowing  and  ex- 
claiming, "  God  have  mercy  upon  us."  Although  the  Russians  affect  not  to 
worship  images,  and  to  abhor  what  they  term,  "  the  idolatry  of  the  Roman 
Catholics,"  yet  in  all  their  houses  are  images  of  the  Virgin,  to  which  they 
pay  their  adorations.  Before  the  days  of  Peter  the  Great,  the  principal 
difference  between  the  Greek  church  and  that  of  Rome  consisted  in  the  be- 
lief that  the  Holy  Ghost  proceeded  from  the  Father  only,  instead  of  from  the 
Father  and  the  Son  conjointly.  Peter  the  Great  announced  himself  as  the 
Patriarch  of  all  the  Christians  in  his  empire,  and  in  connection  with  the  later 
monarchs  cunningly  framed  the  spiritual  so  as  to  obtain  all  the  temporal 
power,  and  so  enlarged  the  breach  between  the  two  churches  as  to  forever 
prevent  a  junction. 

Church  and  State  are  now  firmly  united  in  Russia  ;  the  Emperor  is  high- 
priest,  and  king,  and  is  invested  with  absolute  power  over  his  subjects,  alike 
in  spiritual  and  temporal  matters.  The  common  Russian  priest  is  destitute  of 
influence,  and  often  a  drunken  vagabond.  He  can  marry  but  once  ;  and  if 
so  unfortunate  as  to  lose  his  wife  is  ever  after  obliged  to  remain  a  widower 
and  dwell  in  a  monastery. 

The  Russians,  of  all  classes,  are  ridiculously  superstitious  and  wholly 
governed  by  their  religiv  s  emotions.  Their  many  observances  illustrate 
their  Asiatic  origin.  p  A„e  Russian,  like  the  Turk,  is  both  a  fa^lst  and  a  fa- 
natic, and  on  the  least  trifling  occasion  makes  the  most  profound  prostrations. 
As  he  enters  his  own  door,  before  he  eats,  when  he  coughs,  spits,  or  sneezes, 
or  does  other  ihings  indelicate  to  ears  polite,  of  which,  he  of  all  frail  mortals, 
is  most  certain  to  be  guilty;  he  is  instanter  exceedingly  devout — bows,  crosses 
himself  and  in  the  most  humiliating  tone  exclaims,  "  God  be  merciful  to  mo 


48  THROUGH   RUSSIA    AND   SIBERIA. 

a  sinner."  His  superstitions  thus  control  his  whole  life,  and  when  we  per- 
ceive that  the  Russian  autocrat  is  his  "  God  on  earth,"  the  tremendous  p^wer 
of  the  Czar  needs  no  further  illustration. 

Vladimir  was  the  first  considerable  town  Cochrane  entered  beyond  Mos- 
cow. He  says,  at  this  time,  "  my  way  of  life,  excited  an  interest  in  the 
peasantry  among  whom  I  passed,  several  of  them  dividing  their  meals  and 
sharing  their  fires  and  dwellings  with  me,  with  the  most  cordial  good-will. 
I  might  nevertheless  have  considered  myself  fortunate  if  I  could  have  reached 
Vladimir  with  only  a  sound  drubbing  instead  of  a  broken  head,  because  I 
could  not  ask  in  the  Russian  language  for  some  kuass  and  fire  to  light  my 
pipe.  To  prevent  the  recurrence  of  this  evil,  on  the  next  occasion  I  entered 
a  house  without  ceremony  and  helped  myself.  My  hostess,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  others  of  her  sex,  drove  me  out  at  the  end  of  broomsticks,  which 
were  not  spared  upon  my  back.  The  odds  were  fearfully  against  me  ;  I  was 
therefore  content  to  bear  my  punishment  without  resistance.  At  Vladimir  I 
inquired  the  character  of  my  persecutors,  and  learned  that  most  of  those  vil- 
lages are  inhabited  by  Raskolnicks  or  schismatics,  a  sect  broken  off  from  the 
Greek  Church  and  more  intolerant  than  even  the  Church  of  Rome.  They 
are  bound  by  the  rules  of  their  religion  to  deny  food,  fire,  and  water,  and 
every  assistance  to  all  who  are  not  of  their  own  persuasion  ;  and  are  even 
forbidden  to  hold  intercourse  with  them.  Notwithstanding  the  repulsiveness 
of  these  tenets  they  are  said  to  gain  many  thousand  proselytes  every  year. 
They  are  considered  good  agriculturists,  and  of  the  most  sober  and  industri- 
ous habits,  never  drinking  ardent  spirits  nor  using  tobacco.  Among  them- 
selves they  are  a  kind,  friendly  people,  and  excellent  husbands  and  fathers  ; 
but  toward  the  rest  of  the  world  are — what  I  too  certainly  experienced." 

At  the  town  of  Pagost,  where  he  arrived  half- famished  and  quite  fatigued, 
not  having  tasted  food  during  twenty-four  hours,  and  walked  forty  miles,  he 
considered  himself  fortunate  in  being  able  "to  put  up"  for  the  night  in  a 
cash.  "  Nor  did  I,"  says  he,  "  think  this  mode  of  passing  the  night  a  novel 
one.  Often,  very  often,  have  I,  in  the  fastnesses  of  Spain  and  Portugal, 
found  similar  lodgings.  Here  I  occupied  the  place  of  crockery,  there  that 
of  wine  ;  here  in  the  land  of  liberality,  there  in  that  of  nonentity."  In  this 
region  he  was  again  apprehended  for  smoking  in  the  streets  of  a  village  bear- 
ing the  euphonious  name  of  "  Selo-Bogorodskeye." 

Cochrane  was  now  in  the  richest  part  of  central  Russia.  As  he  advanced 
through  a  beautiful  undulating  country,  for  miles  and  miles  not  a  tree,  not  a 
hedge  appeared — all  was  a  boundless  ocean  of  wheat,  yellow  for  the  harvest, 
and  waving  and  nodding  in  golden-hued  splendor,  in  the  passing  zephyrs. 
This  was  the  province  of  New  Novgorod,  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
east  of  Moscow.  Its  vast  fertility,  as  a  wheat-producing  region,  has  proba- 
ably  no  equal  on  the  globe — it  is  wonderful ;  and  enough  is  raised  to  supply 
the  whole  of  southern  Europe,  in  case  of  a  famine.  Railways  will  fully  de- 
velop the  enormous  agricultural  capacities  of  the  empire.  The  town  of 
New  Novgorod,  which  Cochrane  next  entered,  contains  about  nine  thousand 
inhabitants  ;  but  this  small  population  is  greatly  enhanced  at  the  annual  fair, 
which  is  held  at  this  the  main  central  mart  of  the  empire,  when  two  hundred 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY  49 

thousand  people  of  many  nations  flock  thither  with  their  produce  and  nianu- 
factures.  A  late  American  traveler,  who  chanced  to  be  here  at  one  of  these 
annual  gatherings,  gives  a  glowing  description  : 

"  The  people  came,"  says  he,  "  from  Siberia,  and  the  frozen  seas  ; 
from  the  foot  of  the  Chinese  wall;  from  the  confines  of  Russia  ;  from  beyond 
the  Indus,  to  barter  with  men  from  the  West.  Apart  from  the  native  pro- 
ductions, nearly  every  article  of  foreign  growth  was  in  the  market.  There 
were  various  European  and  American  imports  from  the  tropics — the  hard- 
ware of  England,  Germany  and  Russia — the  cottons  of  America  and  the  Car- 
olinas  ;  the  silks  of  Persia  and  France  ;  the  damasks  and  velvets  of  Turkey  ; 
the  perfumes  and  spices  of  Arabia,  furs  from  Siberia,  rubies  and  turquoises 
from  Turkestan  ;  the  musk  of  Thibet ;  carpets  of  Heran,  silks  of  Mascara ; 
the  shawls  of  Cashmere  ;  jewels  and  fancy  articles  collected  from  the  East 
and  the  West,  and  a  great  multiplicity  of  articles  of  utility  or  ornament,  the 
enumeration  of  which  would  require  a  volume.  The  amount  of  sales  which 
take  place  at  this  great  gathering,  in  some  years,  exceeds  thirty  millions  of 
dollars.  In  the  most  distant  regions  of  Asia  the  policy  and  perseverance  of 
Russia  has  opened  an  immense  market  for  domestic  fabrics.  Caravans  of 
thirty  thousand  men  even,  not  unfrequently  leave  Orenburg  traverse  a  great 
extent  of  western  and  northern  Asia,  frequent  the  distant  fairs  of  Thibet, 
Yarkand  and  Bokara,  and  penetrate  to  the  remote  regions  of  northern  India. 
Thus  sustained  by  commercial  intercourse  and  secured  by  diplomatic  art, 
Russian  influence  in  the  East  is  vast  beyond  all  calculation,  and  is  constantly 
increasing  and  extending  from  tribe  to  tribe,  and  province  to  province. 

The  site  of  the  fair  was  the  river  flat  opposite  the  town.  There  were 
erected  houses  and  booths,  each  street  having  its  peculiar  and  separate  com- 
merce. The  animation  that  prevailed  and  the  innumerable  variety  of  people 
were  indescribable.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Russian  empire  alone,  are  com- 
posed of  about  eighty  different  nations.  With  many  of  these  various  nations 
from  the  West  were  represented  together  with  Greeks,  Arnraits  and  Alba- 
nians from  beyond  the  Black  sea;  Arminians,  Persians,  and  Arabs  from  beyond 
the  Caspian  ;  Servians,  Croatians  and  Wallachains,  from  beyond  the  Danube  ; 
Kirghises  and  Baschirs,  from  the  tribes  of  hunters  and  herdsmen  beyond  the 
Urals  ;  Buchanans  and  Kalmucks,  Chinese,  Turks  and  Tartars,  and  every 
variety  of  race  gave  to  the  place,  the  sounds  and  confusion  of  another  Babel. 

The  Tractirs,  continues  this  traveler,  or  eating-houses,  filled  to  over- 
flowing, furnished  the  fare  peculiar  to  almost  every  people.  The  cuisine  of 
the  East,  rivaled  that  of  the  West  in  variety  if  not  in  excellence.  Delicacies 
of  the  Parisian  restaurant ;  dainties  of  the  Persian  nabob  ;  the  tonsrue  of  the 
reindeer  from  Archangel  ;  grapes,  olives,  figs  and  melons  from  the  northern 
provinces  ;  delicious  sterlets  from  the  Volga,  and  sturgeon  from  the  Caspian 
were  in  great  demand,  in  equal  abundance.  Beside  these  daintu  s  there  was 
almost  every  kind  of  wine  and  liquors,  even  to  London  porter.  The  dissipa- 
tion and  extravagance  that  prevailed  exceeded  all  belief.  Numerous  were 
the  Persian  Ghebers,  or  worshipers  of  fire,  now  ardently  devoted  to  the 
wines  of  France  ;  numerous  the  Mahometans,  whose  eccentricities  of  con 
duct  set  at  defiance  the  grave  precepts  of  the  Koran  ;  numberless  the 
4 


50  THROUGH  RU&SIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

Russian  traders,  who,  since  the  late  fast,  had  already  regained  the  ruby  nose 
and  wonderful  rotundity  of  figure. 

Thousands  of  forlorn  women,  from  the  London  street-walker,  to  black-eyed 
damsels  who  hailed  from  the  Isle  of  Sappho,  had  wandered  hither,  and  the 
saloons  re-echoed  with  the  minstrelsy  of  every  land.  We  heard  voices  and 
harps  of  singing-girls  from  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  and  Danube  ;  we  were 
entertained  with  the  music  and  dance  of  a  party  of  Muscovites,  whose  per- 
formances reminded  us  of  the  exhibition  of  the  Choctaws  ;  and  we  witnessed 
the  singular  antics  of  a  troupe  of  dark  brown  gipsies.  The  latter  were  t*he 
far-famed  Tsigani,  the  wild  Bayaderes.  Their  women  are  very  beautiful  and 
some  of  them  have  intermarried  with  the  best  blood  of  the  empire.  Their 
supple  movements,  melodious  voices,  and  brilliant  eyes,  with  lids  and  lashes 
dyed  like  those  of  the  Egyptian  Almahs,  are  skillfully  employed  to  fascinate 
the  Russian  nobles.  A  famous  Russian  song,  "  Tene  par  verish,"  "  Believe 
not  thou  art  beloved,"  was  sung  by  the  gipsy  queen.  The  gipsy  dance, 
although  very  much  in  step  and  movement  like  what  they  call  at  Communi- 
paw,  "  a  regular  heel  and  toe,"  excels  it  much  in  quickness  and  animation, — 
the  male  performer  holding  himself  erect,  looking  daggers  and  unutterable 
things,  and  the  female  indulging  in  wanton  movements,  while  both  are  ex- 
horted "  to  put  it  down,"  by  a  wild  and  excited  chorus  of  the  gipsy  band. 

Under  the  guidance  of  our  epauleted  cicerone,  we  went  almost  every- 
where, and  wherever  we  went,  we  never  failed  to  produce  a  sensation  among 
the  Orientals,  who  had  never  seen  or  heard  before  of  the  Amerikanskoi.  A. 
troop  of  mounted  Cossacks,  with  lash,  lance  and  fierce  hurrah,  running  before 
the  carriage,  cleared  the  way,  and  ere  the  Captain  could  say  '  sesame/  every 
door  was  opened." 


CHAPTER  II. 

Cochrane  leaves  New  Novgorod— Voyage  on  the  Volga— Curious  Crafts— Songs  of  the 
Boatmen  —  Kazan  — Tartar  Customs  —  Siberia  described  —  Cochrane  enters  Siberia  — 
Tobolsk  —  Exiles  —  Enters  the  Chinese  borders  —  Banished  Mandarins—  Tomsk— Silver 
Mines — Irkutsk — Boat  Voyage  down  the  Lena — Yakouta  Hunters — Singular  Custom — 
Dreary  Journey  —  Incredible  Gluttony  —  Hardships — Desolate  Scene  —  Life  at  Nishney 
Kolymsk — Fair  with  the  Tchuktchi — Perilous  Journey — Okotsk — Kamtschatka — Dissolu- 
tion of  Airy  Phantoms — Marries — Beturn. 

At  New  Novgorod  Cochrane  changed  his  mode  of  traveling,  and  em- 
barked on  board  a  lio-hter  on  the  magnificent  Volga.  This  vessel  was  a  flat- 
bottomed  boat  of  250  tons,  and  in  her  took  passage  for  Kazan,  some  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  eastward,  near  the  Asiatic  frontier.  The  traveler  here 
sees  upon  this  stream  a  great  and  singular  variety  of  craft,  among  which  are 
large  clumsy  boats,  curiously  painted  and  carved  like  Chinese  junks,  with 
masts  painted  in*  stripes  like  a  barber's  pole,  and  an  image  of  St.  Nicholas 
conspicuously  placed  on  the  stern  of  each.  Some  of  them  are  of  a  thousand 
tons,  and  generally  provided  with  a  single  mast,  and  a  sail  of  prodigious  size, 
which  is  handled  with  surprising  facility.  The  boats  are  often  provided  with 
oars,  to  be  used  when  the  wind  is  unfavorable  or  dies  away.  The  oarsmen, 
heavy-bearded   savage -looking   fellows,  frequency  relieve   their   labors  by 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY  51 

songs,  which,  like  all  Russian  strains,  are  of  a  wild,  plaintive  character 
The  voyage  is  monotonous,  and  the  passenger  finds  little  else  to  do  but  U 
recline  at  ease  upon  his  mat  upon  deck,  lazily  smoke  his  pipe,  and  gaze  upon 
a  dreary  uninhabited  shore. 

In  a  few  days  Cochrane  reached  Kazan,  a  large  and  flourishing  town, 
inhabited  by  a  considerable  Tartar  population,  near  the  borders  of  Siberia. 
Having  overrun  all  of  Northern  Europe,  the  successors  of  Ghengis  Khan 
founded  at  Kazan  the  seat  of  their  Empire,  and  from  the  gorgeous  splendor 
of  their  tents  they  were  distinguished  as  "  the  Khan  of  the  Golden  Horde." 
Some  three  centuries  since  they  were  conquered  by  Ivan  the  Terrible  ;  their 
mosques  changed  to  Christian  temples,  their  chiefs  baptized  by  force,  and 
nothing  now  remains  to  evince  their  former  magnificence  and  splendor. 

Next  to  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow,  Kazan  is  the  largest  city  in  Russia, 
containing  fifty  thousand  inhabitants  ;  it  is  famous  for  its  soap  and  leather,  and 
is  the  principal  depot  of  the  trade  with  China  and  Siberia.  One  quarter  of 
its  population  are  Tartars,  who  reside  together  in  a  separate  part  of  the  city. 
They  live  in  neat,  comfortable  residences,  in  forcible  contrast  to  those  of  the 
Russians  ;  these  are  ornamented  by  fine  inclosed  gardens,  which,  with  their 
many-colored  flowers,  shrubbery  and  beautiful  ornamental  trees,  impart  to 
each  the  air  of  a  terrestrial  Paradise.  Our  traveler  was  much  pleased  with 
the  Tartars.  The  men  are  very  handsome,  with  athletic,  manly  figures,  fine 
eyes,  and  bright,  good-humored  faces.  The  females  are  beautiful,  and  attract 
attention  by  their  dark-brown  complexions,  large  lustrous  eyes,  and  jet-black 
hair,  which  falls  in  tresses  upon  their  naked  shoulders.  These  people  vastly 
surpass  the  Russians  in  industry,  generosity  and  intelligence  ;  and  are  far 
more  tolerant,  charitable  and  hospitable.  "  The  latter  find  it  impossible  to 
convert  them,  and  they  remain  firm  to  their  religion,  and  carefully  educate 
their  children  in  the  precepts  of  the  Koran.  Although  it  is  allowed,  they  sel- 
dom have  more  than  a  single  wife.  A  well  behaved  stranger,  no  matter 
what  be  his  faith,  will  have  a  kind  invitation  to  enter  the  dwelling  of  a  Tar- 
tar, where  he  will,  perhaps,  be  astonished  at  the  picture  of  domestic  felicity 
that  will  be  unfolded  to  his  vision.  Among  the  reminiscences  of  his  child- 
hood may  be  the  awful  story  of  old  Blue  Beard,  or  of  some  cruel  husband 
called  a  Turk,  or  he  may  have  grown  up  to  manhood,  with  ideas  of  the 
superior  social  and  moral  excellencies  of  the  Europeans.  With  all  this,  and 
particularly  after  what  he  has  seen  in  European  and  Christian  Russia,  he 
will  be  able  to  rectify  his  prejudices,  and  receive  better  impressions  of  oriental 
life  by  witnessing  the  natural  tone  of  refinement,  temperance  and  chastity 
that  prevail  in  the  patriarchal  households  of  the  semi-Asiatic  population  of 
Kazan." 

Cochrane,  beyond  Kazan,  often  passed  through  the  villages  of  the  Tartars, 
and  was  always  received  at  their  houses  with  a  hearty  welcome.  He  says, 
in  speaking  of  these  cases,  that  he  gladly  partook  of  their  homely  fare. 
"  When  I  had  it,"  says  he,  "  I  always  treated  their  wives  with  tea  :  they, 
however,  with  the  usual  deference  of  Mahometan  females,  respect  the  pre- 
sence, not  only  of  their  husbands,  but  of  any  other  male,  too  much  to  partake 
of  it  before  them  without  their  previous  consent.     These  Tartars  are  a  most 


52  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

obliging  and  hospitable  race,  and  hardly  ever  go  beyond  the  village  wLich 
borders  on  their  own.  They  have  become  excellent  agriculturists,  and  the 
women  employ  themselves  in  weaving  a  strong  sort  of  carpeting,  which  they 
make  into  counterpanes,  bed-blankets  and  carpets.  Their  dwellings  are  clean 
and  neat  ;  they  have  neither  chairs  nor  stools,  and  live  principally  upon  Lorse 
flesh."  As  Cochrane  was  now  nearing  the  Siberian  boundary,  we  pause  to 
give  some  description  of  that  vast  and  comparatively  unknown  land,  in  which 
he  so  extensively  traveled, 

Siberia  is  the  general  name  for  the  vast  region  owned  by  Russia,  occupying 
all  the  northern  parts  of  Asia,  and  extending  from  the  Ural  mountains  on  the 
west,  to  the  Pacific  on  the  east ;  and  bounded,  on  the  north,  by  the  frozen 
ocean.  The  original  Siberia  was  a  small  khanate,  founded  by  the  Tartars, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Irtish  and  the  Obi,  and  was  so  named,  from  "  Siber,"  its 
capital.  The  khanate  was  invaded  and  conquered  by  Don  Cossacks,  in  the 
sixteenth  century.  As  the  Russian  conquests  and  discoveries  gradually  ex- 
tended eastward,  the  designation,  Siberia,  eventually  became  attached  to  an 
immense  district  of  country. 

Siberia  is  mostly  a  vast  plain  ;  the  cold,  in  the  northern  part,  is  keener  and 
more  constant  than  in  Lapland.  The  winter  lasts  for  nine  or  ten  months. 
The  summer  heats  are  short,  but  sudden  and  powerful,  and  the  growth  of 
vegetables  aimost  perceptible.  The  climate,  except  the  excessive  cold,  is,  on 
the  whole,  favorable  to  man. 

Siberia  is  noted  for  its  mineral  wealth  ;  gold,  silver,  platina,  copper,  and 
iron,  being  of  late  years,  produced  in  enormous  quantities.  The  grand 
mining  districts  are  on  its  eastern  border,  in  the  Oural  mountains  ;  the  prin- 
cipal gold  mines,  are  those  of  Beresov.  Through  its  enormous  mineral 
wealth,  Siberia  may  eventually  become  one  of  the  most  powerful  and  wealthy 
nations  in  the  world. 

The  Russians  are,  of  course,  the  dominant  people  ;  but  they,  with  the 
Cossacks  and  other  colonists  from  Europe,  inhabit  chiefly  the  towns  and 
military  stations.  Some  of  them  are  the  posterity  of  the  soldiers,  who  con- 
quered the  country,  others  are  exiles,  and  their  descendants — still  others  are 
adventurers,  peasant  deserters,  and  broken  merchants,  who  have  wandered 
thither  to  endeavor  to  mend  their  ruined  fortunes.  Siberia  holds  out  great 
inducements  to  enterprise,  and  she  is  gradually  improving  in  civilization. 

The  country,  although  comprising  fully  one-eighth  of  the  area  of  the 
known  world,  is  so  thinly  settled,  as  to  possess  a  population  of  less  than 
four  millions,  or  about  one  person  to  a  single  square  mile.  The  Rus- 
sians form  but  a  small  part  of  its  inhabitants.  Numerous  Tartar  colonists 
occupy  the  southern  part  of  the  government  of  Tobolsk,  and  immense  hordes 
of  savage  tribes,  under  different  names,  inhabit  the  full  extent  of  the  country. 
Almost  every  nation  of  Asia,  has  representatives  in  Siberia  ;  and  in  its  several 
towns  are  found,  Armenians,  Chinese,  Jews,  etc.,  while  the  Tongooses,  Finns, 
Samoides,  Yakuts,  Tschutschi,  Koriaks,  Bashkirs,  etc.,  form  the  principal 
tribes.  The  customs  and  religion  of  these  different  people,  partake  of  almost 
every  shade  and  creed  in  the  known  world,  and  they  are,  as  a  whole,  a  sin- 
gular commixture  of  civilization  and   barbarism.     Beside  the  agricultural 


COCHRAN  E'S    PEDESTRIAN   JOURNEY  53 

labors  which  are  carried  on  in  places  suitable  for  the  production  of  grain, 
with  the  hunting  and  fishing,  and  rearing  of  horses  and  cattle,  that  form  the 
chief  occupation  of  the  native  tribes,  the  industry  of  the  Russian  settlers  is 
chiefly  directed  to  the  working  of  the  mines,  and  the  manufacturing  of  iron 
and  copper,  and  utensils  of  these  metals,  leather,  shagreen,  carpets,  arms, 
glass,  etc.  Many  of  the  manufacturers  have  sent  their  serfs  into  Western 
Europe,  to  study  various  branches  of  the  arts,  and  these  returning,  have 
established  schools  in  the  towns,  for  the  benefit  of  their  brethren. 

The  trade  of  Siberia  with  foreign  nations,  is  very  extensive  and  profitable. 
Tobolsk  is  the  center  of  the  greatest  amount  of  commerce.  The  produce  of 
the  mines,  fisheries,  and  hunting  expeditions,  are  here  met  with,  and 
exchanged  for  European  and  Chinese  goods,  and  manufactured  articles. 
Annual  fairs  are  held  at  various  points,  and  some  of  the  traders  come  in 
caravans  from  a  distance  of  thousands  of  miles. 

Siberia  is  divided  into  seven  great  governments,  Tobolsk  being  the  most 
western,  and  Kamtschatka  the  most  eastern.  A  governor-general,  is  the 
chief  executive  officer.  The  town  of  Tobolsk,  situated  on  the  Irtish,  was 
formerly  the  capital  of  all  Siberia.  Excepting  two  churches  and  the  gover- 
nor's house,  it  is  built  of  wood.  Many  institutions,  similar  to  those  of  St. 
Petersburg,  have  been  introduced ;  literature,  science,  and  polite  amusement, 
have  made  considerable  progress  among  the  people.  Irkutsk,  on  the  lefi 
bank  of  the  Anjara,  is  the  chief  town  in  eastern  Siberia,  and  the  most  elegant 
in  the  country  ;  its  principal  inhabitants  are  merchants,  and  the  civil  and 
military  officers  of  the  government.  Yakutsk,  on  the  Lena,  is  the  great  seat 
of  the  fur  trade,  and  of  commerce  with  the  native  tribes.  Siberia  is  well 
watered  by  numerous  great  rivers,  which  unitedly,  form  many  thousand 
miles  of  internal  navigation. 

Our  traveler,  in  a  few  days'  journey  beyond  Kazan,  reached  the  famous 
Ur.il  mountains,  the  dividing  line  of  the  two  continents.  He  says,  "I  gently 
ascended  a  considerable  elevation  into  the  bosom  of  the  Ural  mountains, 
where  not  a  vestige  of  cultivation  exists  beside  young  firs  and  birch  :  the  air 
was  exceedingly  cold  on  the  summit.  At  noon  I  stopped  at  the  last  Euro- 
pean residence,  where  I  dined.  The  good  people  had  determined  that  I 
should  not  leave  this  quarter  of  the  globe  with  any  trace  of  dissatisfaction, 
as  young  children  continually  presented  me  with  wild  strawberries  and  cream, 
which  it  is  the  custom,  at  this  season,  for  these  poor  people  to  offer  to  the  tra- 
veler. I  received  the  present,  standing  with  one  foot  in  Asia  and  the  othei 
in  Europe,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  lofty  mountains,  covered,  however,  with 
nothing  but  biushwood. 

"Early  the  ensuing  morning  I  reached  Ekatherinebourg,  having  in  safety 
passed  the  mighty  barrier  which  separates  Europe  from  Asia.  The  ascent 
and  descent  are  so  nearly  imperceptible,  that  were  it  not  for  the  precipitous 
banks  everywhere  to  be  seen,  the  traveler  would  hardly  suppose  he  had 
crossed  a  range  of  hills.  As  far  as  this  frontier  town  of  Siberia,  I  had  tra- 
veled through  one  continued  forest  of  pine  trees,  and  for  twenty  miles  nothing 
met  the  eye  but  fir-wood.  On  reaching  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Ural  chain, 
I  could  not  help  remarking  that  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  villages  were  much 


54  THROUGH   RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

more  civil,  more  hospitable,  and  more  cleanly  dressed  ;  and  in  no  one  in- 
stance would  they  accept  money  for  the  food  I  had  occasion  to  procure.  I 
never  entered  a  cottage  but  shtshee  —  a  cabbage  soup — with  meat,  bread,  and 
mi] k  were  immediately  placed  before  me  unasked;  nor  could  any  entreaty 
of  mine  induce  them  to  receive  a  higher  reward  than  a  pipe  of  tobacco  or  a 
glass  of  vodka  (whisky).  In  short,  to  prevent  uselessly  troubling  the  inhabi- 
tants, I  was  obliged  to  consign  my  nearly  exhausted  purse  to  the  care  of  my 
knapsack,  renouncing  the  unhackneyed  and  unsocial  custom  of  paying  for 
food." 

Ekatherinebourg  is  the  key  to  Siberia,  and  a  large,  well-built  city.  In  its 
vicinity  are  numerous  magnificent  iron  and  copper  founderies,  and  the  river 
Iset,  upon  which  it  stands,  is  here  dammed  up  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  lake  for 
the  washing  of  the  sand,  which  produces  gold.  Six  thousand  serfs,  or  slaves, 
were  then  employed  in  washing  the  sand  ;  but  the  results  were  so  meager 
that  the  government  cleared  annually,  over  the  cost  of  their  support,  only  the 
average  value  of  about  four  dollars  on  the  labor  of  each  individual. 

After  quitting  Ekatherinebourg,  the  next  point  of  note  reached  was 
Tobolsk.  This  town,  once  the  capital  of  all  Siberia,  then  contained  20,000 
people,  composed  of  Russians,  Tartars,  and  Bucharians.  A  considerable 
trade  is  carried  on  with  China  from  this,  the  great  mart  of  all  central  and 
western  Siberia.  Tobolsk  is  a  place  of  exile  for  political  offenders  only. 
The  greater  part  of  these  are  officers,  who,  says  our  traveler,  "have  the  pri- 
vilege of  appearing  in  public  without  the  loss  of  either  rank,  fortune,  or  even 
character,"  and  as  these  are  generally  persons  of  mind,  the  society  of  Tobolsk 
is  good,  and  to  a  considerable  degree  civilized. 

Those  exiled  for  criminal  offenses  are  generally  condemned  to  labor  in  the 
mines  of  Nertchinsk,  in  eastern  Siberia,  on  the  borders  of  China,  which  our 
traveler,  at  a  later  period,  visited.  This  place  reminded  him  forcibly  of  those 
pathetic  descriptions  of  the  mines  of  Siberia  drawn  by  writers  of  romance, 
for  there  all  these  descriptions  seemed  verified,  and  his  feelings  were  har- 
rowed at  the  cruelties  of  those  in  charge  of  the  unfortunate  criminals.  The 
haggard,  worn-down,  and  half-starved  appearance  of  these  poor,  wretched 
victims,  he  says,  it  is  impossible  to  conceive  of.  If  any  of  them  happened  to 
escape  from  the  miseries  by  which  they  were  surrounded,  they  were  hunted 
and  shot  down  like  wild  beasts  by  the  half-savage  people  of  the  neighboring 
districts. 

From  the  reign  of  Peter  the  Great  to  the  present  time,  exile  to  Siberia,  for 
political  offenses,  has  been  of  constant  recurrence,  and  most  of  the  romance 
of  Russian  history  is  connected  with  the  frozen  steppes  of  that  country.  A 
regular  system  of  convict  colonization  was  commenced  in  1754,  during  the 
reign  of  Elizabeth,  who  was  too  tender-hearted  to  sign  the  death-warrant  of 
even  the  most  atrocious  criminal,  though  she  tolerated  and  countenanced  the 
most  barbarous  cruelties.  The  knout,  in  addition  to  hard  labor  for  life  in 
the  mines,  is  now  the  general  substitute  in  Russia  for  capilal  punishment. 
In  cases  where  the  criminals  are  banished  for  life,  the  sentence  is  often  ren- 
dered more  rigorous  by  condemnation  to  civil  death,  in  which  cases  alone,  the 
families  of  the  convicts  are  not  allowed  to  follow  them  into  ezile,  and  they 
are  neither  permitted  to  write  nor  to  receive  letters. 


COCHRANE'S    PEDESTRIAN   JOURNEY  55 

Kazan  is  usually  the  starting  point  of  the  detachments  of  convicts  am' 
exiles,  who  periodically  leave  Russia  for  Siberia  to  the  number  of  many 
thousands.  The  convicts  travel  on  foot,  all  being  on  starting  supplied  wit], 
clothing  at  the  public  expense.  The  men  walk  in  pairs,  and  when  passing 
through  towns,  have  fetters  attached  to  their  ankles  to  prevent  their  escap- 
ing. To  each  detachment  are  generally  attached  some  wagons  or  sledges 
for  the  women,  the  aged,  and  the  infirm  ;  and  these  usually  lead  the  van,  the 
younger  men  following,  and  the  whole  party,  commonly  numbering  fifty  to 
sixty  individuals,  being  escorted  from  station  to  station  by  a  detachment  of 
Cossacks  stationed  in  villages.  Many  tales  are  told  of  the  barbarous  treat- 
ment to  which  the  exiles  are  subjugated  during  their  passage  to  their  various 
places  of  destination  by  the  brutality  of  the  escort. 

Among  these  tales  is  an  affecting  story  related  by  a  recent  traveler,  who 
was  at  the  time  in  a  little  Russian  hamlet  near  Kazan,  when  about  one  hun- 
dred prisoners,  men  and  women,  passed  on  their  way,  as  exiles,  to  Siberia- 
Chained  in  couples,  attired  in  coarse  gray  coats,  some  of  them  barefooted, 
and  all  with  heavy  weights  fastened  to  their  limbs,  they  moved  slowly,  pain- 
fully along,  the  whole  wretched  procession  being  guarded  by  a  few  soldiers 
and  a  troop  of  noisy  Cossacks,  with  their  long  pikes  resting  in  their  right  stir- 
rups, guns  slung  upon  their  backs,  and  heavy  whips  hanging  from  their  left 
wrists.  Some  of  the  prisoners  were  persons  of  decided  superiority.  "  Oneot 
these,"  says  he,  "a  tall  and  commanding  figure,  and  a  noble  butemaciated  coun- 
tenance, gazed  earnestly,  as  if  he  would  have  said,  '  Oh,  that  I  might  tell  you 
the  secret  of  my  being  here.'  Another,  who  looked  at  us  imploringly,  and 
said  in  French,  ■  Do  you  go  to  Moscow  ?'  was  struck  in  the  face  by  a  soldier, 
and  ordered  to  be  quiet.  My  God  !  was  there  no  rescue,  no  help,  no  hope  at 
hand  !  Excited  almost  beyond  control  for  those  exiles,  in  whose  expression 
innocence  was  written,  we  watched  the  miserable  band  upon  its  dreary  jour- 
ney, until  the  rattling  of  their  irons  no  longer  grated  upon  the  heart.  " 

Many  of  those  in  Siberia  never  learn  why  they  are  exiled.  Many  are 
doubtless  sent  through  error,  being  mistaken  for  others,  who  thus  escape 
punishment.  Such  was  the  case  with  M.  Michelvosky,  a  notary  of  Wilna, 
who  was  seized  and  taken  to  Siberia,  instead  of  a  namesake  who  resided  in 
Warsaw,  and  was  engaged  in  the  last  insurrection  of  the  Poles. 

A  minister  was  commanded  by  the  Emperor  Paul  to  punish  and  exile  an 
offender  ;  but  unable  to  find  him  he  seized  in  his  place  a  newly-arrived  Ger- 
man, tore  out  his  nostrils,  and  sent  him  to  Siberia,  where  he  remained  until 
the  Emperor  Alexander  ascended  the  throne,  who  returned  him  to  St.  Peters- 
burg and  gave  him  the  monopoly  of  importing  lemons. 

The  river  Irtish  is  the  Styx  of  the  Siberian  Hades  ;  from  the  moment  the 
exiles  cross  the  ferry  in  the  neighborhood  of  Tobolsk,  the  extinction  of  their 
political  life  commences.  Here  they  lose  the  name  by  which  until  then  they 
have  been  known  to  the  world,  and  henceforward  are  designated  simply  by 
a  number,  and  any  change  of  the  latter  is  punished  with  five  years'  compul- 
sory labor  over  and  above  the  original  sentence.  At  Tobolsk  sits  the  board 
which  decides  the  final  destination  of  each  of  the  unfortunate  eyiles. 


56  THROUGH   RUSSIA   AND    SIBERIA. 

The  situation  of  Tobolsk,  at  the  juncture  of  the  noble  Irtish  and  Tobol,  is 
romantic.  The  climate  is  so  cold  that,  except  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
province  of  which  it  is  the  capital,  no  grain  is  produced,  and  all  the  wood  is 
of  stunted  growth.  Fishing  is  an  active  pursuit  at  Tobolsk,  which,  beside 
providing  for  the  maintenance  of  those  engaged  in  it,  yields  a  very  remu- 
nerating profit.  The  embroidery  of  muslin  is  there  also  brought  to  consider- 
able perfection  ;  it  was  introduced  originally  by  the  daughters  of  exiled 
officers,  who  had  felt  the  deprivation  of  their  former  means  of  subsistence. 

With  a  grateful  remembrance  of  the  kindness  he  had  experienced  at 
Tobolsk,  Cochrane  bade  adieu  to  the  city  and  traveled  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion toward  the  Chinese  frontier,  up  the  valley  of  the  Irtish.  He  passed 
through  many  towns  which  were  usually  garrisoned  by  Russian  troops,  and 
was  entertained  at  several  of  the  villages  of  the  Tartars  of  the  Bashkir  race : 
the  perfect  neatness  of  their  houses  —  whose  white  plastered  chimneys  and 
ovens  reminded  him  a  little  of  his  own  country  —  their  civility  and  kindness, 
and  the  well-cultivated  appearance  of  their  corn  and  pasture  lands  were  ex- 
tremely gratifying  to  him.  He  slept  contentedly  on  their  clean  beds,  and 
partook,  with  keen  relish,  of  their  milk  and  cakes. 

After  a  journey  of  near  a  thousand  miles  from  Tobolsk,  he  left  the  great 
Siberian  plains  and  arrived  among  the  romantic  mountain  lands  on  the  Chi- 
nese frontier  :  at  a  village  in  their  midst,  among  other  similar  luxuries,  he 
was  treated  with  wild  currants,  melons,  cassia,  "milk  and  honey :" 
"Surely,"  said  he,  in  speaking  of  the  fertility,  beauty,  and  magnificence  of 
the  country,  "this  is  the  natural  place  for  the  habitation  of  man."  From 
motives  of  curiosity  he  diverged  a  few  miles  from  his  path  to  visit  Mai  ay  a- 
Narymka,  the  last  Russian  station  on  the  frontier.  An  officer  and  a  few  men 
are  all  that  are  left  to  mark  the  boundaries  of  the  two  mighty  empires  of 
Russia  and  China.  "  I  forded,"  says  he,  "  the  little  stream  which  forms  the 
actual  limit,  and  seating  myself  on  a  stone  on  the  left  bank,  was  soon  lost  in 
a  reverie.  It  was  about  midnight ;  the  moon,  apparently  full,  was  near  her 
meridian,  and  seemed  to  encourage  a  pensive  inclination.  What  can  surpass 
that  scene  I  know  not.  Some  of  the  loftiest  granite  mountains,  spreading  in 
various  directions,  inclosing  some  of  the  most  luxuriant  valleys  in  the  world ; 
yet  all  deserted  ; — all  this  fair  and  fertile  tract  abandoned  to  wild  beasts, 
merely  to  constitute  a  neutral  territory  ! 

"  To  the  first  Chinese  settlement  it  is  eighty  miles :  formerly  their 
advanced  post  was  where  I  am  writing  this  account,  and  I  felt  something 
like  pleasure  to  find  myself  within  the  celestial  empire.  Their  guard,  it 
seems,  was  removed  by  the  court  of  Pekin  from  jealousy  of  her  subjects 
holding  any  converse  with  foreigners.  The  commanding  officer  is  a  banished 
mandarin,  who  is  compelled  to  live  like  his  soldiers,  being  denied  both  money 
and  assistance  from  his  friends ;  but  as  the  post  is  generally  occupied  by 
a  person  who  has  been  condemned  to  death  for  some  great  crime,  he  is  fain 
to  accept  his  pardon  on  condition  of  serving  ten  years  as  chief  of  the  guard. 
They  had,  as  I  was  informed,  a  neat  village,  with  abundance  of  meat  and 
vegetables,  beside  wild  fruits." 

Cochrane's  route  was  again   northward  through  Barnaoule  to  Tomsk. 


COCHRANE'S    PEDESTRIAN   JOURNEY  57 

Within  the  limits  of  the  government  of  Kolyvan,  of  which  Barnaoule  is  tht1 
capital,  a  very  large  number  of  silver  mines  were  being  worked.  All  the 
peasant  population,  numbering  82,000,  were  engaged,  two-thirds  of  their 
time,  in  the  mines.  The  plan  in  operation  was  for  each  peasant  to  work 
twelve  hours  each  night  the  first  week  ;  twelve  hours  each  day  the  second 
week,  and  the  third  week  to  devote  to  the  cultivation  of  his  land.  The  con- 
dition of  these  peasants,  or  slaves  of  the  crown,  is  far  from  being  wretched. 
Their  lands  are  very  fertile,  and  with  due  industry  and  good  management, 
many  of  them  are  able  to  save  money. 

At  Barnaoule  our  traveler  met  with  Speranski,  the  governor-general  of 
Siberia,  who  treated  him  with  the  greatest  kindness,  and  presented  him  an 
open  order,  amounting  almost  to  a  command,  addressed  to  all  the  officers  of 
government  in  the  country,  to  give  him  every  protection  and  aid  within  their 
power  to  advance  him  on  his  journey.  After  reaching  Tomsk,  Cochrane's 
course  was  again  eastward  :  after  a  journey  of  many  days  through  a  tolera- 
bly well  settled  country,  he  reached  Irkutsk,  now  the  chief  city  of  Siberia. 
The  town  then  had  some  15,000  inhabitants,  with  a  dozen  churches,  and 
schools  on  the  Lancasterian  plan.  The  society  of  this  place,  and  many  other 
parts  of  Siberia,  he  found  much  benefited  by  the  Swedes,  and  French,  and 
other  exiles,  many  of  whom  possess  first-rate  talents.  These  expatriated  in- 
structors have  tended  to  improve  and  civilize  Siberia  in  a  ratio  surpassing 
that  of  central  Russia. 

After  a  week's  enjoyment  of  the  hospitalities  of  the  good  people  of  Irkutsk, 
he  set  out  with  a  Cossack  attendant  down  toward  the  valley  of  the  Lena  :  at 
Vercholensk  on  the  Lena,  he  procured  a  canoe  and  a  couple  of  hands,  who, 
with  the  Cossack,  assisted  in  paddling  the  canoe,  which  went  down  stream 
at  the  rate  of  a  hundred  miles  per  day.  The  banks  of  the  river  he  found 
lofty  and  well  wooded,  and  the  scenery  pleasant.  Numerous  villages,  with 
rye-fields,  were  passed  scattered  among  the  valleys,  each  invariably  attended 
by  its  own  little  stream.  The  weather  was  cold,  the  scenery  always  moun- 
tainous ;  numerous  islands  were  scattered  about  the  river ;  wherever  he 
stopped,  he  fared  well  from  the  Russian  colonists,  as  well  as  from  the  fore- 
sight of  his  friends  at  Irkutsk,  who  had  provided  him  plentifully  with 
provisions  for  his  voyage.  "A  traveler  in  Russia,"  says  he,  "whether  native 
or  foreigner,  on  taking  leave  of  his  friends  previous  to  his  departure,  uni- 
formly finds  at  his  lodgings  all  the  provisions  required  for  his  journey,  with 
another  lodging  pointed  out  at  some  friend's  upon  his  route,  for  as  long  as  he 
pleases.  Indeed,  I  have  no  doubt,  that  a  man  may  travel  through  the  Rus- 
sian empire,  so  long  as  his  conduct  is  becoming,  without  wanting  anything — 
not  even  horses  and  money ;  excepting  only  in  the  civilized  parts,  between  the 
capitals,  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow." 

Cochrane  continued  down  the  valley  of  the  Lena  for  about  2000  miles 
on  its  course  to  the  frozen  ocean.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  route,  the  river 
became  so  much  filled  with  floating  ice  that  he  was  compelled  to  again  take 
the  land,  and  in  that  manner  reached  the  northern  town  of  Yakutsk,  on  the 
Lena.  Half  a  dozen  churches,  the  remains  of  an  old  fortress,  and  some 
tolerable   buildings  give   it  some   decency   of  appearance ;    yet   Cochrane 


58  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SILERIA. 

thought  it  one  of  the  most  dreary-looking  places  he  had  ever  seen,  although 
he  was  put  in  the  enjoyment  of  every  comfort. 

It  is  a  great  commercial  center :  from  the  Anubra  to  Behring's  Straits, 
from  the  banks  of  the  Frozen  Sea  to  Mount  Aldana ;  from  Okotskj  and  even 
Kamtschatka,  goods  are  brought  hither,  consisting  chiefly  of  furs,  seals'  teeth, 
and  mammoths'  tusks,  which  afford  excellent  ivory,  all  of  which  are  sold  in 
the  summer  to  itinerant  traders,  who  give  in  return  tobacco,  corn  and  flour, 
tea,  sugar,  liquors,  Chinese  silks  and  cottons,  cloth,  iron  and  copper  utensils, 
and  glass.  The  inhabitants  of  the  town  are  chiefly  traders,  who  buy  of  the 
Yakut  hunters  their  furs  at  a  cheap  rate,  and  then  sell  them  to  the  agents, 
who  come  from  Russia  in  search  of  them.  These  traders  are  the  Russian 
inhabitants,  the  native  Yakuti  being  the  only  artisans.  In  this  distant 
colony  of  the  human  race,  the  new-born  child  of  the  Russian  is  given  to  a 
Yakut  woman  to  nurse,  and  when  old  enough,  learns  to  read  and  write, 
after  which  he  is  brought  up  to  the  fur-trade,  and  his  education  is  finished. 

The  Yakuti,  who  inhabit  this  region,  are  rather  a  favorable  specimen  of 
the  savage.  The  Yakut,  since  his  connection  with  the  Russians,  has  become 
even  rich,  having  flocks  and  herds,  and  at  home  plenty  of  koumiss  *  to 
drink  and  horse-flesh  to  eat.  He  has  great  endurance  and  can  bear  tremen- 
dous cold.  He  travels  in  the  snow  without  tent  or  pelisse  :  on  reaching  the 
camp,  he  lies  down  on  the  snow,  with  his  saddle  for  a  pillow,  his  horse-cloth 
for  a  bed,  his  cloak  for  a  covering,  and  so  he  sleeps.  His  eyesight  is  keen, 
and  his  powers  of  both  eating  and  fasting  prodigious.  Like  the  red  Indian, 
he  recollects  every  bush,  every  stone,  every  hillock,  every  pond  necessary  to 
find  his  way,  and  never  loses  himself  however  great  the  distance  he  may 
have  to  travel. 

His  food  is  boiled  beef  and  horse-flesh,  cows'  and  mares'  milk.  But  his 
chief  delicacy  is  raw  and  melted  fat,  while  quantity  is  always  the  chief 
merit  of  a  repast.  He  likewise  mixes  a  mess  of  fish,  flour,  milk,  fat,  and  a 
kind  of  bark,  the  latter  to  increase  the  bulk.  Both  men  and  women  smoke 
inordinately,  swallowing  the  vapor  —  a  most  pernicious  and  terrible  habit. 
Brandy  is  their  most  precious  drink,  their  own  koumiss  having  not  sufficient 
strength  to  satisfy  them.  In  summer  they  wander  about  in  tents  collecting 
hay;  in  the  winter  they  dwell  in  the  yourte  or  hut,  which  is  a  wooden  frame 
of  beehive  shape,  covered  with  grass,  turf  and  clay,  with  windows  of  clear 
ice.  The  very  poor  dig  three  feet  below  the  soil ;  the  rich  have  a  wooden 
floor  level  with  the  adjacent  ground,  while  rude  benches  all  round  serve  as 
beds,  divided  one  from  the  other  by  partitions ;  the  fireplace  is  in  the  middle, 
inclined  toward  the  door. 

Cochrane  passed  nearly  the  whole  of  October  in  the  hospitable  and  com- 
fortable residence  of  the  governor  of  Yakutsk.  Every  evening  a  party  of  the 
natives,  male  and  female,  congregated  at  the  house,  where  tea  was  frequently 
passed  round.  Their  manner  of  using  sugar  with  tea  was  to  him  novel, 
although  after  the  fashion  of  the  Chinese.     He  thus  describes  it:  "Each 

*  Koumiss  is  a  kind  of  sour  milk — mare's  milk  being  preferred — which  has  undergone,  to 
a  certain  degree,  the  vinous,  or  wine-like,  fermentation.  A  subsof  uent  process  of  distilla- 
tion creates  a  sort  of  weak  brandy  from  it. 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY  59 

individual  takes  a  small  lump,  which  he  grates  between  his  teeth  in  such  a 
manner  as  only  to  consume  a  very  small  part  of  it;  and  thus,  although  the 
person  has  drunk  three  or  more  cups,  the  greater  portion  of  the  sugar 
remains,  and  being  placed  upon  the  inverted  cup,  finds  its  way  back  to  the 
suofar-dish  when  the  party  has  broken  up ;  so  that,  probably  at  the  feast  on 
the  following  day,  a  lady  or  gentleman  may  happen  to  get  his  old  friend  back 
again." 

The  next  great  point  in  Cochrane's  journey  was  Nishney  Kolymsk,  1 3G0 
miles  northeast  of  Yakutsk,  or  within  the  Arctic  zone.  This  distance  was 
to  be  traveled  over  in  the  winter  season  and  in  the  coldest  part  of  the 
north-east  of  Asia.  All  this  ho  heeded  not,  as  he  thought  himself  amply 
provided,  having  been  able  with  comfort  to  walk  about  the  streets  of  Yakutsk 
with  the  only  addition  to  summer  clothing  of  a  flannel  waistcoat,  when  the 
thermometer  was  20°  below  zero.  "  It  is  true,"  says  he,  the  "natives  of  the 
place  felt  surprised  and  pitied  my  forlorn  and  hopeless  situation,  not  seem- 
ing to  consider  that  when  the  mind  and  body  are  in  constant  motion,  the  ele- 
ments can  have  but  little  effect  upon  the  person.  I  feel  confident  that  most 
of  the  miseries  of  human  life  are  brought  on  by  a  want  of  a  spirit  of  perse- 
verance, of  patience  under  fatigue  and  privations,  and  a  resolute  determina- 
tion never  to  shrink  while  life  retains  a  spark.  Often  indeed  have  I  found 
myself  in  difficult  and  trying  circumstances  from  cold,  hunger,  or  fatigue, 
and  I  may  affirm  with  gratitude,  I  have  never  felt  happier  than  in  encounter- 
ing these  difficulties.  Thus  in  the  present  case,  I  had  no  overcoat,  no  knee- 
preservers,  blankets,  or  bed  ;  no  guard  for  my  ears  or  face  ;  in  short,  I 
discovered,  too  late,  I  was  not  properly  provided,  and  attributed  the  preserva- 
tion of  my  life  solely  to  the  strength  of  my  constitution,  which  I  have  never 
seen  equaled." 

Provided  with  a  Cossack  for  a  companion,  and  a  couple  of  sledges  drawn 
by  horses,  Cochrane  departed  from  Yakutsk  on  the  last  day  of  October. 
The  nights  were  at  times  passed  in  huts,  stationed  twenty-five  miles  apart  on 
the  road  for  the  use  of  travelers,  and  at  others  they  encamped  in  the  open 
air,  the  thermometer  often  being  some  30°  and  40°  below  zero.  On  these 
occasions  the  snow  was  first  cleared  away  to  the  depth  of  a  couple  of  feet  ; 
then  pine  branches  were  spread  for  a  bed  and  a  fire  made  in  the  form  of  a 
horse-shoe,  so  as  to  keep  all  parts  of  the  body  alike  warm,  and  thus  without 
any  other  covering  than  his  clothes,  our  traveler  was  enabled  to  sleep  in 
comfort,  notwithstanding  the  intense  cold  of  this  Arctic  climate. 

At  Tabalak,  about  250  miles  from  Yakutsk,  one  of  the  few  scattered  vil- 
lages in  this  desert  country,  he  witnessed  the  enormous  gluttony  of  a  Yakut 
child  some  five  years  of  age.  "  I  had  observed  the  child,"  says  he,  "  crawl- 
ing on  the  floor,  and  scraping  up  with  its  thumb  the  tallow-grease  which  fell 
from  a  lighted  candle,  and  I  inquired  in  surprise  whether  it  proceeded  fiom 
hunger  or  liking  of  the  fat.  I  was  told  from  neither,  but  simply  from  the 
habit  in  both  Yakuti  and  Tomjousi  of  eating  whenever  there  is  food,  and 
never  permitting  anything  that  can  be  eaten  to  be  lost.  I  gave  the  child  a 
candle  made  of  the  most  impure  tallow, — a  second, — and  a  third — and  all 
were  devoured  with  avidity.     The  steersman  then  gave  him  several  pounda 


60  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND  SIBERIA. 

of  sour  frozen  butter ;  this  also  he  immediately  consumed ;  lastly,  a  large 
piece  of  yellow  soap, — all  went  the  same  road  ;  but  as  I  was  now  convinced 
that  the  child  would  continue  to  gorge  as  long  as  it  could  receive  anything,  I 
begged  my  companion  to  desist  as  I  had  done. 

"As  to  the  statement  of  what  a  man  can  or  will  eat,  either  as  to  quality  or 
quantity,  I  am  afraid  it  would  be  quite  incredible  ;  in  fact,  there  is  nothing 
in  the  way  of  fish  or  meat,  from  whatever  animal,  however  putrid  or  un- 
wholesome, but  they  will  devour  with  impunity,  and  the  quantity  only  varies 
from  what  they  have,  to  what  they  can  get.  I  have  repeatedly  seen  a  Yakut 
or  a  Tongucse  devour  forty  pounds  of  meat  in  a  day.  The  effect  is  very 
observable  upon  them,  for  from  thin  and  meager-looking  men,  they  will  be- 
come perfectly  pot-bellied.  Their  stomachs  must  be  differently  formed  from 
ours,  or  it  would  be  impossible  for  them  to  drink  off  at  a  draught,  as  they 
really  do,  their  tea  and  soup  scalding  hot  (so  hot,  at  least,  that  a  European 
would  have  difficulty  in  even  sipping  at  it),  without  the  least  inconvenience. 
I  have  seen  three  of  these  gluttons  consume  a  reindeer  at  one  meal ;  nor  are 
they  nice  as  to  the  choice  of  parts  ;  nothing  being  lost,  not  even  the  contents 
of  the  bowels,  which,  with  the  aid  of  fat  and  blood,  are  converted  into  black 
puddings. 

"  For  an  instance  in  confirmation  of  this,  no  doubt,  extraordinary  state- 
ment, I  shall  refer  to  the  voyages  of  the  Russian  admiral  Saritcheff.  ■  No 
sooner,'  he  says,  ■  had  they  stopped  to  rest  or  spend  the  night,  than  they  had 
their  kettle  on  the  fire,  which  they  never  left  until  they  pursued  their  jour- 
ney, spending  the  intervals  for  rest  in  eating,  and  in  consequence  of  no  sleep, 
were  drowsy  all  the  next  day.  The  admiral  also  says,  '  That  such  extraor- 
dinary voracity  was  never  attended  with  any  ill  effects,  although  they  made 
a  practice  of  devouring,  at  one  meal,  what  would  have  killed  any  other  per- 
son. The  laborers/  the  admiral  says,  'had  an  allowance  of  four  poods,  or  one 
hundred  and  forty-four  English  pounds  of  fat,  and  seventy-two  pounds  of  rye 
flour,  yet  in  a  fortnight  they  complained  of  having  nothing  to  eat.  Not  cre- 
diting the  fact,  the  Yakuti  said  that  one  of  them  was  accustomed  to  consume 
at  home,  in  the  space  of  a  day,  or  twenty-four  hours,  the  hind-quarter  of  a 
large  ox,  twenty  pounds  of  fat,  and  a  proportionate  quantity  of  melted  butter  for 
his  drink.  The  appearance  of  the  man  not  justifying  the  assertion,  the  admi- 
ral had  a  mind  to  try  his  gormandizing  powers,  and  for  that  purpose  he  had 
a  thick  porridge  of  rice  boiled  down  with  three  pounds  of  butter,  weighing 
together  twenty-eight  pounds,  and  although  the  glutton  had  already 
breakfasted,  yet  did  he  sit  down  to  it  with  great  eagerness,  and  consumed 
the  whole  without  stirring  from  the  spot ;  and,  except  that  his  stomach  be- 
trayed more  than  ordinary  fullness,  he  showed  no  sign  of  inconvenience  or 
injury,  but  would  have  been  ready  to  renew  his  gluttony  the  following  day.' 
So  much  for  the  admiral,  on  the  truth  of  whose  account  I  place  perfect 
reliance." 

After  resting  two  days  at  Tabalak,  on  the  22d  of  November,  he  resumed 
his  journey.  "  The  first  night,"  says  he,  "  we  halted  on  the  banks  of  a 
small  lake,  where  some  fishermen  were  hauling  their  nets,  although  the  ice 
tfas  twenty  inches  deep  ;  of  course,  I  became  entitled  to  a  proportion  of  the 


COCHKANE'S  PEDESTRIAN"  JOURNEY  61 

fish  caught — to  insure  which,  I  invariably  partook  of  the  fatigue  :  let  who 
will  make  his  appearance,  of  whatever  tribe  or  religion,  in  Siberia,  he  will 
certainly  be  entitled  to  food,  if  he  partakes  in  the  labor  of  catching  it — I  do 
not  know  a  more  humane  custom.  The  plan  is  indeed,  ingenious,  and  proves 
that  'necessity  is  the  mother  of  invention.'  Having  fixed  upon  the  spot,  a 
large  hole  is  made  in  the  most  distant  part,  opposite  to  the  place  to  which  the 
fish  are  to  be  hauled,  and  then  holes  are  also  made  from  it  on  each  side  cir- 
cularly, toward  the  point  where  the  fish  are  to  be  caught :  the  distance  from 
hole  to  hole,  about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet ;  the  whole  of  the  net  is  then  let 
down  the  first  opening,  as  are  the  ropes  attached  to  the  hauling  of  it,  which 
ropes  are  fastened  to  a  long  pole,  which  under  the  ice,  conducts  the  rope? 
from  hole  to  hole.  Both  ends  are  taken  up  at  the  last  and  largest  opening 
and  the  net  is  thus  hauled  ;  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  fish  are  caught." 

Their  halting-place,  the  succeeding  night,  was  among  a  most  magnificent 
range  of  mountains,  with  lofty  projecting  bluffs  and  overhanging  precipices. 
The  three  following  days,  were  those  of  constant  labor;  their  route  lay 
over  the  surface  of  some  frozen  rivers,  where  they  were  obliged  frequently  to 
halt  and  clear  away  the  snow  with  their  spades,  to  enable  their  animals  to 
proceed  at  all ;  and  then  to  drag  their  baggage  after  them  ;  but  this  was  not 
all.  When  free  from  this  severe  labor,  the  ice  was  so  clear  and  slippery, 
that  with  all  the  assistance  they  could  give,  it  was  found  impossible  to  save 
their  poor  animals  from  dreadful  falls  and  heavy  strains  ;  and  they  constantly 
fell  groaning  under  their  loads. 

After  leaving  the  rivers,  they  struck  upon  an  immense  plain,  and  reached 
a  hut,  having  been  obliged  to  abandon  one  of  their  horses.  Cochrane  wa« 
now  suffering  from  blisters  on  his  feet,  occasioned  by  the  freezing  of  the  per- 
spiration. Evidence  was  shown  of  the  cold,  in  the  mountains  they  had 
passed  :  the  rocks  in  many  places,  were  split  asunder  by  its  intensity. 

As  familiar  illustrations  of  the  different  effects  of  cold,  at  the  various 
degrees  which  it  attains  in  Siberia,  we  here  digress,  and  quote  some  passages 
from  "  CottrelFs  Recollections  of  Siberia,"  giving  the  experiences  of  a  resi- 
dent, who  had  devoted  much  time  to  meteorological  observations.  At  39Q 
(of  Reaumur,  a  not  unusual  degree  of  cold,  even  at  Irkutsk),  the  breath  is 
heard  to  issue  from  the  mouth  with  a  sound  like  very  dry  hay,  when  crumpled 
in  the  hand,  and  the  sledge  ceases  to  glide  smoothly  over  the  snow.  At  45° 
(below  which,  the  thermometer  not  unfrequently  falls  at  Yakutsk),  in  spit- 
ting, the  saliva  freezes  before  it  reaches  the  ground,  and  you  see  it  form  a 
round  solid  ball  on  the  snow.  At  Holy  Cape,  in  the  Icy  Sea,  in  passing 
through  a  gorge  of  the  mountains,  when  the  thermometer  stood  at  only  30°, 
he  felt  a  current  of  air  which  burned  and  pinched  the  skin  like  a  needle 
This  wind,  the  natives  call  Kious ;  and  in  order  to  inure  themselves  to  it, 
they  expose  their  faces  continually,  until  the  skin  becomes  hardened  and  in- 
sensible to  its  effects.  "What  is  very  singular,  the  Kious  is  not  felt  when  the 
wind  is  high.  Professor  Erman,  when  traveling  in  Siberia,  experienced,  on 
laying  his  naked  hand  on  a  metal  instrument,  which  had  been  exposed  to  the 
open  air,  the  same  sensation  and  effects  as  if  he  had  come  in  contact  with 
red-hot  iron ;  the  skin  of  his  fingers  becoming  immediately  blistered,  and 


62  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND   SIBERIA. 

adhering  to  the  metal.  In  traveling,  it  is  frequently  necessary  to  stop  on  the 
road,  to  have  the  congealed  breath  and  blood  cleared  out  of  the  horses'  nos- 
trils, the  excessive  cold  causing  the  animals  to  bleed  violently  at  the  nose." 

But  we  must  return  to  our  traveler.  To  rest  their  horses,  they  did  not 
depart  until  late  the  next  day.  "  The  intervening  time,"  says  Cochrane, 
"  I  consumed  in  various  employments,  chiefly  by  contrasting  in  my  mind, 
the  populous  cities  and  towns  I  had  left,  with  the  remote  and  widely  distant 
villages  I  now  meet,  and  '  those  vast  and  uncultivated  tracts/  as  are  observed 
by  Talleyrand,  when  speaking  upon  society,  '  traversed  rather  than  peopled, 
by  men  who  belong  to  no  nation.  It  is  a  novel  spectacle  for  a  traveler,  who, 
taking  his  departure  from  a  large  town  where  society  is  perfected,  watches 
every  degree  of  civilization  and  industry  becoming  every  moment  weaker, 
until  he  arrives  in  a  few  days  at  the  clumsy  and  coarse  hut,  constructed  with 
the  trunks  of  fallen  trees.  Such  a  journey,  is  a  practical  analysis  of  the 
origin  and  progress  of  nations,  where  we  have  a  complicated  aggregate  to 
arrive  at  the  most  simple  elements  ;  every  day  we  lose  sight  of  some  one  of 
those  inventions  which  our  unceasing  wants  have  rendered  necessary,  and 
seem  to  travel  backward  in  the  history  of  the  progress  of  the  human  mind. 
If  such  a  spectacle  invites  the  imagination,  if  we  are  delighted  to  find  in 
space  what  alone  belongs  to  time,  we  must  be  content  to  see  very  few  social 
ties  among  those  men  who  appear  so  little  to  belong  to  the  same  association 
so  little  to  possess  a  uniformity  of  character.'  These  ideas,  so  congenia 
with  my  own,  occupied  me  in  a  melancholy  mood  until  I  rose,  and,  looking 
at  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  reflected,  that  wherever  I  was,  the  sami 
Providence  was  there  also." 

On  the  ninth  day  after  leaving  Tabalak,  they  reached  Zashiversk,  two  hun 
dred  and  fifty  miles  distant  :  between  the  two  places,  there  was  not  a  singl 
inhabited  dwelling,  and  but  eight  charity  yourtes  or  travelers'  huts.  Of  all 
the  places  he  had  ever  seen,  bearing  the  name  of  city  or  town,  this  appeared 
to  Cochrane  the  most  dreary  and  desolate  ;  his  blood  froze  within  him,  as  he 
beheld  and  approached  the  settlement.  This,  the  first  considerable  halting- 
place  from  Yakutsk,  the  half-way  house,  is  nine  hundred  or  a  thousand 
miles  removed  from  a  civilized  spot.  It  gives  name  to  a  commissariat,  and 
contained  seven  most  miserable  huts,  inhabited  severally,  by  two  Russian 
priests,  two  military  officers,  a  post-master,  a  merchant,  and  an  old  widow  ; 
and  these  seven  persons  constituted  the  whole  population. 

This  desolate  spot  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Indirgirka  river,  which  furnisher 
abundance  of  fish,  almost  the  only  support  of  its  inhabitants.  On  the  3d  ol 
December,  he  left  the  town,  grateful  for  the  kindness  of  its  poor  inhabitants, 
who  had  supplied  him  with  plenty  of  fish,  here  eaten  in  a  raw  state,  and 
which  seemed  to  him,  the  greatest  delicacy  he  had  ever  tasted.  "  In  spite 
of  our  prejudices,"  says  Cochrane,  "  there  is  nothing  to  be  compared  to  the 
melting  of  raw  fish  in  the  mouth  ;  oysters,  clotted  cream,  or  the  finest  jelly 
in  the  world  is  nothing  to  it ;  nor  is  it  only  a  small  quantity  that  may  be 
eaten  of  this  precious  commodity.  I  myself,  have  finished  a  whole  fish, 
which,  in  its  frozen  state,  might  have  weighed  two  or  three  pounds,  and 


COCHRANE'S  PEDESTRIAN  JOURNEY  63 

with  black  biscuit  and  a  glass  of  rye-brandy,  have  defied  either  nature  or  art 
to  prepare  a  better  meal.  It  is  cut  up  or  shaved  into  slices,  with  a  sharp 
knife,  from  head  to  tail,  and  thence  derives  the  name  of  Stroganlna  ;  to  com- 
plete the  luxury,  only  salt  and  pepper  were  wanting." 

For  awhile,  they  passed  down  on  the  slippery  surface  of  the  Indirgirka, 
the  route  still  l)'ing  north  ;  then  they  entered  upon  a  seemingly  boundle3a 
plain,  Cochrane  suffering  much,  at  times,  from  the  cold,  especially  in  hia 
knees,  which,  from  his  being  on  horseback,  were  peculiarly  exposed,  and  had 
become  terribly  inflamed  ;  they  had  a  feeling  of  deadness  and  dreadful  fatigue, 
which  he  could  not  account  for,  until  a  trader  explained  to  him  by  signs  and 
words,  that  if  he  did  not  protect  them  by  additional  covering,  he  would  cer- 
tainly not  only  lose  both  legs  above  the  knees,  but  by  their  subsequent  mor- 
tification, his  life  also  ;  he  took  the  advice,  and  suffered  no  more  from  this 
source. 

Making  their  way  for  days  through  the  snow-clad  plains,  they  reached 
the  station  called  Malone,  beyond  which,  horses  seldom  go.  Cochrane  was 
here  provided  with  thirteen  dogs,  a  driver,  and  a  vehicle  covered  over  with 
a  frame,  and  an  oil-cloth  to  keep  out  the  cold,  which  he  finding  to  confine 
the  air  too  much,  rashly  threw  away,  and  in  this  unprotected  state,  continued 
on.  The  want  of  exercise  affected  him  cruelly,  and  he  was  distressed  with 
the  cold  beyond  all  experience.  Sometimes  it  made  him  so  drowsy,  that  it 
required  all  the  exertions  of  the  driver  to  prevent  him  from  falling  into  the 
fatal  sleep. 

At  length,  on  the  last  day  of  December  (1820),  after  a  most  tedious,  labo- 
rious, and  perilous  journey  from  Yakutsk,  of  sixty-one  days,  twenty  of  which 
were  passed  in  the  snow,  without  even  the  comfort  of  a  blanket,  and  with 
far  less  clothing  than  the  poorest  of  the  natives,  Cochrane  arrived  at  Nishney 
Kolymsk.  He  felt  grateful  for  his  safe  arrival  at  such  a  season  of  intense 
cold,  and  with  only  the  upper  part  of  the  nose  between  the  eyes,  at  all 
injured. 

Nishney  Kolymsk,  is  a  large  town  for  this  part  of  the  world,  containing  as 
it  does,  near  fifty  dwellings,  and  four  hundred  people.  It  is  on  the  river 
Kolyma,  only  two  or  three  days'  journey  from  the  frozen  ocean.  Two  hun- 
dred years  ago,  it  was  founded  by  a  wandering  Cossack  ;  though  what  could 
have  induced  people  to  settle  in  a  place  where  the  sun  lights,  but  never 
warms,  seems  to  us  a  mystery  ;  where  there  is  a  day  that  lasts  fifty-two  of 
our  days,  and  a  night  that  lasts  thirty-eight ;  where  there  is  no  spring  and  no 
autumn,  but  ?  faint  semblance  of  summer  for  three  months,  and  then  winter, 
and  where  a  few  stunted  willows  and  grass  form  all  the  vegetation.  But  by 
way  of  compensation,  the  reindeer  and  other  arctic  animals  abound  ;  abundance 
of  swans,  ducks,  geese,  partridges,  and  other  birds  ;  and  the  quantity  of  fish 
which  swarm  the  rivers  is  absolutely  prodigious.  And  yet,  though  the  popu- 
lation of  this  region  be  now  so  scanty,  there  was  once  a  numerous  race  in  this 
part  of  Siberia,  the  ruins  of  whose  forts  and  villages,  are  yet  found.  Beside 
the  native  population,  there  are  in  the  district,  three  hundred  Russians,  the 
descendants  of  exiles.     Their  houses  are  of  wood,  which  have  floated  down 


64  THROUGH  RUSSIA  AND   SIBERIA. 

the  stream  from  more  southern  climes  and  thrown  upon  the  shore,  and  col- 
lected by  years  of  patience.  Moss  and  clay  fill  up  the  chinks,  and  in  winter 
the  panes  are  of  ice,  half  a  foot  thick,  and  in  summer  of  skins. 

The  people  are  a  bold,  energetic  race.  Every  hour  of  weather  fit  for  out- 
door work,  is  spent  in  fishing  and  hunting,  and  preparing  food  for  the  winter. 
In  the  light  sledge,  or  on  skates,  with  nets  and  spears,  they  are  laboring  at 
each  of  these  employments  in  its  season.  Toward  the  end  of  the  long  winten, 
a  perfect  cloud  of  swans,  geese,  ducks,  and  snipes  pour  in ;  and  all,  men, 
women,  and  children,  rush  forward  to  the  hunt.  The  fish  come  in  next,  as 
the  ice  breaks ;  and  presently,  the  time  for  the  reindeer  hunt  comes  round. 
Every  minute  of  the  summer  season  is  consumed  in  laying  in  a  stock  of  all 
these  aliments  for  a  long  and  dreary  winter  season  :  the  women  collect  herbs 
and  roots.  As  the  summer  is  just  about  to  end,  the  herrings  appear  in  shoals, 
and  a  new  source  of  subsistence  is  opened  up. 

Immediately  upon  his  arrival,  Cochrane  received  ample  supplies  of  provi- 
sions and  dress,  and  he  was  enabled  'to  take  daily  exercise  with  impunity, 
when  the  thermometer  was  58°  below  zero.  He  found  there,  the  celebrated 
Baron  Wrangel,  who  with  his  party,  were  then  engaged  upon  one  of  his  ex- 
ploring expeditions  in  these  Arctic  regions. 

Although  Kolymsk  is  not  without  its  trade,  the  chief  traffic  of  this  region 
is  at  the  fair  with  the  Tchuktchi  at  the  Ostrovnaya  fortress,  two  days'  jour- 
ney east  of  the  town.  The  inhabitants  look  to  the  Tchuktchi  for  their  winter 
clothing  and  most  valuable  fur  trade.  Our  traveler  attended  the  annual  fair 
which  was  held  in  March  at  Ostrovnaya.  About  one  hundred  and  fifty  indi- 
viduals of  the  tribe  had  come  from  their  country,  on  the  borders  of  Behring's 
Straits,  some  eight  hundred  miles  distant,  in  sledges  drawn  by  reindeer,  and 
loaded  down  with  ivory  (the  teeth  of  sea-horses),  bear,  reindeer,  and  fox 
skins,  and  some  reindeer  meat,  being  partly  productions  of  their  own  coun- 
try, and  partly  obtained  from  the  North  American  Indians  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Straits.  These  they  exchanged  with  the  Russian  traders  for 
tobacco,  knives,  kettles,  needles,  bells,  scissors,  pipes,  beads,  and  other  small 
ornaments,  and  blue  nankeen,  and  white  cotton. 

The  fair  was  held  upon  the  river  opposite  the  fortress.  Early  each  morn- 
ing the  Tchuktchi  arrived  at  the  place  of  barter,  and  forming  a  semicircle, 
opening  toward  the  fort,  disposed  their  furs,  etc.,  upon  their  sledges,  mounted 
their  persons  on  the  top  of  their  goods,  and  then  with  their  arms  thrust  into 
their  bosoms  to  keep  them  warm,  patiently  awaited  the  appoint-  i  signal  for 
the  barter  to  commence.  The  moment  it  was  given  they  remainei  perfectly 
quiet,  while  the  Russians,  on  the  contrary,  started  pell-mell  for  the 
sledges,  laden  down  with  pots,  pans,  kettles,  knives,  swords,  hatchets,  scis- 
sors, etc.,  all  jingling  in  ludicrous  confusion  :  priests,  officers,  Cossacks,  and 
merchants,  men,  women,  and  children  were  alike  fantastically  dressed  with 
articles  of  traffic,  of  which  tobacco  constituted  the  chief.  The  labor  of  selling 
appeared  to  fall  almost  entirely  upon  the  Kolymskians,  who  had  to  drag  along 
their  loads  of  merchandise  a  long  time  before  they  could  induce  the  wily 
s?vages  to  barter. 

The  Tchuktchi  are  a  very  adventurous  people,  and  wander  much  among 


COCHRAN E'S  PEDESTRIAN"  JOURNEY  65 

the  Polar  seas  in  their  skin  boats  in  quest  of  their  game.  Their  features, 
manners,  and  customs  evince  that  they  are  of  American  origin,  and  our 
traveler  was  of  opinion  that  the  northern  races  of  American  Indians  are 
descended  from  them. 

The  principal  object  Cochrane  had  in  view  in  attending  the  fair  was  to 
make  an  arrangement  with  these  people  to  allow  him  to  accompany  them 
through  their  country,  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  Behring's  Straits  to  the 
American  continent ;  but  this  plan  failing  through  the  exorbitant  demand  of 
the  savages,  he  determined  to  take  the  direct  route  to  Okotsk,  distant,  in  a 
southerly  direction,  on  the  Pacific,  nearly  two  thousand  miles,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  reaching  America  in  a  vessel  from  that  point. 

Winter  was  raging  in  all  its  severity  when  our  traveler  left  Nishney  Ko- 
lymsk  for  Okotsk.  His  way  was  over  a  large  tract  of  desolate  country 
nearly  two  thousand  miles  across.  Our  limits  do  not  permit  us  to  detail  the 
difficulties  and  perils  of  the  undertaking,  which  far  exceeded  anything  of  the 
kind  within  his  experience  ;  but  which,  after  seventy-five  days  of  indescribable 
toil,  were  successfully  conquered.  His  route  lay  along  broad,  rapid,  dan- 
gerous, and  almost  impassable  rivers,  over  lofty,  ice-clad  mountains,  large, 
overflowed  marshes,  through  dense,  decayed  forests,  and  half-frozen  lakes. 
He  suffered  greatly  from  cold,  rain,  hunger,  and  fatigue,  was  forty-five  nights 
exposed  to  the  snow,  and  often  without  fire  with  the  thermometer  25°  and 
30°  below  zero.  At  one  time  he  was  for  five  days  without  food  ;  was  fre- 
quently lost  and  bewildered  in  the  snow  mountains  ;  for  a  space  of  one  thou- 
sand miles  he  did  not  see  a  single  human  habitation,  and  for  nearly  half  that 
distance  not  a  solitary  individual. 

On  his  arrival  at  Okotsk,  he  was  received  with  much  kindness  by  Captain 
Ushinsky,  the  chief  officer  of  the  place.  That  gentleman  was  much  sur- 
prised at  his  haggard  and  miserable  appearance.  Cochrane  finding  no  ves- 
sels in  the  port  bound  to  the  American  continent,  and  no  probability  of  there 
being  any  during  the  year,  was  constrained  to  abandon  the  grand  object  of 
his  enterprise  and  the  chief  fruits  of  all  his  toils.  He,  however,  crossed  over 
to  the  peninsula  of  Kamtschatka.  There  he  remained  eleven  months,  and 
there  all  his  "airy  phantoms,  bold  desires,  and  his  eccentric  turn"  were 
"dissipated  by  one  woman."  In  short,  in  this  extreme  corner  of  the  world, 
our  bold  traveler,  who  had  conquered  so  many  difficulties,  was  conquered  in 
turn  :  he  fell  captive  to  the  charms  of  one  of  the  softer  sex,  a  native  of  Kamt- 
schatka, and  was  bound  in  indissoluble  bonds. 

The  peninsula  of  Kamtschatka  is  of  an  oval  shape  ;  through  it  runs,  from 
north  to  south,  a  magnificent  chain  of  mountains,  from  which  issue  numerous 
rivers,  crowded  with  fish  of  an  excellent  flavor.  Ship  timber  abounds,  and 
grass  of  a  most  nutritious  quality.  The  climate  is  too  cold  for  potatoes,  cab- 
bages, or  peas,  btft  turnips  and  radishes  thrive  amazingly.  The  principal 
riches  are  furs  from  the  animals  of  the  chase,  of  which  there  is  a  prodigious 
number ;  next  to  these  may  be  considered  the  dogs.  These  faithful  and  use- 
ful creatures  are  employed  to  transport  the  fish,  supply  the  house  with  water, 
the  cattle  with  hay — in  fine,  to  do  all  the  work  that  horses  perform  in  tempe- 
rate climates.  Surprising  quantities  of  geese,  ducks,  swans,  snipes,  and  wild 
5 


66  THROUGH   RUSSIA   AND    SIBERIA. 

cccks  abound,  and  as  a  whole,  few  people  have  more  of  the  necessaries  of 
life  than  the  Kamtschatkes. 

The  natives  are  hospitable,  truth-loving,  honest,  and  amiable  ;  they  are 
established  in  villages,  built  in  the  old  Russian  style,  which  are  clean  and 
comfortable.  During  the  summer  or  fishing  season,  they  leave  their  winter 
residences  for  the  balagans,  or  places  which  they  use  for  drying  their  fish. 
Thus  the  summer  is  employed  in  preparing  food  against  the  winter,  while 
the  latter  is  taken  up  in  the  chase.  The  whole  population  amounts  to  about 
four  thousand,  of  which  one-quarter  only  are  Russians.  The  introduction  of 
ardent  spirits  and  of  Russian  convicts  have  both  been  productive  of  much 
misery  to  the  natives. 

When  our  traveler  left  Kamtschatka  he  was  accompanied  by  his  wife. 
His  return  route  to  St.  Petersburg  was  by  easy  stages,  and  without  marked 
incidents.     He  had  been  absent  a  little  over  three  years. 

If  this  hurried  sketch  of  his  travels  in  Siberia  has  been  devoid  of  the  inte- 
rest anticipated,  it  can  be  in  a  measure  explained  by  our  traveler's  own 
words:  "  Siberia,"  says  he,  "is,  in  fact,  one  immense  wilderness,  whose 
inhabitants  are  so  scattered,  that  five  or  six  hundred  miles  are  often  passed 
by  the  traveler  without  seeing  an  individual,  much  less  any  cultivation,  or 
any  works  of  man  at  all  worthy  of  description.  The  manners,  dress,  and 
customs  of  the  inhabitants  are  the  same.  The  severity  of  the  climate  is,  in 
most  cases,  co-equal,  and  in  general  productive  of  the  same  results,  anct 
there  is,  as  a  whole,  so  little  of  interest  in  Siberia  to  be  seen,  that  it  is  hardly 
possible  to  form  an  interesting  narrative  upon  it." 


THE    EMANCIPATION    OP    THE    SERFS. 

The  present  Emperor  of  Russia,  Alexander,  ascended  the  throne  in  1854. 
In  1861  he  signalized  his  reign  by  the  emancipation  of  all  the  serfs  of  his 
empire.  The  total  population  of  the  empire  was  then  about  eighty-two 
millions.  Of  these  nearly  sixty  millions  were  serfs,  eighteen  millions  mer- 
chants, mechanics  and  professional  men,  and  a  million  and  a  half  of  noble- 
men and  clergy. 

Under  the  old  regime  slaves  could  not  own  the  land,  but  they  were  required, 
generation  after  generation,  to  reside  on  the  same  lands.  The  nobles  did  not 
own  the  slaves,  hut  they  owned  the  land  to  which  the  serfs  were  legally 
attached  :  so  it  amounted  practically  to  the  same  thing.  The  merchants  and 
some  few  other  classes,  not  serfs,  could  own  a  small  portion  of  land.  Lip- 
pincotfs  Magazine,  for  August,  1870,  states  : 

"  The  emperor  Alexander  has  tried  to  deal  justly  by  his  nobles,  as  well  as 
to  place  it  in  the  power  of  every  freedman  to  obtain  a  home.  The  nobles 
were  called  upon  to  relinquish  about  a  third  of  their  land,  to  be  distributed 
in  small  parcels  among  the  emancipated  serfs,  wrho  were  required  to  pay  for 
it  in  labor  or  otherwise,  at  a  fair  valuation.  The  terms  were  made  easy,  the 
payment  being  extended  over  a  period  of  forty -nine  years,  in  equal  annual 


EMANCIPATION  OF  THE  SERFS.  67 

installments ;  and  in  order  to  avoid  difficulty  or  contention  between  the 
former  masters  and  serfs,  the  imperial  government  assumed  these  payments 
to  the  land-owner,  and  the  serf  made  his  payments  to  the  government.  It 
was  also  provided  that  the  land-owner  could  receive  his  pay  from  the  govern- 
ment at  once,  upon  a  discount  of  twenty  per  cent. —  a  very  moderate  rate  of 
interest  for  forty-nine  years.  By  these  wise  and  judicious  measures  no  injus- 
tice has  been  done  to  the  nobility,  while  at  the  same  time  an  incentive  to 
labor  and  to  effort  has  been  given  to  those  who  have  suddenly  found  them- 
selves transferred  from  slavery  to  freedom.  Had  this  policy  been  pursued 
in  our  own  country,  justice  would  have  been  secured  to  the  freedman,  while 
all  classes  would  have  participated  in  the  beneficial  results. 

Under  the  present  laws  of  Russia  any  one  can  hold  land  who  has  the 
industry  and  energy  to  acquire  it.  The  moral  and  material  results  of  this 
wholesale  emancipation  have,  as  yet,  only  begun  to  develop  themselves ;  but 
to  give  an  idea  of  what  has  already  been  accomplished,  it  is  stated  by  M.  de 
Catacazy,  the  Russian  minister  at  Washington,  that  the  emancipated  serfs 
have  already,  under  a  system  of  taxation,  established  over  fifteen  thousand 
schools  for  the  education  of  their  children,  and  the  number  is  constantly 
increasing. 

As  an  illustration  of  the  physical  and  material  development  consequent  on 
this  movement,  he  cited  the  fact  that  since  the  emancipation  over  eleven 
thousand  miles  of  railroad  have  already  been  built,  and  eight  thousand  miles 
more  are  at  this  time  in  process  of  construction. 

The  story  which  recently  went  the  rounds  of  our  press,  that  the  emperor 
Alexander  was  addicted  to  habits  of  intemperance,  is  pronounced  by  those 
who  know  him  to  be  false  and  without  foundation." 

The  plan  of  the  emancipation  of  the  serfs  was  conceived  by  Alexander 
when  a  mere  child  : 

Nothing  was  farther  from  the  thoughts  or  intentions  of  the  emperor 
Nicholas,  the  father  of  the  present  emperor,  or  of  his  advisers,  or  of  the 
nobles  of  Russia,  than  this  act  consummated  by  the  present  emperor.  When 
a  boy  of  nine  years,  Alexander,  sitting  one  morning  at  the  breakfast-table 
with  the  emperor  and  empress,  his  governess  standing  near,  was  observed  to 
be  leaning  his  head  upon  his  hand,  and  apparently  in  deep  thought.  His 
mother  asked  him,  'What  are  your  thoughts,  my  son?'  As  the  boy  hesi- 
tated, the  question  was  repeated,  when,  looking  up  with  an  earnest  and  deeply 
serious  air,  he  said,  '  I  was  thinking  how,  when  I  become  emperor,  I  can 
make  free  all  my  poor  countrymen  who  are  now  slaves.'  His  mother  was 
startled  by  this  answer,  while  the  emperor  Nicholas  turned  pale.  The  gov- 
erness, fearing  that  the  charge  might  be  made  that  her  influence  over  the 
child  had  caused  this  strange  and  unaccountable  remark,  was  much  discon- 
certed. The  empress  earnestly  questioned  the  boy  as  to  the  origin  of  this 
extraordinary  thought.  After  some  hesitation  he  answered  that  he  had  learned 
it  in  church  and  from  God's  word,  wherein  the  duty  of  loving  one's  neigh- 


68  THE  FUTURE  OF  RUSSIA. 

bor  as  one's  self,  and  of  doing  unto  all  men  as  we  would  have  them  do  unto 
us,  was  so  often  and  so  earnestly  inculcated.  He  thought  that  it  was  not 
right  that  those  poor  people  should  forever  remain  slaves.  The  subject  was 
not  again  alluded  to,  but  the  young  prince  pondered  all  such  things  in  his 
heart,  and  as  he  grew  older  grew  stronger  in  his  determination  to  confer  this 
great  boon  upon  his  subjects. 

On  his  accession  to  the  throne,  Alexander  immediately  sent  for  a  man  of 
eminent  piety  and  honesty,  as  well  as  of  a  strong  intellect,  and  intrusted  his 
thoughts  and  plans  to  him.  These  two,  in  the  recesses  of  the  palace,  with 
God's  eye  upon  them,  and  with  an  earnest  desire  within  them  to  carry  out 
in  the  best  manner  possible  the  great  plan  of  emancipation,  devised  and  put 
into  operation  that  vast  scheme,  the  result  of  which  has  been  the  freedom  of 
all  the  serfs  of  Russia." 

THE    FUTURE    OF    RUSSIA. 

Russia,  inhabited  by  the  great  Sclavonic  race,  is  as  yet  a  young  giant  in  its 
infancy.  The  part  she  is  to  act  in  human  history  is  but  begun.  The  recont 
emancipation  of  her  serfs  has,  in  the  future,  untold  benefits  to  herself  and  the 
world  generally.  Professor  Pumpelly,  in  his  work,  "  Across  America  and 
Asia,"  gives  the  following  forecast  of  the  coming  events  to  the  prominent 
races  of  man,  which  must  strike  every  thoughtful  mind.     He  says  : 

"  If  we  look  at  a  map  of  the  world,  with  reference  to  the  inevitable  future 
of  the  northern  temperate  zone,  we  shall  find  its  greatest  cultivable  areas 
divided  between  two  great  sections  of  mankind — the  Anglo-Saxon  and  the 
Sclavonic.  And  these  are  also  the  areas  which  admit  of  a  sure  increase  of 
population  to  a  point  compared  with  which  the  present  numbers  are  almost 
as  nothing. 

An  eminent  English  geographer  has  calculated  that,  considering  the  rate 
of  increase  in  the  United  States,  the  area  of  cultivable  land  in  the  two 
Americas,  and  the  capacity  of  that  area  for  supporting  life,  it  is  possible  that 
within  a  little  more  than  three  centuries  the  population  of  North  and  South 
xVmerica  will  be  between  two  and  three  thousand  millions. 

And,  in  view  of  the  relative  rates  of  increase  and  absorption  now  ruling 
among  the  different  races  on  these  continents,  it  is  probable  that  at  some 
future  period  its  population  will  be  in  so  far  homogeneous  that  it  will  speak 
one  language  and  have  one  form  of  government. 

A  similar  calculation  applied  to  the  eastern  continent  would  point  to  a 
not  less  wonderful  expansion  of  the  Sclavonic  race,  from  the  Baltic  Sea  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  Leaving  out  of  consideration  all  the  rest  of  its  territory, 
European  Russia  possesses,  south  of  the  latitude  of  Moscow,  a  region  of  the 
most  fertile  agricultural  land,  whose  extent  and  productiveness  are  so  great 
that  it  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  it  is  capable  of  supporting  a  population 
four  times  as  large  as  that  of  China — greater  than  the  entire  population  of 
our  globe. 


THE  FUTURE  OF  RUSSIA.  69 

Until  recently  the  tendency  of  the  political  and  social  organization  of  Rus- 
sia has  been  to  prevent  a  rapid  increase  of  population ;  but  the  recent  polit- 
ical reform,  and  the  growing  network  of  railroad  and  steamboat  communica- 
tion are  infusing  a  new  life  in  the  empire,  and  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt 
that  facilities  for  expansion  will  be  followed  there,  as  elsewhere,  by  a  growth 
in  the  ratio  of  increase  of  population.  It  will  be  strange  if,  within  the  next 
ten  or  twenty  years,  Russia,  which  is  by  nature  the  granary  of  Europe,  does 
not  come  into  a  competition  with  our  Western  States,  which,  perhaps,  not 
even  the  utmost  exertion  on  our  part  will  enable  us  to  hold  out  against. 

When  we  consider  the  immense  extent  of  this  empire,  and  its  capacity  for 
population,  wealth  and  power,  and  then  compare  with  it  the  small  extent  of 
western  Europe,  split  up  into  small  nationalities,  with  an  overflowing  popu- 
lation dependent  on  the  East  and  West  for  its  supply  of  food,  the  belief  of 
the  Pan-sclavist  seems  almost  prophetic  ;  Russia,  more  than  America,  i(  hangs 
like  a  thunder-cloud,"  over  its  western  neighbors. 

The  expansion  from  the  West  and  from  the  East,  to  the  opposite  shores  of 
the  Pacific,  of  two  races  on  a  civilization  hitherto  intimately  connected  with 
the  Atlantic  coasts,  is  already  marking  out  for  the  Great  Ocean  a  most  im- 
portant part  in  the  early  future.  Into  this  future  history  another  element 
seems  destined  to  enter  ;  I  mean  the  part  that  will  be  taken  by  the  Chinese 
and  Japanese  peoples. 

The  immense  resources  of  China  in  coal  and  iron  and  other  minerals,  in 
labor  and  the  means  of  supporting  life,  and  in  the  conformation  of  its  sur- 
face, are  elements  which,  in  the  present  and  coming  age,  can  not  be  idle.  The 
utilizing  of  these  resources  can  not  fail  to  be  followed  by  the  same  results 
there  as  elsewhere,  raising  the  nation  by  which  they  are  developed  to  a  po- 
sition of  authority  in  the  world's  affairs.  There  seems  to  me  to  be  little 
doubt  that  this  result  will  be  accomplished  by  the  Chinese  people.  In 
every  direction  we  see  in  this  race  evidences  of  that  vitality  which  has  made 
of  them  a  great  nation,  and  which  has  kept  them  erect  through  all  the  vicis- 
itudes  of  the  rest  of  the  world  through  long  ages,  which  have  witnessed 
the  destruction  and  scattering  of  races  and  rise  and  fall  of  great  empires. 
This  vitality  is  becoming  apparent  in  a  new  and  equally  important  direction  : 
the  Chinese  are  showing  themselves  to  be  essentially  fitted  to  be  colonizers, 
and  as  such  they  seem  already  to  be  resolving  a  great  geographical  problem. 
They  are  showing  themselves  capable  of  peopling  and  making  useful  to  the 
world  the  vast  extent  of  the  peninsular  and  island  territory  of  Further  India 
and  Australasia.  Here  they  exhibit  the  same  energy  as  at  home,  and  that  too 
in  climates  where  neither  the  Malay  inhabitants  will,  nor  the  European 
laborer  can,  endure  fatigue.  Throughout  these  regions,  wherever  they  obtain 
a  foothold,  they  absorb  both  the  trade  and  the  industry  which  supports  it. 

In  a  large  English  machine-shop  at  Singapore,  the  owners  have  substi- 
tuted entirely  Chinese  for  English  workmen,  finding  the  former  more  sober 
and  enduring,  and,  after  instruction,  even  better  mechanics.     In  this  same 


70  THE  FUTURE  OF  RUSSIA. 

English  colony,  Chinese  capitalists  are  said  to  have  driven  their  European 
rivals  almost  or  quite  out  of  the  field.  In  the  Sandwich  Islands,  of  six 
sugar  plantations,  expected  to  produce,  in  1865,  20,000  tons  of  sugar,  two 
were  owned  by  Chinese  capitalists  and  worked  by  Chinese  labor.  In  our 
own  western  territories,  where  they  are  treated  worse  than  dogs,  this  race  is 
obtaining  a  foothold,  and  is  destined  to  assume  a  political  importance  preg- 
nant with  great  good  or  great  evil.  The  introduction  of  this  labor  upon  the 
Pacific  Railroad  is  certain  to  give  the  Chinaman  the  same  incentive  to  emi- 
grate from  his  over-crowded  country  as  that  which  impels  the  Irishman 
across  the  Atlantic. 

Excepting  our  ignorance  as  to  the  results  of  amalgamation  between  the 
European  and  the  Mongolian  races,  and  the  danger  of  the  formation  of  caste 
if  such  a  mixture  does  not  take  place,  I  see  no  reason  why  such  an  immigra- 
tion should  be  followed  by  other  than  the  most  desirable  consequences. 
There  are  many  parts  of  Central  and  South  America  better  adapted  to  a 
Chinese  population  than  to  any  other.  And  the  same  remarks  might  apply  to 
the  far  north,  for  they  show  the  same  energy  in  the  extreme  cold  of  the  Sibe- 
rian frontier. 

The  day  of  the  first  meeting  of  a  through  train  on  the  Pacific  Railroad  with 
the  Chinese  American  steamers,  was  the  beginning  of  a  new  era  in  the  history 
of  the  Pacific  world.  This  line,  across  the  continent  and  across  the  ocean,  is 
surely  but  the  beginning  of  a  great  network  which,  on  the  new  maps  of  every 
decade,  will  measure  the  growing  enterprise  of  our  own  continent,  of  the 
Pacific,  and  of  Eastern  and  Northern  Asia. 

Thus  there  is  being  completed  a  grand  cycle  in  the  history  of  civilization. 
The  compass,  printing,  gunpowder,  the  use  of  coal,  and  a  vague  knowledge 
of  some  subtle  fluid  in  the  air  and  earth — all  these  had  their  origin  among  a 
people  on  the  western  shores  of  the  Pacific.  Long  applied,  in  the  land  of 
their  birth,  in  their  simplest  forms  to  their  simplest  uses,  these  instruments 
of  civilization  have  traveled  westward  around  the  globe  during  six  hundred 
years,  becoming  perfected  and  building  up  sciences  and  arts  which  give  com- 
mand over  time  and  space,  over  force  and  matter,  until  now,  the  only  step 
that  remains  to  complete  the  circle  and  the  cycle  is  their  engraftment  on  the 
etock  from  which  they  sprung." 


SCENES    AND    EXCURSIONS 


IN 


SWITZERLAND 


DE   SAUSSURE  S   ASCENT   OF   MONT   BLANC. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Siftch  of  Switzerland — Mountainous  Character — Glaciers — Avalanches — Lakes — Y {.Hoys- 
History — Social  condition — "Watch  Making — Free  Trade — Swiss  Melodies— Scenes  around 
Lucerne — Beauty  of  this  region — Lake  of  Lucerne — The  Story  of  William  Tell — Pictorial 
Bridges— The  Swiss  Guards— Heroism  of  Arnold  de  Winkelreid— Slide  of  Alpnach— 
Ascent  of  the  Righi — Extraordinary  glory  of  the  view — Catastrophe  of  Goldau. 

Switzerland,  in  size,  is  a  little  less  than  the  two  states  of  Vermont  and 
New  Hampshire.  It  is  a  very  high  and  rugged  country,  and  is  traversed 
by  ramifications  of  the  Alps  and  Jura  mountains.  The  word  Alp,  signifies 
a  mountain.  The  immense  masses  of  these  mountain  regions  exhibit  a 
perfect  chaos,  and  present  on  all  sides  inaccessible  rocks,  and  everlasting 
snows.  The  intervening  valleys,  however,  contain  extensive  districts,  fertile 
and  beautiful,  and  forming  a  singular  contrast  with  the  mountains  that  over- 
shadow, and  seem  ready  to  overwhelm  them.  The  gradations  of  anima/ 
and  vegetable  life,  are  singularly  marked  at  different  elevations ;  and  the 
tine,  the  oak,  the  beech,  and  the  fir,  rapidlv  succeed  each  other,  until  from 

(IV 


72  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

the  limits  of  perpetual  snow,  animal  and  vegetable  life  become  gradually 
more  and  more  dwarfish,  and  at  length  give  way  beneath  the  blight  of  inhos- 
pitable regions  which  reach  the  skies. 

At  3.000  feet  elevation  is  the  region  of  glaciers.  These  remarkable  objects 
are  formed  exclusively  in  the  highest  valleys,  where  the  sun  never  penetrates. 
A  glacier  is  def.ned  as  a  mass  of  ice  hanging  on  an  alpine  ridge,  or  inclosed 
in  one  of  its  valleys,  and  which  is  moving  continually  down  its  declivity,  im- 
pelled by  its  own  gravity.  Their  margins  are  bounded  by  roundish  blocks 
of  stone,  which  have  been  accumulated  before  them  as  they  advance.  The 
glaciers  of  Switzerland  cover  more  than  1000  square  miles,  or  about  one 
seventeenth  of  its  entire  surface  ;  and  it  is  from  these  inexhaustible  source? 
that  the  principal  rivers  of  Europe  are  supplied  with  water.  The  avalanches 
formed  by  the  accumulated  snows  rolling  down  the  steep  sides  of  the  moun 
tains,  are  terrific,  sometimes  overwhelming  entire  villages.  But  the  "  land- 
slips," are  still  more  serious.  These  fall,  like  avalanches,  from  the  sides  of 
the  mountains,  and  consist  of  masses  of  earth  torn  from  their  beds  by  the  ex- 
pansive force  of  freezing.  One  of  the  most  disastrous  of  these  took  place  in 
1806,  when  Goldau,  and  several  other  villages  in  the  valley  of  Arth,  were 
overwhelmed  by  the  fall  of  the  earth  and  stones  from  the  Rossberg.  Unlike 
the  Alps,  the  chain  of  Jura  is  clothed  from  base  to  summit  with  luxuriant  pine 
forests.  It  stretches  along  the  western  and  north-western  frontier,  from  the 
Rhone  to  the  Rhine,  arid  nowhere  rises  to  the  limit  of  perpetual  snow. 

Switzerland  is  pre-eminently  the  country  of  lakes.  They  are  all  small, 
none  being  over  fifty  miles  long,  and  a  few  miles  in  width.  They  are 
generally  remarkable  for  their  picturesque  beauty.  The  principal  are  Con- 
stance, Leman  or  Geneva,  Neufchatel,  Lucerne,  and  Zurich. 

Switzerland,  called  by  the  Romans  Helvetia,  was  celebrated  for  the  valor  of 
its  people.  During  the  middle  ages  it  was  overrun  by  a  succession  of  bar- 
barous invaders,  and  in  turn  came  under  the  supremacy  of  Charlemagne,  of 
the  House  of  Burgundy,  and  finally  of  the  House  of  Hapsburg,  whio". 
rendered  it  an  appendage  of  the  German  Empire.  The  violence  of  Albert  c. 
Austria,  brought  on  a  crisis.  The  forest  cantons,  under  the  impulse  received 
by  the  daring  courage  of  William  Tell,  rose  to  assert  their  liberties.  A 
long  struggle  ensued,  but  the  battle  of  Mongarten,  m  which  the  Austrian 
forces  were  completely  routed  by  the  mountaineers,  secured  the  independence 
cf  Switzerland.  A  confederacy  of  thirteen  cantons  was  formed,  and  the 
Swiss,  engaged  in  wars  among  themselves,  and  with  neighboring  powers,  toon 
acquired  a  high  military  reputation. 

In  1815,  after  the  downfall  of  Napoleon,  twenty-two  cantons  were  con- 
federated together  for  the  mutual  protection  of  their  liberties  and  indepen- 
dence. The  Diet,  which  directs  the  general  affairs  of  the  country,  is  com- 
posed of  deputies  from  the  cantons,  who  give  their  votes  under  instruction, 
each  canton  having  one  vote.  In  this  legislature  is  vested  the  power  of 
making  treaties,  but  the  separate  cantons  may  treat  with  foreign  powers  in 
military  matters,  and  for  purposes  of  economy  and  police,  but  these  treaties 
must  respect  the  federal  compact,  and  the  rights  of  other  cantons.  The  Diet 
appoints  and  recalls  diplomatic  agents,  oversees  the  general  safety,  and  regu- 


IX  SWITZERLAND.  73 

!ates  the  military  affairs  of  the  federal  army.  The  internal  affairs  of  each 
canton,  are  managed  by  independent  local  governments,  pretty  much  in  the 
same  way  as  in  the  United  States.  Many  changes  have  taken  place  within 
the  last  thirty  years,  all  tending  more  and  more  to  democracy,  and  many  of 
the  cantons  which  were  of  an  aristocratic  complexion,  are  now  thoroughly 
democratic. 

About  seven-tenths  of  the  population  are  composed  of  German  Swiss,  who  are 
generally  Protestants,  and  the  French,  Italian,  Roman,  and  Swiss  (the  last 
named,  speaking  a  language  near  the  Latin),  who  are  for  the  most  part 
Catholics.  The  relative  numbers  are  about  1,300,000  Protestants,  to  850,000 
Catholics.  This  mixture  of  races  and  religions,  proves  anything  but  a  source 
of  harmony  among  the  Swiss.  The  Catholics  are  bigoted,  and  the  Protes- 
tants retaliate.  Neither  allows  the  other  to  become  citizens  of  their  respec- 
tive cantons.  In  some  cantons,  Catholicism  is  peremptory,  and  all  the  children 
must  be  brought  up  in  that  faith.  Several  disturbances  have  occurred  be- 
tween the  rival  churches,  and  much  blood  flowed  on  both  sides.  In  1847, 
civil  war  was  the  result,  but  the  Protestants  prevailed,  and  expelled  the 
Jews,  and  all  monastic  orders  from  the  confederation.  The  Swiss  are 
among  the  best  educated  people  of  Europe.  The  principal  towns  in  Switzer- 
land are  Berne,  Basle,  Zurich,  Lucerne,  Lausanne,  and  Geneva.  Berne  is  gener- 
ally esteemed  the  capital ;  it  certainly  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  wealthy 
of  the  cities.  In  the  different  towns  and  villages  throughout  the  country, 
manufactures  are  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  for  home  consumption 
and  export.  The  manufacturing  industry  of  Switzerland,  in  some  measure, 
takes  its  tone  from  the  distinctions  of  race  in  the  population.  The  Germans 
engage  in  the  manufacture  of  iron  and  machinery,  linens,  ribbons,  silk, 
cotton,  pottery,  and  some  kinds  of  toys;  while  the  French,  from  their  superior 
artistic  tastes,  employ  themselves  in  making  watches,  jewelry,  music  boxes, 
and  other  elegant  objects.  Iron  of  a  superior  quality  is  found  in  one  of  the 
cantons  ;  and  coal  is  also  dug,  but  it  is  of  a  poor  quality,  and  wood  forme 
the  chief  fuel.  Salt  is  now  made  within  the  canton  of  Basle,  and  in  the 
Valais.  From  the  prevalence  of  rapid  running  streams,  there  is  an  abund- 
ance of  water-power  in  almost  all  quarters. 

Geneva  and  Neufchatel,  are  the  seat  of  the  watch  manufacture,  a  largs 
proportion  of  the  watches  being  made  in  hamlets  and  villages  throughout 
the  two  cantons.  In  the  long  valley,  called  the  Yalle  Travers,  stretching 
from  the  neighborhood  of  Neufchatel  to  the  borders  of  France,  and  at  Lode, 
in  the  same  quarter,  are  numerous  small  factories  of  these  elegant  articles. 
The  existence  of  a  great  manufacture  in  cottages,  scattered  over  fifty  miles 
of  mountains,  covered  some  months  in  the  year  with  snows  so  deep,  as  to  im- 
prison the  inhabitants  in  their  dwellings,  is  a  singular  fact  in  social  economy, 
well  worthy  of  notice.  One  of  the  most  intelligent  of  the  village  watchma- 
kers, presented  Dr.  Bowring  with  an  interesting  account  of  the  origin  and 
progress  of  this  remarkable  trade,  from  which  we  draw  the  following 
passages : 

"As  early  as  the  seventeenth  century,  some  workmen  had  constructed 
pocden  clocks,  with  weights,  after  the  model  of  the  parish  clock,  which  ^va 


74  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

placed  in  the  church  of  Locle  in  the  year  163C.  But  no  idea  had  as  yet 
been  conceived  of  making  clocks  with  springs.  It  was  only  about  the  latter 
end  of  the  same  century,  that  an  inhabitant  of  these  mountains,  having  re- 
turned from  a  long  voyage,  brought  back  with  him  a  watch,  an  object  which 
was,  till  that  time,  unknown  in  the  country.  Being  obliged  to  have  his 
watch  repaired,  he  carried  it  to  a  mechanic,  named  Richard,  who  had  the 
reputation  of  being  a  skillful  workman. 

Richard  succeeded  in  repairing  the  watch,  and  having  attentively  examined 
its  mechanism,  conceived  the  idea  of  constructing  a  similar  article.  By  dint 
of  labor  and  perseverance,  he  at  length  succeeded,  though  not  without  having 
had  great  difficulties  to  surmount,  and  he  was  compelled  to  construct  all  the 
different  movements  of  the  watch,  and  even  to  manufacture  some  ill-finished 
tools,  in  order  to  assist  him  in  his  labors.  When  this  undertaking  was  com- 
pleted, it  created  a  great  sensation  in  the  country,  and  excited  the  emulation 
of  several  men  of  genius,  to  imitate  the  example  of  their  fellow-citizen  ;  and 
thus,  very  fortunately,  watch-making  was  gradually  introduced  among  our 
mountains,  the  inhabitants  of  which  had,  hitherto,  exercised  no  other  trade 
or  profession,  than  those  which  were  strictly  necessary  to  their  daily  wants; 
their  time  being  principally  employed  in  cultivating  an  ungrateful  and  unpro- 
ductive soil.  Our  mountaineers  were  frequently  compelled,  before  the  intro- 
duction of  the  above-named  industry,  to  seek  for  work  during  the  summer 
months,  among  the  people  of  the  surrounding  country.  They  rejoined  their 
families  in  the  winter,  being  enabled,  from  their  economical  savings,  the  mod- 
erateness of  their  wants,  and  the  produce  of  a  small  portion  of  land,  to 
supply  themselves  with  the  necessaries  of  life.  And  it  must  be  remarked, 
also,  that  the  entire  liberty  which  they  enjoyed,  united  to  the  absence  of 
any  description  of  taxation,  greatly  tended  to  relieve  the  hardships  of 
their  lot. 

For  a  number  of  years,  those  who  betook  themselves  to  watch-making, 
were  placed  at  a  great  disadvantage,  by  having  to  import  their  tools,  but 
these,  they  in  time  learned  to  make,  and  greatly  improve  upon.  In  propor- 
tion as  men  embraced  the  profession  of  watch- making,  the  art  became  more 
developed;  several  returned  from  Paris,  where  they  had  gone  to  perfect 
themselves,  and  contributed,  by  their  knowedge,  to  advance  the  general  skill. 
It  is  not  more  than  eighty  or  ninety  years  since  a  few  merchants  began  to 
collect  together  small  parcels  of  watches,  in  order  to  sell  them  in  foreign 
markets.  The  success  which  attended  these  speculations,  induced  and  en- 
couraged the  population  of  these  countries  to  devote  themselves  still  more  to 
the  production  of  articles  of  ready  sale ;  so  much  so,  that  very  nearly  the 
whole  population  has,  with  a  very  few  exceptions,  embraced  the  watch-making 
trade.  Meanwhile,  the  population  has  increased  three-fold,  independently  of 
the  great  number  of  workmen  who  are  established  in  almost  all  the  towns  of 
Europe,  in  the  United  States,  and  even  in  the  East  Indies,  and  China.  It  is 
from  this  period,  also,  that  dates  the  change  which  has  taken  place  in  the 
country  of  Neufchatel,  where,  notwithstanding  the  barrenness  of  the  soil, 
and  the  severity  of  the  climate,  beautiful,  and  well-built  village*  are  every- 
where to  be  seen,  connected  by  easy  communications,  together  with  a  veiy 


121   SWITZERLAND.  75 

considerable  and  industrious  population,  in  the  enjoyment,  if  not  cf  great 
fortunes,  at  least,  of  a  happy  and  easy  independence. 

Thus,  in  defiance  of  the  difficulties  which  it  was  necessary  to  overcome,  in 
spite  of  the  obstacles  which  were  opposed  to  the  introduction  of  the  produce 
of  our  industry  into  other  countries,  and  notwithstanding  the  prohibitions 
which  enfeebled  its  development,  it  has,  at  length,  attained  a  prodigious  ex- 
tension. It  may  be  further  remarked,  that  from  the  upper  valleys  or  Neuf- 
chatel,  where  it  originated,  it  has  spread  from  east  to  west,  into  the  valleys 
of  the  Jura,  and  into  the  cantons  of  Berne  and  Vaud  ;  and  further,  that  all 
these  populations,  form  at  present,  a  single  and  united  manufactory,  whose 
center  and  principal  focus,  is  in  the  mountains  of  Neufchatel." 

The  manufacture  of  wooden  toys,  such  as  small  carved  figures  and  boxes, 
is  also  carried  on  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  Switzerland,  many  of  the  rural 
laborers  employing  themselves  on  these  articles,  at  leisure  hours,  and  partic- 
ularly during  the  winter  season,  when  out-door  labor  is  stopped.  Among 
the  hills  near  Unterseen,  and  Interlaken,  we  have  rb&erved  a  number  of 
these  interesting  domestic  manufactories,  by  ^hich,  at  little  cost,  many 
comforts  are  procured. 

Appenzell  takes  the  lead  in  cotton  manufactures,  and  Zurich,  in  the  spin- 
ning and  weaving  of  silk.  It  is  most  extraordinary,  how  the  manufacture  of 
these  bulky  articles  should  prosper,  considering  the  distance  of  the  country 
from  the  sea.  Surrounded  by  hostile,  or  at  least,  ..-ival  and  jealous  neighbors, 
and  with  a  long  land  carriage,  on  which  heavy  tolls  are  imposed,  to  and  from 
seaports,  the  Swiss  still  contrive  to  carry  on  a  successful  foreign  trade,  and 
even  out-do  the  French  and  Germans,  in  point  of  skill  and  cheapness.  The 
whole  social  condition  of  the  Swiss  is  curious.  The  bulk  of  the  country  is 
divided  into  small  possessions,  each  cultivated  or  superintended  by  its  pro- 
prietor. There  are  few  persons  with  large  estates  ;  and  "  landed  gentlemen," 
as  they  are  termed  in  England,  are  almost  unknown.  The  rural  population, 
therefore,  whether  agriculturists,  in  the  valleys  or  plains,  or  sheep,  or  neat- 
herds, among  the  hills,  are,  for  the  greater  part,  only  a  superior  kind  of 
peasants,  few  of  whom  possess  the  wealth  or  comforts  of  modern  Scotch 
farmers.  In  some  districts  the  people  unite  the  character  of  agriculturists 
and  artisans.  On  certain  days  or  seasons,  or  at  certain  hours,  they  work  on 
their  little  farms,  and  the  rest  of  the  time  is  employed  in  weaving,  toy-making, 
or  in  some  other  handicraft.  Instead  of  confining  themselves  to  towns,  the 
Swiss  operatives  prefer  working  in  villages,  or  in  cottages,  scattered  on  the 
fa:e  of  the  hills  ;  for  there  they  are  near  the  gardens  or  fields,  which  they 
delight  in  cultivating,  and  there  they  can  inexpensively  keep  a  cow,  goat,  or 
pig.  A  great  number  have  goats,  for  the  sake  of  the  milk,  and  because  their 
keep  is  next  to  nothing,  in  the  way  of  outlay. 

The  diligence  with  which  the  families  of  Swiss  workmen  pursue  their 
labors  in  and  out  of  doors  at  these  rural  retreats,  is  spoken  of  by  all  travelers 
as  a  kind  of  wonder ;  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  Zurich,  it  appears  in  its 
most  captivating  form.  Wandering  up  the  slopes  of  the  h'.ils,  we  perceive 
numerous  clusters  of  cottages,  inhabited  principally  by  weavers,  from  which 


76  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

the  sound  of  the  shuttle  is  heard  to  proceed.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  the 
cottages  are  chiefly  of  wood,  but  substantial,  and  are  generally  ornamented 
with  vines  clinging  to  the  picturesque  eaves  of  the  roof.  All  around  are 
patches  of  gardens,  or  small  inclosed  fields,  sufficient,  probably,  to  pasture 
one  or  two  goats,  with  some  ground  under  crops  of  potatoes.  Industry  is 
everywhere  observable.  If  the  husband  is  at  the  loom,  his  wife  is  out  of 
doors  at  the  yotatoe  ridges,  a  girl  is  winding  bobbins,  and  a  boy  is  attending  the 
goats.  Eaby  leads  the  only  sinecure  life,  and  is  seen  sprawling  at  his  ease 
on  a  cushion  laid  on  the  ground,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  mother.  The 
people  in  this  way  are  constantly  at  work.  They  may  be  seen  laboring  in 
the  fields  before  sunrise,  and  after  sunset.  With  all  their  labor,  in  and  out 
of  doors,  families  do  not  realize  above  eight  or  nine  shillings  each,  weekly. 
Provisions  are  cheaper  than  in  England,  and  the  taxes  are  few  and  light ; 
but  with  these  advantages  in  their  favor,  the  Swiss  do  not  realize  so  high  a 
remuneration  as  English  operatives.  Yet  with  their  few  shillings  weekly, 
they  are  better  off  them  workmen  in  England,  because  they  are  exceedingly 
economical.  The  Stfiss  oper?/-i\e  employs  his  spare  hours,  in  making  his 
own  or  his  children's  clothes,  ami  his  wife  and  children  are  all  productive  in 
some  humble  way;  so  that,  being  frugal  and  easily  contented,  the  family  is 
never  ill  off.  All  contrive  to  save  something.  With  their  savings  they  build 
or  buy  a  cottage,  and  purchase  a  piece  of  ground,  and  to  attain  this  amount 
of  riches — to  have  this  substantial  stake  in  the  country — is  their  highest 
ambition. 

The  most  remarkable  point  in  the  social  economy  of  Switzerland,  is  the 
universal  piinciple  of  freedom  in  trade,  in  which  respect  it  has  no  parallel  on 
the  face  cf  the  earth.  A  free  export  and  import  are  permitted.  The 
government  has  no  custom-house  establishment,  either  in  reference  to  the 
general  frontiers  or  the  frontiers  of  the  respective  states  ;  the  only  impediment 
to  the  transport  of  goods,  in  any  direction,  is  the  exaction  of  tolls,  at 
the  rate  of  about  one  penny  per  hundred  weight,  for  the  benefit  of  the  can- 
tonal revenues,  from  which,  however,  the  roads  are  kept  in  repair. 

All  restrictions  on  the  importations  of  articles  from  other  countries  being 
thus  removed,  it  might  be  supposed  by  some,  that  the  country  would  be 
deluged  with  foreign  manufactures,  greatly  to  the  injury  of  native  capitalists 
and  workmen.  But  this  does  not  appear  to  be  the  case.  In  several  branches 
of  manufacture  the  Swiss  excel ;  and  the  opportunity  of  buying  certain  kinds 
of  foreign  produce,  at  a  particularly  cheap  rate,  enables  the  people  to  en- 
courage the  growth  of  other  manufactures  in  their  own  country.  The 
peasant  who  buys  an  P^nglish-made  knife  at  half  what  he  could  buy  a  Swiss  one 
for,  has  a  half  of  his  money  remaining,  wherewith  to  purchase  a  native- 
made  ribbon  ;  hence  Swiss  manufactures  of  one  kind  or  other,  are  sure  to  be 
encouraged. 

Switzerland  is  celebrated  for  a  class  of  melodies  called  the  Ranz  de  Vaches, 
which  are  peculiar  to  her  Alpine  valleys.  Almost  every  valley  has  an  air 
of  ifs  own,  but  the  original  air  is  said  to  be  that  of  Appenzell.  Their  effect 
in  producing  home  sickness  in  the  heart  of  the  Swiss  mountaineer,  when 


IJN  SWITZERLAND.  77 

heard  in  a  distant  land,  and  the  prohibition  of  this  music  in  the  Swiss  regi- 
ments in  the  service  of  France,  on  account  of  the  number  of  deserters  oc* 
casioned  by  it,  is  well  known. 

These  national  airs  are  particularly  wild  in  their  character,  yet  full  of 
melody  ;  the  choruses  consist  of  a  few  remarkable  shrill  notes,  uttered  with 
a  peculiar  falsetto  intonation  in  the  throat.  They  originate  in  the  practice  of 
the  shepherds  on  the  Alps,  of  communicating  with  another  at  the  distance  of 
a  mile  or  more,  by  pitching  the  voice  high.  The  name,  "  Ranz  de  Vaches," 
signifying  "  cow  rows,"  is  derived  from  the  order  in  which  the  cows  march 
home  at  milking  time,  in  obedience  to  the  shepherd's  call,  communicated  by 
the  voice  or  through  the  Alp-horn:  this  is  a  simple  tube  of  wood,  wound 
round  with  bark,  five  or  six  feet  long,  admitting  of  but  slight  modulation, 
yet  very  melodious  when  caught  up  and  prolonged  by  the  mountain  echoes. 

In  some  of  the  remoter  pastoral  districts  of  Switzerland,  from  which  the 
ancient  simplicity  of  manners  is  not  altogether  banished,  the  Alp-horn  sup- 
plies, in  the  higher  pastures,  where  no  church  is  near,  the  place  of  the  vesper 
bell.  The  cowherd,  posted  on  the  highest  peak,  as  soon  as  the  sun  h?.«  jtt, 
pours  forth  the  first  four  or  five  notes  of  the  psalm,  "  Praise  God  the  Lord." 
the  same  notes  are  repeated  from  distant  Alps,  and  all  within  hearing,  un 
covering  their  heads  and  bending  their  knees,  repeat  their  evening  crison, 
after  which  the  cattle  are  penned  in  their  stalls,  and  the  shepherds  betake 
themselves  to  rest. 

The  traveler  among  the  Alps,  will  have  frequent  opportunities  of  hearing, 
both  the  music  of  the  horn,  and  the  songs  of  the  cowherds  and  dairy-maids; 
the  latter  have  been  thus  described  by  Southey  :  "  Surely  the  wildest  chorus 
that  ever  was  heard  by  human  ears,  a  song,  not  of  articulate  sounds,  but  in 
which  the  voice  is  used  as  mere  instrument  of  music,  more  flexible  than  any 
which  art  could  produce,  sweet,  powerful,  and  thrilling  beyond  description." 

The  region  about  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  in 
Switzerland,  and  the  lake  itself  the  finest  in  the  country.  It  is  called  ths 
Lake  of  the  Four  Cantons — Uri,  Schwytz,  Unterwalden,  and  Lucerne,  which 
it  laees,  and  is  the  geographical  and  historical  center  of  Switzerland.  It  was 
here  that  occurred  those  heroic  scenes,  which  have  associated  the  name  of 
Tell,  with  those  of  Wallace  and  Washington,  as  the  preservers  of  their  re- 
spective countries,  from  the  grasp  of  foreign  tyrants.  Not  much  is  really 
known  of  this  patriot,  but  the  little  that  has  been  wafted  by  history  and  tra- 
dition, to  our  times,  is  interesting,  and  possesses  all  tho  charms  of  poetry  and 
romance.  This  Swiss  hero  was  born  in  the  canton  of  Uri,  near  the  Lake 
of  Lucerne,   about  the  the  year  1275,   and  was,  by  profession,  a  farmer. 

The  ancient  city  of  Lucerne  is  beautifully  situated,  with  the  lake  on  the 
south-east.  A  fertile  country  lies  in  its  rear  and  on  both  sides,  while  Mount 
Pilate  rises  in  grand  gloom  on  its  right,  and  the  Righi  mountain,  with  its 
cheerful  verdure,  in  front. 

The  great  curiosity  of  Lucerne  are  its  two  bridges  over  the  Reuss.  One  of 
them  called  the  Cathedral  bridge,  thirteen  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  length, 
is  hung  with  two  hundred  and  forty  pictures,  representing  the  whole  Scripture 
history :  scenes  from  the  Old  Testament  are  arranged  on  one  side,  and  sub- 


78  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

tiously  displaying  an  extensive  supply  of  rope  wherewith  to  hang  th*..  chiefs 
of  the  rebels — a  hasty  reckoning  of  victory,  which  reminds  us  of  similar  con- 
duct and  similar  results  when  Wallace  repulsed  the  invaders  of  Scotland. 

The  confederates,  in  whose  ranks  were  William  Tell  and  Furst,  in  order  to 
oppose  this  formidable  invasion,  occupied  a  position  in  the  mountains  border- 
ing on  the  convent  of  our  Lady  of  the  Hermits.  Four  hundred  men  of  Uri, 
and  three  hundred  of  Unterwalden,  had  effected  a  junction  with  the  warriors 
of  Schwytz,  who  formed  the  principal  numerical  force  of  this  little  army. 
Fifty  men,  banished  from  this  latter  canton,  offered  themselves  to  combat 
beneath  their  native  banner,  intending  to  efface,  by  their  valor  and  conduct, 
the  remembrance  of  their  past  faults.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  of 
November,  1315,  some  thousands  of  well-armed  Austrian  knights  slowly  as- 
cended the  hill  on  which  the  Swiss  were  posted,  with  the  hope  of  dislodging 
them  ;  the  latter,  however,  advanced  to  meet  their  enemies,  uttering  the  most 
terrific  cries.  The  band  of  banished  men,  having  precipitated  huge  stones 
and  fragments  of  rocks  from  the  hill-sides,  and  from  overhanging  cliffs, 
rushed  from  behind  the  sheltering  influence  of  a  thick  fog,  and  threw  the  ad- 
vancing host  into  confusion.  The  Austrians  immediately  broke  their  ranks, 
and  presently  a  complete  route,  with  terrible  slaughter,  ensued.  The  con- 
federates marched  boldly  on,  cheered  by  the  voice  and  example  of  Henry  of 
Ospenthal,  and  one  of  the  sons  of  old  Redding  of  Biberegg. 

The  flower  of  the  Austrian  chivalry  perished  on  the  field  of  Morgarten, 
beneath  the  halberts,  arrows,  and  iron-headed  clubs  of  the  shepherds.  Leo- 
pold himself,  though  he  succeeded  in  gaining  the  shattered  remnant  of  his 
forces,  had  a  narrow  escape  ;  while  the  Swiss,  animated  by  victory,  hastened 
to  Unterwalden,  where  they  defeated  a  body  of  Lucernois  and  Austrians. 
In  this  instance  Count  Otho  had  as  narrow  an  escape  as  the  emperor.  After 
these  two  well-fought  fields,  the  confederates  hastened  to  renew  their  ancient 
alliance,  which  was  solemnly  sworn  to  in  an  assembly  held  at  Brunnen  on 
the  8th  day  of  December. 

All  that  remains  to  be  told  of  the  Swiss  hero's  life  is  the  immemorial  tradi- 
tion, that  William  Tell,  the  same  who  shot  Gessler  in  1307,  assisted  at  a 
general  meeting  of  the  commune  of  Uri  in  1337,  and  perished  in  1350  by  an 
inundation  which  destroyed  the  village  of  Biirglen,  his  birthplace.  Accord- 
ing to  Klingenberg's  chronicle,  however,  written  toward  the  close  of  the 
fourteenth  century,  when  many  of  his  cotemporaries  were  still  living,  Wilhel- 
mus  Tellus  of  Uri,  as  he  calls  him,  the  liberator  of  his  country,  became, 
after  the  battle  of  Morgarten,  administrator  of  the  affairs  of  the  church  of 
Beringer,  where  he  died  in  1354." 

The  ancient  city  of  Lucerne  is  beautifully  situated,  with  the  lake  on  the 
south-east.  A  fertile  country  lies  in  its  rear,  and  on  both  sides,  while  Mount 
Pilate  rises  in  grand  gloom  on  its  right,  and  the  Righi  mountain,  with  its 
cheerful  verdure  in  front. 

The  great  curiosity  of  Lucerne  are  its  two  bridges  over  the  Reuss.  One  of 
them,  called  the  Cathedral  bridge,  thirteen  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  length, 
is  hung  with  two  hundred  and  forty  pictures,  representing  the  whole  Scripture 
history :  scenes  from  the  Old  Testament  are  arranged  on  one  side,  and  sub 


IN  SWITZERLAND.  79 

jects  from  the  new,  on  the  other.  The  other  bridge  is  hung  with  oil  paintings, 
representing  all  the  heroic  events  in  Swiss  history.  In  a  garden  near  the 
town  is  a  monument,  designed  by  Thorswalden,  to  the  memory  of  the  Swiss 
guards,  who  fell  in  defending  the  Tuilleries,  on  the  10th  of  August,  1792. 
It  is  hewn  out  of  solid  rock,  and  represents  a  lion  dying,  wounded  by  an 
arrow,  and  seeming  in  the  agonies  of  death,  to  protect  the  Bourbon  fleur-de- 
lis.  The  figure  is  twenty-eight  feet  long,  and  eighteen  high.  It  bears  the 
inscription  "  Helvetiorum  fdei  ac  virtuti."  i.  e.  "  To  the  faith  and  virtue  of  the 
Helvetians,"  together  with  the  names  of  the  brave  officers  and  men  who  fell  on 
that  bloody  occasion,  while  faithfully  defending  a  feeble  and  unworthy  master. 

In  the  town  arsenal  are  relics  of  the  ancient  heroism  of  Switzerland,  among 
which  is  the  sword  of  William  Tell,  and  a  statue  of  Arnold  de  Winkelreid,  of 
Unterwalden.  The  name  of  Winkelreid  is  associated  with  an  amazing  act  of 
heroic  self-sacrifice,  one  unequaled  in  the  whole  range  of  modern  history. 

At  the  battle  of  Sempach,  the  Austrian  hosts,  four  to  one  of  the  Swiss,  had 
long  withstood  their  attacks,  when  Winkelreid  exclaimed,  "  I  will  open  you 
a  passage,  only  protect  my  wife  and  children  !  then  springing  forward,  he 
seized  in  both  arms,  as  many  of  the  enemy's  spears  as  he  was  able,  buried 
them  in  his  body,  and  sank  to  the  ground,  while  his  companions  rushed  for- 
ward to  victory  through  the  breach  over  his  dead  body  ! 

Mount  Pilate  occupying  a  point  beyond  the  termination  of  the  Alpnach 
arm  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  is,  in  many  respects,  an  interesting  mountain. 
There  is  a  small  lake  near  its  summit,  which  Pontius  Pilate,  who  is  said  to 
have  resided  in  Switzerland,  after  he  was  banished  by  Tiberias  into  Gaul, 
stung  with  remorse,  plunged  into,  and  perished. 

Upon  this  mountain  was  constructed,  many  years  ago,  a  great  and  useful 
work,  the  slide  of  Alpnach,  for  facilitating  the  descent  of  timber. 

On  the  south  side  of  Pilatus  are  great  forests  of  spruce  fir,  consisting  of 
the  finest  timber,  but  in  a  situation  which  the  height,  the  steepness,  and  the 
ruggedness  of  the  ground,  seemed  to  render  inaccessible.  They  had  rarely 
been  visited  but  by  the  chamois  hunters,  and  it  was  from  them,  indeed,  that 
the  first  information  concerning  the  size  of  the  trees,  and  the  extent  of  the 
forest  appears  to  have  been  received.  These  woods  are  in  the  canton  of  Un- 
terwalden, where  there  are  no  manufactures,  little  accumulation  of  capital, 
and  no  commercial  enterprise.  In  the  possession  of  such  masters,  the  lofty 
firs  of  Pilatus  were  likely  to  remain  long  the  ornaments  of  their  mountains. 

Mr.  Rupp,  however,  a  native  of  Wirtemberg,  and  a  skillful  engineer,  in 
which  profession  he  had  been  educated,  indignant  at  the  political  changes 
effected  in  his  own  country,  was  induced  to  take  refuge  among  a  free  peo- 
ple, and  came  to  settle  in  the  cai>*on  of  Schwytz,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Lake  of  Lucerne.  The  accounts  which  he  heard  there  of  the  forest  just  men- 
tioned, determined  him  to  visit  it,  and  he  was  so  much  struck  by  its  appear- 
ance, that  long  and  rugged  as  the  descent  was,  he  conceived  the  bold  project 
of  bringing  down  the  trees,  by  no  other  force  than  their  own  weight,  into  the 
Lake  of  Lucerne,  from  whence  the  conveyance  to  the  German  ocean  was 
easy  and  expeditious.  A  more  accurate  survey  of  the  ground  convinced  hin? 
of  the  practicability  of  the  project. 


go  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

He  had  by  this  time  resided  long  enough  in  Switzerland,  to  have  both  \»M 
talents  and  integrity  in  such  estimation,  that  he  was  able  to  prevail  on  r 
number  of  the  proprietors  to  form  a  company,  with  a  joint  stock,  to  be  laid 
out  in  the  purchase  of  the  forest,  and  in  the  construction  of  the  road  along 
which  it  was  intended  that  the  trees  should  slide  down  into  the  lake  of  Lu- 
cerne, the  arm  of  which,  fortunately,  approaches  quite  near  to  the  bottom  of 
the  mountain.  The  sum  required  for  this  purpose  was  very  considerable  foi 
that  country,  amounting  to  nine  or  ten  thousand  pounds  ;  three  thousand 
pounds  to  be  laid  out  in  the  purchase  of  the  forest  from  the  community  of 
Alpnach,  the  proprietors  of  it,  and  the  rest  being  necessary  for  the  construc- 
tion of  the  singular  railway  by  which  the  trees  were  to  be  brought  down. 

The  distance  which  the  trees  had  to  be  conveyed  is  forty-six  thousand  feet. 
The  horizontal  distance  just  mentioned  is  forty-four  thousand  two  hundred 
and  fifty-two  feet — eight  English  miles  and  about  three  furlongs.  The  decli- 
vity is,  therefore,  one  foot  in  1768  ;  the  medium  angle  of  elevation  3°  14'  20." 

This  declivity,  though  so  moderate  on  the  whole,  was  in  many  places  very 
rapid.  At  the  beginning  the  inclination  was  about  one-fourth  of  a  right 
angle,  or  about  22°  30' ;  in  may  places,  20°,  but  nowhere  greater  than  the 
angle  first  mentioned,  22°  30'.  The  inclination  continued  of  this  quantity 
for  about  500  feet,  after  which  the  way  was  less  steep,  and  often  considerably 
circuitous,  according  to  the  directions  which  the  ruggedness  of  the  ground 
forced  it  to  take. 

Along  this  line  the  trees  descended  in  a  sort  of  trough  built  in  a  cradle 
form,  and  extending  from  the  forest  to  the  edge  of  the  lake.  Three  trees 
squared,  and  laid  side  by  side,  formed  the  bottom  of  the  trough  ;  the  tree  in 
the  middle  having  its  surface  hollowed,  so  that  a  rill  of  water,  received  from 
distance  to  distance,  over  the  side  of  the  trough,  might  be  conveyed  along 
the  bottom,  and  preserve  it  moist.  Adjoining  to  the  central  part  (of  the 
trough),  other  trees,  also  squared,  were  laid  parallel  to  the  former,  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  form  a  trousrh  rounded  in  the  interior,  and  of  such  dimen- 
sions  as  to  allow  the  largest  trees  to  lie,  or  to  move  quite  readily.  When  the 
direction  of  the  trough  turned,  or  had  any  bending,  of  which  there  were 
many,  its  sides  were  made  higher  and  stronger,  especially  on  the  convex  side, 
or  that  from  which  it  bent,  so  as  to  provide  against  the  trees  bolting  or  flying 
out,  which  they  sometimes  did,  in  spite  of  every  precaution.  In  general,  the 
trough  was  from  five  to  six  feet  wide  at  top,  and  from  three  to  four  in  depth  ; 
varying,  however,  in  different  places,  according  to  circumstances. 

This  singular  road  was  constructed  at  considerable  expense  ;  though,  as  it 
went  almost  for  its  whole  length  through  a  forest,  the  materials  of  construe- 
tion  were  at  hand,  and  of  small  value.  It  contained  30,000  trees  ;  was  in 
general  supported  on  cross  timbers,  that  were  themselves  supported  by  up- 
rights fixed  in  the  ground.  It  crossed  in  its  way  three  great  ravines  ;  one  at 
the  height  of  sixty-four  feet,  another  at  the  height  of  one  hundred  and  three, 
and  a  third,  where  it  went  along  the  face  of  a  rock,  at  that  of  157.  In  two 
places  it  was  conveyed  under  ground.     It  was  finished  in  1812. 

The  trees  which  descend  by  this  conveyance  were  spruce-firs,  very  straight, 
and  of  great  size.     All  their  branches  were  lopped  off,  stripped  of  the  bark 


IN  SWITZERLAND.  gj 

*nd  the  surface,  of  course,  made  tolerably  smooth.  The  trees  or  logs,  of 
which  the  trough  was  built,  were  dressed  with  the  ax,  but  without  much 
care. 

All  being  thus  prepared,  the  tree  was  launched  with  the  root  end  foremost; 
into  the  steep  part  of  the  trough,  and  in  a  few  seconds  acquired  such  a  velo- 
city as  enabled  it  to  reach  the  lake  in  the  short  space  of  six  minutes  ;  a  result 
altogether  astonishing,  when  it  is  considered  that  the  distance  is  more  than 
eight  miles,  that  the  average  declivity  b  but  one  foot  in  seventeen,  and  that 
the  route  which  the  trees  have  to  follow  is  often  circuitous,  and  in  some 
places  almost  horizontal. 

Where  large  bodies  are  moved  with  such  velocity  as  has  now  been  de- 
scribed, and  so  tremendous  a  force  of  course  produced,  everything  had  need 
to  be  done  with  the  utmost  regularity,  every  obstacle  carefully  removed,  that 
can  obstruct  the  motion,  or  that  might  suffer  by  so  awful  a  collision.  Every- 
thing, accordingly,  with  regard  to  launching  off  the  trees,  was  directed  by 
telegraphic  signals.  All  along  the  slide,  men  were  stationed  at  different 
distances,  from  half  a  mile  to  three  quarters,  or  more,  but  so  that  every 
station  might  be  seen  from  the  next,  both  above  and  below.  At  each  of 
these  stations  also,  was  a  telegraph,  consisting  of  a  large  board  like  a  door, 
that  turned  at  its  middle,  on  a  horizontal  axle.  When  the  tree  was  launched 
from  the  top,  a  signal  was  made  by  turning  the  board  upright,  the  same  was 
followed  by  the  rest,  and  thus  the  information  is  conveyed,  almost  instanta- 
neously, all  along  the  slide,  that  a  tree  was  on  its  way.  By-and-by,  to  any 
one  that  is  stationed  on  the  side,  even  to  those  at  a  great  distance,  the  same  was 
announced  by  the  roaring  of  the  tree  itself,  which  became  always  louder  and 
louder ;  the  tree  came  in  sight,  when  it  was  perhaps  half  a  mile  distant,  and 
in  an  instant  after  shot  past,  with  the  noise  of  thunder  and  the  rapidity  of 
lightning.  As  soon  as  it  had  reached  the  bottom,  the  lowest  telegraph  was 
turned  down,  the  signal  passed  along  all  the  stations,  and  the  workmen  at 
the  top  were  informed  that  the  tree  had  arrived  in  safety.  Another  was  set 
off  as  quickly  as  possible,  the  moment  was  announced  as  before,  and  the 
same  process  repeated,  till  the  trees  that  had  been  got  in  readiness  for  that 
day  had  been  sent  down  into  the  lake. 

The  trees  thus  brought  down  into  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  were  formed  into 
rafts,  and  floated  down  the  very  rapid  stream  of  the  Reuss,  by  which  the 
lake  discharges  its  water,  first  into  the  Aar,  and  then  into  the  Rhine.  By 
this  conveyance,  which  is  all  of  it  in  streams  of  great  rapidity,  the  trees 
sometimes  reached  Basle  in  a  few  days  after  they  had  left  Lucerne,  and  there 
the  intermediate  concern  of  the  Alpnach  company  terminated.  They  still 
continued  to  be  navigated  down  the  Rhine  in  rafts,  to  Holland,  and  were 
afloat  in  the  German  ocean,  in  less  than  a  month  from  having  descended 
from  the  side  of  the  Pilatus,  a  very  inland  mountain,  not  less  than  a  thousand 
miles  distant.  The  Emperor  Napoleon,  had  made  a  contract  for  all  the 
timber  thus  brought  down.     This  useful  work  has  since  been  taken  down. 

If  you  are  favored  with  a  fine  clear  sunrise,  then,  of  all  excursions  from 
Lucerne,  that  to  the  summit  of  the  Righi  is  unrivaled  in  the  world;  for  itr 
brauty. 

6 


82  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

We  made  our  ascent,  says  the  Rev.  George.  B.  Cheever,  in  his  Wandering-* 
of  a  Pilgrim,  in  the  afternoon,  so  as  to  be  upon  the  mountain  by  night,  ah 
ready  for  the  morning's  glorious  spectacle. 

The  sunset  was  one  of  extraordinary  splendor,  as  regards  the  clouds  and 
their  coloring  in  the  golden  west,  and  we  enjoyed  also  a  very  extensive  view, 
but  not  the  view. 

The  brow  of  the  mountain  is  as  perpendicular  as  Arthur's  Crag  at  Edin- 
burgh, almost  cresting  over  like  the  sea-surf  or  a  wave  in  mid-ocean.  In 
the  evening,  walking  along  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  the  vast  scene  is  of  a 
deep  and  solemn  beauty,  though  you  are  waiting  for  the  dawn  to  reveal  its 
several  features.  The  lights  in  so  many  villages  far  below,  over  so  great  an 
extent,  produce  a  wild  and  magic  picturesqueness.  There  at  our  left  is  Lucerne, 
here  at  our  feet  is  Kussnacht ;  a  few  steps  to  the  right,  and  Arth  is  below 
you,  with  many  glancing  lights  in  the  surrounding  chalets.  The  evening 
church  bells  are  ringing,  and  the  sound  comes  undulating  upward,  so  deep, 
so  musical.  There  is  no  moon,  but  the  stars  are  out,  and  methinks  they  look 
much  brighter,  more  startling,  more  earnest,  than  they  do  from  the  world 
below.     How  far  above  that  world  !     How  pure  and  still  the  air  around  us. 

The  summit  where  we  are  is  called  the  culm  of  the  Righi,  because  it  is  the 
culminating,  or  highest  point,  running,  with  a  turf-covered  slope,  to  the  wave- 
like summit.  A  few  steps  down  the  slope  stands  the  little  inn,  with  a  second 
rough  lodoanor-house  below,  though  the  accommodations  are  insufficient  for 
the  crowd  of  sleepers  waiting  for  the  sun. 

We  slept  little  and  unquietly,  and  we  rose  while  the  stars  were  still  bright, 
but  beginning  to  pale  a  little  in  the  east  with  the  breaking  light  of  day  ;  and 
no  man  who  has  not  been  in  the  same  situation  can  tell  the  delight  with 
which  we  threw  open  the  windows,  and  found  a  clear,  fresh,  glorious  morn- 
ing. The  sentinel  of  the  dawn,  for  the  sleepers  in  the  inn,  seized  his  long 
wooden  horn,  and  blew  a  blast,  in-doors  and  out,  to  waken  them,  and  then, 
one  after  another  emerged  into  the  open  air,  and  hastened  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  sun. 

It  was  the  sixth  of  September,  and  the  most  perfectly  beautiful  morning 
that  can  be  imagined.  At  a  quarter  past  three,  the  stars  were  reigning 
supreme  in  the  heavens,  with  just  enough  of  the  old  moon  left  to  make  a  trail 
of  light  in  the  shape  of  a  little  silver  boat  among  them.  But  speedily  the 
horizon  began  to  redden  over  the  eastern  range  of  mountains,  and  then  the 
dawn  stole  on  in  such  a  succession  of  deepening  tints,  that  nothing  but  the 
hues  of  the  preceding  sunset  could  be  more  beautiful.  But  this  is  the  great 
difference  between  the  sunrise  and  sunset,  that  the  hues  of  sunset  are  every 
moment  deepening  as  you  look  upon  them,  until  again  they  fade  into  the 
darkness  ;  while  those  of  the  sunrise  gradually  fade  into  the  light  of  day.  It 
is  difficult  to  say  which  process  is  most  beautiful  ;  for,  if  you  could  make 
everything  stand  still  around  you,  if  you  could  stereotype  or  stay  the  pro- 
cess for  an  hour,  you  could  not  tell  whether  it  were  the  morning  dawn  or  the 
evening  twiiight. 

A  few  Ion  y,  thiu  strips  of  fleecy  clouds  lay  motionless  above  the  eastern 
horizon,  }»>e  Uj^v  »f  silver  lace,  dipped  first  in  crimson,  then  n  g^l£„  ther 


IN  SWITZERLAND.  83 

m  pink,  then  lined  with  an  ermine  of  light,  just  as  if  the  moon  had  been  length  • 
ened  in  soft  furrows  along  the  sky.  This  scene  in  the  east  attracts  every  eye 
at  first,  but  it  is  not  here  that  the  glory  of  the  view  is  to  be  looked  for.  This 
glory  is  in  that  part  of  the  horizon  on  which  the  sun  first  falls,  as  he  strug- 
gles up  behind  the  mountains  to  flood  the  world  with  light.  And  the  reason 
why  it  is  so  glorious,  is,  because,  long  before  you  call  it  sunrise  in  the  east, 
be  lights  up  in  the  west,  a  range  of  colossal  pyres,  that  look  like  blazing  cres- 
sets, kindled  from  the  sky,  and  fed  with  naphtha. 

The  object  most  conspicuous,  as  the  dawn  broke,  and,  indeed  the  most 
sublimely  beautiful,  was  the  vast  enormous  range  of  the  snowy  mountains  of 
Oberland,  without  spot  or  vail  of  cloud  or  mist  to  dim  them,  the  Finsteraar- 
horn  at  the  left,  and  the  Jungfrau  and  Silberhorn  at  the  right,  peak  after 
peak,  and  mass  after  mass,  glittering  with  a  cold,  wintery  whiteness  in  the  gray 
dawn.  Almost  the  exact  half  of  the  circumference  of  the  horizon,  com- 
manded before  and  behind  in  our  view,  was  filled  with  these  masses  of  snow 
and  ice  ;  then,  lower  down,  the  mountains  of  bare  rock,  and,  lower  still,  the 
earth,  with  mounts  of  verdure ;  and  this  section  of  the  horizontal  circumfer- 
ence, which  is  filled  with  the  vast  ranges  of  the  Oberland  Alps,  being  almost 
due  west  from  the  sun's  first  appearance,  it  is  on  their  tops  that  the  rising  rays 
first  strike. 

This  was  the  scene  for  which  we  watched,  aud  it  seems  as  if  nothing  in 
nature  can  ever  again  be  so  beautiful.  It  was  as  if  an  angel  had  flown  round 
the  horizon  of  mountain  ranges,  and  lighted  up  each  of  their  white  pyra- 
midiGal  points  in  succession,  like  a  row  of  gigantic  lamps,  burning  with  rosy 
fires.  Just  as  the  sun  suddenly  tipped  the  highest  points  and  lines  of  the 
snowy  outline,  and  then,  descending  lower  on  the  body  of  the  mountains,  it 
was  as  if  an  invisible  omnipotent  hand  had  taken  them,  and  dipped  the  whole 
range  in  a  glowing  pink  ;  the  line  between  the  cold  snow,  untouched  by  the 
sunlight,  and  the  warm  roseate  hue  above,  remaining  perfectly  distinct.  This 
effect  continued  some  minutes,  becoming,  up  to  a  certain  point,  more-  and 
more  beautiful. 

We  were  like  children  in  a  dark  room,  watching  for  the  lighting  up  of 
some  great  transparency. 

It  was  as  if  we  witnessed  some  supernatural  revelation,  where  mighty 
spirits  were  the  actors  between  earth  and  heaven : 

"  With  such  ravishing  delight 
And  mantling  crimson,  in  transparent  air, 
The  splendor  shot  before  us." 

And  yet,  a  devout  soul  might  have  almost  felt,  seeing  those  fires  kindled  as 
on  the  altars  of  God  made  visible,  as  if  it  heard  the  voices  of  seraphim  crying, 
holy,  holy,  holy  is  the  Lord  of  Hosts,  the  whole  earth  is  full  of  his  glory  ! — 
for,  indeed,  the  vision  was  so  radiant,  so  full  of  sudden,  vast,  unimaginable 
beauty  and  splendor,  that  methinks  a  phalanx  of  the  sons  of  God,  who  might 
have  been  passing  at  that  moment,  could  not  have  helped  stopping  and 
shouting  for  joy,  as  on  the  morning  of  the  creation. 

This  was  the  transient  view,  which,  to  behold,  one  might  well  undertake  a 


84  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

voyage  across  the  Atlantic  :  of  a  glory  and  a  beauty  indescribable,  aod  dc ■■- 
where  else  in  the  world  to  be  enjoyed,  and  here  only  in  perfect  weather. 
After  these  few  moments,  when  the  sun  rose  so  high,  that  the  whole  masses 
of  snow  upon  the  mountain  ranges  were  lighted  with  the  same  rosy  light,  it 
grew  rapidly  fainter,  till  you  could  no  longer  distinguish  the  deep,  exquisite 
pink  and  rosy  hues,  by  means  of  their  previous  contrast  with  the  cold  white. 
Next,  the  sun's  rays  fell  upon  the  bare,  rocky  peaks,  where  there  was 
neither  snow  nor  vegetation,  making  them  shine  like  jasper,  and  next  on  the 
forest  and  grassy  slopes,  and  so  down  into  the  deep  bosom  of  the  vales.  The 
pyramidal  shadow  cast  by  the  Righi  mountain  was  most  distinct  and  beautiful, 
but  the  atmospheric  phenomenon  of  the  specter  of  the  Righi  was  not  visible. 

This  amazing  panorama  is  said  to  extend  over  a  circumference  of  300 
miles.  In  all  this  region,  when  the  upper-glory  of  the  heavens  and  moun- 
tain-peaks has  ceased  playing,  then,  as  the  sun  gets  higher,  forests,  lakes, 
hills,  rivers,  trees,  and  villages,  at  first  indistinct  and  gray,  in  shadows,  be- 
come flooded  with  sunshine,  and  almost  seem  floating  up  toward  you.  There 
was,  for  us,  another  feature  of  the  view,  constituting  by  itself,  one  of  the 
most  novel  and  charming  sights  of  Swiss  scenery,  but  which  does  not  always 
accompany  the  panorama  of  the  Righi,  even  in  a  fine  morning.  On  earth, 
the  morning  may  be  too  fine.  This  was  the  soft,  smooth,  white  body  of  mist, 
lying  on  most  of  the  lakes,  and  on  the  vales,  a  sea  of  mist,  floating,  or  rather, 
brooding,  like  a  white  dove,  over  the  landscape.  The  spots  of  land  at  first 
visible  in  the  midst  of  it,  were  just  like  islands,  half  emerging  to  the  view. 
It  lay  over  the  bay  of  Kussnacht,  at  our  feet,  like  the  white  robe  of  an  infant 
in  the  cradle,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  was  sleeping 
quietly  without  it,  as  an  undressed  babe.  Over  the  whole  of  the  Lake  of 
Zug,  the  mist  was  at  first  motionless,  but  in  the  breath  of  the  morning,  it 
began  slowly  to  move  altogether  toward  the  west,  disclosing  the  village  of 
Arth,  and  the  verdurous  borders  of  the  lake,  and  then  uncovering  its  deep 
sea-green  waters,  which  reflected  the  lovely  sailing  shadows  of  the  clouds  as 
a  mirror. 

Now  the  church-bells  began  to  chime  under  this  body  of  mist,  and  voices 
from  the  invisible  villages,  mingled  with  the  tinkle  of  sheep-bells,  and  the 
various  stir  of  life  awakening  from  sleep,  came  stilly  up  the  mountain,  and 
now,  some  of  the  mountain-peaks,  themselves,  began  suddenly  to  be  touched 
wtth  fleeces  of  clouds,  as  if  smoking  with  incense  in  morning  worship.  De- 
tachments begin,  also,  to  rise  from  the  lakes  and  valleys,  moving  from  the 
main  body  up  into  the  air.  The  villages,  chalets,  and  white  roads,  dotting 
and  threading  the  vast  circumference  of  the  landscape,  come  next  into  view; 
and  now,  on  the  Lake  of  Zug,  you  may  see  reflected  the  shadows  of  clouds, 
that  have  risen  to  the  surface,  but  are,  themselves,  below  us. 

It  is  said  you  can  see  fourteen  lakes  from  the  place  where  we  are  standing; 
I  counted  at  least  twelve,  last  evening,  before  the  night-vail  of  the  mist  had 
been  drawn  over  them,  but  this  morning,  the  goings-on  in  the  heavens,  have 
been  too  beautiful  and  grand,  to  take  time  for  counting  them.  On  the  side 
of  the  Righi,  under  the  eastern  horizon,  you  behold  the  little  Lake  of  Lo- 
wertz,  with  the  ruins  of  the  village  of  Goldau,  destroyed  by  the  slide  of  the 


W  SWITZERLAND.  85 

Rossberg,  and  you  trace  distinctly,  the  path  of  the  destroying  avalanche,  the 
vast  groove  of  bare  rock,  where  the  mountain  separated,  and  thundered 
down  the  vale.  A  little  beyond  are  the  beautiful  parks  of  Schwytz,  called 
the  Miters. 

All  this  wondrous  panorama  is  before  us.  Whatever  side  we  turn,  new 
points  of  beauty  are  disclosed.  As  the  day  advances,  every  image,  fully  de- 
fined, draws  to  its  perfect  place  in  the  picture.  A  cloudless  noon,  with  its 
still  solemnity,  would  make  visible,  for  a  short  time,  every  height  and  depth, 
every  lake,  mountain,  town,  streamlet,  and  village,  that  the  eye  could  reach, 
from  this  position,  and  then  would  pass  again  the  lovely,  successive  transitions 
of  shade  deepening  into  shade,  and  colors  richlier  burning,  into  the  blaze  of 
sunset,  and  the  soft  melancholy  twilight,  till  nothing  could  be  seen  from  our 
high  position,  but  the  stars  in  heaven.  In  a  few  hours,  we  have  witnessed, 
as  on  a  central  observatory,  what  the  poet  Young  calls — 

"  the  astonishing  magnificence 

of  unintelligible  creatiou," 

from  the  numerous  worlds  that  throng  the  firmament  at  midnight — 

Where  depth,  height,  breadth, 
Are  lost  in  their  extremes,  and  where  to  count 
The  thick-sown  glories  in  this  field  of  fire, 
Perhaps  a  seraph's  computation  fails," 

to  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  our  own  small  world  revealed,  when  theirs  is 
hidden,  in  the  break  of  dawn,  and  revealed  with  such  an  array  of  morning 
splendor,  that  not  even  height,  and  the  universe  of  stars,  can  be,  for  the 
moment,  a  more  entertaining  spectacle  ! 

And  for  whom  hath  God  arranged  all  this  ?  Not  for  the  angels  alor.e,  but 
for  every  eye  that  looks  to  him  in  love,  for  the  humblest  mind  and  heart  that 
can  look  abroad  and  say,  **  My  Father  made  them  all  !  He  made  them,  that 
his  children  might  love  him  in  them,  and  know  him  by  them." 

From  the  summit  of  the  Rhigi,  one  overlooks  the  beautiful  Rossberg  moun- 
tain, a  scene  of  a  dreadful  catastrophe,  only  a  few  years  ago — an  avalanche, 
by  which  three  or  four  lovely  villages  were  overwhelmed  in  one  vast  burial, 
and  four  hundred  and  fifty-seven  persons  perished. 

The  place  out  of  which  it  broke,  in  the  mountain,  is  a  thousand  feet  in 
breadth,  by  a  hundred  feet  deep,  and  this  falling  mass  extended  bodily,  for 
three  miles  in  length.  It  shot  across  the  valley  with  the  swiftness  of  a  can- 
non-ball, so  that  in  five  minutes,  the  villages  were  all  crushed,  as  if  they  had 
been  egg-shells,  or  the  mimic  toys  of  children.  And  when  the  people  looked 
toward  the  luxuriant  vale,  where  the  towns  had  lain,  smiling  and  secure,  the 
whole  region  was  a  mass  of  smoking  ruins. 

But  this  history  ought  not  to  be  related  in  any  other  language  than  the 
simple  and  powerful  narrative  of  Dr.  Zay,  of  the  neighboring  village  of 
Arth,  an  eye-witness  of  the  whole  spectacle  : 

"  The  summer  of  1806,"  says  he,  "  had  been  very  rainy,  and  on  the  first 
and  second  of  September,  it  rained  incessantlv.     New  crevices  were  observed 


gg  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

in  the  flank  of  the  mountain,  a  sort  of  cracking  noise  was  heard  internally, 
stones  started  out  of  the  ground,  detached  fragments  of  rocks  rolled  down 
the  mountain.  At  two  o'clock,  in  the  afternoon  of  the  second  of  September,  a 
large  rock  became  loose,  and  in  falling  raised  a  cloud  of  black  dust.  Toward 
the  lower  part  of  the  mountain,  the  ground  seemed  pressed  down  from  above, 
and  when  a  stick  or  a  spade  was  driven  in,  it  moved  of  itself.  A  man  who 
had  been  digging  in  his  garden,  ran  away  from  fright,  at  these  extraordinary 
appearances  ;  soon,  a  fissure,  larger  than  all  the  others,  was  observed ;  in- 
sensibly it  increased,  springs  of  water  ceased  all  at  once  to  flow;  the  pine- 
trees  of  the  forest,  absolutely  reeled  ;  birds  flew  away,  screaming.  A  few 
minutes  before  five  o'clock,  the  symptoms  of  some  mighty  catastrophe, 
became  still  stronger;  the  whole  surface  of  the  mountain  seemed  to  glide  down, 
but  so  slowly  as  to  afford  time  to  the  inhabitants  to  go  away.  An  old  man. 
who  had  often  predicted  some  such  disaster,  was  quietly  smoking  his  pipe, 
when  told  by  a  young  man,  running  by,  that  the  mountain  was  in  the  act  of 
falling  ;  he  arose,  and  looked  out,  but  came  into  his  house  again,  saying  he 
had  time  to  fill  another  pipe.  The  young' man  continuing  to  fly,  was  thrown 
down  several  times,  and  escaped  with  difficulty;  looking  back,  he  saw  the 
house  carried  off  all  at  once. 

Another  inhabitant,  being  alarmed,  took  two  of  his  children  and  ran 
away  with  them,  calling  to  his  wife  to  follow  with  the  third ;  but  she  went  in 
for  another  who  still  remained  (Marianna,  aged  five);  just  then,  Francisca 
Ulrich,  their  servant,  was  crossing  the  room  with  this  Marianna,  whom  she 
held  by  the  hand,  and  saw  her  mistress  ;  'At  that  instant,'  as  Francisca  after- 
ward said,  '  the  house  appeared  to  be  torn  from  its  foundation,  (it  was  of 
wood)  and  spun  round  and  round  like  a  teetotum;  I  was  sometimes  on  my 
head,  sometimes  on  my  feet,  in  total  darkness,  and  violently  separated  from 
the  child.'  When  the  motion  stopped,  she  found  herself  jammed  in  on  all 
sides,  with  her  head  downward,  much  bruised,  and  in  extreme  pain.  She 
supposed  she  was  buried  alive,  at  a  great  depth  ;  with  much  difficulty,  she 
disengaged  her  right  hand,  and  wiped  the  blood  from  her  eyes.  Presently, 
she  heard  the  faint  moans  of  Marianna,  and  called  her  by  her  name  ;  the 
child  answered  that  she  was  on  her  back,  among  stones  and  bushes,  which 
held  her  fast,  but  that  her  hands  were  free,  and  that  she  saw  the  light,  and 
even  something  green.  She  asked  whether  people  would  not  come  to  take 
them  out.  Francisca  answered,  that  it  was  the  day  of  judgment,  and  that  no 
one  was  left  to  help  them,  but  that  they  would  be  released  by  death,  and  be 
happy  in  heaven.  They  prayed  together.  At  last,  Francisca's  ear  was 
struck  by  the  sound  of  a  bell,  which  she  knew  to  be  that  of  Steinenberg  ; 
then  seven  o'clock  struck,  in  another  village,  then  she  began  to  hope  there 
were  still  living  beings,  and  endeavored  to  comfort  the  child.  The  poor  little  gir. 
was  at  first  clamorous  for  her  supper,  but  her  cries  soon  became  fainter,  and 
at  last  quite  died  away.  Francisca,  still  with  her  head  downward,  and  sur- 
rounded with  damp  earth,  experienced  a  sense  of  cold  in  her  feet,  almost  in- 
supportable. After  prodigious  efforts  she  succeeded  in  disengaging  her  legs, 
and  thinks  this  saved  her  life.  Many  hours  had  passed  in  this  situation, 
when  she  again  heard  the  voice  of  Marianna,  who  had  been  asleep,  and  now 


IN  oWITZERLAND.  £7 

renewed  her  lamentations.  In  the  meantime,  the  unfortunate  father,  who, 
with  much  difficulty,  had  saved  himself  and  two  children,  wandered  about 
till  daylight,  when  he  came  among  the  ruins  to  look  for  the  rest  of  his  family. 
He  soon  discovered  his  wife,  by  a  foot  which  appeared  above  ground  ;  she 
was  dead,  with  a  child  in  her  arms.  His  cries,  and  the  noise  he  made  in 
digging,  were  heard  by  Marianna,  who  called  out.  She  was  extricated  with 
a  broken  thigh,  and  saying  that  Francisca  was  not  far  off,  a  farther  search 
led  to  her  release  also,  but  in  such  a  state  that  her  life  was  despaired  of;  she 
was  blind  for  some  days,  and  remained  subject  to  convulsive  fits  of  terror. 
It  appeared  that  the  house,  or  themselves  at  least,  had  been  carried  down 
about  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  from  where  it  stood  before-. 

In  another  place,  a  child,  two  years  old,  was  found  unhurt,  lying  on  its 
straw  mattress  upon  the  mud,  without  any  vestige  of  the  house  from  which 
he  had  been  separated.  Such  a  mass  of  earth  and  stones  rushed  at  once 
into  the  Lake  of  Lowertz,  although  five  miles  distant,  that  one  end  of  it  was 
filled  up,  and  a  prodigious  wave  passing  completely  over  the  island  of  Jeh- 
wanau,  seventy  feet  above  the  usual  level  of  the  water,  overwhelmed  the 
opposite  shore,  and  as  it  returned,  swept  away  into  the  lake  many  houses  with 
their  inhabitants.  The  village  of  Siewen,  situated  at  the  farther  end,  was  in- 
undated, and  some  houses  washed  away,  and  the  flood  carried  live  fish  into 
the  village  of  Steinen.  The  chapel  of  Olten,  built  of  wood,  was  found  half 
a  league  from  the  place  it  had  previously  occupied,  and  many  large  blocks 
of  stone  completely  changed  their  position. 

The  most  considerable  of  the  villages  overwhelmed  in  the  vale  of  Arth, 
was  Goldau,  and  its  name  is  now  affixed  to  the  whole  melancholy  story  and 
place.  I  shall  relate  only  one  more  incident :  A  party  of  eleven  travelers, 
from  Berne,  belonging  to  the  most  distinguished  families  there,  arrived  at 
Arth,  on  the  second  of  September,  and  set  oft'  on  foot  for  the  Righi,  a  few 
minutes  before  the  catastrophe.  Seven  of  them  had  got  about  two  hundred 
yards  a-head — the  other  four  saw  them  entering  the  village  of  Goldau,  and 
one  of  the  latter,  Mr.  R.  Jenner,  pointing  out  to  the  rest  the  summit  of  the 
Rossberg,  (full  four  miles  off  in  a  straight  line)  where  some  strange  commo- 
tion seemed  taking  place,  which  they,  themselves,  (the  four  behind)  were  ob- 
serving with  a  telescope,  and  had  entered  into  conversation  on  the  subject, 
with  some  strangers  just  come  up ;  when,  all  at  once,  a  flight  of  stones,  like 
cannon  balls,  traversed  the  air  above  their  heads  ;  a  cloud  of  thick  dust  ob- 
scured the  valley;  a  frightful  noise  was  heard.  They  fled  !  As  soon  as  the 
obscurity  was  so  far  dissipated  as  to  make  objects  discernible,  they  sought 
their  friends,  but  the  village  of  Goldau  had  disappeared  under  a  heap  of 
stones  and  rubbish,  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  the  whole  valley  pre- 
sented nothing  but  a  perfect  chaos  !  Of  the  unfortunate  survivors,  one  lost 
a  wife,  to  whom  he  was  just  married,  one  a  son,  a  third  the  two  pupils  under 
his  care.  All  researches  to  discover  their  remains,  were,  and  have  ever  since 
been,  fruitless.  Nothing  is  left  of  Goldau,  but  the  bell  which  hung  in  its 
steeple,  and  which  was  found  about  a  mile  off.  With  the  rocks,  torrents  of 
mud  came  down,  acting  as  rollers  ;  but  they  took  a  different  direction  when 
in  the  valley,  the  mud  following  the  slope  of  the  ground  toward  the  Lake  of 


88  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

Lowertz,  while  the  rocks,  preserving  a  straight  course,  glanced  across  the 
valley  toward  the  Righi.  The  rocks  above,  moving  much  faster  than  those 
near  the  ground,  went  farther,  and  ascended  even  a  great  way  up  the  Righi; 
its  base  is  covered  with  large  blocks,  carried  to  an  incredible  height,  and  by 
which  trees  were  mowed  down  as  they  might  have  been  by  cannon." 

The  people  of  Goldau  are  said  to  have  possessed  such  interesting  qualities 
of  person  and  manners,  such  purity  and  simplicity  of  domestic  life,  as  well 
corresponded  with  the  loveliness  of  their  native  village,  and  its  surrounding 
scenery.  How  strange  and  awful  seems,  under  such  circumstances,  the 
transition  from  time  into  eternity! 


CHAPTER  II. 

Vallkt  of  Chamouni— Swiss  Peasantry — the  Mer  de  Glace — Fate  of  a  Danish  Traveler — 
Ico  Caverns — Alpine  Oasis — Excursion  to  the  Hospice  of  St.  Bernard— Dogs  of  St.  Bern- 
ard— Passage  of  Napoleon's  Army — Benevolence  of  the  Monks— the  House  of  the  Dead- 
Terrors  of  the  Splugen  Pass— De  Saussure's  Ascent  of  Mont  Blanc — Magnificent 
Exhibition. 

It  was  early  one  fine  summer  morning  that  Dr.  J.  P.  Durbin  and  party, 
left  Geneva  for  the  far-famed  vale  of  Chamouni,  at  the  base  of  Mont  Blanc. 
Their  road  followed  the  windings  of  the  Arve,  through  a  wild  and  pictur- 
esque country.  In  a  few  hours,  the  roughness  of  the  road  compelled  them 
to  change  their  carriage  for  a  kind  of  settee,  on  wheels,  called  chars  a  banc. 
The  scenery  became  more  and  more  wild,  and  on  all  sides  arose  gigantic 
Alps,  shrouded  in  mists,  which  occasionally  partially  dispersed,  and  disclosed 
their  lofty  pinnacles  piercing  the  skies. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Arve,  a  few  peasants'  dwellings  were  occasionally 
passed.  These  were  low  stone  cottages,  surmounted  by  wooden  attics,  and 
with  small  windows  barred  with  iron.  Under  their  wide  projecting  eaves, 
were  heaped  piles  of  wood,  and  often  large  ovens  were  seen,  where  the  bread 
of  a  whole  neighborhood  was  baked  semi-weekly,  as  is  the  custom  of  these 
regions.  They  saw  women  mowing  in  the  fields,  who  wielded  their  scythes  as 
easily,  and  cut  as  broad  a  swarth  as  the  most  expert  men. 

At  Chamouni,  they  passed  the  succeeding  day,  in  gazing  at  the  beaut}r 
and  the  sublimity  of  the  Alpine  world — at  the  green  fields  of  this  charming 
vale,  the  sombre  evei'green  forests,  at  the  bases  of  the  mountains,  the  pictur- 
esque cottages  and  hamlets,  above  all  which,  rose,  robed  in  eternal  ice  and 
snow,  the  lofty  summits  of  giant  mountains. 

On  the  7th  of  July,  the  party  made  an  excursion  to  the  "  Mer  de  Glace," 
or  sea  of  ice,  an  enormous  glacier,  situated  far  up  the  mountains.  It  is 
twenty-five  miles  long,  and  two  and  a  half  broad,  and  from  the  side  of 
Mont  Blanc,  descends  slopes  and  through  ravines. 

After  breakfast  they  started  on  mules,  proceeding  along  in  single  files,  and 
accompanied  by  their  guide,  and  a  boy  with  iron-pointed  ice-pikes.  When 
half  way  to  the  glacier  they  turned  to  gaze  back  at  the  valley  they  had  left, 
when  they  saw  the  fields  of  grain  dwindled  to  the  apparent  size  of  the 
squares  of  a  chess  board,  the  dwellings  to  little  toy  houses,  which  the  Arve 


IN  SWITZERLAND.  89 

wound  between  like  a  little  silver  thread.  On  the  opposite,  and  northern 
side  of  the  valley,  the  mountains  appeared  to  bound  the  world,  for  further 
on,  all  was  sky,  save  where  miles  and  miles  distant,  one  gigantic  Alp  shot  far 
up  heavenward  its  pale  blue  crest. 

An  hour  more,  and  they  were  partaking  of  rest  and  refreshment  at  a  little 
pavilion  in  the  mountain,  and  then  again,  in  high  spirits,  started  off  on  foot, 
with  pikes  in  hand.  But  they  had  no  idea  of  the  difficulties  before  them.  In 
places,  they  were  obliged  to  edge  along  on  narrow  ledges  of  rock,  scarce  two 
inches  wide,  while  above  rose,  for  thousands  of  feet,  lofty  ledges  of  rock,  and 
below,  yawned  deep  and  awful  chasms.  The  "  Mer  de  Glace"  was  at 
length  reached  ;  but  instead  of  being  a  sea  of  smooth,  hard  ice,  it  was  found 
to  be  mostly  frozen  slush.  In  spots  it  was  solid  ice,  and  in  other  places  snow 
had  filled  up  the  chasms  in  its  surface.  It  is  frequently  difficult  to  distin- 
guish the  solid  ice  from  the  treacherous  snow.  Once  a  Danish  traveler, 
heedless  of  the  warning  of  his  guide,  while  on  a  glacier,  slipped  into  a 
chasm,  and  was  seen  no  more. 

The  chasms  descend  to  great  depths.  The  heat  of  the  earth,  and  running 
water  enlarges  them  at  their  bases  into  immense  connecting  caverns.  On 
me  occasion  Professor  Hugi,  entered  some  of  these  caverns  by  the  dried  up  bed 
of  a  rivulet,  where  he  wandered  about  for  hours,  in  places  walking  upright,  and 
in  others  compelled  to  crawl  through  narrow  fissures.  Everywhere  a  faint 
light  penetrated,  and  water  continually  dripped  upon  him  from  icicles.  The 
celebrated  Saussure,  sunk  shafts  several  hundred  feet  in  depth  into  a  glacier 
in  a  fruitless  attempt  to  ascertain  its  thickness. 

With  four  or  five  hours'  more  labor  they  came  to  a  little  Alpine  oasis, 
which  retained  its  verdure  amid  surrounding  snow  and  ice,  at  an  elevation  of 
over  8,000  feet.  Here  the  grass  was  green  and  soft,  and  wild  flowers 
bloomed ;  these  had  been  warmed  into  life  by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  collected 
by  encircling  rocks,  and  then  reflected  and  concentrated  upon  this  little  spot. 
Directly  before  them  stood  Mont  Blanc,  the  giant  of  the  Alps,  its  white, 
snowy  head  shooting  far  up  into  the  blue  sky.  Between  them  and  the 
mountain,  and  laying  upon  its  side,  was  the  "Mer  de  Glace,"  with  its  gaping 
chasms  and  pyramids  of  blue  tinted  ice.  "  Never,"  says  Dr.  Durbin,  "  had 
I  such  a  conception  of  the  wonderful  "power  of  God,  as  when  standing  in  the 
midst  of  this  Alpine  world." 

Having  returned  to  Chamouni,  the  party,  on  the  second  morning,  Left 
for  the  celebrated  Pass  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  elevated  eight  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  second  day,  they  passed  through 
Liddes,  beyond  which  point  vegetation  disappeared  ;  deep  beds  of  snow  were 
met  with,  and  all  around  was  enshrouded  in  wintery  desolation.  Continuing 
on,  they  passed  by  a  plain  wooden  cross,  and  soon  after,  met  two  of  the 
noble,  and  far-famed  dogs  of  St.  Bernard,  who  gazed  at  them  with  looks 
full  of  mildness  and  benevolence.  At  three  o'clock  that  same  afternoon,  the 
summit  of  the  pass  was  reached,  and  before  them  stood  the  object  of  their 
journey,  the  Hospice,  the  most  lofty  human  habitation  in  all  Europe. 

Through  the  Pass  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  the  Roman  legions,  two  thou- 
sand years  ago,  used  to  defile  while  crossing  the  Alps,  in  their  military 
26 


90  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

expeditions  against  the  Gothic  barbarians  of  the  North.  It  is  noted,  in  om 
times,  by  the  famous  passage  of  Napoleon's  army  of  reserve,  60,000  strong, 
when  on  its  way  to  the  bloody  field  of  Marengo.  Their  hundred  pieces  of 
artillery  were  placed  in  trees  hollowed  out,  and  each  were  drawn  over  the 
mountain  steeps,  by  the  united  strength  of  a  hundred  soldiers. 

On  a  level  spot,  on  the  summit  of  the  Pass,  stands  the  Hospice,  founded 
at  a  very  early  period,  for  the  comfort  and  safety  of  travelers,  in  their  peril- 
ous passages  over  the  mountains.  In  962,  it  was  re-established  by  St.  Ber- 
nard, and  has  been  continued  from  that  day  to  this,  a  period  of  nearly  a 
thousand  years.  About  a  dozen  monks  of  the  Augustin  order,  generally 
reside  here.  They  bind  themselves  by  a  vow  to  remain  fifteen  years,  yet  so 
severe  and  intense  is  the  cold,  that  they  seldom  live  much  over  half  that 
time.     What  a  praiseworthy  design  !     What  noble  self-denial  ! 

Every  morning,  in  winter,  a  monk  and  a  servant  descend  the  mountains 
in  every  direction,  to  hunt  for  travelers,  who  have  been  overtaken,  and  lost 
amid  storms  of  snow,  to  carry  them  to  the  Hospice,  and  minister  to  their 
wants.  Each  monk  and  servant,  is  accompanied  by  one  of  the  noble  dogs 
of  St.  Bernard.  These  animals  are  of  a  tawny  hue,  large,  and  powerful, 
and  unequaled  for  sagacity  and  aftectionateness  of  disposition.  When  they 
leave  the  Hospice  on  winter  mornings,  a  small  basketful  of  bread  and  wine, 
is  placed  around  the  neck  of  each  for  the  benefit  of  any  lost  traveler  that 
may  be  found.  Some  years  since  one  of  these  dogs,  in  a  single  da}',  saved 
the  lives  of  fifteen  persons. 

The  unfortunate  wayfarer  frequently  perishes,  ere  the  aid  of  these  benevo- 
lent monks  can  reach  him.  The  bodies  of  such  are  conveyed  to  the  morgue. 
or  dead  house,  a  small  square  stone  building,  where  if  not  claimed,  they  re- 
main, and -in  the  lapse  of  years,  gradually  fall  to  pieces.  "  It  never  thaws, 
nor  does  corruption,  or  the  worms  of  death  ever  invade  the  inmates  of  the 
cold  charnel  house  of  St.  Bernard.  It  presented  a  fearful  spectacle,"  says 
Dr.  Durbin,  "as  we  looked  through  the  grated  window;  and  I  shall  keep  the 
image  of  it  to  my  dying  day.  The  cold  earth  floor  was  strewn  with  bones, 
and  bodies  half  crumbled,  which  had  fallen  from  their  leaning  posture  by  the 
wall.  Others  stood  there  as  they  had  stood  for  years,  and  seemed  to  turn 
their  ghastly  gaze  upon  us;  one  especially,  whose  winding  sheet,  his  only  coffin, 
was  yet  perfect  around  him.  But  what  clings  most  closely  and  sadly,  is  a 
mother  and  her  infant.  She  had  clasped  her  child  to  her  bosom,  drawn  the 
skirts  of  her  gown  around  it,  pressed  her  hands  firmly  about  its  neck,  then 
looked  back  over  her  shoulder  as  if  for  help,  and  died.  There  they  stood 
before  me  just  as  they  were  found.  WTith  saddened  hearts  we  turned 
away,  and  retraced  our  steps  to  the  convent." 

Visitors  are  entertained  free  of  expense  at  the  convent ;  but  they  generally 
consider  it  their  duty  to  contribute  to  its  support,  a  little  box  being  placed 
for  that  purpose  in  the  chapel.  The  traveler  is  greeted  kindly  at  the  door 
by  a  monk,  and  conducted  to  a  cheerful  apartment  and  fire  within. 

The  monks  proved  very  amiable  and  agreeable.  Having  partaken  of  a 
comfortable  meal,  and  enjoyed  an  hour's  chat  by  the  fireside,  they  were  con- 
ducted to  their  chambers,  being  soon  ensconsed  in  the  clean  white  sheets  of 


IN  SWITZERLAND.  91 

the  excellent  beds  of  the  Hospice,  slept  finely  after  the  fatigues-  of  the 
day.  "  Next  morning,"  continues  Dr.  Durbin,  "  we  rose  early,  in  time  to 
attend  mass  in  the  chapel.  Within,  the  tones  of  the  organ  -were  sounding 
sweetly,  while  without,  the  wind  was  howling  over  the  snow-clad  mountains, 
as  it  does  on  the  wild  December  nights  at  home.  How  beautiful  it  was — the 
worship  of  God  on  this  dreary  mountain  top !  I  felt  its  beauty,  as  I  listened 
to  those  deep  organ  tones,  and  heard  the  solemn  chant  of  the  priests  in  the 
mass;  and  I  honored  in  my  heart  these  holy  men,  who  devote  themselves  to 
this  monotonous  and  self-denying  life,  in  order  to  do  good  in  the  spirit  of 
their  master,  to  the  bodies  and  the  souls  of  men.  Nor  did  I  honor  them  the 
less  that  they  were  Romanists  and  monks  of  St.  Augustin  ;  for  well  I  know 
that  for  a  thousand  years,  Romanists  and  monks  of  St.  Augustin  had  done 
the  good  deeds  that  they  were  doing,  and  that,  when  none  else  could  do 
them.  A  man  must  be  blinded  indeed  by  prejudice,  or  bigotry,  that 
cannot  see  the  monuments  of  Catholic  virtue,  and  the  evidences  of  Catholic 
piety  in  every  country  in  Europe  ;  and  worse  than  blind  must  he  be,  that  will 
not  acknowledge  and  honor  them  when  he  does  see  them." 

Where'er  we  roam — along  the  brink 
Of  Rhine,  or  by  the  sweeping  Po, 
Through  Alpine  vale  or  champaign  wide, 
What'er  we  look  on,  at  oar  side 
Be  charity  !  to  bid  us  think, 
And  feel,  if  we  would  know." 

Beside  the  St.  Bernard,  the  Simplon,  and  the  Splugen  are  the  most  cele- 
brated of  any  of  the  Alpine  passes,  on  this  frontier.  That  of  the  Splugen 
seems  to  be  shrouded  in  more  absolute  terrors  than  any  in  Switzerland. 

"  The  passage  of  the  French  general,  Macdonald,  at  the  perilous  gorge  of 
the  Cardinell  in  the  Splugen,  was  made  in  the  most  terrific  of  seasons. 
Through  this  terrific  chasm,  at  the  will  of  Napoleon,  he  undertook  a  five 
days'  fight  with  the  elements.  It  was  winter  and  storm,  but  there  was  no 
retreating.  He  advanced  with  his  army  in  the  face  of  a  cannonade  of  ava- 
lanches, on  the  brink  of  unfathomable  abysses,  where  many  a  score  of  de- 
spairing men,  and  struggling  horses,  buffeted  and  blinded  by  the  wings  of 
the  tempest,  and  wrapped  in  a  winding  sheet  of  ice  and  snow,  were  launched 
off  by  the  crashing  mountain  masses,  and  buried  forever.  Over  this  gorge, 
the  avalanches  hang,  balanced  and  brooding,  so  that  a  whisper  may  pre- 
cipitate them. 

In  the  passage  of  Macdonald's  army  through  this  frightful  region,  it  is  a 
wonder  that  whole  regiments  were  not  buried  at  once.  The  amazement  is, 
that  passing  in  a  winter's  storm,  with  avalanches  repeatedly  shooting  through 
these  columns,  so  large  a  portion  of  the  army  escaped,  not  more  than  a 
hundred  men  and  as  many  horses  being  lost.  One  of  the  drummers  of  the 
army  having  been  shot  in  a  snow  bank  from  the  avalanche  into  the  frightful 
gulf,  and  having  struggled  forth  alive,  but  out  of  sight  and  reach  of  his  com- 
rades, was  heard  beating  his  drum  for  hours  in  the  abyss,  vainly  expecting 
rescue      Poor  fellow  !  the  roll  of  his  martial  instrument  had  often  roused 


92  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

his  fellow  soldiers  with  fierce  courage  to  the  attack,  but  now  it  was  his  own 
funeral  march  that  he  was  beating,  and  it  sounded  like  a  death-summons  for 
the  whole  army  into  this  frightful  hades,  if  another  avalanche  should  thunder 
down.  There  was  no  reaching  him,  and  death,  with  icy  fingers,  stilled  the 
roll  of  the  drum,  and  beat  out  the  last  pulsation  of  hope  and  life  in  his  bosom  S 
Macdonald  was  still  struggling  on  to  Marengo.  The  army  suffered  more 
from  fatigue  and  terror  in  the  passes  than  in  all  their  battles.  Had  they 
perished  in  the  gorge  of  the  Cardinell,  the  victory  at  Marengo  would,  per- 
haps, h*we  been  changed  into  a  defeat,  which,  of  itself,  might  have  changed 
the  whole  course  of  modern  history." 

The  summit  of  Mont  Blanc,  the  giant  of  the  Swiss  mountains,  is  so  diffi- 
cult of  access,  that  it  is  only  within  the  memory  of  some  now  living,  that  its 
perils  have  been  overcome.  The  earlier  attempts,  by  different  persons,  to 
climb  to  its  summit,  are  described  by  De  Saussure.  He  himself  only  suc- 
ceeded in  the  attempt,  after  repeated  failures. 

The  first  mountaineers,  who  had  advanced  to  a  great  height  in  the  chase 
of  the  chamois,  entered,  in  1775,  into  a  valley  of  ice,  closely  shut  in  by  high 
snow  banks,  and  having  a  narrow  passage  open  at  the  further  extremity. 
The  thinness  of  the  air  at  this  great  height,  added  to  the  reflection  of  the  sun 
on  the  snow,  and  the  absence  of  circulation  of  the  atmosphere  in  the  narrow 
valley,  caused  so  suffocating  a  heat,  that,  on  observing  the  black  color  of  the 
sky — a  phenomenon  usual  at  great  elevations — through  the  opening  at  the  end 
of  the  valley,  they  were  seized  by  a  panic  fear,  and  turned  back  to  Chamouni. 
They  imagined  they  had  seen  the  entrance  of  some  awful  gulf,  or  of  the  infer- 
nal regions. 

On  the  eighth  of  June,  1786,  two  separate  parties  of  guides  had  resolved 
on  exploring  these  solitudes  :  one  man,  Jacques  Balmat,  presented  himself 
without  invitation,  an'1  followed  a  party  against  their  will.  The  expeditions 
did  not  succeed,  an'1  as  a  storm  of  snow  and  hail  had  set  in,  those  who  had 
composed  them  set  out  on  their  return  home.  Jacques  Balmat,  being  on  un- 
friendly terms  with  the  others,  kept  aloof,  and  finally  quitted  them  to  search 
for  some  crystals,  under  a  rock  at  some  distance.  On  attempting  to  rejoin 
them,  he  lost  their  trace,  and  the  storm  having  come  on,  resolved  to  spend 
the  night  alone  in  the  midst  of  the  desert,  rather  than  expose  himself  to  the 
dangers  of  a  solitary  descent,  in  the  darkness.  He  waited,  patiently,  under 
the  rock,  in  spite  of  his  suffering  from  the  cold  and  hail.  At  sunrise,  the 
weather  cleared  up,  and  he  resolved  to  devote  the  day  to  the  exploration  of 
these  vast  and  unknown  solitudes.  His  perseverance  was  rewarded,  for,  by 
dint  of  research,  he  arrived  alone  on  the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc,  by  a  road 
which  all  succeeding  travelers  have  followed,  and  which  is  certainly  the  only 
practicable  one. 

Upon  his  return  to  Chamouni,  Balmat  made  no  mention  of  his  success,  buu 
having  heard  that  Dr.  Paccard  was  about  to  make  an  attempt,  he  communi- 
cated the  secret,  and  offered  to  guide  him  to  the  summit.  In  consequence,  he 
and  Paccard  arrived  there  in  August,  1786.  De  Saussure,  who  resided  at  Ge- 
neva, was  informed  of  this  on  the  morrow,  and  set  out  immediately  for  the  spot, 
but  a  succession  of  bad  weather  during  all  the  autumn  prevented  his  ascent. 


IN  SWITZERLAND.  93 

The  next  year,  on  the  first  of  August,  De  Saussure  formed  a  caravan  of 
eighteen  guides,  furnished  with  provisions,  poles,  ropes,  ladders,  and  scien- 
tific instruments.  They  left  Chamouni  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning,  spent 
their  first  night  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain  of  Cote,  to  which  point  the 
excursion  is  always  easy;  beyond,  it  is  nothing  but  ice  and  snow,  and  full  of 
danger. 

The  next  morning,  although  all  were  eager  to  start,  some  difficulties  arose 
amongst  the  guides,  in  the  arrangement  and  division  of  their  loads.  The  fa- 
tigue of  the  burden  they  cared  not  for,  but  they  feared  that  the  accumulated 
weight  would  sink  them  through  the  snow  into  some  hidden  chasm.  They 
soon  got  on  to  the  glacier  of  the  Cote,  and  there  became  entangled  in  a  laby- 
rinth of  peaks  of  ice,  separated  by  chasms  of  great  depth.  Some  of  these 
were  very  broad  and  open.  In  such  cases,  they  had  to  descend  to  the  bottom, 
and  again  ascend  the  other  side,  by  stairs,  cut  with  a  hatchet  in  the  ice. 
Often,  on  arriving  at  the  bottom  of  such  places,  they  found  themselves  sur- 
rounded with  almost  perpendicular  walls  of  ice,  and  it  seemed  nearly  impos- 
sible for  them  to  escape  from  their  icy  prison.  In  other  cases,  these  awful 
chasms  were  concealed  by  mere  crusts  of  snow,  over  which  they  were 
obliged  to  pass.  These  intrepid  guides,  whose  lives  had  been  spent  among 
the  fearful  dangers  of  the  mountains,  so  long  as  they  walked  on  the  ice, 
though  ever  so  narrow  the  ridges,  or  slanting  the  declivities,  moved  with  firm 
and  steady  tread ;  they  laughed,  talked,  and  defied  each  other,  in  jest,  but 
when  they  passed  over  those  slight  roofs  of  snow,  suspended  across  deep 
chasms,  the  most  profound  silence  was  observed  ;  the  three  first,  tied  together 
by  a  cord,  at  spaces  six  or  eight  feet  apart ;  the  others  two  by  two,  each  holding 
by  the  end  of  a  long  stick,  their  eyes  fixed  on  their  feet,  each  endeavoring 
to  place  lightly  and  exactly,  his  foot  in  the  steps  of  the  one  who  had  gone 
before.  It  was  at  a  spot  of  this  description,  that  one  of  them,  Marie  Coutel, 
narrowly  escaped  being  lost.  He  had,  with  two  others,  been  sent  on  to  re- 
connoiter.  Suddenly,  the  snow  gave  way  beneath  him,  disclosing  an  awful 
abyss,  to  which  was  seen  neither  bottom  nor  aides,  and  all  that  saved  him 
was  the  cord  that  held  him  dangling  in  the  air,  between  his  comrades ! 

In  places,  their  course  lay  along  a  narrow  projecting  shelf  of  ice,  where, 
on  the  one  side,  rose  a  lofty  wall  of  mingled  ice  and  snow,  and  on  the  other, 
sunk  an  icy  precipice.  In  such  spots,  a  single  slip  of  the  foot  on  the  treache- 
rous material,  would  suffice  to  send  the  adventurous  traveler  a  crushed  corpse, 
upon  the  granite-like  ice,  hundreds  of  feet  below.  De  Saussure,  on  these 
occasions,  took  a  careful  survey  of  the  dangers,  that  he  might  accustom  him- 
self to  them,  for  in  advancing,  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  place  his  feet 
properly,  without  first  looking  at  the  precipice ;  and  if  this  awful  sight  was 
taken  unawares,  the  danger  he  knew  was  imminent,  of  his  being  paralyzed 
by  fear,  and  thus  losing  his  life.  He  advanced  over  these  places,  holding  on 
to  the  center  of  a  long,  straight  stick,  between  him  and  the  wall,  each  end 
of  which,  was  held  by  a  guide. 

As  they  advanced  high  up  the  mountain,  they  all  suffered  extremely  from 
the  rarity  of  the  air.  At  the  close  of  the  second  day,  they  had  reached  the 
Dome  du  Goute,  11,970  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.     Here  they  stopped 


94  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS 

to  pass  the  night.  They  had  long  and  serious  deliberations,  respecting  the 
precise  place  they  should  select  to  pitch  the  tent  they  had  brought  with 
them.  Beside  the  cold,  they  had  two  dangers  to  guard  against,  one  from 
above,  the  other  from  below — the  avalanches,  and  abysses  concealed  by  su- 
perficial snow.  The  guides  trembled  at  the  thoughts  of  the  snow,  loaded 
with  the  weight  of  nineteen  men,  collected  in  a  small  space,  and  softened  by 
the  heat  of  their  bodies,  melting,  and  giving  away  all  of  a  sudden,  and  swal- 
lowing them,  in  the  middle  of  the  night ;  and  from  the  appearance  of  the 
spot  they  first  selected,  their  indications  existed  for  this  apprehension. 
Another,  some  few  hundred  feet  distant,  seeming  to  be  free  from  these 
dangers,  the  guides  commenced  excavating  a  place  to  pitch  their  tent ;  but 
they  very  soon  felt  the  rarity  of  the  air.  Those  robust  men  had  scarcely 
thrown  up  five  or  six  shovels  of  snow,  when  they  found  it  impossible  to  con- 
tinue, from  the  difficulty  of  breathing,  and  were  obliged,  continually,  to 
relieve  each  other. 

In  high  mountains,  covered  with  snow,  the  halt,  at  the  close  of  the  day,  is 
extremely  painful.  If  you  sit  still  you  are  frozen,  and  fatigue,  joined  to  tho 
thinness  of  the  air,  deprives  one  of  the  necessary  strength  to  get  warm  by 
exercise.  This  was  the  situation  of  the  party,  who  were  impatient  to  get 
into  the  tent.  When  within  it,  their  situation  was  not  much  bettered.  The 
confined  air  created  nausea,  and  made  several  of  them  very  sick,  and  threw 
one  of  them  into  the  most  agonizing  pain.  This  illness  caused  in  them  an 
ardent  thirst,  which  they  could  only  satisfy  by  melting  snow,  in  a  chafing- 
dish,  a  slow  process  for  supplying  so  many  persons. 

The  night  was  beautiful.  The  moon  shone  with  a  brilliancy  unknown  to 
the  inhabitants  of  the  lower  world,  from  out  the  middle  of  a  sky,  dark  as 
ebony.  Jupiter  shot  forth  rays  of  light  from  behind  the  loftiest  summit  of 
Mont  Blanc,  and  the  reflected  light  from  over  this  vast  extent  of  snow,  was 
so  dazzling,  that  only  the  largest  stars  were  visible.  In  the  night,  just  as  they 
began  to  sleep,  they  were  aroused  by  the  thunder  of  an  avalanche.  It  was 
late  when  they  set  out  the  next  morning.  On  all  sides  scarce  anything  was  to 
be  seen  but  snow.  This  was  of  a  dazzling  whiteness,  and  formed  a  singular 
contrast  with  the  almost  black  sky,  always  found  on  such  high  regions. 

As  they  advanced,  the  increasing  rarity  of  the  air  became  very  painful,  and 
they  were  obliged  to  stop  and  rest  every  thirty  or  forty  paces.  They  had  not 
gone  far,  before  they  came  to  the  avalanche,  which  had  fallen  the  night  be- 
fore. Here  they  all  stopped  to  rest  their  lungs  and  limbs,  in  hopes  of  cros- 
sing it  quickly;  but  in  this  they  were  deceived.  The  sort  of  weariness  which 
proceeds  from  this  cause,  is  absolutely  insurmountable.  When  at  its  height. 
the  most  imminent  peril  fails  to  increase  one's  speed.  ButDe  Saussure  infused 
fresh  courage  into  his  guides,  by  repeatedly  telling  them  that  this  place  was 
really  the  least  dangerous,  because  all  the  loose  snow  of  the  heights  above, 
had  already  come  away. 

As  they  neared  the  summit,  their  strength  visibly  failed ;  they  could  only 
go  fifteen  or  sixteen  steps  without  stopping  to  take  breath.  De  Saussure, 
every  now  and  then,  felt  a  sort  of  fainting,  which  obliged  him  to  sit  down, 
but  as  he  recovered  his  respiration,  his  strength  returned,  and  '%  then  secmen 


IN  SWITZERLAND.  95 

as  if  he  could  get  to  the  top  at  one  stretch.  All  the  guides  were  similarly 
affected,  in  proportion  to  their  strength.  From  this  cause,  their  progress  was 
continually  slower  and  slower;  but  at  eleven  o'clock,  they  had  gained  the 
summit. 

"My  first  looks,"  says  De  Saussure,  "were  fixed  on  Chamouni,  (about 
seven  miles  distant,  in  a  straight  line)  where  I  knew  my  wife  and  her  two 
sisters  were,  with  a  telescope,  anxiously  following  all  our  steps.  I  felt  pleased 
when  I  saw  the  flag  hoisted,  the  promised  signal  the  moment  they  saw  me  on 
the  summit."  He  was  easily  distinguishable  from  his  companions,  as  he 
wore  on  this  occasion,  a  cocked  hat,  trimmed  with  gold  lace,  and  a  dress  of 
bright  scarlet. 

"  I  could  now  enjoy,"  continues  De  Saussure,  "without  regret,  the  grand 
spectacle  I  had  under  my  eyes.  I  could  hardly  believe  my  senses,  it  ap- 
peared to  me  like  a  dream,  when  I  saw  below  me  those  majestic  summits, 
whose  bases  even,  had  been,  for  me,  of  such  difficult  and  dangerous  access. 
I  seized  their  relation  to  each  other,  their  connection,  their  structure,  and  a 
single  glance  cleared  up  doubts  that  years  of  labor  had  not  been  able  to 
dissolve. 

During  this  time,  my  guides  pitched  my  tent,  and  set  out  the  little  table  on 
which  I  meant  to  make  the  experiment  of  the  boiling  of  water.  But  when  it 
was  necessary  for  me  to  dispose  of  my  instruments,  and  observe  them,  I  found 
myself  every  moment  obliged  to  suspend  my  work,  and  attend  only  to  my 
respiration.  If  it  is  considered,  that  the  air  had  little  more  than  half  of  ite 
ordinary  density,  it  may  be  seen,  that  it  was  necessary  to  supply  it  by  the 
frequency  of  inspirations.  When  I  was  perfectly  quiet,  I  felt  only  a  slight 
pain  at  my  breast;  but  when  my  attention  was  fixed  continuously,  for  some 
moments,  I  was  obliged  to  rest  to  recover  myself  again.  My  guides  felt  the 
same  sensations.  They  had  no  appetite  ;  and  to  say  the  truth,  our  provisions, 
which  were  all  frozen,  were  not  in  a  state  calculated  to  excite  one  ;  neither 
did  they  care  for  wine,  or  brandy;  indeed,  they  had  found  that  strong  liquors 
increased  this  disposition,  without  doubt,  by  increasing  the  circulation." 

De  Saussure,  in  his  narrative  of  his  ascent,  fails  to  describe  the  wonderful 
pictorial  phenomena,  he  could  not  but  have  witnessed.  Although  celebrated 
for  his  scientific  talents,  it  excites  our  pity  to  discover  that  his  mind  was  ut- 
terly destitute  in  that  appreciation  of  the  beautiful  and  the  sublime  in  nature, 
the  possession  of  which,  even  to  the  humblest  peasant,  at  times,  imparts  such 
exquisite  delight,  and  the  exhibitions  of  which,  are  not  among  the  least  of  the 
bounties  bestowed  by  a  kind  Providence,  to  cheer  the  pilgrimage  of  man, 
and  to  lift  his  thoughts  above  the  monotony  of  common  life.  Not  so  with  o 
late  traveler,  an  Englishman,  eminent  in  literature,  who  accomplished  the 
ascent  in  the  summer  of  1851,  and  who,  to  the  keenest  appreciation  of  the 
most  ethereal,  delicate,  manifestations  of  beauty  in  natural  objects,  unites  the 
power  of  describing  them,  only  less  vivid  than  reality,  because  words  are  ever 
less  vivid  than  life.  His  description  of  sunset  on  Mt.  Blanc,  is  one  of  the 
most  exquisite  word-paintings  we  have  ever  seen,  conveying  to  the  imagina- 
tion such  transcendent  views  of  the  evanescent,  changing  glories  of  the  scene, 
that  it  appears  like  a  glimpse  into  that  mysterious  unknown,  where  "  the  eye 


96  SCENES  AND  EXCURSIONS  IN  SWITZERLAND. 

hath  not  seen,  nor  the  ear  heard,  nor  the  heart  of  man  conceived,"  of  the 
visions  of  beauty,  that  awaiteth  the  coming  of  the  faithful.  We  unfold  it  to 
the  view  of  the  reader,  and  thus  close  our  article  on  Switzerland. 

"  The  sun,  at  length,  went  down  behind  the  Aiguille  du  Goute,  and  then, 
for  two  hours,  a  scene  of  such  wild  and  wondrous  beauty — of  such  incon- 
ceivable unearthly  splendor — burst  upon  me,  that,  spell-bound  and  almost 
trembling  with  the  emotion  its  magnificence  called  forth, — with  every  sense, 
and  feeling,  and  thought,  absorbed  by  its  brilliancy,  I  saw  far  more  than  the 
realization  of  the  most  gorgeous  visions  that  opium,  or  hashees,  could  evoke, 
accomplished.  At  first,  everything  about  us — above,  around,  below — the 
sky,  the  mountain,  and  the  lower  peaks — appeared  one  uniform  creation  of 
burnished  gold,  so  brightly  dazzling  that  the  eye  could  scarcely  bear  the 
splendor.  As  the  twilight  gradually  crept  over  the  lower  world,  the  glow 
became  still  more  vivid ;  and  presently,  as  the  blue  mists  rose  in  the  valleys, 
the  tops  of  the  higher  mountains  looked  like  islands  rising  from  a  filmy  ocean 
— an  archipelago  of  gold.  By  degrees,  this  metallic  luster  was  softened  into 
tints, — first  orange,  and  then  bright  transparent  crimson,  along  the  horizon, 
rising  through  the  different  hues  with  prismatic  regularity,  until,  immediately 
above  us,  the  sky  was  a  deep,  pure  blue,  merging  toward  the  east  into  glow- 
ing violet.  The  snow  took  its  color  from  these  changes  ;  and  every  portion 
on  which  the  light  fell,  was  soon  tinged  with  pale  carmine,  of  a  shade  simi- 
lar to  that  which  snow  at  times  assumes,  from  some  imperfectly  explained 
cause,  at  high  elevations — such,  indeed,  as  I  had  seen  in  early  summer,  upon 
the  Furka  and  Faulhorn.  These  beautiful  hues  grew  brighter,  as  the  twi- 
light below  increased  in  depth  ;  and  it  now  came  marching  up  the  valley  of 
the  glaciers,  until  it  reached  our  resting-place.  Higher,  and  higher  still,  it 
drove  the  lovely  glory  of  the  sunlight  before  it,  until  the  vast  D6me  de  Goute, 
and  the  summit,  itself,  stood  out,  ice-like,  and  grim,  in  the  cold  evening  air, 
although  the  horizon  still  gleamed  with  a  belt  of  rosy  light." 


A   SUMMER   TOUR 


IN 


SCOTLAND 


Battle-field  of  Culloden. 

SKETcn  of  Scotland  — Crossing  the  Atlantic— Liverpool  — The  manufacturing  districts  — 
Newcastle — Descent  into  a  coal-mine — Berwick  —  Electioneering  scene  —  English  reserve- 
Edinburgh — Ascent  of  Arthur's  seat — Charms  of  the  Scotch  dialect — Holyrood  palace — Me- 
mentoes of  Queen  Mary — Highland  village — Gaelic  song — Loch  Katrine — Lady  of  the  Lake- 
Lilliputian  steamboat — Life  in  the  Highlands — Loch  Lomond — Highland  scenery — Pleasing 
adventure — Ascent  of  Ben  Lomond — Social  condition  of  the  Scotch — Beautiful  glens — Visit 
to  Iona  and  Staffa — Great  Glen  of  Scotland — Ascent  of  Ben  Nevis — Charming  scenery — In- 
verness— Culloden  moor — Loch  Leven — Mary's  castle — Eoyal  regalia — English  aristocracy — 
Gretna  Green — Windermere. 


The  greatest  length  of  Scotland  is  280,  and  greatest  breadth  146  miles; 
its  area  about  25,u00  square  miles,  or  about  equal  to  that  of  South  Carolina. 
Generally  speaking,  it  is  so  rugged  and  sterile  that  not  more  than  one-third 
of  its  surface  is  arable.  It  contains  but  a  few  extensive  vales,  its  surface, 
even  where  most  level,  being  much  diversified  with  hill  and  dale.  Her 
natural  scenery,  as  described  by  Sir  Walter  Scott,  is-"  a  wildering  scene  of 
mountains,  rocks,  and  woods,"  and  her  glens  and  mountains,  lakes  and 
streams   teem  with   traditions  of   a  more   romantic  age,   and   are   rendered 

*  Abridged  from  "  A  Summer  in  Scotland,  by  Jacob  Abbott;"  published  by  Harper  & 
I*™.,  12  mo.  of  331  pages. 

7  97 


98 


A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND. 


immortal  by  the  eloquence  of  his  descriptions.  Originally  Scotland  ?a! 
covered  in  a  great  part  by  wood,  as  is  expressed  in  its  ancient  name  Cale- 
donia, signifying,  in  Gaelic,  a  wooded,  hilly  country.  Sixty  years  ago  the 
country  had  become  almost  entirely  bare  of  wood,  but  latterly  extensive 
plantations  have  been  formed  in  most  districts,  as  a  protection  to  the  cultivated 
lands.  Husbandry,  a  hundred  years  since,  was  in  a  very  backward  state ; 
now,  owing  to  enlightened  agriculture,  it  is  the  very  reverse.  The  chief 
grain  is  oats,  the  cultivation  of  which  covers  one-quarter  of  all  the  arable 
land ;  this  hardy  plant  furnishes  food  for  the  great  bulk  of  the  people  and  of 
all  classes  of  community. 

The  Scotch  are  of  the  same  origin  as  the  Norwegians,  Swedes,  and  Danes, 
and  are  a  large  muscular  race.  The  Scotch  figure  is  not  so  round  and  soft 
as  the  English  ;  the  face  in  particular  is  long  and  angular,  with  broad  cheek- 
bones. The  people  are  characterized  by  their  energy,  enterprise,  perseve- 
rance, and  habits  of  thrift :  caution,  foresight,  and  reflection  appear  to  be 
prominent  traits  in  them.  They  are  noted  for  their  love  of  country  and  for 
their  strong  sense  of  religion  ;  nowhere  is  the  Sabbath  observed  with  more 
decorum  than  in  Scotland.  Education  is  generally  diffused,  and  it  is  compa- 
ratively rare  to  find  a  native  unable  to  read  and  write.  Since  the  year  1600 
the  population  of  Scotland  has  increased  from  one  to  three  millions.  In  the 
north,  the  population  is  very  sparse,  averaging  in  some  districts  not  over  two 
families  to  the  square  mile. 

Scotland  is  noted  also  for  her  divines,  novelists,  and  her  poets.  The  names 
of  Knox,  Chalmers,  Scott,  Campbell,  and  Burns  are  as  familiar,  wherever 
our  language  is  spoken,  as  household  words. 

This  country  was  long  one  of  the  most  barbarous  in  Europe.  To  the 
ancient  Romans  it  was  unknown  as  a  distinct  country,  being,  with  England 
and  Wales,  received  as  one  country  under  the  general  name  of  Albion,  or  Bri- 
tain, and  divided  arnon^  a  multitude  of  different  tribes.  Its  original  inhabi* 
tants  appear  to  have  been  the  Picts  or  Caledonians,  the  ancestors  of  the  Scotch 
Highlanders.  A  few  centuries  after  the  commencement  of  the  Christian  era, 
the  country  was  successively  invaded  and  partially  conquered  by  the  Saxons 
and  by  the  Scots.  These  two  last  finally  occupied  the  southern  part  or  the 
lowlands  of  Scotland,  and  from  them  originated  the  race  later  known  as  the 
Scotch  Lowlanders.  The  original  country  of  the  Scots  was  Ireland,  which, 
in  the  fourth  century,  was  often  called  Scotland. 

"On  the  extinction  of  the  direct  line  of  the  Scottish  kings,  in  1290,  by  the 
death  of  Margaret  of  Norway,  John  Baliol  and  Robert  Bruce,  descendants 
of  David  I,  appeared  as  competitors  for  the  crown.  The  pretensions  of  both 
were  supported  by  powerful  parties,  and,  to  avoid  civil  war,  it  was  decided 
to  refer  the  matter  to  Edward  I,  king  of  England.  Edward  now  claimed 
that  the  kings  of  England  were  paramount  in  Scotland,  and  that  the  compe- 
titors should  do  homage  to  him  as  such.  This  was  consented  to,  and  Edward, 
finding  Baliol  most  suitable  to  his  views,  decided  in  his  favor.  The  latter, 
however,  being  less  subservient  than  was  expected,  was  speedily  set  aside 
by  Edward,  who  attempted  to  seize  the  kingdom  on  the  pretense  of  its  having 
escheated  to  him  through  the  rebellion  of  his  vassal. 


A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND.  99 

Tne  nation,  however,  was  not  so  to  be  transferred.  The  standard  of  re- 
bellion was  raised  by  Sir  William  Wallace,  and  in  the  sequel  the  famous 
Robert  Bruce,  grandson  of  the  competitor  of  Baliol,  appeared  in  the  field. 
The  battle  of  Bannockburn,  in  1314,  decided  the  contest,  and  gave  indepen- 
dence to  Scotland  by  establishing  the  conqueror  and  his  family  on  the  throne. 
The  House  of  Stuart  succeeded  in  1371,  the  unfortunate  history  of  which  is 
invested  with  more  than  ordinary  interest.  The  principles  of  the  Reformers 
were  early  introduced  into  Scotland,  and  were  eagerly  adopted  by  both  the 
nobles  and  people.  The  Protestant  religion  obtained  the  ascendancy  in  1 560, 
shortly  before  the  return  of  the  beautiful  but  ill-fated  Mary  from  France. 
At  this  period  the  royal  authority  was  at  a  very  low  ebb  ;  the  most  violent 
contentions  prevailed  among  the  nobility,  and  it  would  have  required  a  sove- 
reign of  no  ordinary  ability  and  energy  of  character  to  conduct  the  govern- 
ment under  such  difficult  circumstances.  Mary  failed — her  anti-Protestant 
prejudices,  and  the  violence  of  her  passions  were  ill  suited  to  such  a  condition 
of  the  country.  Having  been  deposed  in  1567,  Mary  was  succeeded  by  her 
son  James  VI,  then  a  minor.  The  latter  succeeded,  on  the  demise  of  Eliza- 
beth, in  1603,  to  the  crown  of  England,  by  which  event  the  two  British 
crowns  were  happily  united  under  one  sovereign. 

From  the  accession  of  the  Stuarts  to  the  union  of  the  crowns,  a  period  of 
about  230  years,  Scotland,  speaking  generally,  was  in  a  most  turbulent  and 
unsettled  state.  The  feudal  system  had  been  early  introduced,  and  the  great 
estates  and  influence  enjoyed  by  several  of  the  nobles  enabled  them  to  rival 
the  sovereign  in  power  and  importance,  and  sometimes  to  despise  his  orders, 
and  insult  his  person.  In  England  the  power  of  the  nobles  had  been  reduced 
by  the  elevation  of  the  commons,  and  thus  the  sovereign  depended  more  on 
the  affections  of  the  people  for  support,  than  on  the  caprice  of  the  great 
barons.  The  kings  of  Scotland,  however,  had  no  such  support  to  fall  back 
upon — they  depended  on  their  vassals,  who  were  restrained  only  by  interest. 
In  consequence,  the  power  of  the  kings  was  much  circumscribed,  and  civil 
broils  were  of  perpetual  recurrence.  England,  for  special  reasons,  fomented 
these  discords,  and  kept  the  country  in  a  continual  state  of  ferment  and 
anarchy. 

The  union  of  the  crowns  in  1603,  introduced  a  great  change  for  the 
better  into  the  domestic  relations  of  Scotland.  The  barons  could  no  longer 
look  to  England  for  countenance  or  support  in  the  contest  with  their  sove- 
reigns, and  as  a  consequence,  the  power  of  the  latter  over  the  masses  was 
proportionately  increased.  Hence,  though  Scotland  labored  under  various 
grievances,  resulting  principally  from  the  unseasonable  hostility  of  the  sove- 
reign to  the  Presbyterian  form  of  church  government,  to  which  the  majority 
of  the  people  were  enthusiastically  attached,  the  kingdom  gained  materially 
in  tranquillity  and  good  order. 

The  union  of  the  kingdoms,  in  1707,  was,  as  it  were,  the  natural  result 
and  completion  of  the  union  of  the  crowns.  Though  unpopular  at  the  time, 
and  opposed  by  many  of  the  best  Scottish  patriots,  it  has  been  of  vast  advan- 
tage to  Scotland  as  well  as  to  the  empire  generally. 

In  the  suppression  of  the  rebellion  of  1745  were  extinguished  the  long 


100  A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND. 

cherished  hopes  of  the  Jacobites,  and  at  the  same  time  this  result  was  advan- 
tageous in  stimulating  the  government  to  great  measures  for  the  civilization 
of  the  Highlanders,  and  the  introduction  of  a  more  efficient  judiciary.  The 
old  feudal  judicatories  were  abolished,  and  the  empire  of  law  and  order 
established  throughout  the  country.  The  most  satisfactory  conditions  en- 
sued, and  the  public  energies  were  happily  turned  into  those  departments  cf 
industry  and  enterprise  in  which  they  have  achieved  such  astonishing  pre- 
eminence. " 


It  is  now  some  years  since,  that  the  Rev.  Jacob  Abbott,  of  New  York, 
made  a  tour  to  the  most  prominent  points  of  interest  in  Scotland.  His  nar- 
rative, entitled  "A  Summer  in  Scotland,"  is  written  with  that  truthfulness 
and  simplicity  of  style  for  which  this  author  is  noted. 

Mr.  Abbott  left  Boston  in  one  of  the  Cunard  line  of  steamships.  His  nar- 
rative commences  with  his  departure  from  his  native  land.  He  describes  life 
on  board  of  a  steamship,  and  the  every-day  incidents  of  a  voyage  at  sea, 
with  a  clearness  we  have  not  seen  elsewhere.  After  landing  at  Liverpool  he 
proceeded  through  the  great  manufacturing  district — wherein  lie  the  main 
elements  of  the  gigantic  power  and  prosperity  of  the  nation, — through  York 
to  Newcastle,  in  the  north  of  England,  famous  for  its  coals.  He  made  seve- 
ral visits  to  the  collieries,  and  on  one  occasion  sprang  into  a  huge  bucket, 
suspended  over  the  mouth  of  a  coal-pit,  and  descended  perpendicularly,  by 
the  power  of  steam,  eight  hundred  feet  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  He 
there  wandered  about  for  hours,  a  distance  of  several  miles  through  various 
alleys  and  lanes  in  that  subterranean  world.  At  one  time  he  was  under  the 
bed  of  the  river  Tyne,  which  flowed  on  in  its  course  nearly  a  thousand  feet 
above,  bearing  upon  its  surface  throngs  of  shipping.  Finishing  his  under- 
ground explorations,  he  returned  to  daylight  in  the  same  manner  as  he  had 
descended,  and  about  dusk  a  few  evenings  later  arrived  at  the  southeastern 
town  of  Scotland,  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  after  a  comfortable  passage,  upon  a 
railroad  car,  of  three  hours'  duration,  through  a  country  of  extreme  verdure 
and  beauty  of  scenery. 

The  old  town  of  Berwick,  or  Berrick  as  they  pronounce  it,  was  then  in  an 
uproar  of  excitement,  it  having  been  on  the  eve  of  an  election.  Groups  of 
men,  women,  and  children  filled  the  streets,  flags  were  flying  from  the  win- 
dows, and  the  whole  scene  was  illuminated  by  the  light  of  burning  tar-bar- 
rels. The  candidates,  as  is  customary  on  these  occasions,  were  courting 
popularity  by  throwing  halfpence  from  the  windows  of  the  Red  Lion,  the 
principal  tavern  of  the  town,  to  a  throng  of  ragged  boys  and  girls,  men  and 
women  in  the  street  below ;  and  whenever  the  coin  jingled  upon  the  stones  a 
general  scramble  took  place,  amusing  to  behold,  in  which  numbers  would  be 
thrown  upon  the  ground  piled  upon  each  other,  some  of  the  children  entirely 
disappearing  from  view  under  the  heap  of  scramblers.  Shouts  soon  after 
went  up  for  tar-barrels  from  hundreds  of  voices:  "  Give  us  some  shillin's  to 
buy  some  tor-borrills."  Their  wants  were  supplied,  the  "tor-borrills"  were 
lighted,  and,  with  great  "noise  and  confusion,"  sent  rolling  zig-zag  through 


A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND.  101 

the  streets,  causing  a  general  scattering  among  the  peopie  whenever  they 
came  near. 

The  remains  of  the  old  fortifications,  which  surround  Berwick,  are  to  a 
certain  extent  covered  with  grass,  and  furnish  a  delightful  walk ;  the  scene, 
as  one  progresses,  is  continually  changing.  From  these  heights  one  has  a 
delightful  view  of  the  sea  and  its  smooth  beaches,  while  in  other  directions, 
the  smooth  green  hills,  having  been  cultivated  for  centuries,  please  the  eye 
by  a  peculiar  softness  of  verdure  unknown  to  our  country.  Our  traveler, 
late  on  the  evening  of  his  arrival,  wandered  out  upon  the  summit  of  the 
mound  to  enjoy  the  quiet  beauty  of  the  scenery.  He  there  found  two  other 
gentlemen  evidently  travelers  and  on  the  same  errand  as  himself.  In  our 
country  nothing  would  have  been  more  natural  than  for  them  to  have  sought 
the  acquaintance  of  each  other;  but  this  .English  etiquette  forbade,  and  to 
have  done  so  would  have  been  considered  rudeness.  Our  people  travel 
partly  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  character,  and  to  make  acquaintances  which 
will  facilitate  their  business  plans,  and  therefore,  on  these  occasions,  wish  to 
know  and  be  known.  In  England,  as  in  all  densely  populated  countries, 
there  is  more  danger  from  forming  hasty  acquaintances  among  strangers ; 
beside  which  a  large  number  of  persons  travel  mainly  for  the  sake  of  rest 
and  retirement  from  the  busy  scenes  of  pleasure  in  which  they  have  been 
merged,  and  therefore  wish  to  avoid  forming  new  associations.  Again,  the 
distinction  of  classes,  which  in  the  course  of  centuries  has  interwoven  itself 
into  the  very  constitution  of  English  society,  forbids  an  easy  familiarity 
among  those  wholly  ignorant  of  each  other's  claims  to  notice. 

From  Berwick  our  traveler  proceeded  to  Edinburgh,  by  the  great  northern 
railway,  which,  running  through  a  beautiful,  fertile  country  along  the  verge 
of  the  lofty  cliffs,  here  bounding  the  German  Ocean,  furnishes  a  magni- 
ficent sea-view. 

Edinburgh,  the  capital  of  Scotland,  is  a  town  of  about  the  population  of 
Cincinnati.  It  consists  of  two  parts,  the  Old  and  the  New  Town.  The  latter 
lies  on  level  ground,  on  the  north,  and  is  a  handsome,  modern-built  city ;  the 
former  is  separated  from  it  by  a  deep  valley  running  east  and  west,  and  lies 
south  of  the  other  on  a  long  and  lofty  ridge,  and  bears  an  ancient,  venerable 
aspect.  Prince's  street,  the  Broadway  of  Edinburgh,  is  in  the  New  town  on 
the  edge  of  the  dividing  valley,  and  is  noted  for  the  magnificence  of  its  build- 
ings. Between  the  Old  and  New  towns,  and  between  the  various  sections  of 
the  New  town  itself,  as  well  as  in  the  centers  of  the  principal  squares,  gardens 
are  laid  out  in  the  modern  landscape  style,  forming  delightful  places  of  recre- 
ation. It  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  unequal  ground  upon  which  Edinburgh  ia 
situated,  the  massive  elegance  and  regularity  of  its  buildings,  the  intermix- 
ture of  ornamental  pleasure-ground,  and  the  picturesque  hills  immediately 
adjacent,  whence  distant  and  extensive  prospects  are  commanded,  that  thia 
city  makes  so  great  an  impression  upon  strangers. 

The  hills,  in  the  environs,  afford  very  extended  and  varied  views.  The 
most  famous  of  these  are  Calton  Hill,  the  Salisbury  Crag,  and  Arthur's  Seat, 
the  towering  summit  of  a  vast  collection  of  precipices,  glens  and  peaks.  To 
American  eyes  these  hills,  valleys,  and  slopes  are  so  very  smooth  and  green 


102  A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND. 

as  to  be  very  striking,  because  with  us  wild  land  of  this  kind  is  covered  with 
forests,  and  stony,  whereas  here  man  has  been  in  possession  for  many  centu- 
ries and  the  steep  slopes  have  become  worn  to  almost  the  smoothness  of  a 
lawn. 

In  company  with  a  lady,  who  had  scaled  some  of  the  loftiest  mountains 
of  Switzerland  and  Italy,  our  traveler,  one  evening  about  sunset,  attempted 
the  ascent.  After  rising  several  hundred  feet  by  a  narrow  zig-zag  path,  they 
turned  to  look  back,  when  the  depth  below  them  struck  them  with  awe. 
Every  moment  they  were  apprehensive  of  sliding,  in  which  event  there  was 
nothing  to  prevent  them  from  descending  clear  to  the  bottom  of  the  vailey. 
Far  above  extended  the  same  slippery  steep,  crowned  by  a  line  of  frowning 
cliffs.  For  a  moment  they  were  doubtful  how  to  proceed,  but  at  length,  with 
great  caution,  they  picked  out  their  course,  and  soon  after  were  at  the  sum- 
mit: In  the  meantime  the  hill  was  dotted  with  other  parties  following  c  a 
after  them,  carefully  picking  out  their  way,  and  the  air  was  filled  with  th 
strains  of  martial  music,  that  came  from  a  Scottish  bagpipe  across  the  wides 
glen,  in  tones  sweet  and  softened  by  distance. 

Amid  the  green  slopes  of  the  hill  was  an  abundance  of  wild  flowers,  anc 
every  crag  was  adorned  by  the  "bluebells  of  Scotland."  Blooming  among 
the  rest  was  a  tiny,  delicate  daisy,  which  at  the  time  escaped  the  particulai 
notice  of  Mr.  Abbott;  it  being,  like  true  worth,  modest  and  unobtrusive. 
But  the  genius  of  Burns,  which  hallowed  everything  it  touched  and  drew 
inspiration  from  the  humblest  objects  of  nature,  found  a  congenial  task  in 
portraying  its  charms,  and  in  drawing  therefrom  a  simple,  touching  moral. 
To  appreciate  the  beauty  of  the  lines,  they  should  be  read  aloud,  deliberately, 
and  with  emphasis. 

TO   A  MOUNTAIN   DAISY. 

Wee,  modest,  crimson  tipped  flower,  There  in  thy  scanty  mantle  clad, 

Thou'st  met  me  in  an  evil  hour,  Thy  snawy  bosom  sunward  spread, 

For  I  maun  crush  amang  the  stoure*  Thou  lifts  thy  unassuming  head 

Thy  slender  stem  :  In  humble  guise  ; 

To  spare  thee  now  is  past  my  pow'r,  But  now  the  share  uptears  thy  bed, 

My  bonnie  gem.  And  low  thou  lies. 

Cauld  blew  the  bitter-biting  north  Such  is  the  fate  of  artless  maid, 

Upon  thy  early,  humble  birth;  Sweet  flow'ret  of  the  rural  shade! 

Yet  cheerfully  thou  glinted*  forth  By  love's  simplicity  betrayed, 

Amid  the  storm,  And  guileless  trust ; 

Scarce  reared  above  thy  parent  earth  Till  she,  like  thee,  all  soil'd  is  laid 

Thy  tender  form.  Low  i'  the  dust. 

The  flaunting  flow'rs  our  gardens  yield,  Such  is  the  fate  of  simple  bard, 

High  sheltering  woods  and  wa's  maun  shield.  On  life's  rough  ocean  luckless  starred ! 

But  thou,  beneath  the  random  bieldj  Unskillful  he  to  note  the  card|| 

0'  clod  or  stane,  Of  prudent  lore. 

Adorns  the  histie§  stibble-jield,  The  billows  -iw  and  gales  blow  hard, 

Unseen,  alane.  And  whelm  him  o'er. 


*  Stoure,  dust  in  motion.  f  Glinted,  peeped.  %  Bield,  shelter.  \  Hisue,  dry 

fl  Card  referring  to  the  compass  card,  on  which  thr  points  of  the  compass  are  marked  to  guide  *he  helm* 


A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND.  103 

Such  fate  of  suffering  worth  is  giv'n,  Even  thou  who  mourn'st  the  Daisy's  fate. 

Who  long  with  wants  and  woes  has  striv'n,  That  fate  is  thine — no  distant  date  ; 

By  human  pride  or  cunning  driv'n  Stern  ruin's  plowshare  drives,  elate, 

To  mis'ry"s  brink;  Full  on  thy  bloom, 

Till  wrenched  of  every  stay  but  Heav'n,  Till,  crushed  beneath  the  furrow's  weight, 

He,  ruin'd,  sink!  Shall  be  thy  doom. 

Seating  themselves  upon  the  summit,  Mr.  A.  and  companion  were  soon  ap- 
proached by  a  young  lad,  who  very  respectfully  addressed  them,  and  said, 
pointing  to  the  plain  beneath  :  "Wad  the  ladie  like  to  see  Jeanie  Dean's  cottage, 
which  is  described  in  Walter  Scott's  novel  of  the  Heart  of  Mid  Lothian  ?  Yon  is 
it — the  double  cottage,  by  the  road-side,  with  the  tiled  roof."  "  Yon  village," 
soon  continued  he,  "  is  Libberton,  where  Reuben  Butler  lived,  who  was  en- 
gaged to  be  married  to  Jeanie."  Then,  after  pointing  out  other  localities  of 
similar  interest,  he  added:  "Those  hills,  to  the  south,  are  the  Pentland  Hills, 
and  that  high  land,  further  east,  is  the  Lammermuir,  the  scene  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott's  novel,  the  Bride  of  Lammermuir."  This,  and  much  other  informa- 
tion, was  conveyed  to  them  by  the  young  man  in  a  pleasant  Scotch  tone,  but 
in  good  English  words.  His  subject  in  accosting  them,  "  Wad  the  ladie  like 
to  see  Jeanie  Dean's  cottage?"  instead  of  pointing  out  the  magnificent 
castles,  palaces,  and  abbeys,  and  other  like  objects  in  view,  was  a  strong  evi- 
dence of  the  absorbing  interest  which  it  is  rightly  supposed  has  been  excited 
in  every  traveler  in  objects  immortalized  by  the  genius  of  Scott.  Aside  from 
this,  the  language  of  the  guide  was  attractive  to  our  travelers.  u  There  is," 
says  Mr.  Abbott,  "a  charm  about  the  Scotch  dialect  to  one,  who,  after  having 
been  from  childhood  accustomed  to  it  in  reading  and  hearing  read  the  writ- 
ings of  Burns  and  Scott,  now  for  the  first  time  listens  to  it  in  real  life,  which 
makes  you  glad  to  stop  and  talk  with  any  one  who  uses  it,  whether  what  they 
say  is  of  any  importance  or  not." 

The  most  interesting  spot  about  Edinburgh  is  the  bedroom  of  Mary,  Queen 
of  Scots,  in  the  palace  of  Holyrood.  It  is  full  of  relics,  sad  mementoes  of 
one  whose  whole  life  was  a  melancholy  history,  and  over  whose  dark  fate, 
even  after  the  lapse  of  three  centuries,  the  tear  of  sympathy  is  wont  to  fall. 
The  room  has  an  extremely  antique  expression,  its  old-fashioned  furniture, 
ancient-looking  pictures,  time-worn  and  faded,  all  look  fragile,  as  if  about  to 
fall  to  dust  by  the  ravages  of  age.  Everything  remains  just  as  Mary  left  it. 
In  this  and  the  adjoining  apartment,  the  visitor  is  shown  a  chair  embroidered 
by  Mary  herself,  the  queen's  work-table,  and  upon  it  her  work-box,  lined 
with  silk  now  decayed  and  torn,  and  containing  her  pincushion  and  the  other 
articles  for  which  it  was  appropriated  ;  beside  these  it  holds  a  beautiful 
miniature  of  Mary  at  the  period  when  she  was  married  to  Lord  Darnley. 
There  is  also  a  picture  of  Mary  on  the  walls,  representing  her  in  her  execu- 
tion robes,  as  she  was  led  out  to  be  beheaded  by  order  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
after  an  imprisonment  of  eighteen  years.  In  a  little  cabinet  adjoining  is  a 
portrait  of  poor  Rizzio,  who  was  stabbed  in  Mary's  arms,  as  he,  in  vain, 
rushed  to  her  for  protection  from  his  ruthless  murderers.  He  was  an  affec- 
tionate and  gentle  boy,  and  the  extreme  beauty  and  innocence  of  his  face  is 
such  that  every  one,  who  sees  his  portrait,  involuntarily  acquits  him  of  crime 


104  A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND. 

Rizzio  lies  buried  under  the  pavement  of  the  palace.     The  room,  in  which 
he  was  assassinated,  has  not  been  occupied  from  that  day  to  this. 

After  visiting,  with  melancholy  interest,  the  ruins  of  the  palace  at  Linlith- 
gow, some  twenty  miles  west  of  Edinburgh,  where  Mary  was  born,  our  trave- 
ler set  out  upon  a  tour  to  the  extended  mountainous  region  in  western 
Scotland,  known  as  the  Western  Highlands,  and  celebrated  for  its  wild  and 
picturesque  scenery,  its  lofty  mountains,  and  its  romantic  lakes.  Among  the 
latter  are  Loch  Lomond  and  Loch  Katrine,  which  are  but  four  or  five  miles 
apart,  being  separated  by  a  wild  and  rugged  glen. 

Proceeding  leisurely  from  Edinburgh  up  the  broad  and  beautiful  valley  of 
the  Forth,  through  a  region  of  luxuriant  fertility  and  adorned  with  cottages, 
parks,  gardens,  plantations,  and  villas,  he  arrived  at  the  town  and  castle  of 
Stirling,  which  stands  on  a  rocky  hill,  island-like,  in  the  midst  of  a  scene  of 
beauty  and  fertility.  From  thence  he  continued  on  toward  the  mountains, 
which  gradually  loomed  larger  and  grew  nearer,  until,  when  the  last  rays  of 
the  sun  had  departed  from  their  summits,  he  was  in  their  very  midst ;  riding 
into  a  long  street  of  a  mountain  village,  he  dismounted,  and  entered  the  village 
inn.  The  street  was  bounded  by  thatched  and  tile-covered  cottages,  before  the 
doors  of  which  the  cottagers  were  out  with  their  wives  and  children  enjoying 
the  evening  air,  now  that  the  labors  of  the  long  summer-day  were  ended.   . 

Having  engaged  quarters  for  the  night,  our  traveler  sallied  out  to  see  a 
neighboring  waterfall  among  the  mountains.  Taking  a  little  boy  as  a  guide, 
he  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  when  he  met  two  young  girls  return- 
ing from  some  pastures  above.  He  bade  them  good  evening,  when  they 
returned  his  salutation  in  good  English,  and  then  added  some  words  in  an 
unknown  language.  Learning,  by  inquiry  from  his  guide,  that  it  was  the 
Gaelic,  the  ancient  language  of  Scotland,  the  little  fellow,  at  his  desire,  asked 
them  to  "  Sing  the  gentleman  a  Gaelic  song."  "  Yes,"  rejoined  Mr.  Abbott, 
"let  us  hear  it;  sing  away."  At  once  they  commenced  in  full  and  clear 
voices,  and  sang,  in  perfect  time,  a  simple  but  spirited  and  expressive  song. 
While  singing,  with  childlike  modesty,  they  half-way  turned  their  heads; 
but  when  their  song  was  ended  they  again  looked  up  with  grateful  and  happy 
faces.  Mr.  Abbott  remunerated  them  for  their  music  and  invited  them  .to 
accompany  him  to  the  waterfall. 

The  next  morning,  in  company  with  numerous  other  tourists,  he  set  out  in 
an  open  car  and  proceeded  up  a  pretty  glen,  and  finally  entered  a  narrow  and 
romantic  mountain  gorge,  named  the  Trosachs  ;  he  stopped  at  the  farther  end 
of  the  gorge  at  the  Trosachs'  inn,  beautifully  situated  on  the  shores  of  Loch 
Katrine.  This  lake  is  made  classic  by  the  poem  of  the  Lady  of  the  Lake. 
Here  the  traveler  is  pointed  out  the  watch-tower  of  Rhoderic  Dnu,  a  rocky  hill 
towering  several  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  and  a  lovely  island  called 
"Ellen's  Isle."  Two  lofty  peaks,  in  the  mountain  range  which  hems  in  the 
lake,  Ben- Venue  and  Ben- An,  mark  its  commencement.  Both  are  enormous 
masses  covered  densely  with  heather  and  ferns,  which,  when  seen  in  the 
slanting  rays  of  an  evening  or  morning  sun,  have  an  inexpressibly  rich  and 
velvety  appearance. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Abbott  left  the  inn  and  embarked  upon  the  tiny  steamej 


A  SUMMER  IK  SCOTLAND.  105 

thai  plys  upon  the  lake.  It  was  the  smallest  sample  of  a  steamboat  that  ever 
met  his  eye  ;  it  was  open,  long,  and  narrow,  with  seats  around  its  sides, 
which  were  protected  from  the  weather,  like  a  tent,  with  canvas  above. 
The  engine  was  of  Lilliputian  dimensions,  but  worked  well,  and  carried  them 
along  rapidly  until  it  stopped  ;  when  the  party  landed  and  proceeded  to  cross  the 
glen  which  separates  Loch  Katrine  from  Loch  Lomond.  Part  proceeded  on 
foot,  with  their  knapsacks  buckled  on  their  backs,  while  others  got  into  dros- 
kies,  a  sort  of  gig  much  used  in  the  Highlands.  Our  traveler  was  surprised 
to  see,  not  only  here  but  in  all  the  Highland  valleys  which  he  subsequently 
visited,  that  the  country  appeared  almost  completely  devoid  of  inhabitants. 
Some  of  these  valleys  are  of  great  extent,  and  for  miles  and  miles,  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  the  view  is  ever  open  and  unobstructed.  The  bounding 
hills  and  slopes  are  naked  and  totally  devoid  of  trees,  there  being  instead  a 
6oft  carpet  of  grass  and  heather,  with,  here  and  there,  small  herds  of  sheep 
and  cattle,  while  in  the  bottom  of  each  glen  lies  an  excellent  but  narrow  road, 
upon  which  a  team,  or  a  farmer's  wagon  going  to  market,  is  never  seen. 
Occasionally  one  passes  a  solitary  hut,  the  residence  of  some  shepherd  and 
family,  with,  perhaps,  a  vegetable  patch  or  two  around  it.  Now  and  then, 
he  comes  to  a  cluster  of  cottages  and  an  inn,  which,  if  he  enters,  he  will  be 
astonished  to  find  amply  provided  with  everything  to  minister  to  his  comfort. 
These  are  all  the  signs  of  habitations  that  appear,  except  occasionally  a 
plain  sort  of  hunting  boxes,  the  temporary  residence  of  sportsmen  who  come 
up  here  in  the  summer  season,  to  spend  a  few  days  on  their  estates  in  shoot- 
ing grouse.  In  truth,  the  whole  of  the  Highlands  are  now  but  the  abodes 
of  scattered  shepherds  and  herdsmen,  and  of  those  who  provide  for  the  wants 
of  tourists  and  sportsmen,  who  wander  thither  for  health  and  pleasure  amid 
their  enchanting  scenery. 

There  are  but  few  remains  of  the  ancient  Highland  manners,  which  are  so 
well  depicted  by  the  historians  and  romance  writers  of  Scotland.  By  the 
policy  of  the  English  government,  laws  were  passed  after  the  unfortunate 
battle  of  Culloden,  by  which  the  wealth  and  the  power  of  the  chieftains  were 
destroyed  and  the  clans  broken  up,  and  now  neither  exist  save  in  history  and 
in  song.  Even  the  dress  is  rarely  worn,  except  by  some  few  individuals,  on 
rare  occasions,  as  a  matter  of  curiosity. 

Mr.  Abbott  went  over  to  Loch  Lomond  in  a  drosky.  His  first  view  was 
from  a  high  mountain-pass,  when  far  below,  suddenly  burst  upon  his  sight 
this  beautiful  sheet  of  water  at  the  bottom  of  a  long,  deep,  and  narrow  val- 
ley. Clouds  and  mists  were  rolling  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  and 
the  effect  occasioned  by  them  upon  the  lake  and  its  dark  and  deep  valley, 
was  gloomy  and  sublime. 

After  a  short  sojourn  at  an  ancient  stone  cottage,  on  the  borders  of  Loch 
Lomond,  called  Rowerdennan  Inn,  the  little  steamer  wThich  plies  on  the  lake, 
was  seen  gliding  into  view  from  around  a  projecting  headland,  and,  on  its 
arrival,  the  company  embarked.  The  impression  one  obtains  of  the  loch 
from  on  board  of  the  steamboat,  "  is  simply  that  of  a  long  and  narrow  sheet 
of  water,  bordered  by  lofty  mountains,  which  rise  abruptly  from  the  water's 
ed^e  and  are  endlessly  varied  in  contour,  but  all  clothed  to  their  summits 


106  A  SUMMER  m  SCOTLAND. 

with  a  rich,  soft,  and  velvet-like  covering  of  deep  green  and  brown.  The 
whole  scene,  though  inexpressibly  beautiful  and  grand,  seems  at  first  an 
absolute  solitude.  The  few  faint  traces  of  the  presence  of  man  along  the 
shores  have  to  be  sought  out  with  scrutiny  and  with  care." 

Mr.  Abbott  remained  several  days  enjoying  the  charming  scenery  of  the 
loch.  He  narrates  some  little  adventures  of  his  at  this  time,  which  give  one 
a  pleasant  insight  into  the  every-day  life  of  the  Highland  cottiers.  While 
taking  a  stroll  late  one  afternoon,  he  overtook  a  peasant  girl,  neatly  dressed, 
in  the  path  just  before  him.  Just  then  she  was  in  the  act  of  stooping  down, 
and  appeared  to  be  doing  something  about  her  feet.  Thinking  she  had  hurt 
her  foot,  he  put  the  inquiry.  She  replied  very  artlessly:  "There  is  na' 
ony  thing  the  matter,  I  was  only  takin'  aff  my  shoon  and  stockin's  because 
they  hurt  my  feet."  The  road,  "a  little  further  alang  was  very  rough,"  and 
she  could  "better  gang  barefoot."  He  entered  into  conversation  with 
her,  and  to  his  numerous  inquiries,  respecting  her  ways  of  living,  she 
answered  with  a  modest  frankness  and  simplicity  that  was  very  gratify- 
ing. Soon  they  came  to  a  broad,  though  shallow  stream,  and  he  uttered  an 
exclamation  as  to  how  he  should  cross  it.  "Na,"  said  she,  "ye  canna  get 
acrass  here ;  but  stay,  and  I'll  pit  a  stane  for  ye."  Saying  which,  she  waded 
into  the  water  and  put  stones  in  line  for  him  to  pass  over.  At  length,  at  the 
top  of  a  slight  declivity,  they  reached  an  old  Highland  cottage,  built  of 
stone,  and  with  a  thatch-covered  roof.  At  the  door  was  a  neatly  attired, 
intelligent,  and  fine-looking  woman,  with  two  or  three  children  playing 
around  her,  one  of  which  was  a  beautiful  little  girl  of  seven,  her  hair 
arranged  with  motherly  pride,  hanging  in  ringlets.  Here,  he  bade  the  moun- 
tain maiden  good-bye,  and  stopped  to  talk  awhile  with  the  good  woman,  on 
the  broad  flat  stone  before  her  door.  By  her  invitation,  he  walked  in  to 
rest.  The  room  was  small,  and  as  he  bent  down  to  enter,  out  bounded  a 
pet  lamb,  a  dog,  and  a  kitten.  Rough,  flat  stones  formed  the  floor.  The 
house  was  without  a  chimney,  and  in  the  back  part  of  the  room,  a  fire  was 
built  against  a  large  flat  stone,  the  smoke  from  which,  ascended  through  a 
hole  in  the  roof.  Only  a  few  small,  dry  sticks  were  burning,  fire-wood  being 
very  difficult  to  obtain.  He  entered  freely  into  conversation  with  her,  and 
told  her  how  people  of  her  class  lived  in  his  country.  He  described 
the  log-houses  of  our  farmers  ;  their  immense  fire-places,  and  their  great 
heaps  of  firewood  before  their  doors  for  winter's  use,  and  said,  that  in  many 
parts,  the  forests  were  so  much  in  the  way,  that  they  destroyed  them,  adding, 
that  he  supposed  that  here  they  were  not  allowed  to  cut  the  trees.  "  Na, 
na,"  she  replied,  "<we  darena  coot  a  tree.  We  should  be  driven  oot  o'  the 
Ian'  entirely,  an'  betfined  foreby." 

The  next  day,  in  company  with  a  young  lowlander  and  a  guide,  our  tra- 
veler ascended  thelofty  mountain  of  Ben  Lomond.  The  mountains  of  Scot- 
land are  peculiar,  being  entirely  bare  of  trees  or  any  other  obstructions  ;  yet, 
are  just  as  beautiful,  as  if  covered  with  verdant  forests.  "  A  soft,  rich 
cushion  of  green  and  brown,  covers  the  whole,  beautifully  variegated  with 
the  different  shades  of  verdure  which  grass  and  heather,  in  their  various 
combinations,  assume,  and  shy  the  change  of  light  and  shade  produced  by  tbv 


A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND  107 

undulating  surface,  and  by  the  movement  of  the  clouds."  From  the  summit 
of  Ben  Lomond,  a  glorious  view  was  had  over  nearly  a  third  of  Scotland.  At 
their  feet  lay  beautiful  lakes,  deeply  embosomed  in  the  mountains  :  the  lofty 
peaks  of  Ben-Venue  and  Ben- An,  and  numerous  others  seemed  to  pierce  the 
very  heavens.  In  the  distance,  was  seen  Stirling  Castle,  and  beyond, 
Arthur's  Seat,  at  Edinburgh. 

Our  traveler,  after  a  few  days'  wanderings  among  these  scenes,  mounted 
a  coach,  ascended  a  narrow  road  through  a  gap  in  the  mountains,  and  took  a 
final  leave  of  Loch  Lomond.  He  passed  rapidly  through  gien  after  glen,  and 
by  lake  after  lake,  and  arms  of  the  sea,  shut  in  among  the  smooth,  heather - 
covered  mountains,  green  to  their  summits,  the  whole  combining  to  produce 
an  impression  of  surpassing  grandeur,  and  of  perfect  solitude.  Yet,  deserted 
as  these  glens  appeared,  they  are  inhabited  by  three  distinct  classes  of  in- 
habitants. First,  are  the  noblemen,  who  here  hold  immense  estates,  of  miles 
and  miles  in  extent,  and  beautiful  country-seats  in  which  they  reside  but  a 
few  weeks  in  the  summer,  spending  the  greater  part  of  the  year  amid  the 
festivities  of  London.  .  Second,  follow  the  attorney,  the  clergyman,  and  the 
"  tacksman,"  whose  business  it  is  to  lease  a  part  of  the  lands  for  grazing. 
This  second  class  perform  no  manual  labor,  possess  the  dress,  manners,  and 
cultivation  of  gentlemen,  but  look  up  with  profound  veneration  to  the  noble 
proprietor,  and  in  turn,  down  upon  the  third  class,  the  "  cottiers,"  the  labor- 
ers, and  the  shepherds,  as  the  mere  "  common  herd."  Unlike  our  culti- 
vators of  the  soil,  these  are  entirely  free  from  care,  having  nothing  more  to 
do  than  to  pay  their  rents,  and  simply  to  work  on  as  their  fathers  did  before 
them.  They  have  no  hope  nor  chance  of  rising,  and  stand  in  neither  fear  nor 
danger  of  falling.  They  are,  of  course,  very  humble  and  very  poor,  but  con- 
tented with  their  position,  and  have  by  habit,  so  long  been  accustomed  to  have 
somebody  above  them  to  look  up  to,  that  they  seem  to  experience  from  it  a 
feeling  of  protection  and  safety.  How  different  is  this  from  the  position  of 
the  American,  who  is  ever  striving  to  rise  in  the  social  scale,  and  who  will 
bear  every  evil  and  endure  every  suffering,  sooner  than  the  feeling  of  depen- 
dence ? 

After  passing  through  the  beautiful  glens  above  described,  Mr.  Abbott 
reached  the  little  town  of  Oban,  built  mainly  of  cheerful-looking  white  cot- 
tages, standing  under  some  lofty  cliffs,  on  a  small  but  picturesque  bay  on  the 
Atlantic  coast.  Beyond,  far  out  at  sea,  the  Scottish  highlands  rise  from  the 
blue  waters,  in  the  form  of  numerous  small  islands,  some  of  which  are  of 
exquisite  beauty.  The  largest  are  inhabited,  containing  towns  and  villages  ; 
on  the  smaller,  roam  flocks  of  sheep  and  herds  of  cattle.  Some  are  used  as 
hunting-grounds  by  the  proprietors,  who,  at  certain  seasons,  visit  them  to 
shoot  grouse,  which  breed  in  great  numbers  amid  the  heather.  Mr.  Abbott 
overheard  an  English  gentleman  say  to  a  companion,  that  the  population  of 
a  large  island  they  were  then  sailing  past,  did  not  increase  ;  that  a  large 
number  were  obliged  to  emigrate  not  long  before,  M  because  the  duke  com- 
pelled them."  "He  does  not  want,"  continued  he,  "the  population  to  in 
crease.     He  wants  to  keep  it  a  quiet,  still  place,  for  his  shooting  ?" 

Two  of  these  islands,  Iona  and  Staffa,  are  objects  of  great  interest  te 


108  A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND. 

tourists.  The  first,  is  the  spot  from  whence  Christianity  first  originated  in 
Scotland.  St.  Columba,  about  the  middle  of  the  sixth  century,  founded  here  a 
monastery  and  a  nunnery.  The  Culdees  or  followers  of  Columba,  rendered 
great  services  to  the  whole  north,  supplying  teachers  for  the  seminaries  of 
England,  and  sending  missionaries  to  Norway,  and  even  Russia.  They 
taught  the  principles  of  primitive  Christianity,  rejecting  alike,  the  vows  of 
celibacy  and  the  ceremonies  of  the  Romish  Church.  Iona  at  length  became 
Roman  Catholic,  and  nourished  until  the  Reformation,  when  its  monks  were 
dispersed,  and  its  edifices  demolished.  Upon  it  are  the  ruins  of  a  cathedral, 
a  church,  and  a  nunnery  :  adjacent  to  the  first,  is  a  graveyard,  where  repose 
the  remains  of  no  less  than  forty-eight  ancient  Scottish  kings,  eight  of  Nor- 
way, four  of  Ireland,  and  one  of  France.  Staffa,  five  miles  north,  is  a  small 
but  lofty  islet,  and  is  composed  of,  and  stands  on,  a  multitude  of  basaltic  col- 
umns, which  project  out  of  the  ocean.  Its  chief  attraction  is  Fingal's  Cave, 
a  vast  cavern,  whose  sides  are  formed  of  the  columns,  through  which,  the 
sea  dashes  in  and  out  with  a  tremendous  roar.  Taking  a  small  steamer  at 
Oban,  our  traveler  devoted  one  day  to  a  visit  to  the  curiosities  of  both  of 
these  islands,  returning  in  the  evening. 

From  Oban,  he  proceeded  in  a  steamer  up  northward,  through  an  arm 
of  the  sea  called  Loch  Linhee,  and  landed  at  a  small  village  on  its  eastern 
shore,  for  the  purpose  of  making  the  ascent  of  Ben  Nevis,  the  highest  moun- 
tain in  Scotland.  Various  mountain  peaks  were  visible,  lifting  their  green 
heads  up  all  around  ;  but  Ben  Nevis,  the  monarch  of  them  all,  was  shut  out 
from  view  among  soft,  wool-like  clouds.  The  next  day,  in  company  with 
a  guide,  he  effected  the  ascent  after  four  hours  of  toilsome  labor.  The  lower 
part  is  a  broad  expanse  of  pasturage,  on  which  subsist  large  flocks  of  sheep  ; 
the  upper,  is  a  mass  of  stones  and  debris,  and  beyond  the  limit  of  vegetation. 
At  its  summit,  the  sun  was  shining  brightly,  while  the  summer  clouds 
beneath  shut  out  all  view  of  the  lower  world.  But  our  traveler  found  conso- 
lation in  the  reflection  of  being  elevated  so  far  above  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. With  the  pleasant  sensation  which  resting  confers,  after  severe  physi- 
cal effort,  he  sat  down  beside  a  cairn — a  tall  monument  of  stones,  raised  to 
commemorate  some  event — breathed  in  the  balmy  air,  and  mused  upon  the 
awful  solitude,  desolation,  and  grave-like  quiet  that  rested  upon  all  things. 

The  spot  where  Mr.  Abbott  landed,  is  in  a  vast  fissure,  called  the  Great 
Glen  of  Scotland  :  it  begins  with  Loch  Linhee  at  Oban,  on  the  Atlantic 
shore,  and  running  in  a  northeast  direction,  clear  across  the  heart  of  the 
country  for  about  a  hundred  miles,  terminates  at  the  German  ocean,  leaving 
on  the  north,  about  one-third  of  Scotland.  It  varies  in  width,  from  one  to 
three  miles.  About  seventy  miles  of  this  valley  are  occupied  by  long  and 
narrow  strips  of  water  or  lochs,  of  variable  size.  Through  this  opening  has 
been  constructed  the  Caledonian  canal,  the  labor  of  building  which,  was 
comparatively  slight,  from  the  natural  navigation  furnished  so  much  of  the 
way  by  the  lochs.  The  passage  of  the  canal,  which  is  effected  by  steamers, 
is  pleasant  from  the  variety  of  the  scenery  ;  the  wild  and  mountainous  char- 
acter of  the  country  ;  the  rude  villages  and  the  ancient  castles  and  modem 
forts.     Starting  in  a  small  steamer  from  the  Atlantic  side,  our  traveler  fount' 


A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND.  109 

an  ah  of  solitude  resting  upon  the  scene.  The  canal  was  seen  before  them, 
winding  its  way  along  a  narrow,  but  cultivated  and  verdant  valley,  while  on 
either  side,  ran  long  ranges  of  mountains,  with  here  and  there  scattered  cot- 
tages along  their  green  slopes.  Not  any  villages  nor  busy  landings  were  in 
view,  the  canal  appearing  to  be  principally  devoted  to  transporting  a  few 
tourists  along  the  chain  of  lochs.  As  they  advanced,  the  rich  green  of  the 
heather  disappeared,  and  projecting  ledges  gave  the  slopes  a  stern  and  deso- 
late aspect;  occasionally,  however,  some  broad,  lateral,  fertile  glen  opened  to 
view,  disclosing  fields  of  waving  grain,  and  sometimes  the  country  houses  or 
hunting-boxes  of  the  gentry,  peering  forth  from  a  mass  of  shrubbery.  At 
one  place,  they  passed  within  a  few  rods  of  two  gentlemen  reclining  upon  a 
grassy  lawn,  in  front  of  one  of  these  residences,  and  gazing  at  their  boat  as  it 
glided  by.      Our  traveler  was  at  the  moment  conversing  with  the  captain, 

who  told  him  that  Lord owned  that  estate.     "  He  has  recently  bought 

it  for  thirty-five  thousand  pounds.  That  is  he,  with  the  white  hat,  lying  upon 
the  grass."  The  place  was  beautiful,  but  the  region  round  about,  desolate 
and  lonely.  "What  portion  of  the  year,  does  the  owner  spend  here?" 
inquired  Mr.  A.  "  Oh,"  rejoined  the  captain,  "only  two  or  three  weeks  in 
the  shooting  season.  He  only  bought  it  for  his  amusement,  and  keeps  it  just 
for  game.     He  has  very  large  estates  in  England." 

At  the  end  of  Loch  Ness,  the  mountains  give  place  to  a  broad  and  fertile 
country,  of  surpassing  rural  loveliness.  It  was  harvest-time,  and  the  reapers 
were  at  work  in  immense  bands,  there  being  in  one  spot,  a  line  of  fifty  or 
more,  principally  women,  who,  as  they  advanced  together,  carried  the  whole 
field  with  them.  Immense  stacks  of  hay  and  oats  were  being  constructed  in 
various  spots,  as  large  and  as  regular  in  shape  as  a  barn.  Amid  this  scen- 
ery, stands  the  charming  town  of  Inverness,  with  its  handsome  villas  and 
gardens  ;  and  just  east  of  it,  on  the  margin  of  Moray  Frith,  is  the  fatal  field 
of  Culloden  Moor,  where,  in  1745,  perished  the  cause  of  Charles  Stuart  and 
the  power  of  the  Highland  chieftains  was  broken  forever.  Every  schoolboy 
recollects  the  pathetic  lines  of  Campbell,  where  the  wizard,  on  meeting  the 
gallant  Lochiel,  forewarns  him  of  this  event — of  the  defeat  of  the  Highland- 
ers, and  the  flight  of  their  king  : 

"  Lochiel,  Lochiel !  beware  of  the  day, 
When  the  Lowlands  shall  meet  thee,  in  battle  array; 
For  a  field  of  the  dead  rushes  red  on  my  sight, 
And  the  clans  of  Cnlloden  are  scattered  in  fight. 
***** 

'Tis  the  sunset  of  life  gives  me  mystical  lore, 

And  coming  events  cast  their  shadows  before. 

I  tell  thee,  Culloden's  dread  echoes  shall  ring, 

"With  the  bloodhounds  that  bark  for  thy  fugitive  king. 

Lo !  anointed  by  heaven  with  the  vials  of  wrath, 

Behold,  where  he  flies  on  his  desolate  path ! 

Now,  in  darkness  and  billows,  be  sweeps  from  my  sight: 

Rise,  rise!  ye  wild  tempests,  and  cover  his  flight! 

'Tis  finished  !  their  thunders  are  hushed  on  the  moors: 

Culloden  is  lost,  and  my  country  deplores." 

From  Inverness  our  traveler  again  turned  southward,  toward  Edinburgh. 


HO  A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND. 

passing  through  the  old  town  of  Perth,  which  is  some  forty-five  miles  north 
of  the  capital,  the  intervening  country  being  highly  cultivated,  and  present- 
ing in  its  broad  fields,  plantations  of  trees,  parks,  lawns,  villages,  and  farm- 
houses, a  strong  contrast  to  the  Highlands,  and  the  rude  homes  of  their  in- 
habitants. Near  midway,  stands  Loch  Leven,  a  wide  lake,  some  fifteen 
miles  around,  imbosoming  in  its  center,  a  small,  low  island,  where  in  the 
midst  of  a  grove  of  evergreens,  stand  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  its  walls 
grown  over  with  moss  and  creepers,  in  which  Queen  Mary  was  imprisoned. 
Mr.  Abbott  having  engaged  some  boatmen,  was  rowed  to  the  spot,  and  gives 
a  lengthy  and  interesting  description.  The  castle  was  very  small,  and  Mary 
was  shut  up  in  a  little  tower  overhanging  the  water.  After  a  confinement 
of  several  months,  she  escaped  in  a  boat,  through  the  aid  of  George  Doug- 
lass, a  young  man,  and  brother  of  the  keeper,  who  became  interested  in  the 
beautiful  and  unhappy  prisoner.  While  our  traveler  was  gazing  upon  the 
scene,  his  guide  narrated  the  events  of  her  escape  and  subsequent  history,  in 
language  that  Scott  would  have  been  eager  to  have  embodied  in  a  tale,  and 
ended  with  saying,  that  after  "  she  got  awa',  she  brocht  a  few  o'  her  freends 
thegither,  but  could  na'  mak'  head  against  her  enemies ;  an'  sae  she  fled  to 
England,  in  hopes  she  could  fin'  somebody  to  tak'  pairt  wi'  her  there  :  but 
she  was  joost  taken  up  by  Queen  Eleezbeth,  wha  was  her  ain  cuisin,  an'  shut 
up  in  prison  for  many  years,  an'  then  beheaded.  She  was  very  hardly  used 
puir  leddy  ;  but  she  held  firm  to  her  principles  through  it  a'." 

In  ancient  times,  castles  were  first  erected  and  formed  points  around  which 
towns  by  degrees  grew  up.  Such  was  the  case  with  the  old  castle  of  Edin- 
burgh, which  yet  stands  on  a  lofty  eminence  in  the  Old  town,  and  is  noted  in 
history.  The  regalia,  consisting  of  the  crown,  the  scepter,  and  the  sword  of 
state,  with  other  royal  emblems  of  the  ancient  monarchy  of  Scotland,  are  ye* 
preserved  within  its  walls.  After  the  crowns  of  England  and  Scotland  be- 
came united,  in  the  person  of  Charles  I,  that  monarch  ordered  the  regalia  to 
be  taken  to  London.  This,  the  Scotch  would  not  agree  to  ;  though  they  ac- 
knowledged that  he  was  lawfully  their  king,  but  claimed  that  Scotland  was 
a  distinct  monarchy  from  England,  and  that  he  must  come  to  Scone,  the  an- 
cient place  of  the  coronation  of  the  Scottish  kings,  to  be  crowned. 

After  the  execution  of  Charles,  Cromwell  made  war  upon  the  Scotch  roy- 
alists, and  endeavored  to  get  possession  of  the  regalia.  These  being  of  im- 
mense pecuniary  value,  apart  from  other  considerations,  were  sent  to  Dun- 
nottar  castle,  a  strong  position  on  the  sea-coast,  south  of  Aberdeen,  for 
safety.  This  castle  became  invested  by  a  strong  military  force,  and  as  it  was 
evident  that  it  could  not  stand  a  long  siege,  the  royal  emblems  were  in  im- 
minent danger  of  soon  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  English.  They  were, 
however,  saved  by  a  stratagem  of  a  lady — a  Mrs.  Granger,  the  wife  of  a 
clergyman,  in  an  adjoining  parish.  Having  obtained  permission  of  the  En- 
glish general  to  visit  the  lady  of  the  Governor,  she  took  with  her  two  maids, 
who  on  their  return,  carried  out  the  sword  and  scepter,  secreted  in  some 
bundles  of  flax,  which  they  said,  they  were  going  to  spin  for  the  governor's 
*ady.  The  crown,  Mrs.  Granger  secreted  about  her  person,  and  that  same 
night,  her  husband  buried  them  under  the  pavement-stone  in  front  of  his 


A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND.  HI 

pulpit.  A  few  weeks  after,  when  the  castle  surrendered,  the  English  general 
finding  the  regalia — the  great  object  of  his  efforts — missing,  treated  the  gover- 
nor and  his  lady  with  great  cruelty,  to  force  them  to  confess  where  they  were 
deposited.  The  latter  died  some  time  after,  in  consequence,  it  was  said,  of 
injuries  received  in  the  vain  attempt  to  extort  the  secret  from  her. 

On  the  restoration  of  the  monarchy  in  England,  the  regalia  were  placed  in 
possession  of  the  Scottish  parliament,  and  all  those  who  had  been  connected 
in  their  preservation  rewarded.  At  the  consummation  of  the  union  of  the 
kingdoms  of  Scotland  and  England,  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  the 
Scottish  people  were  much  excited,  and  many  deeply  opposed  to  the  measure  ; 
therefore,  to  allay  the  excitement,  the  royal  emblems  were  locked  up  out 
of  view,  in  an  enormous  oaken,  iron-bound  chest,  and  placed  in  a  strong, 
prison-like  room  in  Edinburgh  Castle.  The  apartment  then  remained  un- 
opened for  ninety  years,  and  the  chest  itself  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  longer. 
At  length,  generations  having  passed  away  and  the  public  mind  being  at  rest 
upon  the  subject  of  the  union,  orders  were  given,  about  the  year  1817,  to  open 
the  chest,  and  bring  to  light  these  royal  emblems,  upon  which  no  eye  had 
rested  for  more  than  a  century. 

Sir  Walter  Scott  was  appointed  among  the  commissioners  for  this  purpose. 
There  was  intense  interest  and  excitement  in  the  crowds  which  surrounded 
the  castle  during  the  opening  of  the  chest.  Numerous  stories  were  afloat, 
and  many  declared  that  the  emblems  would  not  be  found — that  they  had 
been  stolen  away  to  England.  Of  course,  no  one  could  prove  to  the  contrarv. 
The  room  was  entered,  the  chest  broken  open,  and  the  treasures  found  safe. 
As  evidence  of  success,  a  flag  was  raised  upon  the  castle,  whereupon  the 
multitude  filled  the  air  with  oft-repeated  huzzas.  There  the  regalia  still  re- 
main, and  from  that  day  to  this,  they  have  been  visited  by  an  almost  uninter- 
rupted succession  of  strangers.  Beside  the  regalia,  there  are  several  other 
of  the  royal  jewels  and  badges  deposited  beside  them.  They  all  lie  upon 
velvet  cloths  and  cushions,  beneath  an  iron  grating  :  the  rich  gold  and  bril- 
liant gems,  in  the  dim  light  of  the  place,  sparkle  with  a  most  imposing  effect. 

Early  one  morning,  before  the  sun  had  risen,  our  traveler  mounted  a 
stage-coach  in  Glasgow,  being  on  the  point  of  his  departure  from  the  roman- 
tic and  picturesque  land  of  the  Scots.  Standing  about  in  the  streets,  were 
numerous  groups  of  countrymen  and  women,  each  furnished  with  sickles,  and 
waiting  to  be  hired  for  the  day,  to  reap  in  the  neighboring  fields,  by  farmers 
or  their  agents,  who  were  walking  among  them  for  this  purpose.  In  Great 
Britain,  the  word  farmer,  describes  a  different  sort  of  person  from  what  it  does 
in  our  country.  He  is  there  a  kind  of  semi-gentleman,  a  point  midway 
between  the  proprietor  and  the  laborer.  He  hires  from  the  former,  the  right 
simply  to  crop  the  land  ;  another — generally  the  proprietor  himself — has 
"  the  shooting,"  and  not  unfrequently  somebody  else  still,  "  the  fishing." 

Neither  is  the  proprietor,  in  our  sense,  the  owner  of  the  soil.  He  only  has 
the  use  of  the  estate  dt  ring  lifetime ;  he  can  neither  sell  nor  give  it  away  on 
decease  ;  its  use  falls  to  his  eldest  son,  by  the  law  of  entail,  who  is  the  solo 
representative  of  his  family,  and  so  on  in  rotation,  generation  after  genera- 
tion.    The  rest  of  the  brothers  and  sisters  are  left  to  be  provided  for  other- 


;Q2  A  SUMMER  IjS  SCOTLAND. 

wise  ;  usually  they  are  obliged  to  shift  for  themselves.  As  the  sons  grow  up; 
some  are  sent  into  the  army,  some  into  the  navy,  others  embrace  professions, 
and  all  are  obliged  to  work  for  their  living,  that  the.  '^family  "  name  and  for- 
tune may  be  aggrandized  in  the  person  of  the  eldest  son.  The  Englishman  is 
proud  in  having  a  long  line  of  ancestors,  and  is  desirous  for  its  continuance 
through  all  future  generations.  Abominable  and  unjust  as  the  law  of  entail 
seems  to  us,  yet  it  is  probable  that  if  it  were  abolished,  English  gentlemen  would 
generally  make  wills  to  endeavor  to  effect  the  same  purpose.  As  our  traveler 
was  leaving  Glasgow  in  the  mail  coach,  a  fellow-passenger  conversing  with  him 
upon  these  subjects,  was  told  by  him,  that  in  America,  the  testator  could 
leave  his  property  to  any  person  he  chose.  "  Indeed  !"  replied  the  English- 
man, "  I  thought  your  laws  required  its  being  divided  equally.''  "  Not  at 
all,"  rejoined  the  other  ;  "  our  laws  divide  it  equally,  in  the  absence  of  any 
testamentar7  directions  ;  but  the  proprietor  may  convey  it  by  his  will,  as  he 
pleases."  "  Then,  why  does  he  not  give  it  all  to  his  oldest  son  ?"  "  Because 
he  loves  the  others  just  as  much  as  he  does  him."  "  But  does  he  not  want 
to  found  a  family  ?"  continued  the  Englishman,  in  accents  of  surprise. 

On  the  Scottish  border,  the  coach  reached  a  neat  little  village,  the  famous 
Gretna  Green,  and  the  coachman  pointed  to  a  handsome  white  house,  seen 
through  intervening  shrubbery,  where  runaway  couples  are  united. 

At  Carlisle,  a  few  miles  farther  on,  the  company  changed  to  the  cars,  and 
went  on  at  railroad  speed.  Soon  after,  our  traveler  took  a  branch  line  which 
led  into  the  famous  lake  and  mountain  region  of  Cumberland,  in  the  north- 
western part  of  England,  and  noted  the  world  over  for  its  romantic  scenery. 
It  was  Saturday  afternoon,  and  he  felt  desirous  to  go  to  some  quiet  place, 
where  lie  could  pass  the  approaching  Sabbath  ;  and  where  would  he  find  one 
more  appropriate  than  Windermere  ?  the  home  of  the  poet  Wordsworth,  and 
a  spot  of  surpassing  rural  loveliness  -and  beauty. 

The  sun  went  down  ere  he  reached  the  place,  and  the  mountains  and  val- 
leys were  assuming  the  dark,  somber  hue  of  night,  when  he  was  set  down  at 
the  castle-like  inn  on  the  borders  of  the  romantic  lake,  Windermere.  He 
ordered  his  evening  meal,  and  while  it  was  preparing,  "  began  to  mount  a 
hill  behind  the  house,  which  seemed  to  be  a  sort  of  stepping-stone  to  the 
mountains  beyond."  "  I  walked,"  says  he,  "  along  a  little  path,  through 
recently  reaped  fields,  with  a  high  wall  on  one  side,  which  shut  me  out  from 
some  gentleman's  park  or  pleasure  grounds.  Groups  of  trees  were  scattered 
here  and  there,  and  old  walls  and  hedges,  over  and  through  which,  I  made 
my  way  slowly,  in  the  dimness  of  twilight.  I  seated  myself  on  the  rocks  on 
the  summit,  and  looked  far  and  wide,  over  the  valleys  which  were  spread  out 
before  me.  Lights  began  to  glimmer  here  and  there,  from  the  quiet  English 
homes,  with  which  these  valleys  wese  filled.  The  lake  resumed  its  reflec- 
tions of  the  evening  sky  in  its  sheltered  parts,  and  was  ruffled  by  the  evening 
breeze  in  others.  The  scene  was  impressive  and  almost  solemn.  But  it  soon 
became  too  cool  for  me  to  remain,  notwithstanding  the  protection  of  the 
Highland  plaid,  which  almost  every  tourist  has  around  him,  in  coming  out 
of  Scotland.  I  reflected  that  it  was  September,  and  that  1  was  in  England 
Wy  Summer  in  Scotland,  was  ended  and  gone." 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION 


TO   THE 


PACIFIC  OCEAN 


LANDING   ON   THE    ANTARCTIC    CONTINENT. 


CHAPTER  I. 


.introductory  observations — Departure — Polar  Current— Madeira — Cape  De  Yerd  Islancr* — 
Rio  Janeiro — Cruise  in  the  Southern  Polar  Region — Loss  of  the  Sea  Gull — Valparaiso — 
Callao— the  Paumotu  Group — Origiu  of  the  Coral  Islands — Society  Islands — Navigator'a 
Group — Council  with  the  Natives — Curious  Customs  —  Humanity  to  the  Females — 
Sidney — Second  Cruise  in  the  Antarctic  Seas — Discovery  of  the  Antarctic  Continent — 
Perils— Return  to  Sidney — Navigators  in  the  South  Polar  Seas — Briscoe  and  Ballcny — Dis- 
coveries of  D'Urvillo  and  Sir  James  Ross — Facts  respecting  the  Antarctic  Continent. 

To  enlarge  the  boundaries  of  geographical  knowledge,  thus  opening  new 

avenues  for  commercial  enterprise,  and   for  the  introduction  of  the  arts  and 

refinements  of  civilization  among  uncultivated  and  barbarous  tribes,  and  so 

increasing  the  amount  of  human  happiness,  is  among  the  most  noble  objects 

8  113 


114  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

which  can  demand  the  attention  of  a  great  nation.  Since  the  discovery  of 
the  mariner's  compass,  the  principal  commercial  nations  of  the  world,  actua- 
ted by  various  motives,  have  sent  forth  innumerable  expeditions  upon  the 
broad  expanse  of  waters  that  encircle  the  globe,  to  advance  the  cause  of 
science,  or  to  discover  new  lands,  thus  making  the  acquaintance  of  stranger- 
races,  and  bringing  to  light  and  to  use,  the  many  previously  unknown,  and 
peculiar  productions  of  far  distant  climes,  which  minister  to  the  welfare,  or  to 
the  luxury  of  man. 

Our  own  country — but  the  creation  of  yesterday — until  recently,  was  too 
much  absorbtd  in  laying  the  foundations  of  her  youthful  institutions  on  a 
sound  basis,  for  coming  generations,  to  turn  her  gaze  outward,  to  objects  not 
intimately  connected  with  this  grand  end.  But  the  time  had  come,  when  the 
rank  to  which  she  had  grown  among  commercial  nations,  required  that  she 
should  take  her  place  in  the  wide  field  of  maritime  discovery. 

Accordingly,  her  first  and  pioneer  expedition  was  organized  in  the  year 
1838,  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Chas.  Wilkes,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy.  On 
the  18th  of  August,  of  that  year,  the  vessels  composing  the  squadron,  sailed 
from  Hampton  Roads,  Virginia.  They  were  three  in  number,  and  consisted 
of  the  sloops  of  war  Vincennes,  and  Peacock,  and  the  store-ship  Relief;  to 
these  were  subsequently  added  two  tenders — the  Sea  Gull,  and  the  Flying- 
Fish. 

At  that  period,  England,  France,  Spain,  and  Portugal,  fitted  out  expedi- 
tions for  the  same  destination, — the  island  world  of  the  Pacific.  This  vast 
ocean — stretching  its  blue  waters,  nearly  one  quarter  the  distance  round  the 
globe,  on  the  one  extreme  laving  the  shores  of  the  New  World,  and  on  the 
other,  dashing  its  surf  upon  the  older  continent  of  Asia — is  studded  with 
myriads  of  islands,  in  places,  as  thickly  as  the  canopy  of  Heaven  is  studded 
with  stars.  Many  of  these  are  of  exquisite  beauty,  rising  in  living  green 
from  out  the  blue  of  ocean.  The  most  gorgeous  luxuriance  of  vegetation  is 
always  present;  flowering  trees  and  shrubs,  of  every  color,  are  ever  in  bloom  ; 
luscious  fruits  the  whole  year  round,  hang  tempting,  in  bounteous  profusion, 
requiring  no  other  care  than  the  putting  forth  of  the  hand  that  stretches  to 
pluck  them  ;  animals  of  graceful  forms,  bound  through  the  forests  ;  birds  of 
rare  plumage,  and  of  melodious  notes,  flit  from  bough  to  bough  ;  sweet  land- 
scapes, where  hill  and  valley,  land  and  water,  soltly  melt  and  blend,  delight 
the  eye  ;  and  finally,  an  atmosphere,  so  delicious,  and  so  bland,  that  every 
breath  is  a  luxury,  seems  to  render  their  fascinations  complete.  Unhappily, 
as  in  other  of  the  most  favored  parts  of  our  world,  these  blessings  are  be- 
stowed upon  unworthy  objects.  Many  of  these  islands  swarm  with  the  lowest 
and  the  vilest  of  our  race, — with  treacherous  savages,  sunk  to  the  most 
degraded  forms  of  idolatry — with  ravenous  cannibals,  ever  eager  to  murder 
the  weak  and  defenseless,  that  they  may  glut  their  ghoul-like  appetites. 

The  islands  of  the  Pacific,  until  very  recently,  were  but  imperfectly  known- 
The  increasing  demands  of  commerce  required  that  some  of  the  more  promi- 
nent should  be  examined,  their  position  and  forms  accurately  determined, 
and  the  best  harbors  discovered  and  surveyed.  Treaties  of  amity  with  the 
natives  were  necessary  for  the  protection  of  the  mercantile  marine.     Aside 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  115 

from  these  duties,  the  American  expedition  were  to  make  surveys  on  certain 
points  of  the  South  American  coast,  on  the  coasts  of  Oregon,  and  of  Cali- 
fornia, to  make  explorations  in  the  antarctic  seas,  and  finally,  among  the 
larger  islands  near  the  south-eastern  coast  of  Asia.  A  full  corps  of  scientific 
gentlemen  accompanied  the  expedition,  with  all  the  necessary  apparatus  for 
observing  the  weather,  and  astronomical  and  atmospherical  phenomena. 
Among  these  was  a  philologist,  to  study  the  structure  of  the  various  lan- 
guages of  the  people  among  whom  they  might  be  thrown,  and  thus  learn  the 
history  of  their  origin,  by  the  similarity  of  their  words  to  those  of  other  na- 
tions— three  naturalists  ;  a  mineralogist ;  an  instrument  maker,  to  repair  the 
instruments  ;  a  taxidermist,  to  prepare  and  preserve  specimens  of  animals  ; 
and,  finally,  two  draughtsmen,  to  make  pictures  for  future  use,  of  painted 
01  tattooed  savages,  tropical  or  antarctic  landscapes,  storm-driven  or  ice- 
bound vessels,  curious  beasts,  birds,  or  fishes,  insects,  snakes,  vegetables,  and 
shells,  for  science  is  so  omniverous  in  its  tastes,  that  it  deems  nothing  too 
humble  to  study,  which  the  Almighty  deems  not  too  humble  to  create. 

Soon  after  the  expedition  had  left  the  Capes  of  Virginia,  the  influence  of 
the  cold  polar  current  began  to  be  felt.  This  current  flows  parallel  to  the 
coast,  from  Davis's  Straits,  in  the  Arctic  Seas,  to  Cape  Hatteras,  along  the 
inner  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream.  As  they  entered  this  stream,  the  thermom- 
eter rose  in  a  short  time  from  77°  to  83°,  but  again  fell  to  a  temperature  of 
about  80°,  showing  that  the  stream  is  warmer  on  its  inner  edi^e.  The 
later  examinations  of  Lieut.  Bache  shows  that  this  current  of  warm  water, 
480  fathoms  deep,  divides  itself  into  two  channels,  separated  by  a  portion  of 
cold  water:  the  change  is  as  sudden  as  if  the  two  were  separated  by  a  wall. 

On  the  25th  of  August,  they  steered  for  Madeira.  The  weather  continued 
pleasant,  and  flying-fish,  and  shoals  of  beautiful  dolphins  were  numerous. 
An  enormous  cotton-wood  tree,  covered  with  barnacles,  was  descried,  which 
had  probably  grown  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  several  thousand  miles 
distant. 

Early  in  October,  the  Azores  were  passed,  and  the  rocky  cliffs  of  Madeira 
rose  in  view.  This  mountain  island,  to  an  unsurpassed  climate,  unites  the 
productions  of  the  torrid  and  temperate  zones.  Terraces,  supported  by  walls, 
gird  its  lofty  cliffs.  On  the  lowest  of  these  grow  lemons,  oranges,  citrons; 
next,  figs,  pomegranates,  and  bananas  ;  still  higher,  currants,  apples,  peaches, 
plums,  tomatoes ;  and  above  all,  the  potatoe. 

The  Cape  de  Verd  islands  were  next  reached,  and  from  thence  they  de- 
parted for  Rio  Janeiro,  where  they  arrived  in  the  last  week  of  November. 

On  the  6th  of  January,  1838,  the  squadron  departed  from  Rio  Janeiro. 
Five  weeks  after,  the  snow-clad  peaks,  and  barren  rocks  of  Terra  del  Fuego 
loomed  up  above  the  horizon,  and  in  a  month  more,  having  doubled  the 
stormy  Cape  Horn,  they  were  at  anchor  in  Orange  Harbor.  This,  one  of  the 
best  harbors  on  the  Fuegan  coast,  was  entered  by  Capt.  Cook,  to  obtain  wood 
and  water  for  his  antarctic  cruise. 

In  the  latter  part  of  February,  all  except  the  Relief,  departed  for  a  cruise 
of  discovery  in  the  southern  polar  regions.  Their  progress  became  impeded 
bj  ice,  and  wintery  storms,  and  the  Peacock  was  saved,  only  with  great  diffi- 


116  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

culty.  Splendid  exhibitions  of  the  Aurora  Australis,  illuminated  these  dreary 
Reas,  and  in  all  their  glory,  were  seen  that  beautiful  constellation,  the  southern 
cross,  the  zodiacal  light,  and  the  magellanic  clouds, — those  three  clusters  of 
congregated  stars,  discovered  by  Magellan,  whose  light  is  faded  by  their  ira 
mense  distance,  to  a  vapor-like  hue. 

In  May,  the  squadron,  which  had  been  separated,  rendezvoused  at  Valpa- 
raiso, except  the  Sea  Gull,  which  encountered  a  storm  in  the  latter  part  of 
April,  and  nothing  more  was  ever  known  of  her  or  of  her  hapless  crew. 
From  thence,  they  sailed  to  Calloa,  remained  there  a  month,  and  then,  bid- 
ding adieu  to  the  light  skies  and  fertile  soil  of  Peru,  turned  their  course  west- 
ward, for  the  beautiful  islands  imbosomed  in  the  Pacific. 

On  the  13th  of  August,  the  green  coast  of  Clermont  de  Tennere,  or  Mi- 
nerva Island  rose  out  of  the  ocean  before  them,  and  as  they  landed  the 
natives  fled  in  terror.  This  belongs  to  the  Paumotu  group,  or  cloud  of 
islands,  sixty-five  in  number,  and  formed  of  coral.  Ten  days  after,  they  were 
at  the  Disappointment  islands.  The  natives  seemed  friendly,  but  concealed 
their  females,  fearing  they  would  be  carried  off  by  their  strange  visitois.  In 
this  vicinitj'-,  at  King's  island,  they  found  abundance  of  spring  water,  and 
cocoanuts,  but  no  inhabitants ;  traces  of  the  visits  of  pearl  fishermen  were 
seen.  The  day  after  the  30th,  they  came  up  with  Raraka  island,  one  of  the 
largest  Of  the  Paumotu  group,  and  were  received  kindly  by  the  natives,  who 
had  been,  in  a  measure,  civilized  by  missionaries. 

Several  of  these  islands  were  surveyed,  by  stationing  the  vessels  at  inter- 
vals around  them,  and  measuring  base  lines,  by  means  of  guns  fired  at  each 
station,  in  quick  succession.  It  is  a  rough  mode,  and  only  an  approximation 
to  accuracy.  Light  passes  from  the  sun  to  the  earth  in  eight  seconds,  and 
for  any  distance  on  the  earth  is  almost  instantaneous  ;  sound,  however,  travels 
slowly,  1090  feet,  or  about  one-fifth  of  a  mile  per  second.  By  noting  the 
lapse  of  time  between  the  flash  and  report  of  their  guns,  the  distances  of  the 
vessels  apart  were  given.  Then  by  each  vessel  taking  observations  with  a 
compass,  of  the  same  objects  upon  the  shore,  they  were  placed  in  possession 
of  all  the  elements  necessary  for  calculating  its  general  outline. 

The  geology  of  the  Paumotu  group  has  been  the  subject  of  much  inquiry. 
Captain  Wilkes,  after  various  experiments  of  interest,  advances  the  opinion 
that  the  Coral  Islands  of  the  Pacific,  are  fragments  of  a  vast  continent,  the 
less  solid  parts  of  which,  in  the  course  of  ages,  have  been  worn  away  by  the 
action  of  the  waters.  The  whole  population  of  these  islands  is  about  ten 
thousand,  some  of  whom  are,  or  were,  recently,  cannibals,  and  live  in  loath- 
some wretchedness.  On  the  more  western  islands,  are  many  native  mission- 
aries, and  the  people  there  are  comfortable  and  prosperous. 

After  making  pretty  full  examinations  of  this  cluster,  the  squadron  by  the 
middle  of  September,  were  at  anchor  in  Matavia  Bay,  on  the  island  of  Tahiti  or 
Otaheite  as  it  was  formerly  called.  This,  the  principal  of  the  Society  islands,  has 
been  called  "the  brightest  gem  of  the  Pacific."  Far  distant  it  is  descried  by 
the  mariner  from  its  lofty  mountains,  which  rise  up  from  a  beautiful  country, 
luxuriant  in  the  richest  productions  of  the  tropics  to  a  height  of  seven  aud 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  117 

nine  thousand  feet.  While  they  remained,  they  were  treated  in  the  most 
hospitable  manner  by  the  civil  authorities,  missionaries,  and  natives. 

Directly  after  the  arrival  of  the  squadron,  a  few  weeks  later,  at  the  Samoan 
or  Navigators'  Group,  all  the  islands  were  divided  among  the  vessels,  to  be 
surveyed,  and  an  observatory  to  be  established  on  Tutuila.  Afono  or  council 
was  soon  held  by  the  chiefs  of  the  group,  at  the  request  of  Captain  Wilkes, 
in  which  resolutions  for  the  protection  of  American  whalers  were  passed  ; 
but  as  the  Samoans  are  crafty  and  treacherous,  little  dependence  was  to  be 
placed  upon  them.  During  their  stay  a  council  of  chiefs  tried  a  native  for 
the  murder  of  an  American  the  year  previous.  Finding  him  guilty,  they 
were  preparing  to  hang  him,  when  the  officers  interfered,  and  had  his  punish- 
ment commuted  to  perpetual  banishment,  and  when  they  departed  took  him 
to  Wallis's  island. 

The  Samoan  Group  were  discovered  in  1768,  by  Count  de  Bouganville,  a 
celebrated  French  navigator.  The  climate  is  fine,  the  vegetation  most  luxu- 
riant, and  the  scenery  enchanting.  The  land  sloping  up  gradually  from  the 
shores,  is  often  diversified  by  hill  and  valley,  lagoon  and  streamlet,  while 
among  the  green  foliage  of  the  palms  and  cocoa  nuts,  peep  out  the  mission- 
ary's cottage,  and  the  simple  dwellings  of  the  natives  clustered  around  the 
rustic  chapel,  above  all  which  smiles  a  sky  of  cloudless  beauty.  Wide  coral 
reefs,  gigantic  monuments  of  the  industry  of  their  tiny  builders,  surround  these 
islands,  and  as  it  were,  inclose  them  from  the  wild  waves  of  mid  ocean. 

The  natives  have  generally  fine  figures,  frank  pleasing  countenances,  and 
are  remarkably  neat.  They  possess  much  musical  talent,  and  pleasant  voices, 
and  evince  poetical  taste  in  their  beautiful  legends.  A  marked  difference 
exists  between  those  under  missionary  influence  and  others,  called  "  devils' 
Kien,"  their  behavior  being  more  courteous  and  in  accordance  with  civilized 
customs  ;  yet  they  retain  many  of  their  original  habits,  one  of  which  is  in 
saluting  a  visitor  by  rubbing  their  noses  on  the  back  of  his  hand. 

The  condition  of  woman  is  much  better  than  in  most  of  the  South  Sea 
Islands,  and  in  the  Christian  villages,  they  are  employed  in  light  household 
duties,  weaving  mats,  etc.  The  people  pass  much  time  in  reading  and  study, 
of  which  they  seem  to  be  very  fond.  In  each  village  is  a  council  house  for 
public  meetings.  Missionary  efforts,  first  commenced  in  this  group  about 
thirty  years  since,  have  much  benefited  the  people,  one-third  of  whom  are 
now  professing  Christians.  Beside  the  missionaries,  are  150  native  teachers, 
and  over  12,000  pupils  in  the  schools. 

Leaving  these  islands  in  November,  the  squadron  again  steered  westward, 
and  in  nineteen  days  made  the  light  house  of  Port  Jackson  Bay,  on  the  coast 
of  New  Holland,  or  Australia,  as  it  is  now  called.  The  same  night  they  ran 
up  the  harbor  of  Sidney,  the  capital  of  New  South  Wales  ;  in  the  morning 
the  garrison  and  townspeople  were  greatly  surprised  at  seeing  the  American 
flag  wave  over  a  squadron,  which  had  entered  their  harbor  so  silently  and 
unexpectedly. 

The  American  squadron  remained  at  Sidney  about  a  month,  to  prepare  for 
a  cruise  in  the  Antarctic  ocean.     Unfortunately  the  vessels  were  not  suitable 


118 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


for  the  dangerous  service  before  them,  not  having  been  built  with  sufficient 
strength  to  make  their  way  through  the  immense  fields  of  ice  of  the  southern 
Polar  regions. 

Toward  the  last  of  December  they  turned  their  course  toward  that  dark, 
unknown  land,  the  subject  of  so  much  speculation  and  anxious  inquiry.  The 
existence  of  a  vast  southern  continent,  had  been  for  many  years  conjectured 
by  navigators  and  geographers;  but  the  icy  walls  which  closed  in  those  distant 
regions,  seemed  to  forbid  all  hope  of  ever  penetrating  their  mysteries, 


On  the  16th  of  January  (1840),  twenty-one  days  after  leaving  Sidney,  in 
dications  of  land  were  distinctly  observed.  For  several  successive  days, 
attempts  were  continually  made  to  land,  until  the  officers  and  crews,  worn 
down  by  cold  and  excitement,  found  it  impossible,  and  the  vast  masses  of  ice 
and  the  huge  icebergs  gathering  around,  seemed  to  threaten  their  destruction. 
They  persevered  until  the  Peacock  became  in  such  a  shattered  and  almost 
Binking  condition,  that  she  was  obliged  to  return  to  Sidney.  The  Vincennes 
and  Porpoise,  proceeded  westward,  and  on  the  30th,  discovered  Piner's  Bay, 
and  the  name  of  Antarctic  was  first  given  to  the  newly  found  land.  A  fort- 
night later,  was  seen  the  greatest  portion  of  coast  visible  at  any  one  time, 
being  computed  to  be  about  seventy -nine  miles  in  length,  and  elevated,  at  one 
point,  three  thousand  feet.  A  huge  barrier  of  ice  prevented  all  further  in- 
vestigations.    In   consequence    the  vessels  turned  northward,   the    Porpoia* 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  119 

reaching  the  Bay  of  Islands  on  the  26th  of  March,  and  the  Vincennes  at 
Sidney  on  the  10th  of  the  same  month,  where  she  joined  the  Peacock. 

Great  controversy  exists,  as  to  whom  the  honor  of  first  discovering  the 
Antarctic  continent  belongs.  The  distinguished  English  navigators,  Briscoe 
and  Balleny,  each  assert  their  claim,  the  former  in  1831,  and  the  lattei,  in 
1839  ;  but  their  examination  was  merely  cursory.  Another  claimant  to  the 
original  discovery,  was  Dumont  D'  Urville,  highly  esteemed,  while  living,  for 
his  great  scientific  acquirements,  and  his  important  discoveries.  This  cele- 
brated navigator,  in  1837,  left  France,  with  two  corvettes  "  IS  Astrolabe  and  la 
Zelee,  on  an  exploring  cruise  in  the  Antarctic  Seas.  He  visited  the  Southern 
Pacific,  and  having  discovered  Louis  Philippe  Land,  shaped  his  course  to- 
ward the  South  Pole.  On  the  19th  of  January,  he  discovered  land,  on  the 
142d  meridian.  Various  ineffectual  attempts  were  made  to  reach  the  shore, 
though  some  of  the  officers  succeeded  in  making  a  small  inlet  near  the  coast, 
and  of  obtaining  specimens  of  the  granite  rock,  of  which  it  is  composed. 
The  land  which  they  succeeded  in  tracing,  for  the  distance  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  miles,  and  to  which  the  French  commander  gave  the  name  of 
Terre  Adelie,  seemed  to  be  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  and  was  entirely 
destitute  of  vegetation.  He  then  sailed  toward  the  east,  passing  along  for 
about  sixty  miles,  a  solid  wall  of  ice,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 
After  ascertaining  that  this  wall,  supposed  to  be  the  crest,  or  covering  of  a  solid 
body  of  land  extending  to  the  southward,  he  found  himself  obliged,  by  the 
shattered  state  of  his  vessels,  and  the  worn  out  condition  of  his  crew,  to 
return  northward.  The  scientific  discoveries,  of  the  French  and  American 
expeditions,  were  very  similar,  but  the  merit  of  the  original  discovery  of  the 
unexplored  land,  below  New  Holland,  is  generally  conceded  to  Captain 
Wilkes.  This  hazardous  voyage  of  the  French  commander,  proved  to  be  his 
last.  He  was  burned  to  death  in  one  of  the  cars  on  the  railroad,  between 
Paris  and  Versailles,  on  the  8th  of  May,  1842. 

The  most  important,  and  most  varied  information,  in  regard  to  this  sup- 
posed Antarctic  continent,  was  afforded  by  the  researches  of  Captain  Sir 
James  Clark  Ross,  of  the  British  navy,  the  discoverer  of  the  northern  mag- 
netic pole.  His  object  during  his  voyages,  made  between  the  years  1840,  and 
1843,  were  the  improvement  of  the  science  of  Magnetism,  and  the  discovery 
of  the  true  position  of  the  southern  magnetic  pole.  The  term  magnetic  pole, 
signifies  the  spot  where  the  needle  of  the  compass  points  straight  downward, 
and  there  is,  in  the  polar  circle  of  each  hemisphere,  such  a  locality. 

Provided  with  two  vessels,  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  he  sailed  from  England, 
and  in  August,  1840,  arrived  at  Hobart-Town,  in  Van  Diemen's  Land. 
These  differed  from  the  French  and  American  vessels,  in  being  strongly  built, 
and  in  every  way  rendered  suitable  for  along  polar  cruise.  So  staunch  were 
they,  that  he  forced  them  through  a  thick  belt  of  ice  two  hundred  miles 
across,  a  feat  which  would  have  caused  the  inevitable  destruction  of  the 
American  squadron.  Learning  that  the  American  and  French  squadrons  had 
failed  to  get  beyond  67°  south  latitude,  in  the  quarter  he  had  selected  for  his 
own  researches,  he  determined  to  turn  his  attention  to  some  other  point.  He 
left  Hobart-Town  in  November,  1840,  and  in  six  weeks  entered  the  Antarctic 


120  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

regions,  still  farther  to  the  east,  where  he  found  himself  amid  vast  masses 
of  ice. 

On  the  11th  of  January,  1840,  land,  with  lofty  mountains,  was  seen  ahead: 
one  of  these,  ten  thousand  feet  high,  was  named  Mount  Sabine.  "  It  was," 
observes  Ross,  "a  beautifully  clear  evening,  and  we  had  a  most  enchanting 
view  of  the  two  magnificent  ranges  of  mountains,  whose  lofty  peaks,  perfectly 
covered  with  eternal  snow,  rose  to  elevations  varying  from  seven  to  ten  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  The  glaciers  that  filled  their  inter- 
vening valleys,  and  which  descended  from  near  the  mountain  summits,  pro- 
jected in  many  places  several  miles  into  the  sea,  and  terminated  in  lofty 
perpendicular  cliffs.  In  a  few  places  the  rocks  broke  through  their  icy 
covering,  by  which  alone  we  could  be  assured  that  land  formed  the  nucleus 
of  this,  to  appearance,  enormous  iceberg." 

"  On  the  12th,  advantage  was  taken  of  fine  weather  to  effect  a  landing  : 
when  about  three  miles  from  the  shore,  a  boat  put  off  from  each  ship  with 
the  captains  and  several  of  the  officers.  '  We  found,'  says  Sir  J.  Ross,  '  the 
shores  of  the  mainland  completely  covered  with  ice  projecting  into  the  sea, 
and  the  heavy  surf  along  its  edge  forbade  any  attempt  to  land  upon  it ;  a 
strong  tide  carried  us  rapidly  along  between  this  ice-bound  coast  and  the  islands 
among  heavy  masses  of  ice,  so  that  our  situation  was  for  some  time  most  cri- 
tical ;  for  all  the  exertions  our  people  could  use  were  insufficient  to  stem  the 
tide.  But  taking  advantage  of  a  narrow  opening  that  appeared  in  the  ice, 
the  boats  were  pushed  through  it,  and  we  got  into  an  eddy  under  the  lee  of 
the  largest  of  the  islands,  and  landed  on  a  beach  of  large  loose  stones  and 
stranded  masses  of  ice.  The  weather  had  now  put  on  a  most  threatening 
appearance,  the  breeze  was  freshening  fast,  and  the  anxious  circumstances 
under  which  we  were  placed,  together  with  the  recall  flag  flying  at  the  ship's 
mast-head,  which  I  had  ordered  Lieutenant  Bird  to  hoist  if  necessary,  com- 
pelled us  to  hasten  our  operations. 

*  The  ceremony  of  taking  possession  of  these  newly-discovered  lands  in 
the  name  of  our  most  gracious  sovereign  Queen  Victoria  was  immediatelv 
proceeded  with  ;  and  on  planting  the  flag  of  our  country  amidst  the  hearty 
cheers  of  our  party,  we  drank  to  the  health,  long  life  and  happiness  of  her 
Majesty  and  his  Royal  Highness  Prince  Albert.  The  island  was  named  Pos- 
session Island.  It  is  situated  in  latitude  71°  56'  and  longitude  171°  7'  east, 
composed  entirely  of  igneous  rocks,  and  only  accessible  on  its  western  side. 
We  saw  not  the  smallest  appearance  of  vegetation,  but  inconceivable  myriads 
of  penguins  completely  and  densely  covered  the  whole  surface  of  the  island, 
along  the  ledges  of  the  precipices,  and  even  to  the  summits  of  the  hills, 
attacking  us  vigorously  as  we  waded  through  their  ranks,  and  pecking  at  us 
with  their  sharp  beaks,  disputing  possession.  :  which,  together  with  their  loud 
coarse  notes,  and  the  insupportable  stench  from  the  deep  bed  of  guano,  whnh 
had  been  forming  for  ages,  and  which  may  at  some  period  be  valuable  to  the 
agriculturists  of  our  Australian  colonies,  made  us  glad  to  get  away  again,  after 

having  loaded  our  boats  with  geological  specimens  and  penguins After 

a  long  and  heavy  pull,  we  regained  our  ships  only  so  short  a  time  before  so 
thick  a  fog  came   on,  with   a   strong   northerly  breeze,  that   to   have  been 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  121 

a    few    minutes    later    would    have    rendered    our    return    to    the    ships 
impossible.' 

A  heavy  gale  came  on,  but  in  the  rolling  sea  which  it  produced,  indications 
were  gained  of  a  large  space  of  open  water  to  the  windward,  in  the  direction 
most  desired  by  the  explorers.  While  beating  about,  to  prevent  losing 
ground,  other  portions  of  land  were  seen  ;  and  on  the  17th,  when  the  weather 
cleared,  mountain  ranges  were  discovered  at  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles, 
so  great  is  the  refractive  power  of  the  atmosphere  in  icy  regions.  On  the 
21st,  the  dip  was  87°  39',  denoting  a  considerable  approach  toward  the 
magnetic  pole,  a  dip  at  90°  being  straight  downward.  Some  vexation  w as 
felt  that  the  barrier  of  land  ice  stood  in  the  way  of  a  direct  course  to  the 
interesting  spot ;  the  alternative  was,  to  beat  up  and  seek  a  westerly  route. 
On  one  occasion,  while  thus  engaged,  f  it  was,'  to  quote  the  narrative,  the 
most  beautiful  night  we  had  seen  in  these  latitudes,  the  sky  perfectly  clear 
and  serene.  At  midnight,  when  the  sun  was  skimming  along  the  southern 
horizon,  at  an  altitude  of  about  two  degrees,  the  sky  overhead  was  remarked  to 
be  of  a  most  intense  indigo  blue,  becoming  paler  in  proportion  to  the  distance 
from  the  zenith.  The  22d  was  a  notable  day  :  the  ships  were  in  latitude 
74°  20',  higher  than  had  ever  been  reached  by  any  former  navigator,  an 
event  which  naturally  called  forth  much  rejoicing.  The  dip  had  increased 
to  88°  10'  on  the  25th,  leaving  the  presumption  that  the  pole  was  not  more 
than  two  hundred  miles  distant.  Two  days  later,  formal  possession  was 
again  taken  of  an  island,  to  which  the  name  of  Franklin  Island  was  given,  in 
latitude  76°  8'  south,  longitude  168°  12'  east.  It  is  about  twelve  miles  long 
and  six  broad,  devoid  of  all  appearance  of  vegetation  ;  even  the  hardy  mosses 
and  lichens  were  absent,  from  which,  and  other  instances,  Sir  J.  Ross  consi- 
ders, ■  that  the  vegetable  kingdom  has  no  representative  in  antarctic  lands. 
It  is  the  very  sublimity  of  barrenness  ;  and  who,  on  reading  the  description 
will  not  recall  the  lines — 

'  But  here — above,  around,  below, 
On  mountain  or  in  glen, 

Nor  tree,  nor  shrub,  nor  plant,  nor  flower, 

Nor  aught  of  vegetative  power, 
The  weary  eye  may  ken; 

For  all  is  rocks  at  random  thrown, 

Black  waves,  bare  crags,  and  banks  of  stone, 
As  if  were  here  denied 

The  summer  sun,  the  spring's  sweet  dew, 

That  clothe  with  many  a  varied  hue 
The  bleakest  mountain  side. 

Early  on  the  28th,  the  vessels  stood  toward  the  high  land  seen  th*  *»  /• 
before :  '  It  proved  to  be  a  mountain  twelve  thousand  four  hundred  fe*t  ox 
elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  emitting  flame  and  smoke  in  great-  pro- 
fusion ;  at  first  the  smoke  appeared  like  snow-drift,  but  as  we  drew  nearer,  it* 
true  character  became  manifest. 

1  The  discovery  of  an  active  volcano  in  so  high  a  southern  latitude  cannot 
but  be  esteemed  a  circumstance  of  high  geological  importance  and  interest, 
and  contribute  to  throw  some  further  light  on  the  physical  construotion*  o£ 


122  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

our  globe,  I  named  it  Mount  Erebus  ;  and  an  extinct  voleano  to  the  cast- 
ward,  little  inferior  in  height,  being  by  measurement  ten  thousand  nine  hun- 
dred feet  high,  was  named  Mount  Terror.' 

Later  in  the  same  day  the  latitude  was  found  to  be  76°  6',  and  the  vessels 
were  to  the  southward  of  the  magnetic  pole,  the  approach  to  which  was  im- 
peded by  land  ice.  Standing  in  for  the  land  under  all  sail,  I  we  perceived  a 
low  white  line  extending  from  its  eastern  extreme  point  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  discern  to  the  eastward.  It  presented  an  extraordinary  appearance, 
gradually  increasing  in  height  as  we  got  nearer  to  it,  and  proving  at  length  to 
be  a  perpendicular  cliff  of  ice,  between  one  hundred  and  fifty  and  two  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  perfectly  flat  and  level  at  the  top,  and 
without  any  fissure  or  promontories  on  its  even  seaward  face.'  Far  in  the 
rear  a  range  of  mountains  was  seen,  which  were  named  the  Parry  Mountains, 
in  honor  of  the  eminent  arctic  explorer.  They  are  the  most  southerly  land  as 
yet  known  on  the  globe.  The  sight  of  this  barrier  was  a  great  disappointment 
to  all  on  board,  for  they  had  anticipated  being  able  to  push  their  researches 
far  beyond  the  80th  degree  ;  but,  as  Sir  J.  Ross  observes,  they  '  might  with 
equal  chance  of  success,  try  to  sail  through  the  cliffs  of  Dover  as  penetrate 
such  a  mass.'  They  coasted  along  this  icy  wall  to  the  eastward  ;  and  on  the 
2d  February  had  increased  the  latitude  to  78°  4',  the  highest  point  ever 
reachtd  ;  on  the  9th  they  stood  closer  in,  to  a  bay  where  the  cliff  being  low, 
enabled  them  to  look  down  upon  it  from  the  mast-head.  *■  It  appeared  to  be 
quite  smooth,  and  conveyed  to  the  mind  the  idea  of  an  immense  plain  of 
frosted  silver  :  gigantic  icicles  depended  from  every  projecting  point  of  its  per- 
pendicular face.'  Although  in  a  season  answering  to  the  month  of  August 
in  England,  the  temperature  was  not  higher  than  12  degrees,  and  did  not  rise 
above  14  degrees  at  noon  ;  and  so  much  young  ice  was  formed  during  the 
nights  as  to  threaten  a  sudden  stoppage  to  the  exploration,  which,  however, 
was  continued  until  the  13th,  in  hopes  of  coming  to  the  end  of  the  icy  barrier,  or 
to  find  some  passage  through  it  to  the  southward.  But  these  expectations 
were  not  to  be  realized.  After  sailing  along  the  frozen  cliff  for  four  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  the  vessels  bore  up  to  the  westward,  to  make  another  attempt 
to  reach  the  magnetic  pole  before  the  season  finally  closed.  Unlike  the  bergs 
of  the  northern  regions,  which  are  dismembered  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  this 
extraordinary  barrier,  of  probably  more  than  one  thousand  feet  in  thickness, 
crushes  the  undulations  of  the  waves,  and  disregards  their  violence  :  it  is  a 
mighty  and  wonderful  object,  far  beyond  anything  we  could  have  thought  or 
conceived.' 

By  the  17th  it  became  apparent  that  the  endeavor  was  useless  :  a  secure 
harbor  was  then  sought  for,  in  which  the  vessels  might  winter,  and  from 
which  parties  could  be  sent  overland  in  the  spring  to  visit  the  burning  moun- 
tain, whose  frequent  eruptions  afforded  a  magnificent  spectacle,  and  to  disco- 
ver the  great  center  of  magnetic  attraction.  But  after  a  hard  struggle  to 
reach  an  island  through  sixteen  miles  of  intervening  land  ice,  this  attempt 
was  also  abandoned,  not  without  much  regret  on  the  part  of  the  commander, 
who  had  indulged  the  hope  of  planting  the  British  flag  on  the  southern  mag- 
netic pole  as  he  formerly  had  on  the  northern,     Still  there  was  much  satisfac* 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION".  123 

tion  in  knowing  that  they  had  penetrated  farther  toward  the  south  than  any 
other  explorers,  however  adventurous,  and  that  they  had  traced  the  coast  of 
a  great  unknown  continent  from  the  70th  to  the  79th  degree  of  latitude. 
They  were  then  in  latitude  76°  12'  south,  longitude  164°  east,  the  dip 
88°  40'  and  '  were  therefore  only  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  the 
(magnetic)  pole.' 

On  the  25th,  as  Ross  relates,  '  we  had  a  good  view  of  the  coast.  The 
whole  of  the  land  being  perfectly  free  from  cloud  or  haze,  the  lofty  range 
of  mountains  appeared  projected  upon  the  clear  sky  beyond  them  beautifully 
defined  ;  and  although  of  a  spotless  white,  without  the  smallest  patch  of  ex- 
posed rock  throughout  its  whole  extent  to  relieve  it,  yet  the  irregularities  of 
the  surface,  the  numerous  conical  protuberances  and  inferior  eminences,  and 
the  deeply-marked  valleys  occasioned  many  varieties  of  light  and  shade,  that 
destroyed  the  monotonous  glare  of  a  perfectly  white  surface,  but  to  which  it 
is  so  very  difficult  to  give  expression  either  by  the  pencil  or  description.  It 
was  a  most  interesting  scene  to  us,  as  it  was  truly  the  best  view  we  had  of  the 
northern  shore  and  mountains  of  Victoria  Land,  and  of  which  the  western 
extremity  was  by  no  means  the  least  remarkable  feature.' 

The  nights  were  lengthening  ;  stars  became  visible  ;  everything  betokened 
the  rapid  approach  of  winter.  Ross,  however,  determined  on  ascertaining 
whether  any  connection  existed  between  the  new  found  continent  and  the 
Balleny  Isles,  and  bore  up  for  this  purpose.  On  the  evening  of  the  28th  the 
party  had  their  last  sight  of  Victoria  Land  and  the  first  of  the  aurora  australis, 
which  differs  from  the  northern  lights  '  in  the  greater  length  of  the  vertical 
beams,  and  the  frequency  and  suddenness  of  its  appearances  and  disappear- 
ances— more  like  flashes  of  light :  it  was  again  also  perfectly  colorless,  had 
considerable  lateral  flitting  motion,  and  formed  an  irregular  arch  about  thirty 
degrees  high,  whose  center  bore  west.' 

On  the  2d  March  land  was  seen  which  had  the  appearance  of  two  islands  ; 
if  not  part  of  the  group  discovered  by  Balleny  in  1839,  it  was  considered 
they  might  eventually  prove  to  be  mountains.  On  the  4th  March  the  ships 
recrossed  the  antarctic  circle,  having  been  to  the  southward  of  it  for  sixty- 
three  days,  and  on  the  7th  were  for  several  hours  in  a  position  of  extreme 
danger  ;  it  fell  calm,  and  under  the  dead  set  of  the  waves  the  ships  were 
slowly  drifted  down  to  a  range  of  huge  icebergs,  against  which  the  sea  broke 
with  appalling  violence.  Every  eye  was  transfixed  with  the  tremendous 
spectacle,  and  destruction  appeared  inevitable  :  thus  were  they  driven  for 
eight  hours  until  within  half  a  mile  of  the  bergs,  when  a  gentle  air 
stirred,  the  heavy  ships  yielded  slowly  to  its  influence  ;  it  freshened  to  a 
breeze,  and  before  dark,  to  the  heartfelt  thankfulness  of  all,  they  were  far  out 
of  danger.  On  the  6th  April  they  anchored  once  more  at  Hobart  Town,  after 
an  absence  of  five  months." 

In  the  winter  of  1841-42,  Captain  Ross  made  another  voyage  southward 
For  a  thousand  miles,  he  pushed  his  way  through  an  iceberg,  in  which  his 
vessels  became  entangled,  and  while  the  land  was  traced  ten  degrees  farther 
to  the  east,  the  winter  again  set  in.  The  third,  and  last  attempt  made  to 
reach  the  South  Pole,  was  made  in  1842-43,  but  was  attended  with  still  less 


124  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

success,  and  at  last  the  persevering  and  adventurous  navigator  was  obliged 
to  relinquish  his  long  cherished  designs  of  discovery  in  those  impenetrable 
regions,  his  officers  and  men,  being  nearly  exhausted. 

The  observations  he  made,  were  subsequently  completed,  and  the  existence 
of  the  Antarctic  continent,  discovered  by  Captain  Wilkes,  confirmed  by  Lieu- 
tenant Moore,  who  proceeded  from  Cape  Town,  on  a  scientific  expedition  in 
the  barque  Pagoda ;  hired  for  that  purpose  by  the  British  government.  He 
was  unable,  however,  to  penetrate  far,  in  consequenoe  of  the  ice  he 
encountered. 

The  result  of  these  various  expeditions,  nevertheless,  are  of  much  im- 
portance. The  Antarctic  continent  is  found,  from  well  authenticated  evidence, 
to  be  of  a  volcanic  character,  and  several  geological  theories  have  been 
established,  and  various  facts  connected  with  the  animal  and  vegetable  k\n<r- 
dom  discovered.  Here  the  Aurora  Australis  is  seen,  exhibiting  the  most 
beautiful  varieties  of  color,  and  a  brilliancy  that  renders  the  smallest  print 
distinctly  legible.  Bright  pink  flashes  dart  upward  to  the  zenith  and  stream- 
ers of  exquisite  beauty  float  along  the  sky. 

All  traces  of  vegetation  disappeared,  on  penetrating  into  those  regions  of 
ice  and  snow.  The  cabbage  is  the  only  plant  that  flourishes,  with  even 
tolerable  vigor,  as  high  as  50°  south  latitude,  and  beyond  this  only  lichens, 
and  the  lowest  order  of  plants  are  found.  Seals,  whales,  sea-lions,  and  sea- 
elephants,  abound,  and  one  remarkable  fish  called  a  "killer,"  which  attacks 
the  largest  whales,  catches  them  by  the  throat,  and  worries  them  to  death, 
but  as  whalers  say,  eats  no  part  of  them  but  the  tongue.  It  is  about  twenty 
feet  long,  of  a  brownish  color,  and  possesses  immense  strength. 

The  interesting  physical  facts  and  results  brought  to  light  by  these 
voyages,  have  added  materially  to  the  resources  of  science  and  philosophy. 
"  Among  the  more  noteworthy  is  the  discovery  that  the  ocean  which  envelops 
our  globe  is  divided  into  three  thermal  basins  (basins  of  warm  water) — two 
polar,  one  equatorial.  The  bottom  is  occupied  by  a  fluid  layer  more  or  less 
deep,  of  one  uniform  temperature,  39-5.  On  the  equator,  and  in  the  inter- 
tropical regions  where  the  warmth  of  the  sun  penetrates  sensibly,  the  tem- 
perature of  39-5  is  not  reached  at  a  less  depth  than  1200  fathoms  below  the 
surface;  on  the  parallel  of  45°  it  is  found  at  half  this  depth,  and  at  56°  14'  it  is 
the  same  above  and  below.  Thus,  in  the  last-mentioned  latitude  a  circular 
zone  exists  of  constant  and  uniform  temperature.  Sir  J.  Ross  crossed  it  six 
times  in  six  different  longitudes,  and  always  with  the  same  result — the  ap- 
proach to  it  was  invariably  indicated  by  the  thermometer  ;  and  he  considers 
it  as  a  sort  of  neutral  girdle  between  the  two  basins,  and  as  establishing  the 
fact  of  the  actual  mean  temperature  of  the  mass  of  water,  unaffected  by  the 
interior  heat  of  the  earth.  South  of  the  line  the  surface  becomes  colder,  and 
in  latitude  70°,  a  thermometer  must  be  sunk  750  fathoms  to  reach  the  tem- 
perature of  39-5. 

*  This  circle  of  mean  temperature  of  the  southern  ocean,'  as  Sir  John  Ross 
observes,  ■  is  a  standard  point  in  nature,  which  if  determined  with  yery  great 
accuracy,  would  afford  to  philosophers  of  future  ages  the  means  of  ascertain- 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  125 

ing  if  the  globe  we  inhabit  shall  have  undergone  any  change  of  temperature, 
and  to  what  amount,  during  the  interval.' 

We  learn  also  that  the  pressure  of  the  atmosphere  at  the  level  of  the  sea 
is  not  the  same  in  every  part  of  the  globe.  Barometrical  observations  show 
that  this  pressure  increases  gradually  from  the  equator  to  about  the  30th 
parallel,  from  which  it  as  gradually  sinks  up  to  the  pole,  and  falls  below  the 
mean  of  the  equator :  generally  stated,  we  may  say  that,  south  of  Cape 
Horn,  the  Mercury  stands  an  inch  lower  than  in  other  regions.  This  differ- 
ence of  pressure  is  assigned  as  a  mechanical  cause  of  ocean  currents,  of 
which  the  most  powerful  issue  from  the  south  polar  seas  ;  or  it  may  be  that 
the  great  quantity  of  fixed  ice,  or  the  greater  expanse  of  water  in  those 
parts,  admits  of  a  more  powerful  generation  and  propagation  of  streams  than 
in  the  north  ;  and  to  this  cause  we  may  perhaps  refer  the  presence  of  ice- 
bergs 10°  lower  in  the  antarctic  than  in  the  arctic  regions. 

Our  knowledge  of  climatic  phenomena  is  also  enlarged  :  Sandwich  Land, 
in  the  same  latitude  as  the  north  of  Scotland,  is  always  deeply  buried  in  ice 
and  snow,  which  the  summer  fails  to  melt ;  Yorkshire  and  South  Georgia  are 
about  the  same  parallels,  yet  the  only  vegetation  of  the  latter  is  a  few  lichens 
and  mosses  ;  while  Iceland,  which  lies  10°  nearer  to  the  northern  pole,  has 
870  species  of  plants.  Hermit  Island  is  the  most  southerly  land  on  which 
trees  grow." 

Such  are  some  of  the  items  of  knowledge  gained  of  this  remote  quarter 
of  the  globe.  "  Human  enterprise  has  learned  many  of  the  secrets  of  that 
region  of  mighty  contrasts,  and  will  doubtless,  when  opportunity  offers, 
pursue  the  investigation.  Meantime  the  wintery  solitudes  of  the  far  south 
will  be  undisturbed  by  the  presence  of  man  ;  the  penguin  and  the  seal  will 
still  haunt  the  desolate  shores  ;  the  shriek  of  the  petrel  and  scream  of  the 
albatross  will  mingle  with  the  dash  and  roar  of  continual  storms  and  the 
crash  of  wave-beaten  ice;  the  towering  volcano  will  shoot  aloft  its  columns 
of  fire  high  into  the  gelid  air;  the  hills  of  snow  and  ice  will  grow  *nd  spread: 
frost  and  flame  will  do  their  work,  till,  in  the  wondrous  cycle  of  terrestrial 
change,  the  polar  lands  shall  again  share  in  the  abundance  and  beauty  which 
now  overspread  the  sun-gladdened  zones." 


CHAPTER   II. 

New  Zealand — Characteristics  of  this  group,  and  of  its  Inhabitants — Tonga  Islands — Pleas- 
ing Manners  of  the  People — Fondness  for  Ornament — Superstitions — Missionaries — Feoje« 
Islands— Ferocity  of  thone  Islanders — Beauty  of  the  Coral— Productions — Cannibalism- 
Costume — Murder  of  Lieutenant  Underwood,  and  Midshipman  Henry  —  Retaliation- 
Sandwich  Islands— Descriptions — Cruise  of  Captain  Hudson— Oregon  and  California — 
Gold — Philippine  Islands — Manilla — Singapore— Interesting  description  of  the  Islands  of 
the  Indian  Archipelago,  and  of  their  Inhabitants — Return. 

Br  the  last  of  March,  all  the  squadron  except  the  Peacock  had  rendez- 
voused at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  in  New  Zealand.  The  New  Zealand  group  arc 
imong  the   most  recent  acquisitions  of  Great  Britain,  and   are   beautifully 


126  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION". 

situated  The  climate  is  delightful,  and  fruits  and  flowers  abound.  It  pos- 
sesses finer  harbors,  perhaps,  than  any  other  group  in  these  seas,  which 
renders  them  favorite  places  of  resort. 

Several  towns  of  considerable  commercial  importance,  are  situated  upon 
this  group,  the  largest  of  which,  Kororarika,  contains  over  a  hundred  houses, 
and  other  buildings,  and  was  at  one  time  so  famous  for  its  wickedness  and 
degradation,  being  the  resort  of  the  most  abandoned  and  vicious,  that  it  was 
called  Blackguard  Beach.  A  much  better  state  of  things,  however,  has 
now  been  introduced  by  the  British.  The  population  is  of  a  very  mixed 
character,  numbering,  perhaps,  about  one  thousand,  and  made  up  of  runa- 
way sailors,  escaped  convicts,  foreign  residents,  etc. 

Auckland,  the  capital  of  New  Zealand,  contains  about  three  thousand  in- 
habitants, and  is  a  flourishing  town.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  river,  and 
has  many  natural  advantages  from  its  locality.  The  white  population,  in  New 
Ulster,  the  only  regular  colony,  has  been  estimated  at  twenty  thousand,  ana 
the  entire  population  of  New  Zealand  has  been  conjectured  to  be  150,000. 
Coal  abounds  on  one  of  the  islands,  together  with  the  clay  used  for  brick- 
making,  and  many  valuable  mineral  productions.  The  soil  is  generally  fer- 
tile, and  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  grain,  the  climate  being  similar  to 
that  of  the  south  of  France,  and  though  variable,  generally  healthy.  The 
emigration  of  the  lowest  and  most  vicious  persons  to  New  Zealand,  exerted 
the  most  injurious  effects  upon  the  natives,  and  previous  to  the  healthful  in- 
fluence of  missionary  labor,  and  of  wholesome  and  stringent  laws,  the  preva- 
lence of  crime  was  fearful.  In  1840,  a  colonial  organization  was  formed 
here,  by  the  British  government,  under  Captain  Hobson,  of  the  Royal  Navy. 
The  arrival  of  this  gentleman  at  New  Zealand,  led  to  the  redress  of  various 
wrongs,  particularly  with  regard  to  land  unjustly  obtained  from  the  natives. 
These  were  now  honorably  purchased  by  the  government,  divided  and  sold  at 
auction,  to  the  numerous  settlers  who  were  constantly  emigrating  hither. 

The  New  Zealanders  are  proud  and  revengeful,  but  hospitable  to  strangers. 
Like  all  savages  they  are  extremel)'-  fond  of  ornaments,  and  tattoo  themselves 
profusely,  wearing  enormous  rings  in  their  ears,  and  decorating  themselves 
with  the  most  gaudy  and  brilliantly  colored  feathers.  They  seem  somewhat 
poetical  in  their  tastes,  having  an  abundance  of  rude  lyrics,  and  are  passion- 
ately fond  of  music.  They  have  too,  a  kind  of  astronomy,  and  various 
strange  superstitions  and  legends,  relating  to  the  creation  of  the  world,  of 
which  they  seem  to  have  an  imperfect  idea.  Their  dances  and  funeral  occa- 
sions, are  alike  characterized  by  great  festivity,  in  which  the  discharge  of  fire- 
arms is  the  grand  finishing  ceremony.  Vegetation  here  is  not  remarkably 
luxuriant,  with  the  exception  of  the  native  flax,  which  promises  to  be  a  most 
important  export.  In  all  respects  New  Zealand  bids  fair  to  become  the  abode 
of  flourishing  colonies,  and  a  center  of  commerce  for  the  adjoining  islands. 

The  expedition  next  visited  the  Tonga  or  Friendly  islands.  These,  disco- 
vered by  Captain  Cook  in  1773,  are  noted  for  their  varied  scenery,  their  ani- 
mal and  vegetable  productions,  and  for  missionary  stations.  Several  of  them 
seem  to  be  formed  entirely  of  coral,  and  the  immense  reefs  which  close  them 
in  ar«  entirely  composed  of  this  gigantic  monument  of  the  skill  and  industry 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  \%J 

of  the  little  coral  builders.  An  active  volcano  is  on  one  of  these  islands,  and 
hurricanes  and  earthquakes  are  both  violent  and  destructive.  The  climate  is 
unhealthy,  from  the  sudden  changes,  and  coughs  and  consumption  frequent. 
Vegetation  on  most  of  the  coral  islands  is  richly  luxuriant;  the  bread-fruit, 
and  cocoa-nut  tree,  grow  in  perfection,  and  the  graceful  forest-trees  of  these 
tropical  regions,  are  entwined  by  a  profusion  of  beautiful  vines,  whose  many- 
hued  flowers  alike  fill  the  air  with  fragrance,  and  enhance  their  gorgeous 
magnificence. 

The  Tonga  islands  contain  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  These 
people  are  warm-hearted,  and  seem  to  enjoy  life.  In  most  of  the  South  Sea 
Islands  woman  is  degraded  to  a  brute-like  condition,  and  infanticide  and  can- 
nibalism are  common.  Here,  woman  is  treated  with  kindness,  and  connubial 
attachments,  and  fondness  for  offspring  are  strong.  The  males  perform  al1 
the  out-door  labor,  the  females  engaging  only  in  the  lighter  occupations.  The 
Tongese  have  fairer  complexions  than  the  neighboring  islanders,  frank  and 
pleasing  countenances,  and  their  women,  with  frequently  great  personal  at- 
tractions, unite  modest  and  winning  manners.  Their  fondness  for  dress  is 
extreme,  and  when  arrayed  in  their  gala  costumes,  they  paint  their  faces  in 
bars  of  red,  white,  and  yellow,  or  in  other  ways,  according  to  fancy.  Musi- 
cal in  their  tastes,  they  have  tunes  suited  to  every  employment.  The  voices 
of  the  females  are  sweet,  and  while  engaged  in  weaving  mats,  or  in  construct- 
ing reed  baskets,  they  sing  in  a  wild  and  somewhat  mournful  style. 

During  the  visit  of  the  American  squadron,  the  natives  arrayed  themselves 
in  their  martial  costume,  decorated  with  war  paint,  and  their  brilliant  mats, 
bells,  and  other  ornaments.  Captain  Wilkes  thus  describes  their  appearance, 
in  his  narrative  :  "I  was  now  surrounded  by  large  numbers  of  warriors,  all 
grotesquely  dressed,  and  ready  for  the  fight,  with  clubs,  spears,  and  muskets. 
In  addition  to  the  usual  tapa  round  their  waist,  they  had  yellow  and  straw- 
colored  ribbons,  made  of  the  pandanus  leaves,  tied  around  their  arms,  above 
the  elbow,  on  their  legs,  above  and  below  the  knees,  and  on  their  bodies ; 
some  had  them  tied  and  gathered  up  in  knots,  others,  wore  them  as  scarfs — 
some  on  the  right  shoulder,  some  on  the  left,  and  others  on  both  shoulders. 
Some  of  these  sashes  were  beautifully  white,  about  three  inches  wide,  and 
very  pliable.  Many  of  them  had  fanciful  head-dresses  ;  some  with  natural, 
and  some  with  artificial  flowers,  over  their  turbans,  (called  sala)  and  nearly 
all  had  their  faces  painted  in  the  most  grotesque  manner,  with  red,  yellow, 
and  white  stripes,  crossing  their  faces  in  all  directions.  Some  were  seen  with 
a  jet  black  face,  and  vermillion  nose,  others  with  half  the  face  painted  white. 
When  a  body  of  some  eight  hundred  of  these  dark-looking,  well-formed  war- 
riors, all  eager  for  the  fight,  and  going  to  and  fro,  to  join  their  several  com- 
panies, is  seen,  it  is  hardly  possible  to  describe  the  effect." 

Tonga,  the  principal  island,  is  considered  sacred,  and  is  the  seat  of  the 
principal  temples,  and  the  Mecca  of  the  group.  The  natives  worship  a  vari- 
ety of  gods,  some  of  whom  are  not  represented  by  any  image,  and  others  are 
celebrated  warriors  of  past  times,  whose  heroic  deeds  live  in  tradition.  Their 
oldest  god  was  Maui,  who  drew  the  islands  out  of  the  sea  with  a  hook  and 
Jinc :  with  his  two  sons  he  lives  under  the  earth,  and  when  he  turns  over 


128  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

earthquakes  are  produced.  Bulotu  is  another  famous  deitj ,  said  to  inhabit 
an  imaginary  and  far  distant  isle,  of  the  same  name.  This  interesting  per- 
sonage dwells  in  a  cave,  which  he  is  unable  to  leave  from  the  enormous  length 
of  his  tail ;  he,  however,  finds  consolation  in  his  confinement,  in  the  charm- 
ing society  of  his  numerous  wives.  The  spirits  of  the  kings  and  eminent 
chieftains  of  the  Tongese,  are  transported  after  death  to  Bulotu,  the  "  island 
of  the  blessed,"  a  spot  of  wondrous  beauty,  where  abounds  the  most  luscious 
and  tempting  fruits.  '  The  hereafter  of  the  lower  classes  proves  no  compen- 
sation for  the  greater  ills  they  have  borne  while  living:  their  lot  still  con- 
tinues, hard,  for  after  death  they  must  remain  on  earth,  and  feed  on  lizards 
and  worms,  while  those- translated  to  Bulotu,  are  allowed  to  tickle  their  pal- 
ates with  the  most  delicious  viands;  and  to  finish  the  attractions  of  their  en- 
chanting residence,  hogs,  as  in  '*  Lubber-land"  abound,  which,, in  the  estima- 
tion of  the  Tongese,  completes  their  felicity.  In  this  paradise  of  the  Tongese, 
no  fruit  or  flower  ever  withers  or  decays ;  but  if  a  flower  be  culled,  another, 
the  exact  image  of  it,  forthwith  rises  in  its  place,  and  if  a  bird  is  killed,  its 
melody  is  continued  without  the  loss  of  a  single  note,  by  another  songster, 
exactly  resembling  it,  which  at  that  instant  has  been  called  into  being.  So, 
also,  if  their  favorite  animal,  the  hog,  be  destroyed,  its  place  is  immediately 
filled  by  another  corpulent  grunter. 

Bulotu,  to  whom  the  most  costly  presents  are  made,  and  sometimes  human 
sacrifices,  is  destitute  of  good  qualities,  and  has  absolute  power,  not  only 
over  man,  but  over  the  inferior  gods  who  reside  on  the  island.  Mortals  can- 
not visit  Bulotu,  except  by  the  especial  interposition  of  the  deities,  for  to  in' 
hale  its  air  is  instant  death.  It  is  .said,  however,  that  a  party  of  natives  once 
visited  this  delightful  spot,  and  strove  to  pluck  the  fruit  and  flowers,  but  they 
elutled  their  grasp,  and  everything  appeared  to  them  as  unsubstantial  as 
shadows.  They  also  attempted  to  enter  the  houses,  but  found  them  unreal, 
and  discovered  too,  that  they  could  walk  through  the  trunks  of  the  trees, 
and  the  hills  without  meeting  with  any  resistance. 

The  Tongese  are  daring  and  expert  swimmers,  and  like  all  the  natives  of 
the  islands  of  these  seas,  are  passionately  fond  of  the  water.  The  large  ca- 
noes in  this  part  of  the  world  are  extremely  graceful  and  handsome  in  dis- 
play, particularly  the  double  war  canoes,  with  flags  and  streamers,  paddling 
along  with  great  swiftness  and  skill.  When  these  are  assembled,  as  they 
sometimes  are,  to  the  number  of  hundreds,  fully  equipped,  and  their  chiefs 
and  men  habited  in  full  war  costume — with  their  clubs,  pikes,  halberds, 
spears,  bows,  arrows,  and  slings  for  throwing  large  stones,  all  ready 
for  action — the  spectacle  is  extremely  imposing.  The  double  canoes  are 
united  by  a  deck  or  platform,  on  which  is  often  a  hut. 

The  Methodists,  in  1821,  were  the  first  to  establish  missions  in  these 
islands.  The  influence  of  the  missionaries  has  much  elevated  the  condition 
of  the  natives  ;  great  numbers  have  been  taught  the  common  branches,  and 
females  in  sewing  and  knitting.  About  one  quarter  of  the  inhabitants  pro- 
fess Christianity.  As  a  people,  the  Tongese  are  much  attached  to  their  an* 
cient  customs,  and  fierce  and  bloody  contests  have  ensued  between  the  heathen 
aud  ch*-kr,ian  parties.     While  the  squadron  were  at  the  islands,  the  differeul 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  129 

factions  were  preparing  for  battle.  Capt.  Wilkes  endeavored  to  reconcile 
their  difficulties;  but  his  friendly  efforts  were  quite  unsuccessful,  the  mission- 
aries seeming  rather  desirous  for  a  trial  of  strength  between  the  parties.  The 
"Devils"  party  triumphed,  and  after  various  conflicts  peace  ensued. 

Early  in  May  the  squadron  left  for  the  Feejee  islands,  where  they  arrived 
in  a  few  days.  This  group  lies  in  a  semi-circular  form,  the  base  of  which  is 
about  19°  30'  south  latitude,  and  number  one  hundred  and  fifty  islands,  of 
which  less  than  one  half  are  inhabited.  They  have  long  been  so  notorious 
for  their  hidden  coral  reefs,  and  for  the  ferocity  of  their  inhabitants,  that  few 
vessels  seldom  dared  to  approach,  except  now  and  then,  an  American  or  an 
English  whaler :  and  these  ventured  with  the  extremest  caution,  as  it  was  rare 
that  any  left  their  inhospitable  shores  without  losing  some  of  their  crews,  or 
missing  a  part  of  their  stores.  The  inhabitants  mostly  retain  their  original 
characteristics,  excepting  where  brought  under  the  influence  of  the  missiona- 
ries, who  with  the  assistance  of  a  number  of  converted  Tongese  emigrants, 
have  produced  a  most  happy  influence  upon  the  inhabitants  of  Lakemba. 

The  coral  reefs  surrounding  these  islands,  are  of  rarest  beauty.  The 
branching  coral,  partly  sunk  beneath  the  surf,  presents  the  most  brilliant  hues 
of  pink,  purple,  green,  and  yellow,  tinting  the  waves  with  delicate  reflections. 
The  soil,  of  this  cluster,  is  luxuriantly  fertile,  and  a  soft,  delicious  atmo- 
sphere rests  over  it,  even  in  the  rainy  season,  when  in  other  lands  the  sky  is 
dark  and  cloudy:  in  the  hottest  of  weather,  the  inhabitants  are  refreshed  by 
exhilarating  sea-breezes.  The  air  is  loaded  with  the  fragrance  of  innumer- 
able aromatic  shrubs,  and  the  thousand  gorgeous  blossoms  of  a  tropical  clime. 
But  these  blessings  are  mingled  with  evils,  and  as  in  the  Tonga  islands, 
rheumatism,  coughs,  and  lung  diseases  are  prevalent. 

Three  different  kinds  of  cocoa,  and  nine  of  bread-fruit  trees,  grow  here, 
and  furnish  the  natives  with  food,  clothing,  materials  for  their  hats,  cooking- 
utensils,  and  implements  of  war.  A  singular  method  of  preparing  their 
bread-fruit  is  practiced.  The  rind  is  taken  off,  then  jars  filled  with  it,  and 
placed  in  small  holes  in  the  ground,  lined  with  banana  ;  these  are  thatched 
over,  and  in  a  short  time  the  fruit  ferments,  and  forms  a  cheese-like  substance, 
very  pleasant  and  nutritious  to  the  taste.  Bamboo  is  applied  to  a  variety  of 
purposes, — for  building  huts,  for  torches,  drinking  vessels,  etc.,  and  also  foi 
candlesticks,  while  prepared  leaves  of  the  cocoa  serve  for  candles.  Out  of 
the  toa  or  "  iron  wood"  are  made  spears,  bowls,  and  various  other  domestic 
articles.  In  short,  most  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  productions  are  ren- 
dered available,  by  the  ingenuity  of  the  natives,  and  these  comprise  all  the 
ordinary  productions  of  the  tropical  climes.  The  sea  is  also  fruitful,  fish  and 
turtle  abounding.  These  animals  are  here,  as  elsewhere,  considered  a  great 
delicacy,  while  their  shells  are  a  valuable  article  of  commerce.  The  turtles- 
are  caught  in  nets,  and  confined  in  pens,  by  the  water-side,  to  fatten  for  use. 
A  green  worm,  found  in  the  salt  water,  called  balolo,  is  esteemed  a  great 
luxury.  The  "  biche  de  mer,"  or  sea-slug,  is  yet  more  prized  and  eagerly 
sought  for.  In  its  movements  it  resembles  a  caterpillar,  and  is  from  two  to 
nine  inches  in  length,  and  of  various  colors.  The  natives  find  them  as  pearls 
are  found,  by  diving  down  deep  among  the  fissures  of  the  coral  rocks,  or  else 
9 


130  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

they  fish  for  them  by  torch  or  moonlight.  They  are  prepared  for  market,  by 
first  opening,  cleaning,  and  then  drying  :  immense  quantities  are  sold  to  the 
Chinese,  by  whom  they  are  highly  esteemed. 

Woman  here  is  exceedingly  degraded,  being  regarded  as  scarce  above  a 
beast  of  burden.  Like  the  female  of  the  North  American  Indian,  she  may 
often  be  seen  bending  beneath  the  weight  of  a  heavy  burden,  under  a  burn- 
ing sun,  while  her  lord  and  master  saunters  along  leisurely  by  her  side, 
without  offering  the  slightest  assistance. 

The  countenances  of  the  Feejeeans  are  as  repulsive  as  their  characters  are 
detestable.  The  Feejeean  is  abject  and  fawning  to  superiors,  haughty  and 
tyrannical  to  inferiors,  and  treacherous  and  vindictive  to  all.  To  his  guest 
he  will  seem  friendly  and  hospitable,  but  the  moment  he  leaves  his  roof,  his 
nature  appears  instantly  to  change,  and  he  does  not  hesitate,  for  the  slightest 
inducement,  to  rob  or  even  to  murder  him.  Deformed  children,  lazy  persons, 
and  old  people,  are  put  to  death  by  their  relations,  to  avoid  the  trouble  of 
their. support ;  and  worse  than  all,  these  people  are  ferocious  cannibals,  and 
delight  in  feeding  upon  the  corpses  of  those  taken  by  stratagem  or  in  war. 
Females,  when  they  have  strayed  away  from  home,  are  often  murdered  for 
food,  their  flesh  being  more  esteemed  than  that  of  the  men  ;  the  choice  parts 
are  the  fleshy  part  of  the  arm  and  thigh,  which  are  always  preferred.  They 
have  earthen  pots  expressly  to  cook  their  horrid  repast,  and  it  is  esteemed 
a  peculiar  luxury,  so  great  that  their  women  are  forbidden  to  partake  of  it. 
Wars  between  the  different  tribes  are  very  frequent,  and  atrocious  murders 
of  every  day  occurrence.  In  short  they  are  thoroughly  brutalized  and  de- 
graded, the  slaves  of  their  own  miserable  passions,  excepting  in  the  extreme 
eastern  group,  where  missionary  labor  is  producing  its  appropriate  results. 

The  Feejee  islands  are  supposed  to  contain  about  150,000  inhabitants, 
which  are  divided  into  five  classes — kings,  chiefs,  warriors,  land-holders,  and 
the  kaisis,  or  common  people,  and  slaves,  the  latter  being  much  the  largest 
class.  The  great  influence  of  the  priests,  as  in  some  others  that  claim  to  be 
civilized,  tends  to  keep  the  lower  classes,  if  possible,  in  a  more  abject  state 
of  subjection.  The  turban  or  sala,  of  the  finest  gauze-like  material,  is  a 
distinguishing  mark  of  persons  of  quality.  It  is  encircled  by  a  wreath  of 
flowers,  and  adorned  within  by  brilliant  feathers.  The  chiefs  wear  necklaces 
of  bright  shells  or  stones,  and  of  the  teeth  of  human  victims.  Combs  of 
bone  or  reed,  are  worn  by  all  classes,  and  paint  profusely  used  on  the  hair 
and  face.  An  elastic  band,  neatly  braided  and  dyed  is  the  sole  garment  of 
the  females  :  with  maidens  it  is  only  three  inches  wide  ;  but  married  women 
have  it  broader.  Tattooing  is  performed  only  on  the  females,  and  is  con- 
sidered essential  to  their  safe  passage  to  the  other  world. 

Animal  food  and  fish,  is  the  ordinary  diet  of  the  chiefs,  and  vegetables  of 
the  common  people.  Several  agreeable  preparations  are  made  of  yams, 
cocoa-nuts,  bread-fruit,  and  bananas,  the  cooking  being  mostly  by  steam. 
Everything  at  the  tables  of  the  chiefs  is  conducted  with  as  much  precision, 
according  to  their  ideas  of  etiquette,  as  the  several  courses  at  a  fashionable 
American  or  European  Hotel.     Their  food  is  served  up   in   fresh  banana 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  131 

leaves,  and  when  a  new  dish  is  brought  on,  the  mats  and  vessels  previously 
used,  are  carefully  removed.     The  principal  meal  is  at  sunset. 

The  elite  pass  their  time  in  visiting,  or  receiving  calls,  or  in  attending  to 
their  toilette.  Dancing  is  a  favorite  amusement  with  all  classes,  and  care- 
fully taught  by  expert  masters  in  the  art.  It  consists  in  ugl}7  wri things  and 
contortions  of  the  body,  accompanied  by  the  clapping  of  hands,  monotonous 
chanting,  and  the  beating  of  a  drum.  Polygamy  is  common,  and  often  the 
chiefs  possess  from  one  to  two  hundred  wives,  and  when  one  of  them  dies, 
some  of  them  are  strangled  and  buried  with  him.  Ndengi,  the  principal 
god,  is  represented  in  the  form  of  a  huge  serpent,  and  his  power  over  the 
inferior  deities  is  absolute.  After  death,  the  Feejeeans  believe  their  spirits  go 
to  Ndengi  to  be  judged.  Some  he  allots  to  devils  who  roast  and  eat 
them,  and  others,  after  roaming  about  in  far  distant  islands  are  annihilated. 
Human  sacrifices  to  their  gods  are  common,  and  they  have  temples  or  spirit 
houses,  regarded  as  sacred,  where  their  offerings  to  their  deities  are  de- 
posited. With  all  their  wild  superstitions,  is  mingled  the  theory  of  future 
rewards  and  punishments,  and  of  a  second  death. 

Soon  after  the  arrival  of  the  squadron  at  the  Feejee  group,  a  noted  chief 
named  Vendovi,  who  had  heen  mainly  instrumental  in  the  murder  of  some 
American  seamen  awhile  previous,  was  captured  and  taken  on  board  of  one  of 
the  vessels.  This  so  alarmed  the  natives,  that  great  respect  was  shown  Cap- 
tain Wilkes,  which  for  awhile  continued  unimpared.  At  length  one  of  their 
boats  having  been  thrown  by  a  storm  on  the  reefs  in  Sualib  Bay,  was  dis- 
covered by  parties  of  the  natives  trolling  on  the  beach,  who  thereupon 
rushed  forward,  and  made  a  prize  ot  io  and  its  contents.  Restitution  was  de- 
manded, and  the  vessel  reluctantly  restored,  but  not  its  contents  ;  and  the 
natives  behaved  so  treacherously,  and  prevaricated  so  grossly  in  the  matter, 
that  Captain  Wilkes  resolved  to  punish  them.  A  party  of  sailors  and 
marines,  under  Captain  Hudson,  landed  at  the  town  of  Tye  on  Sualib  Bay, 
the  residence  of  those  engaged  in  the  robbery,  attacked,  and  drove  the  natives 
from  the  place,  and  burnt  about  sixty  of  their  houses. 

This  punishment  prevented  farther  injury  from  the  natives  in  that  vicinity, 
but  subsequently  a  tragical  affair  occurred  at  the  island  of  Malolo.  On  the 
24th  of  July,  Lieutenant  Underwood  went  ashore  in  th,e  first  cutter  of  the 
Vincennes,  but  unfortunately  had  neglected  to  arm  himself  sufficiently 
against  the  attacks  of  the  treacherous  islanders.  The  savages  exhibiting 
symptoms  of  hostility,  a  hostage  was  seized  and  carried  on  board  the  cutter, 
under  the  impression  that  this  would  prove  a  guarantee  for  the  safety  of  tht 
officers  while  they  remained  ashore,  but  unluckily  the  savage  succeeded  in 
springing  overboard,  and  gaining  the  land.  This  seemed  to  be  the  signal  for 
a  general  attack  upon  Lieut.  Underwood  and  his  party,  who  thereupon  were 
surrounded,  and  finally  attacked  by  the  savages.  The  Americans  endeavored 
to  retreat  to  their  boat ;  but  this  was  impossible.  All  hope  of  escape  was 
cut  off  by  overwhelming  numbers,  and  a  short  and  gallant  resistance  ensued, 
in  which  Lieut.  Underwood  and  Midshipman  Henry  were  both  knocked  down 
by  the  clubs  of  the  natives  and  killed,  while  others  of  the  party  were  severely 


132  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDiYIetf. 

wounded.  Two  officers,  Lieutenants  Emmons  and  Alden,  who  witnessed  th? 
affray  from  the  cutter,  hastened  with  some  of  their  men  to  the  rescue, 
but  only  arrived  in  time  to  regain  the  lifeless  bodies  of  their  murdered 
companions. 

Having  buried  the  remains  of  the  unfortunate  officers  on  one  of  the  lonely 
islands  of  that  vicinity,  our  countrymen  proceeded  to  inflict  summary  punish- 
ment upon  the  murderers.  Stationing  boats  at  intervals  around  Malolo,  to 
frustrate  any  attempts  at  escape,  Captain  Wilkes,  and  Lieutenant  Ringgold, 
each  landed  at  the  head  of  a  strong  party.  A  fierce  encounter  ensued,  in 
which  the  only  two  towns  on  the  island,  and  the  plantations  of  the  inhabi- 
tants were  destroyed.  The  latter  stoutly  resisted,  retreating  to  their  forti- 
fications and  discharging  a  variety  of  missiles,  but  the  assailants  pressing 
forward,  set  fire  to  their  bamboo  works,  and  drove  them  from  every  part, 
with  a  total  loss  of  about  sixty  killed  and  many  wounded,  while  our  people 
received  no  other  injury  than  the  slightly  wounding  of  a  seaman. 

The  natives  thoroughl}7"  intimidated,  most  abjectly  sued  for  pardon,  and 
ceased  further  to  molest  the  Americans,  who  had  given  them  a  lesson,  the 
beneficial  effects  of  which  were  likely  to  endure  for  years.  In  August  the 
squadron  departed  for  the  Sandwich  islands,  but  ere  they  left  the  Feejee 
group,  regulations  in  regard  to  vessels  frequenting  the  islands  for  traffic,  and 
other  purposes,  were  adopted  and  signed  by  the  principal  kings. 

The  Sandwich  Islands  have  long-  been  celebrated  for  the  richness  and 
variety  of  their  productions,  and  for  their  unsurpassed  climate  and  scenery, 
but  now,  with  the  acquisition  of  California  by  the  United  States,  their  impor- 
tance is  doubly  enhanced,  as  they  occupy  a  central  position  between  the  great 
marts  of  commerce  east  and  west.  All  the  immense  trade  which  must  neces- 
sarily be  carried  on  between  Canton  and  San  Francisco,  will  of  course  pass 
this  group,  thus  rendering  them,  whatever  their  political  destiny  may  be,  the 
grand  emporium  of  commerce  in  the  Pacific  between  the  old  and  new 
worlds.  The  principal  members  of  the  group  are  Hawaii,  Maui,  Kahoolawe, 
Lanai,  Molokai,  Oahu,  Kauai  and  Niihau  ;  the  remaining  three,  Molokini, 
Lehua  and  Kaula,  are  but  rocky  barren  islets.  They  stretch  along  for  a  dis- 
tance of  about  three  hundred  miles,  and  Hawaii,  (formerly  known  as 
Owhyhee)  the  southernmost  of  the  group,  has  an  area  nearly  equal  to  the  State 
of  Connecticut,  and  twice  that  of  all  the  others  combined.  Oahu,  how- 
ever, is  politically  and  commercially  the  most  important  island  of  the  group. 
It  is  about  forty-six  miles  long,  twenty-three  broad,  and,  like  Hawii,  rises 
from  the  ocean  to  an  elevated  plain  in  the  interior,  which  is  dotted  with  nume- 
rous mountain  peaks  which  rise  to  an  elevation  of  three  or  four  thousand  feet 

This  cluster  were  discovered  by  Captain  Cook  in  the  year  1778,  and  named 
in  honor  of  the  Earl  of  Sandwich,  then  first  Lord  of  the  Admiralty,  and  it 
was  here  that  Cook  came  to  his  untimely  end,  being  murdered  by  the  natives 
in  February  of  the  ensuing  year.  Like  the  Tonga  and  Feejee  Islands,  they 
are  almost  entirely  encircled  by  coral  reefs,  and  just  inside  of  the  breakers 
that  dash  over  the  low  sandy  beach,  or  spend  their  fury  against  the  tall  basal- 
tic cliffs,  or  the  piles  of  lava  on  the  shore.  Vegetation,  rich  with  the  luxu- 
riance of  tropical  climes,  indicates  the  abundance  with  which  the  soil  of  these 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  133 

delightful  islands  is  teeming.  Evidences  of  the  volcanic  character  of  this 
group  everywhere  abound.  Enormous  conical  craters,  and  vast  piles  of 
scoriaceous  lava  indicate,  that  they  were  once  the  seat  of  active  volcanoes, 
whose  lurid  columns  of  smoke  and  flame  were  the  beacon  light  to  the  mariner 
on  the  far  ocean.  But  these  volcanoes  have  been  nearly  extinct  for  years. 
The  only  two  now  active  are  those  of  Kilanea  on  the  island  of  Hawaii,  and 
that  of  Manaw  Loa.  The  volcano  of  Kilanea  is  very  peculiar.  Unlike  other 
volcanoes,  it  does  not  send  up  jets  of  flame  and  smoke,  or  eruptions  of  molten 
lava,  but  has  a  vast  depression  in  its  center,  in  which,  as  in  a  huge  cauldron, 
is  a  hot  seething  mass  of  boiling  lava,  whose  angry  waves  are  forever  surging 
and  hissing,  with  a  terrific  sound.  This,  the  natives  believed,  in  olden  time, 
was  the  abode  of  Pele,  the  principal  goddess  of  the  Hawaiians,  and  they  were 
wont  to  associate  everything  fearful  or  sublime  with  all  that  they  imagined 
of  their  potent  deity.  The  crater  is  of  an  oval  shape,  five  miles  long,  and  two 
and  a  half  miles  wide,  and  is  surrounded  with  vast  heaps  of  molten  lava,  and 
bundles  of  capillary  glass,  which  the  natives  call  "Pele's  hair."  The  hot 
steam  which  frequently  escapes  from  the  cracks  and  fissures,  serves  to  cook 
the  meals  of  the  natives,  who  resort  here  for  the  purpose.  There  is  a  black 
mass  of  hard  lava,  about  seven  hundred  feet  below  the  outer  edge  opening, 
from  which  one  may  descend  to  the  edge  of  the  burning  pool,  but  this  feat  is 
exceedingly  dangerous,  as  the  thin  crust  of  lava  sometimes  gives  way  be- 
neath the  weight  of  a  footstep,  but  the  descent  from  the  outer  bank  to  the 
ledges  of  black  lava  has  been  frequently  accomplished.  Over  the  molten 
mass  hangs  suspended  a  thick  cloud  of  vapor,  looking  like  fire  by  night,  and 
like  mist  by  day.  The  surface  of  this  fiery  lake  presents  very  singular  appear- 
ances. Sometimes  huge  cones,  resembling  volcanoes,  will  shoot  up,  sending 
forth  flame  and  smoke  and  burning  stones,  then  exploding,  will  suddenly  sink 
into  the  boiling  crater,  and  disappear  in  the  hot  gulf  of  boiling  fire,  accom- 
panied by  the  deepest  and  most  awful  roaring. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  Sandwich  Islands  contain  about  two  hundred  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  but  their  various  wars,  the  prevalence  of  disease,  and  other 
causes,  have  combined  to  reduce  the  population  rapidly,  and  it  is  apparent 
that  the  natives  are  generally  and  surely  diminishing.  It  is  supposed  that 
about  one-half  of  the  native  population  reside  on  Hawaii,  and  the  whole 
amount  numbered  not  over  eighty  thousand,  showing  a  surprising  decrease. 
The  tide  of  emigration  is  rapidly  pouring  in,  of  the  most  heterogeneous  de- 
scription, consisting  of  Dutch,  French,  Chinese,  English,  Germans,  Yankees, 
Mexicans,  and  California  Indians,  each  exhibiting  their  peculiar  national 
characteristics,  and  presenting  a  grotesque  and  motley  assemblage  of  men 
and  manners. 

The  foreign  residents  usually  continue  or  adopt  European  fashions,  but  the 
dress  of  the  natives  presents  an  incongruous  mixture  of  the  habiliments  of 
civilized  nations,  and  their  own  primitive  attire,  of  which  the  mdso,  a  shirt 
fastened  at  the  waist,  and  of  different  lengths,  according  to  the  taste  or 
circumstances  of  the  wearer,  is  the  most  generally  worn,  alike  by  males  and 
females.  On  holidays,  some  of  the  native  leaders  of  the  ton  indulge  in  the 
luxury  of  pantaloons,  and  at  rare  intervals,  in  a  cotton  shirt,  if  such  an  arti- 


134  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION". 

cle  is  found  among  their  possessions  ;  while  the  females  wear  long  gowns, 
like  the  morning  dresses  of  French  and  American  ladies.  Ornaments,  beau- 
tifully carved,  of  ivory  and  bone,  and  necklaces  of  the  bright  ruby  fruit  of 
the  pandanus,  or  woven  of  hair,  ornament  the  necks  of  the  women.  The 
wreaths  of  flowers  with  which  they  used  to  decorate  their  heads  are  now 
almost  entirely  laid  aside,  owing  to  the  influence  of  the  missionaries,  but  the 
chiefs  wear  a  kind  of  tiara  of  net- work,  decorated  with  brilliant  feathers,  and 
the  females  of  high  rank,  a  pretty  coronet,  feathers  and  flowers  intermingled. 
The  queen  usually  appears  in  public,  with  a  superb  scarlet  crape  shawl  over 
a  silk  or  satin  dress,  and  sometimes  she  displays  a  gorgeous  robe,  beautifully 
decorated  with  flowers.  The  king  is  generally  clothed  in  European  attire,  a 
blue  broadcloth  coat  and  white  vest  and  pantaloons,  but  his  state  robes  are 
made  of  the  material  called  ropce,  gorgeously  trimmed  with  scarlet  or  yellow 
feathers. 

The  natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  resemble  ir  some  respects  that  of  the 
Samoan  group,  their  complexions  being  of  a  dark  olive,  and  their  forms  fine 
and  well  developed.  They  have  dark,  expressive  eyes,  and  dark  hair,  and 
among  the  chiefs  and  higher  classes,  a  graceful  easy  address,  and  stately 
forms  and  gait.  The  Hawaiians  are  naturally  indolent  and  selfish,  and 
almost  destitute  of  parental  affection,  as  infanticide  and  kindred  crimes  are 
common,  and  excite  but  little  horror.  They  are,  however,  tolerably 
intelligent,  honest,  and  hospitable,  and  quite  courageous. 

The  influence  of  the  missionaries  has  been  beneficial  among  these  people, 
enabling  them  to  overcome  their  natural  indolence,  and  teaching  them  thrift 
and  industry,  leading  them  to  respect  the  rights  of  property,  and  even  when 
their  labors  have  been  most  extensive,  the  excesses  in  which  they  formerly 
indulged,  and  the  pernicious  habits  common  among  them,  have  been  aban- 
doned. 

Swimming,  an  art  in  which  they  particularly  excel,  is  the  favorite  amuse- 
ment of  both  sexes.  They  thus  spend  hours  together,  sporting  in  the  most 
furious  surf,  provided  with  a  surf-cord  of  about  eighteen  inches  in  width,  and 
nine  feet  in  length.  Spreading  himself  lengthwise  upon  this,  the  bather  dex- 
trously  avoids  the  billows  rolling  in,  sometimes  bounding  entirely  over  the 
waves,  or  diving  through  them,  with  the  rapidity  of  a  fish,  and  riding  tri- 
umphant at  last  on  the  topmost  crest  of  the  huge  breakers,  half-a-mileor  more 
from  shore. 

Riding  on  horseback,  quoits,  and  a  game  called  malkee,  consisting  of  throw- 
ing stones  in  narrow  trenches,  sometimes  a  mile  in  length,  are  also  favorite 
pastimes.  Gaming,  in  various  forms,  is  prevalent  among  those  not  under 
missionary  influence.  One  of  the  old  games  was  hoolua,  or  sliding  down  hill, 
but  instead  of  being  on  snow  or  ice,  it  was  on  a  layer  of  smooth  grass,  placed 
along  a  broad  furrow,  down  a  steep  declivity,  extending  some  distance  beyond 
on  level  ground  ;  then  provided  with  light  hand-sleds,  the  islander  would 
coast  up  and  down,  with  as  much  delight  as  the  Russian  on  his  hill  of  ice. 

Their  chief  articles  of  food  are  fish  and  taro,  though  pork  and  poultry,  with 
various  kinds  of  fruit  and  vegetables,  are  eaten  among  the  natives  of  these 
islands  as  among  those  of  adjacent  groups  :  their  food  was  baked  in  a  hole  ia 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  135 

the  earth  lined  with  heated  stones.  Poe,  an  article  of  which  they  are  extra- 
vagantly fond,  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner :  The  root,  called  taro,  of 
which  it  is  made,  is  baked  until  it  becomes  dry,  and  then  mixed  with  water, 
and  beaten  until  it  is  of  the  thickness  of  paste  ;  then,  after  being  set  aside  fol 
twenty-four  hours,  it  is  fit  for  use,  having  acquired  a  slightly  acid  taste. 
The  natives  are  extremely  fond  of  smoking,  enjoying  the  practice  as  much 
through  the  night  as  in  the  day,  and  never  going  abroad,  even  the  smallest 
distance,  without  taking  pipes  and  tobacco.  Great  lamentation  ensues  when 
a  person  dies,  particularly  if  the  deceased  is  of  much  note.  The  wailing, 
consisting  of  dismal  shrieks  and  groans,  is  kept  up  for  days  and  nights  ;  and 
for  a  long  time  after,  when  the  mourners  meet,  they  rub  their  noses  together, 
and  clasping  hands,  utter  low  moaning  sounds.  Much  has  been  said  in  regard 
to  missionary  influence  in  these  islands,  but  it  is  generally  admitted  that  the 
strictness  of  these  spiritual  teachers  in  prohibiting  everything  in  the  shape 
of  amusement,  show,  or  ornament,  to  a  people,  to  whom,  from  the  habits  of 
a  lifetime,  they  had  become  a  necessity,  were  disastrous,  and  it  may  proba- 
bly be  the  reason  why  the  gorgeous  pageants  and  imposing  ceremonies  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church  have  produced  so  much  impression  among  the 
natives  wherever  the  worship  of  that  church  has  been  introduced. 

When  the  American  Board  of  Missions  commenced  its  operations  here,  the 
entire  population  seemed  given  over  to  every  species  of  excess,  under  the  lax 
government  of  Kamamena  II,  and  their  exertions  in  the  seemingly  almost 
hopeless  undertaking,  were  most  noble  and  praiseworthy.  Though  the  labors 
of  the  missionaries  seemed  for  a  time  to  be  productive  of  few  beneficial  results, 
yet,  in  1822,  they  established  a  printing-press,  and  commenced  publishing 
tracts,  and  in  1823,  the  government  publicly  demanded  the  observance  of 
the  Sabbath.  After  the  youthful  Kamameha  III  succeeded  to  the  throne,  the 
government  was  administered  by  Kaahumanu,  one  of  the  wives  of  his  father, 
and  during  her  regency  of  eight  years,  many  important  reforms  were  effected, 
through  missionary  agency.  A  written  constitution  was,  in  October,  1840, 
adopted  by  the  kings  and  chiefs,  and  publicly  promulgated. 

The  government  of  the  islands  is  a  limited  monarchy,  and  a  prime  ministei 
is  associated  with  the  king  in  his  administration.  Representatives  are  elected 
by  the  people,  to  a  national  parliament,  and  a  certain  number  of  chiefs  form 
a  council,  without  whose  consent  no  laws  can  be  enacted.  Four  governors, 
of  four  districts,  are  appointed  by  the  king,  and  they  have  a  supreme  court, 
consisting  of  six  judges,  two  of  whom  are  appointed  by  the  king  and  pre- 
mier, and  four  by  the  representatives.  Under  the  new  code  of  laws,  adopted 
after  the  constitution,  strangers  and  their  rights  were  protected,  as  well  as 
natives  and  residents.  An  active  and  efficient  police  admirably  sustain  these 
laws.  At  Honolulu,  when  vessels  are  landing  their  cargoes,  constables  are 
stationed  along  the  wharves  to  preserve  order,  so  that  property  may  be  con- 
sidered as  safe  here  as  at  any  European  or  American  port. 

Located  all  over  the  island,  are  public  and  charity  schools,  for  the  instruc- 
tion of  children  of  the  lower  classes,  and  at  Lahainaluna,  and  Wailuku,  are 
high  schools  for  the  children  of  the  higher  classes.  One-third  of  the  native 
population  are  members  of  the  church,  and  in  the  group  are  twenty  churches. 


136  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

Two  ably-conducted  weekly  newspapers  are  published,  and  the  members 
of  the  legislature,  and  other  officers  of  high  standing,  are  well  educated,  and 
seem  well  to  understand  the  affairs  of  other  countries,  as  well  as  the  govern- 
ment of  their  own. 

Rats,  mice,  and  dogs,  are  the  principal  animals.  In  olden  time,  among 
the  Hawaiian s,  they  were  considered  a  luxury,  and  baked  in  pies.  Small 
droves  of  cattle,  partially  tamed,  are  found  among  the  mountains,  and  were 
formerly  hunted  with  the  lasso,  by  the  Spaniards  from  California. 

Honolulu,  the  capital  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Routhern  coast  of  Oahu,  on  a  broad,  open  plain,  sloping  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  contains  about  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  The  harbor  of  this  fine  town, 
is  inclosed  by  a  high  reef  of  coral,  in  which  is  an  opening  sufficient  for  sixty 
or  seventy  vessels  of  a  hundred  tons.  Main,  the  principal  street,  is  finely 
laid  out,  and  filled  with  neat,  tasteful  houses,  surrounded  with  beautiful 
shrubbery,  and  gardens  well  stocked  with  fruit,  flowers,  and  vegetables. 

On  Punch  Bowl  Hill,  the  site  of  an  extinct  crater,  is  a  rude  fortification, 
and  on  Diamond  Hill  is  a  battery,  overlooking  the  town.  In  Honolulu,  are 
three  churches  of  considerable  size ;  one  built  by  the  contributions  of  the  na- 
tives, is  constructed  of  coral  stone,  hewn  out  in  blocks,  and  has  a  tall  spire, 
like  those  of  many  American  churches  ;  another  is  a  thatched  building,  and 
the  last,  is  built  of  plastered  adobes,  or  sun-dried  brick.  In  the  town,  also, 
is  an  institute  for  scientific  research,  a  museum,  a  large  library,  a  charity  and 
orphan  school,  together  with  several  neat  private  and  public  school-houses. 

Hilo,  Wailuku,  and  Kailua,  are  all  delightfully  situated,  and  have  fine  na- 
tive villages  near  them ;  Wailuku  is  noted  for  its  female  seminary,  as  also  is 
Lahainaluna.  At  Lahaina  is  the  king's  palace,  built  of  coral;  also,  a  for- 
tress, and  the  royal  storehouses.  Hilo  has  the  largest  church  on  the  island, 
a  fine  building,  which  will  hold  several  thousand  persons.  Waimea  contains 
about  four  hundred  houses,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  valley,  abounding  in 
every  variety  of  tropical  fruits.  A  fine  river  turns  several  mills,  and  a  large 
fortress  is  also  located  there.  The  best  houses  are  built  of  blocks  of  coral 
and  lava,  with  glazed  windows,  and  nicely  carved,  or  thatched  roofs,  but  the 
natives  prefer  their  own  grass  houses,  which  are  ingeniously  constructed. 

The  Vincennes  came  to  anchor  in  the  roads  of  Honolulu  on  the  24th 
of  September,  1840,  where,  on  the  30th,  she  was  joined  by  the  Peacock. 
After  the  departure  of  the  two  larger  vessels  from  the  Feejee  group,  the  Por- 
poise and  tender  were  engaged  in  watching  the  conduct  of  the  natives  to- 
ward the  missionaries  at  Somu-somu,  and  in  examining  Natava  bay.  After 
many  delays,  during  which  the  crew  were  again  reshipped,  the  original  term 
of  their  engagement  having  expired,  the  squadron  set  sail  for  the  American 
coast,  on  the  5th  of  April,  1841,  and  on  the  second  of  May  anchored  in  the 
Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca — which  separates  Vancouver's  island  from  Oregon — 
with  the  exception  of  the  Peacock  and  Flying-Fish,  which,  on  the  2d  of  De- 
cember set  sail  to  survey  part  of  the  Samoan  group,  and  several  adjacent 
islands.  The  first  land  encountered  by  them  on  their  way  to  the  south,  was 
Washington,  or  New  York  island,  a  little  island,  at  about  160  degrees  west. 
This  islet  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  uninhabited,  and  covered  with  the  most 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  137 

beautiful  vegetation  of  the  tropical  regions,  but  owing  to  the  heavy  surf,  the 
American  vessels  were  unable  to  send  a  boat  ashore  to  examine  it.  Passing 
Jarvis,  Enderbury,  and  Nukonono  islands,  they  discovered  a  new  island,  on 
the  29th  of  January,  which  they  called  Bowditch  island. 

The  three  islands,  Fakaafo,  Oatafu,  and  Nukonono,  constitute  the  group, 
known  as  the  Union  Group.  The  natives  of  these  islands  resemble  those  of 
the  Samoan  group,  in  language  and  appearance  ;  they  are  mostly  light-colored, 
and  pleasing  in  their  appearance,  although  they  are  in  the  habit  of  tattooing 
their  faces  and  bodies  extensively.  They  seem  to  be  entirely  ignorant  of  the 
use  of  fire,  and  never  cook  their  food,  eating  fish  in  a  raw  state,  and  the  fruit 
of  the  cocoa-nut  and  pandanus. 

After  leaving  these  islands,  Captain  Hudson  next  proceeded  to  the  Samoan 
group,  and  anchored  in  the  harbor  of  Apia.  The  chief  object  of  this  second 
visit  was  business  relative  to  the  murder  of  an  American  seaman  belonging  to 
a  whaling  vessel.  The  murderer  had  been  protected  by  one  of  the  chiefs, 
who  refused  to  surrender  him.  After  various  ineffectual  attempts  to  capture 
this  chief,  and  detain  him  until  the  murderer  was  secured,  Captain  Hudson 
thought  it  best  to  inflict  summary  punishment,  to  protect  vessels  for  the  future. 
Accordingly,  on  the  25th  of  February,  three  towns  on  the  island  were  re- 
duced to  ashes,  without  any  skirmish  with  the  natives. 

From  Apia,  he  turned  his  course  toward  Mataatu,  and  from  this  place  both 
vessels  proceeded  to  Ellices  island,  containing  about  one  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  interesting  from  its  varied  productions,  and  fine  coast.  Leaving  this  place, 
Captain  Hudson  reached  Drummond's  island  on  the  3d  of  April — this  island, 
with  fifteen  others,  constituting  the  Tarawan,  Kingsmill,  or  Gilbert  group. 
They  are  densely  populated,  containing  about  sixty  thousand  inhabitants,  of 
which  ten  thousand  are  on  Drummond's  island  alone.  The  younger  females 
are  distinguished  for  great  personal  beauty,  both  of  form  and  feature,  and 
resemble  the  Samoans.  The  inhabitants  of  Pitt's  island,  to  the  north,  are 
remarkably  corpulent  and  unwieldy,  and  usually  very  kind  and  hospitable  to 
strangers.  Swimming  in  the  surf,  dancing,  and  playing  foot-balls,  are  favor- 
ite amusements,  with  both  sexes.  The  dress  of  the  females  is  simple,  con- 
sisting of  a  single  garment,  beautifully  braided  of  strips  of  cocoa-nut  leaves  ; 
both  men  and  women  are  passionately  fond  of  ornaments. 

Arriving  at  Cape  Disappointment,  on  the  coast  of  Oregon,  Captain  Hudsoi 
attempted  to  enter  Columbia  river  the  following  day,  when  his  vessel,  th» 
Peacock,  struck  on  a  bar,  and  in  a  few  hours  was  a  total  wrec«..  The  ofhters, 
crew,  and  papers  were  with  difficulty  rescued,  and  landed  at  Astoria.  The 
Flying-Fish  entered  in  safety.  In  August,  Capt.  Wilkes  joined  Capt.  Hud- 
son, having  finished  his  survey  in  northern  Oregon.  The  Vincennes  pro- 
ceeded down  to  San  Francisco,  to  survey  the  Sacramento  river,  while  the 
officers  and  crew  of  the  Peacock  were  transferred  to  an  American  brig,  pur- 
chased for  the  occasion.  The  other  vessels  of  the  squadron  proceeded  south- 
ward, and  anchored  on  October  19th,  in  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  where  the 
Vincennes  already  lay. 

The  vessels  of  the  expedition  having  all  arrived  at  San  Francisco,  sailed 
on  the  first  of  November  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  to  prepare  for  their  return 


138  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

to  the  United  States;  on  the  18th  they  anchored  again  in  the  harbor  of  Hon- 
olulu. On  the  27th,  the  Vincennes  and  tender  took  their  final  departure  from 
that  port,  sailing  for  Manilla,  which  they  reached  Jan.  13th,  1842,  while  the 
Oreo-on  and  Porpoise  proceeded  through  the  China  sea  to  Singapore. 

Manilla,  the  capital  of  the  Philippine  islands,  is  in  a  circular  form,  on  the 
east  side  of  Manilla  bay,  and  presents  all  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  a 
Spanish  town.  The  houses,  built  of  volcanic  tufa,  with  flat  roofs,  and  balus- 
trades, and  projecting  balconies,  are  seldom  very  high,  on  account  of  earth- 
quakes. Instead  of  glass,  thin  pieces  of  semi-transparent  shell  are  us,ed. 
The  religion  is  Roman  Catholic,  and  churches,  and  monasteries,  nunneries, 
etc.,  are  found  in  abundance.  A  missionary  college,  orphan  asylums,  and 
other  charitable  institutions,  are  in  operation,  and  the  cathedral,  and  arch- 
bishop's palace,  are  among  the  principal  public  buildings.  Cigars  are  a  great 
article  of  export,  and  in  one  manufactory  alone,  eight  thousand  females  are 
constantly  employed,  each  female  making  about  two  hundred  cigars  per 
day. 

The  Philippine  Islands  were  first  discovered  by  Magellan,  in  1521,  and 
still  belong  to  Spain.  They  produce  the  most  delightful  varieties  of  tropical 
productions,  and  possess  a  climate  extremely  variable,  on  account  of  their 
extent  north  and  south.  Nearly  all  their  trade  is  carried  on  through  Manilla, 
whose  commerce  is  extensive.  Among  the  beautiful  articles  of  embroidery, 
silk,  gauze,  etc.,  is  a  gossamer  fabric  called  pina,  made  of  the  delicate  fibers 
of  a  species  of  pine-apple,  This  is  so  fine,  that  all  currents  of  air,  are  ex- 
cluded from  the  room  in  which  it  is  woven,  by  means  of  gauze  screens, 
placed  at  the  windows.  It  is  made  into  collars,  handkerchiefs,  caps,  etc., 
richly  embroidered,  and  is  extremely  expensive.  Sailing  southward  through 
the  Straits  of  Mindoro,  the  Vincennes  turned  to  the  Sooloo  archipelago, 
reaching  Soung  harbor  on  the  3d  of  February,  while  the  tender  directed  its 
course  to  Singapore.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Sooloo  group  are  said  to  re- 
semble the  Chinese  in  dress,  and  differ  little  from  other  nations  of  the 
East  Indies.  Captain  Wilkes  held  an  interview  with  the  Sultan,  relative  to 
the  protection  of  American  vessels  from  Sooloo  pirates,  and  concluded  an 
amicable  treaty  with  him.  Soon  after,  the  Vincennes  joined  the  other  vessels 
of  the  squadron,  at  Singapore.  This  is  the  principal  town  of  the  small  island 
of  Singapore,  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Malay  peninsula. 

The  town  was  founded  in  1819,  by  Sir  Stamford  Raffles  and  now  con- 
tains about  30,000  inhabitants,  a  motley  race,  of  whom  the  Chinese,  and  the 
Malays  predominate.  The  harbor  is  beautiful,  and  numerous  uncouth 
vessels  lie  at  anchor,  and  a  variety  of  boats  ply  in  every  direction  over  its 
waters.  The  sovereignty  of  the  island  was  conceded  to  Great  Britain  in 
1825.  Being  near  the  equator,  the  seasons  are  much  alike,  and  the  heat  the 
same  night  and  day  through  the  whole  year.  A  fine  breeze  blows,  and  a 
pleasant  shower  falls  almost  every  day  in  the  year  ;  and  a  wonderful  energy 
alike  pervades  animal  and  vegetable  life.  Countless  varieties  of  plants 
render  the  forests  impenetrable  to  man  ;  and  myriads  of  insects  and  reptiles 
abound  both  on  land  and  in  the  sea  ;  and  corals,  madrepores,  and  mollusca, 
of  exquisite  beauty  attract  the  eye.     The  island  possesses  a  delightful  climate 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  139 

and  so  many  advantages,  that  it  has  been  called  the  "  Paradise  of  India." 
the  home  of  plenty,  and  the  abode  of  health. 

The  commerce  of  Singapore  embraces  almost  every  article  of  Indian 
Chinese,  and  European  industry.  Native  vessels  from  almost  every  part  ot 
the  "Twelve  Thousand  Islands,"  or  Oriental  archipelago,  trade  here.  These 
are  generally  manned  by  Bugis,  the  sailors  of  this  immense  collection  of 
islands.  Their  vessels  are  prows,  of  from  ten  to  one  hundred  tons,  and  with 
crews  of  from  twenty  to  sixty  men;  as  many  as  two  hundred  of  these,  annu- 
ally visit  Singapore,  having  in  them,  men  and  women,  at  least  20,000 
persons 

"  The  commerce  of  tne  countries,  in  and  around  these  seas,  would  form 
an  important  and  interesting  theme  for  the  political  economist.  From  the 
elegant  and  civilized  Chinese,  to  the  wildest  tribes  which  roam  the  interior 
of  the  most  unknown  islands,  all  are  animated  and  benefited  by  an  honorable 
commerce  which  existed,  perhaps,  before  the  European  found  his  way  into 
these  seas.  The  savage  Batta  collects  camphor — the  Daya  and  Harafoora, 
gather  diamonds  and  gold — the  Sulu  dives  for  pearl — the  Malay  explores  his 
lonely  shores  for  edible  birds'  nests,*  or  gathers  the  nutmeg  and  the  clove, 
or  sweeps  the  shores  for  agar-agarf — the  Bugis  acts  as  both  merchant  and 
mariner,  bearing  these  gatherings  from  port  to  port — the  Sumatran  furnishes 
pepper  for  all  the  world — the  more  civilized  Japanese,  smelts  ores,  and  con- 
structs articles  of  elegant  utility — the  still  more  refined  Chinese  gives  im- 
pulse to  the  whole,  by  his  luxury  and  his  capital,  while  the  Western  World 
shares  the  precious  commodities,  and  returns  the  thousand  productions  of 
more  perfect  sciences  and  arts.  This  vast,  populous,  and  favored  portion  of 
the  earth,  is  that  which  the  ancients,  even  so  late  as  the  time  of  Constantine, 
regarded  as  untenable  by  man,  inhabited  only  by  satyrs,  headless  monsters, 
and  human  pigmies." 

The  "  Twelve  Thousand  Islands,"  comprising  the  Indian  archipelago,  con- 
tains an  estimated  population  of  forty  millions  of  people.  The  several  races 
inhabiting  them,  are  divided  into  numerous  tribes  speaking  different 
languages,  and  possessing  different  religions;  among  the  principal  of  which, 
are  Mahometanism,  Buddhism,  and  Brahminism  :  the  forms  of  government 
are  various,  being,  however,  generally  petty  despotisms. 

Nowhere  on  the  surface  of  the  globe,  does  the  earth  appear  to  possess  a 
more  prolific  virtue  :  trees  of  gigantic  size,  shrubs  and  creepers  of  unparal- 
leled beauty,  and  luxuriance,  flowers  of  the  most  gorgeous  colors,  exquisite 


*  These  birds'  nests  are  made  by  the  sea-swallow,  which  finds  the  principal  ingredients 
among  the  foam  of  the  waves,  and  collects  it  as  the  bee  gathers  honey  from  flowers.  The 
substance  is  unknown,  but  it  is  half  transparent  and  glutinous,  and  when  flavored  with 
juices,  and  scented  with  the  perfume  of  certain  plants  and  flowers,  makes  a  rich,  and 
agreeable  basis  for  soup.  To  this,  the  Chinese,  who  use  it  extensively,  attribute  many 
wonderful  virtues.  The  collection  of  this  article,  is  carried  on  by  a  numerous  and  hardy 
class  of  men,  and  is  often  a  dismal  and  dangerous  occupation,  the  birds  not  unfrequently 
building  their  nests  in  caves,  and  in  the  face  of  lofty,  overhanging  precipices,  beneath 
which  the  sea  dashes  in  incessant  breakers. 

+  Agar-agar  is  a  seaweed  chiefly  exported  to  China,  where  it  is  converted  into  a  rick 
jelly  for  the  table,  and  used  also  as  sizing  for  cotton  goods  and  paper. 


140  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

forms,  and  fruits  unrivaled  for  their  fragrance  and  flavor,  present  themselves 
Ao  the  traveler.  The  forests  abound  with  odoriferous  gums,  the  seas  and 
rivers  with  fish,  and  the  earth  with  the  most  costly  gems  and  valuable 
minerals. 

A  general  comprehensive  account  of  the  Indian  archipelago,  seems  not 
out  of  place  here,  and  such  we  pause  to  give  as  presented  by  an  interesting 
writer.  "  The  name,  '  Twelve  Thousand  Islands,"  was  given  by  the  Arabs, 
who  many  centuries  since  penetrated  these  sunny  and  tranquil  seas,  and  as 
they  beheld  group  after  group  of  the  mighty  archipelago  burst  upon  their 
vision,  in  a  sort  of  poetical  admiration,  bestowed  upon  it  the  name  of  the 
'  Twelve  Thousand  Islands,'  thus  making  use  of  a  definite  expression  to 
signify  an  indefinite  number. 

This  immense  system  of  island  extends  about  3,600  miles  in  length,  by 
2,200  in  breadth.  Lying  on  both  sides  of  the  equator,  it  enjoys  throughout 
its  whole  extent  something  like  perpetual  summer,  except  where  the  elevation 
of  the  mountains  produces  a  temperature  approaching  to  that  of  more  northern 
climates.  The  productions  of  this  vast  archipelago  are  extremely  varied  ; 
and  it  will  probably  be  found  when  these  islands,  some  of  which  are  now 
almost  entirely  unknown,  are  fully  explored,  that  each,  both  small  and  great, 
grows  something  peculiar  to  itself,  in  addition  to  many  productions  which  are 
common  to  the  entire  group.  What  the  resources  of  these  islands  are,  no 
man  knows,  though  the  late  discovery  of  the  qualities  of  the  gutta-percha 
may  serve  to  justify  the  belief,  that  thousands  of  articles  which  might  be  con- 
verted to  the  use  of  civilized  man,  now  lie  concealed  within  their  forests. 

Entering  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  and  sailing  eastward  by  the  island  of 
Singapore,  the  traveler  may  be  said  to  enjoy  a  perpetually  shifting  panorama, 
whose  features  are  richer  and  more  magnificent  than  can  be  viewed  anywhere 
else  in  the  world.  Here  he  will  observe  innumerable  islets,  level  or  pyra- 
midal, floating  like  so  many  green  nests  upon  the  waves  ;  there  he  will  seem 
to  be  sailing  along  the  coasts  of  large  continents,  or  of  its  lands  which  he 
could  not  circumnavigate  in  many  months.  Sometimes,  as  he  advances  to- 
ward the  rising  sun,  he  beholds  a  succession  of  verdant  plains  or  savannas, 
which  are  then  suddenly  interchanged  for  alpine  regions,  covered  with 
gorgeous  vegetation  to  the  summit,  which  is  often  lost  in  the  clouds.  In  one 
place  the  seas  are  as  narrow  as  rivers,  intersected  by  coral  reefs,  studded 
with  feathery  islets,  sheltered  by  mountains  overhung  by  cliffs  and  precipices, 
and  painted  with  a  variety  of  brilliant  colors  by  the  superb  reflections  of  the 
shores.  Elsewhere  the  waters  unfold  themselves  in  sunny  expanses,  on 
which  for  whole  days  one  may  lose  sight  of  land,  though  always  made  con- 
scious of  its  vicinity  by  the  flight  of  birds,  or  the  appearance  of  small  prahut 
(boats),  which  could  not  venture  their  frail  constructions  upon  the  ocean. 
The  reflection  which  naturally  suggests  itself  to  the  mind  is,  that  one  is  pass- 
ing over  the  ruins  of  a  submerged  continent,  the  pinnacles  only  of  which, 
now  appear  above  the  water. 

The  stranger  cannot  but  regard  with  extreme  interest  the  ever-varying 
aspect  of  the  different  groups,  peopled  by  millions  of  human  beings,  in  very 
different  stages  of  civilization.     He  will  observe  fleets  of  prahus  laden  with 


WILKES  S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  141 

the  merchandise  of  Europe,  making  their  way  with  oars  and  sails  toward  the 
Aroo  islands,  and  the  coasts  of  New  Guinea,  and  others  steering  toward 
Macassar,  Labuan,  Sarawak,  or  Singapore,  with  the  rich  commodities  found 
among  the  islands  on  the  eastern  verge  of  the  archipelago,  and  all  perform- 
ing the  duties  of  civilization's  primitive  apostles — uniting  innumerable  islands 
and  groups  by  the  links  of  commerce,  whose  golden  touch  everywhere  awakens 
industry,  and  incites  men,  otherwise  lethargic,  to  serve  their  neighbors  by 
benefiting  themselves. 

By  this  beneficent  process  the  whole  archipelago  might,  in  time,  be 
brought  to  taste  the  blessings  of  refinement.  Unfortunately,  however,  for 
ages  there  has  existed  an  extensive  system  of  piracy,  which  has  kept  these 
islands  in  a  state  of  barbarism.  These  buccanneers  are  Malays,  Dyaks,  and 
Arabs,  who  are  exceedingly  numerous  in  all  the  groups  of  islands.  The 
nature  of  the  seas  affords  them  every  possible  advantage  for  carrying  on  their 
calling  successfully  ;  large  and  endless  coral  reefs,  of  which  they  alone  know 
the  secret  entrances  and  exits  ;  narrow  channels  between  islands  ;  gulfs, 
shoals,  creeks,  and  bays  ;  and  on  the  great  islands  innumerable  rivers  ;  with 
a  vast  network  of  branches,  channels,  deltas,  sandbanks,  and  diverging 
mouths.  Of  the  strength  of  their  buccaneering  fleets,  various  estimates 
have  been  formed,  but  they  have  been  known  in  former  times,  to  amount  to 
several  hundred  prahus,  which,  with  their  united  crews,  formed  a  force  of 
several  thousand  pirates,  all  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  inspired  by  an  insati- 
able appetite  for  rapine  and  plunder. 

These  fleets  do  not  proceed  to  attack  the  posts  or  fleets  of  any  neighboring 
or  hostile  tribes,  but  taking  the  widest  possible  range,  extend  their  ravages 
to  the  most  distant  islands,  and  sometimes  include  Singapore  within  the  scope 
of  their  operations.  It  is  an  indisputable  fact,  that  small  vessels  belonging 
to  that  British  post,  have  been  captured  among  the  intricate  channels  of  the 
neighboring  groups,  after  which,  the  buccaneers,  disguising  themselves  as 
fishermen,  or  honest  traders,  have  boldly  entered  the  harbor,  and  sold  both 
the  vessels  and  the  merchandise  they  contained,  to  the  Kling,  Chinese  or 
Malay  residents  ;  of  course  the  crews  of  such  unfortunate  vessels  were 
otherwise  disposed  of — that  is,  were  either  murdered  in  cold  blood,  or  sold 
for  slaves  in  some  distant  island. 

On  other  occasions,  when  the  pirates  confine  their  ambition  to  humbler 
achievements,  they  sweep  along  the  coast  of  some  great  island,  such  as  Bor- 
neo, Celebes,  Java,  Sumatra,  or  New  Guinea,  plundering,  ravaging,  burning, 
and  collecting  captives  as  they  advance.  When  their  force  is  sufficiently 
great  to  inspire  them  with  confidence,  they  ascend  some  river,  and  attack  in 
succession,  all  the  towns  erected  on  its  banks.  The  plan  they  pursue  is 
generally  this  :  a  party  disembarks,  and  penetrating  through  the  jungle,  hems 
in  the  devoted  settlement  on  the  land  side,  while  a  cordon  of  prahus  de- 
velops itself  along  the  beach.  The  inhabitants  rush  to  arms,  and  defend 
themselves,  sometimes  not  without  success,  attacking  and  perhaps  burning 
the  enemy's  vessels.  More  commonly,  however,  the  assailants  triumph,  the 
village  is  sacked  and  destroyed,  and  the  unfortunate  inhabitants  driven  into 
the  wilderness.     Sometimes  they  carry  out  their  designs  in  a  more  diabolica/ 


142  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

manner.  Approaching  the  village  under  cover  of  the  night,  with  the  utmost 
silence  and  secrecy,  they  surround  it  completely  on  all  sides  ;  and  while  the 
main  body  stand  ready  with  their  spears  and  matchlocks,  to  slaughter  ali 
who  attempt  to  escape,  a  few  kindle  torches,  and  advance  and  fire  the 
houses.  A  loud  shout  is  then  simultaneously  raised,  the  more  completely  tc 
bewilder  the  inmates,  who,  awakening  in  the  midst  of  noise  and  flames,  rush 
forth  blindly  in  the  first  impulse  of  terror,  and  are  easily  speared  by  the 
pirates.  On  all  the  men  death  is  inflicted  in  this  way,  but  the  women  and 
children  are  preserved  to  be  disposed  of  in  slave  markets.  These  expedi- 
tions are  conducted  on  precisely  the  same  principles  and  for  the  same  objects 
as  the  African  slave  hunts. 

The  piratical  Malays,  Dyaks,  and  Arabs,  who  chiefly  subsist  by  making 
war  on  industry,  are  nevertheless  at  intervals,  themselves  industrious,  ap- 
plying themselves  to  fishing,  trading,  collecting  the  produce  of  the  surround- 
ing forests,  or  even  cultivating  the  soil,  the  process  least  reconcilable  with  the 
habits  of  a  buccaneer.  Pitching  upon  a  suitable  situation,  they  erect  for 
themselves  neat  and  capacious  villages,  which  are  extremely  peculiar.  In 
these  fertile  equatorial  countries,  the  trees  attain  an  immense  bulk  and  height, 
and  in  the  primeval  wilderness,  grow  close  together.  With  a  taste  and  an 
originality  of  conception,  suggested  at  first,  perhaps,  by  the  nature  of  the 
climate,  they  ascend  these  vast  denizens  of  the  forest,  and  cut  off  the  head 
and  projecting  branches  at  the  height  of  about  forty  or  fifty  feet  from  the 
ground,  and  by  barking,  to  prevent  growth,  convert  them  into  so  many 
pillars.  On  the  summit  of  these  they  lay  the  foundation  of  their  future 
village,  which  thus,  even  in  the  most  swampy  situations,  is  airy,  cool,  and 
healthy.  The  dwellings  are  formed  of  timber  and  light  cane  work,  and  with 
republican  simplicity,  are  made  all  of  equal  height  and  dimension.  Along 
its  whole  length,  runs  a  broad  gallery  or  veranda,  with  low  lattice-work  in 
front,  to  prevent  the  children  from  tumbling  over.  Frequently  this  gallery 
surrounds  the  whole  village,  and  commands  magnificent  prospects  over  the 
river  and  country.  Here,  in  a  sort  of  cloistered  shade  and  breezy  elevation, 
the  female  pirates  may  be  seen  sitting  at  work,  or  nursing  their  babes,  while 
their  husbands  are  on  their  distant  and  dangerous  depredations,  or  en- 
gaged in  tending  their  cocoanut  groves,  rice  plantations,  and  even  their 
gardens,  for  these  people,  rude  and  sensual  in  many  respects,  are  highly 
poetical  in  their  partiality  for  horticulture.  These  piratical  paradises, 
with  their  trim  beds,  their  carefully  laid  out  alleys,  their  plants,  flowers 
and  luxuriant  vegetation,  present  an  extremely  pleasant  feature  to  the  fancy. 
Close  at  hand,  also,  are  the  cocoanut  groves,  with  their  cleared  stems  and 
clustering  fruit,  and  long  pendulous  leaves,  waving  lazily  in  the  wind. 

In  the  dwellings  of  the  pirates,  the  imagination  may  likewise  find  some- 
thing with  which  to  interest  itself.  When  the  Dyaks  predominate,  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  objects  perceived  on  entering,  is  a  number  of  human  heads, 
smoke-dried,  and  suspended  in  festoons  or  strings;  these  are  regarded  as 
warlike  trophies,  and  are  exhibited  with  pride  by  the  inmates. 

That  there  should  be  Arabs  at  all  in  these  distant  isles,  may  justly  excite 
the  reader's  surprise,  especially  when  he  learns  their  numbers,  and  the  great 


WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPED1  HON.  143 

power  they  have,  at  times,  exercised  among  the  native  tribes.  Of  the  irrup« 
don  of  these  men  from  Arabia,  eastward,  little  is  known,  but  it  is  supposed 
to  have  taken  place  about  a  thousand  years  ago,  when  Islamism  was  first 
communicaiing  its  mighty  impulse  to  the  populations  of  Western  Asia,  and 
throwing  them  forth  like  lava  streams,  to  overflow  the  neighboring  countries 
in  all  directions  ;  a  section  of  the  bold  race,  half  prophets,  half  adventurers, 
carried  the  sword  of  the  faith  to  the  very  gates  of  the  Celestial  Empire, 
everywhere  triumphing,  either  by  the  force  of  their  arms,  or  by  the  superi- 
ority of  their  knowledge  and  understandings.  When  the  Moslems,  elevated 
into  a  sublimity  of  character  by  their  belief  in  the  unity  of  God,  first  left 
their  homes,  there  was  not  a  region  in  the  world  in  which  they  would  not 
find  themselves  superior  to  all  they  met.  With  unparalleled  disinterested- 
ness, and  singleness  of  purpose,  and  enthusiasm,  they  undertook  the  con- 
quest of  the  world,  not  so  much  to  acquire  riches  and  dominion  for  them- 
selves, as  to  insure  reverence  to  the  truths  they  taught,  and  the  morality 
which  they,  for  a  time,  unquestionably,  practiced. 

Arriving  in  the  Twelve  Thousand  Islands,  they  easily  acquired  among  the 
rude  natives  both  respect  and  power,  and  soon  became  rulers,  magistrates, 
and  lawgivers.  Unsusceptible  to  the  passion  of  fear,  they  exposed  them- 
selves without  shrinking  to  the  greatest  danger,  firmly  persuaded  that  the) 
must  obtain  power  on  earth,  or  the  crown  of  martyrdom  in  heaven. 

Their  religious  fervor  gradually  cooled,  and  what  was  first  apostleship, 
therefore,  speedily  became  ambition  ;  and  the  children  of  Mahomet  achieved 
for  themselves  sovereignties,  erected  palaces,  organized  harems,  and  delighted 
their  epicurean  fancies  with  a  blaze  of  grandeur  and  magnificence  scarcely 
known  to  the  sultans  of  Egypt,  or  the  still  more  voluptuous  Shahs  of  Ivan. 
■Sumatra,  Java,  Celebes,  Timor,  and  Borneo,  submitted  to  the  sway  of  Mos- 
lem princes,  who,  possessing  the  elements  of  a  civilization,  elevated  very  far 
above  that  of  the  natives,  may  be  said  to  have  done  good  service  by  enlight- 
ening and  humanizing  their  subjects.  What  the  Arabs  of  Egypt,  and  of 
Persia,  thought  of  the  achievements  of  their  countrymen  in  the  east,  may  be 
learned  from  the  narratives  of  the  "Arabian  Nights,"  every  page  of  which 
furnishes  evidence  that  the  imagination  of  the  Moslems  figured  to  itself  a 
boundless  world  in  the  recesses  of  the  Eastern  Ocean,  where  islands  and  con- 
tinents of  unimaginable  extent  and  fabulous  opulence,  stretched  away  inter- 
minably toward  the  rising  sun. 

The  Sultan  of  Matarain,  in  Java,  and  that  of  Brune\  in  Borneo,  acquired 
extraordinary  authority,  and  there  was  not  one  island  of  note  in  the  whole  of 
the  mighty  group,  that  did  not  experience  more  or  less  the  influence  of  Ma- 
hommedanism.  What  direction  this  civilization  might  hare  taken,  had  it 
been  left  to  freely  develop  itself,  cannot  now  be  determined  upon,  because  in 
the  midst  of  its  career  the  natives  of  Europe  made  their  appearance  in  the 
archipelago,  and  threw  into  inextricable  confusion,  the  whole  of  this  extraor- 
dinary system  of  society.  The  Portuguese  and  the  Spaniards  took  the  lead, 
and  for  awhile  reaped  a  golden  harvest.  The  former  finding  more  encour- 
agement elsewhere,  drifted  toward  Japan  and  China,  leaving  the  Spaniards 
to  struggle  with  the  Dutch,  for  the  supremacy  of  the  archipelago,  where  the 


144  WILKES'S  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

rich  and  beautiful  group  of  the  Philippines  still  yields  obedience  to  Spain.  In 
destroying  one  set  of  institutions,  these  Europeans  did  not  establish  their  own  ; 
but  such  was  their  despotic,  sanguinary  course,  which  alone  was  governed  by 
motives  of  relentless  cupidity,  that  under  their  baneful  influence  these  islands 
in  a  measure,  have  been  thrust  back  into  a  state  of  barbarism.  The  British, 
who  of  late  have  been  taking  measures  to  gain  a  foothold  in  the  archipelago, 
by  their  measures  for  destroying  piracy,  and  by  the  efforts  of  their  mission- 
aries, will  eventually  do  much  for  the  civilization  of  its  people." 

At  Singapore,  the  officers  and  crew  of  the  exploring  expedition  joyfully 
hailed  the  prospect  of  a  speedy  return  to  the  land  and  homes  from  which 
,hey  had  been  so  long  separated. 

To  the  regret  of  all,  the  Flying-Fish,  on  examination,  was  found  unfit  to 
•eturn  home,  and  they  were  reluctantly  compelled  to  sell  at  public  auction, 
she  companion  of  so  many  perilous  voyages,  and  the  participant  in  strange, 
wild  adventures,  in  the  distant  southern  seas.  Her  crew  was  transferred  to 
the  other  vessels,  and  the  squadron  sailed  from  Singapore  on  the  26th  of 
February,  entering  the  Indian  Ocean  a  week  after.  The  Vincennes,  making 
more  progress  than  the  other  vessels,  Captain  Wilkes  concluded  to  touch  at 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  while  the  Porpoise  and  Oregon  proceeded  to  Ric 
Janeiro.  The  Vincennes  arrived  at  Table  Bay,  in  the  middle  of  April,  and 
touched  at  St.  Helena  on  the  first  of  May,  where  the  Porpoise  and  Oregon 
had  preceded  her.  On  the  10th  of  June,  1842,  she  entered  the  Brooklyn 
navy  yard,  where  she  was  soon  joined  by  the  Porpoise  and  Oregon,  and 
gladly  welcomed  home,  after  a  protracted  voyage  of  perilous  adventure,  and 
gratifying  discovery,  the  Porpoise  and  Vincennes  being  the  only  two  of  the 
original  squadron,  which  four  years  previously  had  left  the  United  States  on 
an  expedition,  in  some  respects,  unequaled  in  interest  and  importance. 


BART  LETT'S    GLIMPSES 


OF 


EGYPT 


NCAMPMENT      IN     THE      DESEET. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Description  of  Egypt — Condition  of  Egypt  in  the  time  of  Abraham— The  Shepherd  Kings— 
The  Theban  Kings — Settlement  of  the  Israelites — The  Kings  of  Sais— Conquest  by  Alex- 
ander— Conquest  by  the  Arabs — Arrival  at  Alexandria — Miserable  Condition  of  the 
Fellahs — Alexandria — Mehemet  Ali's  Canal — Voyage  on  the  Nile — The  Nile  Valley — The 
Delta — Cairo — Blind  Persons — The  Regiments  of  one  eyed  soldiers — Vailed  Females — 
The  Bazaar — Arab  Merchants — Memphis — Heliopolis — Visit  to  the  Pyramids. 

This  ancient  and  celebrated  kingdom  occupies  the  whole  of  the  region  of 
the  Nile,  and  in  area  equals  four  such  states  as  Ohio.  Little  more  than  one- 
tenth  part,  and  principally  that  along  the  valley  of  the  Nile  can  be  cultivated, 
the  remainder  consisting  mainly  of  sandy  deserts,  and  sterile  rocky  mountains. 
The  valley  of  the  Nile  from  the  cataracts  to  near  Cairo,  is  bounded  on  both 
sides  by  ranges  of  mountains.  The  banks  of  this  celebrated  river,  consist 
of  a  succession  of  rich  plains  of  unequal  width,  studded  with  little  groves 
of  palm  trees,  each  of  which  hides  a  village.  These  groves,  animated  by 
numerous  flocks  of  turtle  doves,  pigeons,  and  other  birds,  are  surrounded 
with  cultivated  land,  which  is  sometimes  covered  by  the  inundation ;  and  on 

10  u:> 


146  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYP1. 

the  rising  of  the  waters,  or  at  other  seasons  by  irrigation,  is  clothed  with  the 
richest  verdure,  and  the  most  luxuriant  crops. 

The  Nile,  about  eighty  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Mediterranean, 
divides  into  two  great  branches,  the  dead  level  plain  between  them  being 
the  celebrated  Delta.  On  each  side  of  the  Delta  is  a  level  plain  of  the  same 
character.  The  whole  of  these  plains  are  intersected  in  every  direction  by 
numerous  canals,  which  everywhere  convey  the  water,  and  produce  a  con- 
tinual verdure.  About  sixty  miles  above  Cairo,  a  canal  passes  through  a 
gap  in  the  western  mountains,  into  a  large  and  populous  district  called 
Fayoum.  Here,  smiling  fields  covered  with  a  luxurious,  and  almost  tropical 
magnificence  of  vegetation,  form  a  beautiful  contrast  to  the  surround- 
ing barren  desert. 

The  coast  of  Egypt  is  so  low,  that  when  first  seen,  it  looks  like  a  faint  line 
on  the  horizon.  Without  the  periodical  rise  of  the  Nile,  which  is  caused  by 
the  heavy  annual  rains  in  Central  Africa,  and  its  consequent  depositions,  the 
whole  of  Egypt  would  be  a  desert,  and  the  fertility  of  its  inundated  portions 
would  not  exist,  for  it  scarce  ever  rains  in  Egypt,  in  some  parts  not  averag- 
ing over  two  showers  in  a  year. 

Egypt  contains  all  the  cultivated  vegetables  in  the  old  world  ;  but  it  has 
neither  meadows  nor  forests.  Beasts  of  prey  abound  ;  jackals  and  hyenas, 
are  common,  crocodiles  infest  the  Nile,  and  noxious  vermin  swarm  among  the 
inhabitants. 

Egypt  has  long  been  occupied  by  races  of  various  origin,  who  have  re- 
tained their  distinguishing  characteristics  with  the  constancy  peculiar  to  ori- 
ental nations.  The  Mameluke,  making  his  boast  of  being  a  purchased  slave, 
lived  for  centuries  by  the  side  of  the  Arab,  proud  of  his  freedom  and  ancient 
family.  The  Mamelukes,  however,  are  now  expelled  ;  and  the  leading  races 
consist  of  the  Copts,  the  Arabs,  and  the  Turks.  The  Copts,  though  of  no 
political  importance,  are  by  much  the  most  ancient,  and,  strictly  speaking,  the 
only  native  race.  The  sculptures  on  the  most  ancient  monuments  represent 
under  the  same  form  and  features  the  original  Egyptians,  when  that  country 
was  ruled  by  its  native  kings.  The  word  Copt  seems  even  a  corruption  of 
the  middle  syllable  of  the  word  Egyptian,  and  the  Copts  are  supposed  to  be 
descendants  of  the  ancient  Egyptians. 

The  most  numerous  part  of  the  population,  being  that  almost  exclusively 
employed  in  agriculture,  consists  of  Arabs,  whom  the  fertile  soil  of  Egypt 
has  attracted  f/om  all  the  surrounding  regions  of  desert.  Lower  Egypt  has 
been  peopled  chiefly  from  Arabia  and  the  shore  of  the  Red  Sea ;  Upper 
Egypt,  from  the  tracts  of  Africa,  which  lie  to  the  west  and  south.  These 
cultivating  Arabs,  called  Fellahs,  retain  much  both  of  the  features  and  char- 
acter  of  their  original  tribes;  an  oval  countenance,  dark  skin,  large  forehead, 
and  small  sparkling  eyes.  Neither  have  they,  by  any  means,  lost  that  pride, 
attachment  to  kindred  and  ancestry,  and  vindictive  spirit,  which  distinguish 
the  independent  sheiks  of  the  desert.  On  the  whole,  however,  their  conduct 
is  much  more  settled  and  peaceable ;  indeed,  in  the  large  towns  of  the  Delta, 
they  have  contracted  dissolute  and  irregular  habits,  which  seem  to  have  pre* 
vailed  from  antiquity  in  that  part  of  Egypt. 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  147 

The  Turks,  though  the  least  numerous  part  of  the  population,  are  highly 
important,  as  having  been  always,  nominally,  and  as  being  now,  really,  the 
masters  of  the  country.  In  their  general  features  they  do  not  differ  from 
those  who  inherit  the  rest  of  the  empire.  This  small  portion,  however,  the 
instruments  of  a  despotic  government,  and  who  all  either  possess  or  aim  at 
political  power,  do  not  afford  a  favorable  specimen  of  the  Turkish  character. 
Among  no  description  of  men,  perhaps,  exists  a  more  entire  disregard  of 
principle,  than  among  the  officers  of  a  despotic  government,  who,  in  seeking  to 
rise,  are  accustomed  to  resort  to  every  means  of  violence  or  fraud.  Spending 
most  of  their  time  in  a  gloomy  retirement,  they  brood  in  silence  over  their 
dark  machinations,  and  are  continually  revolving  schemes  for  circumventing 
and  destroying  each  other. 

There  are  Jews,  Greeks,  and  Armenians  in  Egypt,  but  scarcely  in  sufficient 
number  to  be  considered  otherwise  than  as  strangers  settled  in  the  country. 
The  Jews  are,  in  a  great  measure,  supplanted  by  the  Copts,  a  similarly  op- 
pressed race,  in  all  those  branches  of  traffic  which  usually  devolve  upon  them 
in  Mahometan  countries. 

The  religion  of  Egypt  is  the  Mahometan,  exercised  with  all  its  accustomed 
bigotry  and  intolerance.  The  Copts,  who  profess  Christianity,  are  subjected 
to  a  special  tribute  or  poll-tax,  and  are  excluded  from  all  public  employments, 
except  those  in  which  their  exclusive  qualifications  render  it  absolutely 
necessary  to  employ  them. 

In  all  hot  countries,  but  more  especially  in  Egypt,  irrigation  is  the  first  re- 
course of  agriculture.  The  periodical  inundation  of  the  Nile,  when  swelled 
by  the  rains  of  Abyssinia  and  central  Africa,  is  the  primary  cause  on  which 
her  fertility  depends.  This  is  so  fully  admitted,  that,  in  the  years  when  the 
Nile  does  not  rise  beyond  a  certain  height,  the  miri,  or  tribute,  is  not  exacted. 
The  whole  of  the  Delta,  during  the  autumnal  season,  is  laid  entirely  under 
water.  To  effect  this  object,  a  number  of  intersecting  canals  were  formed  by 
the  provident  care  of  the  ancient  government;  and  the  utility  of  these  is  so 
urgent,  and  the  consequences  of  their  interruption  so  immediately  fatal,  that 
they  have  not  been  wholly  neglected,  even  by  the  supineness  of  modern  ad- 
ministration. The  number  of  canals  in  Egypt  has  been  stated  at  6,000  ;  but 
this,  at  all  events  a  loose  estimate,  cannot  be  true,  unless  we  include  those 
minor  channels  conducted  by  private  industry  through  every  tract,  and 
almost  every  field.  The  great  canals,  which  are  maintained  by  the  public, 
do  not  exceed  eighty  or  ninety.  In  a  great  part  of  Upper  Egypt  and  of 
Fayoum,  machinery  is  employed  to  convey  the  water  to  grounds  which,  from 
their  elevation  above  the  river,  cannot,  without  artificial  means,  be  inundated. 
Buckets  raised  by  pulleys  are  sometimes  sufficient ;  but  at  other  times  re- 
course is  had  to  more  ingenious  machines  moved  by  oxen.  This  successive 
rise  and  retiring  of  the  waters  produces  a  singular  variation  in  the  aspect  and 
surface  of  Egypt.  According  to  the  description  of  Amrou,  in  his  report  to 
the  Caliph  Omar,  it  presents  in  succession  an  appearance  of  a  field  of  dust, 
that  of  a  fresh -water  sea,  and  that  of  a  flower-garden." 

The  trade  of  Egypt  consists  chiefly  in  the  export  of  her  raw  produce,  par- 
ticularly cotton,  and  of  the  articles  brought  from  the  interior  by  caravans  . 


148  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

but  the  principal  article  is  negro  and  Abyssinia  slaves,  who  are  brought  in 
great  numbers  to  the  slave  markets  of  Egypt,  whence  all  the  neighboring 
princes  of  the  Turkish  Empire  are  supplied.  Modern  Egypt  is  divided  into 
Lower,  Middle,  and  Upper  Egypt. 

There  is  no  kingdom  more  distinguished  in  history  than  Egypt,  or  the  name 
of  which  excites  more  awful  and  solemn  ideas.  Her  people  are  the  earliest 
known  to  us  as  a  nation,  and  Egypt  had  endured  for  ages  before  Greece  and 
Rome  sprung  into  existence.  When  Abraham  entered  the  Delta,  from  Ca- 
naan, the  Egyptians  had  long  enjoyed  a  settled  government  and  established 
laws.  While  Abraham  and  his  countrymen  were  moving  about  in  tents  and 
wagons,  the  Egyptians  were  living  in  cities.  They  had  already  cultivated 
agriculture,  and  parceled  out  their  valleys  into  farms;  they  reverenced  a  land- 
mark as  a  god,  while  their  neighbors  knew  of  no  property  but  herds  and 
moveables.  They  had  invented  hieroglyphics  and  improved  them  into  sylla- 
bic writing".  Thev  had  invented  records,  and  wrote  their  kings'  names  and 
actions  on  the  massive  temples  which  they  raised.  Of  course,  we  have  no 
means  of  counting  the  ages  during  which  civilization  was  slowly  making 
these  steps  of  improvement.  Its  earliest  history  is  involved  in  fable,  when 
it  is  said  the  gods  reigned  on  earth  ;  its  ascertained  history  commences  with 
the  oldest  remaining  records.  These  are  the  temple  at  Karnak,  the  obelisk 
at  Heliopolis,  .the  great  pyramids  built  by  kings  of  Memphis,  with  the  tablets 
in  the  copper-mines  near  Sinai,  recording  the  conquest  of  that  country  by 
Suphis.  Such  was  the  state  of  Egypt  in  the  time  of  Abraham.  It  was  di- 
vided into  several  little  kingdoms.  Subsequently,  the  Chaldean  and  Pheni- 
cian  herdsmen  moved  from  the  east,  and  settled  in  great  numbers  in  the 
Delta,  and  their  sovereigns,  who  dwelt  at  Abaris,  the  city  probably  after- 
ward called  Heliopolis,  were  called  the  shepherd  kings.  They  took  posses- 
sion of  some  of  the  cities,  and  levied  tribute  upon  the  Egyptians.  The  states 
of  Egypt  made  common  ground  against  their  tyranny,  and  about  1500  years 
before  the  birth  of  Christ  united  and  expelled  them  from  the  land. 

Now  began  the  reign  of  those  great  Theban  kings,  whose  temples,  statues, 
obelisks,  and  tombs,  have  made  the  valley  of  the  Nile  of  such  interest  to 
travelers,  for  more  than  three  thousand  years.  The  third  pyramid  was  built; 
the  great  sphinx  was  carved,  and  the  two  gigantic  statues  on  the  plain  of 
Thebes  were  set  up,  one  of  which  uttered  its  musical  notes  every  morning  at 
sunrise. 

It  was  at  the  beginning  of  this  period  that  the  Israelites  settled  in  the 
Delta,  and  Joseph,  as  prime  minister  of  the  king  of  Memphis,  changed  the 
laws  of  Lower  Egypt.  And  it  was  after  Thebes  and  Memphis  were  united, 
that  Moses  led  his  countrymen  out  of  Egypt,  to  escape  the  tyranny  of  their 
masters.  The  Egyptian  religion  at  this  time,  was  the  worship  of  a  crowd  of 
gods,  of  which  some  were  stone  statues,  and  others  living  animals  ;  and  it 
was  against  these  and  other  Egyptian  superstitions,  that  many  of  the  laws  of 
Moses  are  directly  pointed. 

The  tombs  of  these  kings  are  large  rooms  quarried  into  the  Libyan  hills, 
opposite  to  Thebes,  with  walls  carved  with  paintings,  which  this  wonderfully 
dry  climate   still   keeps   as   fresh  as  if  just  painted,  and  with  hieroglyphics 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EG  fPT.  149 

whbh  we  are  attempting  to  read.  The  grand  and  simple  columns  whici 
upheld  their  temples  were  afterward  models  from  which  the  Greeks  copied 
Theban  prosperity  had  lasted  about  500  years,  during  which  the  magnifi- 
cence and  civilization  of  Egypt  was  the  wonder  of  all  neighboring  nations. 

For  the  next  300  years  Egypt  was  in  a  state  of  war  and  turbulence.  As 
the  prophet  Isaiah  had  foretold,  Egyptian  fought  against  Egyptian,  brother 
against  brother,  neighbor  against  neighbor,  city  against  city,  and  kingdom 
against  kingdom.  At  length,  aided  by  the  Greeks,  the  city  of  Sais  gained 
the  mastery,  and  under  the  Kings  of  Sais,  Egypt  was  again  prosperous. 
Next,  Cambyses  overran  Egypt,  and  reduced  it  to  a  Persian  province,  and 
for  200  years  it  suffered  severely  under  its  Persian  rulers,  and  its  own 
struggles  for  freedom. 

After  Alexander  the  Great  had  conquered  Persia,  a  little  more  than  three 
centuries  before  the  birth  of  Christ,  Egypt  became  a  Greek  kingdom,  and 
Alexander  founded  Alexandria,  as  the  Greek  capital.  On  his  death,  his 
lieutenant,  Ptolemy,  became  the  first  of  a  race  of  monarchs  who  governed 
for  three  hundred  years,  and  made  it  a  second  time  the  chief  kingdom  in  the 
world,  till  it  sunk  under  its  own  vices  and  luxuries,  and  the  rising  power  of 
Rome.  The  Ptolemies  founded  a  large  public  library,  and  a  museum  of 
learned  men.  Under  their  patronage  Euclid  wrote  his  geometry  ;  conic  sec- 
tions were  invented;  anatomy  was  studied;  Homer  was  edited;  the  Bible  trans- 
lated into  Greek,  and  several  of  the  apocryphal  books  were  written. 

Under  these  Alexandrian  Kings,  the  Egyptians  still  continued  building 
their  grand  and  massive  temples,  and  finally  unsuccessfully  rebelled  against 
the  Alexandrians.  After  the  death  of  the  beautiful  Cleopatra  and  the  defeat 
of  Mark  Antony,  Egypt  became  a  province  of  the  Roman  Empire.  It  was 
still  a  Greek  state,  and  Alexandria  was  the  chief  seat  of  Greek  learning  and 
science.  The  library  which  had  been  burnt  by  Caesar's  soldiers,  had  been 
replaced  by  another,  the  famous  Alexandrian  Library,  afterward  burnt  by 
the  Arabs.  The  Egyptians  still  continued  building  temples,  and  covering 
them  with  hieroglyphics  as  of  old.  But  on  the  spread  of  Christianity,  old 
superstitions  died  out;  animals  were  no  longer  worshiped,  and  hieroglyphics 
ceased  to  be  made.  Monasteries  were  built  all  over  the  land  ;  Christian 
monks  took  the  place  of  Pagan  hermits,  and  the  Bible  was  translated  into 
the  Coptic. 

On  the  division  of  the  Roman  Empire,  Egypt  fell  to  the  lot  of  Constanti- 
nople, and  the  last  traces  of  science  retreated  from  Alexandria  before 
ignorance  and  bigotry.  The  country  fell  off  every  year  in  civilization,  popu- 
lation and  strength  ;  and  when  the  Arabs  or  Saracens,  animated  by  religion, 
and  with  all  the  vigor  and  youth  of  a  new  people,  burst  forth  upon  their 
neighbors,  Egypt  was  conquered  by  the  followers  of  Mahomet,  a.  d.,  G40, 
six  hundred  and  seventy  years  after  it  had  been  conquered  by  the  Romans, 
and  with  the  exception  of  the  short  time  it  was  in  possession  of  Napoleon,  it 
has  been  under  the  dominion  of  people  of  that  faith,  from  that  day  to  this. 


It  was  on  a  bright  day  early  in  the  summer  of  1845,  that  Mr.  W.  H.  Bart- 
lett,  the    author   of   "  Forty  Days   in  the    Desert,"  embarked  on  board   a 


150  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

steamer  at  Marseilles,  for  the  historic  land  of  Egjpt.  Their  voyage  through 
this  summer  sea  was  brief  and  prosperous.  After  leaving  the  Island  of 
Malta,  the  sky  grew  warmer,  and  was  tinged  with  a  soft  purple  hue,  as  they 
neared  the  African  coast.  On  the  fourth  day,  the  Egyptian  shore  appeared, 
a  long,  low,  yellow  line  of  sand,  specked  with  a  few  distant  palm  trees,  and 
camels  pacing  along  the  coast.  Soon  they  were  before  Alexandria,  which  was 
the  greatest  of  all  cities  founded  by  the  mighty  conqueror,  who  here  meant 
to  revive  the  glory  of  the  Troy  which  he  had  ruined. 

Of  the  ancient  splendor  of  the  great  capital  of  the  West,  scarce  a  trace 
remains.  Our  traveler  found  the  town  of  a  half  Oriental,  half  European 
aspect,  its  streets  swarming  with  Turks  in  gorgeous  robes,  half  naked  Arabs, 
glossy  Negroes,  shabby-looking  Israelites,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Europeans, 
of  every  shade,  from  lordly  consuls,  down  to  scamps  of  every  degree  ;  dirty 
Christian  monks,  sullen  moslem  dervishes,  sore-eved  beggars,  naked  children 
covered  with  fleas,  and  troops  of  half  savage  dogs,  all  aided  to  fill  up  the 
motley  picture. 

The  Fellahs,  or  Egyptian  Arabs,  are  the  common  laborers,  and  although 
very  graceful  and  antique  in  appearance,  are  a  wretched  race,  living  in  filth 
in  ruined  hovels,  which  the  first  storm  destroys.  Even  childhood  here, 
seems  a  most  wretched  period  of  existence ;  the  meager,  listless  infants 
covered  with  dirt  and  fleas,  which  form  a  black  ring  around  their  apparently 
diseased  eyes,  present  a  distressing  spectacle.  Yet  with  all  their  poverty  and 
i  qualor  the  Fellahs  are  a  noisy,  jovial  people. 

The  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  founded  by  Alexander,  lay  a  short  distance 
.outh  of  the  modern  town.  Here,  among  the  relics  of  the  desolation  of  ages, 
are  the  obelisks  called  the  needles  of  Cleopatra,  and  Pompey's  pillar,  a  noble 
column  of  granite  about  seventy  feet  high.  It  is  supposed  to  have  belonged  to 
a  magnificent  building,  containing  the  celebrated  Alexandrian  Library,  burnt 
by  the  Moslem  conqueror,  Caliph  Omar.  This  library  was  composed  of 
700,000  manuscript  volumes ;  these  were  supposed  to  have  been  mostly 
works  of  theological  controversy.  The  fanatical  Omar  ordered  its  destruc- 
tion, exclaiming,  that  if  the  contents  of  the  books  were  agreeable  to  the  word 
of  God,  that  is  the  Koran,  there  would  be  no  need  of  them;  if  not  they  ought 
not  to  exist.  They  were  accordingly  used  for  heating  the  4000  baths  of  the 
great  city  of  the  West,  which  then  contained  no  less  than  4000  palaces,  and 
400  theaters.     Under  Moslem  rule  the  city  rapidly  declined. 

A  canal  seventy  miles  long,  cut  in  1819,  by  Mehemet  Ali,  connects  Alex- 
andria with  the  Nile.  Such  was  his  reckless,  despotic  haste,  that  a  forced 
levy  of  300,000  Fellahs  were  gathered  to  make  the  work,  without  tools  or 
adequate  provisions.  Obliged  to  dig  with  their  hands,  often  in  deep  mud 
and  a  poisonous  atmosphere,  30,000  of  their  number  perished  in  the  seven 
months  in  which  the  work  was  constructed.  The  canal  is  animated  by  the 
constant  passage  of  boats  laden  with  rice,  corn,  and  cotton,  the  rich  produce 
of  the  valley  of  the  Nile  ;  its  scenery  is  monotonous,  and  the  traveler  soon 
wearies  by  the  universal  presence  of  the  squalid  mud  hovel  of  the  Fellah, 
the  naked  filthy  children,  and  the  clamorous,  greasy,  blear-eyed  population, 
whose  tattered  rags  seem  alive  with  vermin.     Our  traveler  on  this  occasioc 


BARTLETT  S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  151 

left  Alexandria  for  Cairo  by  a  steamer.  On  a  previous  visit,  he  went  in 
a  boat,  via  the  canal,  and  of  this  first  voyage  he  gives  a  particular 
description. 

On  arriving  at  Atfeh,  the  point  on  the  Nile  where  the  canal  terminates,  Mr. 
Bartlett  embarked  on  board  a  small  boat  for  Cairo.  The  sun  had  sunk;  a 
rosy  twilight  had  succeeded,  and  above  the  rich  level  of  the  Delta,  the  moon 
was  peeping.  "And  here,"  says  he,  "I  must  notice,  that  what  reconciles 
the  traveler  to  this  land  of  plagues,  is  not  alone  the  monumental  wonders  on 
the  banks  of  the  Nile,  but  the  beauty  of  the  climate,  the  luxuriousness  of  the 
air,  the  glorious  sunset,  and  serene  twilight,  reflected  in  the  noble  river,  and 
casting  over  the  hoary  remains  of  antiquity,  a  glow  and  gorgeousness  of  hue, 
which  heightens  their  melancholy  grandeur,  and  gilding  over  a  mud  village, 
until  its  tilth  and  misery  are  forgotten."  He  mounted  on  the  roof  of  the 
little  cabin,  as  the  broad  lateen  sail  swelled  smoothly  under  the  pressure  of 
the  wind.  The  boat,  with  her  long  wake  whitening  in  the  moon,  and  her 
Arab  crew  lying  upon  the  deck,  and  chanting  their  plaintive  songs,  flew 
rapidly  along  through  these  historic  waters  ;  the  noise  of  the  Fellahs,  and 
sounds  of  the  Darrabuka,  or  Egyptian  drum,  were  heard  loudly,  and  then 
again  died  away,  as  they  alternately  neared  or  receded  past  the  villages  on 
the  bank.  On  awakening  the  next  morning,  the  breeze  had  died  away,  and 
the  crew  were  engaged  in  tracking  or  towing  the  boat  on  the  bank,  to  the 
music  of  a  monotonous  chant.  Not  a  breath  of  air  stirred,  the  cloudless  sky 
was  reflected  upon  the  glassy  river,  and  the  heat,  as  the  day  advanced,  was 
overpowering. 

The  lower  Nile  is  at  first  amusing,  but  soon  tires  by  its  sameness.  The 
villages  of  mud  huts  embowered  in  palm  groves  that  line  the  bank,  and  their 
noisy  babbling  crowd  of  Fellahs  ;  the  glimpses  of  the  green  Nile  valley  and 
its  yellow  desert  boundary,  like  life  and  death  in  startling  juxtaposition  and 
contrast — the  picturesque  boats,  with  their  gay  colored  passengers — the  men 
paddling  on  rafts  loaded  with  watermelons  or  pottery — the  creaking  water- 
wheels  used  for  irrigation — all  form  a  sort  of  slow  moving  panorama,  which, 
seen  under  a  brilliant  sky,  interest  at  first  by  their  lively  novelty.  Three 
thousand  years  since,  how  infinitely  more  lively  must  have  been  the  scene  ! 
Then  innumerable  boats  thronged  the  river,  from  the  high  prowed  barges 
of  the  kings  and  nobles,  splendidly  painted,  adorned  with  hieroglyphics,  and 
with  richly  ornamented  sails,  to  the  ordinary  passage  boats  of  the  more 
humble  Egyptians.  Incessant  crowds  filled  the  banks  with  chariots  and  horse- 
men, and  thickly  spread  villages  with  elegant  temples  amid  groves  of  palm, 
and  extensive  villas  and  gardens  and  vineyards,  stretched  away  in  endless 
variety. 

The  river  to  whose  beneficent  agency  the  ancient  Egyptians  owed  their 
greatness,  was  regarded  as  peculiarly  sacred.  In  all  the  cities  certain 
priests  were  appointed  to  the  sole  service  of  this  deity,  the  god  Nilus  ;  and 
if  a  corpse  was  found  upon  the  sacred  shore,  the  nearest  town  was  obliged 
to  embalm  and  bury  it  with  every  mark  of  honor. 

When  in  the  season  of  the  annual  flood,  the  river  has  attained  its  full 
height,  very  singular  is  the  appearance  of  the  country.     The  vast  inundated 


!52  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

expanse  extends  to  the  desert  boundary  of  the  valley  ;  the  isolated  villages 
in  their  palm  groves,  are  scattered  about  like  floating  islands.  As  it  begins 
to  fall,  the  sower,  wading  into  the  mud,  literally  "  casts  his  bread  upon  the 
waters,"  which  cover  the  recent,  and  still  liquid  deposit.  When  the  water 
drains  off  from  particular  places,  a  carpet  of  the  most  vivid  green  immedi- 
ately follows  in  its  train,  and  the  face  of  the  land  glows  with  a  new-created 
beauty. 

After  passing  the  fork  of  the  Delta  where  the  two  branches  of  the  Nile 
join,  our  traveler  first  caught  sight  of  the  pyramids,  afar  off  on  the  borders 
of  the  Libyan  desert,  which,  like  the  first  distant  view  of  the  Alps,  produces 
a  sensation  never  to  be  forgotten.  On  the  opposite  or  east  bank  of  the 
river,  the  fantastic  minarets  of  Cairo,  a  perfect  ornamental  city,  built  by  the 
Arab  conquerors  ef  the  fallen  empire,  peeped  forth  from  amid  a  dense  mass 
of  palm  groves  and  gardens.  Arrived  at  Boulak,  the  port  of  Cairo,  our 
traveler  found  the  shores  lined  with  kiosks  and  coffee  houses,  full  of  indo- 
lent smokers,  and  crowds  of  camels  and  asses,  with  most  noisy  drivers. 
Vast  heaps  of  corn,  the  wealth  of  the  Nile  valley,  lay  upheaped  ready  for 
shipment,  warehousing  being  unnecessary  in  this  dry  soil  and  climate. 
Mounting,  on  a  donkey,  our  traveler  was  soon  in  "  the  Great  Al  Cairo,"  the 
city  of  Saladin,  and  of  the  Arabian  Nights. 

Cairo  stands  three  miles  east  of  the  Nile,  and  is  the  natural  center  of 
Egypt:  Heliopolis  was  five  miles  below  its  site,  and  Memphis  ten  above.  The 
city  is  one  of  the  most  completely  Arabian  now  existing.  Within,  though 
here  and  there  is  an  open  square,  it  is  one  maze  of  crooked  lanes ;  the  widest 
generally,  being  barely  sufficient  for  two  laden  camels  to  pass  abreast,  the 
narrowest  scarcely  one.  The  lower  parts  of  these  narrow  lanes  are  usually 
in  shadow.  Often  from  a  private  garden,  palm  trees  overhang  the  narrow 
passage.  The  style  of  the  nouses,  like  that  of  the  old  European  cities  of  the 
middle  ages,  consists  of  successive  stories  cf  latticed  windows,  overlying  one 
another  to  the  topmost  story,  till  in  the  gloomy  Jewish  quarter,  they  actually 
meet  and  interclasp  one  another.  These  lattices  are  devoid  of  glass,  and 
are  so  contrived  as  to  admit  a  free  view  of  the  passengers,  while  those  within 
are  concealed  from  the  most  prying  scrutiny.  Over  the  door,  is  generally 
some  inscription  of  a  religious  character.  Numerously  scattered  about  the 
streets  are  fountains,  a  peculiar  feature  of  oriental  cities.  The  crowd  is  in- 
cessant, and  the  variety  of  characters  and  costumes  very  curious.  The  bulk 
of  the  population  are  Moslem  Arabs,  a  few  Turks,  and  Jews,  many  Christian 
Copts,  and  a  mixture  of  Europeans.  In  one  place,  one  may  see  an  Arabian 
Fady  riding  an  immense  ass,  gayly  adorned  with  tassels  and  trappings,  and 
conducted  through  the  crowd  by  a  servant.  She  is  enveloped  in  a  silk 
wrapper,  her  whole  person  except  her  face,  which  is  half  covered  by  a  thin 
white  muslin  vail,  concealing  all  but  the  dark  lustrous  eyes.  It  is  often 
ludicrous  to  observe  the  studied  care  with  which  a  girl  covers  her  face  with 
the  fragment  of  a  vail,  while  she  raises  her  drapery  in  the  freest  manner 
possible.  Nothing  seems  regarded  by  the  Moslem  females  as  a  breach  of 
modesty,  if  the  face  be    covered,  which  to  show,  is  regarded  as   an  open 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT  153 

proof  of  the  abandonment  of  virtue.  Sometimes  }tou  encounter  a  whole  harem 
thus  mysteriously  equipped. 

One  is  astonished  at  the  immense  number  of  blind  persons  to  be  met  with 
in  these  streets,  and  indeed,  everywhere  in  Egypt.  It  has  been  variously 
attributed  to  the  continual  glare  of  the  sun,  the  subtile,  impalpable  dust, 
which  is  one  of  the  plagues  of  the  country,  and  to  the  transition  from  the 
dry  air  to  the  moist  vapors  of  the  Nile.  Moreover,  in  the  hope  of  escaping 
the  ruthless  conscription,  by  which  Mehemet  Ali  recruited  his  armies,  parents 
frequently  deprived  their  boys  of  one  of  their  eyes.  The  despotic  pacha 
was  not  thus  to  be  balked  of  his  prey — he  formed  two  regiments  of  one-eyea 
soldiers. 

The  Bazaars  of  Cairo,  as  in  all  oriental  cities,  are  the  great  gathering 
places  of  the  population,  the  head-quarters  for  news,  gossip,  and  intrigue  of 
the  town.  Through  their  dark  labyrinths,  a  dense  crowd  incessantly  pours. 
Each  trade  has  its  separate  quarter,  and  there  are  numerous  Khans,  01 
depots  for  the  reception  of  merchandise  ;  these  are  large  courts,  surrounded 
by  buildings  opening  from  the  bazaars,  and  defended  by  strong  gates  closed 
at  night.  To  wander  about  and  mingle  with  the  strange  and  turbulent  crowds, 
impresses  the  European  with  novel  sensations,  every  turn  presenting  a  fresh 
picture  of  oriental  life  and  manners. 

The  shopman  of  Cairo  does  but  little  business,  and  is  in  no  sort  of  a  hurry 
about  it.  Even  with  the  aid  of  pipe  and  prayers,  he  has  some  difficulty  tc 
kill  the  time.  Here  is  no  fear  of  "  tremendous  competition,"  and  everything 
jogs  on  in  its  old  way.  He  squats  cross-legged  on  his  little  carpet  before  his 
shop  door,  fills  his  pipe  and  puffs  away.  Does  a  customer  approach,  another 
pipe  is  filled  and  presented,  and  at  intervals  between  the  puffs,  the  trade  is 
slowly  carried  on.  The  trader  begins  by  asking  too  much,  the  purchaser  by 
offering  too  little,  and  by  the  time  the  pipe  is  ended,  the  difference  is  adjusted, 
and  the  bargain  concluded  "  in  the  name  of  God."  When  the  mournful 
cry  of  the  muezzin — the  watchman  who  reminds  the  faithful  that  the  hour 
of  prayer  has  come — thrills  from  the  gallery  of  some  neighboring  minaret, 
the  shopkeeper  pauses,  and  goes  through  with  the  appointed  round  of  devo- 
tion and  praise.  Of  that  modern  invention  the  newspaper,  he  is  profoundly 
ignorant,  but  at  intervals  he  chats  with  a  casual  passenger,  or  retails  with 
his  neighbor  the  rumors  of  the  passing  hour,  or  takes  a  quiet  nap  on  his 
shop-board.     Thus  he  contrives  to  while  away  the  hours  until  sundown. 

From  the  lofty  citadel  of  Cairo,  one  takes  in  at  a  view  the  whole  city,  with 
its  beautiful  mosques  and  their  counfrless  domes,  and  fantastic  minarets.  To 
the  east  in  a  secluded  valley  stand  the  long  ranges  of  the  tombs  of  the  Mame- 
luke sultans,  stretching  into  the  desert  toward  the  Red  Sea.  On  the  south 
extends  the  dense  verdure  of  the  Delta,  where  stood  Heliopolis,  the  most 
learned  city  of  Egypt,  and  there  yet  stands  its  obelisk,  upon  which  Abraham 
may  with  curious  eyes  have  gazed  as  he  entered  that  wonderful  land.  But 
to  the  westward  it  is,  that  the  chief  glories  of  the  scene  expand  ;  the  long 
range  of  the  dusky  pyramids  standing  in  sublime  serenity  above  the  site  of 
vanished  Memphis,  on    the  edge   of  the  boundless   Libyan  desert,  glorious 


154  JBARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  ElYPT. 

lelics  pointing  backward  from  an  antiquity  already  hoary,  through  a  long 
and  dim  vista  of  unknown  monarchs,  toward  the  unknown  orioin  of 
civilization. 

It  is  a  pleasant  ride  of  two  hours  from  Cairo  to  the  site  of  Heliopolis.  The 
traveler  is  surprised  to  find  that  it  stood  on  an  artificial  elevation.  Nothing 
remains  of  its  splendid  edifices  but  one  solitary  obelisk.  It  was  at  Heliopolis, 
it  is  supposed,  that  Moses  planned  the  liberation  of  his  countrymen  ;  here 
too,  or  in  the  vicinity,  Jeremiah  wrote  his  Lamentations  for  their  downfall. 
From  the  learned  priests  of  Heliopolis,  Plato,  who  studied  here,  is  believed  tc 
have  derived  the  doctrine  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and  of  a  future 
state  of  rewards  and  punishments. 

One  afternoon,  our  traveler,  with  some  companions,  set  forth  from  Cairo  tc 
visit  the  pyramids.  As  they  emerged  from  the  city,  they  encountered  one 
of  those  suffocating  tempests  of  hot  sand,  which  is  among  the  most  torment- 
ing plagues  of  the  country.  They  crossed  the  Nile  by  a  ferry,  and  struck 
the  edge  of  the  Libyan  desert  as  the  sun  was  sinking  behind  the  pyra- 
mids in  a  flash  of  glory.  A  whole  posse  of  Arabs  just  then  rushed  forth,  to 
force  upon  them  their  importunate,  annoying  services.  A  few  blows,  well 
laid  on  from  the  baton  of  their  guard,  a  well  armed  Janizary,  was  necessary 
to  disperse  them.  On  reaching  the  place  among  the  tombs  where  they 
intended  passing  the  night,  the  Sheik  of  the  neighboring  Arab  village  came 
forward,  and  they  agreed  with  him,  for  the  services  of  two  Arabs  as  guides, 
on  the  following  morning,  to  assist  them  in  the  ascent  of  the  great  pyramid. 

This  done,  they  sallied  forth  on  to  the  desert,  where  a  majestic  apparition 
suddenly  burst  upon  them,  whitened  by  the  light  of  the  rising  moon,  the 
enormous  head  and  shoulders  of  the  sphinx — that  famous  monument  with 
the  body  of  a  lion,  and  the  face  of  a  young  woman. — Its  features,  though 
mutilated,  yet  bore  an  expression  of  bland  repose,  and  immutable  serenity. 
Returning  to  their  nocturnal  abode  in  a  tomb,  scooped  out  of  the  rock  on 
which  the  great  pyramid  is  reared,  they  laid  down  upon  their  carpets,  and 
were  soon  wrapped  in  slumber. 

The  next  morning,  the  Arabs  awoke  them,  and  in  a  few  moments  they 
were  at  the  base  of  the  great  pyramid.  As  with  Niagara,  so  is  it  with  these 
marvels  of  creation  ;  it  is  not  until  you  stand  close  beneath  them,  that  you 
realize  their  overwhelming  magnitude  and  grandeur.  With  the  assistance 
of  the  Arabs,  they  ascended  the  countless  layers  of  masonry  until  panting 
and  palpitating  they  had  gained  the  summit. 

The  view  from  the  great  pyramid  is  as  wonderful  as  the  structure  itself. 
From  its  top  they  looked  down  upon  two  regions  different  as  life  itself.  Far 
as  the  eye  could  see,  stretched  away  the  glorious  valley,  the  eternal  fertility 
of  which  has  outlived  the  empires  founded  upon,  and  nourished  by,  its 
wonderful  soil.  And  everywhere  coming  up  to  its  green  edge,  like  an  impass- 
able barrier,  were  the  yellow  sands  of  the  boundless  Libyan  desert.  Over 
the  eastward  mountains  on  the  other  side  of  the  Nile,  the  sun  uprose  like  a 
ball  of  intense  fire.  As  it  climbed  the  sky,  the  distant  Nile  flushed  with  the 
growing  splendor.  The  smoke  curled  up  from  the  Arab  villages,  and  the 
barking  of  dogs,  the  sh^ll  voices  of  Fellahs,  and  the  lowing  of  cattle,  faintly 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  155 

ascended  to  their  lofty  post.  But  the  only  sound  that  arose  from  the  im- 
mense expanse  of  the  Libj7an  desert,  was  the  wailing  of  the  winds  over  its 
dead  surface  in  wild  and  mournful  music. 

For  2,000  years  the  builders  and  the  objects  of  the  pyramids,  were 
mysteries  which  baffled  all  the  wise  men  of  various  ages.  At  length  the 
discoveries  of  Champollion,  have  enabled  the  monuments  to  tell  their  own 
history,  to  disclose  their  objects,  and  the  names  of  their  builders.  Recent 
explorations  have  brought  to  light  no  less  than  sixty-nine  pyramids,  which 
are  proved  to  have  been  a  succession  of  royal  monuments;  the  size  of  each 
is  supposed  to  have  been  corresponding  to  the  length  of  the  reign  of  each 
builder,  who  added  every  year  a  fresh  layer  of  stones  until  his  decease, 
when  the  pyramid  was  finished  and  closed  up.  When  we  view  the  night  of 
immeasurable  antiquity  into  which  their  history  extends,  we  can  appreciate 
the  sublime  exclamation  of  Napoleon,  when  upon  the  plain  beneath,  prepared 
to  give  battle  to  the  Mameluke  cavalry;  "Soldiers!  from  the  summit  of 
these  monuments  forty  centuries  look  down  upon  you." 

The  entrance  to  the  great  pyramid  is  about  forty  feet  from  the  ground. 
Within  it  are  several  narrow  channels,  all  running  in  a  sloping  direction,  their 
united  length  being  many  hundred  feet.  They  conduct  to  several  apart- 
ments, the  most  prominent  of  which,  are  the  king's  and  the  queen's  cham- 
bers. The  last  is  under  the  very  top  of  the  pyramid,  and  beneath  it  is 
supposed  that  the  body  of  the  king  was  deposited  4,000  years  ago. 
The  king's  chamber,  the  principal  room,  is  entirely  constructed  of  red 
granite,  as  is  also  an  empty  sarcophagus,  or  stone  coffin,  which  there  reots 
upon  an  enormous  granite  block.  In  a  passage  above  this  chamber,  was 
discovered  an  engraved  tablet  in  hieroglyphical  characters,  bearing  the  name 
of  King  Suphis,  the  founder  of  the  pyramid. 

That  a  people  who  could  erect  such  monuments  as  the  pyramids  must 
have  arrived  at  a  btfffa  decree  of  civilization  and  refinement  is  a  natural  infer- 
ence,  and  one  fully  corroborated  by  the  remarkable  modern  discoveries 
among  the  numerous  surrounding  tombs.  Wilkinson  had  already  found 
representations  of  "the  trades,  boats,  repasts,  dancing,  agricultural  and 
farming  processes,  as  in  the  tombs  of  later  date,  at  Thebes  and  elsewhere,  and 
with  enumerations  in  figures  of  the  wealth  of  the  owner  of  the  tomb,  which 
like  that  of  Abraham,  consisted  principally  in  flocks  and  herds.  He  remarks, 
that  a  picture  of  a  butcher  sharpening  his  red  knife  on  a  blue  rod,  seems  to 
prove  the  use  of  steel.  Copper,  we  know  from  the  monumental  tablets  at 
those  places,  was  brought  by  the  kings  of  this  dynasty  from  the  neighboring 
peninsula  of  Sinai,  where  their  names  are  engraved  upon  the  rocks.  These 
mysterious  pyramids,  which  have  excited  the  conjectures  and  baffled  the  scru- 
tiny of  ages — even  the  empty  tombs  that  were  abandoned  to  the  bats  and 
jackals — seem  now,  by  the  Prometheus  wand  of  hieroglyphical  discovery, 
to  reveal  a  world  of  curious  information  as  to  minutest  details  of  a  civilization 
existing  some  four  thousand  years  ago. 

It  has  latterly  been  maintained  that  these  stupendous  monuments  were 
erected  by  gradual  and  easy  degrees,  by  paid  labor,  and  at  government  ex- 
pense ;  serving,   in   fact,   the   most  useful   and  beneficent  design  of  giving 


156  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

employment  to  the  poorer  classes  of  a  vast  agricultural  population,  confined  by 
nature  on  a  mere  strip  of  alluvial  soil,  when  thrown  idle  three  months  of  the 
year  by  tb'  inundation  of  the  Nile. 


CHAPTER   II. 


Dicscrip?  ic  ff  of  the  Egyptian  hieroglyphics—  the  Eosetta  Stone  —Mexican  hieroglyphics- 
Chinese  do.  —Dancing  girls  —Morning  on  the  Upper  Nile  —Villages  — Tombs  of  Beni 
Hassan — Boatmen  of  the  Nile — Siout — Slave  boat — Melancholy  spectacle — Temple  of 
Dendera— Keneh— Ruins  of  Thebes— their  vastness— Temples  of  Carnac  and  Luxor— Tho 
Vocal  Memnon — Metropolis  of  Death — Process  of  Embalming — Address  to  the  Mummy 
at  Bolzoni's  exhibition — Esneh — Edfou — Splendor  of  Ancient  Egypt— Suez  Canal. 

The  earliest  and  simplest  mode  of  recording  events  seems  to  have  been 
that  of  hieroglyphics  or  picture  writing,  which  is  a  rude  delineation  of  objects, 
such  as  that  by  which  the  Mexican  scouts  informed  their  master  Montezuma 
of  the  arrival  of  Cortez  and  his  band,  by  sketching  the  appearance  of  the 
Spaniards,  their  ships,  horses,  and  fire-arms.  But  picture  writing  becomes 
too  cumbersome  and  imperfect  a  process  for  recording  facts,  and  some  method 
must  be  contrived  for  shortening  the  task.  This  is  effected  at  first,  perhaps, 
by  sketching  only  a  part  for  the  whole,  such  as  a  scaling  ladder  to  represent 
a  siege,  and  flying  arrows  to  indicate  a  battle,  etc.  The  next  step  is  to  invent 
symbols,  in  which  one  thing  is  put  for  another,  from  some  supposed  or  fancied 
resemblance.  Thus,  an  eye,  with  a  scepter  underneath,  denotes  the  king  or 
kingly  power  ;  a  hawk's  head,  surmounted  by  a  disc,  represents  the  sun,  etc. 
By  a  combination  of  such  symbols  an  event  may  be  recorded,  and  will  pre- 
sent itself  to  the  mind  of  the  beholder,  who  has  the  key  of  the  system,  with- 
out the  assistance  of  words. 

Until  within  the  last  thirty  years  the  sculptures  and  paintings  which  so  pro- 
fusely cover  Egyptian  monuments,  were  entirely  unintelligible,  because  the 
key  to  their  explanation,  that  is,  the  power  of  reading  the  hierog'yphical 
inscriptions  everywhere  accompanying  them,  was  wanting.  By  degrees,  a 
nearer  approach  was  made  to  this  key  by  the  discovery  of  the  famous  Rosetta 
stone,  now  in  the  British  museum.  This  stone,  found  by  the  French  at  Ro- 
setta, a  village  in  Egypt,  is  a  yard  long,  and  nearly  as  broad.  It  contains 
three  inscriptions.  The  first  inscription  is  in  pure  hieroglyphic  characters, 
the  second  in  demotic  characters,  a  kind  of  written  hieroglyphics,  and  the 
third  and  last  is  in  Greek.  From  the  last,  or  Greek  inscription,  it  appears  that 
the  three  inscriptions,  either  wholly  or  substantially,  mean  the  same  thing, 
and  form  a  royal  decree,  which  was  ordered  to  be  sculptured.  According 
to  the  Greek  inscription,  it  appears  also,  that  the  stone  was  erected  in  the 
reign  of  Ptolemy  Epiphanes,  (a.  c.  194,)  whose  benevolence  it  describes,  and 
enumerates  his  victories,  and  the  principal  transactions  of  his  reign. 

The  inscriptions  are  a  good  deal  mutilated,  particularly  the  hieroglyph ical; 
but  they  are  still  sufficiently  distinct  to  allow  the  characters  on  the  first  and 
second  inscriptions  to  be  compared  with  each  other  and  the  Greek.  As  the 
discovery  of  this  stone  presented  to  the  learned  the  first  opportunity  of 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  157 

viewing  the  Greek  language  along  with  the  Egyptian  written  language— a 
known  with  an  unknown  writing — great  hopes  were  entertained  that  a  nearly 
complete  key  would  thereby  be  obtained  to  the  deciphering  of  the  nume- 
rous monuments  of  ancient  Egypt. 

The  Greek  inscription  thus  being  proved  to  be  a  translation,  the  attention 
of  learned  men  was  next  directed  with  intense  earnestness  to  the  second  or  de- 
motic one.  It  appears,  however,  from  the  investigations  of  Dr.  Young  and 
Champollion,  whose  attention  has  been  deeply  engrossed  with  this  subject, 
that  the  Greek  does  not  faithfully  represent  the  demotic  inscription,  but 
merely  gives  its  substance.  Hence,  the  great  difficulties  which  involve  this 
subject,  and  which  from  that  time  to  this  baffles  the  investigations  of  the  sci- 
entific. Yet  many  of  these  secrets  have  been  unraveled,  and  the  time  may 
come  when  the  vast  fund  of  information  which  the  ancient  Egyptians  sculp- 
tured with  so  much  labor  will  be  thrown  open  to  the  perusal  of  the  modern 
world. 

According  to  Champollion,  the  hieroglyphical  writing  of  the  Egyptians 
consists  of  three  different  species  of  characters. 

First.  The  hieroglyphic,  properly  so  called,  in  which  the  representation 
of  the  object  conveys  the  idea  of  the  object  itself,  either  entire  or  in  a  short- 
ened form.  Many  words  were  thus  expressed,  chiefly  those  denoting  com- 
mon visible  objects.  These  are  termed,  by  Champollion,  figurative,  and  are 
divided  into  figurative  proper,  figurative  conventional, — that  is  agreed  upon  as 
figurative — and  figurative  abridged. 

Second.  Ideas  represented  by  visible  objects,  used  as  symbols  ;  and  these 
are  generally  employed  in  the  expression  of  abstract  ideas  or  complex  matters. 
For  instance,  such  as  representing  a  tumult  by  the  picture  of  a  man  throwing 
arrows ;  adoration,  by  a  censer  containing  burning  incense,  etc.  In  some  of 
these  the  connection  between  the  thing  to  be  related  and  the  object  selected 
to  depict  it  are  easily  seen  ;  in  other  cases,  the  connection  depends  on  associa- 
tions, not  understood  by  us,  and  which  therefore  we  cannot  trace. 

Third.  The  last  species  of  hieroglyphics  consists  of  phonetic  characters,  in 
which  the  sign  represents  not  an  object  but  a  sound.  The  honor  of  the 
recent  progress  made  in  the  explanation  of*  the  hieroglyphical  writing  is 
divided  between  the  English  orientalist,  Dr.  Youn^,  and  the  Frenchman, 
Champollion  ;  but  the  latter  appears  to  have  had  no  small  share  in  the  original 
discoveries,  as  well  as  to  have  carried  the  science  to  a  high  degree  of 
cultivation. 

The  walls  and  monuments,  and  statues  of  the  ruined  cities  of  central 
America  are  covered  with  hieroglyphics.  These  were,  doubtless,  sculptured 
at  a  very  early  day,  as  even  the  existence  of  these  ruins  were  unknown  at  the 
time  of  the  conquest  of  Cortez.  The  workmanship  in  some  of  these  monu- 
ments is  considered  equal  to  the  finest  Egyptian  sculpture  ;  but  in  others  it  is 
more  rude.  Whence  came  the  race  who  built  them  is  a  mystery  ;  but  analo- 
gies have  been  descried  in  their  works  to  those  of  the  most  ancient  people  of 
the  old  world. 

The  Chinese  writing  was  originally  wholly  ideographic  ;  i.  e.  expressing  ideas 
wholly  by  symbols,  which  answers  to  the  second  class  of  Egyptian  hierog\y 


158  BARTLETTS  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

phics,  with  some  admixture  of  the  first.     But  in   the  process   of  time    the 
greater  part  of  the  characters  have  become  simply  phonetic. 

Our  traveler  from  Cairo  proceeded  up  the  Nile  en  route  for  Thebes,  in  a 
boat  which  he  had  hired.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day  he  was 
attracted  by  the  sound  of  music,  and  perceived  an  assemblage  of  orientals 
under  a  gourd  on  the  river  bank,  and  rising  now  and  then  over  their  heads 
the  braceleted  arms  and  castanets  of  the  famous  Ghawazee  or  Egyptian 
dancing-girls.  He  went  ashore  to  witness  the  spectacle.  Around  a  platform 
grouped  a  number  of  officers  of  the  Pacha.  The  most  part  of  them  had 
grown  gray  under  a  system  ojf  cruel  oppression,  of  which  they  were  the 
agents.  Their  faces  were  grave,  hard,  and  cruel  lines  were  about  their  eyes 
and  mouths,  and  they  rarely  moved  a  muscle,  but  when  some  little  voluptuous 
bycplay  of  the  dancers,  specially  addressed  to  themselves,  brought  a  hideously 
sensual  smile  across  their  pallid  faces.  They  occupied  the  seats  of  honor, 
while  behind  them,  crowded  together,  Fellahs,  boatmen,  women  and  children. 
The  dancing-girls  seemed  half  overcome  with  the  heat,  excitement,  and  raki, 
(a  liquor  made  from  the  palm-tree,)  which  an  old  white-bearded  cafe-keeper 
administered  at  the  end  of  every  dance.  The  dance  at  first  was  modestly 
coquettish,  it  became  by  degrees  the  excitement  of  wanton  frenzy,  and  at 
length  died  away  in  languor.  When  our  traveler  first  ascended  the  platform 
they  were  merely  in  lazy,  and  somewhat  graceful  attitudes,  clicking  their  cas- 
tanets, and  exchanging  speaking  glances  with  the  old  hoary  sinners  around  ; 
but  as  he  seated  himself  one  of  them  saluted  him  with  such  a  gesture  of  an 
original  and  unequivocal  character,  as  brought  forth  shouts  of  applause  from 
old  and  young,  crimsoned  his  cheeks  with  the  blush  of  offended  modesty,  and 
made  him  wish  himself  anywhere  but  there.  None  were  here  ashamed  openly 
to  applaud  what  is  considered  more  decent  to  vail  in  our  more  refined  coun- 
try, where  the  opera  dancer  is  skilled  in  throwing  a  still  more  dangerous 
charm  of  mingled  grace  and  piquancy  over  the  same  idea,  which,  in  all  its 
unvailed  gros&ness,  forms  the  characteristic  expression  of  the  Egyptian 
dance. 

The  next  morning  upon  the  Nile  was  most  delicious.  Our  traveler  break- 
fasted under  the  awning  outside  of  his  cabin.  "  There  are  hours, "  says  he, 
"  which  one  can  never  forget,  into  which  the  enjoyment  generally  spread 
over  life  seems  concentrated  ;  among  these  few  are  more  happy  than  thoso 
in  which  we  realize  another  climate,  the  air,  soil,  and  vegetation  being 
totally  different,  all  inspiring  new  and  delicious  sensations.  Such  was  this 
morning  upon  the  Nile.  There  was  such  a  broad,  lustrous  tranquillity  in  the 
cloudless,  purple  heaven,  shed  upon  the  noble  stream,  coming  down  through 
its  eternal  valley  in  a  full,  majestic,  glassy  current ;  the  tall  stems  of  the 
palms,  grouping  to  the  very  edge  of  the  river,  lifted  their  burden  of  gently 
rustling  fans  so  serenely  into  the  summer  air,  with  their  glowing  clusters  of 
yellow  dates,  just  ripening,  their  rich  gum  catching  the  morning  beams  ;  and 
the  level  green  valley,  variegated  with  crops,  spread  away  so  quietly  to  its 
desert  boundary,  its  verdure  rendered  tenfold  more  beautiful  by  contrast  with 
the  yellow  sands.  I  leaped  ashore,  and  walked  along  the  river  bank ;  the 
palm-trees  and  groves  of  sont,  a  species  of  acacia,  were  thronged  by  lniume* 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  \j\) 

rable  birds  darting  about  the  surface  of  the  water ;  and  so  happy  and  joy 
Suspiring  is  the  climate,  that  the  poor,  enslaved  Fellah  for  a  while  forgett 
his  care,  and  mingles  his  songs  with  theirs,  as  he  leaves  his  village  to  repair 
to  the  labors  of  the  field.  Strolling  through  the  palm-groves,  I  reached 
Bibbe,  a  considerable  village,  standing  on  a  high  bank  above  the  river.  The 
villages  in  Egypt,  very  pretty  at  a  distance,  are  far  from  answering  to  the 
luxuriant  appearance  of  the  country,  and  a  brief  inspection  reveals  the 
degraded  and  miserable  state  of  the  inhabitants.  Vast  mounds  of  dust  and 
offal  are  usually  collected  at  the  outskirts,  the  favorite  resort  of  dogs,  flies, 
and  filthy  children  often  quite  naked,  who  assail  the  traveler,  the  one  with 
loud  barkings,  and  the  other  with  deafening  cries  for  beckshish.  The  dwell- 
ings are  but  a  collection  of  mud  hovels  ;  but  the  residence  of  the  "  Sheik 
belled,"  or  head  of  the  village,  has  usually  a  little  more  architectural  pre- 
tensions, though  confined  to  the  same  material.  This  functionary  is  often 
tolerably  well  dressed,  but  the  great  bulk  of  the  Fellahs  have  scarcely  a  rag 
to  cover  them,  and  the  women's  whole  clothing  consists  of  a  Ions:  blue  robe, 
grievously  worn  and  tattered.  Enter  one  of  their  wretched  dwellings, — there 
are  but  a  few  vessels  for  food  and  water,  and  the  around  serves  for  chair  and 
table  ;  yet,  as  in  such  a  climate  it  is  certain  that  the  wants  of  the  body  are  far 
less  sensibly  felt. 

Beside  the  dwelling  of  the  Sheik,  the  mosque,  with  its  minaret,  is  the  only 
feature  of  the  village.  I  have  been  amused  at  the  grotesque  spectacle  pre- 
sented at  one  of  these  villages  at  high  noon,  when  the  whole  population, 
rational  and  irrational,  seems  to  take  the  river  'en  masse.'  The  buffaloes, 
camels,  asses,  and  sheep  crowd  down  to  the  brink  ;  old  men  are  seen  sitting 
apart  gravely  by  the  edge,  engaged  in  an  elaborate  purification  of  their  per- 
sons, without  a  particle  of  clothing;  naked  children  are  dabbling  and  washing 
one  another,  and  women  swimming  about  in  the  stream  ;  while  those  who 
have  already  profited  by  the  cleansing  agency  of  the  flood,  are  sitting  apart 
deeply  involved  in  depopulating  their  ragged  garments  before  venturing  again 
to  resume  them." 

Proceeding  on  his  voyage,  he  reached  the  celebrated  tombs  of  Beni  Hassan, 
situated  high  up  on  the  side  of  the  hills  which  ascend  from  the  river  bank. 
Their  architecture  is  simple  and  elegant,  and  is  probably  that  from  which  the 
Grecian  Doric  was  derived.  The  walls  of  one  which  Mr.  Bartlett  entered  is 
covered  with  an  inexhaustible  variety  of  paintings,  showing,  w.  h  surprising 
distinctness,  the  domestic  manners  of  that  remote  period.  They  embrace  all 
the  processes  of  agriculture,  from  sowing  to  harvest,  with  fowling,  fishing 
and  hunting  scenes  ;  the  different  trades  and  occupations,  and  even  amuse- 
ments, dancing,  wrestling,  playing  at  ball,  and  even  the  inflicting  of  punish- 
ment by  the  bastinado.  Here  you  see,  as  on  the  bank  of  the  Nile  at  the  pre- 
sent day,  peasants  proceeding  to  market,  bearing  their  burdens,  and  driving 
their  cattle  hefore  them,  and  the  different  craft  on  the  river,  minutely 
depicted. 

When  the  wind  lulled  away,  as  it  frequently  did  on  their  voyage,  the  men 
were  obliged  to  track  or  drag  the  boat  against  the  current,  a  most  toilsome 
process.     The  boatmen  on  the  Nile,  like  all  Egyptian  Arabs,  are  pious  in 


160  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT 

thv-ir  way.  Their  mutual  salutations  are  all  prayers.  "  Peace  be  unto  you!" 
"  God  be  with  you  !"  "  May  God  receive  you  into  paradise,"  are  common 
expressions,  interchanged  between  passing  crews,  and  they  never  pass  each 
other  without  saluting  one  another.  The  songs  with  which  they  encourage 
each  other  as  they  labor  are  in  a  similar  strain  of  invocation,  and  often  have 
a  very  beautiful  effect.  The  Iieis,  or  headman,  leads  the  air,  and  the  boat- 
men sing  in  chorus,  increasing  in  fervor  in  the  vigor  of  their  labors,  almost  to 
frenzy  with  the  difficulties  to  be  surmounted. 

In  a  few  days  they  reached  Siout,  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt,  some  two 
hundred  miles  above  Cairo.  It  is  a  considerable  town,  with  handsome 
mosques,  and  richly  picturesque  environs.  It  is  the  resort  of  caravans  of 
slaves,  who,  after  being  hunted  down  in  their  native  country  in  the  far  inte- 
rior, are  brought  here  across  the  desert.  It  has  a  still  more  infamous  dis- 
tinction, as  being  the  chief  place  where  the  black  guardians  of  the  harem 
are  deprived,  by  a  torturing  process,  of  their  manhood.  One  shudders  with 
horror  at  such  a  state  of  society  as  demands  such  atrocities.  And  as  evi- 
dence of  the  degraded  state  of  Christianity  here,  its  Coptic  professors  are 
agents  in  these  horrible  violations. 

At  Girgeh  a  village  farther  up  the  river,  he  found  a  vessel  laden  with 
female  slaves  for  the  Cairo  market,  mostly  negro  girls,  with  a  few  specimens 
of  Abyssinian  beauty,  much  esteemed  by  the  voluptuaries  of  the  capital. 
"  The  principal  Jellab  or  slave  dealer,"  says  Mr.  Bartlett,  "  was  seated  on  the 
shore,  apparently  waiting  the  chance  of  a  purchaser.  A  number  of  negro 
girls  were  lounging  about  upon  the  sunny  shore,  reveling  in  the  grateful  heat, 
while  others  sat  upon  the  boat.  They  were  fine  well-made  creatures,  glossy 
as  satin,  and  in  excellent  condition  ;  for  the  most  part  lively,  careless  chat- 
terers, and  rather  bearing  out  the  accounts  of  some  travelers  of  warm 
imaginations,  who  represented  them  as  purely  sensual,  and  always  anxious 
to  attract  a  purchaser  as  soon  as  possible.  Whatever  suffering  they  might 
have  endured  in  the  circumstance  of  their  original  capture,  they  were  to  all 
appearance  taken  very  great  care  of.  A  fat,  flabby  old  Turk  now  came 
waddling  down  from  Girgeh,  and  the  Abyssinians  were  produced  and  shown. 
They  did  not,  however,  answer  his  expectations,  in  fact,  I  had  myself  seen 
far  handsomer  in  the  slave  bazaar  at  Cairo,  and  he  fell  back  upon  the  negro 
girls.  A  group  was  now  formed  around  one  whom  I  had  not  noticed  before, 
and  who  presented  in  her  reluctant,  downcast  manner,  a  singular  contrast  to 
the  rest.  Her  dress  consisted  merely  of  a  string  of  leathern  thongs  around 
the  loins,  but  a  large  wrapper  was  thrown  loosely  over  her.  The  slave-dealer 
placed  her,  like  a  connoisseur,  and  proceeded  to  dwell  upon  her  '  points,' 
but  she  did  not  somehow  tell  upon  the  sensual  fantasy  of  the  old  Turk  :  he 
was  provoked  by  her  air  of  dejection,  and  rudely  thrust  up  her  declining 
head  ;  next,  with  a  cautious  manipulation  from  head  to  foot,  proceeded,  in 
jockey  phrase,  to  ascertain  her  soundness  ;  and,  finally,  hastily  whipping  off 
the  scanty  covering  from  the  poor  shrinking  creature,  he  proceeded  to  satisfy, 
with  a  hasty  glance,  the  last  and  most  important  particulars  of  his  curiosity. 
The  slave-dealer  looked  up  and  smiled  with  an  unanswerable  air,  but  the  old 
Turk  looke  i  dubious   and  unsatisfied ;  the  crowd  of  callous  and  laughing 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  161 

spectators  were,  as  usual,  divided  in  opinion,  while  the  defenseless  subject  ol 
their  gaze  and  controversy  stood  cowering  before  them  with  an  air  of  abject, 
hopeless  despondency.  One  might  see  that,  although  of  a  race  supposed  to 
be  comparatively  destitute  of  feeling,  nature  had  made  her  of  a  mould  too  fine 
for  such  rude  handling  ;  perhaps  some  home-remembrance  came  across  her 
mind,  for  a  more  melancholy  expression  I  never  witnessed  in  a  human 
creature.  Finally,  the  old  Turk  declined  to  purchase  her,  and  she  walked 
listlessly  back  again  to  her  corner  in  the  hold  of  the  vessel." 

It  being  the  season  of  the  inundation,  our  traveler  did  not  meet  with  what 
is  at  other  times  an  every-day  occurence,  viz  :  the  sight  of  crocodiles.  In 
some  parts  of  Egypt  this  animal  was  worshiped  as  a  god.  They  were  tamea 
by  the  ancient  Egyptians,  who  made  pets  of  them,  decorating  them  with  ear- 
rings and  bracelets,  and  pampering  them  with  roast  meat  and  wine. 

The  next  point  of  interest  reached,  was  the  temple  of  Dendera,  the  most 
beautiful  in  Egypt.  On  entering,  one  is  impressed  by  the  peculiar  emotions 
t»roduced  by  Egyptian  architecture — a  feeling  of  awful,  gloomy  sublimity, 
>rhich  is  heightened  by  the  sculptures  and  hieroglyphics,  which  cover  the 
oralis  in  mute,  mysterious  meaning.  The  twenty-four  gigantic  columns  of 
;he  portico,  have  sculptured  upon  each  in  immense  proportions,  "the  human 
face  divine."  They  look  down  upon  one  with  a  steadfastness  of  expression, 
that  awes  the  beholder,  as  if  in  the  presence  of  genii  from  a  realm  of 
enchantment. 

The  great  portico,  comparatively  a  very  modern  addition,  was  added  in 
the  reign  of  Tiberius.  We  cannot  but  admire  the  zeal  of  the  Egyptians,  by 
whom  this  work  was  then  finished,  who  denying  themselves  all  beyond  the 
coarsest  food  and  clothing,  thought  a  noble,  massive  temple,  for  the  worship 
of  the  gods,  one  of  the  first  necessaries  of  life. 

The  temple  at  Dendera,  was  dedicated  to  the  goddess  Athor,  the  Venus 
of  the  Egyptians  ;  but  it  would  seem,  from  the  reputation  which  the  town  of 
Keneh,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  bears,  that  she  had  simply  crossed 
to  the  opposite  bank,  to  establish  her  peculiar  worship,  with  an  absence  of  all 
mystery,  and  even  decency,  by  day  as  by  night,  among  the  thousand  mud- 
hovels   of   the  modern  town,  which  is  the  most  dissolute  place   in   Egypt. 

The  overland  journey  to  India  was  formerly  performed  over  this  ancient 
route,  which  was  an  immense  thoroughfare  in  the  days  when  Europe  was  the 
home  of  barbarians.  Now  the  railroad  from  Alexandria  to  Suez  has  changed 
all  this.  Keneh  was  also  the  starting  point  for  Mahometan  pilgrims,  for  a 
three  days'  march  across  the  desert  to  the  Red -Sea,  on  their  way  to  the  tomb 
of  the  Prophet,  at  Mecca.  It  is  difficult  to  conjecture  how  the  place  became 
so  disreputable.  "  Some  people/'  says  a  reverend  traveler,  "may  think  that 
its  being  a  halting-place  for  the  pilgrims,  is  almost  enough  to  account  for  the 
mystery,  since  '  perils,'  as  Bacon  remarks,  *  commonly  ask  to  be  paid  in 
pleasures.' 

At  Keneh,  our  traveler  was  waited  upon  by  a  portly  official,  who  was  very 

complimentary,  and  begged  to  know  if  there  was  anything  he  could  do  for 

him.    Upon  this  he  complained  of  the  misconduct  of  the  Reis  and  his  sailors, 

on  which  the  other  very  politely  offered  to  have  them  bastinadoed,  but  this 

11 


162*  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

was  respectfully  declined.  He  then  earnestly  invited  Mi.  Bartlett  to  sup 
with  him,  when  he  should  be  entertained  with  some  of  the  more  peculiar  ex- 
hibitions of  the  dancing  girls  ;  but  this  delicate  compliment  to  his  taste  and 
morals,  was  also  declined.  Next,  he  received  the  honor  of  a  visit  from 
some  Italian  doctors,  in  the  service  of  the  Pacha,  who  beside  the  desire  of 
conversing  with  a  passing  stranger,  have  an  eye  to  a  little  private  practice, 
and  generally  add  a  trifle  to  their  slender  pay,  by  the  infirmities  of  European 
travelers,  or  the  peccadilloes  of  Mahometan  pilgrims. 

Our  traveler  was  glad  to  leave  this  wicked  place,  and  full  of  glowing 
anticipations,  the  sails  were  spread  for  the  ruins  of  Thebes.  Next  day  about 
noon,  the  immense  plain  of  Thebes  began  to  open  to  view,  and  the  eye  to  catch 
glimpses  of  its  distant  ruins.  The  expanse  is  so  vast,  miles  intervening 
between  the  different  groups  of  ruin,  that  a  sense  of  void  and  emptiness  was 
substituted  for  that  powerful  and  lively  effect  he  anticipated  upon  the  first 
view  of  the  ruined  city.  The  exhausted  sailors  fastened  the  boat  to  a 
decayed  tree.  The  plain  lay  around  in  breathless  silence,  and  sultry  heat ; 
the  mountains  colorless  as  if  calcined  ;  the  distant  temples,  like  blackened 
wrecks  of  a  conflagration  ;  the  palms  smitten  by  the  sun,  scarcely  rustled 
their  languid  leaves  ;  the  vegetation  was  parched,  the  over-arching  sky  of 
intense  oppressive  brightness,  and  over  this  scene  of  another  age,  the  silence 
of  death  reigned.  For  a  long  time,  not  a  sound  was  heard.  Suddenly,  a 
throng  of  guides,  donkey  boys,  and  itinerant  tradesmen  in  curiosities,  at- 
tracted from  their  holes  in  the  distant  cliffs,  by  a  glimpse  of  the  boat,  made 
their  appearance.  Picturesque  in  aspect,  with  heavy  features,  and  dark 
faces,  turban  on  head,  and  enveloped  in  gay  shawls,  gracefully  arranged 
over  their  long  brown  robes,  they  rushed  on  board,  pressing  upon  their 
visitors  a  strange  medley  of  bits  of  mummy  cases,  scraps  of  papyrus,  testi- 
monials from  former  travelers,  coins,  inscriptions,  etc.  Here  was  the  very 
source  and  center  of  the  world's  civilization.  The  Trojan  war  commences 
Grecian  history,  seven  hundred  years  after  Abraham  removed  from  the  plains  of 
Chaldea.  But  when  this  patriarch  of  the  Hebrews  led  his  flocks  to  drink  of 
the  waters  of  the  Nile,  Egypt  had  long  been  a  highly  civilized  nation.  While 
the  rest  of  the  world  were  living  in  hovels,  or  in  rude  habitations  of  the 
most  primitive  structure,  Egypt  possessed  cities,  immense  in  size,  and  crowded 
with  palaces  and  temples,  obelisks  and  monuments,  grand  in  conception,  and 
of  a  vastness  and  splendor,  which  puts  at  defiance  the  rivalry  of  modern 
wealth,  and  modern  art. 

Passing  up  the  Nile  still  further,  the  Temple  of  Carnac  arrests  the  pro- 
gress of  the  traveler,  as  he  fixes  his  gaze  upon  the  grandest  structure  in 
Thebes,  or  in  the  world.  Upon  this  vast  temple,  more  than  three  miles  in 
circuit,  the  Egyptians  appear  to  have  lavished  all  their  magnificence.  The 
Temple  is  approached  by  a  long  avenue  of  sphinxes,  once  six  hundred  in 
number,  nearly  three  feet  apart,  but  now  reduced  to  fifty,  sculptured  out  of 
the  hardest  stone,  and  highly  polished.  This  avenue  terminates  in  a  suc- 
cession of  lofty  portals,  three  hundred  feet  apart,  with  colossal  statues  in- 
terposed between.     The  vast  temple  was  everywhere  covered  with  the  finest 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  163 

sculptures,  representing  the  succession  of  races  who  had  possessed  the 
country,  and  the  various  dynasties  which  had  ruled  its  people.  What  now 
appears  to  the  traveler  a  mass  of  confused  ruins,  presented  in  the  days  of  its 
splendor  a  glorious  succession  of  colossal  statues,  obelisks,  vast  halls, 
portals,  gates,  and  whole  forests  of  columns,  ranged  in  regular  succession 
and  perfect  harmony  with  each  other.  The  material  employed  was  various, 
sometimes  a  beautiful  and  compact  marble,  brilliantly  white  and  lustrous  was 
used,  sometimes  immense  stones  of  variegated  hues,  derived  additional  beauty 
from  the  rose- colored  or  the  black  marbles  of  Syene.  Everything  is  on  a 
grander  scale  than  elsewhere  in  Egypt.  Among  the  obelisks  adorned  with  rich 
sculptures  is  one,  the  loftiest  ever  erected  by  the  hand  of  man.  A  solid 
block  of  the  hardest  stone,  it  rears  its  head  ninety-one  feet  from  its  base.  The 
principal  hall  is  three  hundred  and  eighteen  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and 
fifty-nine  feet  broad,  a  hundred  and  thirty-four  columns,  seventy  feet  high 
and  eleven  feet  in  diameter  still  support  the  roof,  while  a  long  avenue  of 
others  have  all,  except  one,  fallen  down,  and  lie  on  the  ground,  ranged  in 
their  primitive  order.  The  very  colors  with  which  the  sculptures  were  ori- 
ginally adorned,  still  remain  in  their  primitive  luster.  No  other  earthly 
object  is  so  capable  of  improving  the  mind  of  the  beholder.  When  Napo- 
leon's army  first  caught  sight  of  the  immense  ruin,  they  stood  still,  struck  as 
it  were  with  an  electric  shock.  To  Beizoni.  it  appeared  as  though  he  was 
entering  a  city  of  departed  giants. 

The  temple  of  Luxor  is  in  beauty  what  that  of  Carnac  is  in  grandeur. 
Each  in  its  way  surpasses  all  else  the  world  can  show.  Two  obelisks  of  solid 
Syenite  granite,  each  eighty  feet  in  height,  form  the  entrance.  Behind  these 
stood  two  lofty  statues  forty  feet  high,  now  much  defaced  and  sunk  in  sand, 
two  hundred  columns  of  different  dimensions,  still  stand  within  the  temple, 
while  obelisks,  walls,  and  every  apartment  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of 
sculpture,  upon  which  the  tooth  of  time  seems  scarcely  to  have  made  an  im- 
pression in  more  than  forty  centuries.  One  of  the  magnificent  obelisks  al 
the  entrance,  was  given  by  Mehemet  Ali  a  few  years  ago,  to  Louis  Philippe, 
and  now  stands  in  the  very  spot  in  Paris  where  the  unfortunate  Louis  XVIth, 
and  the  more  unfortunate  Marie  Antoinette,  lost  their  lives. 

In  the  British  Museum  in  London,  is  the  head  of  one  of  the  statues  of  the 
Memnonium,  which  was  removed  by  the  care  of  Beizoni — that  early  traveler 
in  this  land  of  mysteries — and  which  in  its  perfect  beauty,  attests  the  skill  in 
sculpture  attained  by  the  ancient  Egyptians.  This  is  the  smallest  of  the 
colossal  figures,  which  once  adorned  the  entrance  to  the  temple,  now  so 
mutilated  and  covered  by  the  sand  of  the  adjoining  desert,  as  hardly  to  be 
perceived  by  the  eye  of  a  casual  observer. 

One  of  these  statues  has  been  known  for  ages,  by  the  name  of  the  "  vocal 
Memnon."  Daily  as  the  sun  rose  above  the  Arabian  mountains,  and  touched 
its  lips  with  light,  responsive  sounds  were  heard  from  the  gigantic  figure. 
But  the  voice  of  stone  has  long  been  silent,  and  modern  visitors  wait  in  vain 
for  the  mystic  utterance.  Explanations  of  this  wonder  of  Egypt  have  been 
frequently  sought  in  natural  causes.     An  easier    solution  of   the    difficulty 


154  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

may  be  found,  in  the  skill  of  an  artful  and  ingenious  priesthood,  who  seemed 
not  to  have  been  wholly  ignorant  of  devices  still  practiced  in  the  heart  of 
sivilized  and  christian  Europe. 

When  the  Roman  Emperor  Hadrian  visited  Thebes,  his  queen,  disappointed 
at  not  hearing  the  musical  sounds,  uttered  threats  of  the  emperor's  dis- 
pleasure, which  speedily  brought  the  stone  impostor  to  his  senses.  Now 
that  the  priesthood  of  ancient  Egypt,  and  the  people  whom  they  deceived, 
have  long  ago  passed  away,  Memnon  utters  no  longer  her  solemn  notes. 
Some  idea  of  the  vast  magnitude  of  this  mass  of  stone,  may  be  formed  from  a 
calculation  which  makes  its  weight  when  unmutilated,  to  have  been  nearly  a 
thousand  tons,  the  breadth  of  the  figure  across  the  shoulders,  more  than 
twenty-two  feet,  and  the  distance  from  the  neck  to  the  elbow  over  fourteen 
feet.  The  people  who  wrought  these  gigantic  marvels  of  architecture  and 
art,  still  lie  near  the  scene  of  their  labor  and  their  pride,  awaiting  the  resur- 
rection morn. 

In  all  oriental  nations,  peculiar  honors  have  always  been  paid  to  the  re- 
mains of  the  dead.  But  Egypt  surpasses  the  world  in  monumental  works. 
The  tombs  of  Thebes,  are  the  metropolis  of  death.  The  Libyan  mountains, 
in  the  rear  of  the  city,  for  several  miles  present  a  perpendicular  face  of  rock, 
three  to  four  hundred  feet  in  height.  Galleries  and  passage  ways  ever}'- 
where  penetrate  these  mountains,  the  entrances  to  which,  are  purposely  made 
narrow,  in  order  that  closely  fitting  stones  might  hide  the  repositories  of  the 
departed.  Passing  through  passages  hundreds  of  yards  in  length,  but  often 
not  more  than  a  foot  in  diameter,  the  traveler  finally  reaches  wider  chambers, 
and,  as  wearied  by  his  slow  and  toilsome  labor,  he  sits  upon  the  body  of  some 
ancient  Theban,  it  yields  to  his  weight,  his  hands  thrown  out  to  save  him 
from  falling,  meet  no  resistance  in  the  mouldering  ruins  of  humanity,  and 
he  crushes  through  a  dusty  mass  of  what  once  was  bone,  and  muscle,  and 
flesh. 

These  mummies  are  the  embalmed  bodies  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Thirty 
or  forty  centuries  ago,  they  were  citizens  of  Thebes,  the  magistrates,  the 
merchants,  or  the  citizens  of  this  opulent  city,  and  here  the  bodies  still  are 
amid  the  ruins  of  the  temples,  the  obelisks,  and  the  pyramids  they  may  have 
helped  to  erect.  It  remains  undecided  what  particular  motive  first  induced 
the  Egyptians  to  resort  to  this  mode  of  disposing  of  their  dead.  It  may 
have  sprung  from  some  peculiarity  of  their  religious  faith,  or  from  those  who 
had  gone  before  them,  or  possibly  from  the  scarcity  of  fuel  for  burning  the 
bodies  of  the  dead,  a  very  ancient  mode  of  sepulture.  Whatever  the  motive, 
the  Egyptians  were  long  accustomed  to  embalming  all  who  died,  whether 
high  or  humble.  The  poor  were  simply  embalmed  in  salt,  and  this  prepara- 
tion, with  the  uniform  and  low  temperature  of  the  tombs,  was  found  sufficient 
for  a  long  preservation  of  the  dead.  Far  more  elaborate  care  was  bestowed 
upon  the  wealthier  classes.  The  entrails  were  first  extracted  from  a  hole  in 
the  side,  and  the  brain  drawn  through  the  nostrils.  The  body  was  then 
soaked  in  salt,  a  mixture  of  asphaltum,  of  resin,  and  of  aromatic  drugs  were 
then  forced  through  the  cavities,  into  all  the  hollow  parts  of  the  body.  Each 
finger  and  toe,  after  the  nailr,  had  been  properly  gilt,  were  encased  separately 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  165 

in  cloths  first  saturated  with  asphaltum,  and  then  covered  with  thimbles  of 
gold.  After  the  body  had  been  subjected  to  a  dyeing  process,  a  thin  envelop 
of  cotton,  also  saturated  with  asphaltum,  was  glued  to  the  body.  Above 
this,  successive  layers  of  prepared  cloth,  often  to  the  number  of  fifteen  or 
twenty,  were  wound  round  the  body,  and  the  whole  covered  over  with  a  fine 
cement,  designed  wholly  to  exclude  the  air.  Lengthwise  down  the  breast, 
hieroglyphic  characters  stated  the  name  of  the  deceased  in  letters  of  gilt. 
Thus  prepared,  the  mummy  was  placed  in  a  coffin  of  sycamore  or  cedar 
wood,  ornamented  with  numerous  sacred  hieroglyphics,  often  descriptions  of 
the  passage  of  the  soul  into  another  world,  or  its  transmigration  into  different 
forms.  Two,  three,  and  even  more  cases,  in  some  instances,  inclose  the  first 
coffin  ;  whatever  the  number,  they  all  are  ornamented  with  inscriptions  and 
paintings.  Thus  preserved  and  prepared  for  burial,  they  were  placed  within 
their  chambers,  whose  entrances  were  securely  closed. 

In  viewing  one  of  these  objects,  of  what  in  a  far  remote  antiquity,  was  a 
livino-  man,  actuated  with  all  the  hopes  and  desires  which  actuate  us,  how 
naturally  are  the  reflections  which  press  upon  the  mind,  given  in  the  well 
known  : 

ADDRESS  TO  THE  MTJMHT  AT  BELZONI'S  EXHIBITION. 

And  thou  hast  walked  about  —  how  strange  a  story  ! 

In  Thebes's  streets  three  thousand  years  ago, 
When  the  Memnonium  was  in  all  its  glory, 

And  time  had  not  begun  to  overthrow 
Those  temples,  palaces,  and  piles  stupendous, 
Of  which  the  very  ruins  are  tremendous. 

Speak  !  for  thou  Ion?  enough  hast  acted  dummy,' 
Thou  hast  a  tongue  —  come  —  let  us  hear  its  tune  : 

Thou'rt  standing  on  thy  legs,  above  ground,  mummy  1 
Revisiting  the  glimpses  of  the  moon; 

Not  like  thin  ghosts  or  disembodied  creatures, 

But  with  thy  bones,  and  flesh,  and  limbs,  and  features. 

Tell  us  —  for  doubtless  thou  canst  recollect, 
To  whom  should  we  assign  the  Sphinx's  fame  ? 

Was  Cheops  or  Cephrcnes  architect 
Of  cither  Pyramid  that  bears  his  name  ? 

Is  Pompey's  Pillar  really  a  misnomer  ? 

Had  Thebes  a  hundred  gates,  as  sung  by  Homer  ? 

Pr  haps  thou  wast  a  mason,  and  forbidden 

bj  oath  to  tell  the  mysteries  of  thy  trade, — 
Then  say  what  secret  melody  was  hidden 

In  Memnon's  statue,  which  at  sunrise  played  ? 
Perhaps  thou  wert  a  priest  —  if  so,  my  struggles 
Are  vain,  for  priestcraft  never  owns  its  juggles. 

Perchance  that  very  hand,  now  pinion'd  flat, 
Has  hob-a-nobbed  with  Pharaoh,  glass  to  glass  ; 

Or  dropped  a  halfpenny  in  Homer's  hat, 
Or  doff 'd  thine  own  to  let  Queen  Dido  pass ; 

Or  held,  by  Solomon's  own  invitation, 

A  torch  at  the  Great  Temple's  dedication. 


166  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

I  need  not  ask  thee  if  that  hand,  m  hen  arm'd, 
Has  any  Roman  soldier  mauled  and  knuckled, 

For  thou  wert  dead,  and  buried,  and  embalm'd, 
Ere  Romulus  and  Remus  had  been  suckled  : — 

Antiquity  appears  to  have  begun 

Long  after  thy  primeval  race  was  run. 

Thou  couldst  develop,  if  that  wither'd  tongue 
Might  tell  us  what  those  sightless  orbs  have  seen, 

How  the  world  look'd  when  it  was  fresh  and  young, 
And  the  great  deluge  still  had  left  it  green— 

Or  was  it  then  so  old  that  history's  pages 

Contain'd  no  record  of  its  early  ages  ? 

Still  silent  ?  uncommunicative  elf! 

Art  sworn  to  secrecy  ?  then  keep  thy  vows  ; 
But,  prithee,  tell  us  something  of  thyself— 

Reveal  the  secrets  of  thy  prison-house  : 
Since  in  the  world  of  spirits  thou  hast  slumbered, 
What  hast  thou  seen — what  strange  adventures  numbered  t 

Since  first  thy  form  was  in  this  box  extended 
We  have,  above  ground,  seen  some  strange  mutations  ; 

The  Roman  Empire  has  began  and  ended — 
New  worlds  have  risen  —  we  have  lost  old  nations, 

And  countless  kings  have  into  dust  been  humbled, 

While  not  a  fragment  of  thy  flesh  has  crumbled. 

Didst  thou  not  hear  the  pother  o'er  thy  head 
When  the  great  Persian  conqueror,  Cambyses, 

March'd  armies  o'er  thy  tomb  with  thundering  tread, 
O'erthrew  Osiris,  Orus,  Apis,  Isis, 

And  shook  the  Pyramids  with  fear  and  wonder, 

When  the  gigantic  Memnon  fell  asunder  ? 

If  the  tomb's  secrets  may  rot  be  confess'd, 

The  nature  of  thy  private  life  unfold  ; 
A  heart  hath  throbbed  beneath  that  leathern  breast, 

And  tears  adown  that  dusty  cheek  have  roll'd  : 
Have  children  climbed  those  knees,  and  kiss'd  that  face  I 
What  was  thy  name,  and  station,  ago,  and  race  ? 

Statue  of  flesh — Immortal  of  the  dead  1 

Imperishable  type  of  evanescence  ! 
Posthumous  man,  who  quitt'st  thy  narrow  bed, 

And  standest  undecay'd  within  our  presence, 
Thou  wilt  hear  nothing  till  the  Judgment  morning, 
When  the  great  trump  shall  thrill  thee  with  its  warning. 

Why  should  this  worthless  tegument  endure, 

If  its  undying  guest  be  lost  forever  ? 
0  let  us  keep  the  soul  embalmed  and  pure 

In  living  virtue,  that  when  both  must  sever, 
Although  corruption  may  our  frame  consume, 
Th'  immortal  spirit  in  the  skies  may  bloom. 

Covering  the  walls  of  innumerable  chambers  and  oassages,  as  well  as  the 
stone  coffins  of  the  more  wealthy,  is  a  profusia .  .-.  painted  sculpture,  which 
reveals  the  daily  life  of  the  departed  Egyptian  world,  its  religious  solemnities, 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  167 

its  familial  usages,  festivals,  hunts,  bull  fights,  fishing  and  fowling  scenes, 
domestic  life,  both  of  festivity  and  sorrow,  the  whole  progress  of  life,  from 
the  cradle  to  the  grave,  the  passage  of  the  dead  into  the  realms  of  futurity, 
«he  judgment  and  the  mysterious  transmigration  of  the  soul. 

Up  a  narrow  ravine  lies,  at  a  distance  of  two  miles  from  the  city,  the 
"Valley  of  the  tombs,"  a  gloomy  solitude,  surrounded  by  high  mountains, 
precipitous  to  the  very  top.  Here  the  kings  of  Thebes  sought  u>  hide  from  the 
world,  the  resting-place  of  their  race.  Broken  gates,  mutilated  sculptures, 
and  empty  coffins,  tell  how  successfully  avarice  and  curiosity  have  triumphed 
over  every  precaution.  Amid  the  endless  profusion  of  painted  sculptures, 
the  eye  is  often  shocked  by  representations  of  headless  trunks  streaming  with 
blood,  the  horrid  libations  poured  out  over  the  graves  of  the  imperial  dead. 

Belzoni  long  sought  in  vain  to  penetrate  into  one  of  these  tombs,  which  had 
excited  his  curiosity.  Obstacle  after  obstacle  had  purposely  been  interposed 
by  the  builder  to  prevent  access  to  the  sepulchral  chamber.  At  last  he 
reached  it,  and  found  in  the  center  of  the  most  magnificent  vault  yet  disco- 
vered, a  sarcophagus  of  aragonite,  nine  feet  five  inches  long,  and  three  feet 
five  inches  wide.  This  chamber  was  recognized  to  be  the  tomb  of  Necho, 
who  is  mentioned  in  Scripture  as  having  waged  successful  war  against  Judea 
and  Assyria.  His  coffin  was  covered  with  sculptures  most  carefully  executed, 
and  representing  several  hundred  figures  of  captive  Hebrews,  with  their 
peculiar  features,  of  dark  Ethiopians,  and  of  gorgeously  dressed  Persians. 
The  figures  are  each  about  two   inches  in  height,  and  are  brilliantly  colored. 

Twenty-six  miles  above  Thebes  is  the  smaller  temple  of  Esneh,  peculiar  for 
its  antique  purity  of  style,  and  one  of  the  most  perfect  of  ancient  monuments. 
The  zodiac,  with  which  the  cupola  of  this  temple  is  adorned,  forms  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  evidences  of  ancient  science,  and  has  thrown  much  light  upon 
controverted  subjects  in  astronomy.  At  Edfou,  thirty  miles  higher  up  the 
Nile,  is  a  temple  four  hundred  and  eighty-four  feet  long,  two  hundred  and 
twelve  feet  in  breadth,  and  ornamented  with  a  peristyle  of  thirty-two  columns, 
forming  a  magnificent  perspective.  Above  Edfou  the  plain  of  Egypt  narrows 
extremely,  and  here  are  found  the  immense  quarries  of  the  finest  sandstone, 
which  have  furnished  the  materials  of  all  the  temples  which  are  found  between 
Syene  and  Dendera.  This  stone  is  intermixed  with  quartz,  united  by  a  cal- 
careous gluten  ;  the  general  color  is  white  or  gray,  though  often  tinted  with 
spots  and  veins.  When  first  quarried  it  is  easily  worked,  though  time  gives 
it  the  hardness  of  the  most  solid  rocks. 

Quite  up  to  the  Cataracts,  ancient  temples  are  frequent,  and  even  far 
into  the  limits  of  Nubia,  are  found  memorials  of  the  days  of  the  Pharoahs, 
and  of  the  worship  of  Osiris  and  Apis  ;  but  they  differ  only  in  detail  from 
what  has  already  been  described  as  existing  lower  down  the  Nile.  Egypt  in 
ruins  is  a  land  of  wonders.  Egypt  in  the  days  of  its  greatness,  was  possessed 
of  a  splendor  of  which  even  imperial  Rome  was  ignorant.  The  Greeks  may 
have  possessed  a  superior  delicacy  of  taste,  but  in  the  vastness  of  their  con 
ceptions,  and  in  the  magnificence  of  their  undertakings,  Egypt  is  unap- 
proached  in  all  antiquity.  What  a  comment  upon  the  necessity  of  a  revela- 
tion from  God  are  these  gigantic  remains  of  ancient  days,   constructed  in 


168  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

honor  of  some  idol,  or  as  a  mausoleum  of  ape  or  ibex,  crocodile  or  lizard  J 
Christianity  alone  can  dignify  art  by  faith,  and  can  alone  teach  us  that  th 
heart  is  the  only  immortal  temple  of  the  Almighty. 

The  prospects  of  Egypt,  so  long  given  over  to  a  hopeless  oppression 
seemed  to  have  brightened  under  the  new  rule,  which  in  the  person  of  Meheme 
AH,  was  extended  over  her.  The  different  representations  which  Englisl 
and  French  writers  have  made  of  the  tendency  of  this  policy,  in  accordance 
with  the  different  political  intents  of  the  two  countries,  as  well  as  the  remark- 
able character  of  the  man  himself,  seems  to  demand  some  brief  notice  of  this 
memorable  ruler. 

Eighty-four  years  ago  the  obscure  Albanian  village  of  Cavalla  gave  birth 
to  a  child  of  humble  parentage,  who,  in  many  respects,  has  been  to  Egypt 
what  Napoleon  was  to  France.  The  world-renowned  Viceroy  of  Egypt, 
Mehemet  Ali,  fittingly  commenced  his  career  as  a  tax-gatherer  of  the  Sultan's 
tribute  in  his  native  province.  At  the  age  of  thirty,  and  about  the  commence- 
ment of  the  present  century,  he  first  set  foot  as  a  subordinate  in  the  Albanian 
jorps,  on  the  soil  which  was  to  become  the  scene  of  his  future  greatness. 
Already  he  was  regarded  as  a  rising  man.  A  successful  speculation  in 
t-obacco,  and  a  not  less  fortunate  one  in  matrimony,  had  prepared  the  way  for 
«is  rapid  military  promotion  to  the  office  of  General  of  Division.  The  object 
of  the  enthusiastic  attachment  of  his  Albanian  troops,  he  was  successful  in 
his  engagements  with  Napoleon's  veterans,  who  sought  in  vain  to  secure  for 
their  master  the  fruitful  delta  of  the  Nile.  After  their  expulsion  from  Egypt, 
Mehemet  Ali  began  to  develop  his  schemes  of  ambition,  and  fully  to  carry 
out  those  vast  projects  which  were  to  make  him  the  all  but  in  name  independ- 
ent Sultan  of  Egypt. 

The  Mamelukes,  a  numerous  and  fierce  band  of  mercenaries,  alternately 
overawing  their  rulers,  or  tyrannizing  over  the  people,  had  long  been  the 
same  curse  to  Egypt  that  the  Janizaries  had  once  been  to  Turkey.  For 
more  than  six  centuries  this  body  of  highly-disciplined  troops,  about  twelve 
thousand  in  number,  mostly  natives  of  Circassia,  and  the  remote  provinces 
of  Turkey  which  lie  between  the  Black  and  the  Caspian  seas,  had  controlled 
the  government  of  Egypt,  and  ground  to  the  dust,  by  their  extortion  and  their 
violence,  the  unfortunate  Fellahs.  Aliens  in  blood  from  the  rest  of  the  Egyp- 
tians, powerful  in  numbers,  and  rapacious  beyond  the  ordinary  rapacity  of 
hireling  troops,  they  were  fit  instruments  with  which  to  extort  the  last  rag 
from  the  naked,  and  the  last  crust  from  the  hungr}7.  Not  content  with  the 
license  given  to  their  cupidity,  they  always  sought,  and  often  succeeded  in 
making  the  Pacha  their  tool. 

Mehemet  Ali,  however,  was  not  the  man  to  submit  to  a  division  of  powei 
with  anybody,  much  less  to  become  the  tool  of  his  own  soldiery.  After 
years  of  difficulty  and  contention,  with  true  barbarian  policy,  he  determined 
upon  their  extermination.  Taking  occasion  from  the  public  investiture  of  his 
son  with  the  command  of  the  army  to  be  sent  against  the  Wahabees  of  Arabia, 
who  had  taken  possession  of  the  holy  cities  of  Mecca  and  Medina,  Mehemet 
Ali  invited  that  portion  of  the  Mamelukes  who  were  encamped  near  Cairo, 
to  be  present  at  the  festival.    Leading  from  the  immense  fortress  of  the  city  is 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGiTT.  169 

a  long  defile,  surrounded  by  high  walls,  and  terminated  by  a  colossal  gateway 
The  Mamelukes,  who  had  been  welcomed  by  the  Pacha  with  unwonted  hos- 
pitality, and  whose  good  cheer  was  still  moist  upon  their  lips,  had  just 
mounted  their  splendid  chargers,  and  were  gayly  prancing  through  the  narrow 
defile,  when  the  gates  were  closed,  and  a  murderous  fire  was  opened  upon 
them  by  Mehemet's  Albanian  troops.  From  parapet  and  tower  destruction 
was  poured  down  upon  the  helpless  and  too-confiding  Mamelukes.  A  few 
moments  sufficed  for  the  work  of  death.  The  Pacha,  seated  where  he  could 
observe  the  bloody  scene,  but  hidden  from  view,  saw  the  power  that  for  six 
centuries  had  oppressed  the  land,  destroyed  in  a  moment.  The  rest  of  the 
Mamelukes,  already  greatly  reduced  in  number  by  the  wars  which  had  deso 
lated  the  country,  and  scattered  at  different  posts,  fell  victims  to  the  same 
treacherous  fate.  Nearly  six  hundred  of  these  dreaded  oppressors  were 
slain  under  Mehemet's  eye  at  Cairo. 

A  single  Mameluke  escaped.  Detained  in  the  city,  Amin  Bey  awaited 
the  troop  outside  the  gate  ;  seeing  it  shut,  he  suspected  treachery,  and  spur- 
ring his  horse  over  the  ramparts,  a  precipitous  descent  of  forty  feet,  he  escaped 
with  his  life  by  the  sacrifice  of  his  noble  charger,  who  was  killed  by  the 
leap.  This  act,  so  consonant  to  Eastern  habits,  and  so  odious  to  ours,  Mehe- 
met  Ali  always  justified  as  a  political  necessity.  Treachery  to  the  country, 
in  conspiring  to  make  over  Egypt  to  the  English,  and  deadly  hostility  to  his 
own  person  and  government,  were  the  defenses  upon  which  he  relied  for  his 
vindication.  Whatever  may  be  thought  of  the  morality  of  the  act,  the  coun- 
try has,  doubtless,  been  a  gainer  by  their  extermination.  A  single  tyrant, 
when  his  views  are  comprehensive,  may  accomplish  much  good.  Twelve 
thousand  tyrants  are  an  unmitigated  curse  to  any  country.  Mehemet  Ali 
next  undertook  to  introduce  the  European  dress  and  drill  among  his  soldiers, 
but,  at  first,  unsuccessfully,  All  Cairo  was  in  an  uproar  ;  his  troops  became 
mutinous,  murdered  their  officers,  and  plundered  the  city.  Mehemet  had 
gone  too  far,  and  must  recede.  His  Albanians  were  restored  to  their  beloved 
width  of  breeches,  beside  being  pardoned  for  their  excesses.  The  Pacha, 
however,  adhered  no  less  firmly  to  his  original  design.  A  levy  of  Egyptian 
youth  was  soon  made,  and,  under  the  energetic  drill  of  French  officers,  Me- 
hemet soon  possessed  a  disciplined  army  of  eighty  thousand  men,  able  to 
compete  with  European  troops,  and  far  superior  to  any  force  ever  before 
known  in  the  East. 

The  Pacha  was  not  less  successful  in  his  efforts  to  form  an  Egyptian  navy. 
The  ruin  of  his  first  fleet  was  accomplished  at  Navarino.  A  second  fleet  of 
more  than  fifty  vessels,  twenty  of  which  were  ships  of  the  line,  or  frigates, 
soon  testified  to  the  wonderful  energy  and  resources  of  the  man.  With  such 
material  for  the  accomplishment  of  his  plans,  Mehemet  Ali  has  waged  suc- 
cessful war  against  Europeans,  Asiatics,  and  Africans  ;  Arabia,  Nubia,  and 
Syria  have  each  contributed  to  give  solidity  to  his  well-earned  military 
fame.  The  conquest  of  the  latter,  involving  as  it  did,  war  with  his  nominal 
master,  the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  called  for  all  his  resources.  His  success  in  this 
campaign  shook  the  throne  of  Constantinople,  and  the  poor  tax-gatherer  of 
Cavalla  might  have  ascended  the  throne  of  the  Caliphs,  had  not  the  European 


170  BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT. 

powers  interfered  for  the  protection  of  their  own  interests  Compelled 
to  surrender  his  Syrian  conquests,  he  still  succeeded  in  procuring  for  himself 
the  hereditary  lordship  of  Egypt.  Virtually  independent,  the  rulers  of  Egypt 
henceforth  acknowledged  no  other  dependence  upon  Turkey  than  the  pay- 
ment of  the  annual  tribute  to  the  Sultan. 

The  military  successes  of  Mehemet  Ali,  however,  form  but  an  insignificant 
part  of  his  claims  to  public  notice.  His  gigantic  projects  for  the  development 
of  the  resources  of  the  country,  and  the  considerable  success  which  attended 
them,  have  long  ago  given  him  a  wide  celebrity.  Wherever  his  authority 
extended,  there  the  foreign  traveler  was  sure  of  protection.  Amid  the  wild 
Nubians,  in  the  remote  parts  of  Upper  Egypt,  in  the  trackless  desert  of  Arabia, 
and  amid  the  once  lawless  population  of  Cairo,  the  traveler  was  made  safe 
in  purse  and  person.  The  solitary  pilgrim  to  the  shrine  of  the  false  prophet, 
equally  with  the  christian  pilgrim  to  the  sacred  places  of  the  holy  city,  was 
everywhere  guarded  by  the  dread  which  the  name  of  Mehemet  Ali  inspired. 

Gratitude  for  such  protection  has  led  travelers  to  speak  more  favorably  of 
him  than  the  facts  seem  to  justify.  He  made  his  government  an  absolute 
despotism,  and  this  of  itself  is  decisive  as  to  the  permanent  value  of  his  reign 
to  Egypt.  The  character  of  each  successive  Pacha  necessarily  determines  the 
measure  in  which  his  people  shall  be  prosperous  and  happy.  Not  one  move- 
ment of  further  progress  in  arts,  in  commerce,  or  in  agriculture,  can  be  guar- 
anteed to  such  a  country  beyond  the  life  of  its  present  ruler.  The  Pacha  of 
to-day  may  be  a  wise,  patriotic,  and  humane  man.  Under  him,  industry, 
secure  of  its  reward,  will  everywhere  flourish.  His  successor  of  to-morrow, 
may  be  a  cruel,  sanguinary  monster.  At  once  the  ingenuity  and  the  enter- 
prise of  a  people  begin  to  wither  and  die.  Exaction  and  violence  have  des- 
troyed nope,  the  only  incentive  to  labor.  In  all  that  Mehemet  Ali  did,  he 
failed  to  do  the  one  thing,  without  which,  everything  else  was  of  little 
value. 

Had  he  aimed  to  render  permanent  his  reforms  in  Egypt  by  such  institu- 
tions as  were  in  his  power,  his  name  might  have  gone  down  to  posterity  as 
a  herald  of  civilization  and  a  benefactor  of  his  race.  Some  good  he  unques- 
tionably did.  He  united  Alexandria  to  Cairo  by  a  canal,  and  thus  developed 
the  agriculture  of  a  fruitful  region,  by  giving  it  a  constant  and  lucrative  mar- 
ket. He  improved  the  breed  of  sheep  and  horses  by  the  importation  of 
foreign  stock,  and  by  judicious  crossing.  He  practiced  an  entire  religious 
toleration,  and  gave  his  aid  and  countenance  to  European  scholars,  artisans 
and  merchants.  He  introduced  vaccination,  and  stopped  the  ravages  of  the 
plague  and  cholera  by  well-administered  quarantine  laws.  Sugar  refineries, 
saltpeter  manufactories,  cannon  founderies,  and  cotton  factories  were  among 
the  fruits  of  his  long  reign.  Dye-shops  and  print-works,  the  manufacture  of 
various  fabrics  of  woolen,  cotton  and  silk,  gave  a  strange  aspect  to  this  coun- 
try of  the  Pharaohs.  To  the  observer  who  looks  only  on  the  surface  ot 
things,  a  new  day  of  hope,  of  industry  and  growth  seemed  to  have  dawned 
upon  Egypt.  His  highly  disciplined  army,  his  well-appointed  navy,  manu- 
facturing establishments  of  various  kinds,  and  the  before  unknown  safety  of 
the  stranger  from  violence,  seemed  to  indicate  that  this  earliest  of  civilized 


BARTLETT'S  GLIMPSES  OF  EGYPT.  171 

lands  had  begun  to  renew  her  youth,  and  that  under  the  new  dynasty  she  was 
once  more  to  become  a  powerful  nation. 

Turn  over  the  page,  and  how  great  the  contrast.  In  the  forty  years  of 
Mehemet  Ali's  authority  over  Egypt,  her  population  has  been  diminished 
one-half !  What  a  tale  of  wrong  and  oppression  does  this  single  fact  unfold. 
War,  the  very  element  of  the  Pacha's  life,  has  exhausted  the  manhood  of  the 
land.  A  merciless  conscription  has  accomplished  what  neither  a  foreign  in- 
vasion nor  civil  oppression  could  have  done.  Whenever  the  Pacha  needed 
more  troops,  a  new  levy  was  ordered,  and  recruiting  bands  everywhere  pene- 
trated the  land  ;  the  mechanic  was  seized  in  his  shop,  the  laborer  in  his  field, 
and  the  miserable  Fellah  was  borne  away  from  the  midst  of  his  disturbed 
family.  The  sight  of  a  soldier  was  a  sign  for  the  wretched  inhabitants  to 
hide  themselves.  Festivals  and  funerals  were  deserted  through  fear  of  the 
conscriptions.  An  anecdote  from  the  Foreign  Quarterly  Review  will  illus- 
trate the  crafty  way  in  which  his  army  was  sometimes  recruited.  "  He 
induced  a  Christian  slave,  in  one  of  the  large  villages  of  Egypt  to  commit 
an  offense  against  the  Mohammedan  religion,  the  penalty  of  which  was  death. 
The  man  was  promised  not  only  that  he  should  not  lose  his  life,  but  also  that 
if  he  played  his  part  well  to  the  last,  he  should  receive  a  handsome  reward. 
The  Christian  was  tried  with  great  ceremony,  and  sentenced  to  die.  The 
governor,  who  was  in  the  secret,  ordered  that  the  execution  should  take 
place  with  unusual  pomp,  as  the  offense  was  one  which  excited  great  indig- 
nation among  the  faithful ;  and  to  do  honor  to  the  ceremony,  and  under  pre- 
tense that  a  rescue  might  be  attempted,  several  hundred  soldiers  were 
marched  into  the  village  without  exciting  suspicion.  On  the  day  appointed  for 
the  execution,  the  peasantry  of  the  country,  for  miles  round,  flocked  into  the 
town.  The  man  was  tied  up,  and  the  signal  for  execution  had  only  to  be 
given,  when,  suddenly,  the  soldiers  closed  upon  the  populace,  and  driving 
out  all  the  women  and  children,  and  the  old  men,  bound  the  rest,  and 
marched  them  off.  It  is  but  just  to  say,  that  the  supposed  culprit  was 
released,  thus  showing  that  Mehemet  Ali  could  keep  faith.  If  he  had  chosen 
to  break  it,  the  poor  fellow  might  have  been  executed  without  having  an  op- 
portunity of  imploring  the  despot  to  spare  the  life  which  he  had  solemnly 
promised  to  preserve." 

This  anecdote  sufficiently  illustrates  the  cost  at  which  the  armies  of  Mehe- 
met Ali  were  recruited,  and  what  an  expense  of  terrorism  and  life  his  system 
was  successful  in  imposing  upon  Europeans  by  the  appearance  of  vigor,  such 
vigor  as  necessarily  attends  upon  the  plans  of  sagacious  barbarians,  bent  upon 
witnessing  immediate  results  of  his  policy. 

Mehemet  Ali  died  in  1849,  after  a  stormy  and  most  eventful  career,  in 
Egypt,  of  forty-nine  years.  His  successors  have  been  Abbas  Pasha,  Said 
Pasha  and  Ismail  Pasha,  the  present  viceroy. 

M.    LESSEPS    AND    THE    SUEZ    CANAL. 

A  brighter  era  appears  to  be  dawning  upon  Egypt,  and  she  is  now  gradu- 
ally advancing  toward  that  position  to  which  she  is  entitled  by  her  inex- 
haustible resources  and  her  unrivalled  geographical  position.     In  1859,  she 


172  M.  LESSEPS  AND  THE  SUEZ  CANAL. 

had  five  hundred  miles  of  railroad  finished.  The  most  important  was  that 
which  connects  the  Mediterranean  with  the  Eed  Sea,  forming  the  famous 
overland  route  to  India.  Beginning  at  Alexandria,  it  runs  up  the  delta  of 
the  Nile  to  Cairo,  one  hundred  and  thirty-one  miles,  and  thence  extends  to 
Suez,  ninety-one  miles  farther — in  all  two  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles. 

The  greatest  work  of  modern  engineering,  in  Egypt,  is  the  celebrated  ship- 
canal,  one  hundred  miles  in  length,  extending  from  Port  Said,  on  the  Medi- 
terranean, to  Suez,  at  the  head  of  the  Red  Sea.  It  was  the  enterprise 
of  M.  Lesseps,  an  indefatigable  Frenchman,  who  unfolded  his  plans  to  the 
viceroy  of  Egypt,  in  1854.  With  a  vast  deal  of  opposition  and  obloquy 
from  various  sources,  especially  from  England,  the  canal  was  opened  in 
the  fall  of  1869,  at  an  expense  of  about  seventy  millions  of  dollars.  When 
entirely  completed  it  will  be  three  hundred  feet  wide  and  twenty -six  feet 
deep,  a  sufficient  depth  to  accommodate  first-class  sea-going  steamers. 
Aside  from  the  excavation  of  the  canal,  the  construction  of  a  harbor  was 
required  on  the  Mediterranean  side,  itself  a  herculean  task,  which  modern 
science  has  accomplished.  The  town  of  Port  Said,  containing  ten  thous- 
and inhabitants,  has  grown  on  the  spot,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  The 
harbor  is  formed  by  two  sea-walls,  extending  into  the  Mediterranean,  of  an 
united  length  of  nearly  three  miles  and  inclosing  five  hundred  acres  of  har- 
bor. These  walls  are  composed  of  blocks  of  stone  manufactured  on  the 
beach  from  hydraulic  lime  and  sand.  They  weigh  twenty-two  tons  each, 
were  moulded,  by  machinery,  in  the  proportion  of  one  of  lime  and  three  of 
sand,  moistened  with  salt  water,  dried  three  months  in  the  sun,  and  then 
carried  out  and  tumbled  into  position  from  lighters.  The  harbor  and  canal 
are  excavated  by  steam,  by  dredging  machines  as  tall  as  church  steeples,  with 
ponderous  iron  wheels  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  buckets  (as  big  as  a  hogs- 
head) on  an  endless  chain.  When  completely  finished,  the  quantity  of 
earth  excavated  from  the  canal  will  equal  in  amount  a  line  of  earth  one  yard 
high  and  one  yard  wide,  reaching  more  than  twice  around  the  globe,  or  one- 
fifth  the  distance  between  us  and  the  moon.  The  cost  of  all  the  machin- 
ery used  is  about  twelve  million  of  dollars.  It  is  expected  that  this  canal 
will  become  the  great  maritime  highway  of  the  world. 

The  canal  runs  through  several  small  lakes.  One  of  these,  Lake  Timsch, 
is  connected  with  a  branch  of  the  Nile  by  a  fresh-water  canal  fifty  miles  long, 
forty  feet  wide  and  nine  feet  deep.  The  lake  is  seventeen  feet  lower  than  the 
river.  "  The  canal  was  dug  to  supply  the  workmen  of  the  ship-canal  during 
its  construction,  for  ships  after  the  work  is  accomplished,  and  to  irrigate  the 
surrounding  country.  In  1865  this  whole  region  was  a  desert,  but  now  there 
are  fields  of  barley,  young  palm  groves,  fruit  trees,  flowers,  vegetation  spring- 
ing up  everywhere  —  the  once  barren  waste  literally  blooming  with  roses. 
It  is  said,  that  the  extended  cultivation  of  this  delta  has  already  affected  the 
climate  ;  that  there  are  heavier  dews  and  more  frequent  showers.  The  open- 
ing of  fresh-water  canals  and  extensive  irrigation  will  largely  increase  the 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT.  I73 

area  of  cultivated  land.  Water  turned  upon  the  sand,  if  long  continued,  will 
bring  forth  vegetation,  and  in  time  make  a  fertile  soil,  so  wonderful  is  the 
economy  of  nature." 

THE    FUTURE    OF    EGYPT. 

Ismail  Pasha,  the  present  viceroy  of  Egypt,  is  an  extraordinary  man. 
He  received  a  military  education  in  France,  and  became  viceroy  in  1863, 
during  the  era  of  our  rebellion. 

"  The  war  in  the  United  States  was  his  golden  opportunity.  The  world 
wanted  cotton,  and  Egypt  could  afford  to  raise  it  at  the  price  then  given. 
The  delta  of  the  Nile  was  turned  into  one  vast  cotton-field,  and  for  a  year 
or  two,  Egypt,  which,  from  the  time  of  Joseph,  had  been  one  of  the  world's 
granaries,  was  compelled  to  go  to  Odessa  for  wheat,  while  she  sent  her  bales 
of  cotton  to  Manchester  —  filling  the  Pacha's  purse  with  English  gold.  The 
American  war  greatly  stimulated  Egyptian  industry. 

Ismail  Pasha  has' caught  the  spirit  of  modern  enterprise.  He  is  a  friend 
of  the  Suez  canal,  and  favors  railroads.  He  is  laying  a  railroad  along  the 
western  bank  of  the  Nile,  which  is  to  extend  beyond  Thebes,  to  the  first  cat- 
aract, to  near  the  borders  of  Nubia,  and  bringing  to  the  sea-coast  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  vast  regions  beyond.  The  valley  of  the  Nile  is  the  natural 
highway  to  the  heart  of  Africa,  by  which  commerce  and  Christian  civiliza- 
tion are  yet  to  reach  Ethiopia.  The  work  which  Ismail  Pasha  is  doing  will 
be  as  far-reaching  in  its  results  as  time  itself.  Not  only  up  the  Nile,  but 
across  the  delta,  he  is  constructing  railroads.  A  new  route,  more  direct  than 
that  through  Cairo,  will  soon  be  opened  from  Alexandria  to  Suez.  Another 
railroad  will  be  built  from  Alexandria,  east  to  Port  Said,  the  northern  ter- 
mination of  the  canal.  The  delta  is  a  network  of  water- ways,  natural  and 
artificial ;  but  water  communication  is  too  slow  for  the  viceroy ;  he  must 
have  the  canal.  In  his  private  character  he  is  hard,  overbearing  and  avari- 
cious." 

In  ancient  times,  Egypt  was  the  first  nation  in  the  world.  While  all 
Europe  and  most  of  Asia  were  involved  in  barbarism,  she  was  far  advanced 
in  arts  and  sciences,  and  reared  temples,  pyramids,  statues  and  obelisks  which 
remain,  to  our  day,  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  the  world.  After  ages  of 
misery  and  darkness  and  oppression,  the  herald  of  a  new  birth  is  proclaimed 
through  commerce,  railroads,  steamships,  telegraphs,  the  printing-press,  the 
influx  of  travelers  —  all  the  features  of  Christian  civilization. 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS   IN    CHINA.  177 

China  Propel  is  the  only  division  to  which  the  name  China  is  given  and  the 
only  part  settled  by  the  Chinese,  and  that  to  which  this  article  relates.  The 
common  name  for  this  portion  of  the  empire  is  the  Eighteen  Provinces ;  but 
the  Chinese  themselves  term  it  the  M  Middle  Kingdom."  For  beauty  of 
scenery,  fertility  of  soil,  salubrity  of  climate,  magnificent  and  navigable 
rivers,  and  variety  and  abundance  of  its  productions,  it  will  compare  with 
any  portion  of  the  globe. 

The  ascertained  history  of  China  dates  from  the  reign  of  Fuhhi,  303  years 
after  the  deluge  and  2,852  prior  to  the  birth  of  Christ,  which  extends  from 
the  present  time  back  to  the  enormous  period  of  4,800  years.  Prior  to  this 
the  history  of  China  is  involved  in  fable.  Ten  centuries  ago  they  were  the 
most  civilized  nation  on  the  earth,  and  the  incredulity  manifested  in  Europe 
five  hundred  years  since,  at  the  recitals  of  the  Venetian  traveler,  Marco 
Polo,  regarding  their  condition,  is  the  counterpart  of  the  sentiments  now 
expressed  by  the  Chinese  when  they  hear  of  the  power  and  grandeur  of 
western  nations.  Their  civilization  has  been  developed  under  peculiar  forms 
and  influences,  and  must  be  compared  to,  rather  than  judged  of  by,  European  : 
the  dissimilarity  is  as  wide,  perhaps,  as  can  possibly  exist  between  two  races 
of  beings  having  the  same  common  nature  and  wants.  A  people  from  whom 
some  of  the  most  distinguishing  inventions  of  modern  Europe  came — such  ss 
the  compass,  porcelain,  gunpowder,  and  printing — whose  population  nearly 
equals  all  the  other  races  of  mankind  combined,  united  in  one  system  of 
manners,  letters,  and  polity — whose  cities  and  capitals  rival  in  number  the 
greatest  metropolis  of  any  age — who  have  not  only  covered  the  earth  but  the 
waters  with  towns  and  streets :  such  a  nation  must  occupy  a  conspicuous 
place  in  the  history  of  mankind,  and  the  study  of  their  character  and  condi- 
tion commends  itself  to  every  well-wisher  of  his  race. 

It  has  been  too  much  the  custom  of  writers  to  overlook  the  influence  of  the 
bible  upon  modern  civilization  ;  but  when  a  comparison  is  to  be  drawn  between 
European  and  Asiatic  civilization,  this  element  forces  itself  upon  the  attention 
as  the  main  cause  of  the  superiority  of  the  former.  It  is  not  the  civilization 
of  luxury  or  of  letters,  of  arts  or  of  priestcraft ;  it  is  not  the  spirit  of  war, 
the  passion  for  money,  nor  the  application  of  machinery,  that  renders  a  nation 
permanently  great  and  prosperous.  "  Christianity  is  the  summary  of  a1] 
civilization,"  says  Chenevix  ;  "it  contains  every  argument  which  could  be 
urged  in  its  support,  and  every  precept  which  explains  its  nature.  Forme  i 
systems  of  religion  were  in  conformity  to  luxury,  but  this  alone  seems  to 
have  been  conceived  for  the  regions  of  civilization.  It  has  flourished  ia 
Europe  while  it  has  decayed  in  Asia,  and  the  most  civilized  nations  are  the 
most  purely  Christian."  Christianity  is  essentially  the  religion  of  the  people , 
and  when  it  is  covered  over  with  forms  and  contracted  into  a  priesthood,  \\m 
vitality  goes  out;  this  is  one  reason  why  it  has  declined  in  Asia.  The  attain- 
ments of  the  Chinese,  in  the  arts  of  life,  are  perhaps  as  great  as  they  can  be 
without  this  spring  of  action,  without  any  other  motives  to  obedience  and 
morality,  than  the  commands  or  demands  of  the  present  life. 

The  industry  of  the  Chinese  has  given  them  their  commanding  place  among 
the  nations  of  the  earth,  and  their  superiority  over  all  their  neighbors  is  owing 


178  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN   CHINA. 

chiefly  to  this  virtue.  Not  only  has  the  natural  vegetation  been  superseded 
wherever  culture  would  remunerate  their  toil,  but  high  hills  have  been  tilled 
and  terraced  almost  to  their  tops;  cities  have  been  built  upon  them,  and 
extensive  ranges  of  wall  erected  along  their  summits.  They  practice  upon 
a  vast  scale  all  the  industrial  arts,  whether  rural  or  manufacturing  and  main- 
tain the  largest  population  ever  united  under  one  sytem  of  rule. 

An  important  event  in  the  history  of  China  was  its  conquest  by  the  Man- 
chus  Tartars  two  centuries  ago.  They  have  since  maintained  their  sway 
over  the  unwarlike  Chinese  with  but  little  difficulty.  The  Tartars  compelled 
the  Chinese  to  adopt  their  mode  of  shaving  the  front  of  the  head  as  a  token 
of  submission.  This  order  was  resisted  by  many  who  chose  to  lose  their 
heads  rather  than  part  with  their  hair,  but  the  mandate  was  gradually  en- 
forced and  has  ever  since  been  one  of  the  distinguishing  marks  of  a  Chinese. 

Anciently  the  Chinese  wore  their  hair  long,  and  bound  it  on  the  top  of  their 
head  :  they  took  pride  in  its  glossy  black  and  called  themselves  the  black- 
haired  race.  That  which  was  introduced  on  the  penalty  of  death  as  a  token 
of  allegiance,  is  now  followed  from  choice.  The  people  are  now  vain  of  a 
long  thick  cue.  In  winter  the  head  is  covered  with  a  silken  skull-cap  or  felt 
hood.  In  summer  the  men  usually  go  bareheaded  and  shade  their  eyes  from 
the  sun  with  a  fan. 

The  Chinese  are  considered  as  belonging  to  the  Mongolian  variety  of  the 
human  race.  Their  forms  are  well  built  and  symmetrical ;  in  stature  they 
equal  the  Europeans,  and  their  complexions  are  of  a  yellow  tint.  A  great 
difference  exists,  however,  among  them  in  these  respects,  between  the  north- 
ern and  southern  Chinese,  and  between  the  inhabitants  of  the  mountains  and 
those  of  the  plains  and  the  sea-coast.  In  size,  the  women  are  disproportion- 
ately small,  and  to  those  accustomed  to  the  European  style  of  beauty  the  Chi- 
nese women  possess  but  little.  But  still  the  Chinese  face  is  not  destitute  of 
some  beauty,  and  when  animated  with  good  humor  and  an  expressive  eye, 
and  lighted  by  the  glow  of  youth  and  health,  their  features  lose  much  of  their 
repulsiveness.  The  hair  and  eyes  of  the  Chinese  always  being  black,  a 
European  with  light  eyes  and  hair  appears  strange  to  them.  The  Chinese 
have  applied  the  term  "  foreign  devils"  to  Europeans,  "  because/'  say  they, 
"  they  have  deep,  sunken  blue  eyes,  and  red  hair  like  demons." 

The  only  Chinese  possessing  hereditary  rank  are  the  members  of  the  im- 
perial family,  who  are  distributed  into  five  classes,  all  distinguished  by  wear- 
ing a  yellow  girdle  ;  but  they  possess  no  political  powers  or  privileges,  and 
have  only  very  small  revenues  assigned  to  them  for  subsistence.  Beside  the 
descendants  of  the  Emperors,  there  is  another  class  of  imperial  kinsmen, 
descended  from  the  brothers  or  uncles  of  the  first  Tartar  Emperor,  who  are 
distinguished  by  a  red  sash  and  girdle. 

Polygamy  is  not  permitted  ;  a  man  can  have  only  one  legal  wife,  but  he 
may  have  as  many  concubines  as  he  pleases  ;  and  the  offspring  of  the  latter 
possess  many  of  the  rights  c  f  '  *gitimacy.  The  concubine  is  bought  for  money, 
and  is  taken  into  the  house  nearly  as  any  other  domestic.  The  wives  are  the 
slaves  of  their  husbands;  they  live  and  die  in  ignorance,  and  every  effort  to  raise 
themselves  above  the  rank  assigned  to  them  is  regarded  as  impious  arrognnce. 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN   CHINA.  179 

The  manners  of  this  numerous  people  have  one  striking  characteristic,  am. 
their  religious  opinions  and  practices  are  precisely  similar  throughout  the  em- 
pire. When  the  main  features  of  the  Chinese  have  been  studied  in  one  place, 
and  in  one  person,  they  have  been  studied  in  all  ;  and  when  one  train  of  ar- 
gument has  been  discovered,  which  suffices  to  silence  the  objections  of  one 
individual,  it  will  be  equally  effective  on  all  other  occasions.  The  uniformity 
and  invariableness  of  the  Chinese  mind  is  to  be  traced  perhaps  to  their  pos- 
sessing one  set  of  opinions  on  philosophy  and  religion  ;  which,  being  laid 
down  in  their  ancient  books,  and  transmitted  from  age  to  age,  constitutes  the 
public  and  universal  belief  on  these  topics,  and  runs  through  the  whole  mass 
of  society.  Hence  the  missionaries  always  find  the  Chinese  using  the  same 
arguments,  and  starting  the  same  objections,  which  often  having  been  an- 
swered before,  can  easily  be  answered  again.  The  people  have,  from  time 
immemorial,  been  separated  from  the  rest  of  mankind,  almost  as  much  so  as 
if  inhabiting  another  world,  hence  free  intercourse  has  never  shaped  their  in- 
ventions, or  their  literature  originated  ideas  suitable  to  the  rest  of  mankind. 
All  they  have  done  is  specifically  Chinese — all  their  productions  have  a  na- 
tional character  ;  they  are  stiff,  contracted,  and  incapable  of  being  wrought 
into  any  foreign  composition.  The  government  is  in  the  form  of  a  patriarchal 
despotism  ;  limited,  however,  in  some  degree,  by  the  right  of  representation 
possessed  by  certain  classes  of  magistrates,  and  by  the  obligation  of  the  Em- 
peror to  select  all  government  officers  from  the  literati.  This  class  forms  an 
enlightened  aristocracy,  to  which  the  young  men  of  every  rank  may  be  ad- 
mitted, after  having  passed  the  necessary  educational  steps  to  qualify  them 
for  the  exercise  of  public  functions.  The  Emperor  takes  the  title  of  "  Son  of 
Heaven,"  and  '*  August  Emperor  ;"  he  exercises  supreme  power,  chooses  his 
successor  from  among  the  legitimate  heirs,  and  believes  himself  responsible 
for  any  calamity  that  may  befall  his  people,  as  pestilence,  famine,  etc.,  etc. 
When  such  occurs,  he  publicly  accuses  himself  as  having  offended  Heaven, 
and  imposes  upon  himself  certain  penances  to  propitiate  the  offended  gods. 
The  public  functionaries  are  divided  into  nine  classes,  each  of  which  is  dis- 
tinguished by  a  jewel  or  ornament  peculiar  to  itself,  and  which  is  worn  in  the 
caps  of  the  officials.  They  are  called  by  Europeans  "  Mandarins,"  from 
the  Portuguese  verb  mandar  to  command.  Each  district  has  its  particular 
magistrates,  who  are  invested  with  ministerial  and  judicial  authority.  The 
proportion  of  public  officers  is  very  small  in  proportion  to  the  population, 
and  probably  does  not  exceed  one  to  every  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  whose 
salaries  are  generally  not  over  $250  per  annum.  The  expenses  of  the  go- 
vernment are  consequently  small,  and  the  burdens  of  taxation  comparatively 
light. 

The  public  works  of  China  infinitely  surpass  those  of  any  other  country  in 
magnitude,  if  not  in  skill.  The  "  Great  Wall,"  long  considered  one  of  the 
mightiest  of  human  undertakings,  was  built  about  two  centuries  before  the 
birth  of  Christ.  It  extends  from  the  shores  of  the  Yellow  sea  westward  fifteen 
hundred  miles,  and  ends  in  rocks  aid  deserts  almost  impassable. 

At  present  it  is  simply  a  geographical  boundary,  and,  except  at  the  passes, 
cothing  is  done  to  keep  it  in  repair.     The  other  great  work,  the  Imperial 


180  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  W  CHINA. 

CaArtl,  is  sever  hundred  miles  long,  and  two  hundred  feet  wide,  built  with  flood 
gates,  but  no  *ocks  ;  and  in  connection  with  certain  rivers,  gives  an  inland 
water  communication  from  Pekin  to  Canton,  interrupted  only  by  a  single 
mountain  r'.nge.  It  passes  through  alluvial  soil  in  every  part  of  its  course, 
and  the  eh'ef  labor  was  expended  in  constructing  embankments,  and  not  in 
digging  a  deep  channel.  The  banks  are  sometimes  twenty  feet  above  the 
surrounding  country,  and  a  hundred  thick.  Several  large  towns  stand  be- 
low, and  near  its  banks,  in  such  a  position  as  to  cause  an  involuntary  shudder 
at  the  thought  of  the  destruction  that  would  take  place  if  the  banks  should 
give  way.  Other  important  public  works  have  been  erected  for  the  purpose 
of  commanding  water  for  irrigation,  and  to  prevent  inundation.  The  bridges 
over  rapid  streams  and  broad  estuaries  are  of  solid  granite,  and  evince  great 
skill  and  perseverance  in  their  construction. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  "jive ports,"  viz.,  Canton,  Amoy,  Fuh-chau-fu, 
Ningpo,  and  Shang-hae,  by  treaty  with  England,  in  1842,  the  commerce  by 
sea  has  greatly  increased  ;  yet  the  internal  trade  of  China  is  by  far  the  most 
important.  It  is  carried  on  through  the  Empire  by  means  of  the  rivers  and 
canals  ;  and  thence  from  various  trading-posts  on  the  northern,  western,  and 
south-western  frontiers,  into  Russia,  Turkestan  and  Hindoostan.  Prior  to  the 
British  treaty,  the  whole  of  the  ocean  trade  was  monopolized  by  a  privileged 
class  at  Canton,  called  the  "  Hong  merchants,"  and  all  foreign  trade  was 
conducted  through  them  ;  no  foreigner  was  permitted  to  trade  with  the  na- 
tives, except  through  this  channel ;  and  none  were  allowed  to  reside  with 
their  families  at  Canton.  By  this  treaty,  and  treaties  since  made  with  other 
Christian  nations,  however,  all  these  restrictions  are  removed  ;  foreign  mer- 
chants now  trade  with  whom  they  please,  and  their  families  are  permitted  to 
reside  in  the  country.  The  commerce  between  the  United  States  and  China 
is  now  very  large ;  and  in  all  respects  the  Americans  are  on  the  most  bene- 
ficial footing  of  any  nation,  owing  mainly  to  the  statesmanship  of  the  late 
American  Minister  to  the  Court  of  Pekin,  the  lamented  Anson  Burlingame. 

China  contains  many  cities  and  large  towns  beside  those  chiefly  described 
below,  but  they  have  never  acquired  a  foreign  fame,  nor  been  visited  by  any 
other  travelers  than  a  few  Catholic  missionaries.  The  greatest  sameness  ex- 
ists in  all  of  them.  In  the  largest  are  a  few  well-paved  streets,  lined  with 
shops ;  but  most  of  the  streets  are  very  narrow,  extremely  dirty,  and  lined 
with  mere  hovels.  The  suburbs  of  many  cities  are  larger  than  the  cities 
themselves,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to  see  a  large  walled  space  without  houses 
where  formerly  was  a  city.  The  cities  have  often  a  fine  appearance  at  a  dis- 
tance, but  internally  are  only  a  mass  of  houses  irregularly  clustered  together, 
without  furniture  or  comforts,  and  filthy  in  the  extreme.  The  grandeur  of 
the  natural  scenery  is  often  striking.  Commanding  situations  are  chosen  for 
temples,  which  serve  likewise  for  taverns,  theaters,  public  halls  and  gambling- 
houses.  The  building  of  houses  is  regulated  by  law,  and  none  of  them 
allowed  to  exceed  a  certain  size. 

Pekin,  the  capital  of  the  empire,  stands  on  a  sandy  plain  twenty-six  miles 
distant  from  the  great  wall,  and  contains  between  two  and  three  millions  of 
inhabitants.     It  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in  circumference  and  is  surrounded 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN   CHINA.  181 

by  high  castellated  walls,  inside  of  which  is  a  wet  ditch.  It  h  composed  of 
two  distinct  cities — the  Tartar  city,  inhabited  by  Manchus  Tartars,  and  the 
old  town,  by  Chinese.  The  Tartar  town  is  very  handsome  and  has  wide  clean 
streets  ornamented  with  gay,  showy  shops.  The  finest  buildings  are  the 
temples,  which  are  spacious  and  magnificent,  and  adorned  with  columns  and 
stairs  of  white  marble.  The  emperor's  palace  is  within  the  Tartar  city :  it  is 
in  a  square  form  surrounded  by  walls  of  about  two  miles  in  circumference. 
Within  the  inclosure  are  numerous  buildings  containing  halls,  temples,  etc., 
and  the  imperial  gardens.  An  adjoining  inclosure,  occupied  by  people  in 
the  service  of  the  court,  contains  numerous  large  gardens,  with  artificial 
lakes  and  hills,  temples  and  halls.  Pekin  is  distinguished  by  its  numerous 
public  institutions,  resembling  those  of  Europe  notwithstanding  the  great  dif- 
ference interposed  by  Chinese  habits,  manners,  and  customs.  In  its  neigh- 
borhood is  the  emperor's  summer  palace  which  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
structures  in  the  world,  and  the  lands  about  it,  measuring  over  thirty  miles 
in  circumference,  are  diversified  with  artificial  lakes,  canals,  hills,  valleys, 
rocks,  and  islands  which  are  occupied  with  arbors,  forests,  pavilions,  and 
every  object  agreeable  to  the  sight. 

Canton  is  on  Pearl  river,  one  hundred  miles  from  the  sea,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  canals,  branches  of  rivers,  rice-fields,  and  towering  barren  hills. 
It  is  a  very  ancient  city  and  was  recently  the  sole  emporium  of  British  and 
American  commerce  with  China.  It  is  built  in  the  usual  Chinese  style,  sur- 
rounded by  high  walls,  and  pierced  with  gates.  A  wall  divides  it  into  the 
old  and  the  new  cities ;  but  the  suburbs  are  fully  as  large  as  the  inclosed 
parts.  Few  of  the  houses  only  exhibit  any  splendor ;  the  dwellings  of  the 
poor  are  miserable  and  crowded,  and  even  in  the  houses  of  the  wealthy  there 
is  but  little  comfort.  The  governor's  palace  is  a  spacious,  but  by  no  means 
elegant  building.  Many  thousands  of  people  live  continually  on  the  watei 
in  a  sort  of  floating  houses,  ranged  in  lines  like  streets.  Its  population  is 
over  a  million.  In  the  densest  parts  of  the  city  of  Canton,  the  roofs  are 
covered  with  a  loose  framework,  on  which  firewood  is  piled,  clothes  washed 
and  dried,  and  meals  cooked :  it  also  affords  a  lounging  and  sleeping-place  in 
summer.  Few  of  the  streets  exceed  over  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  width,  and 
most  of  them  are  less  than  eight  feet.  No  public  squares,  filled  with  foun- 
tains and  shrubbery,  nor  any  open  spaces,  except  small  areas  in  front  of 
temples,  relieve  the  closeness  of  these  lanes. 

11  The  absence  of  horses  and  carriages,  and  a  custom  of  huddling  together, 
a  desire  to  screen  the  path  from  the  sun,  and  their  ignorance  of  the  advan- 
tages of  another  mode,  are  perhaps  the  reasons  for  making  them  so  narrow. 
In  case  of  fire,  it  is  difficult  to  get  access  to  the  burning  buildings,  and 
troublesome  and  dangerous  for  the  inmates  to  move  or  save  their  property. 
At  all  times,  porters  carrying  burdens  are  impeded  by  the  crowd  of  passen- 
gers thronging  the  thoroughfares,  who  likewise  must  pass  Indian  file  lest  they 
tilt  against  the  porters. 

The  streets  are  usually  paved  with  slabs  of  stone  laid  crosswise,  and  ex- 
cept near  markets  and  wells  are  comparatively  clean.  They  are  not  laid  out 
straight  and  some  of  them  present  a  singularly  irregular  appearance  from  the 


182  FORBES    FIVE  YEARS   IN   CHINA. 

slight  angle  which  each  house  makes  with  its  neighbors  ;  it  b*ing  considered 
rather  unlucky  to  have  them  exactly  even.  The  names  of  the  streets,  instead 
of  being  marked  on  the  corners  of  the  blocks,  are  written  on  the  gateways  at 
their  ends  ;  and  as  each  division  makes  a  separate  neighborhood,  and  has  its 
own  name,  a  single  long  street  will  in  its  course  have  five,  six,  or  more 
names.  The  general  arrangement  of  a  Chinese  city  presents  a  labyrinth  of 
streets,  alleys,  and  byways,  very  perplexing  to  a  stranger  who  has  neither 
plan  nor  directory  to  guide  him,  nor  numbers  upon  the  houses  and  shops  to 
direct  him.  The  sign-boards  are  hung  from  the  eaves  or  wall  each  side  of 
the  door,  or  securely  inserted  in  stone  sockets ;  some  of  them  are  ten  or  fif- 
teen feet  high,  and  being  gayly  painted  and  gilded  on  both  sides  with  pictu- 
resque characters,  a  succession  of  them  as  seen  down  a  street  produces  a 
pleasing  effect.  The  shrines  of  the  street  gods  are  usually  located  in  little 
niches  in  the  wall,  sometimes  with  altars  before  them,  and  receiving  no  other 
regard  than  a  few  incense  sticks." 

Nankin  is  about  half  the  size  of  Canton  and  is  one  of  the  principal  manu- 
facturing towns  of  the  empire ;  it  is  famous  for  its  silks,  cotton,  paper,  and 
nankeen.  Macao  is  a  Portuguese  town  of  about  20,000  inhabitants.  It  has 
an  excellent  harbor  and  is  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  a  large 
island.  Amoy,  on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  has  300,000  inhabitants. 
Fuh-chau-fu  has  600,000  people,  Ning-po  400,000,  and  Shang-hae  250,000. 
Ting-hai  has  an  excellent  harbor  and  is  an  important  city  on  an  island  of  the 
Chusan  archipelago.  Suchau  and  Hangchau  are  two  immense  cities  in  the 
interior,  but  little  known  to  Europeans :  each  contains  two  millions  of  people. 


We  continue,  in  the  succeeding  pages  of  this  article,  our  account  of  China 
and  the  Chinese,  mainly  derived  from  the  work  of  Captain  Forbes  of  the 
British  navy,  -entitled  "Five  years  in  China;  from  1842  to  1847."  Our 
author  traveled  over  a  vast  extent  of  country  and  mixed  among  people 
of  all  ranks,  from  the  highest  officers  to  the  poor  tenant  of  the  humblest  cot- 
tage. 

It  was  thus  his  lot  to  travel  in  this  wonderful  country,  where  man 
appears  under  such  an  extraordinary  aspect  as  to  have  led  some  writers  to 
doubt  whether  Noah  might  not  have  settled  in  China  with  a  fourth  son. 
His  book,  however,  is  not  in  the  ordinary  form  of  travels,  where  the 
personal  movements  of  the  author  occupy  a  large  space ;  but  is  divided 
into  chapters,  each  being  allotted  to  some  subject  connected  with  China 
and  the  Chinese. 

As  regards  the  accounts  of  the  Chinese  nation  at  large  —  says  our 
traveler — nothing  can  be  more  fallacious  than  the  ideas  conveyed  by  the 
ordinary  accounts  which  we  read.  "  I  found  myself" — says  he — "  in  the 
midst  of  as  amiable,  kind,  and  hospitable  a  population  as  any  on  the  face  of 
the  globe,  as  far  ahead  of  us  in  some  things  as  behind  us  in  others.  As  for 
the  honesty  of  the  people  continues  he,  "  Let  us  speak  of  man  as  we  find 
him  ;"  and  though  comparisons  are  odious,  yet  rather  costly  experience  com- 
pels me  to  say  that  my  own  property  suffered  more  from  actual  robbery  in 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  183 

landing  and  passing  the  English  frontier,  than  during  my  whole  sojourn  in 
China. 

Under  the  despotic  sway  of  the  "  Son  of  Heaven" — as  the  Chinese  term 
their  emperor — the  subject  enjoys  a  fair  portion  of  liberty,  and  more  happi- 
ness than  falls  to  the  lot  of  most  nations.  The  empire  is  as  one  family,  and 
if  the  Imperial  Father  sometimes  visits  severely  the  error  of  one  member  of 
it,  yet  he  is  slow  to  exercise  his  authority  ;  and  though  death  be  the  penalty 
that  the  law  awards  for  many  offenses,  capital  punishments  are  extremely 
rare  ;  and  the  bent  of  legislation  aims  at  providing  against  the  ills  of  hu- 
manity, by  relieving  its  wants,  and  preventing  rather  than  punishing  crime. 
For  this  purpose  education  is  general,  arts  are  encouraged,  gigantic  under- 
takings are  completed  for  facilitating  trade,  agriculture  is  held  in  honor,  and 
every  possible  means  adopted  for  feeding  the  people,  and  preventing  or  allevi- 
ating famines,  which  without  some  such  regulations  would  perhaps  oftener 
occur. 

The  cities  of  China,  and  their  inhabitants,  with  the  exception  of  those  of 
Canton,  are  very  similar  to  each  other,  and  as  I  consider  Shanghae  to  be  the 
most  important  for  us  to  know  about,  I  have  selected  it  to  describe  as  the 
best  means  of  giving  an  insight  into  Chinese  town  life.  This  city  and  Can- 
ton, at  present,  sustain  nearly  all  the  trade  with  foreigners. 

At  Shanghae  the  foreigner  is  surrounded  by  a  peaceable,  and  hospitable 
community,  where  crime  is  a  matter  of  such  rare  occurrence  that  his 
Excellency  Kung  Muku,  the  civil  governor  said  in  my  presence,  that 
during  his  government  of  so  large  a  population,  which  had  lasted  I  believe 
nine  years,  one  execution  only  had  taken  place  and  that  for  crim.  con.,  and 
murder  of  the  injured  husband.  This  may  serve  as  an  illustration,  not  only 
of  the  morality  of  a  people,  whom  I  have  read  somewhere,  termed  a  nation 
without  morals  or  truth,  but  of  the  general  mildness  of  the  government. 
But  beside  the  absence  of  crime  at  Shanghae,  I  have  had  several  years'  ex- 
perience to  ground  my  statements  on,  that  insults  and  annoyances  of  every 
kind,  are  less  frequent  to  strangers  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

The  city,  that  is  to  say  the  part  of  Shanghae  inclosed  within  the  wall,  is 
by  no  means  extensive  for  China,  being  less  than  four  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence— that  of  Nankin  is  thirty — but  it  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  very 
large  suburbs.  It  is  entered  by  four  large,  and  two  small  gates;  beside  these 
are  three  water-gates,  by  which  the  different  canals  having  made  the  circuit 
of  the  walls,  pass  through  the  city  into  the  river,  carrying  with  them  all  the 
offal,  and  affording  the  means  for  the  transportation  of  merchandise.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  dirty,  and  the  houses  low.  Nearly  all  the  govern- 
ment offices  are  within  the  walls.  Among  the  principal  institutions  are  the 
college,  a  fine  building  with  stone  edifices,  and  ornamental  temples  surround- 
ing, a  highly  elegant  grotto  garden,  varied  with  lakes,  hills  and  trees. 

The  Temple  of  Confucius  is  a  handsome  stone  structure,  covering  about 
three  acres  of  ground.  Several  large  Buddhist  temples  ornament  the  city, 
which  are  nearly  all  painted  red.  On  the  city  walls  are  some  large  temples, 
commanding  fine  views.  Among  these  near  the  north  gate,  is  the  Temple 
of  Spring,  in  which  are  five  apartments  open  on  all  sides,  where  the  ladies 


184  FORBES'  FIVE   TEARS  IN  CHINA 

o*eet  in  the  month  of  May,  to  watch  the  progress  of  Spring,  and  deck  their 
raven  black  hair  with  the  early  flowers. 

Near  the  center  of  the  city,  are  the  public  gardens  with  lakes  and  islands  ; 
in  and  around  these  are  picturesque  overhanging  temples  fitted  as  tea  houses. 
In  various  parts  of  the  gardens  are  temples  for  the  deities,  play  houses,  and 
grottoes,  surmounted  with  exotics  arranged  with  great  taste,  while  in  the 
area  in  front  of  the  principal  tea-houses,  are  the  tents  of  astrologers,  doctors, 
dentists,  necromancers,  booksellers,  almost  all  itinerate  trades,  peep-shows, 
dancers  on  tight  ropes,  and  Punch.  Although  this  place  is  generally  thronged 
with  visitors,  no  disturbances  or  annoyances  ever  take  place.  In  the  houses 
adjoining  are  every  kind  of  shop,  among  which  are  a  number  of  dealers  in 
antiquities  and  curiosities. 

The  mandarins'  offices  are  among  the  most  showy  buildings,  being 
generally  painted  with  bright  colors,  and  approached  through  large  court 
yards  in  which  are  huge  carved  representations  of  dragons,  lions,  or  other 
animals,  each  of  which  is  emblematic,  as  the  figures  in  heraldry.  On  the 
left-hand  side  is  an  orchestra  for  a  band  of  music,  and  on  the  right  the 
saluting  guns.  The  house  is  in  three  distinct  buildings,  a  court  yard  separat- 
ing each.  The  first  is  that  of  ceremony,  consisting  of  a  large  hall,  with  a 
smaller  apartment  on  each  side  ;  the  next  receiving  rooms  for  visitors,  and 
the  third  private  apartments.  The  bridges  which  mostly  consist  of  one  high 
arch  with  stone  stairs,  are  in  many  instances  highly  carved,  and  each  orna- 
mented with  a  painted  lantern.  In  the  principal  streets  are  high  triumphal 
gateways  of  elegant  structure  in  splendid  alto-relievo,  to  commemorate  some 
important  event,  or  hand  down  the  name  of  some  great  officer — some  of 
these  are  very  magnificent. 

The  Hall  of  United  Benevolence,  is  the  principal  charity.  It  comprises 
a  general  society  for  assisting  the  poor.  It  bestows  medicines,  supports  a 
free  hospital,  and  is  in  every  sense  a  noble  institution,  and  well  worthy  of  its 
name.  A  branch  of  it,  the  Foundling  Hospital,  is  supported  by  voluntary 
subscriptions ;  and  if  of  doubtful  benefit  elsewhere  is  not  misplaced  in  China, 
where  the  practice  of  infanticide  has  had  the  sanction  of  the  law. 

The  principal  local  officers  are  the  Foo-yuen  or  Prefect,  military  intend- 
ant — the  Tsna-fu,  or  sub-colonel — the  Cheheen,  or  chief  magistrate — and  the 
Tinig-che,  or  sub-prefect  of  the  coast  guard. 

The  mandarin,  in  his  sedan  chair,  is  surrounded  by  attendants,  who  clear 
the  way  for  him  in  no  very  civil  manner;  as  should  any  luckless  country- 
man's curiosity  tempt  him  to  stand  and  gape  on  the  great  man's  equipage,  as  it 
passes,  an  attendant  very  soon  gives  him  to  understand,  by  a  blow  from  a 
bamboo,  that  his  attentions  are  not  wanted ;  this  ceremony  answers  to  the 
*.*  move  on"  of  our  policemen.  According  to  his  rank,  he  has  one  or  more 
horsemen  in  his  train,  with  the  invariable  state  umbrella  of  crimson  silk, 
trimmed  with  vermillion  or  yellow.  High  colors  and  tawdry  dress  disguise 
a  considerable  quantity  of  filth,  sometimes  about  the  attendants.  Should  the 
object  of  his  visit  require  more  attendants  than  belong  to  the  dignity  of  his 
situation,  bystanders  in  the  streets  are  seized  upon,  pressed  into  service,  and 
made  followers  for  the  hour      The  number  of  his  sedan-bearers  varies  from 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  185 

two  to  six,  according  to  his  dignity ;  but  a  merchant  cannot  have  more  than 
two  bearers  and  a  single  follower,  to  carry  his  visiting  cards,  etc. 

The  traveling  is  mostly  by  water,  but  when  a  canal  will  not  serve,  and  a 
land  journey  must  be  undertaken,  the  mandarin  travels  in  his  sedan,  and  his 
lady  in  a  species  of  palanquin,  or  litter.  Subordinates  content  themselves  with 
a  kind  of  wheelbarrow,  propelled  by  two  coolies  (laborers),  the  body  of 
which  holds  the  luggage,  and  a  seat  on  each  side  of  the  wheel  (which  is 
cased  over),  the  two  passengers,  the  whole  being  balanced  with  great  nicety,  so 
as  to  require  little  more  labor  than  that  of  propulsion  by  the  coolies.  A  poor 
man,  who  cannot  afford  this  mode,  slings  a  pole  across  one  shoulder,  with  a 
basket  hanging  from  each  end,  which  may  contain  a  child,  or  luggage,  as  the 
case  may  be,  the  poor  wife  making  the  best  of  her  way,  that  her  cramped 
feet  will  allow,  behind  him,  carrying  a  basket  in  each  hand. 

There  is  a  remarkable  omission  in  each  room,  the  kitchen  excepted,  of 
every  house,  which  is  the  want  of  a  fire-place.  The  climate  of  Shanghae 
varies  according  to  the  season,  from  tropical  heat  to  frost,  sufficient  to  allow 
skating,  and  yet  a  fire,  for  the  purpose  of  warming  a  very  slight-built  house, 
is  a  luxury  unknown.  The  only  approach  to  it  that  I  saw,  was  now  and 
then  a  little  pan,  like  the  French  "  ChaufTerette,"  which  a  Chinaman  would 
use  for  either  feet  or  hands.  There  is  no  standing  round  a  fire,  or  stove,  in 
a  tea-house,  or  wine-shop,  as  with  us.  The  dress  is  varied  with  the  season. 
Should  the  morning  be  cold,  huge  gowns  are  put  on  lined  with  fur,  if  on  a 
rich  wearer,  stutfed  with  cotton,  if  a  poor  one,  in  number  as  the  necessity 
requires.  If  the  weather  gets  warmer  toward  midday,  one  or  more  are  shed, 
but  resumed  for  the  afternoon,  if  required,  and  by  this  means  a  man  is 
enabled  to  weather  the  coldest  winter  without  a  fire. 

The  principal  streets  have  a  brilliant  appearance.  All  the  shops  are  open, 
and  set  off"  in  the  gayest  manner  possible.  Red  and  gold  are  the  predomi- 
nant colors,  and  the  stock  arranged  so  as  to  show  off  to  the  best  advantage. 
The  thoroughfares  being  narrow,  are  frequently  covered  in  with  an  awning, 
and  have  thus  the  appearance  of  a  bazaar,  or  arcade.  The  shopmen  are 
dressed  according  to  the  pretensions  of  the  establishment,  and  attend  with 
the  utmost  civility,  showing  at  the  same  time  great  ingenuity  in  making  the 
purchaser  and  his  money  part  good  friends.  The  richest  shops  both  in  ap- 
pearance and  reality,  are  the  silk  shops,  although  their  attraction,  in  some 
towns,  is  denied  to  the  street,  from  their  standing  much  in  the  rear.  They 
are  entered  by  a  plain  gateway,  illuminated  by  several  gaudy  lanterns,  and 
the  sign  alone  directs  attention,  such  as  Chaw-twan-foo,  silk  and  satin  shop. 
Passing  through  this  gateway,  you  enter  a  paved  courtyard,  fitted  en  grotU 
with  several  large  vases  of  gold  fish,  and  many  exotics,  often  covered  in  with 
trellis  work  and  vines,  hung  with  numbers  of  cages,  containing  singing  and 
other  birds,  the  most  famous  of  which  is  the  Soo-chow  mocking-bird,  a 
species  of  lark,  which  mocks  all  sounds.  Facing  the  entrance  are  three 
apartments,  hung  with  variegated  lanterns,  supported  by  splendidly  carved 
pillars,  etc.,  generally  of  polished  wood  ;  the  center  apartment  is  fitted  as  a 
receiving  room,  with  handsome  furniture,  and  here  one  of  the  partners 
attends  to  whom  the  customer's  wants  are  explained,  and  by  whom  a  seal 


186  FORBES'  FIVE    Y  EARS  W   CHINA. 

and  tea  are  offered  ;  the  various  articles  are  brought  from  the  other  two 
apartments,  divided  from  you  and  the  courtyard  only  by  rectangular  counters. 
The  general  contents  of  the  shops  are  blazoned  forth  in  gold  letters,  on  var- 
nished black  boards,  or  painted  characters,  on  light-colored  boards,  such  as 
"  Pekin  satins  and  Canton  crapes,"  "  Hangchow  reeled  silks  and  Hoo-chow 
crapes,"  "Hoo-chow  cottons  and  Ningpo  senshaws,"  gauzes,  lawns,  and  satins. 
The  display  of  embroidery  is  magnificent.  The  satins  are  the  richest,  the 
colors  the  most  brilliant,  and  the  work  well  worthy  of  such  beautiful  material. 

Vying  in  colors  and  appearance  with  the  silk  warehouses,  are  the  fruit 
shops,  in  which  rich  and  poor  can  luxuriate  on  delicious  fruits  from  the  two 
oceans ;  the  former  on  grapes  and  the  fruits  not  in  season,  which  sell  for  high 
prices ;  but  an  iced  slice  of  pineapple  or  melon  can  be  obtained  by  the  latter, 
in  the  hottest  part  of  the  year,  for  a  few  cash,  or  something  less  than  a 
farthing.  The  next,  perhaps,  in  size,  are  the  cloth  warehouses  Sih-poophoo. 
In  them  are  great  varieties  of  woolens,  puffed  off  as  "  all  kinds  of  woven 
stuffs,  selected  and  picked."  "  we  neither  spare  pains  nor  money,"  etc.  The 
tea-dealer  has  his  establishment  surrounded  with  metal  vases  in  which  are 
the  samples  ;  boiling  water  is  always  at  hand  for  the  purchaser  to  try  the 
taste,  but  is  not  so  often  resorted  to  as  the  shorter  process  of  laying  a  small 
quantity  in  the  palm  of  the  hand,  and  on  application  to  the  nose,  judging  by 
the  aroma;  the  portion  ordered  is  packed  in  a  leaden  box  of  the  required 
size.  The  sign  may  be  Song-min-cha,  "  famous  teas  from  every  province," 
or  the  names  of  some  of  the  most  valuable  growths,  as  Singlo-Woohe,  i.  e., 
Singlo  and  Bohea. 

The  chandlers'  establishment,  Chuh-yuen,  is  often  an  extensive  one,  inas- 
much as  he  is  a  general  dealer,  beside  selling  candles  of  different  descriptions 
as  "  poured  over  and  made  for  sending  as  presents  and  offerings  :"  these  are 
of  the  tallow-tree,  with  an  ornamented  coating  of  wax,  many  of  them  very 
gaudy,  both  in  color  and  decoration,  and  are  described  in  the  signs  as  "  small 
wick  candles  made  heavy  with  wax,  and  increased  by  other  materials." 

On  all  sides  are  inscriptions  eulogistic  of  these  costly  lights :  such  as  "  in 
the  evenings  in  the  celestial  palace  they  hand  down  the  order;"  "late  at 
night  in  the  snow  gallery  they  study  the  books ;"  but  should  the  shop  have 
a  view  only  into  a  back  street  a  more  modest  sign  suffices,  as  Chuh-haow- 
shwang  hae  se  sin  chu  chuh,  "  candle  warehouse,  double  dips  and  small 
wicks,  superior  candles."  Hams,  sugar,  rice,  cakes,  flour,  bacon,  dried  fruits, 
and  every  kind  of  grocery,  may  frequently  be  found  in  these  establishments, 
whose  granaries,  bakehouses,  and  other  offices,  are  very  extensive.  Smokers 
and  snuff-takers  are  seduced  by  romances,  such  as  the  following:  "We  issue 
and  sell  Hang  Chow  tobacco,  the  name  and  fame  of  which  has  galloped  to 
the  north  of  Ke-chow  ;  and  the  flavor  has  pervaded  Keang-nan  in  the  south ;" 
"  famous  tobacco  from  the  Shihma  district ;"  "  original  importers  of  the  Fokeen 
Chappoo  and  Hong  Chow  tobaccoes."  The  pipes  are  arranged  often  with  a 
great  deal  of  taste,  like  swords  in  an  armory,  and  snuffs  of  various  qualities, 
some  of  them  very  highly  scented,  are  taken  out  of  bottles,  with  a  small 
spoon  attached  to  the  stopper.  Cigars  ar^  unknown,  and  the  weed,  in  spits 
&f  its  galloping  fame,  is  but  indifferent. 


FORBES'  FIVE   YEARS  IN"  CHINA.  187 

A  sufficient  introduction  to  the  dainties  of  a  tavern  might  be  supposed  tc 
exist  in  the  grand  display  of  the  various  dishes,  stews,  soups,  and  entrees, 
exposed  to  view,  without  additional  allurements,  as  Leang-shih  Hang,  "  rate- 
able and  provision  warehouse  ;"  "  six  kinds  of  eatables'  warehouse  ;"  "  Tar- 
tar and  Chinese  tables  spread  according  to  the  seasons,  bowls  of  vegetables, 
meats,  puddings,  soups,  cakes,  aromatic  and  simple  vegetables,  and  common 
rice  bowls."  Through  the  four  seasons  bowls  of  vegetables,  with  Tartar  and 
Chinese,  complete  dinners,  one  of  which  I  have  attempted  a  description  of 
below.  Tea-houses  are  fitted  up  in  a  fairy-like  style,  and  in  situations  over 
water,  or  high  above  the  tops  of  other  houses,  to  catch  the  air  in  summer 
time,  and  when  convenient  have  gardens,  Cha-yuen,  attached.  In  them  you 
can  have  a  private  apartment  lightly  and  elegantly  fitted  up,  generally  with 
bamboo  furniture,  or  seat  yourself  at  one  of  the  many  tables  in  the  public 
rooms,  with  a  pipe,  cup  of  tea,  and  a  few  dried  melon  pips,  all  for  one  penny. 
The  walls  are  hung  with  various  pictures  in  rolls  and  inscriptions,  such  as 
".  fruits  of  all  kinds  brought  from  the  north  and  south,  with  aromatic  and 
plain  tea  cakes ;"  "  flag  and  lance,  shaped  with  sparrow-tongued  teas  ;" 
"  Prince's  eyebrow  and  Oldman's  eyebrow  teas  ;"  "  according  to  your  wishes 
a  small  cup  of  tea."  These  houses  are  generally  well  filled,  and  are  the 
haunts  of  jugglers,  fortune-tellers,  and  other  idle  vagabonds,  and  itinerant 
dealers  of  all  kinds  :  women  are  seldom  seen  in  them,  except  dancing  and 
singing  girls.  But  the  drug  shop,  Yo-tsau-choo,  is,  perhaps,  the  most  showy 
establishment  in  some  towns  :  beside  highly-ornamented  drawers,  there  are 
all  sorts  of  porcelain  jars  and  vases,  containing  the  specifics. 

It  is  said  that  the  physician  is  not  a  well-paid  man  ;  however  that  may  be, 
the  apothecary  is,  and  he  generally  combines  the  two  professions.  Surgeons 
and  surgical  instruments  are  unknown  ;  nearly  all  the  common  European  me- 
dicines are  in  use,  but  instead  of  essences,  extracts,  and  tinctures,  the  native 
preparations  are  very  simple  decoctions,  although  these  as  well  as  plasters 
are  on  a  very  extensive  scale,  for  malades  imaginaires  abound.  In  cases  of 
severe  pain  an  opposite  part  is  punctured,  with  the  forefinger  and  thumb,  as 
a  counter-irritant.  Actual  cautery  is  not  unusual,  especially  in  cases  of 
rheumatism. 

A  dying  shop,  Ten-fang,  recommends  itself  thus,  M  green  double  dye, 
black  as  ink,  in  skill  we  rival  celestial  workmanship."  An  encomium  rather 
more  qualified  might  not  be  misplaced,  their  dyes  are  indeed  splendid.  Ba- 
zaars are  very  handsome  and  extensive,  well  filled  with  articles  "  for  sending 
as  presents,  antique  curiosities,  ornaments  for  setting  out  tables,  and  present- 
ing as  dowries;"  "  crystal  for  young  and  old  eye-glasses."  The  spectacles 
are  as  large  as  teacups,  set  in  heavy  tortoiseshell  frames,  and  slung  round  the 
ears  with  two  strings,  their  odd  appearance  may  be  imagined. 

Beside  these  signs,  and  many  more  different  kinds  not  enumerated,  each 
house  has  its  carved  sign :  thus,  a  doctor's  shop  will  be  ornamented  with  a 
patriarch  leaning  on  a  crook,  and  by  his  side  a  deer  or  a  stork,  the  stork  being 
the  emblem  of  longevity,  which,  as  is  well  known,  at  least  in  China,  pulver- 
ised dried  deer's  flesh  affords  the  surest  means  of  attaining. 

A  tea-house  is  known  by  huge  vases  almost  surrounding  it  in  all  directions. 


188  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN    CHINA. 

filled  with  the  water  of  Heaven,  i.  e.,  rain  water,  which  is  preferred,  and  in 
private  houses  is  often  kept  for  upward  of  a  year  to  acquire  considerable 
imaginary  powers  of  extracting  the  flavor  of  the  tea.  It  is  in  such  celebrity, 
that  the  Son  of  Heaven  himself,  the  literary  Emperor  Kang-He  composed  an 
ode  on  the  propriety  of  keeping  the  waters  of  heaven,  and  the  celestial  mode 
of  making  tea,  which  may  be  read  on  many  of  the  small  Chinese  tea-cups, 
that  is  to  say,  if  you  can  translate  it.  A  huge  Tartar  boot  crowns  the  shop 
of  a  dealer  in  that  line,  with  a  carving  of  some  kind  or  another,  as  is  the  case 
with  most  shops  :  notice  is  given  sometimes  in  this  manner  :  "  All  here  mea- 
sured by  one  rule,  when  favored  by  merchants  who  bestow  their  regards  on 
us,  please  to  notice  our  sign  of  the  Double  Phenix  on  a  board,  as  a  mark, 
then  it  will  be  all  right." 

The  pawnbroker  and  the  banker  are  often  synonymous  terms  with  the 
Chinese.  They  are  called  three  per  cent  per  month  shops,  that  being  the 
rate  at  which  they  advance  money  on  any  kind  of  goods  whatever,  beyond 
which  they  are  not  allowed  to  charge  upon  pain  of  receiving  sixty  blows. 
These  shops,  as  may  well  be  believed,  from  the  rate  of  interest,  are  often 
immensely  rich.  About  four  feet  from  the  ground,  a  strongly  barred  open- 
ing appears,  through  which  the  goods  or  security  are  passed,  and  if  accepted, 
the  money  is  handed  out,  and  a  ticket  corresponding  to  the  one  placed  on  the 
article  given,  redeemable  in  three  months  if  required. 

In  adition  to  the  shops,  the  frequented  streets  and  populous  villages  are 
supplied  with  traveling  trades  of  every  kind  beside  ;  the  tea-gardens  and 
squares  are  filled  with  astrologers,  necromancers,  fortunetellers,  peep-shows, 
jugglers,  Punch,  dentists,  quacks,  in  short,  all  the  drags  on  the  purse  to  be 
found  in  other  countries.  The  most  useful  of  these  is  the  walking  restaura- 
teur. His  apparatus  is  of  the  most  compact  order,  all  lightly  balanced  on  his 
back  With  one  hand,  while  with  the  other  he  teazes  a  fire  and  goes  from  place 
to  place  crying  his  prepared  dishes,  until  his  progress  be  arrested  by  some 
hungry  traveler.  His  whole  apparatus,  which  may  be  six  feet  high  by  nine 
feet  long,  is  almost  entirely  made  of  bamboo.  Beside  the  one  in  which  he 
walks,  there  are  two  perpendicular  divisions  ;  on  the  top  of  that  before  him 
are  the  basins,  plates,  etc.;  then  the  supply  of  wood,  below  which  is  the  fire- 
place and  kitchen,  consisting  of  an  iron  pan,  covered  over  by  a  wooden  tub, 
and  let  into  light  plaster-work  upon  the  fire  ;  thus  he  boils,  stews,  or  fries 
according  to  the  taste  of  the  customer ;  in  the  other  division  are  the  meats, 
vegetables,  etc.,  beside  a  quantity  of  gaudy  Chinaware,  containing  the  dried 
herbs,  peppers,  etc.,  required  ;  for  a  very  trifling  sum  the  laborer  can  here 
procure  a  hearty  meal  without  leaving  his  work,  as  the  restaurateur  hovers 
about  all  places  where  most  needed.  Beside  the  above  are  tea-stalls  of  the 
same  kind,  in  which  are  kept  hot  and  ready  the  various  kinds  of  Bohea  for 
public  convenience. 

The  itinerant  barber's  apparatus  is  complete,  the  water  always  boiling  on 
a  fire  over  his  head,  while  in  his  rear  on  a  pole,  balanced  over  his  shoulder, 
are  water,  basin,  razors,  towels,  etc.;  if  he  be  in  requisition  he  picks  out  a 
convenient  spot,  shaves  the  head,  cleans  the  ears  and  eyes,  cracks  the  joints, 
and  shampoos  the  body,  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time.     Hair  is  only 


FORBES'   FIVE  YEARS  IN    CHINA.  189 

worn  on  the  crown  of  the  head  in  shape  of  a  cue.  The  shaving  is  a  inattei 
of  necessity  to  the  mandarin  and  gentleman,  while  scarcely  a  laborer  goes 
more  than  three  or  four  days  unshorn. 

Tinker,  tailor,  and  shoemaker,  each  has  his  pack,  and  basking  in  a  sunny 
spot  plies  his  trade,  finishes  off  one  job  and  utters  his  peculiar  cry  for  another. 

The  dentist  pitches  his  tent  on  arriving ;  he  opens  box  after  box,  producing 
hundreds  of  human  teeth,  on  which  he  lectures,  declaring  each  large  and 
more  decayed  tooth  to  have  belonged  to  a  prince,  duke,  or  high  mandarin, 
who  honored  him  with  his  patronage,  and  saved  himself  from  the  most  terrific 
tortures. 

The  fortune-teller  is  a  cunning,  mysterious  looking  rascal ;  he  is  seated  at 
a  table  under  an  awning,  before  him  his  magic  mirror,  books,  pencils,  ink, 
etc.  So  intent  is  he  on  his  studies,  that  the  vociferations  of  a  country-look- 
ing bumpkin,  which  have  attracted  a  crowd  of  gazers,  have  failed  to  awaken 
him.  Slowly  he  rouses  himself  from  the  trance  of  his  meditations,  and  with 
a  mysterious  shudder  and  start,  he  excuses  himself  hastily,  shuts  his  book 
with  an  air,  talks  of  the  spirits  having  deceived  him  in  causing  him  to  be- 
lieve that  a  poor  man,  destined  to  fill  a  high  office,  humbly  awaited  him  at 
the  gate  of  celestial  bliss  ;  is  much  surprised  when  his  clownish  customer 
calls  upon  him  to  unfold  his  prophetic  powers,  and  relate  what  heaven  may 
have  in  store  for  him.  Having  asked  him  if  he  is  sure  they  have  not  met  be- 
fore, which  question  confirms  the  bumpkin  in  the  opinion  that  he  must  have 
been  the  cause  of  this  extraordinary  vision,  he  places  a  stool  for  him  opposite, 
and  then  commences  the  divination  of  futurity.  After  asking  a  few  ques- 
tions, he  places  his  mirror  so  as  to  reflect  the  heavens,  and  inscribes  thereon 
certain  mystic  signs,  these  he  continually  changes  (having  referred  to  a  num- 
ber of  books  and  talking  all  the  time  aloud),  writing  now  and  then  on  a  slip 
of  paper  ;  he  at  last  fills  up  all  he  requires,  and  hands  it  to  the  delighted 
and  deluded  simpleton  ;  then  falling  into  a  reverie  awaits  the  arrival  of 
another,  who  is  not  slow  in  arriving :  one  fool  makes  many,  and  the  trade  is 
a  good  one. 

The  craniologist  unfolds  his  plates,  and,  if  no  one  will  come  forward,  lec- 
tures on  them  at  great  length.  One  of  these  plates  I  bought  immediately 
after  a  lecture,  as  a  curiosity.  It  is  a  representation  of  a  face,  with  a  head- 
dress that  has  not  been  in  use  for  some  centuries,  inscribed  all  over  with  cha- 
racters ;  every  feature  bears  some  development  or  other.  The  ears  speak 
volumes  ;  the  forehead  is  almost  an  encyclopedia  of  organs,  some  denoting 
the  qualities  of  the  mind,  others  emblematic  of  the  destiny  of  the  individual. 
Some  of  the  characters  are  in  circles,  surrounded  by  numbers  and  profes- 
sional terms. 

The  interpretations  do  not  exactly  tally  with  those  of  our  phrenologists, 
and  when  doctors  differ,  I  cannot  decide  a  point  on  which  one  is  as  likely  tc 
be  right  as  another,  with  the  chances,  if  any,  leaning  in  favor  of  the  Chinese, 
who  have  studied  the  matter  for  centuries  before  it  was  dreamed  of  in  Europe. 

In  a  quiet  little  nook,  perfectly  apart  from  the  noise  of  the  street  or  garden, 
sits,  under  a  tree  or  awning,  the  ckess-player,  he  either  teaches  the  art  o* 
offers  to  play,  and  has  much  custom  in  both. 


190  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN   CHINA. 

The  most  novel  traveling  that  I  met  with,  was  that  of  the  circulating  libra- 
rian, with  a  box  filled  with  little  pamphlets  of  dramas,  tales  and  romances 
He  goes  the  circui :  of  the  town,  and  leaves,  brings  away,  or  exchanges  his 
books,  as  the  case  may  be,  bringing  information  and  tittle-tattle  home  to  every 
man's  door.  His  trade  is  not  a  bad  one,  as  his  stock  costs  very  little,  and  is 
in  some  demand. 

Every  cry  almost  to  be  met  with  in  London,  or  other  cities,  may  find  its 
equivalent  in  China.  Dancing  on  the  tight-rope,  traveling  players,  gambling, 
cakes,  oranges,  etc.;  in  short,  every  species  of  out-of-door  mode  of  extracting 
money  from  the  unwary. 

In  every  city  and  town  there  are  several  public  baths,  and  no  village  is 
without  one  or  more,  in  which  the  million  may  have  baths  for  the  small  sum 
of  five  Le,  or  the  twentieth  part  of  four-pence  half-penny.  These  houses  need 
no  sign  :  from  evfry  aperture  issues  steam  in  vapors  and  volumes — their 
vicinity  is  moist  Nor  is  cleanliness  the  only  benefit  conferred  by  them 
on  the  poorer  classes  of  a  people,  whose  almost  sole  beverage  is  a  decoction 
of  tea  ;  and  it  is  a  great  convenience  to  be  enabled  to  purchase  from  their 
enormous  reservoirs,  as  much  boiling  water  for  a  le  as  would  nearly  supply  a 
family  in  drirking  for  a  day.  Fuel  being,  scarce  in  the  winter  time,  this  is  a 
great  boon  and  much  taken  advantage  of,  and  might  well  be  copied  in  cities 
nearer  ho  ne. 

While  I  was  at  Shanghae,  taking  a  stroll,  about  three  o'clock,  on  the  last 
day  of  ViB  Chinese  year,  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  custom-house 
for  effecting  the  Fukien  dues,  this  building  took  fire,  and,  together  with 
some  houses  adjoining,  was  burnt :  I  was  much  surprised  at  the  alacrity  and 
excellent  order  with  which  the  engines  were  brought  to  the  spot.  Every 
division  of  the  town  has  its  engine,  and  every  engine  company  its  separate 
dress.  I  suppose,  on  this  occasion,  there  must  have  been  nearly  twenty  en- 
gines on  the  spot  in  less  than  half  an  hour,  made  like  large  tubs,  with  two 
cylinders  each,  worked  by  two  men,  and  throwing  the  water  very  well 
through  a  leather  hose. 

There  is  a  mysterious  freemasonry  spread  all  over  China  and  its  depend- 
encies, together  with  Java,  Singapore,  Malacca,  and  Penang,  called  the  "  So- 
ciety of  the  United  Three,"  known  to  Europeans  as  the  "  Triad  Society;" 
originally  formed  for  purposes  of  mutual  benevolence,  but  now  a  very  dan- 
gerous institution.  The  "  three"  are  heaven,  earth,  and  man.  The  late  Dr. 
Milne  made  the  following  researches  into  this  difficult  subject.  The  mem- 
bers of  it,  calling  themselves  brethren,  are  the  most  depraved  of  the  dregs  of 
the  people,  the  idlers,  gamblers,  opium  smokers,  and  such  like  vermin ;  their 
objects  are,  at  home,  mutual  assistance,  theft,  robbery,  overthrow  of  regular 
government,  and  aim  at  political  power.  Abroad,  plunder,  mutual  conceal 
ment  of  crime,  and  defense  against  established  authority.  Their  government 
is  a  triumvirate  of  elder  brethren,  who  have  a  larger  share  of  the  plundei 
than  the  rest.  They  are  bound  together  by  oaths  and  certain  initiatory  rites 
and  make  themselves  known  to  each  other  by  secret  signs. 

I  have  heard  it  remarked  that  there  are  no  beggars  in  China,  but  persona 
experience  in  the  country  has  given  me  rather  a  different  opinion.     In  th« 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  191 

city  of  Shanghae  there  are  more  beggars,  I  was  near  saying,  than  in  Naples, 
but,  certainly,  than  in  Lisbon  ;  and,  for  impertinence,  loquacity,  and  filth, 
would  beat  all  I  ever  witnessed.  Their  name  is  legion,  and  a  formidable  le- 
gion they  are,  completely  organized,  and  possessing  great  power  ;  no  res- 
pectable shopkeeper  is  free  from  the  presence  of  one  or  more  of  them,  nearly 
the  whole  day,  unless  he  pays  a  tribute,  or,  in  other  words,  compounds  with 
the  king  of  the  beggars  ;  and,  odd  as  it  may  appear,  this  filthy  horde  are  re- 
nresented  by  a  chief,  who  is,  in  his  own  person,  responsible  for  his  gang,  in 
case  of  any  extraordinary  enormity  being  committed.  As  a  mark  of  theii 
independence,  they  wear  no  tails  ;  they  either  encamp  in  the  outskirts,  oi 
inhabit  a  deserted  joss,  or  other  house,  or  barn,  or  ice-house,  in  summei 
time  ;  their  dress  is  sackcloth  and  dirt. 

They  are  certainly  enthusiastic  in  their  profession,  and  not  to  be  pitied  ; 
they  will  not  work,  but,  to  excite  charity  and  commiseration,  cut  and  maim 
themselves  to  an  extent  hardly  credible.  It  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see 
men  dying,  and  even  dead,  half  buried  in  snow,  and  almost  naked,  in  the 
middle  of  a  populous  city,  and  yet  they  are  constantly  receiving  alms  which 
is  immediately  spent  in  all  kinds  of  debauchery. 

The  usual  mode  of  exaction  is  as  follows  : — the  beggar  either  covers  him- 
self with  loathsome  filth,  or  ornaments  his  person  with  flowers  ;  sometimes  a 
red  tallow  lighted  candle  is  stuck  in  his  hair,  and  with  a  small  gong,  drum,  or 
two  pieces  of  wood  in  his  hands,  he  enters  a  shop,  where  either  the  smell  or 
the  noise  the  rascal  kicks  up  soon  teaches  the  unfortunate  shopkeeper  the 
value  of  peace  and  quiet,  opens  him  to  conviction,  and  brings  him  to  terms 
to  get  rid  of  the  nuisance.  So  he  goes  on  through  street  after  street  ;  no 
attempt  is  made  to  turn  him  out,  though  he  be  filled  with  vermin,  some  of 
which  he  not  unfrequently  leaves  in  exchange  for  the  alms  he  receives.  They 
are  said  to  recruit  from  the  people  by  stealing  their  offspring  ;  however  that 
may  be,  child-stealing  is  a  common  crime  in  China,  as  the  numerous  placards 
and  warnings  from  bereaved  parents  may  prove  in  any  city;  (there  are  bill- 
stickers  in  China  as  elsewhere.)  Beside  the  above,  there  are  some  real 
objects  of  charity,  who,  from  inundations  of  rivers,  banks,  fires,  etc.,  are  ren- 
dered houseless;  these  have  frequently,  as  in  England,  begging-letters,  calling 
on  the  charitable  to  assist  them,  and  not  in  vain,  as  the  Chinese  are  a  bene- 
volent people,  and  not  one  of  any  respectability  will  pass  an  object  really 
deserving  of  his  charity  without  relieving  his  wants.  "Are  there  widows  ? 
compassionate  them;  are  there  aged  ?  support  them;  are  there  sick  ?  dispense 
medicine  to  them ;  are  there  starved  and  cold  ?  give  clothing  to  them,"  are 
the  words  of  a  Buddhist,  from  which  some  Christians  might  take  a  useful 
hint. 

If  there  be  any  one  thing  that  the  genius  of  this  extraordinary  people  has 
brought  nearer  to  perfection  than  another,  it  is  the  cultivation  of  the  soil. 
The  economy  of  their  agriculture  is  beautiful  ;  the  whole  country  presents  the 
appearance  of  one  continued  garden ;  no  large  commons  starving  a  few  mise- 
rable horses,  nor  parks  and  chases  laid  waste  for  the  special  purpose  of  breed- 
ing rabbits,  are  to  be  met  with  ;  the  land  is  meant  to  feed  and  clothe  the  peo- 
ple, and  to  that  use  its  powers  are  directed.     Not  an  inch  of  soil  is  lost  that 


192  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHIN'A. 

can  be  made  useful  by  the  most  laborious  and  apparently  unpromising  indus- 
try, save  only  such  parts  as  are  set  aside  for  burial-grounds.  Swamps  are 
drained  by  canals,  which  carry  the  superfluous  waters  where  they  are  turned 
to  profitable  account  in  enriching  land  that  otherwise  would  not  be  produc- 
tive. Hills  are  terraced  to  the  summits,  and  the  banks  of  rivers  and  shores 
of  the  sea  recede,  and  leave  flourishing  farms  to  reward  the  enterprise  of  man. 
I  know  nothing  that  would  be  likely  to  be  more  valuable  from  this  country 
than  the  report  of  an  experienced  and  scientific  farmer,  could  such  be  induced 
to  bestow  a  short  time  in  traveling  to  China,  and  making  its  agriculture  his 
study.  The  whole  country  may  be  said  to  be  one  vast  estate  or  manor,  of 
which  the  Emperor  is  the  lord,  with  pretty  large  power  over  his  tenants, 
which  he  is  not  slow  sometimes  in  exercising.  The  Emperor,  as  is  well 
known,  is  a  great  patron  of  agriculture,  and  condescends  once  a  year,  with 
his  own  royal  hands,  to  guide  a  richly-ornamented  plow,  specially  kept  for 
the  purpose.  His  Majesty  first  turns  a  stated  number  of  furrows  (I  believe 
three),  then  the  royal  kindred,  and  afterward  the  ministers ;  the  land 
so  plowed  is  then  sown  with  grain,  the  produce  of  which,  on  its  ar- 
riving at  maturity,  is  eagerly  bought  at  a  high  figure  by  the  pliant 
courtiers. 

It  has  often  been  the  custom  for  the  emperors,  whose  reigns  have  been 
marked  with  peace  and  plenty,  to  compose  odes  and  songs  in  honor  of  the 
labors  of  husbandry.  Thus,  the  second  emperor  of  the  present,  i.  e.  Ta- 
Tsing  dynasty,.  Yung-Ching  remarks,  "Of  old  the  emperors  plowed,  and 
the  empress  cultivated  the  mulberry  tree  :  though  supremely  honorable, 
they  disdained  not  to  labor,  in  order  that  by  their  example  they  might 
excite  the  millions  of  the  people  to  lay  due  stress  on  the  radical  principles  of 
political  economy.  "  Suffer  not  a  barren  spot  to  remain  a  wilderness,  or  an 
idle  person  to  abide  in  a  city,  then  the  farmer  will  not  lay  aside  the  plow 
and  hoe,  or  the  wife  the  silkworm  or  her  weaving." 

To  obtain  the  largest  supply  in  the  most  economical  manner  from  the 
smallest  space  is  the  desideratum  of  the  Chinese  agriculturist,  which,  beyond 
all  other  nations,  he  has  been  successful  in  arriving  at.  Nature  has  given 
him  a  favorable  climate  in  most  parts,  a  good  soil,  and  numerous  and  splen- 
did rivers,  on  which  art  and  labor  have  been  most  unsparingly  lavished  in 
making  them  subservient  to  the  purposes  of  irrigation,  which  may  be  said  to 
be  universal.  Beside  the  canals  and  navigable  rivers,  which  no  part  of 
China  is  far  distant  from,  every  field  is  partially  bounded  by  water,  which,  in 
the  low  countries,  is  easily  made  to  inundate  the  fields,  and  cleared  off  at 
convenience  by  means  of  flood-gates.  In  Kiang-tsu,  and  all  parts  having 
canals,  it  is  raised  by  means  of  chain-pumps  of  the  rudest  materials,  worked 
either  by  hand,  feet,  or  bullocks,  according  to  the  size  of  the  machine  ;  that 
by  hand  can  only  be  worked  by  two  men,  that  by  foot  by  as  many  as  four, 
but  only  one  bullock  at  a  time  is  yoked.  In  Fukien,  and  where  springs  are 
constantly  met,  wells  are  dug,  and  over  each  an  upright  pole  of  large  dimen- 
sions is  raised,  at  the  upper  end  of  which  is  slung  a  crosspiece,  and  to  one 
end  is  attached  the  bucket  with  length  of  rope  sufficient  to  reach  the  water  ; 
to  the  other  a  stone  of  sufficient  weight  to  over-balance  it,  and  thus  a  single 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  193 

man  can  draw  hundreds  of  tons  daily  ;  these  wells  are  sometimes  found  a* 
each  corner  of  the  paddy  or  rice-field. 

But  irrigation  is  not  confined  to  the  low  countries,  but  on  the  highest  ter- 
races, the  smallest  mountain  stream,  the  veriest  drippling  of  a  spring,  is  car- 
ried by  convenient  channels  from  one  level  to  another,  with  as  little  waste 
as  possible,  till,  having  gone  through  each  in  succession,  it  is  conducted  into 
a  deep  reservoir,  to  be  ready  for  service  again  ;  but  on  those  high  grounds, 
where  springs  and  streams  are  not  at  hand,  the  water  has  to  be  raised  from 
a  lower  level.  In  Quang-tung,  where  the  hilly  country  sometimes  requires 
the  water  to  be  considerably  raised,  reservoirs  are  established  on  ledges, 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  above  each  other  ;  at  every  reservoir  stand,  one  on  each 
side,  two  men,  between  whom  is  slung  a  bucket  or  pail  of  large  proportions  ; 
the  ropes  being  relaxed,  the  bucket  fills,  when  it  is  drawn  up,  the  rope  being 
horizontally  tightened  ;  and  by  a  peculiar  swing  or  jerk  every  drop  is  re- 
ceived into  the  reservoir  above,  and  so  on  till  it  reaches  the  highest  point 
desired. 

For  manure,  almost  everything  not  edible  is  preserved,  and  this  become?, 
the  more  necessary  from  the  comparatively  small  quantity  of  stock  kept. 
Nothing  in  town  or  country  is  wasted  ;  the  refuse  of  the  drain  is  not  left  to 
pollute  the  rivers,  but  is  carefully  collected  ;  all  remnants  of  animal  and 
vegetable  matter,  even  to  the  wiping  of  a  barber's  razor,  is  sought  for,  and 
duly  appreciated. 

Water,  when  it  can  be  spared,  is  drawn  off  from  the  canals,  for  the  sake  of 
the  deposit  it  may  leave  behind  ;  the  small  canals  are  cleared  out  for  this 
purpose  nearly  every  year.  Large  vessels  are  everywhere  seen,  and,  in 
place  of  the  legends  of  commination  which  adorn  our  walls,  the  smallest  con- 
tribution is  invited  and  thankfully  received,  ay,  even  paid  for. 

The  farm,  however  small,  is  not  so  much  the  estate  of  an  individual  pro- 
prietor, as  the  home  of  a  family,  or  seat  of  a  clan,  many  generations  of  which, 
under  one  acknowledged  head  or  patriarch,  are  often  congregated  in  the  same 
dwelling.  As  the  farm-houses  in  general  differ  but  little  from  each  other, 
except  in  size,  I  will  endeavor  to  give  the  reader  a  description  of  one. 

In  a  small  island,  formed  by  a  moat  for  the  supply  of  water  and  the  rear- 
ing of  ducks  and  geese,  well  sheltered  by  bamboos  and  other  trees,  and 
nearly  hid  from  view,  stands  the  house,  consisting  of  one  floor  only,  built, 
when  possible,  of  stone,  in  other  cases  of  brick  (of  so  superior  a  quality  as 
to  become  an  article  of  commerce  with  this  country,  and  to  find  its  way  to 
Liverpool),  or  of  wood.  In  the  center  is  a  large  hall  called  the  "Hall  of 
Ancestors"  common  to  all  the  family.  In  it  are  arranged  the  household  gods 
(among  which  are  invariably  the  Taouist  divinities  presiding  over  hearing 
and  sight),  and  relics,  such  as  an  ancestral  picture,  in  the  most  conspicuous 
part  of  the  wall,  on  each  side  of  which  is  an  aphorism  of  Confucius,  and  in 
front  a  table  bearing  incense  burners  and  fruits  as  offerings,  and  ornamental 
porcelain  vases,  etc.  The  hall  also  serves  for  a  drying-room  for  their  seeds, 
and  a  depository  for  the  smaller  implements  of  husbandry.  It  is  the  scene 
of  their  entertainments,  many  of  their  festivals,  and  the  adoration  of  the  gods, 
but  never  used  for  culinary  purposes.  This  forms  the  nucleus  of  the  building; 
13 


194  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 

around  it  are  the  dwelling  rooms  of  the  different  divisions  of  the  tribe ;  and 
as  often  as  a  marriage  takes  place  an  apartment  is  added  for  the  newly- 
wedded  couple,  and,  in  time,  the  whole  presents  rather  the  appearance  of  a 
village  than  a  single  dwelling-house.  The  furniture  of  each  family  consists 
of  a  bed  highly  ornamented,  in  many  cases  carved  and  richly  inlaid  with 
ivory ;  a  few  high-backed  chairs,  often  of  bamboo  ;  a  plain  polished  round 
table ;  washing  utensils  of  brass ;  and,  in  one  corner  of  the  room,  cooking 
utensils  consisting  of  a  block  fire-place,  in  which  a  few  round  pans  are  sei 
with  masonry,  though  in  the  larger  establishments  the  kitchen  is  a  separate 
building :  around  the  room  are  several  red  varnished  cabinets,  and  in  these 
apartments  the  females  are  employed  in  the  household  duties  of  needlework, 
spinning,  etc.,  a  spinning-wheel  and  loom  forming  necessary  appendages  to 
each  farm-house  in  those  parts  where  cotton  is  grown.  Nearly  everything 
for  the  use  of  the  family  is  home-made — agricultural  instruments  are  home- 
made and  repaired  ;  cotton  is  grown,  and  spun,  and  made  into  clothes ; 
silk-worms  are  reared,  and  all  the  process  of  winding  and  weaving  done  by 
the  family  ;  flour  is  ground,  cakes  are  baked,  and  sain  shoo  is  distilled  from 
rice,  and  as  much  as  required  stored,  the  rest,  and  whatever  other  produce 
not  wanted  for  home  consumption,  is  either  exchanged  for  other  necessaries 
among  the  neighbors,  or  sent  to  some  town  in  the  vicinity  to  find  a  market. 
In  Kiang-tsu,  where  that  species  of  cloth  better  known  under  the  name  of 
nankin  is  made,  the  drapers,  who  are  proprietors  of  large  houses  in  the  cities, 
hire  stalls  outside  the  walls  and  meet  the  farmers  on  the  road  and  buy  their 
cloth,  paying  in  bills  drawn  on  their  own  houses. 

The  livestock  consists  of  a  liberal  supply  of  fowls,  ducks,  geese,  goats, 
and  pigs,  and  a  dog  or  two  (scarcely  any  family,  however  poor,  is  without 
one  or  more  of  the  latter  two),  together  with  one  or  two  bullocks  and  buffa- 
loes according  to  the  labor  required.  The  buffalo  is  almost  an  amphibious 
animal,  being  constantly  in  the  water.  The  implements  are  very  simple  and 
primitive  —  I  may  almost  say  barbarous.  The  plow  has  no  coulter,  and 
but  one  handle,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  share,  is  entirely  of  wood.  It 
is  drawn  by  a  single  bullock  or  buffalo,  by  means  of  a  trace  passing  before  the 
breast  with  a  strap  over  the  shoulders. 

The  principal  crop  in  the  parts  I  visited  is  rice.  The  land  being  highly 
manured  yields  two  crops  per  year  ;  but  it  was  observable  in  the  year  1845 
in  the  north  and  east  valleys  in  Chusan,  three  crops  were  taken  from  most 
of  the  fields.  During  the  growth  all  weeds  are  culled,  and  anything  that 
might  obstruct  the  crop  or  unnecessarily  draw   the  land,  carefully  removed. 

Corn  and  vegetable  lands  are  usually  productive  of  three  crops,  as  the  fol- 
lowing :  The  corn  seed  is  sown  in  rows,  between  every  two  of  which  is  a 
row  of  cotton,  beans  or  other  vegetable  (the  cotton  is  an  annual).  At  har- 
vest-time the  corn  is  reaped,  and  the  field,  all  yellow  to-day,  is  beautifully 
green  to-morrow,  the  cotton  being  about  six  or  eight  inches  high;  the  minutest 
portion  of  stubble  is  removed  by  women  and  stored  up  for  manure,  and  the 
field  weeded  ;  the" cotton,  on  coming  to  maturity,  is  plucked,  the  tree  plowed 
in  for  manure,  and  the  field  prepared  for  the  third  crop  of  clover,  vege- 
tables, or  a  kind  of  sesame  ;  if  clover,  only  a  part  is  cut  and  the  rest  plowed 
13 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHItfA.  195 

in  for  manure.  Fallows  are  unknown,  and  from  the  constant  manuring,  the 
land  is  enabled  to  produce  at  the  above  rate  with  little  variation  without  be- 
coming exhausted.  In  tea  plantations  and  orchards  of  all  kinds  the  land  is 
equally  worked. 

In  each  province  there  is  generally  a  paved  high  road  from  one  Foo  to 
another,  and  sometimes,  but  not  often,  to  a  Heen  ;  these  roads  are  in  good 
order  and  about  six  feet  broad,  beside  these  are  the  footpaths  which  skirt 
the  fields  as  boundaries,  but  are  sometimes  very  inconvenient  to  the  traveler 
from  the  tortuous  courses  they  take,  as  sometimes  you  start  off  at  right 
angles  from  the  object  of  your  journey  ;  beside  these  and  the  canals,  a  stone 
often  divides  two  properties.  In  this  way  the  country  is  perfectly  open,  save 
where  here  and  there  dotted  with  picturesque  farm-houses,  joss-houses,  and 
bosquets  of  bamboo. 

The  bamboo  here  deserves  a  passing  mention,  as  I  know  no  plant  so  useful 
for  so  many  purposes  as  the  Chinese  make  it.  There  is  scarcely  a  trade  or 
manufacture  among  them  that  is  not  more  or  less  assisted  by  it,  while  its 
early  shoots  form  one  of  the  choicest  edibles  as  a  vegetable  preserve  and 
pickle.  In  early  times,  before  books  were  compiled,  all  records  were  carved 
on  slips  of  bamboo.  The  most  elegant  household  furniture,  chairs,  sofas, 
tables,  beds,  and  even  the  pillars,  to  support  the  house  itself,  are  made  of  it. 

The  curiosity-maker,  the  toy  maker,  the  carpenter,  the  agriculturist,  are 
indebted  to  it.  The  masts  of  boats  and  small  ships,  beside  a  long  list  of 
other  marine  paraphernalia,  are  from  its  wood,  clothing  from  its  fiber,  and 
lampwicks  from  its  pith  ;  the  soldier  and  sailor,  the  clerk  and  civilian,  carry 
it  as  pike-handles,  and  arrows,  and  pencils.  I  have  in  my  own  possession  a 
jacket,  for  an  under-garment,  made  of  it,  like  network,  to  be  worn  next  the 
skin  in  hot  weather.  The  housebreaker  finds  it  an  assistant  of  his  crime  in 
his  own  hands  and  his  repentance  in  those  of  the  executioner. 

It  is  forbidden  to  plow,  feed  cattle,  or  cut  wood  in  the  places  where  empe- 
rors, kings,  princes,  saints,  sages,  faithful  ministers,  and  other  illustrious 
worthies  are  buried.  Now,  as  it  is  apt  to  please  each  and  every  farmer  and 
others  to  vote  his  or  their  immediate  predecessors  "  the  illustrious  dead," 
the  actual  farm  is  sometimes  diminished  by  the  frequency  of  these  ancestral 
monuments.  But  I  do  not  know  that  we  should  grudge  them  that  whim 
when  they  make  so  good  use  of  the  rest  of  the  land  ;  and  if  some  of  the 
above  particulars  may  not  square  with  European  notions  of  econom)?-,  among 
their  fruits  may  be  mentioned  the  most  contented,  good-humored,  well- 
fed,  industrious,  and  happy  population  that,  in  the  course  of  sixteen  years 
of  service  in  the  navy,  and  rambles  in  most  parts  of  the  globe,  I  have  ever 
met  with. 

"  Great  attention  is  paid  in  China  to  the  cultivation  of  the  mulberry,  and 
there  are  more  than  twenty  different  works  by  Chinese  authors,  devoted  to 
delineating  the  various  processes  attending  to  the  manufacture  of  silk,  many 
of  which  are  illustrated.  The  manufacture  of  this  elegant  article  of  dress 
originated  with  the  Chinese,  and  its  introduction  to  the  nations  of  the  west 
has  been  comparatively  modern.  Half  of  all  the  garments  worn  by  th« 
Chinese,  are  supplied  alone  from  this  branch  of  industry. 


196  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 

"  Among  the  branches  of  Chinese  industry,  the  growth  and  preparation  of 
tea  has  been  most  celebrated  abroad,  and  the  gradual  introduction  and  use 
of  this  beverage  among  the  nations  of  the  west,  and  the  important  conse- 
quences of  bringing  the  two  into  more  intimate  intercourse,  and  opening  to 
the  Chinese  the  blessings  of  Christian  civilization,  resulting  from  the  trade, 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  results  that  ever  flowed  from  commerce.  Tea, 
gunpowder,  printing,  and  the  compass,  are  four  things  which  have  worked 
marvelous  changes  in  the  social  condition,  intercourse,  disputes,  and  mental 
improvement  of  mankind  ;  and  probably  all  of  them  are  traceable  to  China 
and  Chinese  ingenuity.  The  plant  grows  in  almost  every  part  of  China,  in 
Corea,  Japan,  Annam,  and  the  adjacent  regions,  and  its  infusion  forms  a 
common  beverage  for  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  human  race.  Its  progress 
has  been  gradual  in  all  those  countries,  and  in  Europe  it  has  been  well  com- 
pared to  that  of  truth  :  suspected  at  first,  though  very  palatable  to  those 
who  had  the  courage  to  taste  it;  resisted  as  it  encroached;  abused  as  its  popu- 
larity seemed  to  spread,  and  establishing  its  triumph  at  last  in  cheering  the 
whole  land,  from  the  palace  to  the  cottage,  only  by  the  slow  and  resistless 
effects  of  time,  and  its  own  virtues. 

The  knowledge  of  the  tea  plant  can  be  traced  back  among  the  Chinese, 
almost  three  and  a  half  centuries  before  Christ;  but  it  has  been  in  general  use 
among  them  only  about  ten  centuries.  The  plant  is  generally  from  three  to 
six  feet  high,  and  in  Assam  it  has  been  found  growing  wild  to  the  height  of 
thirty  .feet.  It  usually  presents  a  dense  mass  of  foliage,  on  an  infinite  number 
of  small  twigs,  a  result  of  the  practice  of  cutting  it  down.  The  leaf  is  of  a 
dark  green  color  of  an  oblong,  oval  shape,  and  the  flowers  are  white,  with- 
out smell  and  single  ;  the  seeds  resemble  hazel-nuts  in  size  and  color,  three 
of  them  being  inclosed  in  a  hard  nut  and  so  oily  as.  to  corrupt  soon  after 
ripening,  this  oil  is  rather  acrid  and  bitter,  but  is  useful  for  various  purposes. 

Tea  is  usually  raised  by  individuals  who  cultivate  a  few  dozen  or  scores  of 
shrubs  upon  their  own  lands,  and  either  cure  the  leaves  themselves,  or  sell 
them  to  their  neighbors  after  assorting  them  according  to  their  quality.  There 
are  very  large  plantations  under  the  care  of  rich  landlords,  but  each  little 
farmer  raises  tea  as  he  does  cotton,  silk  or  rice  upon  his  own  premises.  The 
seeds  are  thickly  planted  in  nursery  beds,  because  many  of  them  fail  from 
their  oily  nature,  and  when  the  nurslings  are  a  foot  or  more  high  they  are 
transplanted  into  rows  of  about  four  feet  or  more  apart.  No  preparation  of 
the  ground  is  necessary,  nor  is  much  care  taken  to  keep  the  shrubs  in  a 
healthy  state.  The  produce  of  old  and  celebrated  nurseries  is  carefully  col- 
lected and  cured  by  itself,  and  one  native  authority  states  that  the  prices  of 
these  particular  lots  vary  from  $15,  to  $100  per  pound.  The  average 
yield  of  the  plant  is  six  ounces  ;  four  crops  of  leaves  are  gathered  during  the 
season,  and  on  these  occasions,  the  whole  population,  men,  women,  and 
children,  find  employment.     The  two  last  being  inferior  are  not  exported. 

The  quality  of  the  different  kinds  of  tea  depends  almost  as  much  upon  the 
mode  of  curing,  as  upon  the  nature  of  the  soil,  or  the  age  of  the  leaf.  Some 
sorts  are  quite  changed  in  their  particular  flavor  by  the  curing  and  mixing 
processes  they  undergo.     The  difference  in  the  color  of  black  and  green  tea 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN   CHINA.  197 

is  wholly  owing  to  the  mode  of  preparation.  The  difference  in  taste,  douot- 
less,  arises  from  the  greater  portion  of  the  oil  left  remaining  in  the  green  tea, 
and  it  is  this,  it  is  supposed,  which  occasions  the  peculiar  effects  upon  the 
nerves,  ascribed  to  drinking  green  tea,  and  not  its  being  cured  upon  copper, 
as  has  frequently  been  erroneously  stated." 

The  Chinese  bill  of  fare  may  be  said  to  include  everything  animal  and 
vegetable,  that  nature  will  digest,  together  with  some  few  items  of  minerals, 
with  the  exception  of  milk  and  its  preparations.  It  is  only  for  the  use  of 
foreigners  that  cows  and  goats  are  ever  milked,  but  otherwise  no  part  of  the 
animal  is  lost ;  but  when  one  is  killed,  the  blood  is  carefully  collected,  the 
hair  is  removed,  and  the  skin  and  offal  apportioned  in  lots,  and  sold. 

Poultry,  game,  and  fish,  all  kinds  of  grains,  vegetables,  fruits,  are  to  be 
had  in  the  different  parts  of  the  empire,  abundant  in  quantity,  and  excellent 
in  quality.  Some,  together  with  the  dishes  made  from  them,  were  new  to 
me ;  such,  for  instance,  was  the  King  of  Cabbages,  indigenous  to  the  Shang- 
tung  province,  which  would  form  a  splendid  acquisition  in  England  to  the 
cattle  grazier  ;  it  is  a  thick-set  cabbage,  perfectly  white,  and  so  close,  that 
when  required  to  be  kept,  removing  an  outside  leaf  or  two  about  once  a  week, 
will  make  it  last  for  many  months ;  it  has  found  its  way,  I  hear,  to  Paris, 
where  it  is  known  as  the  "  Chou  de  Nankin."  It  is  used  as  a  simple  veget- 
able, cooked,  or  "  au  naturel,"  or  in  winter,  a  most  excellent  mild  salad,  and 
the  Chinese  salt  and  pickle,  both  this  and  other  cabbages,  and  make  a  kind 
of  sourkrout.     It  frequently  weighs  twenty  pounds. 

Most  European  and  tropical  fruits  flourish  in  different  parts  of  the  country, 
according  to  the  climate,  and  a  large  trade  in  fruits  is  carried  on  by  means 
of  junks,  these  are  mostly  preserved,  in  different  modes,  moist  and  dry, 
whole,  and  in  shreds,  with  vinegar  or  sugar,  which  latter,  in  the  province  of 
Fo-kien,  and  the  island  of  Formosa,  is  grown  and  manufactured  in  high  per- 
fection, but  is  never  used  to  sweeten  tea.  Honey  is  abundant,  oils  are  ex- 
tracted from  the  olive,  sesame,  cotton-seed,  several  kinds  of  cabbage,  pork- 
fat,  and  fish,  which,  together  with  the  castor-oil,  are  all  used  for  culinary 
purposes  ;  the  use  of  the  latter,  for  any  purpose  other  than  a  medicine,  is,  I 
should  suppose,  peculiar  to  the  Chinese  ;  it  is  expressed  through  a  cullender, 
and  when  fresh,  has  not  the  aroma  that  it  afterward  acquires. 

Ducks'  eggs  are  in  great  requisition,  and  in  order  to  meet  the  demand  for 
them,  great  numbers  are  kept  on  all  the  navigable  rivers  and  canals,  in  float- 
ing poultry-houses.  They  are  under  very  remarkable  discipline,  they  go  out 
to  feed,  and  return  home  with  wonderful  expedition,  and  at  a  word  from 
their  masters,  will  do  almost  anything  that  can  be  required  of  them ;  he 
stands  meanwhile  at  the  entrance,  and  flogs  the  straggler,  and  rewards  the 
foremost.  They  are  never  allowed  to  hatch  their  own  eggs,  almost  all  towns 
having  ovens  for  that  purpose.  The  eggs  of  all  birds  are  used,  but  those  of 
the  ducks  are  salted  in  the  shells,  as  is  the  flesh  also,  for  sea  stores.  Consid- 
erable quantities  of  fish  are  salted  and  dried  ;  the  collared  eel  is  very  fire, 
but  none  are  thrown  away,  blubber  even  is  eaten,  as  are  water-snakes,  frogs, 
toads,  shell-fish  of  every  species,  tortoises,  snails,  gelatinous  worms  and 
lizards. 


198  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHIN  a 

The  various  grains  are  used  in  making  unleavened  bread,  not  unlike  a 
muffin  in  appearance,  cooked  on  the  side  of  a  portable  oven,  and  generally  by 
steam,  together  with  pastry  of  divers  sorts,  among  which,  are  some  very  simi- 
lar to  European,  as  wafers,  sponge-cakes,  etc.,  which  would  be  palatable 
enough,  were  it  not  for  the  introduction  of  a  lump  of  pork-fat,  discoverable 
only  by  the  uninitiated,  at  a  most  disagreeable  period.  The  introduction 
of  pork-fat  into  these  articles  of  Chinese  gastronomy  is  universal  and 
disgusting. 

Imported  are  Ginseng,  a  kind  of  liquorice,  which  was  formerly  a  royal  mo- 
nopoly, and  could  only  be  grown  on  the  EmperOr's  property,  in  the  north, 
but  has  latterly  been  introduced  from  Canada,  and  some  parts  of  the  United 
States  ;  and  birds'-nests  of  the  sea-swallow,  a  transparent  substance,  in  ap- 
pearance somewhat  resembling  a  gum,  reckoned  a  great  delicacy,  and  sold 
at  very  high  prices.  I  have  seen  four  or  five,  when  very  clear,  weighing  only 
three  or  four  ounces  each,  sell  for  thirty  dollars.  They  are  brought  from 
the  islands  of  the  Eastern  Archipelago,  as  likewise  are  Beches-de-mer,  or 
sea-slugs,  brown  looking  snails,  about  six  or  seven  inches  long.  They  are  an 
expensive  luxury,  as  are  the  exotic  dainties  of  roes,  sounds,  tripe,  fins,  and 
tails  of  sharks.  Great  art  is  shown  in  dressing  all  these  delicacies  ;  the 
cookery  is  perhaps  a  little  richer  than  most  English  palates  would  relish,  but 
some  of  the  stews,  soups,  and  made  dishes,  are  excellent. 

"  Travelers  hear,  beforehand,  that  the  Chinese  devour  everything,  and  on 
their  arrival  in  the  country,  straightway  inquire  if  rats,  mice,  and  cats,  are 
eaten,  and  hearing  that  such  is  the  case,  perpetuate  the  idea,  that  they  form 
the  common  articles  of  food.  They  are,  doubtless,  eaten  now  and  then,  as 
are  many  other  undesirable  things  by  those  who  are  compelled  by  want,  but 
to  put  these  and  some  other  disgusting  eatables  in  the  front  of  the  list  gives 
a  false  idea  of  the  every-day  food  of  the  Chinese. 

The  various  modes  of  catching  and  rearing  fish  exhibit  the  skill  and  con- 
trivance of  the  people  of  China,  thirty-six  millions  of  whom,  it  is  estimated; 
derive  their  food  from  the  water.  Necessity  compels  them  to  invent  and  try 
many  ingenious  ways  of  securing  the  finny  tribes.  The  smacks,  which  swarm 
along  the  coast  go  out  in  pairs  to  join  in  dragging  the  nets  fastened  to  their 
boats.  In  the  shallows  of  rivers  rows  of  heavy  posts  are  driven  down  and 
nets  secured  to  them,  which  are  examined  and  changed  at  every  tide.  Those 
who  attend  these  nets,  moreover  attach  scoops,  or  drag-nets,  to  their  boats  so 
loaded  that  they  will  sink  and  gather  fish  feeding  near  the  bottoms.  Lift- 
ing nets,  twenty  feet  square,  are  supended  from  poles  elevated  and 
depressed  by  a  hawser,  worked  by  a  windlass  on  shore ;  the  nets  are  baited 
with  the  whites  of  eggs  spread  on  the  meshes. 

Cormorants  are  trained,  in  great  numbers  in  the  eastern  provinces,  to  cap- 
ture fish  and  are  sometimes  under  such  good  order,  that  they  will  disperse  at 
a  given  signal  and  return  with  their  prey  without  the  precaution  of  a  neck- 
ring.  If  one  seizes  a  fish  too  heavy  for  him  alone,  another  comes  to  his 
assistance  and  the  two  carry  it  aboard  the  boat  of  their  master,  which  they 
will  distinguish  amid  a  fleet  of  the  same  kind.  In  moonlight  nights,  low, 
narrow  shallops,  provided  with  a  wide  white  board  fastened  to  the  wale  and 


FORBES'  FIVE   YEARS   IN   CHINA.  193 

floating  upon  the  water,  are  anchored  in  still  water;  the  moon  shinmg  upoi. 
the  board,  the  deceived  fish  leap  out  upon  it  or  into  the  boat.  Sometimes  a 
boat,  furnished  with  a  treadle,  goes  up  and  down  near  the  shores,  striking 
boards  against  its  bottom  and  sides  ;  the  startled  fish  are  caught  in  the  net 
dragging  astern.  The  crews  of  man}7  small  boats  combine  to  drive  the  fish 
into  their  nets  by  splashing  and  striking  the  water,  or  into  a  pool  on  the  mar- 
gin of  the  river,  at  high  tide,  in  which  they  are  easily  retained  by  wattles, 
and  scooped  out  when  the  water  has  fallen.  Divers  clap  sticks  together, 
under  water,  to  drive  their  prey  into  the  nets  set  for  them,  or  catch  them 
with  their  toes,  when,  terrified  at  the  noise,  they  hide  in  the  mud.  By  these 
and  other  contrivances  the  Chinese  capture  the  finny  tribes,  and  it  is  no  sur- 
prise to  hear  that  China  contains  as  many  millions  of  people  as  there  are  days 
in  the  year,  when  one  sees  upon  what  a  large  proportion  of  them  feed  and 
how  they  live." 

Learning  assumes  its  proper  position  in  the  flowery  land,  and  is  the  key  to 
all  the  civil  offices  under  the  crown :  the  highest  employe  is  the  best  scholar, 
without  regard  to  birth.  Sons  of  peasants  contend  in  the  race  for  preferment 
with  members  of  the  imperial  family ;  and  no  one,  who  can  pass  the  requisite 
examinations,  with  the  exception  of  the  three  excluded  classes  of  boatmen, 
coolies,  and  actors,  need  despair  of  promotion  ;  but  no  civil  appointment  can 
be  held  without  a  literary  qualification.  "A  stone  uncut  forms  no  gem  ;  a 
man  unlearned  knows  not  good  principles,"  are  Chinese  sayings.  Every 
province  is,  as  it  were,  a  university  of  itself,  of  which  the  inhabitants  are  born 
members  ;  and  many  a  scholar  finishes  a  long  life  before  his  education  is 
complete.  On  entering  some  of  the  poorest  establishments,  very  often  a  little 
fellow  may  be  seen  sitting  on  a  high  stool  behind  the  counter,  reading  to  him- 
self most  intently  and  aloud.  He  is  the  child  of  parents  whose  poverty  com- 
pels them,  for  want  of  an  assistant,  to  keep  their  sons  alternately  at  home  for 
a  day  to  mind  the  shop.  Having  served  the  customers,  who  have  perhaps 
had  to  bawl  pretty  loudly  in  his  ear  to  engage  his  attention,  with  as  little  loss 
of  time  as  possible  ;  he  remembers  the  proverb  his  mother  has  so  often 
dinned  into  his  ear,  that  '*  It  is  better  to  be  a  fowl's  back  than  a  cow's  tail," 
and  sets  to  work  again  in  the  hope  of  keeping  pace  with  his  brother,  whose 
time  for  staying  at  home  comes  to-morrow.  The  village-school  is  generally 
attached  to  the  joss-house  (once  for  all  as  the  word  is  likely  to  recur,  the 
word  joss  means  a,  god,  and  joss-house  a  temple),  and  is  supported  partly  by 
government  and  partly  by  the  fathers  of  the  pupils,  consisting  of  a  master, 
often  a  very  superior  man,  and  twenty  or  thirty  boys,  each  of  whom  has  his 
separate  chair,  table,  books,  and  a  piece  of  wood,  painted  white  to  serve  as  a 
slate,  on  which  he  writes  with  a  camel's  hair  brush  and  Indian  ink  ;  while 
learning  his  lesson,  he  reads  aloud.  The  din  of  so  many  voices  at  once,  on 
my  entering  a  school,  often  reminded  me  of  my  experience  of  the  Bell  system 
in  England,  in  days  of  yore  ;  every  youngster,  on  the  approach  of  a  stranger, 
straining  his  throat  to  the  loudest  pitch.  Near  the  door  in  awful  dignity, 
with  spectacles  on  his  nose,  sits  the  dominie  behind  a  table,  bearing  the  very 
unacademical  pipe  and  tea-tray,  with  some  future  mandarin  swinging  his 
body  to  and  fro  like  a  mast  in  a  storm,  stumbling  over  a  saying  of  Confu- 


200  .  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN   CHINA. 

cius  that  he  has  just  learned  by  heart,  and  trying  to  make  himself  heard 
amid  the  confused  howling  of  the  rest. 

"  To  bring  up  a  child  without  education  is  a  crime  in  the  father,  to  educate 
without  due  severity  betrays  sloth  in  a  teacher,"  a  charge  not  often  brought 
home  to  the  latter  worthy,  whose  cane  has  by  no  means  a  sinecure  of  it, 
The  first  idea  of  writing  is  gained  by  placing  thin  transparent  paper  over  the 
characters  and  so  copying  them  ;  after  that  the  tablet  above-mentioned  is 
used  with  Indian  ink,  easily  washed  out  with  a  little  water. 

The  appearance  of  the  young  dog  is  the  same  everywhere.  "  The  whining 
school-boy,  with  his  satchel,  and  shining  morning  face,  creeping  like  snail, 
unwillingly  to  school,"  if  he  meet  another  boy  on  the  road,  causes  himself  a 
flogging  for  being  detained  by  a  game  of  hop-scotch,  which  is  as  popular 
among  the  rising  generation  of  China  as  of  England.  From  about  eight  to 
ten  is  the  age  of  attendance  at  the  village-schools.  The  salaries  of  the  mas- 
ters are,  I  am  afraid,  small ;  they  are  very  courteous  and  respectable  men  ; 
but  their  domestic  establishments  are  very  humble.  After  gaining  the  rudi- 
ments of  education  at  school,  or  from  his  father,  or  some  professor  his  friend, 
the  aspirant  may,  at  his  leisure,  it  would  seem,  next  look  to  becoming  a  candi- 
date for  the  first  of  the  four  degrees  of  literary  honors. 

Such  is  the  encouragement  given  by  government  to  learning,  that  the  best 
education  which  the  country  affords,  may  be  procured  on  the  most  moderate 
terms.  Certain  magistrates  are  appointed  in  every  province,  to  take  charge 
of  the  candidates  for  offices  under  government,  to  direct  them  in  their  studies, 
and  twice  a  year  to  hold  public  examinations,  when  small  presents  are  distri- 
buted to  the  most  deserving.  At  Pekin,  is  a  grand  National  College,  which 
is  supported  by  government ;  the  members  of  which  are  the  chief  literati  of 
the  empire.  Nothing,  however,  but  old  established  principles  are'  taught;  tht 
scholar  of  the  present  day,  must  not  venture  to  go  beyond  the  sages  of  an- 
cient times  ;  learning  is,  consequently,  at  a  complete  stand-still.  As  a  further 
encouragement  to  literature,  the  press  is  left  free,  and  any  one  may  print  what 
he  pleases,  taking  his  risk  of  the  consequences ;  the  government  being  very 
rigid  in  suppressing  "  wicked,  corrupt,  and  seditious  publications,"  and  in 
punishing  their  authors. 

V  History  has  always  been  the  object  of  attention,  and  the  Chinese  annals 
form  the  most  complete  and  continuous,  that  exist  in  any  language.  The  cus- 
tom of  competition,  has  given  a  powerful  stimulus  to  political  and  philosophic 
eloquence.  Literary  history,  criticism,  and  biography,  are  the  subjects  of 
a  crowd  of  works,  remarkable  for  their  order  and  regularity.  The  Chinese 
possess  many  translations  of  books  from  the  Sanscrit,  (the  learned  language 
of  Hindoostan)  upon  religion  and  metaphysics.  They  have  lyric,  narrative, 
and  descriptive  poems,  theatrical  pieces,  romances  of  manners,  and  romances, 
wherein  the  marvelous  prevails.  They  possess,  beside,  a  great  number  of 
special  and  general  collections,  libraries,  and  encyclopedias,  and  in  the  last 
century,  they  began  the  printing  of  a  collection  of  select  works,  in  180,000 
volumes  !  Notes,  glossaries,  commentaries,  catalogues,  indices,  extracts  ar- 
ranged in  the  order  of  subjects,  lend  their  aid  to  facilitate  research.  They 
have  excellent  dictionaries,  in  which  all  the  symbols  of  their  writing,  and  all 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  201 

the  words  of  their  language  are  explained,  with  the  greatest  care,  and  in 
very  regular  order.  Books  are  printed  upon  silk  paper,  and  as  this  paper  is 
extremely  fine,  they  are  obliged  to  print  only  upon  one  side  ;  the  parts  are 
classed,  numbered,  and  paged  ;  finally,  there  is  not  even  in  Europe,  a  nation 
that  has  so  many  books,  books  so  well  made,  so  commodious  for  consultation, 
and  at  so  low  a  price ;  and  notwithstanding,  there  is  no  country  where  real 
science  and  literature  are  at  a  lower  ebb. 

*'  Geography  has  been  cultivated  from  the  most  ancient  times  ;  a  fact  which 
is  proved  by  the  descriptions  of  the  empire,  given  in  a  work  issued  five  cen- 
turies before  Christ.  The  imperial  geography  forms  260  volumes,  in  quarto, 
with  maps  and  plans ;  it  embraces  every  topic ;  topography,  hydrography, 
monuments,  antiquities,  natural  curiosities,  industry,  productions,  commerce, 
agriculture,  government,  population,  general  history,  biography,  and  biblio- 
graphy. Astronomy  has  always  been  held  in  honor,  but  its  progress  has 
been  very  limited.  Their  knowledge  of  mathematical  science,  appears  to  be 
very  low :  they  use  the  decimal  system  of  arithmetic,  and  execute  with  rapi- 
dity, all  its  operations,  by  means  of  a  machine,  the  swanpan,  the  use  of  which 
has  passed  into  Russia  and  Poland.  Their  medical  science  is  mixed  with 
superstitious  practices,  and  founded  upon  imaginary  theories.  They  have 
good  books  of  medical  natural  history,  accompanied  with  plates." 

The  religion  of  the  Chinese  is  Buddhism.  The  Emperor,  as  great  father 
of  the  nation,  is  the  high -priest  of  this,  the  ancient  State  religion  of  China, 
and  permits  no  one  but  the  mandarins,  his  representatives,  to  officiate  at  the 
sacred  rites,  performed  in  honor  of  the  principal  deities.  Further  than  this, 
religion  is  not  connected  with,  or  supported  by,  the  government,  and  there  is 
an  entire  freedom  in  religion.  "  Buddhism  appears  in  China,  with  its  doctrine 
of  transmigration,  its  numerous  images,  its  monastic  institutions,  its  bells  and 
beads,  its  noisy  music,  and  its  peculiar  dress  ;  all  giving  it  a  strong  resem- 
blance to  the  Catholic  worship."  Beside  the  prevailing  religion,  there  is  that 
of  Confucius,  Taouism,  and  nearly  all  the  forms  of  mythology  known  to  his- 
tory, with  deities  innumerable,  who  are  supposed  to  preside  over  everything 
in  creation,  from  celestial  affairs  even  down  to  the  economy  of  the  kitchen. 

Confucius,  the  patriarch  of  Chinese  literature,  though  an  object  of  worship 
himself,  was  not  intentionally  the  founder  of  a  new  creed.  The  aim  of  his 
studies  was  merely  a  system  of  moral  philosophy,  that  might  put  an  end  to 
the  troubles  and  rebellions  that,  during  his  lifetime,  distracted  his  country 
and  enable  man  to  attain  a  greater  degree  of  happiness  in  this  world,  by 
learning,  in  short,  "  that  useful  science  to  be  good."  The  leading  feature  of 
his  doctrine  is  filial  piety,  and  submission  to  parental  authority.  "  Under  the 
five  modes  of  punishment,  there  are  three  thousand  crimes,  but  the  greatest 
of  these  is  undutifulness  to  parents."  "  He  that  doeth  good,  heaven  will  re- 
ward him  with  good ;  but  he  that  doeth  evil,  heaven  will  recompense  him 
with  evil."  But  it  is  not  clear  that  he  had  any  definite  knowledge  of  the  ex- 
istence of  a  superior  being  beyond  the  heavens  that  he  saw,  and  he  always 
parried  the  questions  put  to  him  by  his  disciples  concerning  a  future  state. 
But  as  a  moralist  he  was  no  ordinary  man,  and  has  influenced  the  habits  of 
thought  of  more   of  his   kind,  than  any  other  uninspired   authority.      Ho 


202  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN"  CHINA. 

stamped  his  character  on  his  age  and  country  ;  and  at  this  day,  after  a  lapse 
of  more  than  two  thousand  years,  a  knowledge  of  such  of  his  works  as  are 
extant,  may  raise  the  son  of  a  peasant  to  the  highest  civil  rank  under  the 
sovereign,  and  has  done  so  for  many. 

He  was  born  in  the  year  551,  B.  C.  His  birth  is  said  to  have  been  at- 
tended with  extraordinary  prodigies,  all  emblematic  of  his  future  greatness ; 
among  the  rest  various  marks  were  found  on  his  body,  and  for  the  first  and 
last  time  the  mysterious  animal  the  Kelmg  appeared  alive  on  earth  ;  the  recol- 
lection of  which  is  preserved  by  a  representation  of  it  on  the  wall  of  every 
house  inhabited  by  a  mandarin. 

Having  lost  his  father  when  only  three  years  of  age,  he  was  left  to  the 
guardianship  of  an  excellent  mother,  whose  care  he  repaid  with  the  utmost 
affection  and  reverence.  His  personal  appearance  was  remarkable,  his 
figure  was  gigantic,  and  his  complexion  of  almost  negro  blackness  ;  but  the 
gravity  and  dignity  of  his  deportment,  and  his  calm  and  benevolent  counte- 
nance commanded  respect.  The  task  of  his  education  was  not  very  burden- 
some to  his  mother,  learning  seemed  to  come  to  him  as  if  by  inspiration  ;  at 
school  he  soon  left  all  rivalry  behind,  and  at  the  age  of  seventeen  had 
mastered  whatever  Chinese  learning  had  then  to  oppose  him.  At  nineteen 
he  married,  and  in  due  time  he  had  a  son,  whom  he  named  Pih-yu  from  a 
present  of  carp  sent  him  by  the  King  of  Loo  ;  at  twenty  he  became  inspector 
of  pastures  and  flocks  in  his  native  province,  an  office  that  he  held  for  two 
years,  when,  at  the  death  of  his  mother,  he  set  the  example  since  universally 
followed  by  his  countrymen,  of  giving  up  all  government  employment  for  the 
next  three  years  after  the  death  of  a  parent.  This  seems  to  have  been  the 
crowning  period  of  the  life  of  Confucius,  and  perhaps  of  Chinese  history ;  he 
retired  to  indulge  his  grief  and  respect  for  his  mother,  and  to  mature  those 
plans  of  human  improvement  which  he  has  left  a  time-honored  inheritance  to 
his  nation. 

But  it  must  have  been  about  this  time  also  that  occurred  the  one  circum- 
stance that  in  a  Chinaman's  idea  would  leave  a  blot  on  his  character.  In  a 
country  where  divorces  are  of  rarer  occurrence  than  even  in  our  own,  and, 
for  any  other  reason  than  the  single  one  of  adultery,  in  the  highest  degree 
discreditable,  he  put  away  his  wife,  the  mother  of  his  only  son,  on  the  very 
insufficient  plea  that  the  married  state  interfered  with  his  studies. 

At  the  age  of  thirty  he  resolved  to  devote  the  remainder  of  his  life  to 
philosophy,  and  to  planning  some  oriental  whole  duty  of  man,  a  course 
which  he  pursued  as  steadily  as  the  political  commotions  of  the  times  would 
allow ;  and  having  attained  a  good  old  age,  was  gathered  to  his  fathers  in  his 
native  province  of  Loo,  now  part  of  Shangtung,  where  his  posterity  still 
reside  and  flourish. 

If  we  are  to  believe  tradition,  a  few  short  records,  carved  in  rude  hiero- 
glyphical  characters  on  bamboo  or  metal,  comprised  the  whole  literature  of 
nis  countrymen  before  his  time ;  and  Confucius  gave  them  the  four  branches 
of  philosophy,  classics,  politics,  and  history,  in  which  the  literary  degrees 
are  still  conferred.  The  main  root  of  his  system  is  filial  piety,  of  which  he 
Qiro^lf  set  so  brilliant  an  example  in  the  regard  he  always  showed  for  his 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  203 

mother.  He  taught  that  to  cast  away  the  remains  of  a  parent,  or  con- 
sign them  to  the  grave  with  little  more  ceremony  than  those  of  a  mere 
animal,  and  to  consider  that  as  the  last  duty  we  owed  them,  was  degrading 
to  the  dignity  of  man ;  but  that  by  periodically  repeating  some  act  of  homage 
to  our  ancestors  at  their  tombs,  or  before  some  representation  of  them  at 
home,  their  memories  would  be  cherished,  and  a  glow  of  filial  piety  and 
affection  would  be  kept  alive  to  transmit  to  posterity ;  and  the  same  practice 
being  continued  among  them  would,  as  it  were,  perpetuate  our  existence. 
This  may  be  the  reason  why  dying  without  male  issue  is  regarded  as  such  a 
calamity  ;  and  should  the  wife  fail  to  produce  a  son,  the  law  allows  the  sub- 
stitution of  one  or  more  concubines  to  prevent  the  name  becoming  extinct  in 
the  male  line. 

The  transition  from  such  homage  to  worship  would  be  easy  and  natural, 
and  the  practice  of  it  is  now  enforced  by  law;  no  excuse  exempts  any  one  ; 
the  priests  of  Taow  and  Fuh,  who  are  strictly  forbidden,  on  pain  of  punish- 
ment, to  perform  otherwise  the  rites  of  the  state  religion;  the  Mahometan  and 
the  proselyte  to  Christianity  are  all  enjoined,  and  readily  comply  with  the 
injunction,  to  visit  the  graves  of  their  immediate  parents,  and  worship  the 
manes  of  their  ancestors,  and  repair  the  tombs.  Two  festivals  are  held  in 
honor  of  Confucius,  and  upward  of  1560  temples  are  erected  to  his  memory. 
It  is  calculated  that  on  the  two  occasions  there  are  sacrificed,  every  year,  6 
bullocks,  27,000  pigs,  5,800  sheep,  22,800  deer,  and  27,000  rabbits  ;  beside 
27,000  pieces  of  silk  that  are  burnt  upon  his  altars.  But  the  patriarch  may 
have  influenced  the  belief  of  his  countrymen  in  one  particular,  the  effect  of 
which  may  be  in  the  womb  of  time  ;  in  the  sixth  century,  before  our  Savior, 
he  foretold  that  a  prophet  would  arise  in  the  west  whom  all  would  obey. 
Some  have  acknowledged  him  in  Buddha,  but  others  still  look  for  his  coming; 
and  it  need  be  no  great  stretch  of  the  imagination  to  suppose  that  as  the 
country  becomes  more  open  to  intercourse  with  foreigners,  this  prophesy  may 
assist,  as  it  may  have  done  already,  in  gaining  proselytes  to  one  or  other  of 
the  sects  of  Christianity. 

The  temples  of  Confucius  usually  cover  an  enormous  area  ;  one  establish- 
ment at  Ningpo  occupies  about  ten  acres  of  land,  laid  out  in  ornamental 
temples  of  all  sizes,  triumphal  entrances,  fountains  and  tanks,  and  courts 
planted  with  trees,  mostly  yew.  But,  except  on  occasion  of  a  festival,  these 
are  rarely  or  never  visited,  and  the  grass  grows  in  abundance  through  the 
interstices  of  the  pavement.  The  festivals  are  occasions  for  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  processions  I  ever  saw.  I  witnessed  one  in  Amoy,  at  which  were 
collected  all  the  literati  from  an  environ  of  upward  of  thirty  miles,  each 
man  carried  a  lantern  in  form  of  some  production  of  the  earth,  or  that  of  a 
bird,  quadruped,  or  fish.  The  larger  of  them  are  the  size  of  life,  and  drawn 
on  wheels,  they  were  made  of  thin  silk,  beautifully  painted  and  ornamented, 
and  lighted  up  with  candles  inside.  None  under  the  rank  of  Seu-tsaid  (the 
first  degree)  could  join  ;  all  were  in  full  dress,  all  walked,  with  the  exception 
of  mandarins  in  office,  who  were  carried  in  sedan-chairs,  and  every  man, 
beside  his  lantern,  carried  some  fruit,  tree,  fowl,  or  other  offering;  they 
walked  two  and  two,  and  in  rear  of  each   of  the  larger  animals,  such  as 


204  FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN    CHINA. 

elephants,  buffaloes,  etc.,  was  a  band.  The  whole  was  said  to  extend  three 
miles.  At  midnight  a  peal  of  cannon  thundered  from  the  walls,  and  the 
admiral  (Shuy-tse-tetuh),  the  senior  mandarin,  stepping  into  his  chair,  gave 
the  signal  to  advance,  when,  on  the  instant,  a  hundred  of  the  most  discordant 
bands  of  gongs  and  wind  instruments  struck  up  the  most  diabolical  noise,  and 
away  went  the  procession.  The  city  was  illuminated  with  lanterns  of  every 
make  and  shape,  the  men  were  supposed  to  find  places  for  themselves,  while 
in  front  of  each  house  were  platforms  for  the  ladies.  It  was  as  light  as  day, 
and  every  one,  being  well  dressed  in  silks  and  satins  of  the  gayest  colors,  gave 
the  whole  scene  an  appearance  of  immense  richness.  The  ladies  of  Amoy 
adorn  their  hair  with  innumerable  flowers,  which,  with  the  variety  of  color 
in  their  dress,  added  much  to  the  general  effect  as  the  procession  passed ; 
each  house  vied  with  its  opposite  neighbor  in  the  number  and  beauty  of  its 
various  lanterns  and  fireworks  ;  the  thunder  of  which  latter  were  quite 
a  relief  to  the  hideous  bellowings  of  the  band.  But  everything  went 
off  with  the  utmost  regularity  and  good-humor,  and  all  the  streets  of 
the  town  were  paraded  until  daylight  put  an  end  to  the  festival  of  the 
spring. 

Leaon  Keaun,  or  Leaow-tse,  the  founder  of  the  Taou,  or  sect  of  reason, 
was  a  cotemporary  of  Confucius,  but  his  followers  at  the  present  day  are 
not  numerous,  and  his  doctrines  nearly  obsolete.  What  few  temples  there 
are  remaining  are  supported  by  a  priesthood,  dressed  in  flowing  robes,  and 
differing  from  every  other  class  in  China,  except  the  Meaou-tse,  in  their 
mode  of  arranging  the  hair,  which  is  collected  into  a  knot  on  the  crown  of 
the  head,  and  not  plaited  into  a  cue,  or  tail.  Their  tenets  are  visionary  and 
mysterious.  The  earlier  proselytes,  like  hermits,  sought  solitudes  in  deserts 
and  caverns,  and  were  little  more  or  less  than  maniacs,  believing  in  all  sorts 
of  nonsense,  good  and  evil  spirits,  earthly  immortality,  and  terrestrial  para- 
dises, more  especially  Kwanlin,  the  seat  of  everything  that  was  delightful, 
situated  somewhere  in  the  west,  with  its  groves,  grottoes,  delicious  fruits, 
and  warbling  of  birds,  where  was  to  be  sought  the  great  pillar,  on  which  the 
world  rests,  measuring  three  hundred  thousand  miles  in  height,  and  the 
fountain  sparkling  with  the  waters  of  life,  one  drop  of  which  conferred  im- 
mortality. Of  the  few  remaining  temples,  that  at  Ningpo,  which  I  entered, 
contains,  among  its  godhead,  the  deities  of  the  cycle,  sixty  in  number,  one 
for  each  year.  The  chief  ceremony  performed,  but  which  I  had  no  oppor- 
tunity of  witnessing,  is  that  of  relieving  the  deity  on  the  last  day  of  the  year. 
Beside  these  are  the  gods  of  fire,  air,  earth  and  water,  and  the  genii  of  the 
hills,  rivers,  thunder  and  lightning,  etc.  One  struck  me  as  very  remarkable, 
it  was  a  female  figure,  surrounded  by  small  purses  and  pieces  of  silk,  tied  to 
every  convenient  part.  She  presided  over  conception  and  birth,  and  the  to- 
kens were  not  so  much  of  regard  to  the  goddess  as  to  keep  her  in  mind  of  the 
requests  of  the  votaries. 

There  is  scarcely  a  spot  of  real  natural  beauty  that  is  not  ornamented 
by  a  pagoda  or  other  Buddhist  temple.  A  natural  grotto,  let  its  access  be. 
ever  so  difficult  is  enlarged  and  altered  into  a  receptacle  for  idols. 

Of  all  the  joss-houses  I  have  visited,  that  of  Tien  T'hung,  in  the  province 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  205 

of  Che-Kiang  is  the  most  beautiful  and  extensive.  In  a  recess  formed  by  two 
mountains  at  the  close  of  the  fertile  valley  of  Teaow-Pih,  the  road,  which  han 
hitherto  been  a  flagged  pathway,  expands  into  a  broad  avenue,  extending 
about  a  mile,  with  lofty  trees  on  each  side,  adorned  at  intervals  each  with  a  hand- 
some ornamental  summer-house.  Passing  over  a  well-supplied  water-course, 
the  thrilling  noise  whereof  is  increased  by  a  fall  immediately  under,  from  a 
height  of  about  thirty  feet  into  a  large  artificial  basin  below  ;  at  a  sharp 
turning  the  astonished  traveler  comes  suddenly  on  one  of  the  most  romantic 
scenes  I  ever  witnessed.  There  is  a  majesty  about  the  first  appearance  of 
the  monastery  seldom  seen  in  China.  Immediately  in  the  rear  are  the  high 
topping  hills,  which  appear  to  rise  almost  perpendicularly,  covered  with  a 
magnificent  forest.  In  front  is  a  large  tank  filled  with  the  elegant  lotus 
plant,  reflecting  in  its  calm  waters  the  huge  building.  Facing  the  temple  is  a 
small  seven-storied  stone  pagoda,  on  each  side  of  which  are  three  lofty 
urns.  Through  the  woods  in  all  directions  are  foot-paths  commanding  every 
variety  of  scenery. 

Birds  of  beautiful  plumage  and  the  most  silvery  notes  abound,  and  in- 
crease and  multiply,  safe  in  the  vicinity  of  the  abodes  of  men,  one  of  the 
tenets  of  whose  religion  is  "  Thou  shalt  not  kill." 

The  Chinese  have  no  sabbath,  and  no  division  of  the  year  by  weeks,  but 
labor  every  day  in  the  year,  except  the  first,  which  is  our  27th  of  Febru- 
ary, they  devote  to  family  visiting,  and  the  last,  which  is  held  sacred 
to  the  memory  of  their  ancestors.  They  celebrate  the  festival  of  the  full  moon 
with  noise  and  riot,  and  at  the  first  full  moon  of  each  year  they  celebrate 
the  "feast  of  lanterns"  for  two  successive  nights,  when  the  whole  empire  is 
illuminated,  and  every  house  and  every  vessel  on  the  rivers  and  canals  deco- 
rated with  large  painted  lanterns,  in  the  construction  of  which  they  excel  all 
nations  in  beauty  and  ingenuity. 

"  Each  age  has  deemed  the  new-born  year 
The  fittest  time  for  festal  cheer — 
In  China,  as  well  as  elsewhere." 

On  the  26th  of  February,  1845,  while  walking  through  the  streets  of 
Shanghae,  I  was  startled  by  the  sound  of  a  serenade  that  brought  imme- 
diately to  my  mind  our  Christmas  waits,  coming  from  a  band  that  consisted 
of  five  or  six  performers  on  bamboo  castanets,  wooden  drums,  etc.  Every 
body  was  busily  preparing  for  the  approaching  festival  of  the  new  year  that 
was  to  commence  on  the  morrow.  The  shops  were  gayly  decorated,  espe- 
cially the  butchers',  who,  as  with  us,  displayed  their  fattest  meat,  but  it  was 
mostly  of  pig,  decked  out  with  green  boughs.  We  all  assembled  on  the  27th, 
at  the  consulate,  and,  according  to  etiquette,  started  off  in  full  uniform,  to 
pay  our  respects  and  congratulations  to  our  numerous  native  friends.  Every 
body  visits  everybody  in  gayest  attire,  the  ceremony  differing  but  little  from 
our  own  :  we  had,  the  day  before,  sent  round  our  cards,  printed  in  Chinese 
characters,  and  a  verbal  message  to  name  the  hour  when  we  would  do  our- 
selves the  honor  of  paying  our  respects  to  the  mandarins  punctually.  At  the 
time  appointed,  we  were  carried  in  sedan-chairs,  and  most  hospitably  received 


206  FORBES'  FIVE  TEARS  IN  CHINA. 

with  bands  and  salutes  of  guns  and  gongs,  and  obliged  to  make  some  show 
of  eating  at  each  visit. 

The  next  day  (27th  Feb'ry)  being  the  first  day,  was  unfortunately  wet, 
and  the  people  contented  themselves  with  paying  their  adorations  at  home,  to 
the  household  gods,  instead  of  going  to  the  temples,  and  the  streets  were 
nearly  deserted.  On  the  28th,  everybody  appeared  abroad  in  holiday  attire, 
making  calls ;  the  higher  orders  in  sedan-chairs,  the  rest  on  foot ;  and  when- 
ever  a  man  met  a  friend  he  performed  the  Chin-chin,  and  bowed  his  head  as 
low  as  he  could,  as  is  usual,  amid  festivity.  In  China,  the  bands  were  deci- 
dedly a  nuisance,  and  excitement  was  constantly  kept  up  by  a  running  fire 
of  crackers;  shops  were  closed,  and  everybody  appeared  happy,  and  in  the 
evening,  all  the  junks  on  the  rivers  and  canals  were  beautifully  illuminated. 
On  the  29th,  I  entered  the  public  gardens  with  some  difficulty,  owing  to  the 
density  of  the  crowd  ;  the  principal  object  seemed  to  be  to  amuse  the  children, 
taking  them  to  see  sights,  purchasing  little  presents,  showing  them  peepshows, 
Punch,  jugglers,  tight-rope  dancing,  and  mountebanks  of  all  sorts.  Every 
child  carried  some  little  gift,  and  I  saw  the  parents  of  many  returning  home, 
loaded  with  gaudy  toys  that  they  had  purchased,  or  received  as  presents. 
These  festivities  lasted  till  the  15th  day  of  the  moon,  and  ended  with  a  grand 
illumination  and  procession  of  lanterns,  as  in  the  spring  festival  of  Confucius. 

11  The  last  days  of  the  year,"  says  Hue,  "  are,  ordinarily,  with  the  Chi- 
nese, days  of  anger,  and  of  mutual  annoyance  ;  for  having  at  this  period 
made  up  their  accounts,  they  are  vehemently  engaged  in  getting  them  in  J 
and  every  Chinese  being  at  once  creditor  and  debtor,  every  Chinaman  is  just 
then  hunting  his  debtors,  and  in  turn,  is  hunted  by  his  creditors.  He  who 
returns  from  his  neighbor's  house,  which  he  has  been  throwing  into  utter 
confusion,  by  his  clamorous  demands,  for  what  that  neighbor  owes  him,  finds 
his  own  dwelling  turned  inside  out  by  an  uproarious  creditor,  and  so  the  thing 
goes  round.  The  whole  town  is  a  scene  of  vociferation,  disputation,  and 
fighting.  On  the  last  day  of  the  year,  disorder  attains  its  height ;  people 
rush  in  all  directions,  with  anything  they  can  scratch  together,  to  raise  money 
upon,  at  the  broker's  or  pawnbroker's,  the  shops  of  which  tradesmen  are 
absolutely  besieged  throughout  the  day,  with  profferers  of  clothes,  bedding, 
furniture,  cooking-utensils,  and  movables  of  every  description.  Those  who 
have  already  cleared  their  houses  in  this  way,  and  yet  have  not  satisfied  the 
demands  upon  them,  post  off  to  their  relations  and  friends,  to  borrow  some- 
thing or  other,  which  they  vow  shall  be  returned  immediately,  but  which  im- 
mediately takes  its  way  to  the  Tang-Pou,  or  pawnbroker's.  This  species  of 
anarchy  continues  till  midnight ;  then  calm  resumes  its  sway.  No  one,  after 
the  twelfth  hour  has  struck,  can  claim  a  debt,  or  even  make  the  slightest  al- 
lusion to  it.  You  now  only  hear  the  words  of  peace  and  good-will ;  every- 
body fraternizes  with  everybody.  Those  who  were  just  before  on  the  point 
of  twisting  their  neighbor's  neck,  now  twine  their  friendly  arms  about  it." 

The  wife  of  a  Chinese  officer,  either  civil  or  military,  takes  rank  and  title 
with  her  lord  ;  her  dress  is  as  magnificent  as  satin,  silk,  and  embroidery  can 
make  it.     The  hair  is  beautifully  adorned,  and,  as  an  appendage,  is  not  un 
frequently,  the  peacock's  feather,  for  a  badge  of  rank. 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  207 

The  feet  are,  perhaps,  the  point  on  which  ladies  pique  themselves  most, 
and  to  render  them  the  most  useless  to  themselves,  would  appear  to  be  the 
desideratum  of  Chinese  female  happiness,  but  Chinese  only.  The  Tartars 
have  never  adopted  the  fashion,  and  the  empress  herself  wears,  rationally, 
large  feet ;  but  all  the  Chinese,  who  can  afford  it,  and  that  is  nearly  the 
whole  female  population,  except  in  the  environs  of  Canton,  and  some  other 
sea-ports  to  the  southward,  cause  the  unformed  bone  of  the  infant's  feet,  at  a 
very  early  age,  to  be  broken,  and  the  toes  bent  beneath  the  palm  of  the  foot. 
In  this  way,  the  tiny  foot  is  bandaged,  and  not  allowed  to  grow;  the  consequences 
are  a  very  small  foot,  but  a  huge  unwieldy  ankle,  and  no  calf.  The  pain  of 
the  alteration,  in  the  direction  of  the  bone,  as  it  forms,  frequently  kills  the 
sufferer  ;  yet  mothers  pride  themselves  on  their  own  feet,  and  subject  their 
offspring  to  the  same  treatment,  knowing  the  pain  they  must  endure.  In 
order  to  walk,  some  of  these  beauties  are  constrained  to  totter  with  the  help 
of  a  stick,  which,  with  a  white  powder,  used  to  blanch  their  countenances, 
called  forth  the  following  verse,  from  an  inspired  oriental  poet : — 

"  Pale  as  rice,  and  graceful  as  the  bamboo." 

Another  curious  fancy  of  these  ladies,  is  letting  the  nails  of  the  fingers  grow 
so  long  as  to  render  the  hands  totally  useless.  I  have  in  my  possession,  a 
cover,  made  of  white  copper,  to  fit  on  the  finger  like  a  thimble,  to  protect  one 
nail,  of  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  which,  together  with  a  shoe  and  its  clog, 
three  inches  and  a  half  long,  was  taken  out  of  a  respectable  house  at  the 
storming  of  Chang-kung-fu.  The  eyebrows  are  penciled  with  Indian  ink, 
and  the  eyelashes  put  into  correct  shape  by  the  barbers.  The  ladies  of  qua- 
lity are  seldom  or  never  seen,  but  are  shut  up  like  Turks ;  their  lives  pass  in 
music,  tea-drinking,  embroidery,  smoking,  and  playing  chess.  About  one  in 
ten  of  them  are  educat3d. 

The  marriage  ceremony  is  an  imperative  duty  to  every  Chinese  ;  not  to 
have  a  son  to  worship  at  his  tomb  is  the  dread  of  all,  and  the  sooner  this  dif- 
ficulty is  overcome  the  better.  The  terms  honorable,  and  illustrious,  are 
used  to  the  father,  while  the  bachelor  is  looked  upon  with  certain  horror.  Tc 
the  poor  man,  the  acquirement  of  a  son,  is  what  he  looks  forward  to,  and  the 
hope  nerves  his  arm  to  new  toils,  whereby  to  acquire  a  sufficiency  to  marry 
with,  i.  e.,  to  buy  his  wife.  Sons  are  looked  upon  as  profitable  and  honorable, 
while  daughters  as  almost  the  contrary,  and  the  rearing  of  them  is  a  matter 
of  question  with  the  parents,  literally,  whether  it  will  pay  or  not ;  according 
to  the  accomplishments  of  the  lady,  so  is  her  price,  or  remuneration  to  the 
parents.  Bearing  the  same  surname,  is  about  the  only  one  bar  to  marriage 
in  general,  and  although  this  may  appear  but  a  trilling  one,  still,  from  the 
few  surnames  in  China,  it  is  a  grave  impediment. 

Marriageable  age,  is  from  fifteen,  on  either  side.  A  go-between,  or  publie 
match-maker,  frequently  arranges  the  affair,  but  more  commonly,  it  is  settled 
by  one  of  the  parents.  Love  has  not  often  a  hand  in  the  matter.  The 
anxious  parents  of  the  youth,  having,  by  one  means  or  other,  procured  a 
bride  for  him,  presents  of  geese,  cakes,  samshoo,  etc.,  pass  between  the 
families. 


208  FORBES'  FIVE  TEARS  IN  CHINA. 

The  bride  becomes  the  slave  of  her  lord,  tfhom,  perhaps,  she  has  never 
seen  before.  If  her  mother-in-law  be  alive,  she  becomes  only  second  in  the 
household,  being  entirely  under  the  guidance  of  her  mother-in-law  for  her 
life.  And  should  she  not  in  due  season,  present  her  lord  with  an  offspring, 
or  should  repeated  presentations  prove  females,  he  is  by  law,  at  liberty  to 
take  a  concubine,  whose  position  in  household  affairs  is  secondary  to  the  wife's  ; 
and  again,  should  that  lady  prove  barren,  or  not  produce  a  male,  a  second, 
or  more,  follow.  But  it  is  not  lawful  for  a  man  to  put  aside  his  wife  and 
marry  one  of  these  concubines.  But  matrimony  is  not  always  the  realization 
of  hope.  A  merchant  in  Ningpo  having  seen  and  admired  the  fair  daughter 
of  a  fellow-townsman,  got  his  parents  to  arrange  a  marriage  ;  when  all  was 
ready,  he  opened  the  bridal  chair,  and  led  into  the  house  his  intended's  sister, 
who  was  not  only  ugly,  but  terribly  pitted  with  small-pox  :  it  was  too  late  to 
retreat,  he  had  got  her  for  better  and  worse,  and  there  was  no  redress  ob- 
tainable.    I  heard  the  story  from  the  poor  fellow's  own  lips. 

There  is  an  old  saying,  that  to  render  life  perfectly  happy,  it  is  necessary 
to  be  born  at  Soo-Choo  to  be  handsome  ;  to  live  at  Canton  to  be  luxurious ; 
and  to  die  in  the  province  of  Keang-tsu,  whose  forests  produce  beautiful 
wood  for  making  coffins.  The  coffin  is  mostly  provided  before  death,  and 
retained  in  the  house  sometimes  for  years,  generally  richly  carved,  painted, 
and  decorated,  of  huge  dimensions,  and,  when  occupied,  cemented  down. 

No  sooner  is  the  breath  out  of  a  man's  body,  than  a  message  is  sent  to 
announce  it  to  all  the  relations.  Women  are  hired  to  wail  and  lament ; 
seated  on  each  side  of  the  coffin,  clothed  in  sackcloth  and  white  garments, 
they  howl  and  cry  without  cessation,  assisted  by  the  female  relations  of  the 
deceased  on  their  arrival.  If  a  father  dies,  the  eldest  son,  supported  by  his 
friends,  carries  a  basin  with  some  small  money  to  the  nearest  well — throwing 
in  the  coin,  he  draws  some  water  with  which  the  body  and  face  of  the  de- 
ceased are  washed.  This  ceremony  is  performed  by  the  nearest  of  kin.  On 
the  second  day  priests  attend,  and  erecting  an  altar  in  the  hall  of  ancestors, 
present  offerings,  and  perform  prostrations  to  the  household  gods  for  the 
welfare  of  the  soul  of  the  deceased,  in  which  ceremony  the  females,  clothed 
entirely  in  white,  also  attend,  while  the  nearest  male  relations  perform  the 
Ko-tow,  and  repeat  prayers  to  the  most  dismal  tune.  No  sooner  is  this  cere- 
mony over  than  three  guns  are  fired  to  conclude  the  ceremony  for  the  day, 
in  honor  of  the  deceased,  which  is  followed  by  a  wake. 

On  the  outside  of  the  door  of  the  house  is  pasted  a  yellow  paper,  setting 
forth  the  virtues,  rank,  etc.,  of  the  deceased  ;  and  all  friends  call  to  condole 
with  the  bereaved,  who  not  unfrequently  answer  these  attentions  by  a  placard 
some  days  after,  also  pasted  on  the  front  of  the  house,  "thanking  all  parties 
for  kind  inquiries."  After  the  washing,  the  body  is  placed  in  the  coffin,  and 
a  tablet  bearing  the  inscription  intended  for  the  tombstone  placed  thereon  . 
these  tablets  are  of  wood,  painted  red  and  gold,  with  a  black  field  for  the 
inscription,  which  is  in  gold  characters.  The  inscription  for  a  male  runs  thus, 
(after  the  name),  "  the  deceased,  who  shone  illustrious  in  his  days,  finished 
his  state  of  probation  in  the  seventh  day,  second  moon,  twenty-third  year  of 
Taow-Kwang,  in  the  dynasty  of  Ts'hing." 


FORBES'  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA.  209 

The  oblations  and  prostrations  of  priests  and  relatives,  together  with  th« 
lamentations  of  hirelings,  music  and  feasting,  last  for  seven  days  without 
cessation,  and  off  and  on  till  the  twenty-first,  when  the  coffin  is  taken  out  to 
the  burial-place.  In  front  march  a  band,  then  some  small  banners  borne 
by  boys,  priests,  and  a  sedan-chair,  bearing  the  tablet  and  dress,  boots,  shoes, 
and  stockings  especially,  together  with  all  the  insignia  of  office  of  the  de- 
ceased, preceding  the  coffin,  with  which  as  mourners  are  the  deceased's  male 
friends  and  relations  dressed  in  white  and  sackcloth  ;  following  are  the  female 
relations,  who  waddling  along  Ko-tow  and  howl  incessantly.  The  coffin  is 
placed  above  or  below  ground,  and  built  over,  or  otherwise,  according  to  the 
wealth  of  the  deceased's  kindred. 

After  the  coffin  is  placed,  the  wooden  tablet  is  brought  back  to  the  house 
and  formally  placed  with  the  others  of  the  family  in  the  hall  of  ancestors,  and 
incense  burnt  before  it ;  a  feast  closes  the  day,  and  until  the  forty -ninth  day 
after  the  death,  offerings  and  prostrations  are  made  to  it  morning  and  even- 
ing, when  the  ceremony  ends,  only  revived  in  the  feast  of  the  dead,  when 
houses,  clothes,  money,  and  every  imaginable  want,  in  paper  imitation,  is 
burnt,  being  supposed  by  the  relatives  to  be  carried  in  reality  by  invisible 
spirits  for  the  use  of  their  friends  in  the  next  world. 

THE    CHINESE    AS    EMIGRANTS    AND    COLONIZER8. 

We  here  close  our  extracts  from  the  work  of  Forbes.  Our  own  country- 
man, Raphael  Pumpelly,  Professor  in  Harvard  University,  traveled  some- 
what extensively  in  China  at  the  period  of  the  close  of  our  Rebellion.  One 
of  the  chapters  of  his  work,  "Across  America  and  Asia,"  gives  his  views 
of  the  Chinese  as  emigrants  and  colonizers.  As  it  is  a  question  that  is 
shortly  to  assume  a  vital  importance  to  the  well-being  of  our  country,  we 
quote  his  views  and  facts  in  an  abridged  form  : 

"If  we  Americans  of  to-day  turn  from  the  splendid  sunrise  of  our  national 
morning,  to  the  misty  vail  that  enshrouds  the  future,  we  shall  see  a  giant 
specter  slowly  defining  its  shadowy  form  against  the  western  heavens. 

Let  us  look  and  reflect,  for  it  is  the  mirage  of  a  distant  empire — a  loom- 
ing of  one-third  of  the  human  race.  It  is  the  foreshadowing  of  a  problem 
which  only  time  can  solve — one  of  the  most  important  in  the  world's  history. 
Let  us  examine  the  elements  of  this  problem. 

On  the  western  shore  of  the  Pacific,  there  is  a  country  not  much  larger 
than  the  United  States  east  of  the  Mississippi,  in  which  a  population  of  more 
than  four  hundred  millions  treads  closely  upon  the  capacity  of  the  soil  for 
supporting  existence.  So  true  is  this,  that  those  years  in  which  the  pro- 
ductiveness of  the  earth  falls  below  the  average,  witness  the  horrors  of  a 
wide-spread  famine. 

By  uniting  patience  and  industry  with  intelligence  and  the  skill  attained 

through  ages  of  experience — by  uniting  all  these  qualities  in  wresting  from 

Nature  the  last  atom  she  can  yield,  and,  finally,  by  returning  to  Mother 

Earth,  with  scrupulous  care,  all  that  has  been  taken  from  her,  with  interest 

14 


210  CHINESE  AS  EMIGRANTS   AND    COLONIZERS. 

drawn  from  sea  and  river,  this  race  maintains  its  vitality  unimpaired.  But 
it  is  a  struggle  for  life.  So  long  as  the  throes  of  this  tremendous  struggle 
were  confined  to  China  by  strong  natural  and  political  barriers,  they  found  a 
remedy  in  decimation  by  famine  and  pestilence.  But  the  last  twenty  years 
have  effected  as  great  breaches  in  the  political  barrier  which  the  Chinese  had 
raised  about  them  as  twenty  centuries  have  made  in  their  ancient  wall  of 
brick  and  stone.  The  social  and  political  restraints  which  have  opposed  em- 
igration are  disappearing,  and  the  first  consciousness  of  an  expansive  power 
is  beginning  to  show  itself  in  the  maritime  provinces  of  the  empire. 

A  few  years  since,  the  confines  of  Asia  and  its  archipelagoes  were  the  hori- 
zon of  the  world  to  every  Chinaman.  The  small  fields  therein  opened  to  a 
peaceful  race,  attracted  many  enterprising  emigrants ;  but  neither  were  the 
openings  large  enough;  nor  the  facilities  for  reaching  them  great  enough,  to 
initiate  any  very  important  movement.  The  discovery  of  gold  in  California 
and  Australia,  and  the  demand  for  labor  on  the  distant  shores  of  the  Pacific, 
gave  the  needed  impulse.  Timidly,  at  first,  small  numbers  went  abroad ; 
then  tens  of  thousands,  until  now  there  must  be  nearly  two  hundred  thousand 
Chinamen  on  the  American  continents  alone.  During  these  years,  there  has 
also  been  a  continuous  stream  returning  to  Asia,  and  carrying  home,  in  the 
aggregate,  a  large  amount  of  money  and  information. 

Thus,  the  number  of  Chinamen  who  have  seen  the  outside  world  can  not 
be  far  from  one  per  cent,  of  the  whole  male  population  of  the  empire.  These 
act  as  a  leaven  on  ever-growing  circles  at  home,  spreading  among  hundreds 
of  millions  those  stories  of  adventure  in  distant  lands,  of  wonders,  of  bound- 
less demand  for  labor,  and  of  high  wages,  which  make  individuals  think,  and 
become  restless.  Thoughts  arise,  which,  when  they  become  common  to 
large  nurhbers,  are  intensified  to  a  degree  proportionate  to  the  size  of  the 
masses  swayed  by  them,  until  the  sympathetic  attraction  of  remote  countries 
produces  the  tidal  wave  and  currents  of  emigration. 

In  China  we  have  one-third  of  the  human  race  suffering  from  an  excessive 
death-rate,  and  all  the  misery  of  an  incessant  struggle  for  life,  with  no  rem- 
edy but  the  ability  to  overflow  into  other  lands,  until  the  population  at  home 
shall  stand  in  a  proper  ratio  to  the  means  of  support. 

Leaving  out  all  other  questions,  the  capacity  of  America  for  receiving 
emigration  is  at  present  boundless,  as  compared  with  the  capacity  of  all  the 
world  to  supply  it.  An  eminent  English  geographer  has  carefully  calcu- 
lated that  the  two  Americas  are  capable  of  supporting  thirty-six  hundred 
millions  of  inhabitants,  or  three  times  the  present  population  of  our  globe. 
Room  and  subsistence  are  not  wanting.  The  capacity  for  absorption  of  labor 
is  scarcely  more  limited. 

The  end  of  the  long-continued  exodus  from  Europe  can  not  be  far  off;  to 
think  otherwise  is  to  believe  unjustifiably  in  a  rapidly  approaching  decay  of 
the  nations  beyond  the  Atlantic.  Social  and  political  reforms,  raising  the 
condition  of  the  people,  especially  that  of  the  women  of  the  lowest  classes  * 


CHINESE   AS  EMIGRANTS  AND   COLONIZERS.  211 

the  increase  in  industrial  prosperity,  and  the  continued  drain  of  skilled  laboi 
to  foreign  countries,  seem  to  be  silently  working,  throughout  Europe,  toward 
the  establishment  of  a  proper  balance  between  population  and  means  of 
support. 

The  facilities  for  crossing  the  Pacific  are  yearly  increasing,  and  so  is  also 
the  knowledge  of  America  in  China.  Unless  obstacles  be  placed  in  the  way, 
immigration  will  increase  rapidly ;  with  additional  encouragement,  it  will 
soon  become  enormous. 

Under  these  circumstances,  if  this  emigration  should  be  proportionate  to 
the  necessity  for  relief  that  exists  in  China,  or  to  the  capacity  for  receiving  it 
here ;  or  again,  if  it  should  bear  the  same  relation  to  the  parent  population 
that  the  emigration  from  Ireland  and  Germany  bears  to  the  home  population  of 
those  countries,  the  male  adults  of  Mongolian  origin  on  this  continent  would 
soon  outnumber  those  of  the  European  race. 

If  the  probabilities  of  the  case  bear  any  proximate  relation  to  the  possibil- 
ities, the  teeming  population  of  our  hemisphere  two  or  three  centuries  hence 
may  have  more  Chings  and  Changs  in  their  genealogical  trees  than  Smiths 
and  Browns ;  for,  other  things  being  equal,  the  predominant  blood  will  be 
that  of  the  race  best  able  to  maintain  an  undiminished  rate  of  increase. 

With  an  emigration  from  China  standing  in  the  same  relation  to  the  home 
population  that  the  drain  from  Germany  holds  to  the  population  of  that 
country,  we  should  have  an  influx  of  more  than  one  million  Chinese  yearly. 
Ten  years  of  this  rate  would  place  upon  our  soil  a  preponderance  of  male 
adults  of  Mongolian  blood  over  those  of  all  other  families  of  man  among  us. 
The  perception  of  this  possibility  can  not  but  awaken  in  the  mind  of  the  true 
American  the  gravest  thoughts ;  the  questions  involved  are  of  transcendant 
importance. 

The  question  of  the  prohibition  or  the  heavy  taxation  of  Chinese  immi- 
gration, is  almost  sure  to  be  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  bitterly-fought 
issues  of  the  Far  West.  The  hostility  to  the  Chinese  of  the  white  laborers, 
especially  the  Irish,  is  very  bitter.  Twenty  years  of  contact  between  the 
two  races,  in  California,  have  done  little  toward  removing  the  prejudice 
against  the  Chinese.  They  have  poured  steadily  into  and  out  of  the  country ; 
but,  surrounded  by  barriers,  they  have  been  forced  to  form  a  world  of  their 
own.  Within  this,  some  fifty  thousand  men  have  been  thriving,  while  many 
of  them  have  amassed  large  fortunes.  Many  an  enterprise,  too,  has  swamped 
in  failure  which  would  have  given  brilliant  returns  but  for  the  tyranny  of 
white  workmen,  who  prevented  the  employment  of  cheap  Chinese  labor.  This 
tyranny  is  met  with  at  every  step :  from  the  court-room,  where  the  China- 
man is  denied  the  right  of  giving  evidence  in  mixed  cases,  to  the  gold- 
diggings,  where  white  rowdies,  acting  as  self-appointed  collectors,  levy  the 
mining  tax,  which  is  never  assessed  upon  Americans. 

California  is  just  beginning  to  feel  how  suicidal  her  course  toward  Chinese 
labor  has  been  ;   and  she  is  finding  that  her  material  prosperity  is  increasing 


212  CHINESE   AS   EMIGRANTS   AND    COLONIZERS. 

apace  with  the  innovation  upon  that  policy.  The  Chinese  are  now  found  in 
woolen,  paper,  and  powder  mills;  in  the  horax  works,  in  the  hop  planta- 
tions, fruit  orchards  and  vineyards,  following  the  reaping  machines  on  farms, 
and  working  the  salt  pits  on  the  coast ;  doing,  almost  universally,  the  cook- 
ing, and  engaged  in  hundreds  of  branches  of  industry  that  would-be  impos- 
sible without  their  cheap  labor. 

The  sure  result  of  this  will  be  that,  in  a  few  years,  the  small  savings  of 
these  workmen  will,  by  accumulation,  transform  the  laborer  of  to-day  into 
the  capitalist,  contracting  to  build  railroads,  owning  large  farms  or  factories, 
and  lines  of  ships,  and  making  great  commercial  combinations.  This  is 
certain ;  for  no  people  upon  the  face  of  the  earth  advance  so  unswervingly  in 
the  accumulation  of  capital ;  and  in  its  investment,  from  childhood  upward, 
they  combine  the  shrewdness  of  the  Jew  with  the  many-sidedness  of  the 
Yankee. 

On  the  island  of  Java,  under  the  dominion  of  the  Dutch,  they  number  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  Beginning,  on  their  arrival,  as  coolies  and 
laborers,  many  of  them  amass  large  fortunes.  Their  industry  embraces  the 
whole  system  of  commerce,  and  they  have  obtained  nearly  the  monopoly  of 
the  native  produce.  In  their  hands  are  all  the  manufactories,  distilleries, 
potteries,  etc.,  and  they  have  large  coffee  and  sugar  plantations.  In  the 
English  colony  of  Singapore,  under  the  full  protection  of  English  law,  the 
Chinese  have  obtained  a  strong  foothold,  and  are  accumulating  large  fortunes. 
Nearly  all  the  trade  is  under  their  control ;  and  this,  in  1867,  represented 
sixty-four  million  dollars  in  exports  and  imports.  Carrying  with  them  and 
retaining  their  innate  energy  in  a  country  where  both  the  natives  and  Eu- 
ropeans succumb,  morally,  if  not  physically,  to  an  enervating  climate,  they 
are  absorbing  every  department  of  labor.  The  writer  was  told,  some  years 
since,  that  the  English  owners  of  a  large  machine -shop  at  Singapore  were 
gradually  removing  their  English  workmen,  and  replacing  them  with  China- 
men, having  found  the  latter  more  sober,  docile,  enduring,  and  equally  skill- 
ful. So  successful  is  their  competition,  that  Parsees,  Jews,  and  Europeans 
can  retain  no  foothold  in  face  of  it. 

The  Chinese  alone,  of  all  races,  have  shown  themselves  able  to  maintain 
vigorous  moral  and  physical  vitality  in  the  unwholesome  and  enervating 
climates  of  the  South.  The  ability  to  thrive  in  the  most  extreme  climates 
is  a  remarkable  characteristic  of  this  people.  The  writer  has  seen  them,  in 
considerable  numbers,  pursuing  the  different  branches  of  their  industry,  on 
the  confines  of  Tartary  and  Siberia,  where  the  mercury  sinks  every  winter  to 
sixty  degrees  below  zero. 

The  most  striking  features  in  the  history  of  China,  are  the  endurance  of 
its  civilization  and  its  national  vitality,  which  seems  undiminished,  notwith- 
standing the  great  age  of  the  empire.  Every  essential  feature  of  their  civili- 
zation— moral,  social,  political,  industrial — is  the  offspring  of  their  own 
minds.     The  mariner's  compass,  gunpowder,  and  printing,  were  among  their 


CHINESE  AS  EMIGRANTS  AND  COLONIZERS.  213 

early  inventions.     It  has  been  claimed  that  the  first  printed  copy  of  the  Bible 
was  made  in  China. 

It  has  often  been  made  a  reproach  to  the  Chinese  that  their  inventions 
have  remained  unperfected.  This  is  certainly  a  remarkable  fact.  But  it 
finds  its  explanation  in  the  other  fact,  that  the  Chinese  have  had  no  compe- 
tition from  the  outer  world,  so  their  inventions  stopped  at  the  point  where 
the  desired  end  was  attained,  which  was  labor-aiding  rather  than  labor- 
saving. 

The  principles  upon  which  the  whole  social  and  political  fabric  of  the 
empire  is  based,  are  paternal  and  filial  duty,  and  individual  responsibility 
for  the  public  welfare.  As  the  emperor  is  the  son  of  Heaven  and  the  father 
of  the  people,  he  is  responsible  to  Heaven  for  the  well-being  of  the  nation. 
A  portion  only  of  his  power  is  delegated  to  the  officers  of  the  government. 
So  also  in  the  family  the  parent  is  supreme,  but  also  responsible  for  the  con- 
duct of  the  children.  The  entire  population  of  a  city  is  responsible  for  the 
citizens  ;  each  ward,  for  its  families  ;  each  family,  for  its  members.  No  crime 
is  greater  than  the  violation  of  filial  duty,  in  the  family  relation,  and  all 
crimes  acting  against  the  public  good  are  brought  to  the  doors  of  the  public 
sponsors. 

But  the  Chinese,  always  too  material  and  practical  a  people  to  vest  the 
control  of  the  imperial  will  in  Heaven  alone,  established,  so  far  as  we  know, 
first  among  mankind,  the  principle  that  the  will  of  the  people  and  the  will 
of  Heaven  are  identical.  Believing  thus  firmly  that  "  the  voice  of  the  people 
is  the  voice  of  God,"  a  council  of  the  wisest  men  of  the  empire,  themselves 
raised  from  the  people,  has  ever  surrounded  the  throne,  holding  the  position 
of  censors,  memorializing  the  emperor  on  the  state  of  the  country,  and  gen- 
erally not  hesitating  to  risk  their  lives  in  criticising  a  wrong  policy. 

As  the  people  are  the  children  of  the  emperor,  they  are  all  equal  as  mem- 
bers of  one  family.  All  being  equal,  competition  for  office  is  open  for  all. 
Education  is  universal ;  and  proficiency  in  scholarship  forms  the  basis  of  this 
competition. 

Among  the  Chinese  alone,  of  all  peoples,  has  the  principle  that  forms  the 
basis  of  our  own  government — the  equality  of  man — existed  through  all 
history. 

Having  no  fear  of  the  future  world,  the  Chinese  meet  death  with  great 
courage,  dreading  it  less  than  continued  pain.  The  family  ties  are  very 
close,  and  family  honor  is  the  strongest  check  on  their  actions.  Their  sense 
of  commercial  honor  is  deep ;  and  my  own  experience,  in  central  and  north- 
ern China,  leads  me  to  think  that  honesty  is  quite  as  general  there  as  in  other 
countries.  The  existence  of  hospitals,  founded  by  private  charity,  proves 
that  the  Chinese  are  not  negligent  of  social  responsibilities. 

It  is  no  slight  tribute  to  say,  that  during  nearly  five  thousand  miles  of 
travel  in  this  closely-peopled  land,  the  writer  never  saw  a  drunken  China- 
man.    The  Chinese  have  been  charged,  as  a  people,  corrupt  beyond  measure, 


214  CHINESE   AS   EMIGRANTS   AND    COLONIZERS. 

given  over  to  every  abomination,  and  practicing  infanticide  to  tjie  extent  of 
destroying  one-quarter  of  the  female  children ;  but  it  is  the  opinion  of  Dr. 
Lockhart,  an  eminent  medical  missionary,  that  the  latter  crime  is  perhaps 
less  common,  in  its  various  forms,  than  in  England  and  America ;  and  it 
should  seem  that  the  healthy  and  moral  condition  of  society  is  proved  by  the 
vitality  of  the  nation. 

With  all  the  admiration  a  careful  observer  must  have  for  China,  it  is 
certainly  not  a  pleasant  country  for  a  foreigner  to  live  in,  unless  he  recog- 
nizes and  keep  always  before  him  the  fact  that  organic  matter,  in  decaying  and 
giving  nutriment  to  plants,  loses  every  vestige  of  its  former  character.  There 
is  too  much  of  the  human  element :  go  where  you  will,  look  where  you  will, 
it  is  there.  In  the  more  closely-peopled  parts,  the  traveler  is  surrounded 
by  a  turbid  stream  of  life,  while  he  treads  a  soil  almost  human — the  ashes  of 
the  unnumbered  millions  of  the  past — the  very  dust  which  he  breathes  and 
swallows,  is  that  of  a  charnel-house.  The  water  of  wells  is  everywhere 
impregnated  with  organic  decay,  and  the  rivers  are  the  sewers  of  countless 
cities. 

On  the  densely-peopled  plain,  all  the  organic  and  much  of  the  mineral 
ingredients  of  the  soil  must  have  made  many  times  the  circuit  of  plant  and 
animal  life  ;  in  other  words,  every  thing  that  goes  to  make  the  human  body 
has  formed  part  of  human  bodies  which  have  passed  away. 

Few  foreigners  have  the  courage  to  enter  the  large  southern  towns  in  sum- 
mer, so  horrible  is  the  air.  In  the  neighborhood  of  great  cities,  on  the  delta 
plain,  where  water  is  found  just  below  the  surface,  one  may  ride  for  miles  always 
in  sight  of  coffins,  bursting  in  the  scorching  heat  of  the  sun,  and  breeding 
the  pestilence  that  yearly  sweeps  off  the  surplus  population. 

What  I  have  attempted  to  make  conspicuous  is  the  fact,  that  the  spirit  of 
the  Chinese,  as  shown  in  their  enterprise  and  energy  as  colonizers,  in  their 
commercial  character  and  faculty  of  organization,  in  the  democratic  idea  of 
the  political  equality  of  man,  in  the  practical  decentralization  of  their  gov- 
ernment, and  in  the  universality  of  education,  and  the  making  of  education 
a  necessary  qualification  for  office,  is  in  harmony  with  the  spirit  of  the 
present  age.  This  is  the  strong  armor  of  the  race — its  safeguard  in  the 
future  struggle  for  existence. 

We  have  seen  that  there  exists  in  China  a  boundless  source  of  emigration, 
and  the  necessity  for  emigration ;  that  the  capacity  of  America  for  receiving 
this  emigration  is  comparatively  unlimited ;  that  the  emigration  will  be,  at 
least,  proportionate  to  the  encouragement  offered ;  that  the  encouragement  is 
springing  into  existence  through  the  recognition  of  the  Chinese  as  a  neces- 
sary element  for  the  development  of  our  resources ;  that  the  immense  influx 
of  these  people  will  constitute  a  possible  political  power,  which  can  not 
remain  latent ;  and  that  the  attainment  of  the  privileges  of  citizenship  will 
make  of  them  a  fixed  population,  which,  so  far  as  we  Know  anything  to  the 
contrary,  may,  at  no  distant  date,  largely  outnumber  the  European  element. 


CHINESE   AS  EMIGRANTS  AND   COLONIZERS.  215 

The  first  question  which  naturally  arises  is,  in  what  can  this  people  con- 
tribute to  our  material  prosperity  ?  It  is  not  difficult  to  answer  to  this,  that, 
by  reason  of  their  many-sidedness,  their  adaptability  to  all  branches  of 
industry,  they  can  contribute  more  than  any  foreign  element  in  the  first 
generation.  They  can  supply  labor  for  the  house  and  field,  and  for  every 
need  on  sea  and  land.  Within  the  really  impassable  limits  set  by  nature, 
they  alone  can  render  productive  vast  tracts  of  land,  the  cultivation  of  which 
is  essential  to  the  prosperity  of  our  mountain  territories. 

They  can  contribute  largely  to  our  wealth,  and  that  of  the  world,  by  their 
saving  of  material,  and  by  forcing  us,  through  competition,  to  become  more 
economical  in  this  respect.  They  can  advance  greatly  our  material  prosper- 
ity, also,  by  their  independent  enterprise  as  capitalists.  Indeed,  the  lower- 
ing the  price  of  labor,  through  Chinese  immigration,  taken  in  connection  with 
the  almost  certain  rise  in  price  in  Europe,  appears  to  offer  the  best  solution 
of  the  vexed  question  of  free-trade,  by  placing  us  on  equal  or  superior  foot- 
ing with  Europe  in  the  manufacture  of  those  things  which  now  require  pro- 
tection. It  should  seem  that  Chinese  emigration,  organized  on  the  most 
liberal  plan,  in  conformity  with  the  emigration  laws  of  China,  and  under 
the  responsible  guidance  of  Chinese  contractors,  would  rapidly  raise  our 
Southern  States  to  a  height  of  prosperity  never  yet  reached  by  them,  and 
render  possible  the  completion  and  maintenance  of  great  works,  necessary  to 
control  the  overflow  of  the  Mississippi,  and  to  drain  unproductive  and 
malarious  regions." 

Mr.  Pumpelly  speaks  highly  of  our  missionaries  among  the  Chinese — 
their  earnest  devotion  to  the  conversion  of  the  natives  to  Christianity.  But 
he  regards  their  way  to  success  as  full  of  difficulties.  He  says  :  "  The  truth 
is,  that  the  Chinese,  though  superstitious,  have  no  religion ;  at  least,  none 
which  stands  in  any  relation  to  a  future  existence.  A  national  religious 
change  must  pre-suppose  that  the  supplanting  faith  meets  some  want  gen- 
erally felt  among  the  people.  The  establishment  of  any  religion  pre-supposes 
a  well-defined  belief  in  a  future  existence,  and  a  feeling  of  utter  dependence 
upon  a  Deity.  That  the  Chinese  had  something  of  this  religious  sentiment 
in  times  which  ante-date  their  written  history,  seems  to  be  shown  in  their 
State  religion,  now  sunken  into  a  mere  form.  But  the  principle  which  the 
early  philosophers  established  as  the  corner-stone  of  government — that  the 
will  of  the  people  is  the  will  of  Heaven — has  been  carried  to  its  natural  con- 
sequence :  the  elevation  of  public  welfare  to  the  position  of  being  the  highest 
aim  of  monarch  and  citizen.  The  Chinaman  has  no  God ;  and  having  no 
belief  in  a  system  of  future  rewards  and  punishments,  has  no  fear  of  death, 
and  consequently  feels  none  of  those  wants  which  one  must  suppose  to  exist 
in  a  convert  to  Christianity.  In  this  respect,  he  differs  from  the  Japanese 
and  Polynesian.  The  former,  while  strongly  imbued  with  the  religious  sen- 
timent, has  outgrown,  in  his  intellectual  progress,  the  doctrines  of  a  corrupted 
Buddhism ;  while  the  latter  is  easily  persuaded  to  exchange  the  bloody  rites 


216  CHINESE  AS  EMIGRANTS  AND  COLONIZERS. 

of  his  superstition  for  the  humane  doctrines  of  Christianity.  While  Japan 
offers  one  of  the  best  fields  for  proselytizing,  China  is  certainly  the  worst. 

One  form  of  the  missionary  enterprise — the  medical  mission — has  always 
commanded  the  respect  and  gratitude  of  the  Chinese.  The  names  of  the 
excellent  doctors,  Parker  and  Lockhart,  and  others,  who  have  spent  years  in 
alleviating  suffering  among  the  natives,  are  known  far  and  wide  in  the 
empire,  and  will  long  be  remembered  for  the  good  they  have  done." 

In  a  conversation  with  Mr.  Burlingame,  a  high  Chinese  official,  a  member 
of  the  Board  of  Foreign  Affairs,  thus  stated  the  views  of  the  government  in 
regard  to  religion :  "  Our  sentiments  are  identical  with  yours,  though  they 
are  expressed  by  different  signs ;  and  our  religious  principles  are  the  same  as 
yours,  though  they  are  clothed  in  different  forms  :  that  is  to  say,  what  yon 
mean  by  'Lord,'  we  call  'Heaven.'  It  is  not  a  firmament  of  stone  or  vapor 
we  worship  ;  but  the  Spirit  who  dwells  in  Heaven.  In  the  popular  idolatry, 
we  put  no  faith  whatever;  but  the  Emperor  makes  use  of  it  as  an  auxiliary 
power  in  governing  the  people.  The  teachers  of  every  creed  agree  as  to  the 
principles  of  virtue.  Any  one  of  these  systems  will  suffice  to  deter  men  from 
the  perpetration  of  secret  crimes,  which  the  law  of  the  land  would  be  power- 
less to  prevent As  a  proof  of  our  liberality.  I  may  mention  that 

we  are  even  now  inviting  Christian  missionaries  to  become  the  teachers  of 
our  children;  and  if  Christian  churches  ever  produce  better  citizens  than 
Buddhist,  or  Christian  schools  better  scholars  than  the  Confucianist,  we  shall 
gladly  acknowledge  their  work." 


A    SOJOURN 


AMONG 


THE      TUKKS 


A     TURKISH     FAMILY. 

Obiqin  ot  tie  Turks— Their  Political  System— Character— Decay  of  the  Turkish  Empire- 
Constantinople — Its  beauty  of  Situation — The  Suburbs — The  Bosphorus — History  of  Con- 
stantinople— Tombs — Aspect  of  the  City,  and  its  People — Vailed  Women — The  Bazaar — 
The  Seraglio— Adventure  of  a  young  .Russian  in  the  Sultan's  Harem— Lady  Mary  Wortloy 
Montague's  visit  to  a  Harem — Turkish  women — Massacre  of  the  Janizaries — The  Sultan's 
Palace— The  Sultan— A  Conflagration— Fatalism— The  Mosques— Religion  of  the  Turks  - 
Excursion  up  the  Bosphorus— Turkish  and  Armenian  Beauty— Valley  of  Sweet  Wateib— 
Dancing  Dervishes. 

The  Turks  or  Toorks,  originated  in' the  high  central  regions  of  Tartary, 
on  the  border  of  the  Altai  mountains.  Their  noble  stature  and  fair  ruddy 
complexions,  distinguish  them  from  the  Mongols,  the  other  ruling  Tartar 
race. 

In  the  tenth  century,  having  subdued  all  their  neighbors,  they  were 
attracted  by  the  rich  and  beautiful  regions  of  the  south,  until  the  whole  of 
Western  Asia  fell  into  their  hands,  and  in  1299,  Othman  or  Ottoman,  on*;  of 
their  chiefs,  founded  the  mighty  Ottoman  Empire.  The  Turkish  Emptr* 
was  raised  to  its  greatest  height  by  the  capture  of  Constantinople,  in  14b* , 
by  Mahomet  II.     The  power  of  the  Turks  now  struck  terror  into  all  Europe 

217 


218  A  SOJOCJRxN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

In  the  next  century  they  subdued  Egypt,  and  Barbary  ;  they  overran  Hun 
gary,  and  repeatedly  besieged  Vienna,  and  threatened  not  to  rest  until  they 
should  stable  their  steeds  in  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  At  this 
crisis,  the  European  states  became  alarmed,  Poland  and  Germany  united,  and 
several  times  drove  back  the  Moslems  with  prodigious  loss.  In  the  17th 
century,  the  Ottoman  power  began  to  decline  ;  the  rigor  of  discipline  was  re- 
laxed ;  the  grand  signior  resigned  himself  to  the  indulgences  of  the  seraglio, 
and  revolts  of  the  pachas  distracted  every  part  of  the  empire.  Above  all, 
when  Russia  began  to  develop  her  gigantic  resources,  the  star  of  Ottoman 
ascendency  rapidly  declined.  In  the  war  of  1 828,  with  Russia,  the  troops 
of  the  Czar  entered  Adrianople,  and  saw  the  road  to  the  capital  open,  and 
would  then  have  conquered  the  empire,  but  for  the  interference  of  other 
European  powers,  in  her  ambitious  designs. 

The  Turkish  political  system  is  formed  upon  a  purely  Asiatic  model.  Its 
principle  is  the  subjection  of  the  whole  administration  civil,  military  and 
religious,  to  the  absolute  disposal  of  one  man,  the  Sultan,  who  is  considered 
as  sole  ruler  by  divine  commission  ;  here  a  peculiarly  sacred  character  is 
communicated  to  him,  and  according  to  Mahometan  belief,  he  is  incapable  of 
doing  a  moral  wrong.  The  government  is  sometimes  called  the  Sublime 
Porte.  The  Grand  Vizier  is  the  Sultan's  prime  minister  ;  he  is  invested  with 
the  authority  of  supreme  magistrate,  and  assisted  by  the  Divan  or  tribunal, 
is  the  person  upon  whom  devolves  entire,  the  exclusive  power  of  the  state. 
The  Ulema,  or  body  of  Mollahs,  form  the  depository  of  the  laws  of  the 
empire,  and  the  only  class  who  approach  to  the  character  of  a  national  coun- 
cil. As  they  receive  their  education  in  the  colleges  attached  to  the  mosques, 
they  bear  quite  a  sacred  character.  No  great  measure  of  state  can  be  taken 
without  a  "  fetwa"  from  the  mufti,  the  President  of  the  Ulema,  who  ranks 
next  to  the  Sultan  in  dignity.  Justice  is  administered  by  members  of  the 
Ulema ;  in  large  towns,  termed  Mollahs,  and  in  small,  Cadis. 

The  government  hac  no  such  political  divisions  of  the  empire,  as  European, 
and  Asiatic  Turkey,  these  being  merely  divisions  made  by  geographers.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  Ottoman  Empire,  are  divided  into  two  great  classes — the 
Turks,  or  Osmanlis,  and  the  Rayahs,  or  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  the 
countries  conquered  by  the  Turks.  The  Rayahs  are  mostly  Christians,  as 
Greeks,  Armenians,  Sclavonians,  etc.  The  foreign  Europeans  are  termed 
Franks. 

The  national  character  of  the  Turk  is  thoroughly  oriental.  The  grave, 
secluded,  and  serious  cast  impressed  by  a  despotic  government,  and  by  the 
Mahometan  law  renders  the  Turk  a  solemn,  solitary  being.  Belonging  to  a 
conquering  people,  he  is  inspired  by  a  sense  of  personal  dignity,  which  raises 
him  above  the  system  of  falsehood  and  deceit,  so  universal  elsewhere 
throughout  the  east.  Hospitality  and  alms-giving  are  oriental  virtues. 
Every  grandee  keeps  a  sort  of  open  table  ;  and  the  fragments  of  the  feast  are 
distributed  at  the  door  to  the  poor.  It  is  rare  to  hindei  any  one  from  pluck- 
ing herbs  or  fruit,  in  a  garden  or  orchard.  This  humanity  is  even  extended 
to  the  lower  creation,  which  enjoy  at  Constantinople  a  sort  of  paradise. 
The  dogs,  though  excluded  as  unclean  from  the  houses  and  mosques,  are 


A  SOJOURN  AM03G  THE  TURKS.  219 

allowed  to  multiply  in  the  streets,  until  they  become  a  perfect  nuisance  ;  the 
doves  feed  at  liberty  on  the  grain,  in  the  harbor  which  echoes  with  the 
crowded  clang  of  unmolested  sea  birds. 

The  empire  of  the  Turks  is  in  a  state  of  decay.  That  power  which  but  a 
few  centuries  since,  was  the  terror  of  all  Christendom,  is  melting  before  the 
light  of  a  higher  civilization,  as  all  nations  are  doomed  to  do,  who  are  not 
possessed  of  those  great  principles  of  christian  vitality,  upon  which  alone,  is 
impressed  undying  permanence. 

The  evidences  of  the  decay  of  the  empire  are  forcibly  presented  by  a  late 
traveler.  "  When  a  traveler,"  says  he,  "  from  Europe  passes  eastward  out 
of  christian  Europe  into  the  Turkish  Empire,  nothing  strikes  him  so  forcibly 
as  the  utter  desolation  and  decay  everywhere  seen.  Among  the  most 
obvious  of  these  evidences  are  the  ruins  of  former  arts,  indicating  the 
grandeur  and  magnificence  of  a  former  civilized  state  of  society.  As  the 
traveler  passes  through  a  forest  he  will  probably  stumble  on  a  magnificent 
paved  road,  now  covered  up  with  bushes,  and  only  visible  where  the  path 
crosses  and  lays  it  bare  ;  and  on  passing  the  streams  he  will  often  see  the 
remnants  of  magnificent  bridges  spanning  them — and  on  the  borders  of  the 
seas  the  remains  of  magnificent  harbors,  now  desolate — Smyrna  and  Constan- 
tinople, perhaps,  being  the  only  ancient  ports  of  the  Empire  that  have  main- 
tained their  position  as  commercial  cities. 

Another  evidence  of  her  general  decay  is  found  in  her  vast  and  dreary 
cemeteries,  far  away  from  the  habitations  of  man,  presenting  at  a  distant  view 
the  aspect  of  an  extended  area  of  white  marble — portions  of  the  ruins  of  a 
city  disappearing  in  the  neighborhood,  and  a  great  city,  as  evident  from  the 
character  of  the  ruins  of  fine  architectural  buildings,  broken  up  and  placed 
at  the  head  and  foot  of  these  tombs.  Travelers  speak  of  this  as  one  of  the 
most  impressive  evidences  of  the  decay  of  Turkey. 

The  third  sign  of  her  decay  is  the  diminishing  of  her  trade — arising  from 
two  causes,  the  natural  inertness  of  the  Mohammedan  population,  and  the 
superiority  of  the  European  christian  powers  in  matters  of  art  and  of  science. 
Turkey  differs  from  all  the  governments  of  Europe  in  these  respects,  that  she 
has  no  public  debt,  never  makes  a  loan,  and  has  no  protective  duty.  She 
simply  asks  money  from  her  subjects  to  pay  her  current  expenses,  and  in 
doing  so,  does  not  ask  it  by  taxation — but  the  country  beng  divided  in 
pachalates  and  chieftainships,  the  Pacha,  who  receives  an  intimation  from  the 
Sultan  of  the  amount  required,  instructs  the  chieftains  of  his  district,  who 
make  the  collection  through  the  heads  of  the  communities — the  Moslems 
being  levied  on  by  families,  the  Christians  through  their  bishop,  and  the  Jews 
through  their  rabbi ;  not  being  subjected  within  the  forms  of  any  legal 
restriction,  extortion  in  the  collection  of  this  money  being  universal.  Owing 
to  the  superiority  of  European  skill,  and  the  want  of  any  encouragement  in  Tur- 
key for  any  domestic  products,  not  only  do  the  exports  cease,  but  the  whole 
consumption  is  supplied  from  foreign  sources. 

The  fourth  evidence  of  the  decay  of  Turkey  is  in  her  religion,  a  fact 
demonstrated  by  the  condition  of  her  mosques  rapidly  decaying,  many  of  them 
closed,  and  some  converted  into  caravan  stations  ;  also  by  the  diminution 


220  A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TI3RKS. 

.n  the  attendance  upon  public  worship,  and  by  the  reduction  in  the  num 
.  er  of  pilgrimages  to  the   sacred   cities  of  Jerusalem,  Damascus,  Medina 
and  Mecca. 

The  fanaticism  of  the  Turks — their  belief  that  they  were  predestined  instru- 
ments ordained  by  God  to  reduce  the  world  to  himself,  made  their  early  con- 
quests an  easy  task.  When  the  tide  was  turned,  and  Turkey  was  obliged  to 
accept  the  protection  of  France,  as  a  shield  against  the  designs  of  Russia,  she 
relinquished  hei  mission  as  a  conquering  power,  and  the  main  element  which 
had  given  her  vitality.  With  her  decay,  the  isolated  christian  nations  within 
her  bosom,  began  to  emerge  into  life,  and  became  not  only  acknowledged, 
but  emancipated,  and  within  the  last  ten  years  all  the  christian  nations  are 
free.  The  christian  nations  became  the  artisans,  the  merchants,  the  bankers, 
factors,  etc.;  and  the  result  has  been  that  while  the  Turkish  population  has 
diminished,  the  christian  population  has  acquired  almost  all  the  wealth  of 
the  country,  and  have  now  in  their  hands  the  administration  of  all  civil  affairs, 
and  of  all  commerce.  The  Black  sea  and  the  Mediterranean  are  now  covered 
by  christian  steamers,  as  is  also  the  Nile,  and  within  the  last  five  or  six  years 
the  Euphrates  and  the  Tigris. 

The  course  of  events  indicated  only  three  possible  alternatives  in  relation 
to  the  destiny  of  Turkey — either  she  must  be  regenerated — or  secondly,  there 
must  be  a  restoration  of  the  ancient  christian  states  on  the  soil  which  they 
once  owned — or  thirdly,  Turkey  must  be  dismembered  and  distributed  among 
the  present  European  powers.  Turkey  saw  this  alternative,  and  choosing  the 
first,  in  1839,  she  assembled  a  national  convention  outside  the  city  of  Constanti- 
nople. There  a  decree  was  read,  containing  these  two  points — first,  to  conci- 
liate the  Moslem  population,  it  attributed  the  decay  of  the  empire  to  the 
neglect  of  the  Mohammedan  religion,  yet  ordained  a  christian  constitution 
and  system  of  laws — an  open  declaration  in  the  heart  of  Turkey,  that  she 
cannot  be  regenerated  without  accepting  christian  influence.  A  subsequent 
decree  established  common  schools,  the  government  aiming  to  take  education 
out  of  the  hands  of  the  priesthood,  thus  further  indicating  the  assimilation 
to  christian  institutions.  But  change  the  religion  of  Turkey,  and  the  Turkish 
Empire  ceases. 

The  conclusion  then  is  this,  whether  Turkey  shall  be  regenerated  by  the 
efforts  of  her  own  government,  becoming  christian  in  her  institutions  and  her 
life  ;  or  the  christian  states  be  restored  on  the  soil  they  once  possessed  ;  or 
whether  she  be  divided  among  the  European  powers,  it  will  cease  to  be  a 
political  power — and  the  vast  valley  that  shuts  out  the  living  powerful  influ- 
ences of  Europe  to  the  west,  and  prevents  them  meeting  the  powerful  spring- 
tide eastward,  will  be  swept  away — and  when  that  shall  be,  the  time  is  not 
far  distant,  when  all  that  extensive  portion  of  the  old  world  shall  be  rege- 
nerated by  the  powerful  christian  influences  of  the  West,  and  enter  the  family 
of  enlightened  civilized  christian  nations." 


Aubrey  de  Vere,  an  English  traveler,  approached  Constantinople  in  a 
steamer  from  the  sduth,  up  through  the  sea  of  Marmora.  He  had  been 
occupied   some   time   in   the  cabin,    when  a    fellow-traveler  entered,    and 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  221 

announced  that  they  were  approaching  Constantinople.  He  hastened  on 
deck  and  the  view  presented  of  the  city,  on  its  many  hills,  was  the  most 
splendid  of  the  kind  that  this  earth  affords.  He  was  greeted  by  the  sight  of 
gorgeous  palaces,  innumerable  mosques  with  gilded  domes,  minarets,  glisten- 
ing like  needles  of  fire,  surrounded  with  their  shining  crescents,  dome-sur- 
mounted  baths  and  royal  tombs  :  the  magnificent  brilliancy  of  these  was 
relieved  by  the  green  of  the  dense  foliage  of  the  immense  gardens  and  trees 
which  adorn  the  capital,  mingled  with  clumps  of  cypress  that  skirt  the  hills, 
and  give  the  effect  of  a  city  standing  in  a  forest,  but  partially  cleared.  Sc 
intensely  is  a  fair  prospect  prized  by  a  Turk,  that  on  every  commanding  spot 
the  house  of  some  oriental  is  placed,  with  its  gilded  lattices  gleaming  through 
a  leafy  screen,  and  multitudes  of  the  houses  are  painted  red,  green,  or  blue, 
which  enhances  the  gorgeous  appearance  of  this  great  capital  of  the 
Ottomans* 

To  appreciate  the  extent  of  Constantinople,  it  must  be  recollected  that  for 
all  purposes  of  picturesque  effect  the  various  suburban  towns  constitute  but 
one  city.  The  city  proper,  Galata  and  Pera,  all  on  the  European  side  of 
the  Bosphorus,  and  Scutari  on  the  Asiatic,  as  one  approaches  from  the  south, 
come  at  once  into  view,  each  rising  stage  above  stage  along  the  slopes  of  the 
hills,  in  a  vast  magnificent  amphitheater.  The  effect  of  this  unrivaled  posi- 
tion is,"that  nearly  every  building  of  importance  is  brought  at  once  before  the 
eye,  minaret  and  dome  lifting  themselves  up  one  above  another. 

After  they  had  anchored  they  proceeded  to  land  in  one  of  those  little  fan- 
ciful caiques,  which  dart  to  and  fro  to  the  number  of  thousands  upon  the 
surface  of  the  Golden-Horn,  and  glide  as  lightly  upon  the  water  as  so  many 
graceful  moving  swans. 

The  traveler,  on  entering  the  city  for  the  first  time,  looks  with  dismay  upon 
the  contrast  of  the  view  compared  with  that  which  first  greeted  him  from  the 
sea.  The  streets  are  narrow,  hilly,  ill-paved  and  dirty — the  houses  generally 
small,  often  tawdry  and  half-ruinous.  In  general  the  dwellings  have  no  win- 
dows toward  the  streets,  and  by  law  cannot  exceed  twenty-six  feet  in  height ; 
but  as  one  climbs  the  summits  of  the  citied  hills,  he  is  again  greeted  with 
visions  of  beauty.  He  sees  noble  views  of  the  sea  over  a  glorious  array  of 
towers,  domes  and  gardens,  and  what  is  mean  in  detail  shrinks  into  insignifi- 
cance in  the  grandeur  of  the  whole.  The  houses,  though  small,  and  mostly 
of  wood,  possess  many  picturesque  features,  especially  a  broad,  projecting 
roof,  which  produces  a  striking  contrast  of  light  and  shade.  The  houses  ot 
the  rich  are  sumptuous. 

The  exact  position  of  the  city  proper,  called  by  the  Turks  Stamboul,  is  at 
the  south-western  entrance  of  the  Bosphorus,  where  it  merges  into  the  sea  of 
Marmora.  Just  at  that  point  the  Golden-Horn,  an  exquisitely  beautiful 
little  bay,  about  seven  miles  long,  runs  up  north-west  from  the  Bosphorus, 
leaving  Stamboul  south-west  of  it,  on  a  point  of  land  formed  by  it  and  the 
sea  of  Marmora. 

The  city  is  surrounded  by  a  triangular  wall,  eleven  or  twelve  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  built  on  seven  hills,  with  their  intervening  valleys.  Within 
the  city,  at  the  point  of  the  promontory,  is  the  imperial  palace,  commonly  called 


222  A  SOJOURN"  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

the  Seraglio,  the  other  principal  buildings  are  the  mosques,  of  which  there 
are  said  to  be  four  hundred. 

Another  point  of  land  on  the  European  side,  lying  north-east  of  that  on  which 
the  city  stands,  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Golden-Horn  with  the  Bos- 
phorus.  On  this  point  stands  Galata  and  Tophanna,  the  commercial  quarter, 
and  Pera,  the  Christian  quarter,  a  miniature  collection  of  all  nations,  each  of 
which  finds  its  capital  and  government  in  the  palace  of  its  embassador.  The 
first  occupies  the  extreme  point ;  behind  it  rises  Pera,  and  beyond  stands 
Tophanna.  Farther  up  on  the  Bosphorus,  opposite  the  city,  on  the  Asiatic 
side  of  the  strait,  is  Scutari,  inhabited  by  80,000  Turks. 

The  streets  of  Constantinople  are  mostly  deserted  and  silent,  all  the  activity 
and  business  being  concentrated  in  the  bazaar,  which  is  composed  of  long 
and  wide  galleries,  which  communicate  with  each  other  in  an  irregular 
manner,  and  are  covered  with  arches  or  domes.  Toward  evening,  the  coffee- 
houses, which  are  very  numerous,  are  much  thronged.  The  trade  of  the  city 
is  very  active,  and  carried  on  with  almost  every  part  of  the  world.  Its 
population,  including  the  suburbs,  is  computed  at  800,000. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Golden-Horn  to  the  castles  of  Europe  and  Asia, 
four  miles  above,  the  Bosphorus  is  lined  on  both  sides  with  villages  and 
palaces,  while  behind  them,  are  hills  adorned  with  terraced  gardens,  and 
luxuriant  groves.  There  are,  perhaps,  a  dozen  palaces  whose  gay  colors  and 
gilded  cornices  flash  back  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  are  reflected  in  the  glassy 
waves.  Together  with  the  forts,  batteries,  and  villages,  they  form  a  continua- 
tion of  Scutari  and  Tophanna,  northward  to  the  castles  above  spoken  of. 
At  that  point  the  mountains  press  upon  the  waters,  and  confine  them  within 
straits  scarce  half  a  mile  wide.  Here  the  ancients  pretended  that  the  singing 
of  birds  in  Asia  could  be  heard  in  Europe  ;  a  poetical  image,  doubtless,  tc 
give  an  idea  of  the  narrowness  of  the  channel  at  this  point.  These  two 
massive  gray  castles  standing  on  the  edge  of  the  water,  one  in  Europe,  the 
other  in  Asia,  are  the  northern  keys  of  the  capital,  as  those  of  the  Darda- 
nelles are  the  southern.  Here  Darius  crossed,  on  his  Scythian  expedition  ; 
Xenophon,  with  his  ten  thousand,  on  his  return  to  Europe,  and  Godfrey  of 
Bouillon,  with  his  host  of  Crusaders,  on  his  way  to  Palestine  ;  and  here  too, 
Mohammed  the  Second,  who  built  the  castles,  ferried  over  his  troops,  to 
besiege  the  city.  Above,  the  Bosphorus  is  adorned  with  villages,  palaces, 
and  kiosks,  those  open  pavilions  or  summer  houses,  supported  by  pillars,  in 
which  the  Turk  delights  to  sit  or  recline  at  ease,  and  while  away  the  hours  in 
luxurious  indolence. 

Constantinople  was  founded  in  the  fourth  century,  by  the  Roman  Emperor 
Constantine,  on  the  ruins  of  ancient  Byzantium,  which  had  been  established 
by  the  Greek  navigator  Byzas,  about  a  thousand  years  previously.  For 
successive  centuries  this  eastern  metropolis  of  the  Roman  Empire,  encoun- 
tered alternate  seasons  of  prosperity  and  vicissitude.  As  early  as  668,  the 
Turks  had  appeared  in  arms  against  it.  The  might  of  Islam  burned  to  fling 
itself  upon  the  ancient  Christian  capital.  In  that  wonderful  career  of  suc- 
cess which  had  attended  it  since  the  prophet's  death,  the  capture  of  Con- 
stantinople, had  been  its  highest   aspiration,  for   instinctively  the   crescem 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  223 

hated  the  cross.  The  fated  hour  at  last  arrived.  On  the  6th  of  Apiil  1453, 
Mohammed  II,  commenced  that  siege  which  ended  in  the  loss  to  Christen- 
dom, of  what  had  been  so  long  revered  as  her  eastern  metropolis.  With 
only  some  7000,  or  8000  troops,  and  a  few  monks  and  citizens,  the  last  Con- 
stantine  held  at  bay  for  several  weeks  the  Turkish  force  of  258,000  men. 

The  events  of  that  terrible  siege  can  never  be  forgotten.  Constantinople 
was  torn  asunder  by  religious  factions,  as  furious  as  those  which  tormented 
Jerusalem  in  her  last  agony.  After  consulting  his  astrologers,  Mahomet 
fixed  the  29th  of  May  as  the  day  for  the  final  assault.  On  the  previous  day 
he  harangued  his  chiefs,  and  sent  heralds  through  the  camp,  who  threatened 
with  his  implacable  displeasure  all  who  might  shrink  from  their  duty,  and 
dervises  who  promised  to  the  brave  the  gardens,  the  rivers,  and  the  black- 
eyed  virgins  of  Paradise.  The  ardor  of  the  troops  burned  with  a  steady 
flame,  and  the  camp  resounded  with  shouts  of  **  There  is  no  God  but  God  ; 
and  Mahomet  is  his  Prophet." 

History  contains  no  passage  more  solemn  or  more  pathetic  than  the  last 
farewell  of  the  Greek  chiefs  summoned  by  Constantine  to  his  palace,  the 
night  before  the  general  assault.  The  emperor,  in  his  final  appeal,  held  out 
small  hopes  of  success  ;  but  the  heroic  band  needed  none,  resolved  to  die  in 
the  discharge  of  duty.  They  wept ;  they  embraced  each  other  ;  finally  they 
repaired  to  the  cathedral  of  St.  Sophia,  and  for  the  last  time  before  that  fane 
was  converted  into  a  mosque  partook  of  the  Holy  Communion.  The 
emperor  asked  pardon  of  all  whom  he  might  ever  have  injured,  and  received 
from  his  people,  as  from  his  confessor,  an  absolution  confirmed  erelong  by 
that  of  death.  That  sad  ritual  over,  the  chiefs  mounted  their  horses  once 
more,  and  each  proceeding  to  the  spot  on  the  ramparts  confided  to  his 
especial  care,  waited  there  for  the  morning  light. 

Day  broke  at  last,  and  with  it  the  battle.  The  assault  was  begun  at  the 
same  time  by  sea  and  land;  and  in  a  few  moments  a  mighty  and  multitudinous 
host,  wielded  as  if  by  some  unseen  power  like  that  which  directs  the  tides 
of  the  sea,  was  precipitated  to  the  attack.  To  retreat  or  to  stand  still  for  a 
moment  became  impossible,  even  if  any  in  that  assailing  army  had  wavered. 
Wave  after  wave  was  repulsed,  but  the  conquering  tide  rushed  on  :  those  in 
the  front  ranks  were  pushed  forward  by  the  compact  masses  behind  ;  and  the 
myriads  who  fell  successively  beneath  the  walls  whose  gaping  ruins  we  still 
behold,  filled  up  the  trenches  with  their  bodies,  and  bridged  a  way  for  the 
myriads  that  followed.  The  Pachas  of  Romania,  and  Anatolia  and  Syria, 
and  every  eastern  province  that  bowed  to  the  Crescent,  advanced  successively 
with  jeweled  turban  at  the  head  of  their  respective  hosts.  Attended  by  his 
household  troops,  and  holding  an  iron  mace  in  his  hand,  Mahomet  II,  seated 
on  horseback  close  by,  witnessed  every  assault,  and  rewarded  every  high 
action  with  his  eye.  During  a  temporary  lull,  the  voice  of  the  emperor  was 
heard  uro-incr  his  exhausted  band  to  one  effort  more.  At  that  moment,  Ma- 
hornet,  lifting  his  mace,  gave  the  final  sign  ;  and  the  irresistible  Janizaries, 
whose  strength  had  been  reserved  until  then,  rose  up  and  dashed  themselves 
on  their  prey.  From  that  instant  the  details  of  the  battle  were  lost  in  clouds 
of  smoke  and  flame,  and  the   clamor   of  drums,  trumpets,  and   attabal1* 


224  A  SOJOURN   AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

Constantine  continued  to  fight  to  the  last,  surrounded  by  his  nobles  and 
friends,  who  strengthened  themselves,  as  their  ranks  thinned,  by  shouting  his 
name.  The  last  words  which  he  was  heard  to  utter  were,  "  Cannot  there  be 
/ound  a  Christian  to  slay  me  ?"  Fearing  to  fall  alive  into  the  hands  of  the 
enemy,  he  cast  aside  the  imperial  purple,  and  mingling  in  the  thickest  of  the 
Dattle,  was  struck  down  by  an  unknown  hand,  and  buried  beneath  the  press 
of  the  slain.  In  another  moment,  Constantinople  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
Turks. 

The  vast  size  of  the  city  prevented  the  news  of  its  capture  from  spreading 
for  sometime  to  its  remotest  quarters.  The  sudden  silence  was  probably  the 
first  intimation  of  the  fatal  catastrophe  :  and  what  that  silence  meant,  the 
people  refused  to  ask.  While  the  battle  thundered  around  the  walls,  and 
even  to  the  last  moment,  there  were  multitudes  of  fanatics  who  believed  that 
a  divine  interposition  would  yet  come  to  their  relief.  An  enthusiast,  as  wild 
as  any  that  shook  his  lean  fist  in  scorn  of  Titus  and  his  legions  from  the 
glowing  roofs  of  the  Temple,  had  prophesied  that  the  Turks  would  indeed 
force  their  way  into  Constantinople  ;  but  that,  as  soon  as  they  had  penetrated 
as  far  as  St.  Sophia's,  an  angel  would  descend  from  heaven,  and,  delivering 
a  fiery  sword  to  a  poor  man  seated  at  the  foot  of  Constantine's  column, 
would  say  to  him,  "  Take  this  sword  and  avenge  the  people  of  the  Lord." 
The  commissioned  minister  of  wrath  was  then  to  arise,  and  drive  the  inva- 
ders back  to  their  burning  sands.  When  the  fatal  news  had  spread,  the 
panic-striken  population  of  Constantinople,  urged  by  an  irresistible  instinct, 
rushed  with  one  accord  to  the  long-deserted  shrine  of  St.  Sophia.  No  angel 
but  the  angel  of  Retribution  met  them  there.  In  a  few  minutes  the  senators 
and  their  slaves  were  bound  together  in  couples  ;  the  prelate  and  the  court- 
jester  were  goaded  along  side  by  side  ;  the  hands  of  the  matron  were  tied 
together  with  her  vail,  and  those  of  the  nun  with  her  sacred  girdle ;  and  on 
all  sides  were  heard  the  wild  farewell  and  the  wails  of  despair.  Another 
sound,  erelong,  was  heard  above  that  lament.  From  the  loftiest  pinnacle 
of  St.  Sophia,  the  clear  voice  of  the  Muezzin,  piercing  the  golden  sunset, 
proclaimed  "  There  is  no  God  but  God  ;"  and  in  a  few  minutes  more  Ma- 
homet II,  offered  up  his  thanksgiving  before  that  high  altar  at  which  Con- 
stantine  had  the  night  before  received  the  communion,  and  at  which,  a  few 
months  earlier,  the  united  worship  of  the  two  churches  (the  Greek  and 
Roman  Catholic)  had  been  solemnized. 

The  outward  aspect  of  the  city  is  true  to  its  character  and  history.  No 
one  has  built  for  posterity  because  no  one  could  trust  to  the  future.  The 
rich  have  spent  their  wealth  on  luxurious  divans  and  rich  carpets,  not  on 
marble  halls,  because  they  knew  that  before  the  latter  was  completed,  the 
bow-string  might  be  their  portion.  At  one  moment  a  man  is  a  slave  and  the 
next  he  is  a  Grand  Vizier  ;  then  the  wheel  of  fortune  goes  round,  and  he  is 
an  exile.  In  all  respects  the  external  features  of  Constantinople  are  charac- 
teristic of  an  empire  founded  on  a  faith,  and  of  a  people  gravely  devoted  to 
pleasure,  yet  addicted  also  to  meditation,  and  a  blind  submission  to  fate. 
The  three  ideas  which  they  express  are,  religion,  enjoyment,  death.  The  first 
is  represented  by  the  mosques  and  minarets,  which  tower  above  everything 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  225 

else ;  the  second,  by  the  ample  baths,  and  beautiful  fountains  with  their  pro- 
jecting roofs,  Moorish  pannel  works,  and  gilded  lattices.  The  idea  of  death 
confronts  you  wherever  you  move  through  this  paradise  of  the  senses,  noi 
only  in  the  cemeteries  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  but  in  many  a  lofty,  dome- 
'Surmounted  tomb,  scattered  throughout  the  city,  in  which  a  sultan  receives 
in  death,  the  filial  veneration  of  his  subjects. 

"  The  first  of  these  tombs,"  says  De  Vere,  "  which  I  saw  took  me  by  sur- 
prise. Not  knowing  what  it  was,  I  inquired  of  my  guide  concerning  its 
destination.  "  Go  near  to  it,"  he  said,  "  and  you  will  discover."  It  was  a 
hexagonal  building  of  white  marble,  surrounded  by  a  projecting  arcade  of 
pillars,  surmounted  by  a  dome,  wreathed  around  by  lilies,  which  forced  their 
way  up  through  its  foundations,  and  partially  shaded  by  a  rifted  planetree, 
which  flung  the  shadow  of  its  waving  branches  on  the  white  walls  and  golden 
lattices.  Approaching  the  latter,  and  looking  through  them,  I  beheld  beneath 
a  vaulted  and  gilded  roof,  and,  resting  on  a  rich  carpet,  a  coffin  slanting  up- 
ward toward  the  head,  placed  on  a  stately  bier,  and  supporting,  at  the  upper 
end,  a  white  turban  and  a  plume  of  sable  feathers.  At  each  side  were 
ranged  other  coffins,  smaller,  but  of  various  sizes,  and  without  turbans  or 
plumes,  on  which  a  few  beams,  struggling  through  the  narrow  and  arched 
windows  immediately  under  the  roof,  and  half  lost  in  the  thick  walls,  fell  with 
a  feeble  luster.  A  circle  of  lamps  was  suspended  from  the  roof,  and  in 
front  of  the  coffins  stood  five  or  six  lofty  tapers,  about  twelve  feet  high,  on 
golden  pedestals.  Within  all  was  stillness  and  voluptuous  gloom  :  without, 
the  softness  of  the  air  and  brightness  of  the  sunshine  derived  an  additional 
charm  from  the  cooing  of  the  doves  in  the  plane-tree,  and  on  the  roof  of  the 
building.  "  It  is  the  Sultan  Solyman,"  said  my  guide.  "  In  the  large 
coffin  beside  him  lies  Roxalana,  his  wife.  The  small  coffins  contain  some  of 
his  children,  whom  he  put  to  death."  "  And  why  did  he  put  them  to 
death  ?"  I  asked.  "  Oh,  he  thought  they  might  become  dangerous,"  was 
the  reply.  There  they  repose  together,  the  parent  and  the  murdered  children, 
in  peaceful  reunion.  Probably  those  children  thought  there  was  as  little  to 
be  surprised  at  in  their  fate  as  my  cicerone  did.  A  belief  in  fatalism  recon- 
ciles men  to  all  things.  A  real  belief  in  Providence  would  do  as  much  to 
tranquilize,  without  interfering  with  freedom  of  action. 

The  bearing  of  the  people  as  you  pass  them  in  the  streets  at  Constanti- 
nople, is  in  strange  harmony  with  the  city.  The  women  who  glide  past  you^ 
beside  fountain  and  garden-wall,  in  their  long  white  robes  and  vails,  which 
allow  no  part  of  the  face  to  appear  but  the  dark  and  mournful  eyes,  might 
be  almost  taken  for  ghosts  revisiting  the  scenes  of  past  delights.  Not  less 
singular  is  the  effect  when  those  of  a  higher  rank  and  more  splendid  attire, 
drive  slowly  by  in  a  hearse-like  carriage,  consisting,  as  it  does,  of  a  shallow 
open  body,  richly  gilded,  without  springs,  and  mantled  by  a  canopy,  some- 
times of  black  cloth,  and  sometimes  of  a  less  gloomy  color,  and  drawn  by 
slow  heavy  oxen.  In  place  of  the  merry  laugh,  the  flashing  eye,  and  the 
elastic  gate,  there  was  in  each  Turk  whom  I  met,  an  expression  of  melan- 
choly self-possession,  which  could  hardly  have  been  more  pronounced,  had 
he  been  invariably  under  the  influence  of  opium.  In  place  of  billiards  ot 
15 


226  A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

dice,  or  any  active  game,  Jhe  everlasting  pipe,  long  or  short,  crooked  o) 
straight,  was  the  resource  of  those  who  had  no  occupation,  and  of  many 
who  had.  Buying  and  selling,  bargaining  and  conversing,  seemed  to  be 
carried  on  in  a  state  of  somnambulism.  Pleasure  itself  seemed  a  serious 
thing,  and  conserve  of  roses  was  handed  to  the  customer  with  an  air  of  heavy 
sedateness.  "Eat,"  seemed  the  address  of  the  grave  Mussulmen,  "eat,  0 
true  beliovei,  before  you  die." 

The  bazaar  of  Constantinople  is  one  of  its  most  important  regions,  being, 
pehaps,  only  equaled  in  general  estimation  and  reverence,  by  the  Sultan's 
seraglio,  which  is  not  a  palace  merely,  but  a  vast  and  important  district  of 
Stamboul,  or  the  city  proper.  The  bazaar  is,  in  fact,  the  palace  of  the 
people,  where,  shaded  from  the  heat,  each  man  may  roam  in  a  world  as 
splendid  as  a  mine,  or  the  jeweled  caverns  existing  in  a  child's  -imagination. 
To  one  who  has  an  eye  for  rich  and  quaint  pictorial  effects,  the  bazaar 
is  an  inexhaustible  storehouse.  The  roofs  of  its  long  and  narrow  streets  are 
supported  by  stone  arches,  sometimes  connected  by  wooden  galleries  which 
span  the  dark  passages  below  like  bridges.  If  you  take  your  stand  upon  one 
of  these  naileries,  and  look  along  from  arch  to  arch,  and  down  upon  the  mov- 
ing groups  beneath,  dressed  in  the  costume  of  all  nations,  and  seen  sometimes 
in  shadow,  ana  sometimes  by  the  oblique  light  of  a  slanting  beam,  you  fancy 
yourself  in  the  aisles  of  a  cathedral  without  limits  ;  albeit  one  devoted  ex- 
clusively to  the  service  of  the  money-changers.  If  you  descend  from  that 
aerial  station  you  find  yourself  in  the  midst  of  a  scene  not  easily  to  be  matched 
fbr  richness.  As  in  a  garden  the  splendor  of  coloring  is  much  increased 
jrhere  flowers  of  the  same  species  are  allowed  to  flourish  in  large  unbroken 
masses,  so  the  goigeous  effect  of  the  bazaar  is  enhanced  by  the  circumstance 
that  to  every  branch  of  trade  a  separate  portion  of  it  is  allotted. 

The  most  brilliant  part  of  this  vaulted  region  is  perhaps  the  armory,  hung 
as  it  is  with  every  species  of  arms,  ancient  and  modern,  for  use  or  for  display; 
helmets  and  shields,  suits  donned  in  many  a  chivalrous  field,  glittering  spears, 
Indian  bows,  blades  from  Damascus,  scimetars  from  Egypt,  every  species  of 
harness  in  short  for  man  or  horse,  embossed  with  gold,  and  often  with  gems, 
enriched  with  arabesques,  and  disposed  in  the  most  fantastic  patterns.  In 
another  part  of  the  bazaar,  and  for  the  benefit  of  a  softer  class  of  customers, 
you  find  yourself  in  a  meadowy  wilderness  of  Cachemire  shawls,  numerous 
enough,  one  might  imagine,  to  cover  all  the  white  shoulders  that  droop 
beneath  ermine  and  diamond  in  all  the  European  capitals.  In  another  part 
are  suspended  innumerable  little  mirrors  enchased  with  pearl,  and  mounted 
with  golden  handles,  which  are  among  the  most  favorite  possessions  of  the 
daughters  of  the  East,  adorning  their  inmost  retreats,  and  by  no  means  left 
at  home  when  they  make  expeditions  abroad.  Still  more  beautiful  is  that 
part  devoted  to  embroidery  in  silk  and  muslin,  where  you  find  brocaded  stuffs 
stiff  enough  to  stand,  and  embroidered  with  flowers  of  every  color,  and 
mantles  as  if  of  woven  air,  almost  invisible  from  thinness,  except  where  they 
are  covered  in  golden  traceries  with  verses  from  the  Koran,  or  some  Persian 
love  poem.  Other  parts  of  the  bazaar  are  a  blaze  of  jewelry,  radiant  with 
every  sort  of  precious  stone,  separate  or  enwreathed  in  necklaces  and  rosaries, 


A  SOJOURN"  AMONG  THE  1  (JRKS.  227 

or  inlaid  in  precious  cups,  rich  plate,  housings  for  horses,  and  head-dresses 
for  their  riders. 

In  addition  to  this  multitudinous  array,  other  parts  of  this  inclosed  city 
of  trade  are  devoted  to  spices  from  all  parts  of  the  East,  porcelain  of  every 
sort,  fruit,  preserved  and  dry,  and  that  confectionary,  in  the  preparation  of 
which  Constantinople  has  no  western  rival.  There  is  no  conceivable  elabo- 
ration of  fruit  and  sugar,  with  aromatic  gums,  precious  juices,  oils  and 
creams,  which  is  not  to  be  found  here  in  the  prettiest  and  most  various 
shapes,  and  scented  with  the  most  delicate  odors.  The  interest  of  the  scene 
is  much  increased  by  the  strange  aspect  and  bearing  of  the  venders  of  all 
those  articles,  some  of  whom  are  Jews,  others  Turks,  while  others  are  Greeks, 
Armenians  or  Persians.  Many  a  keen  eye  is  fastened  on  the  unwary  Frank 
the  moment  he  is  in  sight,  and  many  a  finger  beckons  him  on  into  the  dusky 
recess  in  which  the  grave  merchant  is  seated  cross-legged  on  his  carpet,  with 
a  pipe  in  his  mouth.  You  enter,  are  hospitably  asked  to  be  seated,  and  are 
perhaps  handed  a  pipe.  In  a  little  time  the  goods  are  produced  with  a  lei- 
surely sedateness,  and  a  price  is  named  at  least  double  their  real  value,  the 
merchant,  if  he  is  a  Persian,  assuring  you  that  in  having  been  directed  to  an 
honest  man  you  prove  that  you  were  born  under  a  fortunate  star,  and  that 
he  is  offering  you  the  article  for  half  what  he  paid  for  it.  You  decline  his 
proposal ;  he  resumes  his  pipe  in  silence  and  apparent  indifference,  and  at 
last  rolls  round  on  you  a  heavy  sleepy  eye,  and  names  half  the  price  he  had 
demanded  before.  Your  interpreter  tells  you  that  this  time  the  price  is  a 
fair  one,  accordingly  you  pay  down  the  money  (the  said  interpreter  of  course 
receiving  a  due  proportion  of  it)  rise  up  and  depart." 

The  seraglio,  a  palace  of  Stamboul,  was  built  by  Mahomet  II,  and  is  among 
the  most  prominent  curiosities  of  Constantinople.  It  stands  at  the  extreme 
south-eastern  point  of  the  city,  at  the  junction  of  the  Golden-Horn  with  the 
sea  of  Marmora,  and  forms  a  vast  triangle,  inclosed  by  battlemented  walls, 
something  like  three  miles  in  circuit.  It  is  composed  of  gardens,  terraces, 
palaces,  kiosks,  barracks,  and  out  buildings  of  all  sorts  ;  and  contains  a  large 
number  of  servants,  guards,  women  and  pages,  for  the  personal  service  of  the 
Sultan. 

Certain  portions  of  the  Seraglio  are  open  daily  for  the  inspection  of  the 
public  ;  others  can  be  visited  by  foreigners  furnished  with  the  necessary  per- 
mit, or  accompanied  by  some  dignitary  of  state  ;  but  there  is  one  portion 
whose  door-sill  is  never  crossed  without  exposure  to  the  most  frightful  punish- 
ment.    Thus  is  that  place  one  of  the  mysteries  of  the  world. 

Eight  principal  gates  give  access  to  the  Seraglio  ;  five  on  the  side  toward 
the  sea,  and  three  on  that  of  the  city.  Each  of  these  gates  has  been  the 
scene  of  some  bloody  drama,  so  frequent  in  Turkish  history,  more  especially, 
the  imperial  gate.  To  the  right  and  left  of  this  gate  are  two  niches  in  which 
were  deposited  the  bleeding  heads  of  the  victims  condemned  by  the  Sultan, 
and  where  the  heads  of  the  massacred  Janizaries  were  heaped  up  to  the  top 
of  the  gate,  when  the  Sultan  Mahomet  destroyed  that  famous  soldiery  in  1825. 

This  magnificent  entrance  opens  upon  the  square  of  St.  Sophia,  opposite  a 
beautiful  marble  and  porcelain  fountain.    It  leads  into  a  large  irregular  court. 


228  A.  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

surrounded  on  every  side  by  buildings,  and  embellished  with  trees  and  foun- 
tains. First,  upon  the  left,  is  the  church  of  St.  Irene,  built  by  Constantine  the 
Great,  now  used  as  a  museum,  and  containing  a  valuable  and  curious  collection 
of  ancient  and  modern  weapons  of  warfare,  and  the  gold  and  silver  keys  of  the 
cities  conquered  by  the  Turks.  Opposite  are  the  stables,  containing  the 
thousand  horses  of  the  Grand  Seignior,  and  the  dwellings  of  the  chief  officers 
of  state.  At  the  end  of  the  court  is  an  elegantly  ornamented  gate,  covered 
with  paintings  and  inscriptions ;  it  is  called  the  Gate  of  Salutations,  and 
beneath  the  vestibule  of  this  gate  disgraced  functionaries,  as  they  left  the 
palace,  received  from  the  executioner  the  famous  silk  rope. 

By  following  the  platform  of  the  palace  to  the  left,  we  reach  by  a  narrow 
balcony,  supporting  lofty  terraces,  the  Harem,  or  residence  of  the  wives  and 
mistresses  of  the  Sultan.  We  cannot  approach  this  interdicted  spot — we  can 
only  look  upon  its  grated  windows  and  pleasant  balconies,  surrounded  by 
trellises  and  blinds,  interwoven  with  flowers. 

No  one  knows  what  transpires  within  the  walls  of  this  palace,  within 
which  inexhaustible  wealth  has  collected  all  the  wonders  of  luxury;  marble 
baths,  enchanting  gardens,  legions  of  slaves,  having  no  other  will  than  the 
caprice  of  their  master,  and  within  are  from  four  to  five  hundred  women  from 
among  the  most  beautiful  in  Asia,  Africa,  and  Oriental  Europe.  Many 
among  them  are  scarcely  known  by  the  Sultan  ;  they  see  no  one  but  their 
odious  guardian,  and  it  can  be  easily  imagined  that  this  barbarous  seclusion 
must  result  in  frightful  demoralization. 

It  is  almost  incredible  that  a  man,  risking  a  frightful  death,  with  small 
chance  of  escape  or  success,  would  dare  to  cross  the  hermetically  sealed  door- 
sill  of  these  mysterious  apartments,  yet  a  story  is  told  of  a  young  Russian 
diplomatist,  some  years  since,  having  bribed  a  young  Jewish  girl  who  sold 
perfumes  to  the  captives  of  the  harem  to  introduce  him,  in  a  female  dress, 
where,  it  is  said,  he  lived  like  a  Sultan  two  entire  days.  At  the  end  of  that 
time,  having  been  detected  by  a  eunuch,  and  seeing  no  other  means  of  escape, 
with  a  desperate  effort,  he  wrenched  off  the  bars  of  a  window,  and  leaped 
into  the  Bosphorus.     That  same  night  he  embarked  for  Odessa. 

To  enter  the  harem  of  the  meanest  Mussulman  would  be  a  more  dangerous 
undertaking  still,  as  the  daring  adventurer  could  not  hope  to  remain  con- 
cealed for  an  hour  in  a  small  private  house,  while  the  thousand  crooks  and 
turns  of  the  seraglio,  and  its  infinite  number  of  inhabitants,  might  leave  a  fair 
chance  of  escape. 

The  celebrated  Lady  Mary  Wortley  Montague  was  the  first  Frank  woman 
known  to  have  been  allowed  to  have  entrance  into  the  sacred  apartments  of 
the  harem,  a  word  by  the  way,  the  literal  signification  of  which  is,  "  The 
Forbidden."  The  harem  she  visited  was  that  of  the  Kiyaya,  Deputy  to  the 
Grand  Vizier.  Her  account  of  this  visit,  written  more  than  a  century  since, 
is  here  given. 

"  I  was  met  at  the  door  by  two  black  eunuchs,  who  led  me  through  a  long 
gallery  between  two  ranges  of  beautiful  young  girls,  with  their  hair  finely 
plaited,  almost  hanging  to  their  feet,  all  dressed  in  fine  light  damasks,  bro- 
caded with  silver.     I  was  sorry  that  decency  did  not  permit  me  to  stop  t« 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  229 

consider  them  nearer,  but  that  thought  was  lost  upon  my  entrance  into  a 
large  room,  or  rather  pavilion,  built  round,  with  gilded  sashes,  which  were 
most  of  them  thrown  up,  and  the  trees  planted  near  them  gave  an  agreeable 
shade,  which  hindered  the  sun  from  being  troublesome.  The  jessamines  and 
honeysuckle  that  twisted  round  their  trunks,  shed  a  soft  perfume,  increased 
by  a  white  marble  fountain,  playing  sweet  water  in  the  lower  part  of  th« 
room,  which  fell  into  three  or  four  basins  with  a  pleasing  sound. 

The  roof  was  painted  with  all  sorts  of  flowers,  falling  out  of  gilded  baskets, 
that  seemed  tumbling  down.  On  a  sofa  raised  three  steps,  and  covered  with 
fine  Persian  carpets,  sat  the  kiyaya's  lady,  leaning  on  cushions  of  white  satin, 
embroidered  ;  and  at  her  feet  sat  two  young  girls  about  twelve  years  old, 
lovely  as  angels,  dressed  perfectly  rich,  and  almost  covered  with  jewels.  But 
they  were  hardly  seen  near  the  fair  Fatima,  (for  that  is  her  name,)  so  much 
her  beauty  effaced  everything  I  have  seen,  nay,  all  that  has  been  called 
lovely  either  in  England  or  Germany.  I  must  own  that  I  never  saw  anything  so 
gloriously  beautiful,  nor  can  I  recollect  a  face  that  would  have  been  taken 
notice  of  near  hers.  She  stood  up  to  receive  me,  saluting  me  after  their 
fashion,  putting  her  hand  to  her  heart  with  a  sweetness  full  of  majesty  that 
no  court  breeding  could  give.  She  ordered  cushions  to  be  given  me,  and 
took  care  to  place  me  in  the  corner,  which  is  the  place  of  honor.  I  confess  I 
was  so  struck  with  admiration,  that  I  could  not  for  some  time  speak  to  her, 
being  wholly  taken  up  in  gazing.  The  surprising  harmony  of  features,  that 
charming  result  of  the  whole  !  that  exact  proportion  of  body !  that  lovely 
bloom  of  complexion  unsullied  by  art  !  the  unutterable  enchantment  of  her 
smile  !  But  her  eyes  ! — large  and  black,  with  all  the  soft  languishment  of  the 
blue  !  every  turn  of  her  face  discovering  some  new  grace. 

After  my  first  surprise  was  over,  I  endeavored,  by  nicely  examining  her 
face,  to  £nd  out  some  imperfection,  without  any  fruit  of  my  search,  but  my 
being  clearly  convinced  of  the  error  of  that  vulgar  notion,  that  a  face  exactly 
proportioned,  and  perfectly  beautiful,  would  not  be  agreeable  ;  nature  having 
done  for  her  with  more  success,  what  Apelles  is  said  to  have  essayed,  by  a  col- 
lection of  the  most  exact  features,  to  form  a  perfect  face  ;  add  to  all  this  a 
behavior  so  full  of  grace  and  sweetness,  such  easy  motions,  with  an  air  so 
majestic,  yet  free  from  stiffness  or  affectation,  that  I  am  persuaded,  could  she 
be  suddenly  transported  upon  the  most  polite  throne  of  Europe,  nobody  would 
think  her  other  than  born  and  bred  to  be  a  queen,  though  educated  in  a 
country  we  call  barbarous.  To  say  all  in  a  word,  our  most  celebrated 
English  beauties  would  vanish  near  her. 

She  was  dressed  in  a  caftan  of  gold  brocade,  flowered  with  silver,  very  well 
fitted  to  her  shape,  and  showing  to  admiration  the  beauty  of  her  bosom,  only 
shaded  by  the  thin  gauze  of  her  shift.  Her  drawers  were  pale  pink,  her 
waistcoat  green  and  silver,  her  slippers  white  satin,  finely  embroidered  ;  her 
lovely  arms  adorned  with  bracelets  of  diamonds,  and  her  broad  girdle  set 
round  with  diamonds  ;  upon  her  head  a  rich  Turkish  handkerchief  of  pink 
and  silver,  her  own  fine  black  hair  hanging  a  great  length  in  various  tresses 
and  on  one  side  of  her  head  some  bodkins  of  jewels. 

I  am  afraid  you  will  accuse  me  of  extravagance  in  this  description.     I 


230  A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

think  I  have  read  somewhere  that  women  always  speak  in  raptures  wnen 
they  speak  of  beauty,  and  I  cannot  imagine  why  they  should  not  be  allowed 
to  do  so.  I  rather  think  it  a  virtue  to  be  able  to  admire  without  any  mixture 
of  desire  or  envy.  The  gravest  writers  have  spoken  with  great  warmth  of 
some  celebrated  pictures  and  statues.  The  workmanship  of  Heaven  certainly 
excels  all  our  weak  imitations,  and,  I  think,  has  a  much  better  claim  to  our 
praise.  For  my  part  I  am  not  ashamed  to  own,  I  took  more  pleasure  in 
looking  on  the  beauteous  Fatima  than  the  finest  piece  of  sculpture  could  have 
given  me. 

She  told  me  the  two  girls  at  her  feet  were  her  daughters,  though  she  appeared 
too  young  to  be  their  mother.  Her  fair  maids  were  arranged  below  the  sofa, 
to  the  number  of  twenty,  and  put  me  in  mind  of  the  pictures  of  the  ancient 
nymphs.  I  did  not  think  all  nature  could  have  furnished  such  a  scene  of 
beauty.  She  made  them  a  sign  to  play  and  dance.  Four  of  them  imme- 
diately began  to  play  some  soft  airs  on  instruments,  between  a  lute  and 
guitar,  which  they  accompanied  with  their  voices,  while  the  others  danced 
by  turns.  This  dance  was  very  different  from  what  I  had  seen  before 
Nothing  could  be  more  artful  or  more  proper  to  raise  certain  ideas.  The  tune 
so  soft — the  motions  so  languishing !  accompanied  with  pauses  and  dying  eyes  ! 
half  falling  back,  and  then  recovering  themselves  in  so  artful  a  manner,  that 
I  am  very  positive  the  coldest  and  most  rigid  prude  upon  earth  could  not 
have  looked  upon  them  without  thinking  of  something  not  to  be  spoken  of. 

When  the  dance  was  over,  four  fair  slaves  came  into  the  room  with  silver 
censers  in  their  hands,  and  perfumed  the  air  with  amber,  aloes-wood  and 
other  scents.  After  this  they  served  me  with  coffee  upon  their  knees,  in  the  fine 
Japan  china,  with  soucoups  of  silver  gilt.  The  lovely  Fatima  entertained 
me  all  this  while  in  the  most  polite,  agreeable  manner,  calling  me  often  Guzee 
Sultanum,  or  the  beautiful  sultana,  and  desiring  my  friendship  with  the  best 
grace  in  the  world,  lamenting  that  she  could  not  entertain  me  in  my  own 
language.  When  I  took  my  leave,  two  maids  brought  me  in  a  fine  silver  basket 
of  embroidered  handkerchiefs  ;  she  begged  I  would  wear  the  richest  for  her 
sake,  and  gave  the  others  to  my  woman  and  interpreters.  I  retired  through 
the  same  ceremonies  as  before,  and  could  not  help  thinking  I  had  been  some 
time  in  Mahomet's  paradise,  so  much  was  I  charmed  with  what  I  had  seen." 

The  Turkish  women  are  treated  by  the  men  with  much  kindness,  and  do 
not,  as  is  generally  believed,  suffer  from  caprice  and  brutality.  Notwith- 
standing what  has  been  said  on  the  subject  lately,  Europeans  persist  in  repre- 
senting a  Turk  as  surrounded  by  a  swarm  of  voluptuous  females,  among 
whom  he  can  choose  as  he  pleases.  This  is  a  singular  mistake,  to  take  each 
subject  of  the  empire  for  a  sultan.  There  are  very  few  Turks  in  Constantino- 
ple who  are  allowed  by  law  to  have  more  than  two  or  three  wives,  especially 
as  they  are  always  lodged  in  different  houses,  and  usually  some  distance 
apart.  It  is  true  that  every  husband  furnishes  his  wife  with  as  many  slaves 
as  his  means  will  allow  :  this  is  an  oriental  luxury.  He  is  absolute  master 
iu  his  own  house ;  and  if,  braving  his  wife's  jealousy,  he  is  openly  unfaithful, 
he  incurs  general  disapprobation. 

Miss  Pardoe  obtained  admission  to  the  apartments  of  the  women  in  man) 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  231 

Turkish  families,  and  she  has  lcng  descriptions  of  them,  from  which  we 
gather  the  following1  items  :  The  life  of  the  Turkish  woman  is  a  long  sleep  ; 
not  only  does  she  sleep  for  the  sake  of  rest,  but  for  the  want  of  something 
else  to  do,  thus  you  see  the  Turkish  apartments  are  all  calculated  for  repose  ; 
they  are  furnished  on  three  sides  with  divans,  about  a  foot  from  the  floor; 
these  divans  are  very  soft,  and  covered  with  crimson  stuff,  and  scattered  upon 
them  are  numbers  of  pillows,  embroidered  with  gold  and  silver.  Is  it  cold 
weather  ?  you  will  find  a  copper  vessel  filled  with  burning  coals,  at  the  end 
of  the  room  :  coverings  more  or  less  costly,  elegant  napkins,  and  a  few  small 
rosewood  tables  complete  the  furnishing  of  the  apartment.  The  dweller  in 
this  sleeping  Paradise  has  but  to  arrange  the  pillows,  cross  her  arms,  and 
close  her  eyes  ;  Morpheus  soon  arrives,  and  the  soul  of  this  Turkish  woman 
is  soon  at  liberty  in  the  land  of  dreams.  A  Turkish  woman  says  to  her 
neighbor,  "  Come  to-morrow,  and  take  a  nap  with  me,"  as  naturally  as  an 
American  lady  would  invite  her  friend  to  spend  the  evening  with  her,  and 
bring  her  work.  This  custom  of  sleeping  so  much  tends  to  make  them  grow 
fat,  and  causes  their  hair  to  fall  out  also  ;  Miss  Pardoe  discovered  that  the 
majority  of  the  Turkish  women  wore  wigs. 

The  wife  of  a  merchant  in  easy  circumstances  usually  dresses  at  home,  in 
an  under  waistcoat  of  silk  gauze,  with  a  border  of  fringe  of  narrow  ribbons, 
pantaloons  of  colored  cotton  made  very  full,  and  reaching  to  the  ankle,  her 
feet  are  naked,  but  bj-  her  side  are  beautiful  little  yellow  slippers,  covered 
with  embroidery  and  ornaments.  Their  carpets  are  so  soft  and  thick,  that 
she  seldom  wears  her  slippers,  and  looks  upon  them  rather  as  articles  of 
luxury  than  use.  Over  this  vest,  she  wears  a  cotton  robe,  of  some  shining 
color,  with  a  fringed  border,  open  in  front,  with  a  long  train  confined  at  the 
waist  by  a  cashmere  scarf.  In  winter  a  close  green  or  violet  colored  vest 
trimmed  with  fur,  completes  her  costume.  When  she  goes  out  she  wears  a 
turban  with  its  thick  vail,  and  long  olive-colored  cloak  and  yellow  boots  over 
her  slippers. 

The  Abmeidan,  the  grand  square  of  Stamboul,  is  an  oblong  shape,  bor- 
dered upon  one  side  by  the  very  beautiful  mosque  of  Achmet,  and  on  the 
other  by  miserable  dwellings.  Near  this  square  are  the  ruins  of  the  barracks 
of  the  Janizaries,  where  in  the  short  space  of  a  few  hours,  in  the  year  1825, 
Mahmoud  exterminated  that  infuriated  soldiery,  who  had  for  a  length  of 
time  tyrannized  over  the  people  and  the  Sultan  himself. 

The  extermination  was  brought  about  by  an  Egyptian  officer  striking  a 
Turkish  soldier.  The  Janizaries  rose  en  masse.  The  Sultan,  informed  of  it, 
and  prepared  for  emergency,  was  with  his  principal  counselors  in  one  of  the 
gardens  upon  the  Bosphorus.  He  hastened  to  the  Seraglio,  seized  the  sacred 
standard  of  Mahomet ;  the  Muftis  and  Ulemas  assembled  around  this  stand- 
ard, swearing  the  destruction  of  the  Janizaries;  the  regular  troops  and  faithful 
Mussulmen  armed  themselves,  and  rallied  around  their  Sultan.  He,  himself, 
advanced  on  horseback,  at  the  head  of  the  Seraglio  troops,  the  Janizaries 
assembled  upon  the  Abmeidan,  respected  him  ;  he  traversed  this  mutinous 
crowd  several  times,  risking  death  a  thousand  times,  but  animated  with  that 
supernatural  courage  which  decision  always  inspires.     That  moment  was  to 


232  A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

be  the  last  of  his  life,  or  the  first  of  his  freedom  and  of  his  power.  The 
Janizaries,  deaf  to  his  commands,  refused  to  submit,  they  gathered  from  all 
parts  of  the  city  to  the  number  of  40,000  men.  The  faithful  troops  of  the 
Sultan,  the  artillerymen  and  infantry  occupied  all  the  outlets  of  the  streets 
opposite  the  Hippodrome.  The  Sultan  gave  the  order  to  fire,  the  artillery- 
men hesitated,  a  daring  officer,  Kara  Djehennem,  rushed  to  one  of  the 
cannons,  snapped  his  pistol  over  its  priming,  and  laid  the  first  group  of  Jani- 
zaries low  in  the  dust  by  the  discharge. 

The  remaining  Janizaries  gave  way;  but  the  cannon  played  upon  them  from 
every  side,  fire  devoured  the  barracks  of  the  prisoners  in  that  narrow  space, 
thousands  perished  beneath  the  crumbling  walls,  by  the  iron  sleet,  and  by 
fire.  The  extermination  commenced,  and  ceased  not  until  the  last  Janizary 
present  had  fallen:  120,000  men,  enrolled  into  this  corps,  were  prey  to  the 
fury  of  the  people  and  the  Sultan.  The  waters  of  the  Bosphorus  bore  their 
corpses  to  the  sea  of  Marmora.  The  remainder  were  banished  to  Asia 
Minor,  and  perished  on  the  way,  the  Empire  was  delivered — the  Sultan,  more 
absolute  than  any  prince  had  ever  been  before,  had  now  none  but  willing 
slaves. 

The  largest  of  the  palaces  of  the  Sultan  in  the  neighborhood  of  Constanti- 
nople is  Beshik-Tash,  situated  on  the  Bosphorus.  '*  I  made  an  excursion," 
says  De  Vere,  "  to  it,  accompanied  by  my  guide.  As  we  approached  its 
gate,  advancing  through  a  narrow  passage,  we  met  the  Sultan,  who  rode 
forth  attended  by  his  suite.  He  rode  a  white  horse,  was  covered  with  a  dark 
blue  cloak  and  wore  a  red  cap.  His  countenance  was  pale,  and  marked  by 
an  expression  of  sorrowful  exhaustion.  Although  but  twenty-three  or  twenty- 
four  years  of  age,  he  looks  to  he  forty,  the  pleasures  of  the  harem  having 
brought  upon  him  a  premature  old  age.  His  dark,  melancholy  eye  rested 
upon  me  as  he  passed,  but  I  cannot  say  he  looked  at  me,  and  if  he  saw  me 
it  was  as  he  might  have  seen  a  dark  streak  on  the  wall  close  to  where  I  stood. 
That  gaze,  in  which  no  distinction  is  made  between  an  animate  and  an  in- 
animate object,  appears  peculiar  to  the  East." 

The  Sultan  Abdul  Medjid,  came  into  power  in  1839,  he  being  then  but 
eighteen  years  of  age.  His  father  seeing  the  superiority  of  the  European 
troops,  had  begun  to  discipline  them  on  the  French  military  discipline,  and  to 
attire  them  in  the  European  costume.  These  and  other  reforms,  assimilating 
the  people  to  the  European  standard,  were  adopted  by  Redschid  Pacha, 
whom  the  present  sultan  appointed  Grand  Vizier,  and  a  constitution  was 
given  to  the  empire  based  on  a  European  model,  which  allows  every  subject 
freedom  of  religion  and  security  of  life  and  property.  Since  then,  the  spirit 
of  hostility  to  the  Christians  has  rapidly  been  disappearing,  by  intercourse 
and  the  spread  of  intelligence. 

Constantinople  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  vicinity  of  Belgrade,  con- 
veyed by  ingenious  pipes  and  resevoirs,  this  is  perhaps  the  only  thing  of 
public  utility  in  the  city,  that  is  regularly  organized,  there  are  no  pavements, 
no  lights,  no  names  to  the  streets,  no  numbering  of  the  houses,  nor  no  police 
or  civil  officers  in  case  of  accident,  or  even  fires,  which  are  so  frequent,  thai 
the  duration  of  a  house  here  is  estimated  not  to  be  over  five  or  six  years. 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  233 

"  Constantinople  is  the  great  encampment  of  Islam  on  the  shores  oJ 
Europe.  The  Turks  themselves,  believe  that  in  the  Book  of  Fate,  a  da)  U 
written,  on  which  they  will  have  to  turn  their  faces  once  more  toward  the  tomb 
of  their  prophet.  Perhaps  this  it  is  which  makes  each  inhabitant  contented 
with  his  frail  and  humble  abode,  and  to  regard  those  conflagrations  which 
perpetually  occur  in  the  city,  as  slight  evils.  A  fire,  larger  or  smaller  is 
always  raging  in  some  part  of  the  narrow  wooden  streets  of  Stamboul.  "  I 
soon,"  continues  De  Vere,  "  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  one  of  these 
conflagrations,  which  seem  to  be  regarded  by  the  people  in  the  light  of  an 
amusement.  Vast  multitudes  moved,  in  what  for  a  Turk  is  haste,  toward 
the  spot.  Joining  them,  I  found  a  whole  street  of  houses,  from  which  clouds 
of  smoke  were  issuing,  and  from  which,  it  was  expected  every  moment  that 
the  flames  would  burst.  In  expectation  of  this  event,  piles  of  carpet  and 
cushions  had  been  brought  from  the  neighboring  houses,  and  placed  where- 
ever  room  could  be  found.  On  these  comfortable  seats  the  multitude  had 
established  themselves,  the  men  in  one  part  sedately  smoking,  the  women  in 
another,  now  looking  on,  and  now  playing  with  their  children.  In  a  moment 
refreshments  of  all  sorts  were  provided — sweetmeats,  confectionary,  and 
sherbet,  by  a  number  of  rival  purveyors,  who  advanced  with  alacrity  among 
the  smoke  and  falling  sparks,  evidently  considering  the  scene  of  destruction 
•  sort  of  'benefit,'  got  up  for  their  especial  profit. 

In  a  few  minutes  the  flames  burst  out  with  a  loud  crash,  flinging  an  ex- 
citing heat  into  the  faces  of  the  crowds,  who  without  removing  their  pipes — 
except  to  drink — gazed  on  with  silent  impassioned  interest.  Among  the 
calm  crowd  of  spectators,  were  the  proprietors  of  the  burning  houses, 
smoking  their  pipes  like  their  neighbors,  and  well  assured  that  their  loss  had 
been  determined  by  Allah,  long  before  the  Prophet  was  born/' 

Tho  most  interesting  edifice  in  Constantinople  is  the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia. 
It  was  built  by  the  Emperor  Justinian,  915  years  before  the  conquest  of  Con- 
stantinople, as  a  place  of  christian  worship,  being  dedicated  on  Christmas 
Eve  of  the  year  538.  On  that  occasion  the  Emperor  was  so  overjoyed  as  to 
run  up  to  the  altar  and  exclaim,  "  God  be  praised,  who  hath  esteemed  me 
worthy  to  complete  such  a  work.  Oh  !  Solomon,  I  have  surpassed  thee  !" 
For  nearly  a  thousand  years  it  remained  a  place  of  christian  worship  ;  for 
500  years,  it  has  been  a  Turkish  mosque,  and  its  lofty  dome  may  yet  sus- 
pend its  magnificent  proportions  over  a  christian  altar,  centuries  after  the 
followers  of  the  crescent  have  departed  from  a  European  soil. 

The  Turks  found  this  the  grandest  specimen  of  architecture  upon  the  con- 
quest of  the  empire,  and  subsequently  built  all  their  mosques  upon  this  model 
St.  Sophia,  like  every  other  religious  building  in  Constantinople,  is  approached 
by  a  large  inclosed  court.  This  court  is  paved  with  marble,  and  shaded  by 
plane-trees.  In  the  midst  is  a  marble  fountain  covered  with  a  far-projecting 
octagonal  roof.  In  this  water  the  devotee  washes  himself  before  he  enters 
the  sacred  building ;  and  many  a  group  spread  their  carpets,  and  smoke  their 
pipes  around,  interspersed  with  pilgrims  from  remote  lands,  and  merchants 
who  sell  relics,  amulets,  and  other  merchandise  of  a  less  dignified  order. 

Externally  the  mosque  is  in  the  form  of  a  square,  of  about  two  hundred 


234  A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

and  fifty  feet  on  a  side.  Internally  it  is  divided  by  pillars  into  the  shape 
of  a  Greek  cross.  Its  dome  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  from  the  pave- 
ment, and  in  diameter  is  one  hundred  and  fifteen.  "  The  mosque  of  Sulei- 
man and  Achmet,  in  their  external  appearance  and  internal  capacity  and 
airiness  are  superior  ;  but  the  richness  and  variety  of  material,  and  the  reli- 
gious associations  and  sacred  gloom  which  pervade  the  interior  of  St.  Sophia, 
captivate  even  the  Moslem,  and  fill  the  mind  of  the  Christian  with  the  pro- 
foundest  awe.  There  is  not  anywhere  else  on  earth  such  a  combination  of 
venerable  and  interesting  materials.  There  stand  eight  porphyry  pillars, 
whbh  once  adorned  the  Temple  of  the  Sun;  eight  verde-antique  columns,  that 
once  ornamented  the  celebrated  Temple  of  Diana  of  the  Ephesians  ;  there 
too  are  pillars  from  the  Acropolis  at  Athens  ;  from  the  Temples  of  Osiris  and 
Isis  in  Egypt,  of  Apollo  at  Delos,  and  of  Cybele  at  Cyzicus.  It  seems  as  if 
all  that  was  magnificent  and  venerable  in  the  old  religions  was  here  assem- 
bled to  do  homage  to  the  new" 

Few  great  churches  have  been  raised  with  such  rapidity  as  St.  Sophia's. 
Under  the  care  of  Anthemius,  the  architect,  and  his  ten  thousand  laborers, 
encouraged  by  the  familiarity  of  the  Emperor,  who  is  said  to  have  inspected 
at  stated  intervals  their  advancing  work,  clothed  in  a  linen  tunic,  the  cathe- 
dral was  completed  in  less  than  six  years  from  its  foundation. 

Near  to  St.  Sophia's,  stands  one  of  the  loftiest  and  richest  of  the  mosqaes, 
that  which  bears  the  name  of  the  Sultan  Achmet.  Lifting;  on  high  *ts 
haughty  dome,  the  curve  of  which  is  far  more  elevated  than  that  of  its  neigh 
bor,  it  differs  from  the  church  of  Justinian  as  an  elm  differs  trom  a  spreading 
oak.  Beneath  the  central  cupola  are  clustered  several  smaller  domes  and 
half-domes.  The  Achmetie  boasts  no  fewer  than  six  minarets,  each 
enwreathed  with  three  galleries,  from  one  of  which  the  clear  tones  of  the 
Muezzin  pealing  from  the  shining  vault,  like  a  divine  summons,  calls  the 
people  to  prayer.  Every  royal  mosque  is  marked  by  the  adjunct  of  twc 
minarets,  and  several  of  them  possess  four,  but  the  Achmetie  alone  has  six. 
It  is  to  be  hoped  that  whenever  the  Russians  are  in  possession  of  Constanti- 
nople, they  will  not  pull  down  those  light  and  beautiful  structures. 

Bells  are  abhorred  by  Moslems,  and  therefore  the  minarets  of  the  mosque 
supplies  the  place  of  the  belfry  of  the  Christian  edifice.  "The  voices  of  a 
thousand  muezzins  simultaneously  proclaiming  throughout  the  city,  There  is 
but  one  God,  and  Mahomet  is  his  Prophet,  come  to  prayers  !  come  to  salvation! 
fall  as  agreeably  on  the  ear  of  the  Turk  as  the  chime  of  the  church  bells  on 
the  ear  of  the  Christian." 

The  porches  through  which  you  enter  the  mosques  are  among  the  most 
picturesque  parts  of  the  buildings.  They  are  surmounted  by  exquisite  little 
vaults  or  roofs,  as  richly  fretted  with  carved  work  as  the  roof  of  a  bishop's 
throne  in  a  cathedral.  Above  them  extend,  in  golden  traceries,  mystic 
inscriptions  in  the  Arabic  character,  consisting  chiefly  of  sentences  from  the 
Koran,  which,  flashing  from  a  groundwork  of  dark  green  or  purple,  gleam 
like  mimic  constellations  reflected  in  the  sea.  Everywhere  in  Constantinople, 
over  gate  and  tomb,  and  bath,  and  palace  front,  you  are  confronted  by  those 
blazoned  texts  from  the  Koran,  which  are  scattered  as  widely  as  devout  pic- 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  235 

tures  are  in  Roman  Catholic  countries,  and  look  as  if  the  endeavor  had  been 
to  make  the  city  one  great  book.  Nowhere  has  bibliolatry,  or  devotion  to  a 
book,  being  carried  further  than  among  the  Moslems. 

The  religion  of  Mahomet,  which  numbers  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of 
followers,  is  considered  to  be  preserved  throughout  this  empire  in  a  state  of 
peculiar  purity.  The  chief  observances  of  this  religion  consist  in  the  namaz, 
or  prayer,  repeated  five  times  each  day,  preceded  by  ablution,  and  accom- 
panied by  prostrations  ;  and  in  the  observance  of  the  fast  of  Ramadan,  when 
during  a  whole  month,  neither  solid  food  nor  liquid  is  tasted  before  sunset. 
The  mosques  have  certain  officers  attached  to  them,  as  the  sheiks  and  kialibs, 
who  preach  and  read,  the  imam,  who  has  the  care  of  the  mosque,  and  the 
muezzin,  who,  five  time  each  day,  from  the  top  of  the  highest  minaret,  calls 
the  neighborhood  to  prayers,  when  each  Mussulman  drops  business  for  a  few 
moments,  and,  whether  in  the  house  or  in  the  street,  drops  on  his  knees  in 
prayer.  These  functionaries  are  not  distinguished  from  other  citizens  by 
either  dress  or  deportment,  and  there  is  not  any  office  of  religion  which  can- 
not be  regularly  performed  by  any  private  citizen. 

*'  The  grand  principles  of  the  moslem  faith  are  expressed  in  two  articles, 
the  first  of  which  is  this  : 

'  There  is  no  deity  but  God.* 

God,  who  created  all  things  in  heaven  and  in  earth,  who  preserveth  all 
things,  and  decreeth  all  things,  who  is  without  beginning  and  without  end, 
omnipotent,  omniscient,  and  omnipresent,  is  one.  His  unity  is  thus  declared 
in  a  short  chapter  of  the  Ckoor- an  [Koran  :]  'Say,  He  is  one  God;  God 
the  Eternal :  He  neither  begets,  nor  is  He  begotten  ;  and  there  is  none 
equal  unto  him.'  He  hath  no  partner,  nor  any  offspring  in  the  creed  of  the 
Mooslim.  Though  Jesus  Christ  (whose  name  should  not  be  mentioned  with- 
out adding,  '  on  whom  be  peace')  is  believed  to  have  been  born  of  a  pure 
virgin,  by  the  miraculous  operation  of  God,  without  any  natural  father,  to  be 
the  Messiah,  and  the  Word  of  God,  which  He  imparted  unto  Mary,  and  a 
Spirit  proceeding  from  Him,'  yet  he  is  not  called  the  Son  of  God,  and  no 
higher  titles  are  given  to  him  than  those  of  a  Prophet  and  Apostle  :  he  is 
even  conidered  as  of  inferior  dignity  to  Mahomet,  inasmuch  as  the  Gospel  is 
held  to  be  superseded  by  the  Ckoor- an.  The  Mooslim  believes  that  Seyyidna 
'Eesa  (or  'our  Lord  Jesus,')  after  he  had  fulfilled  the  object  of  his  mission, 
was  taken  up  unto  God  from  the  Jews,  who  sought  to  slay  him  ;  and  that 
another  person  on  whom  God  had  stamped  the  likeness  of  Christ,  was  cruci- 
fied in  his  stead.  He  also  believes  that  Christ  is  to  come  again  upon  the 
earth  to  establish  the  Mohammedan  religion,  and  perfect  peace  and  security, 
after  having  killed  Antichrist,  and  to  be  a  sign  of  the  approach  of  the 
last  day.        * 

The  other  grand  article  of  the  faith,  which  cannot  be  believed  without  the 
former,  is  this  : 

'  Mahomet  is  God's  Apostle.* 

Mahomet  is  believed  by  his  followers  to  have  been  the  last  and  greatest 
of  Prophets  and  Apostles.  Six  of  these — namely,  Adam,  Noah,  Abraham, 
Moses,  Jesus,  and  Mahomet — are  believed  each  to  have  received  a  revealed 


236  A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

law,  or  system  of  religion  and  morality.  That,  however,  which  was  revealed 
to  Adam,  was  abrogated  by  the  next ;  and  each  succeeding  law,  or  code 
of  laws,  abrogated  the  preceding  :  therefore  those  who  professed  the  Jewish 
religion  from  the  time  of  Moses  to  that  of  Jesus  were  true  believers  ;  and 
those  who  professed  the  Christian  religion  (uncorrupted,  as  the  Moslems  say, 
by  the  tenet  that  Christ  was  the  Son  of  God)  until  the  time  of  Mahomet,  are 
held,  in  like  manner,  to  have  been  true  believers  ;  but  the  copies  of  the  Pen- 
tateuch, the  Psalms  of  David  (which  the  Moslems  also  hold  to  be  of  Divine 
origin,)  and  the  Gospels  now  existing,  the  Mohammedans  believe  to  have  been 
so  much  altered  as  to  contain  very  little  of  the  true  word  of  God.  The 
Ckooran  they  believe  to  have  suffered  no  alteration  whatever. 

It  is  farther  necessary  that  the  Moslem  should  believe  in  the  existence  of 
angels  and  of  the  devil,  and  likewise  genii  (an  intermediate  race  of  beings 
between  angels  and  men ;)  also  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  the  general 
resurrection  and  judgment,  in  future  rewards  and  punishments  in  paradise 
and  hell,  in  the  balance  in  which  good  and  evil  works  shall  be  weighed,  and 
in  the  bridge  Es-Sirat  (which  extends  over  the  midst  of  hell,  finer  than  a 
hair,  and  sharper  than  the  edge  of  a  sword,)  over  which  all  must  pass,  and 
from  which  the  wicked  shall  fall  into  hell.  He  believes  also  that  they  who 
have  acknowledged  the  faith  of  Mahomet,  and  yet  acted  wickedly,  will  not 
remain  in  hell  forever,  but  that  all  of  other  religions  must :  that  there  are, 
however,  degrees  of  punishment  as  well  as  of  rewards,  the  former  consisting 
in  severe  torture  by  excessive  heat  and  cold,  and  the  latter  in  the  indulgence 
of  the  appetites  by  most  delicious  meats  and  drinks,  and  above  all  by  the 
company  of  the  girls  of  paradise,  whose  eyes  will  be  very  large  and  entirely 
black,  and  whose  stature  will  be  proportioned  to  that  of  the  men,  which  will 
be  the  height  of  a  tall  palm-tree,  or  about  sixty  feet.  Such  the  Moslems 
generally  believe,  was  the  height  of  our  first  parents.  It  is  said  that  the 
souls  of  martyrs  reside,  until  the  judgment,  in  the  crops  of  green  birds,  which 
eat  of  the  fruits  of  paradise.  Women  are  not  to  be  excluded  from  paradise 
according  to  the  Mohammedan  faith,  though  it  has  been  asserted  by  many 
Christians  that  the  Moslems  believe  women  to  have  no  souls.  In  several 
places  in  the  Ckooran,  Paradise  is  promised  to  all  true  believers,  whether 
males  or  females.  It  is  the  doctrine  of  the  Ckooran  that  no  person  will  be 
admitted  into  paradise  by  his  own  merits,  but  that  admission  will  be  granted 
to  believers  merely  by  the  mercy  of  God  ;  yet  that  the  felicity  of  each  person 
will  be  proportioned  to  his  merits.  The  very  meanest  in  paradise  is  promised 
'eighty  thousand  servants,  (beautiful  youths,  called  weleeds,  or  wilddn,) 
'  seventy-two  wives  of  the  girls  of  paradise,  (hhooree-yehs,  or  hhoor  el-'oyoon,) 
1  beside  the  wives  he  had  in  this  world,'  if  he  desire  to  have  the  latter  (and 
the  good  will  doubtless  desire  the  good,)  and  a  tent  erected  for  him  of  pearls, 
jacinths,  and  emeralds,  of  a  very  large  extent,'  and  will  be  waited  on  by  three 
hundred  attendants  while  he  eats,  and  served  in  dishes  of  gold,  whereof  three 
hundred  shall  be  set  before  him  at  once,  each  containing  a  different  kind  of 
food,  the  last  morsel  of  which  will  be  as  grateful  as  the  first :  wine,  also, 
though  forbidden  in  this  life,  will  yet  be  freely  allowed  to  be  drank  in  the 
next,  and  wilhout  danger,  since  the  wine  of  paradise  will  not  inebriate.'    We 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  237 

are  faither  told  that  all  the  superfluities  from  the  bodies  of  the  inhabitants 
of  paradise  will  be  carried  off  by  perspiration,  which  will  diffuse  an  odor  like 
that  of  musk  ;  and  that  they  will  be  clothed  in  the  richest  silks,  chiefly  of 
green.  They  are  also  promised  perpetual  youth,  and  children  as  many  as 
they  may  desire.  These  pleasures,  together  with  the  songs  of  the  angel 
IsrafeSl,  and  many  other  gratifications  of  the  senses,  will  charm  even  the 
meanest  inhabitant  of  paradise.  But  all  these  enjoyments  will  be  lightly 
esteemed  by  those  more  blessed  persons  who  are  to  be  admitted  to  the 
highest  of  all  honors — that  spiritual  pleasure  of  beholding,  morning  and  eve- 
ning, the  face  of  God.  The  Moslem  must  also  believe  in  the  examination  of 
the  dead  in  the  sepulcher,  by  two  angels,  called  Moonkir  and  Nekeer,  of  ter 
rible  aspect,  who  will  cause  the  body  (to  which  the  soul  shall  be  for  the  time, 
reunited)  to  sit  upright  in  the  grave,  and  will  question  the  deceased  respect- 
ing his  faith.  The  wicked  they  will  severely  torture,  but  the  good  they  will 
not  hurt.  Lastly,  he  should  believe  in  God's  absolute  decree  of  every 
event,  both  good  and  evil.  This  doctrine  has  given  rise  to  as  much 
controversy  among  the  Moslems  as  among  Christians ;  but  the  former 
generally  believe  in  predestination  as  in  some  respects,  conditional.  In 
religious  practice,  the  most  important  duties  are  prayer,  alms-giving,  fasting, 
and  pilgrimage.' * 

Of  all  the  excursions  in  the  neighborhood  of  Constantinople,  that  up  the 
Bosphorus  to  the  Black  Sea  is  the  most  interesting.  "  In  company  with  our 
embassador  and  Dr.  R.,  an  American  missionary,  I  embarked,"  says  De 
Vere,  "  in  a  caique,  one  of  those  slender  shell-like  boats,  which  bounded  for- 
ward under  the  oars  of  our  sinewy  boatmen  like  a  young  antelope.  The 
Bosphorus  in  its  numerous  windings  is  so  frequently  land-locked,  that  it  often 
spreads  into  what  appears  to  be  a  series  of  lakes,  environed  by  landscapes 
of  exquisite  beauty.  In  one  of  these  lakes  the  expanse  is  wider  and  sunnier 
than  in  its  neighbor;  in  another,  the  rocks  are  steeper  and  the  flowering  shrubs 
more  distinctly  revealed.  The  most  picturesque  points  are  sure  to  be  crowned 
by  some  rich  man's  palace;  the  projecting  roof  casts  a  shadow  on  the  stream, 
and  slightly  obscures  the  gilded  lattices  behind  which — cages  of  imprisoned 
birds — the  inmates  of  his  harem,  are  hidden.  As  we  passed  them,  the  breeze 
wafted  us  a  sweeter  fragrance  from  their  gardens,  and  sometimes  the  sound 
of  minstrelsy  or  the  laugh  of  the  captive  beauties,  gathered  probably  around 
some  story-teller.  Chained  to  the  wall  of  the  house,  and  tossing  lightly  on 
the  ripple,  or  moored  in  a  still  canal  passing  under  an  archway  into  the  palace, 
was  commonly  a  caique,  glowing  with  crimson  and  glittering  with  gold.  I 
should  have  been  glad  to  have  seen  the  fair  household  embarking,  but  was 
not  so  fortunate. 

Not  less  beautiful  are  those  reaches  of  the  Bosphorus,  the  scenery  of 
which  is  of  a  less  festal  character,  where  the  hills  are  higher,  the  glens 
narrower,  and  the  cypresses  more  thickly  clustered.  In  several  places  the 
current  was  so  strong  that  our  boatmen  were  unable  to  pull  against  it.  On 
these  occasions  we  landed,  and  a  number  of  men  coming  to  our  assistance,  the 
caique  was  dragged,  with  the  aid  of  ropes,  past  the  projecting  rock.  Every 
interruption  afforded  fresh  opportunities  of  enjoying  the  scenes  around  us 


238  A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS. 

Ir  many  places  we  passed  close  to  a  range  of  marble  seats  at  the  water's 
edge,  on  which,  or  near  which,  repose  gay  companies  of  women,  Turk, 
or  Armenian,  who  had  come  forth  to  enjoy  the  sunset.  Whether  by  mis- 
chance, or  but  half  by  chance,  on  these  occasions  much  more  of  their  vailed 
face  is  frequently  revealed  to  the  gaze  or  glance  of  the  passer  by,  than  he 
makes  acquaintance  with  at  Constantinople.  The  Turkish  countenance,  with 
its  beautiful  oval  shape,  its  colorless  purity  and  wax-like  stillness,  and  above 
all  its  dark,  tender,  and  dreamy  eyes,  has  a  charm  about  it  which  the  more 
brilliant  Greek  lacks. 

The  Armenian  women  are,  as  a  race,  the  most  lovely  I  have  seen.  Their 
eyes  combine  something  of  the  Turkish  languor  with  the  brilliant  irradiation 
of  the  Greek.  Their  hair  falls  in  waves  of  the  glossiest  black  down  their 
fair  brows,  and  their  complexion  has  the  freshness  of  the  rosebud's  inmost 
leaf.  Their  forms  are  tall,  and  characterized  at  once  by  stateliness  and  a 
suave  and  gentle  grace.  Their  movements  are  modest,  but  marked  also  by  a 
soft  decision.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  picturesque  beauty  of  those  Arme- 
nian women,  which  is  much  increased  by  their  oriental  costume,  their  crim- 
son slippers,  their  cloaks  of  brilliant  green  or  blue,  and  the  long  white  vails 
which  stream  over  their  shoulders.  In  spite  of  the  ordinary  error,  which 
associates  especially  with  Mahometanism,  that  subjection  of  the  female  sex, 
which  prevailed  in  the  East  ever  since  the  patriarchal  times,  the  Christian 
Armenians  not  only  live  in  as  complete  a  seclusion  as  their  Turkish  sisters, 
but  are  also  in  quite  as  strict  a  thraldom.  Notwithstanding,  I  should  think 
it  likely  that  they  are  happy  in  their  domestic  relations. 

On  our  return,  in  place  of  pursuing  the  windings  of  the  Bosphorus,  we 
followed  an  inland  path,  passing  along  many  a  hollow  glen,  and  stopping 
often  to  admire  some  new  combination  of  mountains,  marked  by  those  pecu- 
liar attributes  of  vastiness,  stillness,  luxuriance,  and  smoothness  which  char- 
acterize the  scenery  of  Asia.  The  most  beautiful  of  these  glens  is  one  called 
the  "  Asian  Valley  of  Sweet  Waters."  This  is  the  favorite  place  of  resort 
for  the  rich,  and  is  especially  thronged  on  Friday,  the  Mahometan  Sabbath. 
Hither  flock  all  the  beauties  of  Constantinople  for  their  holiday  revel.  Not 
only  the  wives  of  the  beys,  emirs,  and  pachas,  but  the  sultanas  themselves. 
Over  the  green  grass  their  carriages,  glittering  with  gold,  and  shaded  by 
velvet  and  silken  awnings,  are  slowly  and  noiselessly  drawn  by  white  oxen, 
and  occasionally  by  horses  ;  while  the  dark,  voluptuous  eye  gleams  upon  the 
passer-by  between  the  breeze-stirred  vail  and  the  pillow  of  crimson  satin  on 
which  the  pallid  cheek  reposes.  Through  the  plain  wanders  a  pellucid 
stream,  which  falls  into  the  Bosphorus,  and  on  the  banks  of  which  tower  up 
stately  groves  of  plane-trees,  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  circumference,  and 
disposed  often  with  a  regularity  almost  architectural. 

"  A  pillow'd  shade  with  echoing  walks  "between." 

Under  these  tented  groves  the  Persian  carpets  are  spread,  as  well  as  many  a 
cashmere  shawl,  and  mantle  of  glowing  orange  or  purple ;  and  among  them 
the  revelers  dispose  themselves  in  festal  groups,  some  smoking  their  pipes, 
some  drinking  sherbet,  some  restraining  a  truent  curl  with  the    aid  of  » 


A  SOJOURN  AMONG  THE  TURKS.  239 

pearl-compassed  hand  mirror,  some  watching  the  feats  of  a  conjurer,  some 
listening  to  a  minstrel,  Jewish,  Greek,  or  Wallachian,  and  some  in  deep  atten- 
tion to  a  story-teller  from  Persia  or  Arabia,  whose  endless  narrative  is  inter- 
rupted now  and  then  by  a  fearless  laugh  ringing  from  the  heart.  From 
group  to  group  pass,  as  the  day  wears  on,  the  slave,  carrying  water  from  the 
fountain  in  silver  pitchers,  the  confectioner,  laden  with  baskets  of  fruit  and 
sherbet." 

Among  the  sights  at  Constantinople  which  the  traveler  is  most  earnestly 
recommended  to  see,  are  the  "  dancing  dervises,"  the  following  description 
of  which,  is  given  by  De  Vere  : 

"  This  singular  ceremonial  takes  place  in  a  college  of  dervises  within  the 
region  of  Galata,  and  is  open  to  the  inspection  of  any  one  who  does  not  ob- 
ject to  discard  his  shoes,  and  substitute  for  them  a  pair  of  slippers,  with 
which  he  is  speedily  provided.  The  chapel  is  a  small  octagon  building,  part 
of  which  is  railed  off  for  the  religious  exercises  of  the  brethren,  while 
another  portion  of  it  is  devoted  to  the  use  of  strangers.  The  inclosed  space 
was  empty  when  I  arrived.  In  a  few  minutes  the  dervises  entered,  wrapped 
in  long  dark  cloaks  with  flowing  sleeves,  and  bearing  on  their  heads  that 
high  and  tapering  gray  hat  which  marks  their  community.  Bending  gradu- 
ally as  they  advanced,  and  kneeling  till  their  foreheads  touched  the  ground, 
they  remained  for  some  time  absorbed  in  prayer.  Again  they  bowed  pro- 
foundly to  their  superior,  an  old  man  who  stood  in  the  center  of  the  circle, 
clothed  in  an  ample  pelisse  of  green  silk  and  fur,  and  then  took  their  stations 
around  him,  with  their  hands  folded  on  their  breasts,  their  eyes  closed,  and 
their  faces,  dim  and  abstracted,  inclined  gently  forward. 

From  a  gallery  in  the  upper  part  of  the  building  musical  sounds  were 
heard  erelong,  to  which  the  dervises  added  their  voices.  To  me  nothing 
could  be  much  more  harsh  or  grating  than  such  music,  but  over  those  who 
joined  in  it  the  effects  which  it  exercised  seemed  magical.  Gradually  a  deep 
enthusiasm  appeared  to  fall  on  them,  and  that  peculiar  species  of  rotatory 
movement  improperly  termed  dancing,  commenced.  Slowly,  at  first,  they 
spun  round,  each  revolving  on  his  axis,  and  all  preserving  exactly  the  same 
relative  position  as  they  circled  round  and  round  the  inclosure.  During 
these  extraordinary  evolutions  they  extended  their  arms  at  each  side,  while 
their  long  and  loose  robes,  gray,  green,  and  brown,  spreading  out  on  all  sides 
as  their  gyrations  became  more  rapid,  imparted  to  their  figures  a  pyramidal- 
like  outline  of  which  their  sharp  hats  formed  the  top.  This  mystical  dance 
continued  for  the  space  of  about  five  minutes,  when,  ceasing  it  in  a  moment, 
and  simultaneously,  they  stood  still  once  more,  each  with  his  hands  on  his 
breast,  and  his  face  toward  his  superior.  After  an  interval  of  prayer,  the 
same  ceremonial  was  gone  through  a  second  and  a  third  time.  There  is 
something  remarkable  in  the  perfect  regularity  of  the  movement,  and  yet 
more  so  in  the  contrast  between  the  extreme  velocity  which  it  reaches,  and 
the  stillness  of  those  pale,  absorbed  countenances,  slightly  inclined  toward 
the  right  shoulder,  and  calm  as  in  a  dream. 


240  A  SOJOURN  AMOffG  THE  TURKS. 

Such  spectacles,  however,  are  rendered  utterly  unsatisfactory  by  that  im- 
possibility of  appreciating  their  real  import  under  which  a  stranger  labors. 
It  is  difficult  for  us  to  realize  in  this  strange  exhibition  anything  more  than 
unmeaning,  and,  as  it  strikes  some,  a  ridiculous  ceremonial.  On  the  other 
hand,  we  know  that  the  eastern  nations  have,  from  the  earliest  periods,  asso- 
ciated dancing,  as  we  associate  music,  with  religious  aspiration,  and  that  it  is 
impossible  for  us  to  ascertain  what  that  dance  may  express  to  them  as  it 
would  be  for  a  spectator  without  an  ear  to  appreciate  our  cathedral  service. 


AN    AMERICAN 


IN 


FRANCE 


FRENCH    PEASANTS. 

Sketch  of  France — Landing  at  Havre — Fine  appearance  of  the  People— Business  Women — 
The  Seine — Eouen — Cathedral — Reverence  of  the  Catholics — French  river  Steamers — 
Paris — Social  Arrangements  of  the  Parisians — Sunday  in  Paris — Delightful  Walk — Fine 
Arts— Galleries  of  Art  open  to  the  Public— Their  Influence— Morals  of  the  French— Li- 
centiousness— Position  of  Woman — Marriages  of  convenience — Departure  from  Paris — 
Dijon — The  Saone — Agriculture  in  France — French  Peasant  Life — Temperance  of  the 
People — Departure  from  Lyons — Peasant  Women — A  Keflection. 

France  has  an  area  of  about  three  times  that  of  the  State  of  Virginia. 
Its  surface  exhibits  an  advantageous  mixture  of  high  and  low  lands.  Its 
climate,  though  varying  much  in  different  localities,  is  in  general  genial,  and 
well  adapted  to  extensive  and  profitable  agriculture.  On  the  north  it  ap- 
proaches that  of  England  ;  in  the  central  regions  the  winters  are  mild  and 
short,  and  all  seasons  are  exempt  from  extremes.  In  the  south  the  midsum- 
mer is  oppressively  hot,  and  irrigation  necessary  to  agriculture. 

16  241 


242  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

The  French  are  of  a  very  mixed  origin.  The  Grseco  Latin  race  corres- 
ponding to  the  French  who  inhabit  the  north  of  the  Loire,  and  the  country 
immediately  south  of  that  river ;  the  Romans  south  of  the  French,  and 
the  Italians  who  occupy  Corsica,  include  over  thirty  of  the  thirty-five  millions 
of  Frenchmen.  Its  remaining  people  are  a  Germanic  race  who  inhabit 
Alsace  and  part  of  Lorraine  ;  the  Flemings,  who  live  in  the  north  ;  the  Bre- 
tons in  Brittany,  and  the  Basques  in  the  low  Pyrenees.  These  various  races, 
to  the  present  day,  in  a  great  measure  preserve  the  national  peculiarities  of 
their  several  ancestors.  Of  all  these,  so  low  is  general  education  in  France, 
that  not  one-tenth  are  acquainted  with  even  the  letters  of  the  alphabet. 

The  history  of  France  dates  from  a  very  early  period.  It  was  the  scene 
of  many  exploits  in  the  time  of  the  Romans,  by  whom  it  was  invaded  and 
subdued.  The  French  are  the  descendants  of  these  and  the  ancient  Gauls 
and  their  language,  a  mixture  of  modified  Latin,  and  the  tongue  of  the 
original  inhabitants,  but  much  altered  in  spelling  and  pronunciation.  France 
for  many  centuries  was  governed  in  a  despotic  manner  by  a  line  of  sovereigns 
from  that  of  Clovis,  in  the  year  481,  to  that  of  the  Bourbons  in  the  person 
of  Louis  XVI,  in  1789.  One  of  these  monarchs,  Louis  XI V,  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  17th  century  exhausted  the  resources  of  the  nation  in  foreign 
wars,  and  personal  extravagance,  and  beside  greatly  corrupted  the  manners 
of  the  people.  This  laid  the  foundation  for  a  course  of  events  which 
terminated  in  the  national  ruin,  and  the  fearful  outbreak  of  the  revolu- 
tion in  1789,  which  deluged  the  country  in  blood,  and  ended  with  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  Republic  ;  but  this  was  speedily  succeeded  by  the  elevation  of 
Napoleon  Bonaparte,  first  as  consul  and  next  Emperor.  The  battle  of 
Waterloo  in  1815,  closed  his  career,  and  the  Bourbons  were  again  restored 
to  the  throne.  Charles  the  Xth,  the  last  of  the  Bourbons,  was  expelled  by 
the  revolution  of  1830,  and  Louis  Philippe,  a  descendant  of  the  brother  of 
Louis  XIV,  was  elevated  to  the  throne.  France  now  became  and  so  remained 
a  constitutional  monarchy  until  the  22d  February  1848,  when  royalty  was 
abolished  and  a  republic  again  established,  which  after  four  years'  duration 
merged  into  a  monarchy,  under  Louis  Napoleon. 


It  was  on  a  fine  morning  in  spring,  that  J.  P.  Durbin,  D.  J).,*  the  traveler 
whose  steps  we  now  follow,  first  beheld  a  city  of  France.  He  was  at  the 
time  on  board  the  noble  ship  the  Ville  de  Lyon,  in  which,  twenty-two  days 
before,  he  had  left  New  York.  The  fog  having  rolled  away  from  the 
surface  of  the  beautiful  bay  before  them,  disclosed,  at  the  distance  of  five 
miles,  Havre,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Seine,  the  port  of  Paris,  and  the  Liverpool 
of  France. 

On  going  out  to  see  the  town,  soon  after  his  landing,  he  was  struck  with 
the  superiority  of  the  people  in  physical  appearance,  as  compared  with  his 
own  countrymen.    Fine  health  and  much  enjoyment  of  life  was  shown  in  their 


*  Abridged  principally  from  "  Durbin's  Observations  in  Europe."  This  work  com- 
prises his  travels  in  France,  Switzerland,  down  the  Rhine,  in  Holland,  Belgium  and  Eng- 
land, Scotland  and  Ireland. 


AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE.  243 

fresh  complexions,  elastic  steps,  and  full  developed  figures.  This  in  a  great 
measure  arises  from  the  French  being  accustomed  to  spend  so  much  of  their 
time  in  the  open  air.  The  greater  part  of  the  citizens  were  cheerfully  pro- 
menading the  streets,  and  the  little  folks,  of  both  sexes,  full  of  glee,  were 
running,  romping,  rolling  the  hoop  and  jumping  the  rope.  Most  of  the  fe- 
males were  without  bonnets.  He  was  also  impressed  by  the  smallness  of  the 
shops,  the  exceeding  variety  and  richness  of  the  merchandise,  and,  by  the 
fact,  that,  with  a  solitary  exception,  they  were  kept  by  females.  In  France, 
nearly  all  the  petty  trading  is  carried  on  by  the  women,  and  many  occupa- 
tions of  a  light,  feminine  character,  in  which,  with  us,  males  officiate,  there 
properly  fall  within  their  province. 

In  the  evening,  a  mild  and  beautiful  night,  which  terminated  the  first  day 
of  our  traveler's  experience  in  the  land  of  the  French,  he  bent  his  footsteps 
toward  the  quay.  The  whole  population  seemed  to  be  in  the  streets.  Every- 
where policemen,  in  their  peculiar  garb,  mingled  among  the  people,  to  pre- 
serve, if  necessary,  by  force,  that  quiet  our  own  citizens  secure  simply  by 
their  superior  civilization  and  love  of  order. 

Early  the  third  morning  after  his  landing,  Dr.  Durbin  embarked  on  board 
of  a  steamer,  which,  gliding  out  of  the  harbor,  was  soon  on  its  way  up  the 
Seine  to  Rouen,  the  ancient  capital  of  Normandy. 

The  Seine  is  a  beautiful  river,  full  of  historical  interest  :  its  banks  were  the 
battle-grounds  of  France  and  England,  and  with  every  elevation  are  con- 
nected legends  of  that,  or  of  an  earlier  period,  when  it  was  scourged  by  the 
piratical  swarms  of  Scandinavia,  or  of  an  antiquity  yet  more  remote,  when 
France  was  under  the  sway  of  the  Roman  eagle.  Clear  down  to  the  water's 
edge  the  grass  was  of  a  rich  velvet  green.  Frequently,  as  they  advanced, 
beautiful  valleys  opened  to  view  on  either  side,  disclosing  here  and  there  lovely 
villages,  with  the  environing  hills,  cultivated  to  the  highest  degree,  their  sum- 
mits, in  places,  crowned  with  forest  trees,  in  the  cool  refreshing  verdure  ot 
spring. 

In  five  hours,  Dr.  Durbin  was  comfortably  located  in  the  hotel  of  Rouen. 
In  the  French  hotels,  in  the  large  provincial  towns,  the  traveler  pays  only 
for  his  room  and  the  services  of  the  fille  de  chambre.  His  meals  he  can  take 
as  he  chooses,  at  any  time,  and  either  as  he  may  desire,  at  the  general  table, 
where  he  pays  a  stipulated  sum,  or  at  an  eating-house,  where  he  pays  only 
for  what  he  may  order. 

Rouen  comprises  two  parts,  the  old  and  the  new  town.  They  are  separated 
by  the  Boulevards,  which  is  a  noble  wide  street,  adorned  with  trees,  and 
almost  surrounding  the  city.  The  word  "  boulevards"  signifies  ancient  walls. 
Many  of  the  old  towns  of  continental  Europe  are  adorned  by  these  enchant- 
ing avenues  ;  so  that  the  old  walls,  once  their  defense,  now  form  shaded 
streets,  and  the  pleasure  grounds  of  their  inhabitants.  The  old  part  of 
Rouen  is  miserably  built,  with  narrow  streets,  winding  about  like  cow -paths; 
moreover,  they  are  destitute  of  side-walks,  and  paved  with  square  stones, 
which,  sloping  to  the  center,  there  form  a  gutter.  This,  however,  is  not 
peculiar  to  this  city,  but  general  in  all  cities  on  the  continent ;  paved  walks  for 
foot  passengers,  on  the  sides  of  the  streets,  next  to  the  houses,  being  almost 


244  ^N  AMERICAN"  IN  FRANCE. 

entirely  unknown.  To  an  American  eye  the  houses  of  Rouen  look  queer 
enough,  with  their  stout  oaken  frames,  cemented  or  bricked  between  ;  their 
narrow  fronts,  and  lofty  peaked  roofs,  tiled  or  slated.  None  are  in  blocks,  and 
rarely  two  alike.  In  the  new  town  are  many  fine  modern  houses,  of  soft 
cream-colored  stone,  which  often  are  surrounded  by  trees  and  gardens. 

Dr.  Durbin  was  unexpectedly  gratified  with  the  people,  their  manners  and 
characteristics.  They  appeared  to  be  sober  and  discreet,  and  without  that  fri- 
volity we  Americans  have  been  taught  to  consider  a  peculiarity  of  the  French. 

Among  the  antiquities  of  the  town  the  Cathedral  is  celebrated.  This  mag- 
nificent structure  is  nearly  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  by  over  one  hun- 
dred in  width,  and  the  pyramid  upon  its  center  tower,  in  the  design,  reaches 
the  enormous  height  of  four  hundred  and  thirty- six  feet.  On  entering  this 
gigantic  edifice  he  was  struck  with  awe  by  its  solemn  grandeur  and  its  vast 
proportions.  Its  long  rows  of  lofty  pillars,  its  innumerable  sharp  Gothic 
arches,  the  silence  that  reigned  in  the  vast  spaces,  while  a  mass  of  light  of 
every  hue,  thrown  upon  all  objects  through  more  than  a  hundred  stained 
glass  windows,  impressed  him  with  novel  and  overpowering  sensations. 

The  stained  glass  windows  are  not  only  glass  colored  in  brilliant  hues,  but 
the  colors  are  so  arranged,  that  each  window  illustrates  a  particular  sub- 
ject. The  pictures  in  two  windows  depict  the  life  of  Joseph.  The  history  of 
John  the  Baptist  is  shown  in  a  third,  while  a  fourth  exhibits  the  passion  of 
Christ,  and  so  on.  The  paintings,  bass-reliefs  and  statues  of  the  cathedral 
form,  as  it  were,  an  open  volume  of  religious  history,  which,  appealing  to 
the  mind  through  the  eye,  familiarizes  to  the  most  ignorant  peasant  the  great 
events  narrated  in  the  Bible. 

"  No  wonder  that  the  people  of  Catholic  countries  are  so  much  attached 
to  their  religion,  when  we  consider  how  enticing  to  the  feelings  are  its  splen- 
did ceremonies,  and  its  magnificent  churches,  rendered  sacred  by  the  recol- 
lections of  a  thousand  years.  The  reverence  of  the  Catholic  for  his  church 
edifice  is  far  more  profound  than  that  of  the  Protestant.  The  rich  paintings, 
sculptures,  and  adornments,  not  only  impress  as  works  of  art,  but  as  parts  of 
the  temple  of  God,  are  imbued  with  an  ideal  sanctity. 

There  appears  to  be  more  depth  and  seriousness  in  the  worshipers  than 
with  Protestants.  Unaccustomed  as  we  are  to  the  solemn  pomp  and  pa- 
geantry of  the  Catholic  service  in  Europe,  it  is  impossible  to  conceive  of  its 
power  over  the  imagination,  and  the  feelings  of  those  educated  in  the  midst 
of  these  magical  associations.  Even  the  enlightened  Protestant  will  find 
much  that  is  elevating  and  majestic,  in  many  of  the  ceremonies,  aided  as  they 
are,  by  the  mighty  influence  of  the  higher  arts,  appealing  to  the  eye  by  the 
forms  of  beauty,  and  the  ear  with  tones  of  richest  harmony,  that  rivet  atten- 
tion, and  take  captive  the  imagination.'' 

Our  traveler  left  Rouen  for  Paris  in  the  steamer  Dorade,  the  same  which 
conveyed  the  remains  of  Napoleon  up  the  Seine,  when  brought  from  St.  He- 
lena to  Paris.  On  the  place  on  the  deck  where  had  stood  the  sarcophagus,  or 
coffin,  was  a  black  marble  slab,  with  an  inscription,  which  stated,  in  French, 
"  Here  reposed  the  mortal  remains  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon,  from  the  9th 
to  the  15th  December,  1840." 


AN  AMERICAS  IX  FKANCE.  245 

All  looked  upon  this  with  emotion  :  the  deck  passengers  especially  evinced 
deep  feeling,  and,  in  violation  of  the  rules,  rushed  forward  to  gaze  upon  the 
spot,  where,  for  six  days,  had  rested  the  mortal  remains  of  the  great  man 
whose  memory  is  so  idolized  by  the  nation. 

The  Dorade,  a  fair  specimen  of  the  French  river  steamers,  was  an  ill-look- 
ing boat,  compared  to  ours  of  the  same  class  :  it  was  long  and  narrow,  with 
the  deck  completely  exposed  to  the  weather,  and  its  only  cabin  a  small, 
cramped,  shabbily-furnished  room  below.  On  the  river  side,  numerous  large 
batteaux  were  seen,  drawn  by  horses  on  the  land,  and  at  each  village,  the 
washerwoman's  ark,  a  diminutive  raft  of  wood,  with  a  bench  by  the  water 
side,  upon  which  the  clothes  are  rubbed  after  a  soaking  in  the  stream.  Nu- 
merous interesting  villages  and  ruins,  came  in  view,  and  on  nearing  the  capi- 
tal, towns  and  cities  were  passed  in  rapid  succession. 

At  La  Pecq  they  changed  to  the  cars,  and  soon  after  dark  were  in  Paris. 
Taking  carriages  for  a  hotel,  the  party  of  our  traveler  entered  the  famous 
Boulevards,  a  broad  avenue  dazzling  with  lights,  and  crowded  by  thousands 
of  the  Parisians,  walking,  talking,  lounging  about  the  splendid  shop-win- 
dows, and  seated  before  the  cafes,  partaking  of  refreshments. 

They  secured  rooms,  and  as  is  usual  in  Paris,  obtained  their  meals  at  the 
eating-houses,  or  cafes.  These  establishments  are  peculiar  to  Paris.  On 
first  entering,  one  sees  a  well-dressed,  and  frequently,  beautiful  woman, 
seated  behind  a  high  and  marble-topped  desk,  upon  an  elegant  velvet-covered 
ottoman.  With  the  grace  and  business-like  air  of  the  Frenchwoman,  she 
oversees  all  the  operations  of  the  cafe,  receives  strangers,  orders  the  servants, 
and  manages  the  finances.  Selecting  a  table,  a  bill  of  fare  is  passed,  from 
which  one  can  choose  at  desire. 

These  establishments  are  all-important  to  the  every-day  life  of  the  citizens 
of  Paris.  They  are  divided  into  five  or  six  different  grades,  from  the  splendid 
cafes  and  restaurants,  the  resort  of  the  higher  classes,  to  the  miserable  eat- 
ing-houses, patronized  by  the  artisans  ;  there  is,  moreover,  a  regular  system, 
by  which  the  leavings  of  the  best,  are  handed  over  to  the  next,  and  so  on  in 
rotation,  until  the  last  remnants  are  served  up  at  the  cheapest  houses,  after 
passing  through  various  changes,  and  losing  all  traces  of  their  original 
character. 

Many  of  the  first  families,  in  professional  and  mercantile  life,  live  at  these 
establishments.  Their  daily  business  being  finished,  they  dine,  and  then  re- 
create until  bed-time,  by  promenading  and  frequenting  places  of  public 
amusement.  By  this  mode  of  life,  an  unusual  share  of  time  for  out-door 
amusement  is  given  to  the  Parisian ;  but  it  is  at  the  expense  of  the  pleasures 
of  home,  a  word,  by  the  way,  of  which  he  is  even  ignorant  of  the  meaning. 
Although  eminently  social,  he  is  not  domestic,  as  the  dwellings  show.  In 
Paris,  houses  for  single  families  are  very  rare. 

The  wealthier  clas'ses  frequently  reside  in  hotels,  and  live  as  described. 
The  common  dwellings  are  usually  large,  and  contain  several  families ;  a 
single  family  often  occupying  all  one  story,  in  each  of  which  is  a  complete 
suite  of  rooms.  In  front,  and  in  the  center  of  each  house,  is  a  wide  archway, 
closed  by  a  door  of  iron,  which  leads  into  a  square  court ;  from  this  area, 


246  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

stairs  conduct  to  several  suites  of  rooms,  each  complete  for  one  family,  which 
having  no  communication  with  the  others,  by  entries  or  passages,  secure  pri- 
vacy to  the  household.  The  same  plan,  with  slight  modifications,  is  followed 
in  the  smaller  dwellings  of  the  humbler  classes.  The  American  city  houses 
are  like  those  of  the  middle  class  of  Englishmen. 

On  walking  out,  on  his  first  Sunday  in  Paris,  Dr.  Durbin  could  not  realize 
the  day,  so  different  was  the  aspect  of  things  from  what  he  had  been  accus- 
tomed to.  The  troops  were  out,  marching  to  the  sound  of  martial  music,  ma- 
sons and  carpenters  were  at  work,  laborers  were  paving  the  streets,  and 
numerous  shops  were  open,  with  the  women  in  them,  waiting  upon  custom- 
ers, or  sewing.  In  the  evening,  he  strolled  down  to  the  spacious  Place  de  la 
Concorde,  and  mingled  "in  the  vast  crowds  which  rolled  in  vast  tides  through 
the  Place,  westward,  into  the  Champs  Elys6es,  (or  Elysian  Fields)  and  fol- 
lowed the  avenue  toward  the  Triumphal  Arch."  From  the  Place  the  scene 
was  splendid.  Scattered  about,  were  groups  of  statuary;  high  rose  the  mag- 
nificent obelisk  of  Luxor,  and  beautiful  fountains  were  playing.  To  the  east, 
lay  the  gardens  of  the  Tuilleries,  and,  in  the  opposite  direction,  stretched  the 
forests  of  the  Elysian  Fields.  All  around,  flashed  brilliant  gas-lights,  from 
palaces  and  theaters,  and  lanterns  shone  from  a  thousand  moving  carriages. 
Passing  into  the  beautiful  Elysian  Fields,  tents,  booths,  and  tables,  every- 
where abounded,  loaded  with  tempting  eatables  for  sale,  together  with  innu- 
merable kinds  of  fancy  articles,  the  business  being  mainly  conducted  by 
females.  Crowds  of  contented,  and  well-behaved  people,  were  all  around, 
walking,  talking,  and  laughing,  and  full  of  enjoyment. 

In  the  whole  of  this  long  walk,  he  saw  a  quiet  and  an  order  unknown  in 
any  of  our  towns,  on  public  days.  The  people  of  Paris,  so  far  as  regards 
intruding  upon  the  comforts  and  privileges  of  others,  behave,  in  their  Sunday 
amusements  as  considerately  as  ours,  on  their  way  to  church. 

The  people,  generally,  are  contented  with  theatrical  amusements,  music, 
fine  shows,  and  in  visiting  public  gardens.  The  government  judiciously  mi- 
nisters to  the  national  taste — hence,  all  the  galleries  of  paintings,  sculpture,  etc., 
and  the  palaces  with  their  splendid  grounds,  are  free  to  all  classes,  especially 
on  the  Sabbath. 

Our  traveler,  a  few  weeks  later,  had  an  opportunity  of  observing  how  the 
Sabbath  was  observed  in  a  Protestant  city.  This  was  at  Geneva,  "  the 
cradle  of  Calvinism."  On  the  Sabbath  morning  succeeding  his  arrival,  he 
was  awTakened  by  martial  music ;  on  going  to  his  window  he  saw  the  fire- 
companies  marching  out,  to  exercise  their  "  machines"  on  the  square,  the 
vicinity  of  which  was  thronged  by  market-women.  By  nine  o'clock,  market 
•was  over,  the  streets  quiet,  and  the  people  neatly  dressed,  on  their  way  to  church. 
In  the  afternoon,  after  church  service,  the  inhabitants  were  seeking  amuse- 
ment in  the  public  gardens,  and  usual  places  of  pleasure.  A  little  business 
in  the  morning,  then  worship,  and  finally,  amusement,  is  the  mannei  in  which 
the  Sabbath  is  spent  in  continental  Europe,  alike  with  Catholics  and 
Protestants. 

Among  the  earliest  objects  in  Paris  which  arrested  the  notice  of  Dr.  Dur- 
bin, was  the  column  of  Napoleon,  in  the  Place  de  Vendome,  which  is  crownec 


AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE.  247 

by  an  immense  bronze  statue  of  the  Emperor.  It  is  135  feet  high,  and 
formed  of  cannon,  taken  from  the  Russians  and  Austrians,  in  the  wars  of 
Napoleon,  and  is  covered  with  bass-reliefs  in  bronze.  It  bears  the  inscription 
"Monument  tUvee  a  la  Gloire  de  la  Grande  Armee  Par  Napoleon  le  Grand,'* 
i.  e.,  "Monument  erected  to  the  glory  of  the  Grand  Army,  by  Napoleon  the 
Great." 

From  the  top  is  had  a  most  magnificent  panoramic  view  of  Paris  and  its 
environs.  Among  a  confused  ocean  of  roofs  and  houses,  of  every  conceiv- 
able form,  is  seen  the  various  striking  edifices  and  towers,  palaces,  gardens, 
and  public  grounds  of  the  city,  and  beyond,  the  green  fields  of  the  country, 
the  chateau  and  forest  of  Vincennes,  and  the  tombs  and  monuments  of  Pere 
la  Chaise. 

Dr.  Durbin  visited  the  chambers  of  the  Deputies,  and  also  that  of  the 
Peers.  The  former  were  an  ordinary  looking  body,  and  those  who  addressed 
the  house,  as  was  their  custom,  read  their  speeches.  Contrary  to  all  our 
ideas  of  good  taste,  the  clerk  read  with  emphasis  and  gesticulation.  The 
Peers  were  generally  advanced  in  life,  and  some  of  them  of  venerable  aspect  ; 
they  were  attired  in  uniform  coats  of  blue  cloth,  with  standing  collars,  and 
gold  lace  on  the  cuffs. 

Our  traveler  was  astonished  at  the  immensity  and  completeness  of  the 
Jardin  des  Plantes.  On  entering  the  north-eastern  gate,  the  garden  opens  to 
view  a  vast  grove,  separated  into  quarters,  by  avenues.  Within  the  inclo- 
sure  is  a  menagerie — one  of  the  most  complete  and  extensive  in  the  world — a 
botanical  garden,  with  hot-houses  ;  a  museum,  and  library  of  natural  his- 
tory ;  museums  of  comparative  anatomy,  mineralogy,  and  geology,  and  la- 
boratories, and  scientific  apparatus  of  every  possible  description,  for  public 
lectures,  which  are  given  by  the  most  distinguished  scholars  to  the  public, 
free  of  charge,  government  maintaining  the  whole  expense  of  the  establish- 
ment. So  vast  is  it,  and  so  many  its  curiosities,  that  our  traveler  passed  two 
days  of  delightful  recreation  in  rambling  through  it. 

Among  the  most  imposing  buildings  in  Paris,  are  those  of  the  Hotel  des 
Znvalides,  situated  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Seine,  opposite  the  Elysian 
Fields.  The  grounds  inclosed,  contain  sixteen  acres.  Here,  maintained  in 
comfort,  at  the  public  expense,  dwell  the  worn-out  soldiers  of  the  Republic, 
and  Imperial  Armies  of  France.  They  number  about  three  thousand  men, 
among  whom  are  200  officers,  from  a  marshal  down,  and  all  paid  and  main- 
tained according  to  rank.  They  are  considered  the  same  as  if  in  the  regular 
service  ;  the  officers  are  in  their  uniforms,  sentinels  stand  post,  and  military 
'  Uy,  as  in  any  garrison,  is  gone  through  with.  It  is  a  melancholy  yet  amus- 
ing sight,  to  see  these  old  veterans,  some  armless,  and  others  on  crutches,  or 
wooden  legs,  hobbling  through  their  military  evolutions,  and  performing  the 
manual  ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  it  is  a  judicious  arrangement,  serving  to  dis- 
pel the  misery  of  idleness,  by  an  employment  congenial  to  their  tastes  and 
education.  In  the  grounds  sloping  down  to  the  Seine,  from  the  Hospital, 
=ach  soldier  has  to  cultivate  a  small  patch  about  twenty  feet  square,  for  a 
flower-garden  ;  these  form  a  pleasing  characteristic  of  the  place,  being  full 
jf  (lowers,  honeysuckle- bowers,  and  handsome  shrubs.     Dr.  Durbin  tried  to 


248  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

purchase  a  rose  of  several  of  these  antiquated  warriors,  but  unsuccessfully,  it 
being  against  the  regulations.  Finally,  on  going  up  to  one  alone,  by  himself, 
he  pointed  to  a  rosebud,  at  the  same  time  holding  a  franc  in  his  hand.  Hur- 
riedly clipping  it,  the  old  man  passed  him  the  bud,  and  beckoned  to  him  to 
drop  the  franc  down  upon  the  bed,  which  he  did,  for  the  veteran  was  doubt- 
less in  more  trepidation  from  fear  of  detection,  than  he  had  been  in  days  of 
yore,  from  fear  of  the  enemy,  while  marching  up  to  storm  a  hostile  battery. 

The  leisure  of  many,  was  passed  in  making  models  of  towns  and  fortresses, 
which  had  fallen  before  the  prowess  of  their  arms,  and  the  object  of  their 
adoration,  Napoleon,  was  at  every  turn  shown  by  little  statues,  crowned  with 
newly-plucked  flowers.  The  halls  of  the  building  are  called  Austerlitz,  Wa- 
gram,  etc.,  in  memory  of  the  great  battles  of  Bonaparte,  and  those  who  had 
been  fellow-soldiers,  live  in  the  same  apartment,  where  they  can  meet  and 
"  fight  their  battles  over  again." 

In  the  chapel  of  St.  Jerome,  is  the  tomb  of  Napoleon,  the  most  striking 
feature  of  the  establishment.  "  We  approached,"  says  our  traveler,  "  the 
iron  grating  that  cuts  off  access  to  the  sarcophagus,  and  stood  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  ashes  of  the  hero.  I  felt  a  sensation  of  awe,  such  as  I  had  never  be- 
fore experienced  in  presence  of  the  living,  or  among  the  remains  of  the  dead. 
Upon  the  marble,  lay  his  crown,  his  sword,  and  hat  which  had  pressed  his 
manty  brows  at  Eylau.  .  .  We  held  our  voices  in  the  great  man's  resting- 
place.  Many  came  while  we  were  there,  but  none,  who  did  not  gaze  with 
reverence  on  the  tomb  of  him  who  had  broken  up  the  despotic  institutions  of 
a  thousand  years,  and  changed  the  face  of  Europe  and  the  world." 

Previous  to  the  Revolution,  France  was  well  supplied  with  churches  ;  but, 
during  that  dreadful  period,  the  institutions  of  religion  were  trampled  upon, 
its  ministers  persecuted,  and  most  of  the  churches  rifled  and  destroyed ;  from 
these  disasters  the  country  has  never  fully  recovered.  Paris,  in  1870,  had 
only  about  seventy  churches  for  its  million  and  a  half  of  inhabitants.  But 
their  capacity  is  generally  enormous,  for  one  Catholic  church  accom- 
modates, frequently,  eight  or  ten  different  congregations,  on  a  Sabbath ;  so 
the  deficiency  is  not  so  great  as  it  appears  to  be.  The  church  of  Notre  Dame 
is  full  of  interest,  from  its  thrilling  historical  associations.  All  Europe  was 
shocked  by  the  blasphemous  farce  which  took  place  within  its  walls  in  No- 
vember, 1793,  when  the  female  Maillard,  a  courtesan,  was  placed  on  the  high 
altar,  and  crowned  "  the  Goddess  of  Reason,"  by  Herbert,  amidst  a  multitude 
of  his  infatuated,  vulgar  associates.  Nine  years  later,  with  great  military 
and  ecclesiastical  ceremony,  the  re-establishment  of  the  Catholic  religion  in 
France,  was  here  celebrated,  and  two  years  later  yet,  in  December  1804, 
the  coronation  of  Napoleon  took  place,  with  still  surpassing  splendor. 

Without  doubt,  the  most  interesting  walk  in  any  city  in  the  world,  is  that 
from  the  east  front  of  the  Louvre,  in  Paris,  through  the  courts  and  gardens 
of  the  palaces,  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  and  the  Elysian  Fields,  to  the  Arch 
of  Triumph,  at  the  Barriere  de  L'Etoile,  in  the  city  wall,  distant  two  miles. 
The  Louvre  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  arranged  on  four  sides  of  a  hollow 
square.  It  was  formerly  the  palace  of  several  of  the  monarchs  of  France, 
now,  it  is  celebrated  for  its  splendid  gallery  of  paintings  and  sculpture. 


AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE.  249 

Passing  from  the  west  side  of  the  Louvre,  you  enter  the  Place  du  Muse- 
um, which  communicates  with  the  Place  du  Carrousal;  the  two  form  an  area 
of  600  by  1200  feet,  bounded  on  three  sides  by  the  Louvre  and  the  Tuille- 
ries,  while  through  a  portal,  on  the  north,  the  Place  du  Palais  Royal  opens 
before  one  a  scene  of  splendor  and  enchantment,  especially  when  illuminated 
at  night,  with  its  delicious  gardens,  long  arcades,  and  its  walks,  filled  with 
gay  promenaders. 

The  Place  du  Carrousal  is  separated  on  the  west  from  the  court  of  the 
Tuilleries,  by  a  railing  of  iron,  with  gateways,  opposite  the  center  of  which 
is  the  Triumphal  Arch,  built  by  Napoleon,  in  honor  of  the  great  events  of 
the  campaign  of  1805.  The  view  from  this  place,  of  the  palace  of  the  Tuil- 
leries is  magnificent,  it  extending  before  you  in  one  continuous  front,  of  over 
a  thousand  feet  long,  and  in  varied  architecture.  Passing  through  a  portal 
in  its  center,  you  enter  an  area  of  sixty  acres,  the  Garden  of  the  Tuilleries, 
the  gayest  and  most  elegant  promenade  in  the  city.  On  the  left,  winds  the 
Seine,  beyond  which  is  the  Palace  d'Orsay,  and  on  the  right,  the  palace-like 
residences  of  Rue  Rivoli.  The  part  of  the  gardens  on  the  east,  is  adorned 
with  neat  parterres,  and  elegant  statues,  and  that  on  the  west,  by  a  dense  fo- 
rest of  ornamental  trees.  Continuing  still  to  the  west,  you  leave  the  grove, 
pass  through  the  Place.de  la  Concorde,  and  continue  on,  and  walk  for  a  mile, 
through  the  forest  of  the  avenue  of  the  Elysian  Fields,  until  you  reach  the 
Triumphal  Arch  at  its  farther  end,  which,  standing  upon  an  elevation  and 
rising  to  the  height  of  152  feet,  can  be  seen  from  every  direction.  This  noble 
arch  commemorates  the  hundred  victories  of  France  over  Europe,  and  is 
covered  with  allegorical  and  historical  sculptures.  It  was  commenced  by  Na- 
poleon, in  1830,  and  finished  by  Louis  Philippe,  in  1836.  Such  a  scene  of 
grandeur,  and  gayety,  and  life,  as  this  walk  opens  to  one,  has  no  counterpart 
in  the  world. 

France  has  been  unequaled  in  the  magnificence  of  her  palaces;  of  these, 
Versailles,  twelve  miles  south-west  of  Paris,  is  the  most  splendid.  It  was 
erected  about  a  hundred  years  since,  by  Louis  XIV,  who  resolved  that  it 
should  be  the  "  center  of  the  politics,  arts,  literature,  and  refinement  of  the 
civilized  world." 

The  whole,  gardens,  parks,  and  forests,  embraced  a  circumference  of  over 
sixty  miles,  with  villages  and  agricultural  grounds,  scattered  here  and  there 
through  it.  To  beautify  the  scenery,  hills  and  ridges  were  created,  leveled, 
or  raised,  and  valleys  filled  up,  or  excavated,  and  upon  the  spot  rose,  as  if  by 
enchantment,  a  city  of  100,000  inhabitants,  with  its  public  squares,  gardens, 
hotels,  and  numerous  institutions  of  charity,  and  of  science.  The  immense 
expense  of  all  this,  amounting  to  over  two  hundred  millions  of  dollars,  to- 
gether with  the  vast  sums  necessary  to  sustain  them,  beggared  France,  and 
was  one  of  the  causes  of  the  revolution. 

The  visitor  is  perfectly  overwhelmed  by  the  immensity  and  the  magnifi- 
cence of  the  buildings,  the  entire  facade  of  which  extends  to  the  enormous 
length  of  about  1600  feet,  with  numerous  porticoes,  multitudes  of  columns, 
and  statues,  windows,  and  doors.  Nor  will  his  wonder  cease,  when  he  views 
the  extent  of   the  grounds,  the    many   groups  of  statues  which    line  the 


250  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

avenues,  the  arbors,  the  shores  of  the  lakes,  and  the  fountains,  one  of  which, 
alone,  cost  $300,000.  So  expensive  is  it  to  maintain  this  vast  establishment, 
that  no  sovereign,  since  the  revolution,  has  dared  to  meet  it.  Louis  Phil- 
ippe made  some  important  additions,  from  his  own  purse,  and  then  threw 
open  the  whole  to  the  people  of  Paris,  as  a  place  of  recreation. 

An  idea  of  how  the  proud  monarch  lived  who  erected  Versailles,  is  given 
in  a  recent  publication,  which  describes  the  ordinary  routine  of  life,  day  after 
day,  and  year  after  year,  of  Louis  XIV,  in  his  palace. 

"At  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  two  servants  carefully  entered  the  chamber 
of  the  king.  One,  if  the  weather  was  cold  or  damp,  brought  dry  wood  to 
kindle  a  cheerful  blaze  upon  the  hearth,  while  the  other  opened  the  shutters, 
carried  away  the  collation  of  soup,  roasted  chicken,  bread,  wine,  and  water, 
which  had  b^en  placed,  the  night  before,  at  the  side  of  the  royal  couch,  that 
the  king  might  find  a  repast  at  hand  in  case  he  should  require  refreshment 
during  the  night.  The  valet  de  chambre  then  entered  and  stood  silently  and 
reverently  at  the  side  of  the  bed  for  one  half  hour.  He  then  awoke  the 
monarch,  and  immediately  passed  into  an  anteroom  to  communicate  the  im- 
portant intelligence  that  the  king  no  longer  slept.  Upon  receiving  this  an- 
nouncement an  attendant  threw  open  the  double  portals  of  a  wide  door,  when 
the  dauphin  and  his  two  sons,  the  brother  of  the  king,  and  the  Duke  of 
Chartres,  who  awaited  the  signal,  entered,  and  approaching  the  bed  with  the 
utmost  solemnity  of  etiquette,  inquired  how  his  majesty  had  passed  the  night. 
After  the  interval  of  a  moment  the  Duke  du  Maine,  the  Count  de  Toulouse, 
the  first  lord  of  the  bed-chamber,  and  the  grand  master  of  the  robes  entered 
the  apartment,  and  with  military  precision  took  their  station  by  the  side  of 
the  couch  of  recumbent  royalty.  Immediately  there  followed  another  pro- 
fession of  officers  bearing  the  regal  vestments.  Fagon,  the  head  physician, 
and  Telier,  the  head  surgeon,  completed  the  train. 

The  head  valet  de  chambre  then  poured  upon  the  hands  of  the  king  a  few 
drops  of  spirits  of  wine,  holding  beneath  them  a  plate  of  enameled  silver, 
and  the  first  lord  of  the  bed-chamber  presented  to  the  monarch,  who  was 
ever  very  punctilious  in  his  devotions,  the  holy  water,  with  which  the  king 
made  the  sign  of  the  cross  upon  his  head  and  his  breast.  Thus  purified  and 
sanctified  he  repeated  a  short  prayer,  which  the  church  had  taught  him,  and 
then  rose  in  his  bed.  A  noble  lord  then  approached  and  presented  to  him  a 
collection  of  wigs  from  which  he  selected  the  one  which  he  intended  to  wear 
that  day,  and  having  condescended  to  place  it,  with  his  own  royal  hands  upon 
his  head,  he  slipped  his  arms  into  the  sleeves  of  a  rich  dressing-gown,  which 
the  head  valet  de  chambre  held  ready  for  him.  Then  reclining  again  upon 
his  pillow,  he  thrust  one  foot  out  from  the  bed  clothes.  The  valet  de  cham- 
bre reverently  received  the  sacred  extremity,  and  drew  over  it  a  silk  stocking. 
The  other  limb  was  similarly  presented  and  dressed,  when  slippers  of  em- 
broidered velvet  were  placed  upon  the  royal  feet.  The  king  then  devoutly 
crossing  himself  with  holy  water,  with  great  dignity  moved  from  his  bed  and 
seated  himself  in  a  large  arm-chair,  placed  at  the  fireside.  The  king  then 
announced  that  he  was  prepared  to  receive  the  First  Entree.  None  but  the 
especial  favorites  of  the  monarch  were  honored  with  an  audience  so  confi- 


AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE.  251 

dential.  These  privileged  persons  were  to  enjoy  the  the  ecstatic  happiness 
of  witnessing  the  awful  ceremony  of  shaving  the  king.  One  attendant  pre- 
pared the  water  and  held  the  basin.  Another  religiously  lathered  the  royal 
chin,  and  removed  the  sacred  beard,  and  with  soft  sponges,  saturated  with 
wine  and  water,  washed  the  parts  which  had  been  operated  upon  and  soothed 
them  with  silken  towels. 

And  now  the  master  of  the  robes  approaches  to  dress  the  king.  At  the 
same  moment  the  monarch  announces  that  he  is  ready  for  his  Grand  Entree. 
The  principal  attendants  of  royalty,  accompanied  by  several  valets  de  cham- 
bre  and  door  keepers  of  the  cabinet,  immediately  took  their  stations  at  the 
entrance  of  the  apartment.  Princes  often  sighed  in  vain  for  the  honor  of  an 
admission  to  the  Grand  Entree.  The  greatest  precautions  were  observed 
that  no  unprivileged  person  should  intrude.  As  each  individual  presented  him- 
self at  the  door,  his  name  was  whispered  to  the  first  lord  of  the  bed-chamber, 
who  repeated  it  to  the  king.  If  the  monarch  made  no  reply  the  visitor  was 
admitted.  The  duke  in  attendance  marshaled  the  new  comers  to  their  several 
places,  that  they  might  not  approach  too  near  the  presence  of  His  Majesty. 
Princes  of  the  highest  rank,  and  statesmen  of  the  most  exalted  station  were 
subjected  alike  to  these  humiliating  ceremonials.  The  king,  the  meanwhile, 
regardless  of  his  guests,  was  occupied  in  being  dressed.  A  valet  of  the 
wardrobe  delivered  to  a  gentleman  of  the  chamber  the  garters,  which  he  in 
turn  presented  to  the  monarch.  Inexorable  etiquette  would  allow  the  king 
to  clasp  his  garters  in  the  morning,  but  not  to  unclasp  them  at  night.  It  was 
the  exclusive  privilege  of  the  head  valet  de  chambre  to  unclasp  that  of  the 
right  leg,  while  an  attendant  of  inferior  rank  might  remove  the  other.  One 
attendant  put  on  the  shoes,  another  fastened  the  diamond  buckles.  Two 
pages,  gorgeously  dressed  in  crimson  velvet,  overlaid  with  gold  and  silver 
lace,  received  the  slippers  as  they  were  taken  from  the  king's  feet. 

The  breakfast  followed.  Two  officers  entered  ;  one  with  bread  on  an 
enameled  salver,  the  other  with  a  folded  napkin  between  two  silver  plates. 
At  the  same  time  the  royal  cup-bearers  presented  to  the  first  lord  a  golden 
vase,  into  which  he  poured  a  small  quantity  of  wine  and  water,  which  was 
tasted  by  a  second  cup-bearer  to  insure  that  there  was  no  poison  in  the 
beverage.  The  vase  was  then  rinsed,  and  being  again  filled,  was  presented 
to  the  king  upon  a  golden  saucer.  The  dauphin,  as  soon  as  the  king  had 
drank,  giving  his  hat  and  gloves  to  the  first  lord  in  waiting,  took  the  napkin 
and  presented  it  to  the  monarch  to  wipe  his  lips.  The  frugal  repast  was 
soon  finished.  The  king  then  laid  aside  his  dressing-gown,  while  two  attend- 
ants drew  off  his  night-shirt,  one  taking  the  left  sleeve  and  the  other  the 
right.  The  monarch  then  drew  from  his  neck  the  casket  of  sacred  relics, 
with  which  he  ever  slept.  It  was  passed  from  the  hands  of  one  officer  to 
that  of  another,  and  then  deposited  in  the  king's  closet,  where  it  was  care- 
fully guarded.  The  royal  shirt,  in  the  meantime,  had  been  thoroughly 
warmed  at  the  fire.  It  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  first  lord,  he  presented 
it  to  the  dauphin,  and  he,  laying  aside  his  hat  and  gloves,  approached  and 
presented  it  to  the  king.  Each  garment  was  thus  ceremoniously  presented. 
The  royal  sword,  the  vest,  and  the  blue  ribbon  were  brought  forward.     A 


252  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

nobleman  of  high  rank  was  honored  in  the  privilege  of  putting  on  the  vest, 
another  buckled  on  the  sword,  another  placed  over  the  shoulders  of  the  monarch 
a  scarf,  to  which  was  attached  the  cross  of  the  Holy  Ghost  in  diamonds,  and 
the  cross  of  St.  Louis.  The  grand  master  of  the  robes  presented  to  the  king 
his  cravat  of  rich  lace,  while  a  favorite  courtier  folded  it  around  his  neck. 
Two  handkerchiefs  of  most  costly  embroidery  and  richly  perfumed  were  then 
placed  before  his  majesty,  on  an  enameled  saucer,  and  his  toilet  was  com- 
pleted. 

The  king  then  returned  to  his  bedside.  Obsequious  attendants  spread  before 
him  two  soft  cushions  of  crimson  velvet.  In  all  the  pride  of  ostentatious 
humility  he  kneeled  upon  these,  and  repeated  his  prayers,  while  the  bishops 
and  cardinals  in  his  suite,  with  suppressed  voice,  uttered  responses.  But 
our  readers  will  be  weary  of  the  recital  of  the  routine  of  the  day.  From 
his  chamber  the  king  went  to  his  cabinet,  where,  with  a  few  privileged  ones, 
he  decided  upon  the  plans  or  amusements  of  the  day.  He  then  attended 
mass  in  the  chapel.  At  one  o'clock  he  dined  alone,  in  all  the  dignity  of  un- 
approachable majesty.  The  ceremony  at  the  dinner-table  was  no  less  punc- 
tilious and  ridiculous  than  at  the  toilet.  After  dinner  he  fed  his  dogs,  and 
amused  himself  in  playing  with  them.  He  then,  in  the  presence  of  a  number 
of  courtiers,  changed  his  dress,  and  leaving  the  palace  by  a  private  stair- 
case, proceeded  to  his  carriage,  which  awaited  him  in  the  marble  court-yard. 
Returning  from  his  drive,  he  again  changed  his  dress,  and  visited  the  apart- 
ments of  Madame  Maintenon,  where  he  remained  until  10  o'clock,  the  hour 
of  supper.  The  supper  was  the  great  event  of  the  day.  Six  noblemen 
stationed  themselves  at  each  end  of  the  table  to  wait  upon  the  king.  When- 
ever he  raised  his  cup,  the  cup-bearer  exclaimed  aloud  to  all  the  company, 
"  drink  for  the  king."  After  supper  he*  held  a  short  ceremonial  audience 
with  members  of  the  royal  family,  and  at  midnight  went  again  to  feed 
his  dogs.  He  then  retired,  surrounded  by  puerilities  of  ceremony  too  tedious 
to  be  read. 

Such  was  the  character  of  one  of  the  most  majestic  kings  of  the  Bourbon 
race.  France,  wearied  with  them,  drove  them  from  the  throne,  and  placed 
Napoleon  there,  a  man  of  energy,  of  intellect,  and  of  action  ;  toiling,  night 
and  day,  to  promote  the  prosperity  of  France  in  all  its  varied  interests.  The 
monarchs  of  Europe,  with  their  united  millions,  combined  and  chained  the 
democratic  king  to  the  rock  of  St.  Helena,  and  replaced  the  Bourbon.  But 
the  end  is  not  even  yet.  In  view  of  the  wretched  life  of  Louis  XIV,  Ma- 
dame Maintenon  exclaimed :  "  Could  you  but  form  an  idea  of  what  kingly 
life  is  !     Those  who  occupy  thrones  are  the  most  unfortunate  in  the  world." 

The  French  have  a  passion  for  the  fine  arts,  and  a  taste  for  them  every- 
where prevails,  as  is  shown  by  the  countless  museums  and  schools  of  art 
hroughout  France.  In  the  palace  and  galleries  of  the  Louvre,  in  Paris,  is 
the  finest  collection  in  Europe.  For  perhaps  a  mile  or  more  the  halls  stretch 
along,  filled  with  every  variety  of  beautiful  paintings  and  statuary.  Ad- 
mission, as  with  all  public  places  in  Paris,  is  free,  and  on  Sunday  the  Louvre 
is  crowded  with  all  sorts  of  folks,  from  the  workman  in  his  dirty  blouse,  to 
ihe  fashionable  belle,  radiant  in  beauty  and  glittering  in  jewels.     All  this 


AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE.  253 

has  a  great  influence  upon  the  taste  of  even  the  most  humble  citizen,  whc 
has  ever  before  him  the  grand  and  beautiful  in  the  galleries  of  art,  in  the 
public  gardens,  palaces,  buildings,  and  all  that  is  curious  and  instructive  in 
the  scientific  institutions.  Even  too,  while  walking  the  streets,  his  taste  is 
exercised  by  statuary  everywhere  disposed,  by  beautiful  architecture,  and 
ever  leaping  fountains. 

The  influence  of  this  is  shown  in  the  fine  taste  of  the  people,  as  exhibited 
in  their  neat-fitting  dresses,  their  fondness  for  flowers,  their  graceful  man- 
ners and  unaffected  politeness.  It  increases  their  love  of  country  and  their 
devotion  to  their  religion,  which  calls  to  its  aid  all  the  powers  of  genius,  and 
all  the  fascinations  of  art. 

In  Paris,  such  long,  deep,  and  high  ranges  of  warehouses  as  those  in  New 
York,  Boston,  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  rarely  exist ;  nor  streets  occupied 
alone  with  private  residences.  Business  is  there  more  scattered,  and  the 
goods  are  sold  in  small  show-shops  on  the  street,  the  rest  of  the  building  be- 
ing often  used  for  their  manufacture.  European  shopkeepers  evince  far 
more  taste  in  displaying  their  goods  than  ours,  an  advantage  which  compen- 
sates for  the  inferior  size  of  their  stores. 

In  many  of  the  antique  public  buildings  of  some  of  these  old  cities  the  rain 
water  is  discharged,  not  by  ordinary  spouts  from  the  roofs,  but  by  the  open 
stretched  mouths  of  men  or  animals,  cut  in  caricatured  forms  :  the  animals 
thus  represented  are  generally  lions  or  dragons,  or  their  heads  with  human 
bodies.  "  On  the  continent  every  idea  is  made  to  assume  some  form  of  life,  so 
as  to  speak  to  the  senses  ;  and  there  is  scarcely  a  beautiful  or  magnificent 
conception  published  in  Europe,  that  has  not  been  painted,  engraved,  sculp- 
tured, carved  or  moulded  in  plaster,  and  placed  in  galleries,  or  offered  for 
sale  in  the  shops.  Thus  the  mass  of  the  people  can  look  upon  the  visible 
embodiment,  and  at  least  be  pleased,  if  they  cannot  master  the  mighty 
thought,  and  enter  that  beautiful  world  of  intellect  where  it  was  produced." 

As  a  whole,  the  stranger  is  apt  to  be  disappointed  with  the  general  appear- 
ance of  Paris.  It  owes  its  reputation  for  magnificence  to  some  of  its  unri- 
valed localities,  the  Boulevards,  gardens,  palaces,  etc.  Generally  the  streets 
are  winding  and  narrow,  having  side-walks  scarce  a  yard  wide,  and  in  many 
parts  are  disgusting  from  filth.  The  houses  are  alike  in  color,  and  when  new 
are  white,  and  when  old,  dingy.  The  architecture  is  various,  and  abounds  in 
ornament.  Monotonous  uniform  blocks  and  squares,  like  those  of  our 
cities,  with  their  plain  smooth  walls  and  square  windows,  are  here 
unknown. 

From  within  the  city  the  view  is  marred  by  the  ugly  forms  of  millions  of 
stone  pipes  and  earthen  cylinders,  that  alike  project  above  the  roofs  of  the 
palaces  and  the  meanest  dwellings. 

The  French  towns,"  like  our  own,  show  the  ideas  and  characteristics  of  the 
inhabitants.  In  France  they  are  absorbed  in  the  idea  of  the  glory  of  the  nation, 
seeming  satisfied  to  be  even  homeless,  provided  the  splendor  of  their  country 
excites  universal  admiration.  In  America,  the  people  but  little  regard  the 
State,  thinking  their  comfort  and  respectability  paramount  to  the  advance- 
ment of  public  buildings,  museums  and  parks.     The  one  results  in  a  State, 


254  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

which  is  glorious,  and  the  other  in  a  people,  independent  and  happy.  A 
blending  of  ideas  would  improve  each. 

France  has  a  large  number  of  foundling  hospitals,  one  of  which,  the  Hospice 
ties  Enfants  Trouvts,  (Hospital  for  the  Foundlings)  in  Paris,  was  visited  by 
Dr.  Durbin.  This  institution  was  founded  by  St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  who,  from 
the  purest  motives,  sought  out  the  abandoned  children  of  the  city,  to  have  them 
supported  in  their  infancy,  and  educated  in  virtue.  The  effect  of  this  insti- 
tution has  been  to  prevent  infanticide,  which  prevailed  to  an  alarming  degree; 
at  the  same  time  it  is  probable  it  has  increased  the  fruits  of  illicit  love.  Most 
of  the  children  are  scattered  about  the  interior,  to  be  nursed  by  the  healthy 
peasant  women  :  at  that  time  they  numbered  about  fifteen  thousand.  As  with 
most  of  the  city  hospitals,  this  is  under  the  care  of  the  self-sacrificing  bene- 
volent sisters  of  charity. 

About  ten  thousand,  of  the  thirty  thousand  children  annually  born  in  Paris, 
are  illegitimate,  and  licentiousness  prevails  to  an  enormous  extent  among  all 
classes.  But,  owing  to  police  regulations,  open  immodesty  in  the  public 
streets  is  very  rare,  differing  greatly  in  this  respect  from  the  shameless  degra- 
dation so  often  encountered  in  London,  or  even  in  our  own  New  York.  The 
licentiousness  of  Paris  and  London  is  probably  about  the  same,  although, 
owing  to  the  misrepresentation  of  English  travelers  in  everything  regarding 
France,  we  have  been  taught  to  consider  differently.  In  our  country  and  in 
England  licentiousness  is  alone  tolerated  in  the  male  sex  ;  in  France,  about 
the  same  lenity  is  extended  to  woman,  and  known  guilt  does  not  always  expel 
her  from  society.  The  moral  condition  of  the  French  woman  is  affected  by 
her  position.  Instead  of  being  modest  and  shrinking,  like  the  American  wo- 
men, she  is  bred  to  business,  engages  in  politics,  and  is  educated  to  converse 
on  any  topic  Hence  she  loses  the  delicacy  and  the  modesty  that  confer  the 
greatest  chanu  upon  the  sex. 

Among  the  higher  classes  marriage  is  a  matter  of  convenience — not  of 
love.  These  loveless  marriages  are  not  so  very  repugnant,  as  thereafter  the  woman 
can,  at  option,  have  a  lover.  A  sort  of  tacit  understanding  exists  between 
man  and  wife  to  obey,  to  a  certain  extent,  their  own  fancies.  The  French  wo- 
man considers  her  fondness  for  her  lover  not  at  all  conflicting  with  her  duty 
to  her  husband  and  family,  whose  honor  and  welfare  she  deems  sacred. 
These  are  novel  ideas  to  an  American,  and  abhorrent  to  all  his  habits  of 
thought  and  education. 

Dr.  Durbin,  on  leaving  Paris,  hired  a  good  courier,  who  understood  the 
principal  languages  of  Europe.  His  duty  was  to  engage  passages,  obtain 
good  rooms  at  the  hotels,  attend  to  the  passport,  "do  up"  the  talking,  and 
have  a  general  oversight  over  all  traveling  and  hotel  arrangements.  This 
individual  having  secured  seats  in  the  diligence,  our  traveler  and  compan- 
ions left  Paris  toward  sunset,  one  summer's  day,  en  route  for  Switzerland. 
The  French  diligence  is  a  singular,  ungainly,  yet  comfortable  conveyance, 
and  is,  perhaps,  preferable  to  the  English  stage  coach.  It  is  a  movable 
edifice  with  three  rooms.  The  first  and  foremost,  is  called  the  Coupe,  and 
holds  three,  which  is  very  pleasant  in  fine  weather,  as  it  has  glass  in  the 
f-ont,  and  at  the  sides  ;  but  when  it  is  cold,  it  is  rather  airy,  and  therefore^ 


AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE.  255 

less  comfortable  than  the  interior,  which  is  the  next  apartment,  with  accom- 
modations for  six,  three  on  a  seat,  who  sit  face  to  face.  The  last  division  is 
the  rotond,  which  is  generally  entered  behind,  like  an  omnibus,  and  the  seats 
run  lengthwise,  and  will  also  hold  six.  The  prices  vary  in  each  apartment, 
being  highest  in  the  coupe,  and  the  next  in  the  interior  ;  these  are  also  sepa- 
rated by  thick-cushioned  walls.  Four  or  six  horses  are  tied  to  this  huge  ma 
chine,  usually  by  rope  traces,  with  immense  collars,  and  harness,  covered 
with  skins  on  the  shoulders.  The  postilion,  in  his  livery,  mounts  his  nigh 
wheel  horse,  and  if  there  are  six,  another  mounts  the  next,  and  then,  amid 
the  cracking  of  the  whips,  the  machine  starts  with  a  rumbling  noise  that  is 
absolutely  deafening. 

Our  traveler  found  journeying  in  the  diligence  agreeable,  and  by  breakfast 
time,  next  morning,  was  ninety  miles  distant  from  Paris,  and  on  the  succeed- 
ingmorning,  at  the  ancient  city  of  Dijon.  Its  streets  are  narrow,  crooked, 
and  without  sidewalks.  Although  it  was  the  Sabbath,  it  appeared  like  a  high 
market  day,  for  as  they  neared  the  town,  they  passed  carts,  wagons,  don- 
keys with  panniers,  women  "  toting"  milk  cans  on  their  heads,  and  on  enter- 
ing it,  they  found  the  shops  open,  and  business  going  on  as  usual.  They 
were  impressed  by  the  good  looks  of  the  citizens,  the  neat  and  genteel  ap- 
pearance of  the  young  men  and  women,  and  by  the  unusual  number  of  hale, 
cheerful-looking  old  folks. 

At  two  o'clock,  the  next  morning,  they  reached  Chalons,  on  the  Saone,  and 
there  took  a  steamer  for  Lyons.  In  the  absence  of  any  regular  sleeping  ac- 
commodations, our  traveler  threw  himself  upon  a  settee,  and  laying  down  a 
chair  horizontally,  formed  a  suspension  pillow,  by  tying  his  handkerchief 
across  its  legs,  as  is  often  done  on  board  our  steamers,  and  then  endeavored 
to  compose  himself  to  sleep.  Vain  attempt !  Some  Frenchmen  coming  into 
the  cabin,  were  infinitely  tickled  at  this,  to  them,  novel  mode,  and  were  so 
merry  over  it,  that  he  was  obliged  to  relinquish  all  endeavors  to  court  the 
drowsy  god. 

The  steamer  was  of  iron,  long,  and  narrow,  and  uncomfortable,  and 
thronged  by  a  variety  of  people,  of  many  countries  and  costumes,  some  of 
them  very  queer.  The  breakfast-table  could  accommodate  but  a  tithe  of 
their  number.  Such  a  rush  as  was  made  by  these  Frenchmen,  when  break- 
fast was  ready,  transcended  anything  of  the  kind  ever  seen  on  an  American 
steamer,  ^ome  of  them  even  straddling  over  the  table,  in  their  anxiety  to  se- 
cure seats. 

As  the  party  of  our  traveler  conversed  in  English,  the  company  were  at 
first  shy,  thinking  they  were  Englishmen,  but  on  discovering  they  were  Ame- 
ricans, their  whole  manner  changed,  and  at  once  they  became  "  the  lions"  of 
the  day. 

The  country  on  the  Saone  is  not  so  picturesque  as  that  on  the  Seine.  The 
stream  is  of  a  clear  light  green,  resembling  our  own  beautiful  Ohio — 
and  several  graceful  suspension  bridges  overarch  it.  In  the  latter  part  of  the 
day,  the  signs  of  the  vicinity  of  a  large  town  abounded — the  hills  were  cul- 
tivated to  their  summits  in  pretty  patches,  and  elegant  chateaus  were  seen  on 
either  side,  with  beautiful  groves,  gardens,  and  statues.     Two  hours  before 


256  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

sunset,  they  arrived  at  Lyons,  finely  situated  on  the  neck  of  land  formed  by 
the  union  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Saone.  Its  streets  are  generally  narrow, 
dirty,  and  destitute  of  sidewalks,  and  evince  the  stir  and  bustle  of  manufac- 
ture and  commerce.  Its  situation,  at  the  junction  of  two  rivers,  the  bold  ele- 
vations in  its  vicinity,  the  odor  of  bituminous  coal,  and  the  incessant  clang  of 
its  iron-works,  give  it  a  strong  resemblance  to  Pittsburgh. 

Lyons  is  famous  for  its  manufactures  of  velvets,  stockings,  ribbons,  and 
silk  goods  of  all  sorts,  the  best  of  which  are  exported  to  our  country.  From 
an  observatory  in  the  vicinity,  is  had  over  a  broad  and  beautiful  plain,  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  Alps,  above  which,  robed  in  eternal  ice,  towers  the  ma- 
jestic Mont  Blanc. 

The  Lyonese  are  noted  for  their  patriotism  and  devotion  to  the  Catholic  re- 
ligion. In  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Irenseus,  is  an  inscription  on  the  pave- 
ment, to  the  memory  of  19,000  Christians,  who,  in  the  reign  of  the  Roman 
Emperor  Severus,  suffered  martyrdom. 

This  journey  from  Paris  to  Lyons,  gave  our  traveler  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  French  rural  life,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  interior. 

"  The  public  roads  in  France  are  wide,  and  usually  ornamented  on  both 
sides  with  lofty  trees,  which  give  them  a  grand  appearance.  The  French 
are  peculiarly  fond  of  trees  planted  in  regular  rows,  the  general  style,  alike 
in  the  public  gardens  of  their  cities,  and  on  their  roads  in  the  country.  Un- 
like the  low  and  branching  top  shade  trees  usually  planted  in  our  country, 
for  ornament,  these  are  lofty,  slender,  and  graceful,  the  rows  often  meeting 
at  top,  and  forming  a  beautiful  shady  arch,  over  the  center  of  the  road. 

Generally,  in  the  northern  and  central  parts  of  France,  there  are  no  hedge- 
rows, as  in  England,  nor  walls,  and  fences,  as  in  our  own  country,  to  divide 
the  different  fields,  so  that  the  whole  country  appears  like  one  single  extended 
field  of  immense  magnitude.  Let  the  reader  imagine  himself  on  an  emi- 
nence,  from  which  he  has  a  complete  unbroken  view  to  the  horizon  ;  let  him 
fancy  an  agreeable  variety  of  extended  but  gradual  slopes  of  hill  and  dale, 
spread  out  before  him,  over  which  he  beholds  the  surface  of  one  boundless 
and  undivided  plantation,  except  the  long  and  straight  lines  of  various  colors, 
from  the  different  crops,  and  here  and  there,  long  rows  of  lofty  trees,  and  he 
will  have  an  idea  of  the  magnificence  of  a  French  landscape." 

Compared  to  ours,  or  the  English,  the  implements  of  French  husbandry 
are  very  primitive  and  rude,  and  a  sight  of  the  awkward,  clumsy  plow,  used 
to  break  up  the  beautiful  fields  of  this  boasted  center  of  the  civilization  of 
Europe,  would  excite  the  smiles  of  a  Yankee  farmer.  French  agriculture  is, 
indeed,  in  a  low  condition,  although  no  country  in  Europe,  perhaps,  contains 
so  large  a  proportion  of  arable  land. 

The  burden  wagons  have  generally  two  wheels  only,  and  these  enormous. 
The  tire  consists  of  several  connecting  pieces,  frequently  an  inch  or  more 
thick,  and  ten  inches  wide.  A  large  log  forms  the  axle,  huge  pieces  of  tim- 
ber the  shafts,  and  oak-beams  the  bed,  so  that  the  wagon  alone,  would,  with 
us,  be  thought  a  load  ;  but  the  French  draught-horses  are  of  prodigious 
strength,  and  one,  with  comparative  ease,  will  draw  this  cumbrous  vehicle, 
laden  with  six  or  eight  casks  of  wine  or  a  large  load  of  hay. 


AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE.  257 

The  laborers  that  our  traveler  passed  in  the  fields,  were  principally  women, 
dressed  in  a  short,  tight  jacket,  and  a  coarse,  red  woolen  skirt,  narrow  and 
short.  The  sabot,  a  heavy  wooden  shoe,  shaped  like  a  shoe  last,  covered 
their  feet,  which  made  their  gait,  of  course,  clumsy  and  unelastic.  These 
peasant-women  are  short,  slender,  homely,  and  work  in  the  vineyards  and 
fields,  along  with  the  men,  and  occasionally  guide  the  plow. 

Dr.  Durbin  first  saw  our  Indian  corn  growing  in  the  valley  of  Dijon,  one 
of  the  sweetest  of  vales.  Their  route,  for  about  twenty  miles,  lay  on  its  western 
border,  through  a  succession  of  towns  and  villages,  while  it  stretched  fai 
away  to  the  eastward,  "  covered  with  vineyards  and  fields  of  grain,  like  an  ocean 
of  many  colors  ;  from  the  whitened  rye,  ready  for  the  sickle,  and  the  golden 
wheat,  ripening  apace,  to  the  dark-green  of  the  vine  and  the  rich  foliage  of 
the  many  clumps  of  trees  that  adorned  the  landscape,  until  the  delightful  view 
was  bounded  by  a  range  of  high  grounds,  whose  blue,  dim  outline  was  just 
distinguishable  in  the  distance,  the  whole  forming  a  scene  of  exquisite  loveli- 
ness and  rural  beauty."  "  An  American,  traveling  through  the  interior  of 
France,  is  impressed  with  the  entire  absence  of  the  appearance  of  comfort  in 
the  cabins  of  the  peasants  and  lower  classes  generally.  They  live  almost 
entirely  in  villages.  For  miles  one  may  travel  over  the  most  beautifully  cul- 
tivated fields,  and  his  eye  not  rest  on  a  single  dwelling  ;  at  length  he  will 
come  to  an  insignificant  town  or  village,  and  there  find,  hoarded  together  in 
one  dirty  place,  the  laborers  for  several  square  leagues  of  land.  Generally 
their  houses  are  of  stone,  and  often  situated  in  low  moist  places  :  the  floors 
are  of  stone,  tiles,  or  of  the  earth  itself,  and  on  a  level  with  the  street.  One 
roof  covers  the  dwelling,  the  barn  and  the  stable.  With  such  appendages, 
and  a  naturally  clayey,  muddy  soil,  and  with  the  most  slovenly  habits,  one  can 
readily  perceive  that  a  French  peasant's  family  must  carry  into  the  house  on 
their  sabots  an  immense  amount  of  mud  and  manure.  Often  may  they  be  seen 
scraping  out  the  mud  and  manure  from  their  houses,  as  a  hostler  would  his 
stable  ;  beside  this,  their  cottages  are  both  miserably  furnished  and  lighted. 
The  general  style  of  building  in  France,  and  especially  in  the  country,  is 
heavy  and  uninteresting.  This  is,  in  part,  owing  to  the  material  used,  a  soft 
limestone,  and  in  part,  the  style  of  the  country  edifices.  Stone  is  plenty — 
brick  and  wood  are  scarce  ;  hence  everything  is  built  of  stone,  the  humble  cot- 
tage, the  stately  mansion,  the  stable  and  the  palace  :  the  character  of  the 
stone  is  dull  and  soft,  and  the  external  surface  is  generally  covered  with  a 
coarse  dull  stucco.  If  you  pass  a  gentleman's  chateau,  you  will  find  it  of  the 
same  character,  inclosed,  and  to  a  considerable  degree,  hidden  by  a  high 
stone  wall  of  heavy  masonry  and  coarse  stucco  :  such  an  edifice,  in  American 
eyes,  is  anything  but  a  convenient,  pleasant  place  of  residence  for  domestic 
enjoyment.  Many  of  the  public  hotels  are  miserable  hovels,  and  at  the  same 
time  are  so  constructed  as  to  give  the  traveler  a  view  of  the  worst  parts  of  the 
concern  at  his  first  entrance  :  not  unfrequently  are  they  entered  through  the 
kitchen." 

Soon  after  leaving  Paris,  our  traveler,  for  the  first  time,  saw  a  shepherd, 
with  his  flock.     Between  the  center  of  the  main  roads,  in  France,  and  the 
fields  usually  is  a  grass-plot,  some  two  rods  wide,  upon  which  the  sheep  feed. 
17 


258  AN  AMERICAN  IN  FRANCE. 

The  intelligence  of  the  shepherds'  dogs,  which  tend  them,  is  surprising.  A  dog 
will  allow  the  sheep  to  nibble  within  a  yard  of  the  grain,  but  the  instant  any- 
thing like  trespass  appears,  he  will,  of  his  own  accord,  drive  off  the  meek- 
eyed  intruder  by  a  good-natured  snap.  Cattle  are  also  similarly  watched  by 
these  dogs,  which  are  of  a  peculiar  breed. 

Near  Lyons,  Dr.  Durbin  saw  three  yoke  of  oxen  plowing  on  a  level  field 
and  light  soil,  with  one  man  to  drive,  and  a  second  to  plow :  an  active  Penn- 
sylvania farmer,  he  observes,  with  two  good  horses,  would  have  accomplished 
double  as  much  as  these  two  men  and  six  oxen. 

The  French  vineyards  did  not  meet  his  expectations,  as  he  found  them  to  re- 
semble immense  pea-patches.  The  vines  are  cultivated  in  hills,  in  rows, 
each  clump  growing  round  a  stick  about  a  yard  high.  From  what  he  person- 
ally saw,  he  was  confident  that  the  inhabitants  of  vine-growing  countries  are 
far  more  temperate  than  those  of  others,  as  the  ordinary  wines,  drank  where 
produced,  so  far  from  intoxicating,  actually  benefit  the  peasant,  being,  in 
fact,  an  important  part  of  his  .daily  sustenance.  On  going  out  in  the  morn- 
ing to  his  labors,  the  peasant  takes  along  a  loaf  of  coarse  black  bread  and  a 
canteen  of  wine,  but  seldom  partakes  of  meat,  cheese,  or  butter.  He  drinks 
the  pure  juice  of  the  grape,  a  far  different  article  from  the  wine  of  commerce, 
which  derives  its  body  or  taste  from  a  skillful  combination  of  drugs  and 
spirits.     It  is  from  this  cause  that  intemperance  is  so  rare  in  France. 

Our  traveler  spent  three  very  interesting  days  in  Lyons,  and  early  on  the 
morning  of  the  fourth,  departed,  with  his  companions,  in  the  diligence.  Soon 
they  were  out  in  the  country,  and  found  the  road  thronged  with  market- 
women  on  donkeys  of  every  variety.  Mounted  on  pack-saddles,  these  females 
were  busy  knitting,  while  on  each  side  of  them  hung  huge  baskets,  or  panniers, 
brimfull  of  eggs,  butter,  cheese,  etc. 

They  breakfasted  at  an  ugly  little  village  by  the  road-side.  Being  on  top  of  the 
diligence  our  traveler  saw  that  the  garret  of  the  inn  was  a  cocoonery.  Before 
the  door  women  were  sorting  cocoons,  "  whose  web,"  says  he,  "  is  by  this 
time,  probably  shining  in  the  vest  of  a  fine  lady  in  Paris,  or  adorning  perhaps, 
the  person  of  a  chambermaid  in  my  own  humble  dwelling  in  Pennsylvania, 
while  these  poor  work-women  are  still  clad  in  their  rude  woolen  petticoats." 

It  being  harvest,  the  fields  were  filled  with  busy  groups  of  men,  women  and 
children.  In  rude  cradles,  under  the  trees,  infants  were  sleeping,  while, 
hard-by,  under  the  full  blaze  of  a  summer's  sun,  their  mothers  were  toiling. 

Their  route,  on  this,  their  last  day  in  France,  lay  through  the  richest  valley 
they  had  yet  seen,  the  crops  being  very  heavy,  the  cattle  strong  and  fat,  and 
the  vines  unusually  large,  and  trained  around  mulberry  trees.  The  people 
seemed  to  live  in  comfort,  and  to  have  some  rational  ideas  of  home,  as  each 
little  farm  had  its  own  separate  and  neat,  though  humble  dwelling.  "  What 
a  paradise,"  says  our  traveler,  "  it  would  be,  if  its  population  of  one  hundred 
thousand  was  made  up  of  Yankee  farmers." 


FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON.  259 


FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON. 

Since  Dr.  Durbin  traveled  through  France,  the  country,  so  far  as  its 
exterior — its  monuments,  its  quays,  and  its  roads — are  concerned,  has  been 
set  in  wondrous  order  by  Louis  Napoleon,  who  will  be  long  remembered  as 
the  Renovator  of  the  public  magnificence  of  Paris,  and  all  the  other  chief 
cities  of  the  empire.     It  has  been  the  great  era  of  improvement  in  France. 

Our  countryman,  Rev.  Dr.  H.  W.  Bellows,  was  at  Paris  in  the  summer 
of  1867,  at  the  period  of  the  famous  French  Exposition,  when  the  city  was 
alive  with  people  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe.  From  his  published  letters 
we  make  some  interesting  and  instructive  extracts  : 

"  Three  days,  during  which  we  have  not  thrown  off  our  sea-sickness,  or 
become  wonted  to  terra  fir  ma,  do  not  afford  much  experience  of  French  life. 
But  it  is  time  enough  to  leave  a  general  impression,  which  may  only  lose 
vividness  by  familiarity.  The  general  aspect  of  an  external  civilization, 
splendid  and  finished  beyond  our  utmost  conceptions,  is  undeniable.  Paris, 
over  whose  principal  streets  and  parks  we  have  been  continually  wandering 
since  we  arrived,  is  one  great  spectacle  of  architectural  vastness,  splendor, 
taste,  and  finish,  where  magnitude,  costliness,  arrangement,  and  effect,  com- 
bine to  surprise  and  delight  the  eye.  The  city  is  laid  out  with  scenic  art. 
It  seems  the  work  of  one  mind,  in  which  all  the  parts  are  subordinate  to  the 
whole,  and  every  private  interest  or  convenience  is  subservient  to  the  public 
result.  Whereas,  in  England  or  America,  you  feel  that  the  public  has  what 
is  left  after  private  interests  and  convenience  have  all  been  satisfied,  you  feel 
here  that  the  public  helps  itself  first,  and  flings  the  crumbs  to  the  private 
citizen. 

Paris,  therefore,  imperial  and  spectacular  as  it  is,  is,  to  a  wonderful  extent, 
cosmopolitan  and  universal ;  and,  therefore,  spite  of  emperor  and  police, 
popular  and  democratic.  For  what  can  be  so  enriching  and  satisfying  to  the 
humble  and  poor,  as  the  feeling  that,  while  they  have  little  or  no  private 
property,  they  are  actual  share-holders  in  immense  public  wealth,  and  conve- 
niences and  splendor,  to  the  common  use  of  which  they  are  freely  invited. 

When  I  saw  a  poor  woman  sitting  on  the  grass  in  the  Tuileries,  within 
stone's  throw  of  the  palace,  with  her  day's  work  of  sewing  lying  around  her 
and  her  baby  playing  near,  apparently  in  full  enjoyment  of  the  public  pro- 
tection and  of  the  beauty  of  the  noble  garden,  I  understood  how  despotism 
might  be  rendered  very  tolerable  by  an  enlightened  policy,  and  how  France 
and  Paris — with  their  glory,  and  strength,  and  beauty — stand  in  the  place 
of  private  possessions  to  millions  of  her  people.  They  walk  and  stroll  in  her 
boulevards  and  parks,  gratified  and  dazzled  with  the  variety,  and  elegance, 
and  charm  that  everywhere  greets  them,  without  those  feelings  of  discontent 
which  we  might  expect  from  not  being  able  to  appropriate  more  to  strictly 
private  use. 

Everybody  is  at  home  in  Paris,  in  one  sense,  and,  in  another,  everybody 


260  FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON. 

is  out  of  doors.  The  people  live  in  the  streets  and  cafes.  The  sidewalks 
are  thronged ;  and  you  would  think  the  whole  population  had  agreed  to  take 
tea  or  coffee,  wine  or  eau-de-vie,  together,  on  the  Boulevard  des  Italians, 
between  8  and  10  p.  m.  Such  a  perpetual  picnic  on  pavements  was  never 
seen.  But,  then,  the  pavements  are  so  broad  and  smooth,  and  the  streets  so 
clean  and  free  from  dust,  that  it  is  almost  as  comfortable  as,  and  far  more 
lively  than  eating  and  drinking  at  home. 

Homes  of  some  sort  these  genteel,  well-dressed  people  must  have ;  but 
where  are  they  ?  All  the  streets,  little  and  big,  seem  given  up  to  shops. 
Private  doors,  with  names  and  numbers,  are  not  seen.  No  porch  or  portico 
welcomes  you  to  Mr.  Smith's  or  Mr.  Jones'  residence !  You  find,  after 
awhile,  that  all,  except  the  selectest  few,  live  in  apartments — three  or  four 
rooms  on  a  floor — and  that  you  approach  them  usually  through  a  court  opening 
into  an  interior  square,  from  which,  by  a  common  staircase,  you  ascend  to 
your  entresol — your  first  story,  two  flights  up  ;  your  second,  three,  and  so  on. 
Paris  does  n't  mind  climbing ;  and  such  a  getting  up  stairs  was  never  any- 
where else  so  indispensable.  Broadway  has  hitherto  seemed  to  me  to  present 
a  tolerable  example  of  denseness  in  the  population  of  a  street ;  but  almost  any 
considerable  street  in  Paris  beats  it  outright. 

Notwithstanding  the  vast  shifting  crowd  in  the  streets,  there  is  an  air  of 
leisure  and  festivity  which  makes  you  feel  as  if  the  real  Frenchman's  business 
was  enjoyment.  The  general  expression  of  countenance  is  a  good-natured 
raillery.  The  earnestness  and  anxiety  of  the  American  face  is  totally  lacking. 
A  kind  of  refined  Celt,  with  a  turned-up  nose>  irregular  features,  a  bantering 
look,  and  a  carefully-disposed  dress,  a  fancy  shirt-bosom,  and  a  bright-colored 
neck-tie,  light  gloves,  and  nice  boots — the  Frenchman  twirls  his  cane  as  the 
Spanish  woman  flutters  her  fan,  and  seems  at  perfect  ease,  and  with  unlim- 
ited time  at  his  disposal. 

He  sits  down  to  his  eau-de-vie  and  his  cup  of  coffee,  in  the  open  street,  as 
if  he  never  intended  to  get  up.  He  fumbles  his  Figaro,  or  evening  news- 
paper, as  if  all  that  concerned  him  in  the  world  were  in  his  grasp.  Perhaps 
his  wife  and  daughter  are  with  him,  as  easy  and  contented  as  himself ;  but 
more  likely,  under  forty,  he  has  no  such  incumbrances — if  not  in  humble  life. 
He  lights  like  a  butterfly  in  the  sun,  and  is  quiet  and  comfortable.  He  came, 
you  know  as  little  whence ;  he  goes,  you  know  as  little  whither. 

In  the  evening,  you  will  find  him,  perhaps,  at  the  open-air  concert,  a  la 
Musard,  where  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  the  best  orchestral  performers  render 
the  best  and  the  newest  music  to  perfection,  and  where,  amid  the  mild  radiance 
of  countless  moons  of  gas,  and  in  the  shelter  of  beautiful  trees,  you  sit  with  five 
thousand  decorous  (<Parley-vous"  for  an  hour,  to  mingle  music  and  tobacco- 
smoke,  eau-sucre,  or  something  stronger.  A  little  later,  you  may  see  him  at 
the  Jardin  Mabille  or  Des  Fleurs,  where  the  demi-monde,  in  most  hypocritical 
decorum,  set  the  fashions  for  the  rest  of  the  world,  while  all  sorts  of  stran- 
gers and  natives  dance  in  a  somewhat  free  manner,  and  foreign  virtue  and 


FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON.  261 

piety  improve  their  opportunities  for  seeing  how  gay  and  elegant  folly  can  be 
made,  and  how  discreetly  self-abandonment  can  carry  herself  before  company. 
The  theaters  and  operas  will  probably  have  the  attention  of  a  few  thousand 
more ;  although  the  Frenchman  is  never  fully  at  home  in  any  kind  of  house. 

The  streets  and  shops  are  a  perpetual  "exposition,"  much  more  attractive 
and  seeable  than  any  set  exhibition  of  wares  can  be.  You  pass  through  nar- 
row passages  (connecting  streets  together  by  a  sort  of  inland  navigation), 
which  glitter  with  jewelry  and  small  wares,  and  in  which  even  vegetables 
and  meats  are  so  arranged  as  to  make  a  part  of  the  artistic  display  ;  for,  in 
France,  they  have  carried  the  art  of  exhibition  to  perfection. 

Every  grocer's,  fruiterer's,  dry  goods',  butcher's  shop,  is  a  study  of  neatness, 
picturesque  display,  and  appeal  to  admiration.  The  windows  are  each 
studies,  done  in  some  one  of  the  different  styles — now  with  fruits,  then  with 
clothes ;  here  with  confectionery,  and  there  with  jewelry ;  in  this  quarter, 
with  shawls,  in  that,  with  boots  and  shoes ;  on  this  side,  with  bread  and 
cakes,  on  the  other,  with  bottles  and  glassware.  The  gas  is  double  refined, 
and  in  double  quantity.  The  night  is  as  light  as  the  day.  All  the  cabs 
must  carry  lanterns  after  dark,  and  this  gives  the  view,  as  you  look  down, 
say  from  the  Arc  de  Triomphe,  upon  the  Champs  Elysees,  a  look  as  if  the 
long  broad  road  were  buzzing  with  myriads  of  gigantic  glow-worms. 

But,  after  all,  there  is  a  cosy  inside  to  Paris,  as  well  as  a  brilliant  outside. 
The  courts  around  which  so  many  of  the  larger  houses  are  built,  furnish  cool 
and  quiet  retreats  from  the  noise  and  rush  of  the  streets.  It  is  charming  to 
experience  how  sudden  and  unexpected  the  change  is. 

Yesterday  (June  6th,  1867)  we  went,  with  all  the  world,  to  the  great 
review  on  the  Longchamps,  or  race-course,  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  This 
magnificent  park  seems  large  enough  to  rusticate  all  Paris  in.  Its  breadth 
appears  equal  to  its  length,  and  its  thorough  simplicity  and  naturalness,  its 
amplitude  of  open  space,  and  its  abundance  of  trees  and  shade,  fit  it  for 
public  displays  and  private  enjoyment. 

The  field  of  the  review  could  not  have  been  less  than  a  plain  of  a  mile 
square.  Around  the  square  were  gathered  the  sight-seeing  Parisians  in 
dense  masses.  Every  point  of  advantage  was  crowded  with  a  .special  swarm 
of  people.  The  trees  were  hanging  with  human  fruit;  producing  the  oddest 
effect  in  the  distance.  On  one  side  of  a  small  portion  of  the  square  (the 
usual  stand  of  the  judges  and  favored  spectators  of  the  races)  some  thousand 
fortunate  persons  enjoyed  the  privilege  of  a  raised  seat,  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  empress  and  her  ladies,  and  in  direct  front  of  the  emperor's 
position  as  he  reviewed  the  troops.  In  different  parts  of  the  field  were 
posted  what  seemed  about  forty  thousand  infantry,  fifteen  thousand  cavalry, 
and  five  thousand  artillerymen.  There  may  not  have  been  as  many,  or  three 
may  have  been  more.  But  it  took  the  troops  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes 
(part  of  the  time  at  double-quick,  and  with  the  cavalry  on  the  full  trot)  to 
pass   the   point  we   occupied.     Promptly,  at   the   moment  announced,  the 


262  FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON. 

emperor's  cortege,  all  mounted,  appeared  at  the  most  distant  corner  of  the 
field.  It  was  welcomed  by  a  blast  of  trumpets,  which,  taken  up  by  a  hundred 
bands,  echoed  round  the  vast  plain. 

The  three  monarchs — the  emperor  of  the  French  on  the  right,  next  the 
emperor  of  Russia,  and  next  to  him  the  king  of  Prussia — rode  in  front,  fol- 
lowed by  a  long  cortege  of  brilliantly-uniformed  officers  (perhaps  a  hundred), 
their  respective  staffs,  and  other  distinguished  functionaries.  Gortschakoff 
and  Bismarck  were  said  to  be  among  them.  A  special  troop  of  cavalry  (the 
emperor's  guard),  very  splendid  in  equipments,  followed  the  Imperial  train. 
At  a  brisk  trot  this  gold-and-silver-burnished  company  rode  round  the  whole 
field,  inspecting  the  general  appearance  of  the  troops  at  rest.  They  were 
greeted  with  "vive  Vempereur"  in  moderate  transports.  Passing  near  our 
stand,  the  general  appearance  of  the  emperors  was  distinctly  made  out  by 
the  aid  of  a  good  opera-glass. 

Louis  Napoleon,  who  rode  a  pretty,  sorrel  horse,  had  on  a  blue  sash,  and 
fewer  orders  than  his  companions.  His  hair  was  lighter  than  I  had  expected. 
His  face  is  heavy  and  cold,  without  a  trace  of  the  beauty  of  his  family ;  yet 
not  without  the  mould  of  his  house.  He  is  thick-set ;  but  rides  well,  and 
bows  gracefully. 

The  emperor  of  Russia,  who  rode  a  black  horse  (his  own,  brought  from 
St.  Petersburg  for  the  occasion,  and  without  that  square-cut  English  tail, 
which  is  now  adopted  in  France),  is  tall,  only  fairly  good-looking,  with  dark 
beard,  and  without  any  of  the  commanding  air  of  his  father.  The  French 
emperor  talked  much  with  the  Russian,  and  little,  seemingly,  with  the  Prus- 
sian monarch. 

The  king  of  Prussia  has  little  that  is  distinguished  in  his  appearance  at  a 
distance ;  but  is  represented,  by  those  personally  acquainted  with  him,  as 
fascinating  in  his  manners,  especially  to  ladies.  At  a  certain  moment,  the 
monarchs  rode  out  of  the  field  into  the  inclosure,  just  before  the  empress's 
stand,  and  made  their  salute  to  her  and  her  court.  Then,  having  taken  their 
post  perhaps  thirty  rods  off,  fronting  the  stand  occupied  by  favored  spec- 
tators, the  troops  passed  before  them  in  review. 

After  the  review  —  which  finished  with  the  promptness  with  which  it 
began — the  royal  company  and  cortege  dismounted,  and  joined  the  empress 
and  her  party  within  the  tribune  or  stand.  At  a  distance  of  perhaps  a  dozen 
yards,  I  saw  the  introductions  and  hand-shakings  of  monarchs,  and  queens, 
and  princesses  going  on.  The  empress  was  marked  by  a  dress  purely  white, 
with  a  green  parasol.  I  could  not  see  the  expression  of  her  face.  Those  who 
did,  describe  it  as  worn  and  changed. 

Last  evening  (June  7th)  the  prefect  of  the  Seine — the  mayor  of  Paris — 
gave  a  great  ball,  at  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  to  the  imperial  guests.  The  splendid 
palace  was  illuminated  outside  with  gas,  which  is  now  so  arranged  along  the 
chief  lines  of  all  the  public  buildings  as  to  make  an  immense  and  universal 
illumination  very  easy,  however  expensive  it  may  be.     Inside,  thousands  of 


FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON.  263 

wax  caudles  shed  a  full,  mild  light  on  the  gilded  and  curtained  walls  of  this 
gorgeous  edifice.     About  six  thousand  guests  were  present. 

There  was  neither  announcement  nor  introduction  ;  but,  on  delivering  his 
ticket  of  invitation,  the  guest  was  passed  up  the  long  stair-cases  by  lackeys 
in  red  plush  breeches  and  gold-laced  coats,  or  between  the  emperor's  guards, 
with  muskets  in  their  rigid  hands,  looking  like  lifeless  statues.  Arriving  at 
the  top,  he  was  passed  from  room  to  room,  amid  flowers  and  fountains,  until 
he  arrived  at  the  chief  saloon.  Here  the  principal  ball-room  was  railed  off, 
and  made  accessible  only  to  the  diplomatic  corps  and  other  civil  functionaries. 
Raised  seats  surrounded  the  dancing  floor,  and  from  an  outside  gallery,  a  few 
hundred  fortunate  guests  could  look  down  upon  the  scene.  This  gallery  was 
itself  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  scene.  Broad  and  colonnaded,  several 
hundred  feet  long,  and  wide  enough  for  a  large  promenade,  it  was  completely 
covered  with  a  gilded,  temporary  lattice-work,  which  was  overrun,  ceiling 
and  sides,  by  a  delicate  vine  of  living  green,  converting  it  into  a  vast  arbor, 
more  elegant  and  graceful  than  any  species  of  decoration  I  had  ever  seen. 
The  guests  were  all  in  knee-breeches  or  tights,  with  silk  stockings,  and  more 
than  half  in  uniform  or  court  dresses.  A  kind  of  Quaker-cut  coat,  embroid- 
ered in  gold,  or  silver,  or  parti-colored  silks  and  satins,  with  lace  cravats,  and 
orders  of  all  devices  and  varieties,  formed  the  ordinary  costume ;  others  ap- 
peared in  black,  with  the  inevitable  breeches,  pumps,  and  white  gloves. 

The  ladies,  with  the  exception  of  more  jewels,  were  not  dressed  otherwise 
than  in  our  own  American  ball-rooms.  They  were  more  plump  and  large 
than  our  women ;  but  had  little  of  their  pure  and  brilliant  complexion  or 
regularity  of  features.  They  looked,  however,  in  better  health,  and  had 
most  charming  manners.  There  was  no  pushing  or  rudeness  in  the  vast 
crowd  ;  and,  although  the  floor  showed  the  tags  of  torn  dresses  and  scraps  of 
muslin,  on  the  whole,  the  ladies  carried  their  trains  through  the  crowd  with 
unexpected  safety  and  success. 

At  10:30  p.m.  a  blast  from  the  band,  breaking  into  the  Russian  hymn,  an- 
nounced the  arrival  of  the  emperors  and  their  suites.  The  streets,  for  a  mile 
approaching  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  had,  from  an  early  hour,  been  lined  with 
people  to  watch  the  royal  carriages,  which  are  so  lighted  as  to  show  their 
interior  and  passengers.  A  great  curiosity  to  get  a  view  of  the  guests 
instantly  showed  itself,  and  was  restrained  only  by  general  courtesy  from 
becoming  a  rush.  I  could  not  push,  nor  did  I  know  enough  of  the  premises  to 
find  a  point  of  observation ;  and  it  was  at  least  two  hours  before  I  got  any 
sight  of  the  imperial  party.  There  could  not  have  been  more  than  two  sets 
of  dancers,  and  these  I  never  got  near  enough  to  see. 

At  about  11:30  p.m.  the  royal  party  made  a  tour  of  the  rooms,  and  even 
then  I  had  only  a  glimpse  of  their  heads.  But  about  midnight,  by  a  lucky 
chance,  I  found  myself  jammed  with  a  friend  into  a  narrow  passage,  through 
which  the  emperor  passed,  and  in  spite  of  a  dozen  officials  with  silver  chains 
round  their  necks,  who  tried  to  crowd  us  out  of  the  way,  we  could  not  disap- 


264  FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON. 

pear,  there  being  no  place  to  disappear  in,  and  accordingly  standing  stock-still 
we  had  a  view  almost  at  fingers'  ends  of  the  whole  brilliant  company. 

First  came  the  emperor  of  Russia  with  the  empress  Eugenie;  he  was 
firm  and  sober,  looking  a  little  as  if  a  Polish  assassin  might  be  lurking  even 
in  that  guarded  company ;  she  gracious  and  affable,  but  faded,  and  not  com- 
manding in  beauty  or  bearing,  and  dressed  much  like  any  other  lady.  Then 
came  the  king  of  Prussia,  with  some  unknown  princess ;  then  the  emperor  of 
France,  with  the  princess  Mathilde. 

Louis  Napoleon,  born  in  1808,  has  a  poor  walk  and  an  uninteresting  pres- 
ence. He  looks  care-worn  and  cold,  anxious  and  reserved.  His  complexion 
is  pallid  and  his  expression  deprecatory.  His  hair  is  fast  turning  grey.  There 
is  nothing  to  excite  enthusiasm  in  his  look  or  manner.  In  private,  he  is 
reported  as  mild-spoken,  amiable,  and  of  quick  intelligence ;  but  his  face  is 
both  impassive  and  unpromising.  All  the  portraits  flatter  him.  The  prin- 
cess of  Russia,  a  general  favorite,  followed. 

Bismarck,  a  noble,  tall,  full-faced  man,  clad  in  a  white  uniform,  with  an 
air  of  power  and  victory,  was  in  the  procession,  and  interested  me  more  than 
anybody. 

A  poorer-looking  set  of  men,  generally  speaking,  it  would  be  difficult  to 
collect.  Many  were  very  short  and  crooked ;  many  insignificant  in  face  and 
carriage,  and  their  elaborate  dresses  only  added  to  their  indifferent  aspect. 
The  value  set  on  ribbons  and  orders,  on  titles  and  family  names,  is  past  all 
belief  to  an  American ;  and  the  intense  curiosity  to  see,  and  the  deference 
shown  to  these  crowned  heads,  by  their  own  subjects,  is  wonderful,  to  use  no 
other  adjective. 

Supper  was  served  through  the  evening  at  various  counters,  behind  which 
stood  numerous  liveried  waiters.  It  was  ample  and  dainty,  without  foolish 
profusion.  Unintoxicating  drinks,  and  ices,  and  sherbet,  with  punch  and  lem- 
onade, and  no  wines,  so  far  as  I  saw.  There  was  great  moderation  and  deco- 
rum shown  about  the  tables.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  general  courtesy  mark- 
ing the  ordinary  intercourse  of  average-conditioned  foreigners.  Americans 
have  something  to  learn  from  them  in  this  direction. 

Democratic,  France  doubtless  is,  in  its  tastes  and  customs ;  but  its 
democracy  is  social  rather  than  political,  in  contradistinction  to  our  own 
land,  where  it  is  political  rather  than  social.  I  venture  to  say  that  less 
jealousy  exists  between  rich  and  poor,  high  and  low,  in  France  than  in 
America,  and  that  people  care  even  less  for  the  status  of  those  they  associate 
with.  They  ride  in  second-class  cars,  they  drive  in  shabby  hacks,  they  meet 
freely  in  public  places,  and  there  is  a  jovial  and  kindly  intercourse  between 
them.  Moreover,  waiters,  drivers,  and  common  folk,  are  intelligent  and 
sharp-witted  in  their  own  sphere  of  life.  The  French  head  is  characteristi- 
cally well  developed,  and  the  face  expressive. 

It  is  surprising,  however,  how  little  interest,  in  political  or  other  general 
news,  the  people  seem  to  take.     The  newspapers  are  very  poor  and  scanty, 


FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON.  265 

as  compared  with  ours.  The  interest  in  universal  concerns  is  small.  Amer- 
ica is  of  much  account  only  in  the  eye  of  far-looking  economists  and  states- 
men. Improved  as  our  reputation  is,  the  ignorance  ahout  us  is  still  gross, 
and  the  indifference  still  more  so.  They  know  that  somehow  we  are  getting 
away  millions  of  European  people,  although  few  of  the  emigrants  are  French, 
who  have  no  taste  and  little  skill  in  colonial  work — (witness  Algeria  w^hich  it 
takes  ahout  as  many  troops  to  keep  in  order  as  it  has  population.)  They 
know  we  are  growing  rich  and  powerful ;  but  they  have  no  notion  of  our 
civilization,  or  superiority  in  substantial  respects.  They  have  no  conception 
of  the  relative  higher  kind  of  civilization,  greater  independence,  intelligence, 
earnestness,  and  dignity,  which  marks  our  whole  life.  An  American  can 
afford  to  smile  at  their  splendor  and  accumulated  riches,  their  equipages  and 
spectacles,  their  titles  and  orders,  and  feel  that  the  real  progress  of  civiliza- 
tion is  now  going  on  upon  the  other  side  of  the  great  ocean. 

It  is  impossible  to  leave  Paris  or  France  without  an  increased  sense  of  the 
material  majesty  of  the  nation  and  country.  The  American  idea  of  France  is 
derived  too  much  from  English  prejudices  to  be  correct ;  and  we  look  at  it 
too  much,  in  our  generation,  through  the  feelings  we  have  for  its  immediate 
government,  to  do  justice  to  the  permanent  character  which  belongs  to  the 
people,  and  to  appreciate  the  immense  liberties  and  privileges  which  have 
been  slowly  wrested  from  the  successive  dynasties,  and  which  no  regime 
dares  to  invade.  The  industry  of  the  country  is  so  various,  its  ingenuity 
and  taste  so  pre-eminent,  and  its  resources  so  rich  and  self-contained,  that  its 
wealth  is  easily  accounted  for,  and  can  not  be  readily  diminished  by  bad 
government.  But  what  is  most  impressive,  is  the  union  of  longevity  with 
youth.  Ages  have  stored  up  their  accumulations  of  riches  in  architecture, 
arts,  and  public  works.  The  country  is  teeming  with  agricultural  labor  and 
experience.  Its  wines,  and  silks,  and  laces,  supply  the  world.  Its  importa- 
tions are  light ;  its  exportations,  enormous.  Its  people  are  sober,  industri- 
ous, and  saving.  Life  is  reduced,  in  all  its  economies,  to  a  finished  system. 
Waste  or  superabundance  is  unknown ;  and  the  people  bear  the  marks  of 
general  health,  due  to  the  wisdom  of  their  personal  habits,  the  mixture  of 
labor  and  leisure,  their  aptness  for  recreation,  and  their  knowledge  how 
innocently  to  mingle  in  social  relaxations.  A  universal  pride  in  their 
country,  and  a  devotion  to  its  glory,  sustain  the  government  in  constant 
improvements ;  and  the  people  find  their  freedom  and  happiness  largely  in 
the  provisions  made  for  their  daily  enjoyment  of  out-of-door  life,  in  the  midst 
of  public  gardens,  abundant  light,  and  cheap  music. 

The  great  cities  are  everywhere  marked  with  evidences  of  the  care  of  the 
government  to  gratify  the  national  pride  in  monuments  and  public  works. 
It  is  no  wonder  that  the  Frenchman  is,  of  all  men,  the  least  disposed  to 
emigrate,  and  thinks  himself  the  citizen  of  the  foremost  nation.  The  gov- 
ernment is  not  slow  to  encourage  his  self-complacency.  The  very  "  Expo- 
sition," now  in  progress,  is  only  one  of  the  means  it  takes  to  show  its  people. 


266  FRANCE  UNDER  LOUIS  NAPOLEON. 

that  France  can  beat  other  nations  in  every  form  of  industry  and  art,  and  can 
fill  half  the  whole  space  allotted  to  the  world  with  her  own  manufactures 
and  products.  She  has  made  her  capital  the  pleasure-ground  of  the  civilized 
human  race.  The  superfluous  wealth  of  all  countries  sets  toward  her  beauti- 
ful boulevards.  A  perpetual  stream  of  gold  obeys  the  superlative  attraction 
of  her  exquisite  civilization,  and  flows  steadily  into  her  unreturning  hand. 
She  visits  no  other  country ;  but  entertains  all.  And  she  is  entitled  to  her 
privilege ;  for  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  the  world  has  ever  seen,  at  any 
period  of  its  history,  a  city  so  deserving  of  wonder  and  admiration  as  the 
city  of  Paris.  Of  the  strength  of  the  existing  government,  there  can  be 
little  doubt. 

Louis  Napoleon  has  known  how  to  surround  himself  with  able  adminis- 
trators, and  has  devoted  himself  to  the  glory  of  France.  His  character  does 
not  inspire  moral  enthusiasm  nor  personal  respect ;  but  it  does  awaken  the 
sentiment  of  admiration  for  ability,  courage,  persistency,  and  power. 

He  has  made  the  army  his  ally  by  a  steady  regard  to  its  self-complacency, 
and  has  placed  France  so  much  at  his  mercy  (not  only  by  the  fortifications 
of  Paris,  but  by  the  whole  military  discipline  of  the  nation,)  that  it  is  hard 
to  see  how  any  revolution  can  occur  without  its  aid,  or  how  its  aid  could 
be  won  away  from  the  dynasty  he  has  established.  And  perhaps  the  liber- 
ties of  France  are  as  likely  to  flourish  under  his  natural  successors  as  under 
any  other  masters  of  a  more  popular  sort. 

France  is  a  democratic  empire.  There  is  a  passion  for  personal  rule  and 
imperial  display,  united  with  a  craving  for  a  large  possession  of  popular 
independence.  This  independence  is  hardly  political,  and  is  only  poorly 
representative.  Neither  the  parliament  nor  the  press  are  free ;  nor  is  there 
any  sufficient  right  of  assembling  together  for  the  consideration  of  public 
questions  or  the  manufacture  of  public  opinion.  But  the  government  con- 
cedes largely,  and  with  an  ever  freer  hand,  what  the  people  would  vote  to 
themselves,  if  they  had  the  chance.  She  takes  away  the  appetite  for  political 
action,  by  granting  the  fruits  of  it  in  advance.  Interference,  either  by  the 
police  or  by  any  other  authorities,  with  individual  rights,  is  small.  Life  and 
property  are  wonderfully  safe. 

The  idealists  and  political  philosophers  are,  of  course,  intensely  dissatis- 
fied with  a  state  of  things  which  does  not  recognize  any  of  the  great  precepts 
of  political  liberty.  They  feel  the  thraldom  of  the  press  and  of  the  assem- 
bly to  be  an  intense  humiliation ;  but  I  doubt  much  if  the  people  commonly 
enough  share  their  sentiments  to  make  the  prospects  of  any  change  for  the 
better  very  encouraging.  I  doubt  even  if  the  death  of  the  emperor  would  be 
attended  by  the  changes  which  are  commonly  predicted  in  England  and 
America.  But  France  is  a  dangerous  country  to  prophesy  in  or  about ;  and 
I  will  not  pretend  to  have  any  adequate  materials  for  a  valuable  judgment 
about  its  political  future.  But  certainly  my  respect  for  the  nation  and  the 
government  has  increased  with  a  nearer  view  of  it." 


A   NEW    ENGLANDER 


IN 


OLD  ENGLAND.* 


STRATFORD   UPON   AVON,   THE   BIRTHPLACE   OF   8HAKSPEARE. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Historical  Sketch  of  England — ^Reflections  natural  to  an  American  on  leaving  for  England 
— the  Ocean— Portsmouth — Petty  Annoyances — English  Rail-cars — London — Bibacious 
indulgences — Gog  and  Magog — Guildhall — City  Police — Cheapside — St.  Paul's — its  Mon- 
uments— Temple-bar — the  Strand — Narrow  limits  of  London  proper — Houses  of  Paiha- 
mcnt — Magnificence  of  the  City — Westminster  Abbey — Anecdote  of  a  Vermonter — Visit 
.  to  the  House  of  Lords — Lord  Brougham — Affair  at  Slievegamon — Duke  of  Wellington — 
Appearance  of  the  English  Nobility — English  bluntness — Buckingham  Palace—Flunky 
spirit  of  the  Humbler  classes— Hyde  Park — Equestrianism — London  Omnibuses. 

England,  that  great  nation,  upon  whose  possessions  the  sun  never  sets, 
and  whose  tributary  countries  and  people  are  more  numerous  than  Rome  in 
the  days  of  her  greatest  splendor  could  boast,  occupies  the  southern  part  of 
an  island,  which,  with  Scotland,  is  known  as  Great  Britain.  The  original 
inhabitants  were  a  Celtic  tribe,  but  such  has  been  the  result  of  numerous 

*  This  article  is  written  by,  and  details  the  experiences  of,  H#***#  D**,  Esq.,  an  earlj 
friend  and  schoolmate. — H.  H. 

261 


268  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

early  conquests,  that  nowhere  in  England  can  be  found  a  town,  or  even  a 
hamlet,  of  this  ancient  lineage.  In  the  principality  of  Wales,  however,  the 
primitive  race  still  flourishes,  and  enables  us  to  form  tolerably  correct  notions 
of  the  painted  barbarians,  whose  courage  was  praised  by  Caesar,  and  whose 
beauty  was  admired  by  Roman  maidens.  Little  is  known  of  this  people 
till  the  ambition  of  the  great  Roman  conqueror  induced  Julius  Csesar,  fifty- 
five  years  before  the  birth  of  Christ,  to  attempt  its  conquest.  His  success 
was  of  little  service  to  his  country,  as  tin  was  the  only  valuable  product  of 
the  island,  which,  from  its  nature,  could  be  the  source-  of  no  considerable 
revenue.  The  habits  and  manners  of  the  aborigines  singularly  resembled 
those  of  our  own  native  Indians.  Though  a  brave  and  hardy  people,  they 
could  not  withstand  the  disciplined  valor  of  Roman  cohorts,  and  for  nearly 
four  hundred  years,  the  "  mistress  of  the  world"  held  this  island  as  the  ultima 
thule  of  her  western  possessions.  Constantine  the  Great,  the  first  Christian 
emperor  of  Rome,  was  a  native  of  Great  Britain,  and  under  his  reign 
Christianity  was  preached  to  the  inhabitants,  just  emerging  from  barbarism. 
The  final  departure  of  the  Romans  left  the  Britons  at  the  mercy  of  predatory 
bands  of  Picts  and  Scots,  whose  home  lay  in  the  north  part  of  the  island. 
To  resist  their  overwhelming  numbers,  the  Saxons,  a  warlike  nation  of  Ger- 
many, were  called  to  the  aid  of  the  Britons,  but  when  their  joint  efforts  had 
expelled  the  common  enemy,  the  Saxons,  finding  the  country  suited  to  tlieir 
wants,  refused  to  depart,  and  succeeded  in  making  good  their  pretensions  to 
the  soil.  Hengist  and  Horsa,  the  leaders  of  the  Saxon  band,  everywhere 
triumphed,  and  Hengist  became  the  first  Saxon  King  of  Kent.  But  it  was 
not  till  the  year  519  that  the  western  part  of  the  province  was  subdued  ;  nor 
till  the  year  585  that  the  Saxon  Heptarchy,  or  the  division  of  their  conquest 
into  seven  kingdoms,  each  with  its  separate  king,  was  established.  The  Sax- 
ons, being  Pagans,  and  the  Britons,  Christians,  the  triumph  of  the  former  was 
a  triumph  of  a  false  over  the  true  faith.  The  mission  of  St.  Augustin,  begun 
in  the  year  596,  and  authorized  by  Pope  Gregory,  whose  interest  in  the  distant 
island  had  been  powerfully  excited  37  the  beauty  of  some  English  slaves 
exposed  for  sale  in  tie  market-place  of  Rome,  was  eminently  successful. 
From  the  seventh  century  downward,  Christianity  may  be  regarded  as  the 
national  faith  of  the  whole  island. 

The  two  centuries,  during  which  the  heptarchy  extended,  was  a  period  ot 
almost  constant  intestine  war  and  confusion.  Egbert,  king  of  Wessex,  partly 
by  conquest,  and  partly  by  inheritance,  became  the  first  monarch  of  all  Eng- 
land, and  as  such  was  solemnly  crowned  at  Winchester  in  the  year  800. 

It  is  from  this  period  that  the  name,  England,  and  the  introduction  of  the 
Saxon  language,  from  which  our  own  is  chiefly  derived,  take  their  date. 
Englishmen  are  accustomed  to  regard  the  reign  of  Egbert's  grandson,  the 
renowned  Alfred,  as  the  beginning  of  the  greatness  and  grandeur  of  tneir 
country.  To  him  belongs  the  honor  of  establishing  trial  by  jury,  the  muni- 
cipal organization  of  towns,  and  a  regular  militia.  He  first  substituted  stone 
and  brick  for  wood,  in  the  erection  of  dwellings.  The  endowment  of  a  uni- 
versity at  Oxford,  witnesses  to  his  regard  for  learning.  The  founding  of  the 
British  navy  testifies  to  his  wisdom  and  his  patriotism.     Poet  and  historian, 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  269 

philosopher  and  legislator,  in  all  these  characters  he  commands  the  respect 
and  the  reverence  of  mankind.  The  invasion  of  a  Scandinavian  race  of  pirates, 
known  in  later  times  as  Danes,  for  a  time  drove  the  youthful  king  from  his 
throne,  but  his  wisdom  in  council  and  his  bravery  in  the  field  soon  enabled 
him  to  exhibit  his  clemency  to  the  conquered  invaders,  by  offering  them 
permission  to  remain  in  the  country  on  the  single  condition  of  embracing 
Christianity,  and  submitting  to  baptism.  In  the  reign  of  Alfred's  grandson, 
Athelstan,  about  the  year  930,  the  Bible  was  translated  for  the  first  time  into 
the  Saxon  language.  About  the  middle  of  this  century,  the  influence  of  the 
clergy,  in  the  affairs  of  the  State,  begins  to  be  perceptible  ;  an  influence  which 
continually  augmented  down  to  the  reformation,  and  which  stamped  a  memo- 
rable impress  both  for  good  and  for  evil  upon  the  character  of  the  English 
people  for  nearly  five  centuries.  After  nearly  sixty  years'  absence,  the  Danes 
again  invaded  the  island  in  994,  when  Ethelred,  the  king,  compounded  for 
his  safety  by  a  large  bribe.  Eight  years  later,  this  monarch  caused  a  general 
massacre  of  all  the  Danes  resident  in  the  island.  This  act  of  treachery  cost 
him  his  crown,  and  Canute,  the  son  of  the  Danish  conqueror,  divided  the 
sovereignty  of  the  country  with  Edmund  Ironsides,  the  son  of  Ethelred.  But 
in  1042,  the  Danish  royal  line  became  extinct,  and  all  England  was  again 
united,  under  Edward  III,  surnamed  the  Confessor.  Though  the  dominion 
of  the  Danes  lasted  near  two  centuries,  they  introduced  no  change  of  laws, 
customs,  language,  or  religion,  and  seem  to  have  readily  amalgamated  with 
the  people  they  had  conquered. 

Another  of  the  great  eras  of  English  history,  perhaps  its  greatest,  is  the 
Norman  conquest.  A  disputed  succession  to  the  crown  between  Harold  and 
William,  surnamed  the  Conqueror,  was  decided  by  the  battle  of  Hastings, 
fought  on  the  24th  of  October,  1066.  The  field  of  Hastings  terminated  the 
Saxon  dominion  in  LVvjland,  after  continuing  six  hundred  years.  Much  that 
constitutes  the  free  institutions  of  England  as  well  as  of  our  own  country, 
has  come  down  to  v.g  from  our  Saxon  forefathers.  The  limited  power  of  the 
supreme  magistrate,  the  recognition  of  the  popular  will,  the  paramount 
authority  of  the  great  council  of  the  nation,  the  administration  of  justice  by 
the  people  ^jonselves,  in  the  form  of  jurors,  the  principles  of  local  self- 
government,  and  the  non-interference  with  the  people,  except  in  great  emer- 
gencies, all  formed  parts  of  the  institutions  of  the  Anglo-Saxons. 

With  the  Norman  invasion  was  introduced  the  feudal  system,  the  great 
peculiarity  of  which  was  the  tenure  of  land  on  condition  of  military  ser- 
vice. All  grants  of  land  were  supposed  to  proceed  from  the  monarch.  To 
these  grants  were  attached  the  obligation  to  appear,  at  the  summons  of  the 
king,  on  the  field  of  battle,  with  a  given  number  of  retainers,  horses,  and  mu- 
nitions of  war.  In  the  same  mode,  the  knights  and  squires  held  from  the  greai 
lords,  on  condition  of  famishing  a  proportionate  military  force,  on  command 
of  their  feudal  superiors.  In  this  way,  there  became  attached  to  every  acre 
of  land  in  tha  country,  the  duty  of  providing  for  its  defense.  Intimately  con- 
nected with  this  system  was  the  institution  of  chivalry,  which  softer ed  the 
manners  '  t  a  rur'.e  age,  by  the  deference  exacted  toward  the  old,  to  ladies, 
and  to  'jie  h'&ksS,  from  all  aspirants  to  knightly  honors. 


270  A  NEW  EtfGLANDER 

The  singular  infatuation,  known  as  the  Crusades,  which  induced  all 
Christendom,  in  the  middle  ages,  to  attach  so  grave  an  importance  to  rescu- 
ing from  the  hands  of  infidel  Turks  and  Arabs,  the  sacred  spots  of  the 
Holy  Land,  made  memorable  by  the  life,  the  miracles,  and  the  sufferings  of 
the  Redeemer  of  mankind,  did  much,  indirectly,  to  extend  the  progress  of 
English  civilization.  The  veteran  warriors  who  returned  from  fighting  around 
the  holy  sepulcher,  brought  back  with  them  more  enlarged  views,  much 
knowledge  of  oriental  manufactures,  then  superior  to  those  of  the  West,  and 
a  variety  of  information  in  science,  in  agriculture,  and  in  art.  Though  there 
was  much  ignorance,  injustice,  and  lawless  violence  in  these  ages,  yet  some 
preparation  was  needed  before  a  revival  of  learning  could  ensue,  or  the  re- 
formation of  the  church  be  accomplished.  The  gradual  improvement  in 
knowledge,  and  the  arts  of  life,  in  commerce,  and  manufactures,  which  is 
perceptible  during  the  long  interval  of  more  than  400  years,  from  the  time 
of  the  conquest,  to  the  accession  of  Henry  VIII,  naturally  resulted  from 
the  new  elements  infused  into  the  English  character  by  the  triumph  of  the 
conqueror.  With  the  reign  of  Henry,  commenced  that  great  movement  of 
the  English  mind,  known  as  the  Protestant  Reformation  ;  and  which  is 
acknowledged  equally  by  its  friends  and  by  its  enemies,  to  have  exerted  a 
wide  influence  on  the  national  character. 

The  invention  of  printing,  and  its  introduction  into  England  by  Caxton,  and 
the  discovery  of  America,  had  just  preceded  the  collision  between  the  Church 
of  Rome  and  her  alienated  sons.  These  causes  gave  a  rapid  impulse  to  the 
oublic  mind.  A  new  light  seemed  to  be  breaking  in  upon  the  world,  and  the 
concurrence  of  base  personal  motives,  upon  the  part  of  the  king,  with  those 
of  a  purer  character  on  the  part  of  many  of  his  counselors,  made  England 
a  Protestant  country.  The  controversy,  the  persecutions,  and  the  wars,  in 
which  this  great  event  involved  the  nation,  continued  for  nearly  a  century 
and  a  half.  By  means  of  these  agitations,  every  man  who  possessed  the  power 
of  reflecting  justly,  found  his  mind  engaged  in  discussing  and  canvassing  the 
momentous  questions,  of  right,  of  justice,  of  authority,  of  duty,  of  protection 
and  obedience.  The  right  to  discuss  implies  the  right  to  decide,  and  the 
right  to  decide,  involves  the  further  right  of  acting  in  accordance  with  our 
decisions.  The  denial  of  this  strictly  logical  conclusion,  led  to  that  great 
event  which  practically  vindicated  the  momentous  truth  that  government  is 
instituted  solely  for  the  good  of  the  governed.  The  great  rebellion  of  1640, 
which  hurled  Charles  I,  from  his  throne,  was  caused  by  the  attempt  to 
coerce  uniformity  of  religious  faith,  and  to  compel  an  unquestioning  obedi- 
ence to  the  state.  Archbishop  Laud,  the  narrow-minded  adviser  of  the  king, 
united  in  his  character  the  vices  of  a  parasite  and  a  bigot.  The  Earl  of 
Strafford,  the  willing  instrument  of  tyranny,  was  both  by  temperament  and 
education,  a  man  of  arbitrary  counsels.  Under  the  guidance  of  these  two 
men,  the  attempt  was  made  to  compel  uniformity  in  faith  and  passive  obedi- 
ence in  the  state.  When  this  audacious  design  was  fully  understood  by  an 
incensed  people,  then  the  fruits  of  the  mental  activity  caused  by  the 
Reformation,  were  witnessed  in  a  throne  leveled  with  the  dust,  a  beheaded 
monarch,  an  aristocracy  in  exile,  and  Oliver  Cromwell,  the  son  of  a  private 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  271 

gentleman  of  Cambridgeshire,  wielding  the  scepter  of  the  conqueror.  The 
rebellion  had  accomplished  its  end  in  administering  a  fearful  lesson  to  all  who 
should  abuse  their  power,  and  as  a  natural  consequence  of  the  extremes  to 
which  sudden  fundamental  changes  in  the  constitution  had  been  carried,  the 
reaction  of  opinion  brought  back  the  exiled  son  of  the  beheaded  king. 

The  expulsion  of  James  II,  and  the  house  of  Stuart  from  England,  twenty- 
eight  years  later  (in  1688),  and  the  invitation  of  the  Parliament  of  England, 
to  William  Prince  of  Orange,  to  become  their  king,  may  be  regarded  as  the 
last  great  epoch  in  English  History.  Though  social  evils  of  great  enormity 
exist,  and  though  the  aristocratic  constitution  of  her  laws  is  at  war  with 
the  more  equitable  spirit  of  the  age,  yet  in  her  long  history,  her  jealous  love 
of  liberty  is  everywhere  apparent ;  and  to  this  jealousy,  we  are  indebted  for 
the  ^reat  fundamental  rights  which  lie  at  the  base  of  our  own  more  extensive 
and  more  democratic  liberty. 

To  an  American  visiting  England  for  the  first  time,  there  is  a  peculiar  interest 
wholly  disconnected  with  the  scenery,  the  arts,  the  commerce,  and  the  manu- 
factures of  the  country.  It  is  as  the  home  of  his  ancestors,  as  the  soil  on 
which  the  battle  has  been  fought,  which  gives  to  us  our  habeas  corpus,  our 
trial  by  jury,  and  our  municipal  institutions,  and  as  the  land,  which,  for  almost 
two  centuries,  has  been  a  refuge  for  the  oppressed,  and  an  asylum  for  the 
destitute  of  all  nations,  that  England  is  to  him,  what  no  other  country  can  be. 
Hardly  less  devoutly  than  the  pilgrim,  who,  for  the  first  time  beholds 
the  places  made  memorable  by  the  life  or  the  death  of  our  Savior,  does  the 
American  traveler  visit  the  scenes  hallowed  in  his  memory  by  the  sufferings 
of  martyrs,  or  by  the  dying  heroism  of  confessors  for  liberty  and  truth,  or 
by  the  protracted  struggle  of  other  generations,  for  the  maintenance  of 
popular  rights,  and  for  the  continuance  of  popular  liberty. 

The  interval  between  leaving  his  country,  and  reaching  that  of  his  fore- 
fathers, is  a  fitting,  and  almost  necessary  preparation  for  any  useful  lesson 
which  his  travels  may  teach  him.  Leaving  the  bustle  and  confusion  of  a 
New  York  dock,  he  gradually,  but  rapidly,  drops  down  the  Narrows,  and 
soon  leaving  behind  him  the  shifting  panorama  of  land  and  water,  of  stores 
and  ships,  he  speedily  finds  himself  alone  amid  a  world  of  waters  ;  east  and 
north,  west  and  south  is  a  vast  unbroken  expanse  of  ocean.  The  sky  seems 
to  cover  him  like  a  dome.  He  feels  that  he  is  in  a  new  world.  The  cares 
and  perplexities  of  his  fast-receding  home  seem  to  him  like  the  childish  trouble 
of  some  remote  period  of  his  existence.  He  is  conscious  of  an  expansion  of 
mind,  and  of  some  additional  preparedness  for  profit  from  his  foreign  expe- 
rience. From  day  to  day  the  sublime  monotony  of  ocean  continues.  Some- 
times a  distant  speck  is  discerned  far  off  on  the  undulating  plain — presently  it 
looms  into  the  likeness  of  a  ship,  and  like  a  dream,  it  vanishes  in  the  obscure 
distance,  or,  with  proud  port,  it  dashes  by,  fearlessly  riding  the  summit  of 
the  waves  ;  again  rigging,  spars  and  masts  soften  out  of  view,  till  some  final 
wave  hides  the  receding  speck  from  sight.  Suns  rise  and  set.  The  vessel, 
with  its  cordage  sometimes  flapping  idly  against  the  masts,  and  sometimes 
whistling  dismal  echos  to  the  wind,  glides  or  plunges  onward  in  its  race. 


272  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

Weary,  and  almost  endless,  seems  the  long  distance,  till,  at  last,  from  aloft, 
at  some  unexpected  moment,  descends  the  sound — "land,  oh  !  land."  Teles- 
copes and  straining  eyes  seek  to  discern  the  coast,  which  none  but  practiced 
optics  can  perceive.  A  few  hours  more,  and  an  adventurous  pilot-boat  runs 
under  your  lee  ;  for  a  moment  the  yards  are  backed,  and  a  strange  and  wea- 
ther-beaten face,  looking  out  from  his  large  and  shaggy  pilot-coat,  is  added 
to  your  familiar  numbers.  To  the  eager  inquiries  for  news,  he  responds,  by 
hauling  from  his  capacious  pockets,  a  few  soiled  papers,  fortunate,  indeed,  if 
free  from  the  marks  of  the  ever-present  English  beer-pot.  The  charge 
of  the  ship  is  wholly  surrendered  to  the  new  comer,  and  in  a  little  time  more 
your  feet  stand  on  English  soil. 

The  first  experience  of  a  traveler,  in  England,  is  pretty  sure,  however,  to 
be  the  death  of  his  romance.  Getting  your  trunks  through  the  Custom- 
House,  is  a  most  prosaic  affair,  and  often,  not  a  little  trying  to  the  temper. 
It  was  early  in  the  morning  when  we  landed  at  Portsmouth.  The  ship's  boats 
took  our  company  to  the  jetty,  but  as  the  water  was  low,  we  stepped  into  a 
small  boat,  and  were  rowed,  certainly  not  more  than  ten  yards,  to  where  we 
could  land  dry-footed.  For  this  service,  which  should  be,  and  probably  was 
paid  for  by  the  owners  of  the  ship,  three  men  wanted  a  shilling  a-piece,  from 
each  of  us.  Wherever  we  went,  there  they  were  after  us  ;  for  hours  they 
hung  around  us,  importuning  us  for  their  pay  ;  nor  would  they  listen  to  our 
representations  that  we  were  to  be  landed  in  England,  by  our  contract  with 
the  owners.  At  last,  more  to  get  rid  of  the  annoyance,  than  because  we  were 
satisfied  with  the  justice  of  their  claim,  we  paid  their  demand,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  fellow,  who  had  the  impudence  to  base  his  claim  upon  having 
held  out  his  hand,  to  steady  us,  as  we  descended  from  the  boat.  We  made 
short  work  with  this  gentleman,  and  got  heartily  cursed  for  our  pains. 

Our  next  business  was  to  dress  ourselves  fit  for  the  usages  of  civilized  life, 
a  habit  we  had  neglected,  in  accordance  with  a  very  proper  custom  at  sea. 
Sending  a  servant  of  the  hotel  for  a  tooth-brush,  he  returned  with  half  a 
dozen  ;  the  price,  he  said,  was  half  a  crown  ;  paying  the  amount,  though  it 
seemed  enormous,  I  thought  nothing  more  of  it,  till  a  more  prudent  friend, 
having  the  same  need  as  myself,  went  out  and  purchased  a  similar  brush  for 
five  pence.  This  revealed  the  fellow's  rascalit)'-,  and  my  own  greenness.  Half 
a  crown  was  the  price  of  the  whole  five,  but  he  succeeded  in  leading  me  to 
think  this  was  the  cost  of  each,  and  so  made  a  fool  of  me,  and  a  rogue  of 
himself,  for  about  twenty-five  pence,  or  about  half  a  dollar.  In  no  very 
pleased  frame,  we  crossed  to  the  Custom-House,  and  found  that  my  trunk 
had  been  broken  open,  in  our  absence,  and  its  contents  tumbled  about.  Leav- 
ing the  remnant  of  my  temper  there,  beside  two  books,  which  he  said  were 
re-prints  of  English  copyright  works,  and  therefore,  not  to  be  recovered  ;  we 
left  Portsmouth  in  the  second  class  cars  for  London. 

These  are  the  cars,  all  respectable  Englishmen,  who  are  not  men  of  wealth, 
are  in  the  habit  of  using.  Yet  they  were  scarcely  more  decent  than  our 
Paddy  cars,  rough  frame-work  boxes,  with  hard,  wooden  seats.  The  passen- 
gers were  well-dressed,  and  well-behaved.  Some  quite  lady-like  females  oc- 
cupied the  seat  next  before  me. 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  273 

The  country  disappointed  us.  It  was  neither  so  densely  inhabited,  nor  so 
thoroughly  cultivated,  as  I  had  contemplated.  The  wide  strip  of  grass  or  weeds, 
bordering  each  small  inclosure  of  cultivated  ground,  particularly  surprised 
us,  in  a  country  where  the  rent  of  land  is  enormous.  A  visible  economy  was 
everywhere  practiced  in  the  wood  used  for  fences.  Hardly  more  than  a 
quarter  of  the  material  customary  with  us,  seemed  to  be  used.  But  the  clouds 
were  so  dark  over  head,  and  the  rain  so  incessant,  as  to  induce  us  to  slumber 
our  way  to  London,  and  wait  a  more  propitious  day  to  gratify  our  curiosity 
about  English  scenery.  Something  less  than  four  hours  brought  us,  at  eight 
o'clock  at  night,  to  London.  Our  long  anticipated  visit  to  this  great  metro- 
polis of  the  world,  was  achieved  in  a  dirty  cab,  a  heavy  rain  and  a  dark 
night. 

Driving  to  a  boarding-house,  much  frequented  by  Americans,  we  were  re- 
ceived by  a  bevy  of  pretty  servant  girls,  in  their  neat  dresses  of  print  and 
snow-white  caps.  One  of  the  prettiest  of  them,  showed  us  immediately  to- 
bed,  wearied  out  as  we  were  with  the  ride,  and  the  perplexities  of  our  entrance 
into  England,  through  its  maritime  gateway  of  Portsmouth. 

The  sensation  on  first  waking  in  London,  is  peculiar.  A  confused  idea  of 
something  strange,  though  pleasurable,  is  immediately  followed  by  the  thought 
you  are  in  London;  St.  Paul's,  Westminster  Abbey,  Parliament,  Hyde  Park, 
and  a  thousand  other  places  rush  upon  your  mind — and  yet  your  room  don't 
look  very  different  from  what  you  are  familiar  with  at  home.  The  curtains  to 
your  bed  appear,  indeed,  a  little  old-fashioned,  and  the  partly  carpeted  floor, 
strikes  you  as  being  rather  shabby.  The  washing-apparatus  may  be  a  trifle 
larger,  but  the  furniture,  generally,  is  much  the  same  as  might  be  seen  in  a 
thousand  boarding-houses  in  New  York,  or  Boston.  The  family  with  whom 
we  boarded  were  Methodists,  and  all  were  assembled,  morning  and  night,  for 
prayers.  We  were  somewhat  astonished,  the  evening  of  that  day,  to  see  all 
the  male  members  of  the  family,  amounting  to  fifteen  or  twenty,  retire  after 
prayers,  into  a  back  room,  and  each  one,  proceeding  to  some  small  cupboards 
on  one  side  of  the  room,  take  down  his  decanter  of  gin  or  brandy,  and  mix 
himself  a  glass  of  liquor.  The  gentleman  who  led  the  devotions  of  the 
family,  indulging,  also,  in  a  pipe  of  tobacco. 

Issuing  into  the  street,  I  observed  a  peculiar-looking  building  facing  the 
street,  at  no  great  distance,  and  before  which  a  policeman  was  stationed. 
Wishing  to  exercise  my  Yankee  gift  of  guessing,  I  merely  asked  the  man  if  I 
could  be  admitted.  He  rather  gruffly  said  "  No,  not  till  nine  o'clock."  Consol- 
ing myself  with  a  chew  of  that  nauseous  weed,  tobacco,  [ugh  !]  I  was  about 
to  consign  the  box  to  my  pocket,  when  the  policeman  held  out  his  hand  for 
it.  I  looked  him  steadily  in  the  face,  and  told  him  that  box  lid  would  be 
opened  precisely  at  nine  o'clock,  and  he  then  could  have  some.  The  man 
laughed,  and  said  he  supposed  I  could  go  into  the  building  then,  though 
strangers  were  not  usually  admitted  before  the  regular  hour.  Entering  a 
large  hall,  the  building  stood  identified  as  the  Guildhall  of  London,  for  at  the 
upper  end,  standing  on  pedestals,  were  two  gigantic  figures,  fancifully  dressed, 
somewhat  in  the  war  costume  of  a  Potawattomie  Indian,  and  known  and  re- 
verenced by  all  Cockneys,  as  Gog  and  Magog,  the  tutelary  deities  of  the 
18 


274  IN  OLD  ENGLAND. 

magnificent  temple,  dedicated  to  the  Prince  of  Peace.  The  church  covers 
more  than  two  acres  of  ground,  and  the  height  of  the  dome,  from  the  base 
to  the  top  of  the  cross,  which  surmounts  it,  is  four  hundred  and  four  feet. 
Repeated  visits  are  needed  to  give  a  person  an  adequate  idea  of  its  vastness. 
The  general  feeling,  among  Americans  especially,  who  have  not  been  accus- 
tomed to  the  larger  kinds  of  public  edifices,  is  one  of  disappointment.  The 
justness  of  the  proportions  of  its  several  parts,  and  the  harmony  observed  in 
its  statues,  and  othei  ornaments,  render  it  difficult  for  the  mind  to  take  in 
the  gigantic  scale  upon  which  every  portion  of  the  building  has  been  con- 
structed. The  width  of  the  dome,  for  instance,  did  not  at  first  seem  to  me, 
more  than  fifty  feet,  though  its  true  diameter  is  more  than  three  times  as 
great.  Protestantism  knows  not  how  to  make  use  of  a  cathedral  when  it  is  built 
ready  to  its  hands.  Instruction  enters  so  largely  into  the  idea  of  protest- 
ant  worship,  that  an  edifice  too  vast  for  the  human  voice  to  fill,  seems  incon- 
gruous with  this  elementary  notion  of  the  reformed  faith.  St.  Paul's,  though 
occasionally  used  in  its  whole  extent,  for  certain  charity  celebrations,  is 
chiefly  dedicated  to  the  perpetuation  of  the  memory  of  the'  illustrious  dead. 
From  the  wall  on  the  right  of  the  usual  entrance,  Dr.  Johnson  looks  down 
upon  the  visitor,  with  more  than  the  usual  severity  of  the  schoolmaster  sage. 
Sir  William  Jones,  the  learned  oriental  scholar,  is  also  justly  honored  by  this 
tribute  to  his  memory.  Howard,  the  philanthropist,  is  kept  in  perpetual  re- 
membrance by  a  statue  by  Bawn.  Nelson,  Collingwood,  Cornwallis,  and 
Howe,  are  great  names  in  English  history,  and  their  monuments  fittingly 
adorn  St.  Paul's.  Less  worthily,  Packenham,  and  Gibbs,  generals  who  lost 
their  lives  at  the  battle  of  New  Orleans,  and  Ross,  who  commanded  in  the 
attack  on  Baltimore,  in  1814,  are  recognized  by  their  countrymen,  as  brave 
men,  whose  names  are  worthy  to  be  handed  down  to  posterity. 

Leaving  St.  Paul's,  with  its  contemptible  admission  fee,  and  its  historical 
associations,  strangely  mixed  together  in  my  mind,  we  next  descend  Ludgate 
Hill,  and  Fleet  street  stretches  its  long  course  before  us.  The  same  cease- 
less tide  of  human  beings  flows  through  its  length,  as  through  Cheapside. 
Leaving  the  Temple  on  the  left,  and  Chancery  Lane,  with  its  numerous  inns 
of  court,  on  the  right,  we  passed  under  an  archway  of  moderate  height,  but 
completely  covering  the  narrow  width  of  the  street. 

Temple  bar,  in  ancient  days  one  of  the  gateways  of  the  city,  is  identified 
in  the  mind  of  every  reader  of  history,  with  a  multitude  of  bloody  sights. 
For  ages,  it  was  customary  to  expose  the  bleeding  heads  of  political  offenders 
upon  poles,  set  upon  the  summit  of  the  gateway.  Here,  rotted  into  dust,  the 
heads  of  Harrison,  of  Vane,  and  of  Scott,  the  brave  and  true-hearted  cham- 
pions of  liberty,  in  the  days  of  Stuart  misrule,  and  tyranny.  Here  the 
ghastly  eyes  of  Sidne)'  and  Russell,  seemed  to  have  shut,  in  the  bloody  sleep 
of  death,  upon  the  hopelessness  of  English  freedom.  On  Temple  bar  were 
exhibited  the  mutilated  quarters  of  the  numerous  victims  of  the  savage  rage 
of  the  infamous  Judge  Jefferies.  Although  the  English  revolution  seemed 
to  soften  the  severity,  or  rather  ferocity,  of  the  English  laws,  in  regard  to 
political  offenders,  yet  it  was  not  till  the  last  hopes  of  the  House  of  Stuart 
wtre  destroyed   b)    the  results  of  the  rebellion  of  1745,  that  this  gateway 


A  NEW  ENGLANDER  275 

city.  Time  out  of  mind,  have  these  e^.gies  guarded  the  noble  room  so  ofteB 
redolent  with  the  odors  of  high  festivity ;  for  here,  the  Lord  Mayor,  Alder- 
men, and  Common  Council  of  London,  are  wont  to  entertain  the  great  digni- 
taries of  the  earth,  whenever  they  choose  to  visit  the  metropolis  of  England. 
Up  and  down  the  long  room,  marched  a  small  detachment  of  the  police,  their 
usual  drill  before  going  out  on  their  term  of  duty.  They  were  a  fine,  manly 
looking  set  of  fellows,  dressed  in  a  uniform  of  blue,  their  coats  with  straight 
collars,  on  one  of  which  is  marked,  in  large  letters,  the  division  to 
which  they  belong,  and  on  the  other,  their  particular  number,  as  thus, 
"  G.  96." 

A  few  steps  from  the  Guildhall,  brings  you  into  Cheapside,  and  for  the  first 
time  you  realize  the  full  tide  of  London  life.  Two  compact  rows  of  foot-passen- 
gers, pursuing  their  different  ways,  line  the  walk  with  a  never-ceasing  crowd 
You  must  walk  neither  faster  nor  slower  than  the  general  motion,  or  you  will 
be  pushed  and  jostled  about,  till  you  are  glad  to  govern  your  pace,  by  that 
of  the  column  in  which  you  happen  to  be.  As  you  gaze  around  you,  the 
sturdier  build  of  the  people,  and  the  greater  uniformity  of  height,  shows  you 
that  it  is  not  an  American  city.  No  tall  Kentuckian,  no  long-sided  Vermon- 
ter,  nor  long-limbed  Carolinian,  breaks  the  general  monotony.  As  a  whole,  the 
English  are  shorter  than  the  Americans,  though  their  superior  stoutness  would, 
probably,  make  their  weight  much  the  same.  You  are  surprised  at  not  seeing 
more  bluff",  portly  John  Bulls.  This  type  of  the  Englishman  is  the  some- 
what rare  exception,  not  by  any  means  the  rule.  Passing  up  Cheapside,  the 
tall  spire  of  Bow  Church,  is  a  prominent  object.  Bow-bells,  are  the  ones 
which  sounded  in  Whittington's  ears,  "  Return,  Whittington,  return,"  beside 
being  the  bells,  within  the  sound  of  which,  all  Londoners  are  born  Cockneys. 
Directly  in  front  of  you,  looms  up  the  massive  dome  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral. 
Cheapside  ends,  and  Ludgate  hill  begins,  on  the  opposite  sides  of  this  vast 
pile. 

As  you  turn  from  Cheapside  into  St.  Paul's  church-yard,  as  the  short  street 
is  called  which  bounds  the  cathedral  on  the  left,  you  see  far  above  you  the 
huge  dome,  which  covers  the  center  of  this  first  of  protestant  cathedrals. 
The  small  open  space  which  surrounds  it,  is  partly  filled  with  old  grave-stones, 
and  monuments,  though  now  long  disused  as  a  place  of  general  sepulture. 
Entering  an  imposing  door-way,  your  romance  receives  a  severe  shock,  in  the 
demand  for  "  tuppence,"  which  some  small  ecclesiastical  official  stands  ready 
to  receive  from  all  comers.  The  church  is  cruciform,  separated  in  the  middle 
by  a  magnificent  dome.  One  end  of  the  choir  is  partitioned  off",  and 
forms  the  church,  within  which,  divine  service  is  performed  daily.  It  is 
within  this  inclosure  that  the  magnificent  organ  stands,  whose  solemn  sounds 
echo  through  the  lofty  building.  The  rest  of  the  cathedral  is  a  vast  extent 
of  marble  flooring.  Not  a  bench  or  chair  breaks  the  monotony  of  the  long 
view,  but  scattered  along  the  walls,  are  busts  and  monuments,  to  the  memory 
of  the  men  who  have  immortalized  themselves  by  their  genius  in  war,  or  lite- 
rature, or  art.  It  strikes  an  American  painfully,  to  see  how  many  of  those, 
whom  England  delights  to  honor,  are  indebted  to  bloody  decks,  or  more 
bloody  battle-fields' ,  for  the  renown  which  gives  them  a  title  to  a  place  in  this 


•276  '  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

exhibited,  for  the  last  time,  a  spectacle  more  fit  for  a  tribe  of  Indian  savages, 
than  for  Christian  England,  justly  proud  of  her  civilization,  her  philosophy, 
and  her  far-reaching  humanity.  We  observed  near  the  gateway  a  chair 
standing  on  the  pavement,  from  which,  every  moment  or  two,  its  occupant 
would  rise,  and  stopping  each  wagon  that  contained  anything  for  sale,  would 
exact  a  penny.  This  is  the  ancient  city  tax,  on  all  vehicles  coming  into  the 
markets  of  London,  and  is  collected  on  every  street  that  leads  into  the  city. 

Temple-bar  separates  Fleet  street  from  the  Strand.  This  noble  street  of 
warehouses  and  stores,  is  considerably  wider  than  the  streets  which  lie  within 
the  city  of  London.  The  city  proper,  it  may  be  well  to  state,  contains  but 
about  two  or  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  or  hardly  more  than  one- 
tenth  part  of  the  whole  population  of  London.  Indeed,  there  are  actually  tewer 
persons  in  the  city  of  London,  than  there  were  a  century  ago,  possibly  even 
two  centuries  ago.  Formerly  there  were  many  more  dwellings  than  stores. 
The  palaces  of  the  noble  and  wealthy  continue,  in  many  cases,  to  this  day ; 
but  commercial  London  needs  them  for  stores,  or  shops,  or  warehouses,  or 
manufacturing  establishments,  and  the  result  has  been,  that  the  population 
of  the  city  has  been  driven  without  the  chartered  limits,  in  order  to  accommo- 
date the  business  of  this  emporium  of  the  world's  industry.  Less  than  a  mile, 
still  further  westward,  the  Strand  terminates  at  Charing- Cross.  An  equestrian 
statue  of  Charles  I,  one  of  the  falsest  of  English  monarchs,  and  whose 
treachery  cost  him  his  head,  adorns  this  spot.  A  large  open  space,  hand- 
somely railed  in,  with  a  fountain  of  water  in  its  midst,  adjoins  Charing-Cross, 
and  is  known  as  Leicester  square.  The  National  Gallery  of  painting,  belong- 
ing to  the  government,  and  open  twice  a  week,  for  the  gratuitous  use  of  the 
public,  occupies  the  whole  front  of  the  square  beyond,  and  altogether  they  form 
a  most  imposing  view. 

Turning  to  the  left  from  Charing-Cross,  a  broad  avenue,  called  Parliament 
Street,  leads,  by  a  moderate  distance,  to  the  new  and  noble  Housf  of  Parlia- 
ment on  the  east  side  of  the  street,  and  the  ever  venerable,  and  grind  Abbey 
of  Westminster  on  the  west.  Here  the  real  magnificence  of  Lov.don  begins 
to  unfold  itself.  Everything  looks  upon  a  grander  scale.  Far  on  for  miles 
to  the  west,  are  broad  streets,  lofty  mansions,  magnificent  abodes  of  luxury, 
refinement,  and  taste,  public  and  private  pleasure  grounds,  all  on  a  scale  of 
splendor  and  extent,  befitting  the  great  capital  of  the  British  nation.  To  an 
American,  no  description  of  a  foreign  church  of  celebrity,  can  give  an  ade- 
quate idea  of  what  it  is  ;  least  of  all,  could  any  amount  of  writing  place 
before  his  mind  the  appearance  of  a  great  historical  edifice,  like  Westminster 
Abbey.  First  of  all,  its  chief  attraction  is  not  its  ecclesiastical  character.  It 
is  as  the  sacred  repository  of  the  ashes  of  the  mighty  dead,  as  the  resting-place 
of  those  who  have  moved  the  world  by  their  statesmanship,  or  by  their 
martial  achievements,  or  by  some  other  exhibition  of  gigantic  genius,  that  it 
takes  such  a  hold  upon  the  imagination  of  the  stranger.  Beneath  its  vast 
roof,  rest  all  that  was  mortal,  in  long  lines  of  proud  sovereigns,  and  more 
worthily,  of  the  sovereigns  of  human  thought.  As  you  enter  the  Abbey  at  its 
south-east  corner,  almost  on  a  level  with  the  street,  you  stand  in  the  renowned 
Poets'  Corner.     Just  over  your  head,  on  the  wall,  is  the  bust  of  Ben  Johnson, 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  277 

with  its  memorable  inscription,  "0,  rare  Ben  Johnson.''  As  your  mind 
runs  over  the  long  list  of  England's  noblest  authors,  }7ou  are  actually  oppressed 
with  the  multitude  of  effigies  and  inscriptions,  bearing  their  names,  every- 
where about  you.  Your  mind  refuses  to  take  in  the  thoughts  that  crowd 
upon  you,  and  it  is  something  of  a  relief,  to  escape  into  other  parts  of  the 
building,  where  less  crowded  memories  pursue  you. 

But  a  small  part  of  the  Abbey  is  devoted  to  the  public  service  of  the 
Almighty  Being  to  whom  it  is  dedicated.  A  few  benches,  placed  longitudi- 
nally in  the  choir,  and  thinly  occupied  with  worshipers,  seat,  on  week  days, 
the  entire  assembly,  who  respond  to  the  very  peculiar  sing-song  tone  in  which 
the  service  is  read,  or  rather  chanted  forth.  The  music  is  striking  enough  to 
an  American  ear,  and  has  something  of  an  unearthly  sound.  As  you  cast 
your  eye  around  the  body  of  the  church,  you  are  struck  with  the  prodigality 
of  the  carved  statues  in  niches,  and  the  variety  of  devices  of  every  kind,  cut 
from  the  solid  stone.  A  grinning  head  of  a  monkey,  an  African  negro,  with 
exaggerated  thickness  of  lips  and  flatness  of  nose,  all  sorts  of  monsters  in  the 
animal  creation,  and  contortions  of  the  human  face,  enough  to  set  up  twenty 
theatrical  clowns,  excite  your  wonder,  and  confuse  your  old  and  familiar 
notions  of  the  house  of  God.  The  eastern  portion  of  the  Abbey,  and  that  last 
erected,  is  known  as  Henry  Vllth's  chapel,  and  was  built  at  the  expense  of 
this  monarch.  For  prodigality  of  embellishment,  and  lavishness  of  expense, 
this  chapel  far  exceeds  anything  of  the  kind  in  England.  Here  was  interred 
this  sagacious  usurper  and  king.  Here  the  proud  maiden  queen,  who  never 
feared  the  face  of  man,  rests  alike  from  her  usefulness  and  her  crime.  A 
few  feet  beyond,  another  and  more  lovely  queen,  Mary  of  Scotland,  found 
repose  from  the  jealousy  and  hatred  of  her  unlovely  cousin.  This  Abbey 
also  contains  the  ashes  of  that  early  lawgiver,  the  wise  and  patriotic  Alfred 
the  Great.  Canning,  and  Pitt,  and  Wilberforce,  have  here  fitting  tributes  to 
their  high  deserts.  Yet  there  is  an  ignoble  crowd  of  patrician  names  cover- 
ing the  walls,  of  whom  history  is  ignorant,  and  whose  only  claim  to  be  num- 
bered with  the  mighty  dead,  is  in  their  titles  and  wealth. 

Emerging  from  the  gloom  of  the  Abbey,  a  few  steps  place  you  at  the 
entrance  of  the  New  House  of  Parliament.  The  theory  of  the  English 
Constitution  regards  law-making  as  a  private  process.  Indeed,  it  is  only  by 
tolerance  that  a  single  stranger  is  ever  admitted,  or  that  any  report  of  its 
proceedings  are  permitted  to  be  published.  There  are  two  ways  in  which 
foreigners  can  gain  admittance,  one  by  obtaining  a  ticket  from  his  country's 
embassador,  and  the  other  by  feeing  a  porter  at  the  door.  Probably  this  last 
is  the  preferable  way,  for  one  to  whom  economy  is  not  of  primary  importance. 
The  Americans  are  peculiarly  a  traveling,  and  a  curious  people.  They  not  only 
go  abroad,  but  they  go  abroad  to  see,  and  very  difficult  of  access  must  a 
place  be,  that  the  Yankee  don't  succeed  in  finding  his  way  into.  The  conse- 
quence is,  our  minister  at  London  has  abundant  calls  for  the  tickets  which 
are  issued  to  him  daily,  during  the  session  of  Parliament.  To  the  praise  of 
Americans  be  it  said,  that  while  none  but  the  higher  classes  of  other  countries 
who  visit  England,  often  apply  for  tickets  of  admission,  no  American,  how- 
ever illiterate,  ever   thinks  of  leaving  London  without  a  sight  of  its  law- 


278  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

givers.  We  happened  once  to  be  at  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Bancroft,  Minister 
to  the  Court  of  St.  James,  when  a  very  tall,  awkward,  and  badly-dressed 
Vermonter,  marched  into  the  room  without  knocking,  and  placing  his  back  to 
the  door,  spoke  out,  "  I  want  a  ticket  to  git  into  the  Gineral  Court."  With 
all  the  incivility  of  his  manner,  there  was  an  intelligent  curiosity  at  bottom, 
which  would  send  him  home  a  wiser  man  for  his  travels. 

The  tickets  with  which  we  entered,  were  proffered  us  by  the  Secretary  of 
Legation.  Passing  through  a  long  passage-way,  our  umbrella  was  demanded 
of  us  by  some  official,  (to  whom  on  our  return,  we  paid  a  shilling  for  its 
custody,)  and  were  then  ushered  into  the  gallery  of  the  House  of  Lords. 
Below,  dimly  seen  by  the  departing  light  of  day,  a  small  number  of  gentle- 
men were  conversing  in  a  pleasant  and  scarcely  audible  tone,  very  courteous 
in  manner,  and  more  resembling  an  after-dinner  discussion  of  gentlemen, 
than  a  legislative  assembly. 

While  we  were  present,  Lord  Brougham  rose  and  said,  he  had  just  been 
informed,  that  a  telegraphic  communication  had  been  received  from  Liver- 
pool, stating  that  the  police  and  military  force  in  Ireland,  had  met  the 
peasantry,  who  were  in  insurrection,  and  had  not  only  refusod  to  engage 
them,  but  had  actually  gone  over  to  their  side,  and  inquired  of  the  ministry 
if  they  had  received  any  government  dispatches  to  that  effect.  Lord  Pal- 
merston,  a  tall,  manly-looking  gentleman,  the  very  ideal  of  Joha  Bull  in  his 
best  phase,  replied  No,  and  that  he  presumed  there  was  no  truth  in  the  rumor, 
as  the  government  had  received  dispatches  from  the  Lord  Lieutenant,  of  a 
later  date  than  that  assigned  to  the  affair  at  Sleivegamon,  which  contained 
no  allusion  to  such  an  occurence.  The  very  quiet  way  in  which  Lord 
Brougham's  news  was  received,  seemed  to  me  but  a  poor  prestige  for  the 
success  of  Smith  O'Brien  and  his  patriotic,  but  precipitate  fellow  conspirators. 
The  face  of  Lord  Brougham  is  certainly  very  ugly.  Punch's  portraits  can 
hardly  be  called  caricatures;  rugged  and  ragged-looking,  his  countenance  is 
not  improved  by  the  funny  way  the  tip  of  his  nose  seems  to  have  been 
chopped  off,  to  shorten  its  disproportionate  length.  His  forehead  is  bony 
and  uneven,  and  his  hair  very  obstinate-looking.  His  figure  is  good  enough, 
but  more  American  in  its  leanness  than  English.  There  is  a  convukive 
twitching  about  his  face,  and  his  body  seems  never  at  rest.  Sitting  behind 
some  lord  who  was  speaking,  he  caught  him  by  the  skirts  of  his  coat,  and 
tried  to  pull  him  down  on  his  seat,  repeating  rapidly,  "  You  have  said 
enough,"  three  or  four  times. 

After  a  time,  a  venerable  looking  man  with  gray  hairs  entered,  whom  it 
did  not  need  the  general  respect  which  was  paid  him,  to  identify  as  the 
Duke  of  Wellington.  The  world  is  full  of  portraits  of  the  man  whom  the 
English  delight  to  call  the  conqueror  of  the  world's  conqueror.  It  needs  no 
such  injustice  to  the  memory  of  Napoleon,  to  do  fitting  honor  to  the  brave 
soldier,  whose  military  capacity  has  so  often  been  vindicated  in  India,  in 
Spain,  and  in  Portugal.  Had  the  Battle  of  Waterloo  never  been  fought, 
Wellington  would  still  remain  the  greatest  English  general  of  the  present  age. 
The  Duke  took  his  seat,  and  leaning  his  head  upon  his  cane,  seemed  to 
listen  carelessly  to  what  was  going  on.     He  presently  rose,  and  uttered  a  few 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  279 

words,  which  were  listened  to  with  marked  respect.     It  was  gratifying  to  see 
a  man  whom  fame  had  extended  to  the  utmost  limits  of  the  world. 

As  a  body  of  gentlemen,  the  House  of  Lords  looked  to  me  much  as  any 
other  body  of  gentlemen  would,  in  whom  natural  peculiarities  had  all  been 
softened  down,  and  almost  obliterated  by  the  inexorable  law  of  present 
necessity,  which  compels  them  to  far  more  solicitude  for  their  order,  than  for 
the  development  of  the  particular  talent  or  genius  with  which  nature  may 
have  endowed  them.  Shortly  after  our  entrance,  and  when  the  more  promi- 
nent lords  had  been  pointed  out  to  me  by  an  American  friend,  who  accom- 
panied us,  two  gentlemen  entered,  and  took  their  seats  by  our  side.  As  the 
twilight  had  commenced,  and  the  chamber  was  rather  dark,  particularly  so 
to  those  who  had  just  entered,  one  of  these  gentlemen  began  asking  me 
who  this  one  and  that  one  was,  as  successive  individuals  addressed  the 
House.  After  replying  for  a  time,  I  became  tired  with  his  importunity,  and 
replied  to  his  further  inquiries,  "  I  don't  know  indeed  sir,  I  am  quite  a 
stranger."  He  answered  in  a  tone,  sufficiently  brusque,  "  You  are  an  Eng- 
lishman, aint  you  V*  "  No  sir."  "  Oh,  I  see,  you  are  a  Scotchman."  "  No 
sir"  (more  emphatic).  "  Why  you  aint  an  Irishman,  are  you  ?"  "  No  sir, 
I  am  not"  (very  short).  "Well,  what  are  you  then?"  This  was  carrying 
the  free  and  easy,  I  thought,  quite  far  enough,  but  it  is  a  good  rule  any- 
where, and  particularly  in  a  foreign  country,  not  to  be  in  a  hurry  to  take 
offense,  so  I  replied  in  a  manner  that  I  thought  would  stop  the  conversation, 
"I  am  an  American  sir."  My  gentleman,  however,  had  no  idea  of  desisting 
yet,  but  followed  up  the  matter  with,  "  Why  I  thought  all  Americans  talked 
through  their  nose,  you  don't."  I  now  lost  my  temper,  and  said,  "Well, 
that  is  much  like  ignorant  persons  with  us,  they  think  all  Londoners  are 
Cockneys,  and  don't  know  how  to  use  the  letter  h,  putting  it  on  where  it 
does  not  belong,  and  leaving  it  off  where  it  does."  After  this  rather  belli- 
gerent style  of  talk  had  lasted  some  time,  the  person  asked  me,  if  I  had  been 
into  the  House  of  Commons.  I  told  him  No.  "Well,"  said  he,  "if  you  will 
give  me  your  address,  I  will  send  you  some  tickets  for  to-morrow."  I  thanked 
him,  but  was  to  leave  in  the  morning  for  Paris.  "  Well  then,  on  my  return 
he  should  be  happy  to  send  them  to  me."  I  did  not  know  when  I  should 
return.  "  Well,  about  when,"  etc.  There  was  no  resisting  his  persevering 
determination  to  oblige,  and  so  I  mentioned  the  probable  length  of  my 
absence.  Six  or  seven  weeks  later,  I  was  surprised  with  a  note,  in  a  strange 
hand,  which,  on  opening,  I  found  to  contain  two  tickets  of  admission  to  the 
Commons,  with  a  polite  assurance  that  Mr.  W.,  would  be  happy  to  send 
myself  and  friends,  all  the  tickets  we  might  need,  during  our  stay  in  London. 
I  mention  this  fact  as  peculiarly  illustrating  a  certain  roughness  in  the  Eng- 
lish character,  which  is  most  repulsive  to  an  American,  and  which,  perhaps, 
is  most  offensive  at  the  very  moment  the  Englishman  is  meditating  some 
kindness. 

Leaving  the  Parliament  House,  you  pass  to  the  right  of  the  inclosure 
within  which  Westminster  Abbey  stands,  and  making  a  turn  or  two,  you  en- 
ter a  long  avenue,  one  side  of  which  is  occupied  by  dwellings,  and  the  other, 
lying  open  to  St.  James's  Park.     On  the  north  side  of  this  beautiful  piece  of 


280  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

ground,  stands  the  Palace  of  St.  James,  but  which  is  used  only  on  state  oc- 
casions, as  the  reception  of  embassadors,  public  audiences,  etc.  Bucking- 
ham Palace,  which  faces  the  Park  on  the  west,  is  the  private  residence  of  the 
Queen,  and  is  never  used  for  such  purposes.  The  first-named  palace,  is  a 
plain  structure  of  brick,  and  has  little  about  it  to  attract  or  gratify  the  curi- 
osity of  a  stranger.  Buckingham  Palace,  though  subject  to  much  criticism, 
as  all  the  architectural  efforts  of  George  the  Fourth  seem  to  be,  is  really  an 
imposing  structure.  Its  situation  is  beautiful,  fronting  a  sloping  lawn,  which 
leads  down  to  a  flower-environed  body  of  water,  which  occupies  the  center 
of  the  Park.  Venerable  trees,  and  the  greenest  grass  give  a  peculiarly 
beautiful  look  to  the  appendage  to  the  two  London  palaces  of  the  monarchs 
of  England. 

From  Buckingham  Palace,  you  pass  through  a  small  irregular-shaped  piece 
of  ground,  called  the  Green  Park,  and  crossing  Piccadilly,  you  stand  at  the 
entrance  of  Hyde  Park.  A  noble  gateway,  surmounted  by  a  colossal  eques- 
trian statue  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  forms  the  entrance  to  the  Park. 
Looking  in,  you  see  a  huge,  brazen,  reclining  statue  of  Achilles,  perfectly 
naked,  also  erected  in  honor  of  the  Iron  Duke.  This  statue  was  cast  at  the 
expense  of  the  ladies  of  England,  in  honor  of  the  great  commander,  from 
cannon  captured  by  him  in  his  Spanish  campaigns.  Close  by  the  gateway, 
stands  Apsley  house,  a  noble  edifice,  purchased  by  the  British  Government, 
and  presented  to  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  after  his  success  at  Waterloo.  The 
side  of  the  Palace  facing  the  Park,  has  most  of  its  windows  boarded  up, 
which  gives  it  a  very  odd  look.  In  the  riots,  which  preceded  the  passage 
of  the  reform  bill,  the  mob  undertook  to  convince  the  Duke  of  the  folly  of 
his  opposition  to  their  favorite  measure,  by  smashing  his  window-glass.  In 
great  wrath,  the  Duke  swore  the  damage  should  never  be  repaired,  till  the 
nation  came  to  its  senses,  and  made  good  the  injury  which  had  been  done 
him.  While  standing  at  Hyde  Park  corner,  an  old  gentleman,  who  was  the 
gate-keeper,  proffered  me  a  chair,  and  began  to  explain  to  me  whose  the 
several  equipages  were,  as  they  rolled  rapidly  by.  The  Duchess  of  Kent, 
the  mother  of  the  Queen,  of  whom,  by  the  way,  the  English  speak  very 
highly,  was  pointed  out  to  me — the  Queen  Dowager  Adelaide,  occupying 
the  same  carriage,  and  looking  like  two  comfortable,  good-natured  ladies  who 
had  taken  the  world  easily;  the  Duchess  of  Sutherland,  a  magnificent  queen- 
like beauty,  a  daughter  of  Lord  Grosvenor,  the  very  ideal  of  aristocratic 
blood;  the  Duke  of  Cambridge,  the  youngest  son  of  George  the  Third,  a  jolly- 
looking  compound  of  a  bon-vivant,  and  a  polar  bear ;  one  of  the  Rothschilds, 
a  portly  man  of  fifty-five,  or  thereabouts,  with  more  of  a  German  than  a 
Jewish  face,  and  a  multitude  of  other  London  notabilities.  It  was  amusing, 
as  illustrating  the  snobbish  tendency  of  the  humbler  classes,  in  England,  to 
hear  his  comments,  whenever  a  stylish  carriage  passed  by,  on  whose  panel  no 
coronet  blazed:  "That  is  nobody;"  "That's  some  tallow-chandler,  who's 
got  rich,  and  is  trying  to  cut  a  swell,"  and  so  on,  with  deprecatory  remarks 
about  every  person  who  was  indebted  to  his  own  talent  for  his  rise  in  the 
world,  and  not,  as  Lord  Thurlow  once  happily  expressed  it,  "to  being  the 
accident  of  an  accident." 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  281 

The  Duke  of  Wellington  was  accused  of  being  quite  as  close  a  man  with  his 
money  as  is  consistent  with  the  reputation  heroic.  The  gate-keeper,  who  is 
allowed  to  sell  milk,  told  me,  with  some  chagrin,  as  I  thought,  that  the  Duke 
bought  but  a  pint  of  milk  daily,  for  the  consumption  of  all  Apsley-house. 
He  also  took  me  into  a  little  inclosure,  adjoining  his  lodge,  where,  among  a 
few  flowers  and  vegetables,  stood  a  miserable  tobacco  plant,  and  wanted  me, 
as  an  American,  and  of  course  familiar  with  the  whole  subject,  to  tell  him 
why  it  did  not  flourish.  While  I  was  endeavoring  to  explain  to  him,  the  kind 
of  soil  and  cultivation  our  tobacco-growers  selected,  I  was  surprised  to  see 
him  dart  from  my  side,  and  bow  repeatedly,  and  very  humbly,  to  a  small 
boy,  about  twelve  years  old,  who  was  in  the  charge  of  a  confidential  servant. 
''How  is  my  Lord,  and  how  is  my  Lady,  your  Lordship's  mother?"  "and 
will  your  Lordship  do  me  the  honor,"  etc.,  and  "  will  your  Lordship  be 
pleased,"  etc.  etc.,  repeated  usque  ad  nauseam.  The  boy  seemed  a  well-be- 
haved lad  enough,  and  his  manners  struck  me  as  being  particularly  good  for 
an  age  when  lads  generally  are  perfectly  unbearable.  After  his  little  Lord- 
ship had  left,  the  man  returned,  and  began  to  apologize  for  having  left  me  in 
the  haste  he  did,  but  "it  was  Lord  Coventry."  "Well,  what  of  it?" 
"  Why  he  will  have  sixty  thousand  pounds  a  year,  when  he  comes  of  age." 
"  I  don't  see  why  you  should  reverse  the  order  of  nature,  even  if  he  is  a 
Lord,  and  rich,  to  boot.  A  lad  like  that,  if  properly  instructed,  would  feel  it 
to  be  his  business  to  be  respectful  to  the  aged,  and  an  old  man  like  you, 
ought  to  be  ashamed  of  teaching  him  a  different  lesson."  But  the  flunky 
spirit  was  too  strong  in  him  to  be  convinced,  and  I  allowed  him  to  terminate 
the  argument,  with  "  Well,  that  is  some  of  your  d — d  republican  nonsense." 
On  leaving,  I  offered  the  old  fellow  a  shilling  or  two,  for  his  civility,  but  he 
drew  himself  up,  with  the  remark,  "  I  don't  take  money  for  such  things,  sir." 
Apologizing  for  my  mistake,  I  told  him  that  in  America  we  had  the  impres- 
sion that  such  things  were  looked  for  in  England.  "  Not  by  me,  sir,"  he  re- 
plied, "I  am  the  Lodge  Keeper."  So  I  parted  with  the  Lodge  Keeper,  and 
to  this  day  remain  ignorant  of  the  precise  social  importance  of  the  officer, 
which  made  it  improper  for  him  to  receive  a  gratuity  from  one  he  had 
obliged. 

Turning  into  Hyde  Park,  you  see  a  large  pleasure-ground,  where  every- 
body who  keeps  a  carriage,  in  London,  is  in  the  habit  of  taking  an  airing,  be- 
tween the  hours  of  four  and  six  in  the  afternoon.  At  these  hours  you  see  a 
sight  which  can  be  seen  nowhere  else  in  the  world.  In  the  height  of  what 
is  called  the  season,  that  is,  when  all  the  rank  and  fashion  of  the  country 
assemble  in  London — the  sight  is  not,  properly,  the  show  of  London,  but  of 
all  England,  to  say  nothing  of  Scotland  and  Ireland.  The  horses  are,  almost 
invariably,  good,  many  superior  ones,  and  some,  in  beauty,  unequaled  in  the 
world.  They  are  trained  to  a  longer  reach  in  their  step,  by  several  inches, 
than  with  us,  which  adds  much  grace  to  their  motion  when  going,  as  they 
usually  do,  at  a  slow  pace.  The  carriages  seem  heavy,  to  an  American  eye, 
but  they  are  very  perfectly  finished,  and  as  easy  as  a  cradle.  The  livery,  or 
fanciful  costume,  in  which  the  coachman  and  footman  are  dressed,  is  gener- 
ally in  more  subdued  taste,  than  I  had  anticipated.     Occasionally,  some 


282  A  NEW  ENGLAJNDER 

gorgeously  dressed  footman  will  attract  your  eye,  but  as  my  friend  the  Lodge 
Keeper  would  say,  "  they  are  nobodies."  I  have  seen  some  very  good  trot- 
ting ill  England,  but  that  is  not  the  favorite  pace.  Racing  is  everything 
there,  as  hunting  is  the  fashionable  amusement  with  gentlemen,  while  hunt- 
ing, being  little  practiced  with  us,  and  everybody  riding,  fast  trotting  becomes 
the  desirable  thing  in  a  horse.  I  am  sure  I  have  seen  more  fast  trotters,  in 
one  day,  on  the  Third  Avenue,  or  on  the  Bloomingdale  road,  in  New  York, 
than  I  saw  during  my  four  months'  residence  in  London. 

Hundreds,  and  probably,  thousands  of  thoroughly  appointed  carriages,  roll, 
every  pleasant  day,  over  the  smooth  and  hard  paths  of  the  Park.  Horsemen, 
generally  mounted  on  fine  blood  animals,  and  followed  by  trig-looking  serv- 
ants, are  seen'  on  all  the  walks!  They  ride  with  much  shorter  stirrups  than 
we,  which  gives  them  a  very  awkward  appearance.  Such  a  mode,  however, 
must  be  much  safer  in  hunting,  where  desperate  leaps  are  often  to  be  taken, 
and  where  it  is  necessary,  frequently,  to  rise  in  one's  stirrups.  The  military, 
however,  ride  in  our  usual  mode,  though  it  would  seem  to  be  necessary,  in 
actual  conflict,  for  cavalry  to  feel  their  feet,  in  order  to  strike  an  effective 
blow.  Young  unmarried  men,  however,  use,  for  their  ordinary  locomotion, 
cabs,  a  very  ugly-looking  contrivance,  for  any  decent  man  to  double  himself 
into,  as  must  be  done  to  effect  an  entrance.  One  of  the  finest  horses  I  saw 
in  London,  was  a  cab-horse  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington's,  driven  by  himself ; 
a  nobler  animal  it  would  be  impossible  to  conceive  of.  Young  lads,  mounted 
on  spirited  ponies,  course  up  and  down,  and  early  learn  to  sit  a  horse,  not  to 
straddle  him,  like  a  cleft  stick,  nor  to  be  carried,  like  a  bundle  of  wool.  Scat- 
tered over  the  Park,  especially  on  Sundays,  are  crowds  of  well-dressed 
pedestrians,  both  gentlemen  and  ladies. 

Who  would  think,  in  viewing  this  exhibition  of  wealth,  refinement,  and 
high  social  advantages,  that  a  five  minutes'  walk  would  place  you  amid  scenes 
of  squalid  wretchedness,  of  low  vice,  and  brutal  crime,  unsurpassed  by  the 
worst  sight  that  the  worst  part  of  Africa  could  present  ?  Such,  however,  is 
the  truth,  and  the  London  of  the  refined,  and  the  London  of  the  miserable, 
are  two  cities  which  neither  know  or  are  influenced  by  one  another.  But  at 
present,  we  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  more  obscure  parts  of  London. 
Evening  has  now  arrived,  and  the  Park  is  deserted. 

As  you  retrace  your  steps,  you  are  conscious  of  weariness,  and  hailing 
the  first  omnibus  you  see,  you  plump  yourself  down  upon  the  first  unoccu- 
pied seat,  and  begin  to  look  around  you.  Obviously,  you  say  to  yourself, 
these  vehicles  won't  compare  with  our  own.  They  are  not  so  neat,  they 
have  even  a  filthy  look.  Instead  of  the  strap  passing  over  the  leg  of  the 
driver,  a  pull  on  which,  will  stop  the  carriage,  and  turn  it  to  either  curb,  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  pulls  you  give,  you  see  there  a  man  stationed  on 
the  foot-board,  whose  whole  business  is  to  let  in  and  let  out  the  various 
people  who  may  ride  in  his  "  bus."  You  say  at  once,  labor  can't  be  in  any 
great  demand  here,  when  the  work  which  one  man  performs  in  America,  re- 
quires two  in  London.  Should  the  weather  be  rainy,  and  what  day  in  Lon- 
don is  secure  against  rain  ?  you  will  be  amused  to  see  with  what  cold-blooded 
selfishness  the  ladies  who  seek  an  entrance  into  an  omnibus  filled  with  gentle* 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  283 

men,  are  denied  an  inside  seat,  by  the  ungallant  beings  in  male  habiliment*, 
who  have  already  monopolized  all  the  seats.  "  First  come,  first  served,"  ap- 
pears to  be  the  motto  of  John  Bull,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  any  amount 
of  beauty,  or  any  degree  of  decrepitude,  would  be  sufficient  to  induce  most 
Englishmen  to  vacate  a  comfortable  inside  seat,  on  a  rainy  day,  for  their  ac- 
commodation. The  pace  at  which  the  horses  move,  is  considerably  slower 
than  with  us.  The  idea  of  a  racing  omnibus,  about  which  constant  com- 
plaints may  be  found  in  the  New  York  papers,  would  be  here  a  perfect  ab- 
surdity. Should  you  mount  to  the  outside,  and  be  possessed  of  the  ordinary 
curiosity  of  an  American,  you  will  meet  with  a  most  stolid  being  for  a  driver, 
until  you  express  some  curiosity  as  to  the  quality  of  the  beer  sold  along  the 
road  you  are  passing.  It  will  be  but  a  short  time  before  your  driver  holds 
up  near  some  conspicuous  beer  shop,  and  intimates  that  the  stuff  sold  there 
"is  not  swipes  by  no  means."  Lubricating  his  inner  man  seems  to  oil  the 
hinges  of  his  tongue,  and  very  often,  the  stranger  will  find  it  to  his  account. 
in  thus  ministering  to  the,  apparently,  only  vivifying  liquid  that  can  touch 
the  seat  of  sensibility  in  the  driver  of  a  London  omnibus. 


CHAPTER   II. 

Education — Smithfield  Drovers— Sagacity  of  their  Dogs— British  Museum— the  Fine  Arts- 
Old  Bailey— Brutality  of  a  Judge— Trial  of  a  Chartist—Thames'  Tunnel— the  Tower- 
London  Low  Life — Visit  to  a  den  of  Thieves — Hampton  Court — Excursion  to  the  Country 
—Lord  Mayor  of  London— University  of  Oxford— English  Homes— Rural  Life— Agricul- 
ture— Manufactures — Commerce. 

One  of  the  very  peculiar  sights  which  most  frequently  attracts  the  atten- 
tion of  the  traveler,  from  our  side  of  the  water,  is  the  number  of  bare-headed 
boys,  in  yellow  breeches,  and  short  upper  garments,  of  the  very  coarsest 
fabrics,  which  seem  everywhere  in  sight,  especially  in  Cheapside  and  Fleet 
street.  They  are  the  scholars  of  the  famous  Christ  Church  Hospital,  a  pub- 
lic'school,  endowed  by  Edward  the  Sixth,  out  of  the  spoils  taken  by  his 
father  from  the  supposed  monasteries  of  the  Romish  faith.  Hugh  Latimer, 
the  honest  and  straight-forward  reformer,  witnessing  the  spoliations  of  the 
old  church,  and  dreading  lest  all  the  wealth  which  had  been  devoted  by  sin- 
cere, though  misguided  men,  to  sacred  purposes,  should  be  absorbed  by  the 
selfish  and  needy  hangers-on  of  the  court,  ventured  to  preach  a  sermon  be- 
fore the  youthful  monarch,  in  which  he  insisted,  in  the  boldest  language,  that 
which  had  once  been  consecrated  to  sacred  uses,  could  not  be  perverted  to 
secular  ones,  and  mentioned,  especially,  the  urgent  need  there  was  for  some 
school,  for  the  gentle  nurture  of  the  children  of  the  citizens  of  London.  This 
sermon  led  to  the  endowment  of  this  noble  school,  in  which,  hundreds  of 
poor  boys,  who  would  otherwise  have  remained  unnurtured,  have  received 
an  education,  which  has  made  them  useful,  and  sometimes,  eminent  men. 
Coleridge,  Chas.  Lamb,  and  Leigh  Hunt,  to  say  nothing  of  the  numerous 
other  men  of  less  eminence,  who  have  done  honor  to  this   foundation,  arc 


284  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

indebted  to  Christ  Church  Hospital,  for  the  gratuitous  education  which  made 
them  what  they  were.  The  mode  in  which  the  children  of  the  English 
people  are  educated,  is  a  fine  illustration  of  the  way  in  which  a  thousand  re- 
sults are  effected  there,  by  traditionary  institutions,  which  are  accomplished 
more  perfectly  with  us,  by  a  general  law. 

Of  course,  in  a  community  over-populated  like  England,  there  are  innu- 
merable schools  for  all  who  are  willing  to  pay  for  the  instruction  of  their 
children.  Then  there  are  large  institutions,  like  the  Merchant-Tailors'  School, 
and  others,  where  boys  are  educated  very  thoroughly,  and  at  no  expense  to 
their  parents.  Innumerable  charity  schools,  either  endowed  by  individuals 
or  supported  by  religious  and  moral  associations  are  frequent.  One  of  the 
common  sights  of  London,  of  a  Sunday  morning,  is  the  number  of  such  schools, 
all  dressed  out  in  quaint  uniform,  and  looking  like  the  picture  of  Goody-two- 
shoes,  on  the  way  to  school.  Of  late  years,  an  association  of  gentlemen,  with 
Lord  Ashley  at  their  head,  have  established,  what,  with  the  true  English 
hatred  of  cant,  are  called  "  Ragged  Schools."  And  ragged,  they  well  may 
be  called,  human  wretchedness  never  made  a  broader  mark  upon  the  face  of 
man  than  you  may  witness  upon  the  countenances  of  these  children  of  the 
dishonest,  thieving,  loafering  population  of  London.  With  all  the  particular 
good  these  schools  may  effect,  the  instruction  they  can  impart  is  but  a  drop 
in  the  bucket  compared  with  the  necessities  of  the  case.  London  has  a  popu- 
lation of  two  millions  of  people  ;  of  this  number,  one-fifth  are  between  the 
ages  of  four  and  sixteen,  and  should,  according  to  our  Yankee  notions,  be 
under  instruction.  To  accommodate  these  four  hundred  thousand  children  with 
the  means  of  education,  at  least  eight  thousand  teachers  are  needed,  with, 
say,  one  thousand  large  public  school-houses,  each  for  the  accommodation  of 
four  hundred  pupils,  divided  into  eight  schools.  What  can  the  fifty  ragged 
schools  accomplish  for  this  vast  metropolis.  The  difficulty,  in  devising  a  sys- 
tem of  schools  for  the  instruction  of  all,  does  not  spring  from  a  want  of  philan- 
thropy in  the  minds  of  Englishmen,  or  from  any  want  of  conviction  of  its 
necessity  and  utility.  Upon  the  Established  Church  must  rest  the  reproach 
and  the  shame  of  the  imperfect,  or  totally  neglected  education  of  the  rising 
generation.  Give  to  her  the  control  of  the  schools,  let  her  clergy  be  their 
official  visitors  and  superintendents,  and  let  her  theology  be  taught  in  them, 
and  England  might  speedily  have  a  common-school  system  rivaling  that  of 
Massachusetts  or  Prussia.  But  this  is  impracticable.  The  dissenters  of 
various  names,  including  the  Methodists  and  the  Roman  Catholics,  are  nearly, 
if  not  quite,  equal  in  number  to  the  members  of  the  Establishment.  The 
Unitarian  will  not  permit  his  children  to  be  taught  the  doctrine  of  the  Divi- 
nity of  our  Savior,  which  he  himself  disbelieves.  The  Independent  refuses 
to  have  his  children  instructed  in  the  jure  divino  right  of  Episcopacy,  or  in  the 
justice  of  a  State  religion.  The  Baptist  and  Methodist  have  each  their  objec- 
tion, and  so  on  through  the  long  category  of  dissent.  What  then  can  be 
done  ?  Episcopacy  is  horror-struck  at  what  she  calls  a  "  Godless  education," 
and  prefers  the  present  ignorance  to  continue  forever  rather  than  adopt  oui 
unsectarian  usage. 

There  are  men,  however,  within  the  pale  of  the  church,  who  possess  more 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  285 

enlarged  views  of  the  duty  of  the  State,  and  who  are  laboring  efficiently,  in 
union  with  Dissenters,  to  induce  the  government  to  introduce  the  only  practi- 
cable system  of  common  schools,  one  in  which  the  Bible  shall  be  read,  but  no 
dogmatic  theology  be  taught.  England  has  evidently  reached  a  crisis  in  her 
destiny.  Hereafter  she  is  to  be,  not  what  her  aristocracy  may  wish,  not  even 
what  her  commercial  or  manufacturing  lords  may  desire,  but  just  that,  and  no 
more,  than  the  character  of  the  great  mass  of  her  people  may  be. 

Every  body  has  heard  of  Smithfield  :  in  the  minds  of  some  it  is  associated 
with  the  fagot  and  stake,  with  heroic  martyrdom  for  liberty  and  truth,  and 
as  the  great  confessional  of  protestant  England.  Others,  in  a  more  mundane 
spirit,  rejoice  over  Smithfield,  as  the  great  center,  from  which  noble  barons 
of  beef,  and  the  juiciest  of  steaks,  radiate  into  every  kitchen  of  London. 
Beginning  near  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  two  great  thoroughfares,  diverging  but 
slightly,  penetrate  London  to  the  westward  ;  the  most  northerly  line  is  com- 
posed, for  a  good  part  of  its  length,  of  the  broad  street  known  as  Holborn. 
This  street,  in  position  and  character,  is,  to  the  line  made  up  of  Fleet-street  and 
the  Strand,  very  much  what  the  Bowery  in  New  York  is  to  Broadway. 
Turning  to  the  right,  from  the  junction  of  Newgate-street  with  Holborn,  you 
ascend  a  steep  hill,  and  proceeding  a  few  rods,  you  find  yourself  in  the  midst 
of  a  large  irregular  opening,  apparently  of  ten  to  a  dozen  acres  in  extent,  sur- 
rounded with  stores,  taverns,  and  dwellings,  and  completely  filled  with  cattle- 
pens.  This  is  Smithfield,  and  here  the  animals  which  are  to  find  rest  in  the 
stomach  of  alderman  or  vagabond,  lord  or  lout,  are  driven  for  the  inspection 
of  the  butcher,  and  for  purchase.  Early  in  the  morning,  a  stranger,  living  in 
the  vicinity  of  any  of  the  great  thoroughfares  which  terminate  here,  will  be 
awakened  by  the  bellowing  of  oxen,  the  lowing  of  cows,  and  the  bleating  of 
sheep.  He  seems  to  be  in  the  midst  of  some  vast  farm-yard,  instead  of  in  the 
heart  of  the  most  populous  city  in  the  world.  It  is  well  worth  the  traveler's 
while  to  leave  his  bed  at  early  dawn,  and  watch  the  progress  of  the  droves 
through  the  narrow  street.  The  sheep,  in  particular,  often  amused  me.  A 
flock  of  two  or  three  hundred,  driven  by  a  single  shepherd,  assisted  by  a 
small  dog,  sufficed  to  guide  this  most  wayward  of  all  animals  through  the 
crowded  streets.  The  dog,  assisted  by  an  encouraging  word  from  his  mas- 
ter, would  spring  on  the  back  of  one  of  the  flock,  and  race  from  back  to  back, 
never  touching  the  ground  till  he  reached  the  offending  animal,  when  a  sin- 
gle pull  by  the  ear  restores  the  vagrant  sheep  to  his  proper  place.  I  once 
saw  two  large  flocks  meet  at  the  corners  of  two  streets,  and  going  at  right 
angles  to  each  other.  It  was  wonderful  to  see  the  tact  and  intelligence  of 
the  two  little  colley  dogs.  Twenty  men  could  not  have  done  what  these  lit- 
tle creatures  did,  in  restoring  order.  The  flocks  had  got  into  an  inextricable 
confusion,  but  a  pull  by  the  wool,  or  the  ear,  done  with  great  rapidity,  the 
dogs  jumping  into  the  midst  of  the  flock,  and  selecting  all  stragglers  which 
had  got  into  the  wrong  road,  in  two  minutes,  had  the  sheep  all  separated, 
and  jogging  on  again  toward  Smithfield. 

One  of  these  shepherds  told  me,  that  you  might  mix  up  a  thousand  sheep, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  his  dog  would  have  the  five  hundred  belonging  to  his 
master  all  safe  by  themselves.    Still,  it  is  unsafe  to  have  the  streets  of  a  greaf 


286  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

city  periodically  filled  with  cattle.  Though  wonderfully  few  accidents  occur, 
there  necessarily  must  be  great  anxiety  on  the  part  of  parents,  who  live  on 
the  lines  of  travel  used  by  the  drovers,  lest  their  children  should  suffer  from 
the  pranks  sometimes  cut  up  by  an  enraged  ox,  or  over-driven  cow.  One 
part  of  Smithfield  is  devoted  to  the  sale  of  donkeys,  two  days  in  the  week,  and 
an  amusing  sight  it  is.  Such  a  pack  of  very  sharp-looking  vagabonds,  with 
their  eye-teeth  cut  ever  since  they  were  babies,  if,  indeed,  such  hard-looking 
customers  ever  had  a  babyhood,  I  never  saw.  Cutting  and  .hauling  at  the 
bridle  of  some  meek  little  dwarf,  and  making  their  big  cudgels  resound  on 
their  hollow  sides,  they  will  trot  their  animals  up  and  down  the  short  wait 
devoted  to  this  purpose,  and  tell  more  lies  about  him  than  they  utter  sen- 
tences. His  price  is  eighteen  shillings,  and  he  is  only  selling  him  because  he 
is  going  into  the  draying  business,  and  will  need  a  larger  animal ;  or  he  is 
disposing  of  him,  because  the  child  for  whose  use  he  was  kept,  has  recently 
died  ;  or  the  friend,  who  owned  him,  has  gone  to  America.  No  lie  that  will 
serve  his  turn  ever  comes  amiss.  I  never  fully  realized  the  fact,  that  home- 
less boys,  in  large  cities,  neverhave  a  childhood,  till  I  saw  these  donkey  mer- 
chants. It  was  perfectly  frightful  to  see  lads  from  twelve  to  twenty  years  old. 
with  all  the  cunning,  avarice,  and  brutality  of  a  rogue  in  grain  pictured  out  in 
their  countenances.  The  prices  seemed  to  range  from  ten  shillings  up  to  a 
guinea;  in  one  instance,  thirty-five  shillings  were  paid.  They  were,  for  the  most 
part,  a  galled  and  over-worked  lot  of  beasts;  though  many  of  them  looked  as  if  a 
month's  rest  and  plenty  to  eat  would  put  them  in  good  condition.  An  im- 
mense number  of  donkeys  are  used  in  England.  Cheap  in  price,  and  very 
hardy,  they  cost  but  little  in  shelter  and  food.  Half  a  dozen  donkeys  will 
thrive  in  a  pasture  where  a  horse  would  starve.  They  can  draw  enormous 
loads.  It  is  not  an  infrequent  sight,  to  see,  in  London,  a  wagon  filled  with 
vegetables,  and  surmounted  with  two  and  three  men  or  women,  beside  a 
child  or  two.  Almost  all  the  vegetable  carts  are  drawn  by  them.  In  places 
of  popular  resort,  in  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  you  will  see  scores  of  them 
bridled  and  saddled,  and  a  ride  on  a  donkey  is  a  regular  part  of  the  day's 
programme,  in  the  pic-nic  excursions  of  the  cit  to  Greenwich,  Richmond,  and 
Hampton- Court.  A  superior  kind  of  animal  is  kept  by  gentlemen  for  their 
children,  while  too  young  to  be  trusted  with  a  horse.  Why  they  are  not 
more  used  in  this  country  it  would  be  difficult  to  say.  They  can  be  kept  at 
less  than  a  quarter  of  the  cost  of  a  horse,  are  very  hardy,  and  will  do  an  im- 
mense deal  of  work.  Many  a  poor  farmer,  or  mechanic,  with  a  few  acres  of 
land,  who  can't  afford  a  horse,  would  be  glad  to  have  a  donkey.  There  is,  I 
know,  a  prejudice  against  them,  as  being  vicious ;  but,  abused,  as  they  gene- 
rally are,  by  their  owners,  and  stoned  by  every  idle  boy,  it  would  be  strange 
if  they  did  not  use  their  heels  freely,  when  occasion  demands.  But  when 
treated  kindly,  and  petted  by  the  children,  as  sometimes  happens,  I  was 
repeatedly  assured,  they  were  kind  and  docile,  and  capable  of  a  warm 
attachment  to  those  who  feed  them. 

A  short  distance  north-west  of  Smithfield,  I  noticed  a  massive  stone  gate- 
way crossing  the  rond,  which  was  the  most  venerable-looking  object  1  had 
vei  seen  in  England.      Entering  the  tower,  the  door  of  which  stood  invitingly 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  287 

open,  I  found  this  was  all  that  was  left  of  the  grand  monastic  establishment 
of  the  order  of  Knight  Templars  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem.  Not  only  had  the 
vast  establishment  which  once  stood  here  disappeared,  but  the  very  order 
itself  had  become  extinct.  It  was  in  the  rooms  over  this  gatehouse  that  the 
Gentleman's  Magazine  was  printed  and  published  during  the  early  days  of 
Dr.  Johnson's  literary  career,  when  he  got  an  insufficient  and  precarious  liv- 
ing by  contributing  to  its  pages.  The  tap  room  remains  in  the  same  state  it 
was  in,  when  Johnson  sat  behind  a  small  screen  to  hide  his  rags  fMom  the 
publisher,  which  he  was  too  proud  to  exhibit.  Passing  through  a  labyrinth 
of  streets,  in  the  attempt  to  save  distance  by  a  short  cut,  and  actually  travers- 
ing about  twice  the  space  I  needed  to  have  done,  I  found  myself  in  Great  Rus- 
sell-street, and  in  front  of  a  building  before  which  a  sentinel  was  posted. 
This  sight  always  indicates  that  the  place  belongs  to  the  government.  Enter- 
ing the  vestibule,  I  found  myself  in  the  British  Museum.  It  is  not  easy  for 
an  American,  with  his  strict  notions  of  economy  in  the  administration  of 
government,  to  comprehend  the  magnificent  scale  on  which  England  accom- 
plishes any  favorite  project  in  art  or  science.  The  library,  alone,  contains 
about  three  quarters  of  a  million  volumes  :  the  collections  in  science  are  vast. 
All  the  fruits  of  Layard's  researches  in  Nineveh,  which  brought  to  light  the 
history,  the  science,  and  the  art  of  ancient  Assyria,  in  the  days  of  her  pride, 
are  there.  Antiquities  from  Egypt,  Greece,  Rome,  and  other  countries,  fill 
up  many  large  halls.  The  head  of  Memnon,  the  sarcophagus  of  Pharaoh, 
the  gigantic  skeleton  dug  up  in  Siberia,  will  serve  to  indicate  the  nature  of 
this  vast  store-house  for  the  gratification  of  an  intelligent  curiosity. 

All  these  treasures  are  thrown  open  gratuitously,  for  the  inspection  and 
mstruction  of  the  public.  Not  one  day,  nor  many  days,  will  suffice  to  go  over 
even  the  catalogue  of  these  wonders.  Selecting  some  single  subject  which  inte- 
rests you,  and,  confining  yourself  to  the  hall  devoted  to  its  illustration,  you 
may,  from  what  is  before  you,  attain  a  respectable  acquaintance  with- the  sub- 
ject. A  better  knowledge  of  ancient  Assyria  may  be  got  from  the  sculptures 
brought  from  Nineveh,  than  could  possibly  be  got  by  the  ordinary  traveler 
in  Assyria  itself.  Leaving  the  museum,  we  directed  our  steps  to  the  National 
Gallery,  in  Trafalgar-square.  The  building  itself  has  been  much  criticised 
for  its  want  of  height,  and  for  the  disproportionate  size  of  the  colonnade  which 
occupies  its  front.  Its  position,  fronting  a  large  square,  in  the  midst  of 
which  a  lofty  column  to  Nelson,  is  erected,  and  facing  the  termination  of  the 
Strand,  at  Charing- Cross,  is  a  noble  one.  The  gallery  is  open  but  two  days 
in  the  week  to  the  public,  its  use  for  the  other  four  days  being  reserved  for 
artists.  To  say,  to  most  Americans,  that  a  single  painting,  perhaps,  of  small 
dimensions,  has  cost  fifty  thousand  dollars,  would  make  them  open  their  eyes 
widely.  But  there  are,  probably,  hundreds  of  paintings  in  Europe,  for  any 
one  of  which,  fifty  thousand  dollars  would  be  refused. 

In  no  other  respect  is  there  so  wide  a  contrast  between  England  and  our 
own  country,  as  in  this  matter  of  the  fine  arts.  Here,  the  residence  of  a  man  of 
wealth  rarely  exhibits  any  patronage  of  the  arts  beyond  a  few  daguerreotypes, 
and  a  yard  or  two  of  canvas,  covered  with  p  >rt raits  of  himself  and  his 
tiiiniiy.       Occasionally,    am!    only   of  late   years,     ;-i-nilemen  who    have    livid 


288  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

abroad,  bring  home,  on  their  return,  a  few  paintings  of  value.  In  England, 
on  the  contrary,  there  is  hardly  a  gentleman's  house  in  which  productions  of 
eminent  painters  may  not  be  found,  while  thousands  of  houses  are  embellished 
by  them  with  a  profusion,  and  at  an  expense,  of  which  it  is  difficult  for  us  to 
conceive.  The  influence  of  the  arts,  in  refining  the  general  taste,  was  hardly 
appreciable,  while  there  was  no  public  collection  of  paintings,  and  the  govern- 
ment erected  this  building,  and  purchased  works  of  celebrity,  in  order  tc 
benefit  artists,  and  open  to  the  public  a  new  and  refining  source  of  pleasure. 
Specimens  of  all  the  great  artists  of  Europe  adorn  its  walls  ;  but  if  one,  whose 
taste  in  art  is  wholly  uncultivated,  may  be  allowed  to  express  an  opinion,  the 
fame  of  England,  in  the  hands  of  Hogarth,  Gainsborough,  Wilkie,  Reynolds, 
and  Lawrence,  suffers  nothing  in  the  comparison.  Such  noble  uses  of  the 
revenue  of  the  State,  almost  reconciles  one  to  the  enormous  taxation  of  Eng- 
land, especially  when  that  taxation  is  levied  upon  somebody  else's  pocket,  and 
not  upon  your  own.  Without  expense  of  any  kind,  the  humblest  person, 
native  or  foreigner,  can  spend  two  days  in  each  week  in  the  study  of  some 
of  the  finest  productions  of  genius. 

Newgate  is  a  very  innocent  word,  but,  how  few  ever  think  of  it,  in  its 
original  meaning  ;  and  to  what  multitudes  does  it  convey  no  other  idea  than 
that  of  crime,  and  of  a  retributive  death.  Just  out  of  Fleet-street,  at  its  lower 
end,  stands  this  great  and  ancient  prison.  Close  by  it,  and,  indeed,  connected 
with  it,  by  a  subterranean  passage,  along  which  criminals  are  conveyed,  is 
the  Old  Bailey,  the  building  in  which  offenders  are  tried,  and  from  which 
they  are  committed  to  Newgate.  As  you  enter  this  temple  of  justice,  you 
see,  conspicuously  before  you,  a  notice,  cautioning  you  against  paying  any 
one  for  admission.,  on  any  pretext.  Thanking  Heaven,  that  one  single  thing 
in  all  England  is  free  from  a  tax  or  a  fee,  you  enter  boldly,  when  a  man 
touches  you  on  tbe  elbow,  and  says,  "  a  shilling,  sir."  You  refer  him  to  the 
printed  notice,  but  he  tells  you,  that  it  only  means  you  must  pay  nobody  but 
himself.  Paying  your  shilling,  for  it  is  no  use  to  refuse,  you  enter  a  small 
gallery,  facing  the  court.  Beneath  you  is  a  large  dock,  as  it  is  called,  in 
which  the  prisoner  stands,  as  commonly  no  seat  is  allowed.  Behind  him  is  a 
large  mirror,  which  reflects  to  the  court  all  that  the  prisoner  does,  while,  on  a 
ledge  before  him,  there  is  duly  arranged,  several  bunches  of  rue,  to  revive 
him,  in  case  of  faintness.  The  judge  was  arrayed  in  robes  of  silk,  and  had 
a  monstrously  ugly  old  wig  on  his  head.  By  his  side,  dressed  rather  fantas- 
tically, were  two  or  three  officials  of  London,  sheriffs,  etc.,  all  frightfully  dis- 
figured by  wigs,  as  were  all  the  lawyers. 

The  judge,  who  was  the  common  sergeant  of  the  city,  was  a  brutal,  and 
insulting  old  fellow,  who  would  have  appeared  much  more  creditably  engaged 
in  jawing  a  lazy  set  of  Paddies,  on  a  canal  or  railway,  than  on  the  seat  of 
justice.  A  rather  conceited,  but  ignorant  young  lawyer,  was  urging  as  I 
thought  improperly,  some  point  which  had  already  been  decided  against  him. 
The  judge,  after  telling  him  he  must  be  stupid,  if  he  could  not  see  the  pro- 
priety of  his  decision,  turned  to  Alderman  Gibbs,  who  sat  by  his  side,  and 
whispered  so  loudly,  that  I  could  hear  him  quite  across  the  court,  "  Tne 
fellow  is   a   fool."     An  unfortunate  witness,  to  whom  a  clear  head  was  « 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  289 

stranger,  was  completely  stultified  by  the  domineering  tone  of  the  judge. 
"  What  did  this  man  say?"  asked  the  judge.  "When  I  was  going,"  began 
the  witness,  "  Who  cares  where  you  were  going ;  what  did  this  man  say?" 
repeated  the  common  sergeant.  "  Please  your  lordship,  as  I  was  going," 
again  commenced  the  man.  "  Who  cares  whether  you  was  coming  or  going, 
I  ask  you  what  this  man  said  ?"  Once  more  the  witness  began  in  the  old 
strain,  when  the  irritated  judge  burst  out,  "  What's  your  name,  where  did 
you  come  from?  Stand  down,  you  stupid  fellow,  and  try  to  think  how  to 
answer  a  plain  question."  A  lady's  maid,  in  the  service  of  Lady  Dun- 
donald,  was  on  trial  for  stealing  a  large  quantity  of  linen  from  her  mistress. 
The  jury,  who  did  not  leave  the  box,  but  consulted  together  in  whispers,  in 
rendering  their  verdict  of  acquittal,  said,  they  thought  Lady  D.  ought  to  have 
been  present.  "No  she  hadn't — more  fool  she  if  she  had — mind  your  own 
business — call  the  next  case."  It  is  fair,  however,  to  say,  that  this  is  an  ex- 
ceptional case.  The  general  tone  of  the  bench,  and  prosecuting  officers, 
struck  me  as  eminently  humane  and  just  toward  the  accused.  But  in  one 
case,  actual  injustice  was  done  to  a  miserable  Irishman,  who  was  in  company 
with  a  thief,  though  not  with  him  at  the  time  of  the  robbery.  The  judge 
said,  no  doubt  he  was  on  the  watch,  to  prevent  interruption.  This  may  have 
been  so,  though  there  was  not  a  particle  of  proof  of  the  fact  before  the 
court.  The  poor  fellow  burst  into  an  agony  of  tears,  when  he  was  sentenced 
to  ten  years  at  Botany  Bay. 

An  adjoining  court,  in  the  same  building,  presented  a  striking  contrast  to  all 
this.  The  somewhat  noted  chartist,  Cuffee,  was  on  trial  for  sedition.  The  At- 
torney-General, Sir  John  Jervis,  acted  in  behalf  of  the  government.  His  duty  was 
an  easy  one.  A  small  body  of  policemen,  with  a  couple  of  shorthand  writers, 
were  sent  to  one  of  the  chartist  meetings,  which  was  to  be  addressed  by  Cuffee, 
and  notified  him  of  their  object.  In  the  course  of  an  hour,  Mr.  Cuffee  had  talked 
sedition  enough  to  hang  twenty  men,  if  that  were  the  object  of  the  govern- 
ment. The  particular  expressions  relied  upon  by  the  prosecution,  to  prove 
sedition,  were  testified  to,  and  Sir  John  Jervis,  in  a  quiet,  gentlemanly 
way,  explained  the  law  on  the  subject  to  the  jury,  saying  nothing  in  anyway 
to  influence  their  minds.  The  defense  was  a  strange  one  for  a  lawyer  of  any 
reputation  to  make,  and  Cuftee's  counsel  was  a  rather  celebrated  one.  He 
commenced  by  saying,  that  the  law  of  England  recognized  the  right  of  revolu- 
tion, and  was  proceeding  to  quote  Blackstone  in  support  of  the  doctrine,  when 
the  judge  stopped  him,  and  said,  such  a  line  of  defense  was  inadmissible. 
The  counsel  undertook  to  argue  this  absurd  doctrine,  when  the  judge  sternly 
told  him,  though  there  might  be  some  apology  for  an  ignorant  man  like  the 
prisoner,  believing  such  an  absurd  notion,  there  was  none  whatever  for  a 
man  learned  in  the  law,  and  such  a  defense  was  disgraceful.  The  jury 
almost  immediately  brought  in  their  verdict  of  guilty,  when  the  judge,  after 
a  few  remarks  upon  the  folly  and  wickedness  of  attempting  to  excite  an  insur- 
rection against  the  government  of  the  country,  sentenced  him  to  two  years- 
imprisonment,  and  a  fine,  I  think,  of  five  hundred  pounds.  As  Cuffee  was  a 
ooor  journeyman  shoemaker,  the  fine  was  the  most  severe  part  of  the  punish- 
19 


290  ,  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

ment,  as  he  might  lie  in  jail  for  years,  before  such  a  sum  could  be  raised  by 
the  chartists,  miserably  poor  as  most  of  them  are. 

The  river  Thames  runs  for  miles,  through  compact  lines  of  warehouses, 
factories,  and  dwellings.  The  city  side,  on  the  left  of  the  river,  and  the 
Surrey  side  on  the  right,  contain  a  compact  population  of  two  millions,  in- 
closed within  an  area  of  about  ten  miles  square.  Small  iron  steamers  run 
up  and  down  this  mighty  stream,  passing  each  other  every  moment,  and 
making  frequent  landings,  at  a  cost  of  from  one  penny,  to  three  pence  for 
each  passenger,  according  to  the  distance.  Though  very  convenient  and 
cheap,  they  are  miserable  affairs.  There  is  not  a  ferry-boat,  on  the  remotest 
waters  of  the  great  west,  of  our  own  country,  which  is  not  far  superior  to  the 
best  steamer  I  saw  in  England.  The  cabins  are  small,  ill-lighted,  and  so 
low,  that  a  middle-sized  man  cannot  stand  erect  with  his  hat  on.  No  carpets, 
no  mirrors,  no  cushioned  seats,  no  highly  polished  wood  work,  and  no  gild- 
ing, render  them  attractive.  They  are  often  crowded,  especially  on  Sundays, 
with  six  and  eight  hundred,  and  even  a  thousand  persons.  Should  the 
railing  give  way,  numbers,  from  their  crowded  state,  would  be  precipitated 
into  the  river.  The  width  of  the  river  varies  very  much.  Judging  by  the 
eye,  it  is  about  as  wide  at  London  bridge,  as  the  Ohio  river  at  Cincinnati, 
v/hen  the  water  is  at  the  lowest.  Several  bridges,  constructed  at  great  ex- 
pense, and  many  of  them  possessed  of  great  beauty,  unite  the  London  with 
the  Surrey  side.  About  a  mile  below  the  lowest  bridge,  is  the  tunnel,  which 
crosses  the  river  beneath  the  water.  This  gigantic  undertaking  was  com- 
menced years  ago  by  a  private  company,  but  the  expense  was  so  great,  and 
the  impediments  so  numerous,  that,  though  aided  by  several  parliamentary 
grants,  the  enterprise  was  for  a  time  abandoned.  At  length,  the  government 
undertook,  and  completed  it,  and  the  river  was  crossed  by  foot-passengers.  It 
was  originally  designed  to  finish  the  tunnel  for  carriages,  but  though  long 
contemplated,  no  road  for  horses  has  been  opened  from  either  end.  You 
descend  a  circular  flight  of  stone  steps,  about  seventy -five  feet  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  when  you  see  stretching  before  you,  a  long,  double  arch, 
built  entirely  of  stone.  As  you  pass  along  from  side  to  side  of  the  river,  it 
is  difficult  to  conceive  that  a  mighty  flood  of  water  is  rolling  over  your  head, 
or  that  perhaps  the  keel  of  some  large  ship  may  be  but  a  short  distance  above 
you.  A  penny  is  charged  as  toll,  but  the  receipts  are  said  to  be  hardly 
sufficient  to  meet  the  necessary  expenses  of  lighting  and  repairs. 

On  our  return,  we  visited  the  Tower,  once  a  palace,  then  for  centuries  a 
prison  for  state  offenders  ;  it  now  serves  as  the  National  Museum  of  curiosities. 
It  is  a  venerable  place,  and  gloomy  enough  it  must  have  seemed  to  the  states- 
men and  warriors  who  incurred  the  displeasure  of  their  sovereigns,  and  were 
transported  from  the  gayety  of  a  court,  to  the  solitude  of  a  tower  dungeon. 
As  you  enter,  a  soldier  dressed  in  the  military  costume  of  Henry  VHIth,  con- 
ducts you  around  the  buildings.  You  first,  however,  pay  him  sixpence, 
which  entitles  you  to  be  hurried  rapidly  from  curiosity  to  curiosity,  and  to 
listen  to  his  sing-song  account  of  their  history.  The  block  and  ax,  with 
which  Ann  Boleyn,  the  second  wife  of  Henry  VIHth,  and  mother  of  Queec 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  291 

Elizabeth,  was  beheaded;  the  small  room  in  which  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  was 
confined  for  many  years;  cannon  raised  from  the  wreck  of  the  Royal  George, 
after  more  than  half  a  century's  immersion  in  the  ocean,  were  among  the 
things  to  which  our  attention  was  called.  We  were  hurried  so  rapidly  from 
object  to  object,  that  it  became  exceedingly  annoying,  and  I  offered  our 
guide  his  own  price,  to  allow  me  to  take  my  own  time.  He  said  it  was  im- 
possible, such  a  thing  had  never  been  heard  of,  and  I  was  content,  per- 
force, to  follow  the  man  into  the  horse  armory.  To  me  this  was  by  far  the 
most  interesting  part  of  the  show.  Here,  mounted  on  horseback,  were  all 
the  monarchs  of  England  from  the  Conqueror  downward,  with  renowned 
knights  and  warriors,  each  dressed  in  the  armor  of  his  age,  and  in  many 
cases,  in  the  particular  suit  he  had  worn  in  life.  It  needed  little  imagination, 
with  these  figures  in  sight,  to  realize  a  battle  as  it  was  in  feudal  times.  How 
they  could  endure  the  enormous  weight  of  armor,  sometimes  as  much  as  a 
hundred  and  twenty  pounds,  it  is  difficult  to  conjecture.  Further  on,  we  were 
passed  over  to  an  old  woman,  who,  with  a  comically  reverential  air,  showed  us 
the  regalia,  as  it  is  called,  and  the  paraphernalia  used  in  the  coronation  of  the 
monarchs  of  England.  Here  was  the  identical  crown,  which,  in  our  boyish 
simplicity  we  used  to  suppose  the  king  wore  as  we  wear  our  hats,  beside  it, 
was  the  scepter,  which  he  was  always  thought  to  hold  in  his  hand.  Gold, 
diamonds,  and  pearls,  flashed  before  our  eyes,  and  when  the  female  custo- 
dian told  us  how  many  millions  these  baubles  cost,  I  could  not  help  hurriedly 
computing  how  many  poor  children  the  interest  of  this  useless  wealth  would 
annually  clothe  and  educate,  who  are  now  growing  up  all  over  London,  in 
vice  and  crime,  fit  food  for  the  penitentiary,  the  hulks,  Botany  Bay,  or  the 
gallows.  This  terminated  the  sights  to  which  the  expenditures  of  our  six- 
pences entitled  us.  As  we  passed  out,  we  stopped  for  a  moment  to  think  ot 
the  multitude  of  victims  who  had  suffered  the  last  pangs  of  death  in  that 
narrow  passage  way,  under  the  hands  of  the  executioner. 

Desirous  of  seeing  the  worst  side  of  London  life,  I  had  formed  an 
acquaintance  with  a  policeman,  who  had  been  for  eighteen  years  in  the 
service,  and  engaged  him  to  show  me  around  his  beat,  which  included  the 
famous  Rookery,  and  the  purlieus  of  Drury  Lane,  the  worst  part  of  London. 
About  midnight,  he  began  to  show  me  what  night  life  in  London  was. 
While  pointing  out  to  me  a  fence,  or  place  for  the  purchase  of  stolen  goods,  a 
man  came  out  and  stared  impudently  into  my  face,  when  the  policeman 

told  him  to  go  into  the  house.     The  fellow  said,  he  would   be  d d  if  he 

did,  when  the  policeman  took  him  by  the  collar  and  shoved  him  into  a  yard, 
and  closed  the  door  upon  him.  Another  man  immediately  came  from  the 
fence,  and  began  to  abuse  the  policeman,  who  told  him  to  go  back  into  his 
house.  Instead  of  doing  so,  he  drew  a  heavy  bar  of  iron  from  beneath  his 
coat,  and  aimed  a  blow  at  the  policeman's  head,  which  the  latter  warded  off  at 
the  expense  of  his  hand,  which  was  badly  bruised.  The  fellow  instantly  turned 
and  jumped  into  the  house,  and  jammed-to  the  door,  when  the  policeman 
stove  in  a  panel  with  the  butt  end  of  his  hanger,  which  the  police  just  then, 
were  permitted  to  wear,  in  anticipation  of  danger  from  the  chartist  commo- 
tious.     Creeping  in,  the  policeman,  aided  by  a  second,  who  came  at  his  call 


292  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

brought  out  the  man  who  had  been  so  free  with  his  blows,  but  now  he  could 
neither  see,  hear,  stand,  nor  walk,  but  lay  flat  upon  the  pavement,  and  com- 
pelled the  policemen  to  carry  him  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  bodily.  I  ob- 
served the  next  day,  in  the  newspaper,  that  the  fellow  was  imprisoned  but 
thirty  days  for  this  outrage. 

On  his  return,  with  his  wounded  hand  hastily  bandaged,  the  policeman 
took  me  up  a  narrow  street,  filled  with  dilapidated  houses,  some  of  them 
very  tall,  and  introduced  me  into  a  room  in  one  of  them,  where  a  miserable 
old  woman  sat  hovering  over  a  fire.  Just  before  our  entrance,  we  had  seen 
three  boys  skulking  in,  whom  the  policeman  said  were  juvenile  thieves.  As 
we  entered,  he  said  to  the  old  woman,  "Well,  Mother  O'Brian,  I  have  come 
to  see  you  again ;  "  "  Yes,"  said  she,  "  but  it's  no  good  ;  the  poor  dears  haint 
prigged  nothing  all  day ;  they  haint  got  nothing  to  pay  their  lodgings  with." 
This,  be  it  understood,  was  a  penny  lodging-house,  where  the  most  miserable 
of  the  race  were  accustomed  to  resort,  when  their  funds  ran  low.  Proceed- 
ing up  the  stairs,  the  policeman  said  to  me,  "  Be  careful  to  walk  in  the  middle 
of  the  stairs,  for  the  sides  are  all  covered  with  night  soil."  He  also  told  me 
not  to  touch  anything  in  the  house,  and  that  I  had  better  slip  my  pantaloons 
inside  my  boots,  for  fear  of  the  body  lice  which  abounded  there.  Ascending 
two  pairs  of  stairs,  we  entered  a  room  about  sixteen  feet  square  ;  in  one 
corner,  on  a  pile  of  rags  laid  upon  the  floor,  were  a  man  and  three  boys.  The 
man  had  a  shirt  on,  but  the  boys  were  perfectly  naked.  Across  the  foot  of 
the  bed  lay  a  girl  of  fourteen  or  fifteen,  with  absolutely  nothing  on  her  per- 
son but  an  old  bonnet  over  her  hair,  apparently  to  keep  it  from  becoming 
tangled.  The  boys,  who  were  the  ones  we  had  just  before  seen  stealing  into 
the  house,  pretended  to  be  in  a  sound  sleep,  and  rubbed  their  eyes  very  na- 
turally. They  protested  vehemently,  they  had  stolen  nothing  all  day,  and 
appealed  to  the  woman  whether  they  had  not  been  unable  to  pay  for  their 
lodgings,  as  a  triumphant  proof  of  their  innocence.  In  the  next  corner,  was 
a  man  between  two  women,  the  face  of  one  of  whom  was  a  complete  mass  of 
blood.  In  the  other  two  corners  of  the  room,  were  similar  collections  of 
rags,  similarly  occupied.  There  was  neither  a  bedstead  or  a  bed  in  the  room. 
The  plastering  had  been  torn  away  by  yards,  and  the  rotten  floor  was  in- 
clined at  a  considerable  angle  from  a  level,  and  seemed  as  though  it  would 
give  way  at  every  step. 

We  went  into  a  number  of  other  rooms,  filled  with  the  same  miserable  oc- 
cupants, but  a  hasty  glance  sufficed.  Of  such  wretchedness  I  had  never 
conceived,  and  all  this,  and  much  more,  existed  within  ten  minutes'  walk  of 
the  palace  where  the  Queen  was  then  sleeping,  and  of  the  residences  of  the 
aristocracy,  the  humanity,  and  the  wealth  of  the  land. 

Leaving  with  a  heavy  heart,  these  penny  lodgings,  my  conductor  took  me 
to  a  plain-looking  house,  and  told  me  to  go  boldly  in,  that  there  was  a  grand 
gathering  of  thieves  there,  but  nothing  was  to  be  feared  if  I  showed  no- 
timidity.  Entering  a  large  room,  I  found  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  men  sit- 
ting; on  benches  around  the  walls.  Nothing  was  said,  as  I  passed  from  man 
to  man,  looking  at  each  one,  as  though  I  was  in  search  of  some  particular 
thief,  till  I  had  gone  half  round  the  rtiom.     Then  muttered  exclamations,  and 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  293 

occasional  curses,  were  rapidly  deepening  into  something  more  serious,  when 
luckily  for  me,  the  policeman  entered,  and  asked  me  if  I  had  found  the  man. 
1  told  him  no,  except  it  was  this  man,  pointing  to  one  in  front  of  me,  whc 
had  his  hat  closely  jammed  down  over  his  eyes.  My  companion  took  his 
hanger  and  knocked  the  hat  from  the  fellow's  head.  I  never  saw  on  human 
countenance,  such  an  expression  of  haggard  apprehension,  as  on  this  man. 
He  probably  had  been  guilty  of  some  crime,  and  supposed  he  was  about  tc 
be  arrested  ;  when  I  said  the  man  was  not  there,  the  lon^-drawn  breaths  in- 
dicated  how  great  was  the  relief  to  this  vagabond  set  of  rogues  and  thieves. 
I  had  seen  enough  of  the  low  life  of  London  for  one  night,  and  as  the  long 
dawn  of  an  English  October  began  to  lighten  the  tall  spires  of  London,  I  left 
my  intelligent  conductor,  with  my  thanks,  and  also  something  more 
substantial. 

Hampton  Court,  twelve  miles  from  London,  is  one  of  the  show  places  of 
the  country.  It  was  built  by  Cardinal  Woolsey,  for  his  especial  residence, 
but  the  jealousy  of  Henry  VIII,  having  been  artfully  excited  by  the  repre- 
sentations of  some  of  the  Cardinal's  enemies,  who  told  him  it  was  diso-race- 
ful  to  have  his  prelate  better  lodged  than  himself,  he  interrogated  the  Cardi- 
nal on  the  subject,  who  seeing  his  danger,  answered  that  he  was  building  it 
for  the  King.  Henry  gave  him  other  lands  in  exchange,  and  Hampton  Court 
has  ever  since  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  crowri.  It  was  a  favorite 
residence  of  King  James  I,  and  Charles  I,  and  Queen  Anne.  It  has  long, 
however,  been  abandoned,  as  a  royal  residence,  and  is  now  a  favorite  resort 
for  London  pleasure-seekers.  Quite  a  number  of  the  impoverished  scions  of 
nobility  are  lodged  here,  and  supported  by  grants  from  the  government,  pro- 
fessedly, on  the  ground  of  services  rendered  the  country,  by  some  of  their 
ancestors,  but  really,  to  save  the  order  from  the  necessity  of  labor,  or  the 
degradation  of  the  workhouse. 

Leaving  London,  by  sail  from  the  "  Nine  Elms  station,"  I  was  speedily- 
landed  at  Richmond  Hill.  After  being  duly  importuned  by  the  donkey-boys, 
to  take  a  ride  upon  their  scurvy  beasts,  and  ascending  a  beautiful  grassy 
slope,  whence  a  charming  rural  view  is  obtained,  I  walked  along  a  narrow 
road  between  high  hedges,  the  openings  in  which,  exhibited,  everywhere, 
beautiful  glimpses  of  a  highly  cultivated  country. 

Passing  Wandsworth  Common,  I  observed  a  small  flock  of  fat  sheep,  in  a 
small  but  rich-looking  pasture,  and  a  man  leaning  over  the  fence,  looking  at 
them.  He  was  the  owner  of  the  sheep,  and  rented  the  land,  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  a  final  feed  to  his  stock,  before  sending  them  up  to  the  London 
market.  He  told  me  he  paid  £5  10  rent  per  acre,  and  at  my  expression  of 
surprise  at  his  high  rent,  he  said  his  lease  was  nearly  out,  and  he  could  not 
renew  it  under  £6  10,  or  £7,  a  year.  Add  to  this,  tithe,  or  the  one-tenth 
due  the  clergy,  and  the  heavy  taxation,  and  how  a  tenant-farmer  can  live  is  a  mys- 
tery to  me,  though  he  gets  about  thirty  to  forty  per  cent,  more  for  his  sheep 
than  the  New  York  price.  Our  farmers,  who  own  their  lands,  and  whos« 
taxation  is  light,  and  who  pay  anything  or  nothing,  as  they  please,  for  the 
support  of  religion,  think  their  own  employment  is  far  less  remunerative 
than  the  mechanic's  or  the  trader's,  what  would  they  think  if  each  acre  oi  land 


294  A  NEW  EI  GLANDER 

was  burdened  with  an  annual  rent  of  ttventy-five  to  forty  dollars.  It  is  nc 
wonder  that  such  numbers  of  English  farmers  are  every  year  leaving  theif 
heavy  burdens  on  industry  at  home,  and  throwing  in  their  lot  with  our  own 
people. 

Sauntering  leisurely  along,  a  well-dressed  man,  of  rather  superior  address, 
erossed  the  street,  and  addressing  me  in  an  apologetic  way,  said  he  was 
ashamed  to  be  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  asking  assistance,  but  he  was  a  re- 
duced tradesman,  and  thrown  out  of  business  ;  he  had  a  wife  and  four 
children,  dependent  upon  the  contributions  of  the  wealthy  for  their  support, 
etc.  etc.  In  my  simplicity,  I  took  all  this  for  gospel,  and  gave  the  Jeremy 
Diddler  what  silver  I  had  in  my  pocket.  I  did  not  see  him  do  it,  but  I  have 
no  doubt,  as  soon  as  my  back  was  turned,  he  struck  his  tongue  into  his 
cheek,  and  complimented  me  with  a  few  thoughts  on  the  lubricating  eflfects  of 
soft  soder.  A  very  few  weeks'  residence  in  London,  teaches  a  stranger  that 
genteel  begging  is  a  very  popular  and  profitable  profession.  As  it  had  begun 
to  rain  just  on  my  entrance  to  the  town  of  Kingston  upon  Thames,  I  stopped 
at  the  nearest  tavern,  and  odered  supper.  After  dispatching  several  mutton 
chops,  I  asked  the  landlord  to  show  me  a  room.  He  was  very  sorry,  but  a 
company  of  soldiers  were  quartered  on  him,  and  every  room  was  full.  It 
seems  that  every  tavern  in  England  is  obliged,  by  law,  to  accommodate  sol- 
diers at  a  much  lower  rate  than  other  travelers  pay.  As  quite  a  detachment 
were  stopping  that  night  at  Kingston,  I  found  it  difficult  to  obtain  lodgings. 
At  last,  however,  I  found  a  very  old  building  of  wood,  with  timbers  quite  as 
large  as  were  used  in  the  first  generation  of  American  houses.  It  was  so 
low  between  joints,  that,  though  no  giant,  I  could  not  stand  with  my  hat 
on.  My  bedroom  had,  however,  a  charming  air  of  neatness.  The  sheets, 
white  as  driven  snow,  and  fragrant  with  lavender,  the  floor  scrubbed  to  a 
whiteness  that  actually  made  me  hesitate  to  put  my  travel-soiled  feet  upon  it, 
and  the  curtains  to  the  bed  and  single  window,  fresh  and  clean — all  these  to- 
gether, brought  vividly  to  my  mind,  a  country  home  in  New  England.  The 
next  morning  was  a  little  chilly,  and  I  begged  the  landlady  to  allow  me  to 
take  my  breakfast  by  the  kitchen  fire.  What  an  air  of  neatness  that  kitchen 
wore.  The  jambs  of  the  chimney  were  adorned  with  Dutch  tiles,  containing 
the  history  of  Joseph  and  his  temptation.  The  hearth,  the  floor,  the  tables, 
everything  looked  as  though  dirt  was  a  stranger  to  the  house.  The  copper 
and  pewter  utensils  hanging  on  the  walls,  wore  a  dazzling  polish,  while  three 
female  domestics,  in  nice  white  caps,  collars,  and  aprons,  were  a  fitting  ac- 
companiment to  the  general  attractions  of  the  room.  The  girls,  and  nice 
rosy-cheeked  creatures  they  were,  told  me  their  wages,  which  they  considered 
very  good,  were  £7  a  year,  beside  Christmas  vails,  of  a  few  shillings  value, 
which  it  was  optional  for  their  mistress  to  give,  if  they  were  satisfied  with  the 
services  rendered  her.  Custom  has  established  a  singular  rule  for  servants 
in  most  parts  of  England.  Silk  dresses,  and  parasols,  are  prohibited  them, 
for  as  a  lady  once  said  to  me,  "how  could  a  body  distinguish  the  mistress 
from  the  servant?"  Delains  for  winter,  and  muslins  for  summer,  are  per- 
mitted articles  of  dress.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  a  servant  who  should  dress 
in  silk,  and  carry  a  parasol,  would  be  thought  on  the  short  road  to  ruin.     A 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  295 

feather  in  her  hat  would  be  thought  to  indicate  that  her  ruin  was  already 
accomplished. 

A  more  charming  morning  than  the  one  in  which  I  walked  the  few  milea 
from  Kingston  to  Hampton  Court,  I  never  remember.  Almost  for  the  first 
time,  in  England,  I  saw  the  sun,  not  as  it  commonly  looks  there,  like  a  red- 
hot  warming-pan,  trying  to  emerge  from  vapory  clouds,  but  in  all  the  efful- 
gence of  its  beauty.  Within  the  hour,  I  was  entering  this  relic  of  Tudor 
magnificence.  Proceeding  up  a  broad  marble  staircase,  I  was  surprised  to 
see  the  various  doors  ornamented  with  noble  names,  "  Lady  Caroline,"  "  Lady 
Mary,"  etc.  While  I  was  hesitating  what  to  do,  a  lady  opened  a  door  near 
me,  to  whom  I  apologized  for  my  unintentional  intrusion,  and  begged  to  know 
where  the  picture-gallery  was.  It  seems  I  had  got  up  the  wrong  staircase,  and 
the  lady  courteously  directed  me  which  way  to  go  to  find  the  object  of  my 
pursuit.  At  the  head  of  the  stairs,  my  cane  was  demanded  of  me,  but  a 
desperate  limp,  improvised  for  the  occasion,  enabled  me  to  keep  it.  Room 
after  room,  naked  of  furniture,  with  the  exception  of  the  state-beds,  about  as 
large  as  a  moderate-sized  chamber,  and  with  the  walls  covered  with  paint- 
ings, most  of  them  of  no  great  merit,  led  us  at  length  to  the  apartment  which 
contained  the  "  Beauties  of  the  Court  of  Charles  II."  I  had  long  been  fa- 
miliar with  engravings  from  these  portraits,  but  here  they  were  in  all  the  vo- 
luptuous bloom  and  freshness  of  their  charms.  A  more  beautiful,  or  a  more 
corrupt  court  never  existed  than  that  of  the  "  Merry  Monarch."  Nell 
Gwynne,  Duchess  of  St.  Albans,  and  ancestor  of  the  present  Duke,  was 
raised  by  her  charms,  from  an  orange  peddler  about  the  theater,  to  a  coronet. 
Her  sunny  face  looks  lovingly  out  from  a  forest  of  curls,  and  indicates  the 
good  heart  which  led  her  to  influence  her  paramour  to  found  Chelsea  Hos- 
pital. Lady  Castlemaine,  the  Duchess  of  Portsmouth,  and  a  dozen  other 
beauties,  with  swelling  bosoms  abundantly  exposed,  and  lascivious-looking 
eyes,  stared  out  as  brilliantly  from  the  canvas,  as  though  painted  but  yester- 
day. Among  these  portraits,  there  is  one  of  cabinet  size,  that  represents, 
the  catalogue  says,  an  unknown  lady,  that  is  not  only  the  finest  in  the  room, 
but  the  finest  I  ever  saw.  I  spent  hours  over  this  nameless  lady;  as  often  as 
I  got  away  from  it,  I  would  feel  drawn  back  by  some  irresistible  charm  to 
take  one  more  look.  Not  only  was  there  great  beauty  of  feature,  but  in  the 
expression  of  the  countenance,  there  was  that  charming  union  of  purity  with 
spirit,  that  is  so  rarely  seen,  but  more  rarely  resisted.  After  passing  the 
whole  day  in  and  around  Hampton  Court,  I  was  glad  to  rest  my  weary  limbs 
on  an  omnibus  box,  beside  the  driver,  which  speedily  took  a  load  of  visitors 
back  to  the  cars  for  London. 

Everybody  who  has  read  "  Whittington  and  his  Cat,"  has  heard  of  the 
Lord  Mayor  of  London.  As  the  first  magistrate  of  the  first  city  of  the 
world,  and  as  retaining  more  of  the  parade  of  feudal  display,  than  almost 
any  other  distinguished  official  in  England,  the  grand  show  of  the  gilt  coach, 
tha  burly  coachman,  and  the  tall  footmen  behind,  all  dressed  out  in  buff 
breeches,  si:k  stockings,  blue  military  coats,  of  the  pattern  of  centuries  ago, 
with  the  three-cornered  hats  and  big  canes,  the  Lord  Mayor  himself,  in  his 
erix-irjed  robes  and  massive  chain,  with  city  Remembrancer,  Recorder,  and 


296  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

other  subordinate  luminaries  that  revolve  around  him,  appeal  strikingly  to 
the  immense  number  of  poor  apprentices,  who  witness  from  week  to  week, 
the  grand  display  in  honor  of  the  man,  who  once  may  have  been  as  poor  as 
they.  As  everybody  knows,  one  of  the  qualifications  for  the  mayoralty,  is 
such  a  degree  of  wealth,  as  will  enable  the  candidate  to  keep  up  the  ancient 
reputation  of  the  city  for  hospitality.  The  impression  is  somewhat  common 
with  us,  that  it  is  unusual  for  a  person  in  England  to  rise  from  extreme 
poverty  to  wealth.  Such,  however,  is  not  the  case.  The  concurrence  of 
talent,  industry,  and  good  fortune  in  an  individual,  does  there,  as  here  in  a 
multitude  of  cases,  transfer  the  poor  barefooted  lad  with  a  stout  heart  and 
strong  hands,  into  the  pursy  citizen,  with  a  large  abdominal  corporosity,  to 
which  his  gold  chain  and  big  seals  cling  most  lovingly.  The  oil  and  color 
man,  as  they  strangely  designate  a  dealer  in  pickles,  preserves,  etc.,  or  the 
chandler,  as  is  queerly  called  the  man  whose  occupation  would  be  known 
with  us,  as  that  of  a  huxter,  or  fifty  other  occupations,  may  present  the  suc- 
cessful candidate  for  the  coveted  honor  of  the  Lordmayorship  of  London,  and 
show  how  well  industry,  skill,  and  mercantile  ability,  are  appreciated  there. 
But  jn  addition  to  the  great  display  of  a  well  spread  table,  good  food,  and 
rich  wines  and  liquors,  feasting  great  men,  from  Prince  Albert  down  to  Pro- 
vincial Mayors,  on  all  conceivable  occasions,  he  also  has  as  part  of  his  duties, 
that  of  holding  a  daily  court,  for  the  examination  and  punishment  of  offenders 
within  the  city  limits. 

The  late  holder  of  the  office,  was  a  specimen  of  a  genuine  John  Bull, 
portly,  bluff-looking,  with  a  hard,  bold  eye,  and  a  complexion  speaking 
loudly  of  calipash  and  calipee,  washed  down  with  copious  libations  of  Bur- 
gundy and  Heidsick.  At  his  left,  a  competent  clerk,  professionally  educated, 
sits,  as  the  indispensable  familiar  to  the  wealthy  tradesman,  elevated  to  a  post 
which  compels  to  the  constant  administration  of  criminal  justice.  As  a  speci- 
men of  the  way  they  sometimes  get  on,  when  venturing  to  dispense  with  the 
aid  of  the  clerk,  we  once  heard  the  Lord  Mayor  call  up  for  trial,  a  boy,  on 
charge  of  having  robbed  his  employer.  The  clerk  said  the  boy's  master  de- 
clined to  prosecute.  The  magistrate  turned  to  the  lad,  and  said,  "  You  are 
a  worthless  fellow,  you  aint  worth  prosecuting,  your  master  don't  think  you 
are  worth  the  trouble  of  it.  Now  go."  And  this  to  a  boy  of  fifteen,  giving 
the  lad  to  understand  that  his  crimes  and  vices,  had  made  him  too  contempt- 
ible to  be  punished,  or  in  other  words,  that  a  person  must  have  some  degree 
of  respectability  about  him,  before  the  law  would  take  notice  of  his  delin- 
quencies. One  of  the  most  disagreeable  things  about  English  courts,  large 
or  small,  is  the  difficulty  of  a  stranger's  getting  admission.  On  the  whole, 
the  most  feasible  mode  of  gaining  an  entrance  to  such  places,  is  at  once  to 
hand  over  your  shilling,  when  all  difficulties  will  immediately  cease.  The 
porter  at  the  Mansion  Houses,  as  the  Lord  Mayor's  official  residence  is  called, 
may  tell  you  as  he  told  me,  **..  there  is  no  room  in  the  court,"  but  the  moment 
he  observes  your  hand  stealing  into  your  pocket,  his  frigid  manners  become 
most  cordial,  and  he  says  with  the  blandest  of  smiles,  "  possibly  there  may 
be  room  for  another,  I  will  see,"  in  a  moment  he  will  re-appear,  and  usher  you 
into  the  large  court  room,  where  there  may  be  a  dozen  or  twenty  spectators 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  297 

So  much  for  the  virtue  of  a  shilling,  in  reducing  a  crowd  to  a  baker's 
dozen  or  so. 

The  University  of  Oxford,  is  the  aristocratic  place  of  education  for  wealthy 
Englishmen.  The  town  itself  is  about  the  size  of  New  Haven,  Conn.,  and  has  a 
population  of  twenty-five  thousand,  while  the  University  has  about  four  times 
as  many  students  enrolled  as  there  are  at  Yale  College,  or  rather  more  than 
2,000.  Imagine  yourself  on  a  tall  steeple,  at  the  intersection  of  the  two 
principal  streets,  called  Carfax,  and  looking  round,  you  will  see  a  multitude 
of  Gothic  and  Norman  towers,  and  turrets,  irregularly  scattered  over  the 
whole  town,  and  appended  to  large  buildings,  built  in  quadrangular  form,  or 
around  a  hollow  square.  Possibly  a  better  idea  may  be  gained  by  imagining 
a  hundred  gothic  churches,  varying  in  size  from  that  of  Trinity  church 
New  York,  to  that  of  some  country  church,  which  has  battlemented  walls  but 
no  tower,  and  by  uniting  from  half  a  dozen  to  twenty  of  these  buildings,  you 
may  form  some  idea  of  some  twenty  different  colleges.  These  colleges  are  all 
independent  coporations,  governing  themselves,  and  united  together  for  some 
general  purposes,  but  each  having  its  own  system  of  instruction,  its  separate 
officers,  and  its  own  internal  police.  Education,  in  Oxford,  in  the  languages 
of  Greece  and  Rome,  is  pursued  with  great  thoroughness.  The  higher 
mathematics  are  also  successfully  cultivated,  but  the  whole  theory  of  a  public 
education  differs  widely  in  England  and  America.  There,  it  is  the  accom- 
plishment of  a  gentleman.  Here,  it  is  a  means  of  usefulness  and  influence 
over  others.  The  Natural  Sciences  form  no  part  of  the  general  course  of  study, 
though  lectures  are  given  to  such  as  may  wish  to  cultivate  a  knowledge  of 
Chemistry,  Mineralogy,  Geology,  etc.  With  all  their  defects,  the  Universi- 
ties are  noble  places  of  education  for  the  sons  of  the  aristocracy,  and  of  the 
more  wealthy  of  the  mercantile  and  manufacturing  classes.  As  institutions 
of  learning  for  the  less  wealthy,  King's  College,  and  the  London  University 
have  been  established,  and  partly  endowed  by  the  government.  In  them, 
the  course  of  instruction  is  better  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  present  age, 
than  at  Cambridge  or  Oxford.  Dissenters  are  not  admitted  to  the  latter 
University,  nor  can  be  graduated  at  the  former,  in  consequence  of  the  matri- 
culation oath  in  the  one  case,  and  the  graduation  oath  in  the  other,  being  so 
shaped  as  to  be  conscientiously  taken  by  nobody  but  Episcopalians,  or  mem- 
bers of  the  established  church.  This  is  not  the  case  at  the  London  Uni- 
versity, the  consequence  of  which  is,  a  large  patronage  from  Dissenters. 

No  general  provision  exists  in  England  for  the  elementary  education  of  all 
its  population.  Yet  the  number  wTho  cannot  read  at  all,  is  comparatively 
small.  What  with  corporation  schools,  charity  schools,  the  schools  connected 
with  the  church,  and  those  supported  by  dissenters,  together  with  those 
established  in  large  manufactories  and  by  private  munificence,  almost  all 
have  some  opportunity  to  gain  a  knowledge  of  reading,  and  to  a  less  degree, 
of  writing.  The  miserably  poor  of  large  cities,  and  the  semi-paupers  of 
certain  agricultural  districts  are,  however,  as  a  class,  destitute  of  all  ac- 
quaintance with  books.  Justice,  however,  requires  us  to- say  that  during  the 
last  twenty  years,  great  improvements  have  been  made  in  the  means  and 
facilities  for  the  education  of  the  masses. 


298  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

The  following  description  of  an  English  home,  extracted  from  Bartlett's 
"  What  I  saw  in  London,"  will  give  a  pleasing,  as  well  as  just  impression 
of  the  domestic  comfort  and  enjoyments  of  that  large  middling  class,  which 
in  England,  as  in  every  other  country,  is  its  strength  and  pride. 

"A  true  English  home  is  as  sweet  and  beautiful  a  place  as  a  Mahometan 
could  wish  for  his  paradise  !  It  exhibits  that  exquisite  finish,  which  is  the 
consequence  of  cultivation.  When  we  speak  of  an  English  home,  we  mean 
a  home  among  the  select  middle  classes,  not  among  noblemen  or  working- 
men,  for  among  the  former,  there  is  a  hollow-heartedness,  and  abject  devotion 
to  mere  conventionalities — a  disgusting  pride  of  blood,  wealth  and  connec- 
tions. And  were  we  to  describe  the  homes  of  the  latter — the  toiling  laborers 
of  England — we  should  picture  broken  casements,  expiring  fires,  haggard 
countenances,  and  young  children  crying  for  bread. 

But  we  choose  now  to  describe — 

"  The  merry  homes  of  England  ! —  There  woman's  voice  flows  forth  in  song, 

Around  their  hearths  by  night,  Or  childhood's  tale  is  told, 

What  gladsome  looks  of  household  love  Or  lips  move  tunefully  along 

Meet  in  the  ruddy  light !  Some  glorious  page  of  old." 

In  the  English  heart  there  is  a  deep  love  of  quiet,  calm  enjoyments,  and 
home  joys — this  is  the  reason  why  the  English  home  is  so  lovable.  Unlike 
the  French,  they  are  not  suited  with  an  eternal  round  of  festivities,  balls,  or 
theatrical  amusements.  The  Frenchman  lives  continually  abroad,  and 
scarcely  at  all  at  home.  In  England  the  holidays,  even  in  London,  have  a 
rural  tinge.  When  the  Frenchman  would  rush  to  the  Boulevards,  the  more 
quiet  and  sedate  Englishman  gathers  his  children  about  him,  and  goes  to 
spend  the  day  at  Epping  Forest,  Gravesend,  or  Kerr  Gardens.  It  would  be 
no  pleasure  for  him  to  wander  over  the  fashionable  walks  of  the  city,  but 
away  from  the  crowd,  in  the  bosom  of  his  family,  he  indulges  in  the  height 
of  felicity. 

Among  the  middle  classes  in  England,  or  perhaps  we  should  say  the  upper- 
middle,  there  is  no  degree  of  want,  but  rather  a  profusion  of  all  that  can 
minister  to  the  respectable  appetites  of  mankind.  The  house,  the  grounds, 
the  situation  and  prospect  are  nearly  perfect.  We  have  seen  many  English 
homes,  and  never  for  once  came  away  from  one  without  an  enthusiastic  ad- 
miration of  the  sweet  garden  in  which  it  pleasantly  nestled.  Painting  minis- 
ters to  the  eye,  and  music  to  the  ear* 

In  the  morning  at  nine  the  father  sits  down  cosily  with  his  family  to  his 
dry  toast  and  coffee,  his  morning  newspaper  and  family  letters,  devouring 
them  all  together.  The  Times  with  fresh  news  from  all  quarters  of  the  world 
lies  open  before  him,  and  the  "  resonant  steam  eagles"  have  been  flying  all 
night  that  he  may  read  his  letters  with  his  morning  meal.  He  then  starts  for 
his  counting-house,  or  his  office,  and  with  a  luncheon  at  mid-day  satisfies  his 
appetite  until  the  dinner  hour — which  is  at  four,  five,  or  six,  as  circumstances 
may  be — when  he  dines  with  his  family  around  him. 

Tea  is  served  at  seven,  a  simple  but  generally  a  very  joyous  meal.     Sup 
per  is  ready  at  nine  or  ten,  of  which  the  children  never  partake. 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  299 

A  true  English  home  is  intelligent,  educated,  and  full  of  love.  All  that 
Painting,  Sculpture  and  Poetry,  can  do  to  beautify  it,  is  done,  and  Music 
lingers  in  it  as  naturally  as  sunshine  in  a  dell.  Those  who  say  the  English 
are  not  a  hospitable,  frank,  generous  people,  know  nothing  of  their  inner  life. 
A  railway  ride  across  from  Liverpool  to  Paris,  reveals  nothing  of  the  charac-. 
ter  of  the  people.  It  is  a  part  of  their  system  of  conventionalities  to  preserve 
a  cool  exterior  when  in  the  business  world.  Take  these  very  men  at  home, 
and  the  transition  is  almost  miraculous.  The  knitted  brow  is  smoothed  with 
smiles,  and  the  silent  tongue  has  become  voluble  with  joy.  And  the  in- 
fluence of  the  English  homes  upon  the  children — is  it  not  visible  over  the 
world  ?  Those  evening  joys  never  are  forgotten,  but  in  the  time  of  tempta- 
tion, gather  about  the  heart  of  youth,  like  a  group  of  angels,  guarding  it 
from  all  sin. 

By  the  gathering  round  the  winter  hearth,  By  the  smiling  eye  and  loving  tone, 

Whon  twilight  call'd  unto  winter  mirth;  Over  their  life  has  a  spell  heen  thrown. 

By  the  fairy  tale  or  legend  old  It  hath  brought  the  wanderer  o'er  the  seas 

In  that  ring  of  happy  faces  told ;  To  die  on  the  hills  of  his  own  fresh  breeze ; 

By  the  quiet  hour  when  hearts  unite  And  back  to  the  gates  of  his  father's  hall ; 

In  the  parting  prayer,  and  kind  good-night ;  It  hath  led  the  weeping  prodigal." 

Everybody  feels  an  interest  in  the  agriculture  of  England.  Rural  Eng- 
land calls  forth  the  rapturous  praises  of  all  travelers  from  other  lands.  The 
gentle  beauty  of  the  landscape,  the  depth  of  green  which  covers  her 
meadows,  the  thick  luxuriousness  of  her  woods  and  forests,  the  beauty  of 
her  horses,  the  huge  size  and  fatness  of  her  cattle,  the  noble  breeds  of  sheep 
that  cover  her  hill  sides,  and  the  perfection  even  of  her  swine,  are  attractions 
which  no  lover  of  country  scenes  can  resist.  To  an  American,  especially, 
there  is  an  additional  charm  which  springs  from  the  contrast  of  highly  culti- 
vated land,  with  the  primeval  forest,  and  often  rude  tillage  of  his  own  home 
Indeed,  fields  which  have  been  penetrated  by  the  plow  for  a  thousand  years, 
must  necessarily  wear  a  very  different  aspect  from  fields  which  still  show  in 
blackened  stumps,  how  lately  the  forest  was  dispossessed.  One  of  the  most 
striking  features  of  the  English  country,  is  the  abundance  and  magnificence 
o(  her  hedges.  Instead  of  gloom}'  walls  of  stone,  or  the  unpoetical  fence 
of  rails,  rich  luxuriant  boundaries  of  hawthorn,  or  buckthorn,  or  some  other 
variety  of  shrub,  impervious  to  light,  and  impenetrable  by  cattle,  or  even 
by  truant  schoolboys,  skirt  the  roads  and  lanes,  and  give  an  air  of  charming 
quiet  to  the  eye  of  the  traveler.  The  height  of  these  hedges  varies  from  five 
or  six,  to  fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  They  grow  rapidly,  and  in  a  very  few  years 
become  sufficiently  dense  to  answer  every  purpose  of  an  inclosure.  They 
also  attain  a  great  age,  hedges  having  been  pointed  out  to  me  beneath  the 
shade  of  which,  the  soldiers  of  Cromwell  rested  from  the  toil  of  a  trium- 
phant battle. 

The  hedges  in  the  Isle  of  Wight  excel  all  others  both  in  size  and  beauty.  There 
is,  however,  a  very  serious  objection  to  their  use,  arising  from  the  quantity  of 
ground  they  consume.  In  a  country,  where  every  foot  of  land  is  needed,  foi 
the  production  of  food,  for  its  starving  millions,  and  where  the  inclosures 
are  generally  small,  it  can  easily  be  seen,  that  many  hundred  thousands  of 


300  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

acres  must  be  rendered  useless  by  this  cause.  Though  the  landscape  suffeis 
immeasurably  from  their  destruction,  and  though  fences  of  stone  or  timber  are 
not  picturesque,  yet  the  more  prudent  among  the  owners  of  the  soil  are  begin- 
ning to  clip  away  their  haws  and  bucks,  and  substitute  fences  less  exacting 
of  room.  Much  of  the  beauty  of  rural  England  comes  from  a  cause  that 
calls  out  the  frequent  execrations  of  the  traveler  :  the  perpetual  rains,  dews, 
and  fogs,  which  so  annoy  him,  give  that  constant  greenness  to  the  grass, 
which  makes  England,  the  first  country  in  the  world,  for  the  beauty  of  its 
animals,  and  the  excellence  of  its  meats.  English  beef  is  known  the  world 
over — English  mutton  has  no  rival  ;  English  butter  and  cheese  is  the  stand- 
ard of  excellence  wherever  these  table  luxuries  are  known.  But  the  fields 
covered,  for  nine  or  ten  months  of  the  year,  with  living  green,  explains  it  all. 
No  burning  sun  withers  the  grass,  no  long  droughts  shed  a  summer  death 
over  vegetation,  as  it  does  with  us.  The  almost  daily  rains  which  pour  down 
from  the  willing  heavens,  compensates  the  farmer  for  the  drenching  he  may 
receive,  in  the  perennial  beauty  of  his  farm.  But  the  garden-like  appearance 
of  many  parts  of  England,  is  not  wholly  owing  to  the  kindness  of  nature. 
Agricultural  improvements  are  carried  on  to  an  extent  that  would  surprise 
even  the  most  enterprising  of  American  farmers.  The  land,  being  generally 
held  under  leases  from  wealthy  land-owners,  the  latter  are  willing  to  incui 
part  of  the  expense  of  improvements  which  give  a  permanent  addition  to  tht 
value  of  the  farm.  Thus  great  benefit  has  been  found  to  result  from  a 
thorough  system  of  drainage  in  clay  lands.  The  tiles  employed  in  this 
expensive  work  are  commonly  furnished  by  tne  landlord,  while  the  tenant 
furnishes  the  necessary  labor.  In  leases  which  run  from  thirty  to  ninety 
years,  or  even  when  the  lease  is  but  for  ten  years,  this  is  not  an  inequitable 
airangement.  The  present  benefit  accrues  to  the  tenant,  without  increase  of 
rent,  the  future  benefit  to  the  owner,  who  gets  an  advance  in  price  at  the  next 
letting. 

Farming  implements  of  all  sorts,  from  patent  drills  and  corn  crushers, 
to  expensive  reaping  and  mowing  machines,  form  part  of  the  customary  ap- 
paratus of  every  well-tilled  farm.  Indeed  so  far  is  this  carried,  that  steam  ia 
beginning  to  be  used  as  a  motive  power  in  several  sections  of  the  country. 
This  machinery  is  generally  more  cumbrous,  and  much  more  expensive,  than 
shnilar  machines  in  this  country.  Small  faimers,  of  course,  cannot  procure 
implements  of  this  description,  though  they  are  essential  to  profitable  till  age- 
There  is  at  present  a  strong  tendency  to  lease  land  in  large  farms,  and  it  is 
no  uncommon  thing  to  find  English  farmers,  who  do  not  own  a  foot  of  land, 
who  yet  pay  an  annual  rent  of  five,  ten,  and  twenty,  and  sometimes  even 
thirty  or  forty  thousand  dollars,  for  the  land  they  cultivate.  The  number  of 
small  farmers  is  rapidly  diminishing,  and,  under  the  operation  of  free  trade  in 
corn,  which  has  reduced  the  price  of  wheat  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-three 
per  cent.,  and  therefore  rendered  the  closest  calculation  necessary,  in  order 
for  the  agricultural  classes  to  live,  it  is  feared  this  valuable  class  of  the  popu- 
lation will  soon  be  utterly  extirpated.  When  this  end  is  accomplished,  there 
can  be  but  two  classes  of  agriculturists,  the  few  wealthy  farmers,  who  have 
capital  to  carry  on  the  business  with  every  facility  machinery  can  give,  and 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  301- 

the  many  farm  laborers,  who  receive  from  eight  to  eighteen  pence  a  day,  and 
who,  with  swch  a  pittance,  must  live  little  better  than  the  swine  he  feeds. 
Agiicultural  wealth  is  a  good  thing  for  a  nation,  but  agricultural  men  are 
better,  and  the  sacrifice  of  the  latter  to  the  former  does  not  portend  future 
prosperity  and  continued  greatness  to  this  heavily  burdened  people. 

The  perfection  of  agriculture  is  much  aided  by  the  abundance  of  her  rivers. 
Though  the  largest  would  be  thought  little  more  than  streams  with  us,  and 
though  others,  like  the  Avon  and  the  Trent,  of  which  all  the  world  have  heard, 
be  regarded  as  only  streamlets,  yet  their  number,  together  with  their  thousand 
little  tributaries,  which  water  almost  every  farm  of  any  considerable  size, 
give  every  advantage  for  thorough  irrigation.  It  is  said,  there  are  about 
fifteen  hundred  streams,  of  various  extent  and  importance,  in  Eng- 
land, and  that,  together,  they  constitute  the  best  river  system  in  the 
world. 

Even  more  important  to  the  mechanical  and  manufacturing  interests  of 
England,  than  to  her  agriculture,  is  her  abundance  of  water.  Wherever  a 
natural  fall  occurs,  or  wherever  one  can  be  made,  no  matter  at  what  expense, 
there  you  see  huge  mills,  factories,  furnaces,  glass-works,  and  every  variety 
of  establishment,  for  the  employment  of  the  poorly-paid  artisan,  and  the  profit 
of  the  great  factory  lords.  There,  the  vast  coal  fields,  with  a  supply  still 
lodged  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  sufficient  to  furnish  fuel  to  all  the  world  for 
more  than  twenty  thousand  years,  together  with  inexhaustible  beds  of  iron 
ore,  of  a  quality  surpassed  by  that  of  no  other  country,  complete  the 
natural  advantages  which  England  possesses  for  being  the  workshop  of  the 
world.  The  skill,  ingenuity,  and  enterprise  of  her  people,  have  nobly 
seconded  the  provisions  of  nature.  Whatever  the  art  of  man  can  make,  from 
the  most  massive  machinery  to  the  keenest  instrument  the  surgeon  wields, 
or  from  the  coarsest  fabric  of  wool  to  the  most  delicate  gauze  of  silk  or  linen, 
comes  from  her  inexhaustible  industry  and  invention.  The  wealth  and 
enterprise  of  the  most  commercial  nations  of  ancient  or  modern  times,  sink  into 
'nsignilicance,  when  compared  with  the  commercial  greatness  of  England. 
Her  inland  commerce  is  the  richest  and  most  active  of  any  in  the  world,  while 
the  foreign,  extends  to  every  port  accessible  over  the  whole  earth.  Everything 
for  which  a  demand  anywhere  exists — everything  for  which  a  demand  can 
be  created,  is  manufactured,  and  scattered  broadcast  over  all  lands.  Two 
hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  dollars  worth  of  exports  annually  go  forth  from 
this  vast  industrial  hive.  Her  cotton  manufactures  are  the  most  extensive 
of  the  whole,  and  alone  amount  to  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  ol 
dollars  yearly.  More  than  a  million  and  a  half  of  people  are  employed  in  the 
production  of  these  fabrics,  and  the  capital  devoted  to  this  single  branch  of 
industry  is  more  than  two  hundred  millions  of  dollars.  Half  a  million  of  peo- 
ple are  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  woolens.  Fifty  millions  of  dollars 
worth  of  silk  goods  are  annually  produced,  by  the  labor  of  three  hundred 
thousand  work  people.  Articles  made  of  leather  are  manufactured  to  the 
amount  of  one  hundred  millions  of  dollars.  Every  year,  four  hundred  and 
twenty  thousand  operatives,  turn  out  a  hundred  and  thirty  millions  of  dollars 
worth   of  whatever  is  made  of  metal.     Then  follow  immense  quantities  of 


302  A  NEW  ENGLANDER 

earthenware,  china,  glass,  watches,  jewelry,  paper,  soap,  and  almost  every 
article  which  the  ingenuity  of  man  has  devised.     • 

McCulloch,  the  eminent  statistical  writer,  concludes,  that  twelve  millions 
of  acres  are  cultivated  in  England,  of  which  nearly  four  million  acres  are  de- 
voted to  wheat,  three  millions  to  oats  and  beans,  one  million  three  hundred 
thousand  each  to  clover  and  roots,  (turnips,  potatoes,  etc.,)  nine  hundred 
thousand  acres  to  barley  and  rye,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  to  hops 
and  garden  produce;  beside  one  million  six  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  acres, 
which  lie  fallow,  annually.  The  same  writer  estimates  the  annual  value  of 
these  lands  at  £72,000,000,  and  the  seventeen  millions  of  acres  of  pasture 
lands  at  £59,000,000. 

While,  as  a  whole,  the  agricultural  processes  of  England  are  behind  those 
of  no  other  country  in  Europe,  and,  in  many  respects,  are  superior,  there 
are  certain  particulars  in  which  there  is  great  room  for  improvement,  such  as 
the  unnecessarily  massive  character  of  their  machinery,  the  employment  of 
more  strength  than  is  needed,  neglect,  in  many  parts,  of  drainage,  and,  as  a 
cause  of  most  of  their  difficulties,  a  reluctance  to  profit  by  the  experience  and 
inventions  of  other  nations.  This  trait  of  character  in  the  English  farme/  i« 
often  witnessed  among  those  of  them  who  have  been  compelled  to  emigrate  to 
this  country,  and  who  generally  show  little  disposition  to  avail  themselves  of 
the  experience  of  our  own  countrymen,  whose  familiarity  with  the  climaie, 
soil,  and  markets,  entitle  their  opinion  to  great  weight.  To  bestow  the  same 
labor  upon  land,  whose  price  in  fee-simple  is  only  five  shillings,  as  upon  land 
whose  annual  rent  is  twenty  or  thirty  dollars,  is  the  height  of  folly  ;  but  it  is 
not  always  easy  to  convince  the  English  farmer  of  his  error. 

In  treating  of  the  condition  of  religion  in  a  foreign  country,  a  writer  is  apt 
to  be  improperly  influenced  by  his  own  particular  views  upon  a  subject  which 
is  of  the  last  importance  to  mankind,  and  which  he  is  inclined  to  look  upon 
through  the  medium  of  the  prejudices  in  which  he  has  been  educated. 

The  religion  of  England,  as  recognized  by  the  State,  is  Episcopal,  that  is, 
it  consists,  so  far  as  organization  is  concerned,  of  a  national  church,  of  which 
the  king  or  queen,  for  the  time  being,  is  the  earthly  head,  subordinate  to 
whom  are  two  archbishoprics,  that  of  Canterbury  and  that  of  York,  twenty- 
six  bishoprics,  the  incumbents  of  most  of  which  have  seats  in  the  House  of 
Lords,  and  over  ten  thousand  parish  priests,  with  their  curates.  In  theory, 
this  number  of  clergy  of  all  grades  is  supposed  to  be  sufficient  for  the  reli- 
gious instruction  of  all  England. 

In  consonance  with  this  view,  there  is  a  perpetual  rent-charge  upon  the 
whole  country  of  one-tenth  of  its  produce,  for  the  maintenance  of  the  worship 
of  God.  In  many  cases,  this  tithe,  as  it  is  called,  has  been  commuted  for  a 
fixed  sum,  so  that  the  burden  upon  the  land  is  far  less  than  would  at  first  be 
supposed.  But  when  it  is  taken  into  account  that  a  large  portion  of  the  peo- 
ple are  conscientiously  opposed  to  any  connection  whatever  with,  or  depend- 
ence of  the  church  upon,  the  state,  as  well  as  to  the  constitution  and  claims  of 
the  Establishment,  the  hardship  of  this  compulsory  support  of  the  Church  of 
England  becomes  more  apparent.  Thousands  of  congregations  of  dissenters 
from  the  worship  recognized   by  law,  while  voluntarily  supporting  pastors 


IN  OLD  ENGLAND.  303 

and  teachers  of  their  own  choice,  are  also  compelled  to  pay  their  share  of  the 
expense  needed  for  the  maintenance  of  a  parish  minister  to  whose  doctrine  they 
may  have  conscientious  scruples,  and  to  whose  connection  with  the  state  their 
feelings  are  repugnant.  Beside  this  injustice,  the  parish  priest  is  rarely 
chosen  by  those  to  whom  he  ministers,  but  by  some  neighboring  landlord, 
in  whom,  as  chief  owner  of  the  soil,  the  advowson,  or  right  of  presentation, 
rests. 

Bad  as  this  state  of  things  is,  it  would  be  doing  great  injustice  to  the  pre- 
sent holders  of  ecclesiastical  tenures,  not  to  say,  that  as  a  body,  they  are  a 
useful,  exemplary,  and  religious  class  of  men.  To  their  honor  be  it  said, 
that  though  dependent  upon  the  wealthy  for  advancement,  they  are  not 
backward  to  rebuke  their  vices  ;  and  though  independent  of  the  poor,  they 
are  generally  ready  to  recognize  their  virtues,  and  to  advocate  their  true 
interests.  Yet,  a  change  for  the  better  is  most  desirable.  They  not  only 
should  feel  for,  but  they  should  sympathize  with,  the  poor.  Such  a  change 
in  the  practical  relations  of  the  priest  and  his  people  as  was  effected  in  part  by 
John  Wesley,  is  what  is  needed  to  remove  from  the  minds  of  the  prejudiced 
and  the  ignorant,  the  impression,  that  all  for  which  the  sacred  shepherd  cares 
is  the  fleece  of  the  sheep  intrusted  to  his  oversight.  Such  a  change,  the  pro- 
gress of  events  indicates  to  be  near  at  hand.  The  increasing  strength  and 
influence  of  the  dissenters,  the  progress  of  just  and  liberal  ideas,  and  the  con- 
viction of  thousands  of  intelligent  minds,  that  religion  will  flourish  best  as  it 
did  in  apostolic  days,  without  the  aid  of  the  secular  power,  conspire  to 
weaken  the  established  church,  and  to  indicate  the  near  approach  of  that  time 
when  human  laws  will  no  longer  make  hypocrites,  by  granting  peculiar  protis 
or  honor  to  the  advocates  of  any  single  form  of  religious  organization.  It 
ought  also  to  be  said,  in  honor  of  the  English  nation,  that  though  tenacious 
of  the  privileges  of  the  Established  Church,  complete  toleration  is  granted  to 
every  other  faith.  Jews  may  deny  the  Lord  that  bought  them  ;  infidels  may 
reject  the  inspiration  of  the  Scriptures  of  the  Old  and  New  Testament  ; 
Quakers  may  exalt  the  law  written  upon  the  heart  over  the  printed  page ; 
independency  may  scoff  at  miters  and  altars,  and  even  Mormons  may  impiously 
teach,  that  Joe  Smith  was  sent  into  the  world  to  complete  what  our  Savior 
began,  yet  they  all  possess  an  equal  right  to  make  all  the  converts  they  can, 
and  to  make  them  too,  out  of  the  bosom  of  the  Establishment,  and  no  law  will 
punish  their  efforts,  or  hinder  their  success.  Much  has  been  said,  most 
unjustly,  against  the  Establishment,  while,  in  reality,  the  worst  that  in  justice 
can  be  affirmed,  is,  that  she  possesses  a  revenue,  independent  of  the  will  of 
the  people,  of  twenty  or  thirty  millions  of  dollars,  and  that  she  has  been  built 
up  on  the  erroneous  idea,  that  religion,  if  left  to  their  voluntary  support, 
would  speedily  be  rejected.  It  is  one  of  the  noblest  prerogatives  of  the 
American  people,  to  demonstrate  the  truth  of  the  doctrine  universally  held  by 
our  own  people,  that  religion  is  a  necessity  of  human  nature,  and  will  be  sup- 
ported by  the  spontaneous  offerings  of  every  free  people. 

Yet  there  is  one  terrible  drawback  on  the  prosperity  of  England,  which  is 
becoming  continually  more  burdensome,  and  that  is  her  poor  laws.     Whil 
England  remained  a  Catholic  country,  the  clergy  were  regarded  as  the  hea 


304  A  NEW  ENGLANDER  IN  OLD  ENGLAND. 

venly  appointed  almoners  of  the  bounty  of  the  rich  toward  the  poor.  But 
when  the  large  endowments  of  the  church  were  made  over  to  the  grasping 
nobles  and  courtiers  of  Henry  VIII,  the  reformed  church  and  clergy  had  not 
the  means  of  supplying  the  necessities  of  the  destitute.  The  monasteries  and 
convents  were  shut  up,  and  the  poor  were  compelled  to  depend  upon  the 
casual  benefactions  of  the  rich.  The  natural  consequence  was,  that  surh 
charity  was  not  sufficient  for  the  relief  of  the  destitute,  many  of  whcm 
resorted  to  violence,  robbery  and  murder,  in  order  to  fill  their  stomachs.  To 
such  an  extent  was  this  true,  that  over  eight  thousand  persons  were  hung  for 
robbery  in  a  single  year,  in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.  The  reign  of  this 
monarch's  daughter,  Elizabeth,  was  signalized  by  the  passage  of  the  first  pool 
laws  known  in  England.  The  fact  that  such  aid  was  made  compulsory  by 
the  law,  induced  increasing  numbers  to  rely  upon  it,  instead  of  relying  upon 
their  own  exertions,  when  the  times  were  bad  and  food  was  dear.  No 
inducement  was  held  out  to  the  poor  to  lay  by  in  prosperity  for  a  season  of 
adversity;  for  the  law  assured  them  of  a  support,  come  what  might.  The 
result  of  this  policy  is  seen,  in  a  larger  number  of  paupers  in  England  than  in 
any  of  the  other  countries  of  Europe.  Some  years  of  scarcity  have  witnessed 
one-sixth  of  the  entire  people  dependent  upon  the  exertions  of  the  rest.  What 
will  finally  come  out  of  this,  no  man  can  say.  The  evil  is  gigantic,  and  some 
remedy  must  be  found,  or  her  poor  laws  will  prove  her  undoing. 

Our  account  of  England  must  close  with  a  brief  notice  of  her  leading 
towns  :  among  her  great  manufacturing  cities,  Manchester,  Birmingham, 
Leeds,  and  Sheffield  stand  foremost.  The  first  is  the  great  place  for  the  pro- 
duction of  cotton  goods.  Birmingham  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  manufacture 
of  iron  ware  of  every  kind.  Leeds  is  the  center  of  the  woolen  business,  and 
Sheffield  is  known  to  every  school-boy  as  the  place  where  the  best  knives  are 
made,  and  to  those  of  greater  age,  as  possessing  facilities  for  turning  out 
the  most  perfect  razors  that  ever  passed  over  the  face  of  man.  In  addition 
to  these  towns,  Coventry  is  celebrated  for  its  ribbons  and  watches,  Axminster, 
Wilton,  and  Kidderminster  for  its  carpets,  Bradford  for  its  cloths,  Notting- 
ham for  its  hosiery,  and  Spitalfields  for  its  silks.  But  it  would  be  in  vain  to 
enumerate  all  the  towns  of  England  which  are  celebrated  for  their  productions. 
Wherever  there  are  men,  there  is  industry  in  some  form,  and  far  distant  be 
the  day  when  the  land  of  our  forefathers  shall  exhibit  any  other  spectacle  than 
that  of  a  country  filled  with  an  industrious,  intelligent,  and  moral  people. 
Whoever  loves  his  kind  may  well  say,  in  the  language  of  one  of  its 
greatest  poets—  "  England,  with  all  thy  faults,  I  love  thee  still." 


ADVENTURES  AND  DISCOVERIES 


MUNGO  PARK  AND   OTHERS  IN  AFRICA. 


CHAPTER   I, 


Peculiar  Condition  of  Africa— Knowledge  of  the  Ancients  respecting  this  Continent— Inva- 
sion by  the  Arabs — Discoveries  of  the  Portuguese — Western  Africa — Southern  Africa- 
Eastern  Africa — Central  Africa — Ledyard,  the  American  Traveler — Mungo  Park's  First 
Journey— He  undertakes  to  explore  Africa — Departure — 111  Treatment  at  Bondou  and 
Joag — Kooniakary — Captivity  among  the  Moors — Escape — The  Niger — Sego — Sansanding 
— Silla — Obliged  to  Return — Various  Misfortunes — Distressed  State — Finds  Belief  at 
Kamalia — Arrival  in  England. 

The  vast  continent  of  Africa, 
comprising  nearly  one  fourth  of  the 
entire  land  area  of  the  globe,  has 
presented  greater  obstacles  to 
human  enterprise  than  any  other 
equal  portion  of  the  earth's  sur- 
face. The  peculiar  physical  con- 
dition of  Africa  has  operated  as 
one  cause  of  her  isolation  from 
the  rest  of  the  world.  The  other 
portions  of  our  earth,  situated 
under  the  tropics,  consist,  gener- 
ally, either  of  sea,  or  of  narrow 
peninsular  tracts  of  land,  and 
clusters  of  islands,  blown  upon 
by  the  sea-breeze.  Africa,  on 
the  other  hand,  presents  scarcely 
one  o*ulf  or  sea-break  in  its  vast 

o 

outline. 

A  consequence  of  this  compact 

geographical  shape  of  a  conti- 
nent, the  greater  part  of  which  is  within  the  torrid  zone,  is  its  subjection, 
throughout  its  entire  extent,  to  the  unmitigated  influence  of  the  sun's  heat. 
All  that  is  noxious  in  climate,  we  are  accustomed  to  associate  with  Africa. 
Here  stretching  out  into  a  boundless  desert,  where  for  days  the  traveler  toils 
amid  burning  sands  under  a  stifling  sky  ;  there  covered  with  a  dense  and 
swampy  jungle,  breathing  out  pestilence,  and  teeming  with  all  repulsive 
forms  of  animal  life,  the  African  continent  seems  to  defy  the  encroachments 
20  305 


306  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

of  European  civilization.  And  although,  probably,  our  ideas  of  these  Afri- 
can horrors  will  be  modified  by  more  accurate  knowledge,  enough  seems 
ascertained  to  prove  that  the  laying  open  of  interior  Africa  to  the  general 
flood  of  human  influences,  will  be  among  the  last  achievements  of  the  explo- 
ring spirit  of  our  race. 

Notwithstanding  the  difficulties  which  lie  in  the  way,  Africa  has  at  all  times 
been  an  object  of  curiosity  and  interest  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  civilized  parts 
of  the  earth  ;  and  scientific  zeal,  the  desire  of  extending  traffic,  and  even  the 
mere  thirst  for  adventure,  have  prompted  many  expeditions  for  the  purpose 
of  exploring  its  coasts,  and  making  discoveries  in  its  interior.  The  ancients 
appear  to  have  acquired  much  knowledge  of  Africa,  which  was  afterward 
lost,  and  had  to  be  re-acquired  by  the  moderns  for  themselves.  The  African 
coasts  of  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Red  Sea  were  not  only  familiar  to  the 
ancient  geographers,  but  were  inhabited  by  populations  which  performed  a 
conspicuous  part  in  the  general  affairs  of  the  world,  and  ranked  high  in  the 
scale  of  civilization — the  Egyptians,  Carthaginians,  etc.  Nor,  if  we  may 
believe  the  evidence  which  exists  in  favor  of  the  accounts  of  the  circumnavi- 
gation of  Africa  by  ancient  navigators,  were  the  other  coasts  of  the  continent — 
those,  namely,  which  are  washed  by  the  Atlantic  and  the  Indian  Ocean — 
unvisited  by  northern  ships.  Regarding  the  interior  of  Africa,  too,  the 
knowledge  possessed  by  the  ancients,  although  very  meager  in  itself,  was 
nearly  as  definite  as  that  possessed  by  their  modern  descendants,  until  within 
a  comparatively  recent  period.  As  far  as  the  northern  borders  of  the  Great 
Desert,  their  own  personal  observation  might  be  said  to  extend,  and  respect- 
ing the  wandering  tribes  of  black  and  savage  people  living  farther  to  the 
south,  they  had  received  many  vague  notices.  The  Nile  being  one  of  the 
best-known  rivers  of  the  ancient  world,  its  origin  and  course  were  matters  of 
great  interest,  and  the  African  geography  of  the  ancients,  in  general,  may  be 
said  to  consist  of  speculations  respecting  this  extraordinary  river.  The  first 
mention  made  of  the  other  great  African  river,  the  Niger,  is  by  Ptolemy,  who 
lived  seventy  years  after  Christ.  Ptolemy  believed  that  this  river  discharged 
itself  ultimately  into  the  Nile  ;  others,  however,  did  not  admit  this  conclusion, 
and  acknowledged  that  the  real  course  of  the  Niger  was  a  mystery. 

Such  are  some  of  the  most  prominent  points  in  the  ancient  geography  of 
Africa.  How  wild  and  inaccurate  must  have  been  the  notions  entertained 
respecting  the  shape  and  total  extent  of  the  African  continent,  may  be  judged 
from  the  fact,  that  one  geographer  describes  it  as  an  irregular  figure  of  four 
sides,  the  south  side  running  nearly  parallel  to  the  equator,  but  considerably 
to  the  north  of  it !  Others,  again,  held  forth  the  fearful  picture  of  Centra] 
Africa  as  a  vast  burning  plain,  in  which  no  green  thing  grew,  and  into  which 
no  living  being  could  penetrate  ;  and  this  hypothesis  of  an  uninhabitable  tor- 
rid zone  became  at  length  the  generally  received  one. 

The  invasion  of  Africa  by  the  Arab  races  in  the  seventh  century,  wrought 
a  grsat  change  in  the  condition  of  the  northern  half  of  the  continent.  Found- 
ing powerful  states  along  the  Mediterranean  coasts,  these  enterprising  Ma- 
hommedans,  or  Moors,  as  they  were  called,  were  able,  by  means  of  the  camel, 
to  effect  a  passage  across  the  Desert,  which  had  baffled  the  ancients,  and  to 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  307 

hold  intercourse  with  the  negroes  who  lived  on  its  southern  border  along  the 
banks  of  the  Niger  and  the  shores  of  Lake  Tchad.  In  some  of  these  negro 
states  the  Arabs  obtained  a  preponderance,  and  with  others  they  carried  on  an 
influential  and  lucrative  commerce.  The  consequence  was  a  mixture  of  Moor- 
ish and  negro  blood  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  countries  of  Central  Africa 
bordering  on  the  Great  Desert,  as  well  as  a  general  diffusion  of  certain  scraps 
of  the  Mahommedan  religion  among  the  negro  tribes.  Hence  it  is  that,  in 
the  innermost  recesses  of  interior  Africa  at  the  present  day,  we  find  the  ne- 
groes partly  professing  Paganism,  partly  Mahommedanism,  but  all  practicing 
ceremonies  and  superstitions  in  which  we  observe  the  Pagan  spirit  with  a 
slight  Mahommedan  tincture. 

It  was  not  till  the  fifteenth  century  that  the  career  of  modern  European 
discovery  in  Africa  commenced.  The  Portuguese,  leading  the  van  of  the  na- 
tions of  Europe  in  that  great  movement  of  maritime  enterprise  which  consti- 
tutes so  signal  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  modern  society,  selected  the  western 
coast  of  Africa  as  the  most  promising  tract  along  which  to  prosecute  discovery; 
their  intercourse  with  the  Moors  having  made  them  aware  that  gold  and  other 
precious  commodities  were  to  be  procured  in  that  direction.  In  the  year  1433 
Cape  Bojador  was  passed  by  a  navigator  called  Gilianez  ;  and  others  suc- 
ceeding him,  passed  Cape  Blanco,  and,  exploring  the  entire  coast  of  the 
Desert,  reached  at  length  the  fertile  shores  of  Gambra  and  Guinea.  The 
sudden  bending  inward  of  the  coast-line  at  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  gave  a  new 
direction  and  a  new  impulse  to  the  activity  of  the  Portuguese.  Having  no 
definite  ideas  of  the  breadth  of  the  African  continent,  they  imagined  that,  by 
continuing  their  course  eastward  along  the  Gulf,  they  would  arrive  at  the 
renowned  country  of  the  great  Prester  John,  a  fabulous  personage,  who  was 
believed  to  reign  with  golden  sway  over  an  immense  and  rich  territory,  situ- 
ated no  one  could  tell  exactly  where,  but  which  some  contended  could  be  no 
other  than  Abyssinia.  The  Portuguese,  while  prosecuting  their  discoveries 
along  the  African  coast,  did  not  neglect  means  for  establishing  a  commercial 
intercourse  with  those  parts  of  the  coast  which  they  had  already  explored. 
Settlements  or  factories  for  the  convenience  of  the  trade  in  gold,  ivory,  gum, 
different  kinds  of  timber,  and  eventually,  also  in  slaves,  were  founded  at 
various  points  of  the  coast  between  Cape  Verde  and  Biafra.  Various  mission- 
ary settlements  were  likewise  founded  for  the  dissemination  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  faith  among  the  natives. 

The  chimera  of  Prester  John  was  succeeded  by  the  more  rational  hope  of 
effecting  a  passage  to  India  by  way  of  Southern  Africa.  This  great  feat, 
accordingly,  was  at  length  achieved  by  Vasco  de  Gama,  who,  in  1497,  four 
years  after  the  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus,  persisted  in  his  course  to 
the  south  so  far  as  to  double  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  point  the  way  north- 
ward into  the  Indian  Ocean.  By  his  voyages,  and  those  of  his  successors, 
the  eastern  coast  of  Africa,  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  through  the  Mo- 
zambique channel  to  the  Red  Sea,  was  soon  defined  as  accurately  as  the 
western  coast  had  been  by  the  voyages  of  his  predecessors  ;  and  thus  the 
entire  outline  and  shape  of  the  African  continent  were  at  length  made  known. 
This  great  service  to  science  and  to  the  human  race,  was  rendered,  it  ought 


308  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

to  be  remarked,  by  the  Portuguese,  who  may  be  said  to  have  conducted  the 
enterprise  of  the  circumnavigation  of  Africa  from  its  beginning  to  its  end  ; 
and  this  is  perhaps  the  greatest  contribution  which  the  Portuguese,  as  a  na- 
tion, have  made  to  the  general  fund  of  human  knowledge. 

The  outline  of  Africa  having  thus  been  laid  down  on  the  maps,  and  the 
extent  of  its  surface  ascertained,  the  attention  of  discoverers  was  next  turned 
to  its  interior.  The  efforts  made  by  the  Portuguese  to  explore  Nigritia  in 
search  of  Prester  John  have  been  already  alluded  to  ;  but  it  was  by  the  other 
nations  of  Europe,  especially  the  English,  the  French,  and  the  Dutch,  who, 
on  the  decline  of  the  Portuguese  power,  began  to  compete  with  each  other 
in  this  field  of  enterprise,  that  the  greatest  advances  were  made  in  the  know- 
ledge of  the  geography  of  the  various  parts  of  Africa,  and  of  the  races 
which  inhabit  it.  For  these  last  two  hundred  years,  discoverers  and  travel- 
ers of  various  nations  have  been  adding  to  our  information  respecting  this 
vast  continent;  and  in  consequence  of  their  joint  labors,  some  in  one  part, 
some  in  another,  we  are  now  able  to  form  an  idea,  very  general,  it  must  be 
admitted,  but  still  tolerably  distinct,  of  Africa  and  its  inhabitants.  In  pre- 
senting a  summary  view  of  the  progress  of  African  discovery,  from  the  pe- 
riod of  the  final  circumnavigation  of  the  continent,  and  its  correct  delineation 
in  outline  down  to  the  present  time,  it  will  be  advantageous  to  take  up  its 
divisions  in  the  following  order : — Western  Africa,  Southern  Africa,  Eastern 
Africa,  Central  Africa  or  Nigritia,  and  Northern  Africa,  including  the  Great 
Desert. 

Western  Africa. — The  shores  of  Western  Africa,  especially  those  which 
border  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  have  retained  to  the  present  time  the  distinction 
which  they  acquired  at  the  period  of  their  discovery  by  the  Portuguese,  of 
being  the  market  which  European  ships  visit  for  African  commodities. 

The  Portuguese,  as  we  have  already  mentioned,  were  the  first  to  plant 
factories  along  this  coast,  from  the  southern  termination  of  the  Great  Desert 
to  Congo,  and  other  maritime  districts  south  of  the  equator.  Allured  by  the 
profits  of  the  slave  trade,  other  European  nations  hastened  to  occupy  stations 
on  the  same  coast ;  and  toward  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century,  the  num- 
ber of  European  forts  and  factories,  round  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea, 
were  said  to  be  forty  in  all ;  of  which  fifteen  belonged  to  the  Dutch,  fourteen 
to  the  English,  four  to  the  Portuguese,  four  to  the  Danes,  and  three  to  the 
French.  Deriving  its  principal  commercial  importance  from  the  trade  in  ne- 
groes, which  this  chain  of  forts  was  intended  to  guard,  Western  Africa  has, 
since  the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade,  fallen  considerably  out  of  view.  Ac- 
cording to  the  best  information,  however,  that  has  been  obtained,  "the  terri- 
tory is  in  the  possession  of  a  number  of  petty  states,  many  of  which  compose 
aristocratic  republics,  turbulent,  restless,  licentious,  and  generally  rendered 
more  depraved  by  their  intercourse  with  Europeans." 

Proceeding  from  north  to  south,  let  us  briefly  notice  the  various  countries 
of  the  western  coast,  with  the  tribes  which  inhabit  them. 

The  most  northerly  is  Senegambia,  the  name  applied  to  the  district  watered 
by  the  two  rivers  Senegal  and  Gambia,  commencing  from  the  Desert,  and  ex- 
tending as  far  ar  the  Grain  Coast.     According  to  Mungo  Park,  the  territory 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  309 

is  inhabited  by  four  tribes — the  Feloops,  the  Jaloffs,  the  Foulahs,  and  the 
Mandingoes.  In  all  of  these  tribes,  part  are  Mahommedans  by  profession  ; 
but  the  great  body  of  the  people  are  Pagans,  called  by  their  Mahommedan 
brethren  Kaffirs,  or  infidels,  and  practicing  the  Fetish  form  of  worship  ;  that 
is,  the  worship  of  inanimate  objects.  The  Feloops  were  described  by  Park 
as  a  gloomy  and  revengeful  race,  but  honorable  and  faithful  in  their  dealings 
with  friends  ;  the  Jaloffs  as  an  active  and  warlike  people,  with  jet-black  skins, 
but  among  the  most  handsome  of  the  negroes,  divided  into  several  principali- 
ties, and  excelling  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton  cloths  ;  the  Foulahs — a  race 
of  more  importance  in  Africa  than  Park  imagined — as  of  a  tawny  complexion, 
with  soft  silky  hair  and  pleasing  features,  much  attached  to  a  pastoral  life  ; 
and  the  Mandingoes,  who  are  by  far  the  most  numerous  people  in  this  part 
of  Africa,  as  of  a  mild,  sociable,  and  obliging  disposition,  the  men  commonly 
above  the  middle  size,  well-shaped,  strong,  and  capable  of  enduring  great 
labor;  the  women  good-natured,  sprightly,  and  agreeable. 

The  tract  of  country  adjoining  Senegambia  on  the  south,  and  stretching 
along  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  from  the  Grain  Coast,  to  the  Bight  of  Biafra,  has 
been  named  Upper  Guinea,  and  includes  beside  the  colonies  of  Sierra  Leone, 
Liberia,  and  the  Ivory  and  Gold  Coasts,  noted  for  their  unhealthiness,  three 
native  states — namely,  Ashantee,  Dahomey,  and  Benin.  Our  information  re- 
specting these  negro  kingdoms  is  derived  from  the  discoveries  of  curious  tra- 
velers, among'  whom  may  be  mentioned  Mr.  Norris,  who  undertook  a  journey 
to  the  coast  of  the  king  of  Dahomey,  in  1792,  with  the  hope  of  making  ar- 
rangements beneficial  to  English  trade  ;  Mr.  Bowditch,  who  took  part  in  a 
mission  for  a  similar  purpose  to  the  king  of  Ashantee,  in  1817  ;  and  Captain 
Adams,  who  visited  Benin  at  a  later  period. 

Ashantee  is  described  as  a  hilly  country,  well-watered  by  numerous 
streams,  and  covered  almost  entirely  with  that  rich  vegetable  luxuriance, 
the  labor  of  removing  which,  it  has  been  observed,  is  as  severe  for  the  agri- 
culturist as  the  opposite  labor  of  fertilizing  barren  lands.  The  Ashantee 
negro  clears  the  land  by  means  of  fire,  thus  both  removing  the  rank  vegeta- 
tion, and  spreading  the  soil  with  a  rich  manure,  which  yields  two  crops  a  year. 
Beside  innumerable  kinds  of  fruit  and  flowers,  and  all  the  giant  trees  of  the 
tropics,  the  productions  are  sugar,  tobacco,  maize,  rice,  yams,  ami  potatoes. 
All  kinds  of  tropical  animals,  likewise,  swarm  in  Ashantee.  The  human  inha- 
bitants of  the  whole  region  or  empire,  are  estimated  at  three  millions,  and 
though  possessing  in  a  marked  degree,  some  of  the  worst  negro  characterist- 
ics, they  are,  upon  the  whole,  more  advanced  than  most  of  the  African  tribes, 
not  only  practicing  a  regular  and  tolerably  skilled  agriculture,  but  showing 
considerable  ingenuity  in  several  mechanical  arts — as  dying,  tanning,  pottery, 
weaving,  and  the  manufacture  of  instruments  and  ornaments  out  of  gold, 
iron,  etc.  They  are  also  cleanly  and  well  clad,  and  pay  some  attention  to 
the  building  and  decoration  of  their  houses.  Their  government  is  an  abso- 
lute monarchy,  or  nearly  so  ;  the  classes  of  society  under  the  monarch  being 
cabocces  or  nobles,  gentry,  traders,  and  slaves.  Polygamy  is  allowed,  but 
no  one  but  the  king  possesses  many  wives.  The  royal  number  of  wives  is 
said  to  be  precisely  three  thousand   three  hundred  and    thirty-three,   who. 


310  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

however,  act  also  in  other  capacities,  as  body  guards,  etc.  The  most  horri- 
ble of  the  Ashantee  customs  is,  that  of  sacrificing  a  number  of  persons  on 
the  death  of  every  man  of  rank ;  the  number  of  victims  being  regarded  not 
only  as  indicating  the  dignity  of  the  deceased  in  this  world,  but  as  deter- 
mining his  rank  in  the  next.  The  belief  in  a  future  state  is  one  of  the  strong- 
est of  their  religious  ideas.  Regarding  the  origin  of  mankind,  they,  as  well 
as  other  negro  tribes  of  the  Guinea  coast,  have  the  following  singular  tradi- 
tion :  The  Great  Spirit,  they  say,  having  created  three  white  men  and  women, 
and  as  many  black,  offered  the  blacks  the  first  choice  of  two  articles  which 
he  held  in  his  hand,  one  of  which  was  a  calabash,  which  contained  gold, 
iron,  and  all  the  choice  products  of  the  earth,  in  consequence  of  which,  the 
negro  to  this  day,  possesses  those  blessings  in  abundance;  while  the  sealed 
paper  falling  to  the  share  of  the  whites,  has  conferred  on  them  the  higher 
gift  of  knowledge,  wherewith  the  contents  of  the  calabash  may  be  turned  to 
account.  This  admission  of  the  superiority  of  the  whites,  on  the  part  of  the 
Ashantees,  appears  also  in  their  belief  that  the  good  negroes  become  white 
in  the  future  state.  No  part  of  Africa,  or  even  of  the  world,  is  believed  to 
be  richer  in  gold  than  Ashantee. 

The  kingdom  of  Dahomey,  situated  eastward  from  Ashantee,  resembles  it 
in  the  general  aspect  of  the  soil,  and  in  many  other  particulars.  It  appears 
to  be  a  recent  negro  state,  formed  by  the  conquest  of  a  number  of  tribes,  by 
a  powerful  race  from  the  interior.  The  government  of  the  Dahomans,  like 
that  of  the  Ashantees,  is  an  absolute  monarchy;  but  the  Dahoman  king  seems 
to  be  still  more  despotic  in  practice  than  his  Ashantee  neighbor.  When  in 
obedience  to  some  superstitious  freak,  he  wishes  to  send  a  message  to  some 
of  his  deceased  relatives  in  the  other  world,  he  delivers  the  message  to  some 
attendant  negro,  whose  head  is  immediately  cut  off,  as  a  means  of  forwarding 
him  to  his  destination;  if  the  monarch  has  forgot  any  part  of  his  communi- 
cation, he  immediately  adds  a  postscript,  by  a  second  messenger.  The 
bloody  custom  of  sacrificing  a  number  of  victims  on  the  occasion  of  a  great 
man's  funeral,  is  practiced  at  Dahomey  as  well  as  at  Ashantee.  The  Daho- 
mans have  similar  religious  beliefs  with  the  Ashantees  ;  their  principal  object 
of  worship,  appropriately  enough,  is  the  tiger.  Of  late  years  some  improve- 
ment is  believed  to  have  taken  place  in  the  habits  of  this  fierce  African  race. 

Passing  from  Upper  Guinea,  of  which  Ashantee  and  Dahomey  are  the 
principal  territories,  we  come  next  to  Lower  or  South  Guinea,  which  extends 
from  the  Bight  of  Benin  to  the  commencement  of  Southern  Africa,  and  in- 
cludes the  provinces  or  districts  of  Loango,  Congo,  Angola,  and  Benguela. 
The  whole  of  this  tract  of  coast,  presents  the  aspect  of  a  country  degraded 
and  deterioated  by  intercourse  with  Europeans,  to  a  condition  worse  than  its 
original  negro  barbarism.  Here,  more  than  three  centuries  ago,  the  Portu- 
guese established  themselves  partly  as  missionaries  of  Christianity,  and 
partly  as  traders  in  slaves;  and  while  their  efforts  in  the  former  capacity, 
directed  as  they  are  by  the  most  absurd  and  wretched  bigotry,  produced 
almost  no  beneficial  effect ;  the  curse  of  the  slave  traffic,  which  they  imported, 
has  adhered  to  the  country  with  a  tenacity  which  all  the  rigors  of  modern 
philanthropy  cannot  overcome.     It  is  from  these  coasts  that  the  exportation 


ADVENTURES  IN   AFRICA.  311 

of  negroes  is  said  to  go  on  at  the  present  time,  more  busily  than  it  did  before 
the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade.  The  characteristics  of  the  coast,  and  of  the 
population  which  inhabits  it,  are  determined  by  the  brutal  traffic  of  which  it  is 
the  scene.  It  is  impossible,  within  our  limits,  to  give  a  description  of  the 
whole  line  of  shore,  of  the  small  port-towns  scattered  along  it,  with  their 
motley  population  of  negroes,  mulattoes,  and  slave-dealing  Portuguese,  or  of 
the  negro  districts  in  the  interior,  where  the  natives  fight  and  kidnap  each 
other  to  supply  the  demand  for  slaves  on  the  coast. 

Southern  Africa. — Occupied  with  their  lucrative  commerce  on  the  fertile 
coasts  of  Western  Africa,  the  Portuguese  scarcely  bestowed  a  thought  on  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  continent,  the  aspect  of  which  was  less  promising  ; 
and  accordingly,  for  a  centun^  and  a  half  after  the  famous  voyage  of  Vasco 
de  Gama,  the  district  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  remained  a  blank  waste 
to  Europeans.  The  prudent  and  enterprising  Dutch,  however,  having  em- 
barked in  the  East  India  trade,  soon  discovered  the  importance  of  the  Cape 
as  a  commercial  station,  and  in  the  year  1650,  they  founded  Cape  Town,  the 
capital  of  Cape  Colony,  the  most  flourishing  of  all  the  European  settlements 
in  Africa.  Encroaching,  without  the  least  scruple,  on  the  territories  of  the 
natives,  the  Dutch  extended  their  possessions  so  as  to  include  an  area  of  up- 
ward of  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  square  miles,  some  spots  of  which 
were  cultivated  into  immense  grazing  farms.  Under  the  Dutch  the  natives 
suffered  dreadfully,  numbers  of  them  being  reduced  to  bondage,  and  others 
driven  into  the  interior  to  find  subsistence  as  best  they  could.  In  1795  the 
colony  was  taken  by  the  English  :  it  was  restored  again  to  the  Dutch  in  1800. 

A  second  time,  however,  it  was  taken  by  the  English,  to  whom  it  was  finally 
ceded  in  the  year  1815,  and  is  now,  accordingly,  an  English  possession. 
Both  before  and  after  the  cession  of  Cape  Colony  to  the  British,  various 
travelers  have  undertakeu  journeys  among  the  tribes  inhabiting  this  extremity 
of  Africa  ;  and  no  accounts  are  more  full  and  interesting  than  those  of  the  va- 
rious missionaries,  who,  since  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  have 
employed  themselves  in  the  arduous  task  of  carrying  the  doctrines  of 
Christianity  into  the  heart  of  the  native  tribes.  The  native  tribes  of  Southern 
Africa  are  two  in  number — the  Hottentots  and  the  Caffres  ;  the  former,  so  far 
as  not  extirpated,  inhabiting  the  tract  of  country  adjacent  to  Cape  Colony  on 
the  western  coast,  the  other,  the  tract  adjacent  to  the  colony  on  the  eastern 
coast. 

Of  the  Hottentots  of  the  colony  and  its  vicinity,  it  is  said  that  they  have 
"  become  noted  and  almost  proverbial  for  presenting  man  in  his  lowest  estate, 
and  under  the  closest  alliance  with  the  inferior  orders  of  creation.  It  must, 
indeed,  be  admitted,  that  they  take  particular  pains  to  render  their  external 
appearance  the  most  hideous  that  the  human  body  can  possibly  present. 
Grease  is  poured  over  their  persons  in  copious  streams,  which,  being  exposed 
to  the  perpetual  action  of  smoke,  forms  on  their  skin  a  black  and  shining 
cake,  through  which  the  native  color,  a  yellowish  brown,  is  scarcely  ever  per- 
ceptible. Grease,  in  Africa,  forms  the  chief  distinction  of  rank — the  rick 
besmearing  themselves  with  fresh  butter,  while  the  poor  are  obliged  to  tea) 
the  fat  from  the  bowels  of  slaughtered  animals.     They  assign  as  a  reason  foi 


312  ADVENTURES   IN    AFRICA. 

this  singular  practice,  an  effect  which  has  been  readily  admitted  by  judicious 
travelers — namely,  that  such  a  coating  has,  in  this  climate,  a  most  salutary 
influence  in  defending  them  from  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  in  averting  many 
cutaneous  disorders.  Nature  seems  to  have  aided  the  task  of  disfiguring 
them,  by  covering  the  head  with  irregular  tufts  of  hard  and  coarse  hair,  and 
causing  singular  prominences,  composed  of  fat,  to  jut  out  in  parts  where  they 
are  least  ornamental.  Nor  do  their  habits  of  life  present  anything  to  redeem 
this  outward  deformity.  Their  kraals,  or  villages,  consist  of  a  confused 
crowd  of  little  conical  hovels,  composed  of  twigs  and  earth,  in  which  large 
families  sit  and  sleep,  without  having  room  to  stand  upright.  The  fire,  in 
the  middle,  fills  these  mansions  with  thick  smoke,  the  floors  being  deeply  co- 
vered with  every  species  of  filth.  At  festivals,  when  an  ox  or  a  sheep  is 
killed,  the  Hottentots  rip  open  the  belly,  tear  out  the  entrails,  which  they 
throw  on  the  coals,  and  feast  on  them  before  the  animal  is  completely  dead. 
Yet  they  are  a  friendty,  hospitable  race,  living  together  in  the  greatest  affec- 
tion and  harmony.  The  sluggish  and  senseless  stupidity  with  which  they 
have  been  taxed,  seems  to  have  been  in  a  great  measure  produced  by  their 
degrading  subjection  to  the  Dutch  boors.  It  has  been  asserted  that  the  Hot- 
tentots are  destitute  of  all  ideas  of  religion  ;  but  this  is  not  correct.  It  is  as- 
certained that  they  believe  in  a  Supreme  Being,  as  well  as  in  an  inferior 
spirit,  of  a  malignant  nature;  and  that  they  practice  certain  superstitious  rites, 
as  are  usual  among  savages. 

Such  is  the  description  given  of  the  Hottentots,  as  they  were  under  the 
Dutch  rule.  Since  the  Cape  came  into  the  possession  of  the  British,  they  have 
not  been  treated  with  the  same  neglect  and  cruelty  as  they  experienced  from 
the  Dutch,  who  used  to  prohibit  Hottentots,  equally  with  dogs,  from  entering 
their  places  of  worship  ;  still,  with  some  exceptions,  arising  from  the  beneficial 
effects  produced  in  some  places  by  the  missionaries,  the  account  seems  to 
remain  substantially  true.  Immediately  to  the  north  of  the  Colony,  and  on 
the  borders  of  the  Snewburg,  or  Snowy  Mountains,  are  the  Bosjesmans,  or 
Bushmans,  the  most  savage  and  degraded  of  all  the  South  Africans.  They 
were  visited  in  1797,  by  Mr.  Barrow,  Private  Secretary  to  Lord  Macartney, 
with  the  view  of  ascertaining  whether  friendly  relations  might  not  be  entered 
into  with  them,  to  prevent  their  incursions  upon  the  farms  of  the  Europeans. 

Mr.  Barrow,  at  the  same  period,  crossed  the  frontier  which  divides  the  Colony 
from  the  country  of  the  Caffres,  and  made  acquaintance  with  this  race,  dif- 
fering widely  in  almost  all  respects  from  their  neighbors  the  Bushmans.  He 
found  them  a  handsome  and  spirited  people,  of  frank  and  generous  deport- 
ment ;  leading  a  roaming  pastoral  life,  and  possessing  numbers  of  cattle,  in 
the  rearing  of  which  they  seemed  proficient. 

Before  the  commencement  of  the  present  century,  little  more  was  known 
respecting  the  original  inhabitants  of  Southern  Africa  than  what  we  have 
thus  generally  indicated.  But  in  1801,  two  gentlemen,  Messrs.  Trutter  and 
Somerville,  made  an  excursion  to  a  considerable  distance  beyond  the  districts 
of  the  Bushmans  and  the  Cafl'res,  whom  Mr.  Barrow  had  visited,  and  disco- 
vered a  large  river,  now  called  Orange  river,  flowing  westward,  into  the  At- 
lantic.   The  banks  of  this  river  they  found  inhabited  by  a  pastoral  tribe  called 


ADVENTURES  IN"  AFRICA.  31:] 

the  Koranes  ;  and  the  information  they  received  from  this  people  inducing 
them  to  continue  their  journey  still  farther  to  the  north,  they  at  last  reached, 
what  not  a  little  surprised  them — a  city  or  town — of  two  or  three  thousand 
houses,  very  neatly  built,  and  well  arranged. 

The  name  of  this  city  was  Lattakoo;  and  the  accounts  which  the  travelers 
brought  back  of  it  to  the  Cape,  and  of  the  friendliness  with  which  they  had 
been  received  by  the  Boshuanas,  who  were  then  the  prevalent  tribe,  induced 
the  government  to  send  Dr.  Cowan  and  Lieutenant  Denovan  to  continue  the 
discovery,  and,  if  possible,  make  their  way  past  Lattakoo,  so  as  ultimately  to 
reach  Mozambique  on  the  east  coast.  The  issue  of  this  expedition  was  un- 
fortunate. The  travelers  reached  Lattakoo  in  safety,  but  were  killed  at  a 
distance  of  eleven  days'  journey  beyond  it.  The  same  route  was  afterward 
pursued  by  Dr.  Henry  Lichtenstein,  who  added  considerably  to  the  knowl- 
edge then  possessed  of  this  part  of  Africa.  But  the  most  enterprising  tra- 
veler in  these  regions  was  Mr.  John  Campbell,  a  missionary,  who,  animated 
with  an  eager  desire  to  spread  Christianity  among  the  rude  Hottentots  and 
Caffres,  undertook  a  journey  for  that  purpose  in  1813.  He  reached  Lattakoo, 
made  known  the  object  of  his  visit  to  Mateebe,  king  of  the  Boshuanas,  and, 
after  some  importunacy,  obtained  leave  to  establish  a  missionary  station  in 
the  capital.  Having  succeeded  in  the  object  of  his  expedition,  Mr.  Campbell 
returned,  but  made  a  second  journey  to  Lattakoo  in  1820.  He  found  the 
missionary  establishment  in  active  operation,  but  little  progress  had  been  made 
in  converting  the  natives,  who  manifested  the  most  profound  indifference  on 
the  subject  of  religion.  Mr.  Campbell  now  penetrated  beyond  Lattakoo,  and 
came  among  tribes  till  then  unknown,  some  of  them  showing  a  considerable 
advance  in  the  arts  of  life,  inhabiting  neat  villages,  cultivating  the  ground, 
smelting  iron  and  copper,  and  manufacturing  various  implements.  He  also 
came  upon  the  border  of  an  immense  desert,  which,  from  its  appearance,  and 
the  information  which  he  was  enabled  to  collect  respecting  it,  he  thought  en- 
titled to  be  named  the  Southern  Sahara,  as  rivaling  in  extent  the  Great 
Northern  Desert.  Whether,  as  he  was  led  to  imagine,  this  Desert  stretches 
from  the  tropic  of  Capricorn,  where  he  saw  its  extremity,  to  the  equator,  is 
a  point  which  can  only  be  settled  by  farther  discovery;  but  the  supposition 
does  not  appear  probable. 

Subsequently  to  Mr.  Campbell's  journey,  these  regions  have  been  visited 
by  other  travelers,  who  have  made  us  better  acquainted  with  the  tribes  of  the 
South  Cape,  by  giving  us  details  of  their  customs  and  manner  of  life.  The 
latest  of  these  is  Mr.  Robert  Moffat,  likewise  a  missionary.  The  general  con- 
clusion, from  the  accounts  of  these  various  travelers,  seems  to  be,  that  the 
southern  extremity  of  Africa,  is  inhabited  by  two  principal  races — the  Hot^ 
tentots,  who,  both  physically  and  intellectually,  are  far  inferior  to  the  average 
of  mankind;  and  the  Caffres,  a  bold  and  savage,  but  promising  race,  resem- 
bling in  their  general  features  the  natives  of  other  parts  of  Africa,  and  divi- 
ded into  a  number  of  tribes,  who  inhabit  villages  scattered  through  the 
country  which  borders  on  the  Southern  Desert. 

While  describing  the  inhabitants  of  Southern  Africa,  we  have  left  the  gene- 
ral features  of  the  country  itself  undescribed.     The  following  passage  will 


314  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

supply  the  deficiency: — "  Southern  Africa  consists,"  says  a  writer,  "  of  a 
most  strange  assemblage  of  mountains  and  plains,  of  spots  lovely  and  pictur- 
esque beyond  description,  and  gifted  with  inexhaustible  fertility,  and  of  seem- 
ingly boundless  plains,  where  barrenness  reigns  so  completely  paramount, 
that  the  very  principle  of  vegetation  appears  to  be  extinct.  At  a  certain  dis- 
tance from  the  colony  we  enter  upon  regions  over  which  the  clouds  of  ignor- 
ance— almost  the  only  clouds  one  meets  with — still  brood.  We  traverse 
large  rivers,  which  rise  no  one  knows  where,  and  envelop  their  exits  in  equal 
obscurity.  Ranges  of  mountains  also,  with  appellations  uncouth,  and  hiding 
no  one  knows  what  treasures  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  kingdoms  in  their 
unvisited  recesses,  sweep  before  us  along  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  dim,  blue, 
and  shadowy,  like  so  many  fragments  of  fairyland.  And  if  the  great  out- 
lines of  the  landscape  be  original  and  bold,  the  filling  up  and  coloring  are  no 
less  so.  Everything  upon  which  the  eye  rests  has  the  appearance  of  having 
been  cast  in  a  mould  nowhere  else  made  use  of  in  the  system  of  nature. 
Among  the  terrestrial  animals,  what  bulk  and  fantastic  formations  !  How  nu- 
meious  and  strikingly  contrasted  are  the  groups  that  present  themselves! 
In  their  character  and  habits  what  extremes  seem  to  meet !  How  unspeak- 
ably lavish  seems  to  be  the  waste  of  vitality  !  Yet  who  will  dare  to  say  that, 
in  this  prodigious  outpouring  of  animal  life,  there  is  a  single- creature  that  does 
not  enjoy  and  adorn  the  scene  on  which  it  moves?  If  there  be  anything  we 
should  be  disposed  to  think  out  of  place,  it  is  the  stunted  representatives  of 
humanity,  who,  under  the  name  of  Bushmen,  roam  in  indescribable  misery 
and  degradation  over  those  sublime  savannahs.  To  a  man  of  imagination, 
nothing  more  inspiring  can  be  conceived  than  climbing  one  of  the  breezy 
peaks  overlooking  that  strange  wilderness,  at  the  moment  that  the  dawn  is 
busily  unfolding  all  its  varied  features.  From  every  tree  the  heavy  dew- 
drops  pour  like  rain;  streams  of  white  mist,  smooth  and  glassy  as  a  tranquil 
river,  float  slowly  down  the  valleys,  reflecting  from  their  surface  the  trees, 
and  cliffs,  and  crags  on  either  hand.  Here,  through  openings  between  feath- 
ery mimosas,  weeping-willows,  and  tall  trembling  reeds,  we  catch  a  glimpse 
of  some  quiet  lake,  the  haunt  of  the  hippopotamus;  while  a  herd  of  graceful 
purple  antelopes  are  seen  drinking  on  its  further  margin.  There,  amid  thick 
clumps  of  camel-thorn,  we  behold  a  drove  of  giraffes,  with  heads  eighteen 
feet  high,  browsing  on  the  tops  of  trees.  Elsewhere,  the  rhinoceros  pokes 
his  long  ugly  snout  from  a  brake.  While  the  lion,  fearless  in  the  conscious- 
ness of  his  own  strength,  parades  his  tawny  bulk  over  the  plain,  or  reclines, 
in  sphinx-like  attitude,  beneath  some  ancient  tree." 

Eastern  Africa. — With  the  exception  of  the  countries  bordering  on  the 
Red  Sea — Egypt,  Nubia,  and  Abyssinirt — which  cannot  be  included  in  so 
general  a  survey  as  the  present,  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa  is  undoubtedly 
the  least-known  portion  of  the  whole  circuit  of  the  continent.  The  tract  of 
country  extending  from  the  northern  extremity  of  CafFreland  to  Cape  Guard- 
afui,  and  including  the  states  or  territories  of  Sofala,  Mozambique,  Zangue- 
bar,  and  Ajan,  was  early  visited  by  the  Portuguese  in  their  voyages  to  India; 
and  in  the  course  of  the  sixteenth  century,  various  settlements  were  planted 
in  it  by  them,  similar  to  thos(  which  they  planted  along  the  Guinea  Coast. 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  315 

The  most  conspicuous  difference  was,  that  here  the  ruling  race  were  not  pure 
negroes,  but  men  of  Arabic  descent,  and  vehement  Mohammedans.  It  was 
from  these  that  the  Portuguese  wrested  the  immense  line  of  coast-territory 
which  they  once  held  in  this  part  of  Africa,  and  of  which  they  made  Mozam- 
bique the  capital.  On  the  ruin  of  the  Portuguese  power  in  India,  their  settle- 
ments in  Eastern  Africa  declined;  the  Arabs  and  blacks  reconquered  a  great 
portion  of  their  ancient  territory;  and  it  is  now  merely  by  sufferance  that  the 
once  powerful  Portuguese  retain  a  footing  on  the  coast  a  tall.  What  they  do 
possess,  however,  they  guard  with  the  utmost  jealousy;  and  they  testify  ex- 
treme aversion  to  the  intrusion  of  any  other  European  nation  into  these  terri- 
tories where  they  once  lorded  it  so  proudly.  Mr.  Salt,  who  visited  Mozam- 
bique in  1808,  found  it  to  contain  a  population  of  less  than  three  thousand, 
of  whom  only  five  hundred  were  Portuguese.  "  The  rural  population  of  this 
part  of  Africa,"  says  Mr.  Macculloch,  "is  in  the  most  degraded  state;  and 
although  the  soil  be  naturally  rich  and  productive,  the  culture  of  cotton,  in- 
digo, sugar,  and  other  articles  of  commerce  is  wholly  neglected.  Rice,  mil- 
let, and  manioc  are  raised  almost  without  labor,  furnishing,  with  cocoa-nuts, 
almost  the  entire  food  of  the  slaves.  The  commerce  of  Mozambique  has 
greatly  decreased,  in  consequence  of  our  exertions  to  suppress  the  traffic  in 
slaves;  but  although  much  diminished,  the  slave  trade  is  still  carried  on  to  a 
considerable  extent  both  with  Brazil  and  Arabia.  These  slaves,  who  are 
chiefly  of  the  tribe  of  the  Monjores,  and  brought  from  the  center  of  the  con- 
tinent, a  distance  of  forty  or  forty-five  days'  journey  from  the  colony,  are  pro- 
cured from  the  native  merchants  in  exchange  for  salt,  shells,  tobacco,  coarse 
cloths,  etc.  Goods  costing  about  two  dollars,  will  bring  in,  as  the  case  may 
be,  either  a  slave  or  an  elephant's  tusk,  weighing  from  sixty  to  eighty  pounds 
of  ivory.  Hippopotamus'  tusks,  gold  dust,  Columbo-root,  gums,  and  amber, 
are  the  other  chief  exports." 

From  these  few  particulars,  which  include  nearly  all  that  is  known  of  this 
part  of  Africa,  it  will  appear  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  infusion  of  the 
Mohammedan  and  Arabic  element,  which  is  here  very  strong,  it  bears  a 
close  resemblance  to  the  corresponding  portion  of  the  western  coast.  There 
are  the  same  impediments,  arising  from  climate,  to  the  acquisition  of  much 
knowledge  of  the  country  by  Europeans,  who,  at  best,  are  unable  to  pene- 
trate farther  than  a  few  miles  into  the  interior.  It  appears  probable,  indeed, 
that  the  last  portions  of  the  coast  of  Africa  to  be  thoroughly  explored  will  be 
these  sites  of  the  declining  Portuguese  colonies. 

Central  Africa. — Under  the  general  name  of  Central  Africa  may  be  inclu- 
ded the  whole  of  the  interior  of  the  continent  south  of  the  Great  Desert. 
This  immense  extent  of  country  may  be  divided  into  two  parts — Southern 
Central  Africa,  lying  between  the  tropic  of  Capricorn  and  the  equator;  ana 
Northern  Central  Africa,  called  also  Soudan,  or  Nigritia,  lying  between  the 
equator  and  the  Great  Desert.  The  former  is  as  yet  totally  unknown  and 
unexplored;  and  before  our  information  respecting  it  can  be  at  all  authentic 
and  accurate,  two  most  difficult  expeditions  must  have  been  made,  which 
have  not  yet  been  so  much  as  proposed — one  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
northward  as  far  as  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  the  other  transversely  across 


3iQ  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

the  continent  from  Congo  to  Zanguebar  or  Mozambique.  At  what  future 
period  the  spirit  of  enterprise  may  achieve  these  two  journeys  it  is  impossible 
to  tell. 

Northern  Central  Africa,  or  Nigritia,  has,  on  the  other  hand,  been  pene- 
trated by  travelers,  who  have  advanced  into  it  from  all  directions.  From  the 
earliest  times  this  part  of  Africa  attracted  attention,  as  being  the  country 
through  which  the  famous  Niger  flowed,  on  whose  banks  the  great  city  of 
Timbuctoo,  of  the  wealth  of  which  vague  accounts  had  reached  the  shores 
of  the  Mediterranean,  was  reputed  to  be  situated.  To  ascertain  the  course 
of  this  river,  and  to  reach  this  celebrated  negro  city,  were  the  leading  objects 
of  all  who  engaged  in  the  enterprise  of  African  discovery.  In  the  year 
1618,  an  English  company  was  formed  for  the  purpose  of  opening  up  a  com- 
munication with  Timbuctoo,  and  not  long  afterward  a  similar  company  was 
formed  in  France.  For  a  century  and  a  half  the  two  nations  continued  to 
compete  with  each  other  in  the  enterprise  :  the  Erglish  trying  to  make  their 
way  up  the  river  Gambia,  which  they  imagined  J.o  be  the  outlet  of  the  Niger; 
the  French,  on  the  other  hand,  persevering  along  the  Senega],  which  seemed 
to  them  more  likely  to  be  identical  with  the  Niger.  Much  useful  information 
was  acquired  in  these  successive  voyages  respecting  Western  Africa;  but  no 
intelligence  was  obtained  of  the  site  of  the  great  city  of  the  negroes.  It 
was  clearly  ascertained,  however,  that  neither  the  Senegal  nor  the  Gambia 
could  be  identical  with  the  Niger,  supposing  the  traditionary  accounts  of  that 
river  to  be^true.  Three  distinct  opinions  respecting  this  river  began  to  be 
entertained.  Some  said  that  there  was  no  Niger  at  all,  such  as  the  ancients 
had  described  it,  but  that  some  river,  branching  off  into  the  Senegal  and 
Gambia,  was  alluded  to.  Others  believed  that  the  ancient  accounts  of  the 
Niger  as  a  river  flowing  toward  the  east  was  correct,  and  that  it  was  to  be 
considered  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  the  Nile.  A  third  party  maintained 
that  the  supposition  of  the  Niger  being  identical  with  the  Nile  was  untenable, 
considering  the  immense  breadth  of  the  continent,  and  that  the  true  Niger 
was  some  stream  rising  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  and  flowing  into  the  sea  at 
some  point  of  the  western  coast  farther  south  than  the  Senegal  and  the  Gambia. 
A  subsequent  modification  of  this  opinion  was,  that  the  Niger  did  not  flow 
into  the  sea  at  all,  but  terminated  in  some  great  marsh  or  lake  in  the  interior 
of  Africa,  resembling  the  Caspian  Sea. 

Such  was  the  state  of  information,  or  rather  of  doubt,  with  respect  to  the 
course  of  the  Niger,  when,  in  the  year  1788,  a  number  of  spirited  men  of 
science,  including  Lord  Rawdon,  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  the  bishop  of  Landaff, 
Mr.  Beaufoy,  and  Mr.  Stuart,  formed  themselves  into  an  association  for  the 
purpose  of  prosecuting  this  and  other  questions  of  African  geography  to  an 
issue.  No  sooner  had  the  society  been  formed,  than  it  commenced  its  labors. 
The  first  travelers,  however,  whom  it  sent  out  were  cut  off  by  death. 

The  very  first  who  presented  himself  was  an  American,  John  Ledyard, 
a  native  of  Groton,  Connecticut,  whose  history  is  so  remarkable,  that  we 
pause  to  dwell  longer  upon  it  than  the  regular  chain  of  this  article  demands  : 

"  His  father  died  while  he  was  yet  a  child,  and  he  was  left  under  the  care 
of  a  restive  in  Hartford.     Here  he  enjoyed  the   advantages  of  a  grammar- 


ADVENTURES  IN   AFRICA.  317 

school.  After  the  death  of  his  patron,  when  he  was  eighteen  years  of  age, 
he  was  left  to  follow  his  own  inclinations.  With  a  view  to  the  study  of  divin- 
ity, he  now  passed  a  short  time  in  Dartmouth  College,  in  New  Hampshire, 
where  he  had  ah  opportunity  of  learning  the  manners  of  the  Indians,  as  there 
was  a  number  of  Indian  pupils  in  the  seminary.  His  acquaintance  with  the 
savage  character  gained  in  this  place,  was  of  no  little  advantage  to  him  in  the 
future  periods  of  his  life.  His  poverty  obliging  him  to  withdraw  from  the 
college  before  he  had  completed  his  education,  and  not  having  a  shilling  in  his 
pocket  to  defray  the  expense  of  a  journey  to  Hartford,  he  built  him  a  canoe, 
fifty  feet  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth,  and  being  generously  supplied  with 
some  dried  venison  for  his  sea-stores,  he  embarked  upon  the  Connecticut,  and 
going  down  that  river,  which  is  in  many  places  rapid,  and  with  which  he  was 
totally  unacquainted,  he  arrived  safely  at  Hartford,  at  the  distance  of  one 
hundred  and  forty  miles. 

"  He  soon  went  to  New  York,  and  sailed  for  London  in  1771,  as  a  common 
sailor.  When  Captain  Cook  sailed  on  his  third  voyage  of  discovery,  Ledyard, 
who  felt  an  irresistible  desire  to  explore  those  regions  of  the  globe  which  were 
yet  undiscovered,  or  imperfectly  known,  accepted  the  humble  station  of  cor- 
poral of  marines,  rather  than  forego  an  opportunity  so  inviting  to  his  inquisi- 
tive and  adventurous  spirit.  He  was  a  favorite  of  the  illustrious  navigator, 
and  was  one  of  the  witnesses  of  his  tragical  end  in  1778.  He  surprised  his 
friends  in  America,  who  had  heard  nothing  of  him  for  ten  years,  by  a  visit 
in  1781.  Having  offered  his  services  to  several  merchants  to  conduct  a  tra- 
ding  voyage  to  the  north-west  coast,  and  meeting  with  no  encouragement,  he 
again  embarked  for  England  in  1782.  He  now  resolved  to  traverse  the  con- 
tinent of  America  from  the  north-west  coast,  which  Cook  had  partly  explored, 
to  the  eastern  coast,  with  which  he  was  already  perfectly  familiar.  Disap- 
pointed in  his  intention  of  sailing  on  a  voyage  of  commercial  adventure  to 
Nootka  Sound,  he  passed  the  British  channel  to  Ostend,  with  only  ten  guin- 
eas in  his  purse,  determined  to  travel  over  land  to  Kamtschatka,  whence  the 
passage  is  short  to  the  western  coast  of  America.  When  he  came  to  the 
gulf  of  Bothnia,  he  attempted  to  cross  the  ice,  that  he  might  reach  Kamts- 
chatka by  the  shortest  way  ;  but  finding  that  the  water  was  not  frozen  in  the 
middle,  he  returned  to  Stockholm.  He  then  traveled  northward  into  the 
arctic  circle,  and  passing  round  the  head  of  the  gulf,  descended  on  its  east- 
ern side  to  Petersburg.  There  his  extraordinary  appearance  attracted  gen- 
eral notice.  Without  stockings  or  shoes,  and  too  poor  to  provide  himself 
with  either,  he  was  invited  to  dine  with  the  Portuguese  ambassador,  who 
supplied  him  with!  twenty  guineas  on  the  credit  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks.  Through 
his  interest,  he  also  obtained  permission  to  accompany  a  detachment  of  stores, 
which  was  to  be  sent  to  Yakutz  for  the  use  of  Mr.  Billings,  an  Englishman, 
who  was  intrusted  with  the  schemes  of  northern  discovery,  in  which  the  Em- 
press was  then  engaged.  From  Yakutz,  which  is  situated  in  Siberia,  six 
thousand  miles  east  of  Petersburg,  he  proceeded  to  Ochotsk,  on  the  Kamts- 
chatka sea  ;  but  as  the  navigation  was  completely  obstructed  by  ice,  he  re- 
turned to  Yakutz,  intending  to  wait  for  the  conclusion  of  the  winter.  Here, 
in  consequence  of  some  unaccountable  suspicion,  he  was  seized  in  the  name 


318  ADVENTURES   W  AFftTOA. 

of  the  Empress  by  two  Russian  soldiers,  who  conveyed  him,  in  the  depth  of 
winter,  through  the  north  of  Tartary  to  the  frontier  of  the  Polish  dominions, 
assuring  him  at  their  departure,  that  if  he  returned  to  Russia,  he  should  cer- 
tainly be  hanged,  but  if  he  chose  to  return  to  England,  they  wished  him  a 
pleasant  journey.  Poor,  forlorn,  and  friendless,  covered  with  rags,  and  ex- 
hausted by  fatigue,  disease  and  misery,  he  proceeded  to  Konigsberg,  where 
the  interest  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks  enabled  him  to  procure  the  sum  of  five  guin- 
eas, by  means  of  which  he  arrived  in  England. 

u  He  immediately  waited  on  Sir  Joseph,  who  recommended  to  him  an  adven- 
ture as  perilous  as  that  from  which  he  had  just  returned.  He  now  was  in- 
formed of  the  views  of  the  African  association.  He  engaged  with  enthusi- 
asm in  an  enterprise  which  he  had  already  projected  for  himself;  and  receiv- 
ing from  Sir  Joseph  a  letter  of  introduction  to  one  of  the  members  of  the 
committee  appointed  to  direct  the  business,  and  promote  the  object  of  the 
association,  he  went  to  him  without  delay,  The  description  which  that  gen- 
tleman has  given  of  his  first  interview,  strongly  marks  the  character  of  this 
hardy  traveler.  'Before  I  had  learned,'  says  he,  'from  the  note,  the  name 
and  business  of  my  visitor,  I  was  struck  with  the  manliness  of  his  person, 
the  breadth  of  his  chest,  the  openness  of  his  countenance,  and  the  inquietude 
of  his  eye.  I  spread  the  map  of  Africa  before  him,  and  tracing  a  line  from 
Cairo  to  Sennaar,  and  from  thence  westward  in  the  latitude  and  supposed  di- 
rection of  the  Niger,  I  told  him  that  was  the  route  by  which  I  was  anxious 
that  Africa  might,  if  possible,  be  explored.  He  said  he  should  think  himself 
singularly  fortunate  to  be  intrusted  with  the  adventure.  I  asked  him  when 
he  would  set  out.     To-morrow  morning,  was  his  answer.' 

"  From  such  zeal,  decision  and  intrepidity,  the  society  naturally  formed 
the  most  sanguine  expectations.  He  sailed  from  London,  June  30,  1788,  and 
in  thirty-six  days,  seven  of  which  were  spent  in  Paris,  and  two  at  Marseilles, 
arrived  in  the  city  of  Alexandria ;  and  having  .here  assumed  the  dress  of 
an  Egyptian  traveler,  proceeded  to  Cairo,  which  he  reached  on  the  19th 
of  August.  He  traveled  with  peculiar  advantages.  Endowed  with  an  orig- 
inal and  comprehensive  genius,  he  beheld  with  interest,  and  described  with 
energy,  the  scenes  and  objects  around  him  ;  and  by  comparing  them  with 
what  he  had  seen  in  other  regions  of  the  globe,  he  was  enabled  to  give  his 
narrative  all  the  varied  effect  of  contrast  and  resemblance.  His  remarks  on 
Lower  Egypt,  had  that  country  been  less  generally  known,  might  have  ranked 
with  the  most  valuable  of  geographical  records.  They  greatly  heightened 
the  opinion  which  his  employers  already  entertained  of  his  singular  qualifica- 
tions for  the  task  which  he  had  undertaken.  Nor  was  his  residence  at  Cairo 
altogether  useless  to  the  association.  By  visiting  the  slave  markets,  and  by 
convers:ng  with  the  Jelabs,  or  traveling  merchants  of  the  caravans,  he  ob- 
tained, without  any  expense,  a  better  idea  of  the  people  of  Africa,  of  its 
trade,  of  the  position  of  places,  the  nature  of  the  country,  and  the  manner  of 
traveling,  than  he  could  by  any  other  means  have  acquired  ;  and  the  commu- 
nications on  these  subjects,  which  he  transmitted  to  England,  interesting  and 
instructive  as  they  were,  afforded  the  society  the  most  gratifying  proofs  of  the 
ardent  spirit  of  inquiry,  the  unwearied  attention,  the  persevering  research, 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  319 

and  the  laborious,  indefatigable,  anxious  zeal,  with  which  thoir  author  pur- 
sued the  object  of  his  mission. 

"  He  had  announced  to  his  employers,  that  he  had  received  letters  of  ear- 
nest recommendation  from  the  Aga ;  that  the  day  of  his  departure  was  ap- 
pointed ;  that  his  next  dispatch  would  be  dated  from  Sennaar  ;  and  the  com- 
mittee expected  with  impatience  the  result  of  his  journey.  But  that  journey 
was  never  to  be  performed.  The  vexation  occasioned  by  repeated  delays  in 
the  departure  of  the  caravan,  brought  on  a  bilious  complaint,  which  being  in- 
creased at  first  by  incautious  treatment,  baffled  the  skill  of  the  most  approved 
physicians  of  Cairo,  and  terminated  his  earthly  existence,  January  17,  1789. 

"  The  society  heard  with  deep  concern  the  death  of  a  man,  whose  high 
sense  of  honor,  magnanimous  contempt  of  danger,  and  earnest  zeal  for  the 
extension  of  knowledge,  had  been  so  conspicuously  displayed  in  their  ser- 
vice ;  whose  ardor,  tempered  by  calm  deliberation,  whose  daring  spirit,  sec- 
onded by  the  most  prudent  caution,  and  whose  impatience  of  control,  united 
with  the  power  of  supporting  any  fatigue,  seemed  to  have  qualified  him  above 
all  other  men,  for  the  very  arduous  task  of  traversing  the  wildest  and  most 
dangerous  part  of  the  continent  of  Africa.  Despising  the  accidental  distinc- 
tions of  society,  he  seemed  to  regard  no  man  as  his  superior ;  but  his  man- 
ners, though  unpolished,  were  not  disagreeable.  His  uncultivated  genius  was 
peculiar  and  capacious.  The  hardships  to  which  he  submitted  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  his  enterprises  and  in  the  indulgence  of  his  curiosity,  are  almost  in- 
credible. He  was  sometimes  glad  to  receive  food  as  in  charity  to  a  madman, 
for  that  character  he  had  been  obliged  to  assume  in  order  to  avoid  a  heavier 
calamity.  His  judgment  of  the  female  character  is  very  honorable  to  the 
sex.  '  I  have  always  remarked,'  says  he,  ■  that  women  in  all  countries  are 
civil  and  obliging,  tender  and  humane  :  that  they  are  ever  inclined  to  be  gay 
and  cheerful,  timorous  and  modest ;  and  that  they  do  not  hesitate,  like  men, 
to  perform  a  generous  action.  Not  haughty,  not  arrogant,  nor  supercilious, 
they  are  full  of  courtesy,  and  fond  of  society  ;  more  liable  in  general  to  err 
than  man,  but  in  general  also  more  virtuous,  and  performing  more  good  ac- 
tions than  he.  To  a  woman,  whether  civilized  or  savage,  I  never  addressed 
myself,  in  the  language  of  decency  and  friendship,  without  receiving  a  decent 
and  friendly  answer.  With  man  it  has  often  been  otherwise.  In  wandering 
over  the  barren  plains  of  inhospitable  Denmark,  through  honest  Sweden  and 
frozen  Lapland,  rude  and  churlish  Finland,  unprincipled  Russia,  and  the  wide 
spread  regions  of  the  wandering  Tartar  ;  if  hungry,  dry,  cold,  wet,  or  sick, 
the  women  have  ever  been  friendly  to  rne,  and  uniformly  so.  And  add  to 
this  virtue,  so  worthy  the  appellation  of  benevolence,  their  actions  have  been 
performed  in  so  free  and  kind  a  manner,  that  if  I  was  dry,  I  drank  the 
sweetest  draught,  and  if  hungry,  I  ate  the  coarsest  morsel  with  a  double 
relish.'  " 

Another  of  these  adventurers,  Major  Houghton,  ascended  the  Gambia, 
traveling  alone  by  land.  He  seems  to  have  been  endowed  with  a  gay,  active 
and  sanguine  spirit,  fitted  to  carry  him  through  the  boldest  undertakings,  but 
without  that  cool  and  calculating  temper  necessary  for  him  who  advances 
amid  scenes  of  peril   and  treachery.     Quitting  the  Gambia,  he  was  on  his 


320  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

way  to  Tirnbuctoo,  when  he  was  robbed  by  some  Moors  on  the  Great  Desert, 
and  left  naked  without  food  or  shelter.  He  wandered  about  until  quite  ex- 
hausted, and  then  sat  under  a  tree  and  expired.  Mungo  Park  was  shown  the 
very  spot  where  his  remains  were  abandoned  to  the  fowls  of  the  air. 

It  was  at  this  juncture  that  the  celebrated  Mungo  Park  presented  himself 
to  the  society.  Born  in  the  county  of  Selkirk,  in  Scotland,  and  having  been 
educated  for  the  medical  profession,  Park  had  just  returned  from  a  voyage 
to  the  East  Indies  in  the  capacity  of  assistant  surgeon  on  board  of  a  vessel, 
when  he  offered  his  services  to  the  association.  Park  departed  on  his  expe- 
dition in  the  summer  of  1795,  he  being  then  twenty-four  years  of  age.  His 
instructions  were  to  ascertain  the  course,  and  if  possible,  the  rise  and  termi- 
nation of  the  Niger,  and  to  use  his  utmost  exertions  to  visit  the  principal  towns 
and  cities  in  its  neighborhood,  particularly  Tirnbuctoo  and  Houssa. 

He  set  sail  from  Portsmouth  on  the  22d  May,  1795,  and  on  the  21st  June, 
arrived  at  Jillifree  on  the  Gambia.  He  then  proceeded  to  Pisania,  in  the  fer- 
tile kingdom  of  Yani,  where  he  was  detained  five  months  by  illness  under  the 
hospitable  roof  of  Dr.  Laidley.  While  suffering  from  the  fever  of  the  climate, 
he  acquired  the  Mandingo  language,  and  obtained  considerable  information 
from  the  negro  traders  respecting  the  interior  countries.  The  Gambia  at  this 
station  was  deep  and  muddy,  overshadowed  with  impenetrable  thickets  of 
mangrove,  and  the  stream  filled  with  crocodiles  and  river-horses. 

On  the  2d  of  December,  Mr.  Park  took  his  departure,  attended  only  by  a 
few  negro  servants.  On  the  5th,  he  arrived  at  Medina,  where  the  good  old 
king  received  him  with  the  same  hospitality  he  had  so  liberally  shown  to  Major 
Houghton  ;  but  earnestly  exhorted  him  to  take  warning  from  the  fate  of  that 
too  adventurous  traveler,  and  go  no  farther.  Mr.  Park  was  not  to  be  thus 
discouraged,  but  immediately  proceeded  to  enter  the  great  forest  or  wilder- 
ness which  separates  this  country  from  Bondou.  He  conformed  to  the  exam- 
ple of  his  companions  in  hanging  a  charm  or  shred  of  cloth  upon  a  tree  at  its 
entrance,  which  was  completely  covered  with  those  guartiian  symbols.  In 
two  days  he  had  passed  the  wood,  and  found  Bondou  a  fine  champaign  coun- 
try, watered  by  the  Faleme.  He  had  soon,  however,  to  encounter  the  perils 
which  cannot  but  await  every  single  and  defenseless  traveler  who,  loaded 
with  valuable  goods,  passes  through  a  succession  of  petty  kingdoms  where 
law  is  unknown.  At  Fatteconda,  which  he  reached  on  the  21st  December,  he 
was  obliged  to  wait  upon  Aim  ami  the  king,  who  had  already  disgraced  him- 
self by  the  plunder  of  Major  Houghton.  Being  desirous  to  preserve  a  good 
new  blue  coat,  Mr.  Park  deemed  it  the  wisest  plan  to  wear  it  on  his  person, 
fondly  hoping  that  it  would  not  be  actually  stripped  off  his  back.  However, 
after  the  introductory  ceremonial,  the  king  began  a  warm  panegyric  on  the 
wealth  and  generosity  of  the  whites,  whence  he  proceeded  to  the  praises  of 
the  coat  and  its  yellow  buttons,  concluding  with  expressing  the  delight  with 
which  he  should  wear  it  for  the  sake  of  his  guest.  He  did  not  add,  that  if 
these  hints  were  disregarded,  it  would  be  seized  by  force  ;  but  our  traveler, 
being  thoroughly  convinced  that  such  was  his  intention,  pulled  off  the  coatr 
of  which  he  humbly  requested  his  majesty's  acceptance.  The  king  then 
abstained  from  farther  spoil,  and  introduced  him  as  a  curiosity  to  his  female 


ADVENTURES  ftf  AFRICA.  321 

circle.  The  ladies,  after  a  careful  survey,  approved  of  his  external  appear- 
ance, with  the  exception  of  the  two  deformities  of  a  white  skin  and  a  high 
nose  ;  but  for  these  they  made  ample  allowance,  being  blemishes  produced  by 
the  false  taste  of  his  mother,  who  had  bathed  him  in  milk  when  young,  and, 
by  pinching  his  nose,  elevated  it  into  its  present  absurd  height.  Park  flat- 
tered them  on  their  jet-black  skins  and  beautifully  flattened  noses  ;  but  was 
modestly  warned  that  honey -mouth  was  not  esteemed  in  Bondou. 

Another  forest  intervened  between  that  kingdom  and  Kajaaga,  which  he 
crossed  by  moonlight,  when  the  deep  silence  of  the  woods  was  interrupted 
only  by  the  howling  of  wolves  and  hyenas,  which  glided  like  shadows  through 
the  thickets.  Scarcely  was  he  arrived  at  Joag,  in  Kajaaga,  when  a  party  from 
Bacheri  the  king  surrounded  him,  and  declared  his  property  forfeited,  in  con- 
sequence of  having  entered  the  country  without  payment  of  the  duties.  Thus 
he  was  stripped  of  all  his  goods  except  a  small  portion  which  he  contrived  to 
hide.  Unable  to  procure  a  meal,  he  was  sitting  disconsolate  under  a  bentang, 
tree,  when  an  aged  female  slave  came  up  and  asked  if  he  had  dined.  Being 
told  that  he  had  not,  and  had  been  robbed  of  everything,  she  presented  sev- 
eral handfuls  of  nuts,  and  went  off  before  he  could  return  thanks.  Demba 
Sego,  nephew  to  the  king  of  Kasson,  and  who  happened  to  be  then  at  Joag 
endeavoring  to  negotiate  a  peace  between  his  uncle  and  Bacheri,  who  were  at 
variance,  now  undertook  to  guide  him  into  that  country,  and  did  so  ;  but  ex- 
acted so  many  duties  and  presents,  that  Mr.  Park  was  stripped  of  half  his 
remaining  stock.  Kasson  was  found  a  level,  fertile,  and  beautiful  country. 
At  Kooniakary,  the  capital,  our  traveler  was  well  received  by  the  king,  and 
forwarded  to  Kemmoo,  the  principal  town  of  Kaarta.  Daisy,  the  sovereign 
of  this  last,  likewise  received  him  with  the  utmost  kindness  ;  but  on  learning 
his  intention  of  taking  the  route  to  Timbuctoo  through  Bambarra,  he  stated 
this  to  be  impossible,  as  he  himself  was  then  at  war  with  the  latter  kingdom, 
and  assured  him  that  he  would  at  once  be  killed  if  he  attempted  to  enter  it 
from  Kaarta.  There  remained,  therefore,  no  alternative  but  to  go  by  way  of 
the  Moorish  kingdom  of  Ludamar,  a  perilous  and  fatal  route,  in  which  Major 
Houghton  had  already  perished.  Mr.  Park,  however,  hoped,  by  proceeding 
along  the  southern  frontier,  to  reach  Bambarra  without  coming  much  into 
contact  with  the  barbarous  and  bigoted  Moors  by  whom  it  was  peopled. 

On  his  arrival  at  Jarra,  a  large  town  chiefly  inhabited  by  negroes,  but 
entirely  under  the  power  of  the  Moors,  he  sent  to  Benowm,  the  capital, 
a  messenger  loaded  with  presents  to  negotiate  with  Ali,  their  chief,  for  a  pas- 
sage through  his  territories.  After  waiting  a  fortnight  in  ffreat  anxietv,  he 
received  a  safe-conduct  to  Goombo,  a  place  on  the  frontier  of  Bambarra.  He ' 
first  proceeded  to  Deena,  a  town  in  the  possession  of  the  Moors,  who  insulted 
and  plundered  him  in  the  grossest  manner,  so  that  he  was  happy  to  escape  by 
setting  out  at  two  in  the  morning  of  3d  March.  He  passed  next  through 
Sampaka  and  Dalli,  where  he  was  received  by  the  negro  inhabitants  with  the 
kindness  and  hospitality  of  that  race  ;  he  was  even  induced  to  stop  a  day  at 
Dalli  under  promise  of  an  escort ;  but  this  was  a  fatal  pause.  At  Sami,  on 
the  7th  March,  a  party  of  Moorish  horsemen  appeared,  for  the  purpose  of 
felling  him  that  Fatima,  the  favorite  wife  of  Ali,  had  been  struck  with  curi 
21 


322  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

osity  to  see  what  kind  of  creature  a  Christian  was;  that  he  must  therefore 
come  and  show  himself ;  but  was  assured  that  he  would  be  well  treated,  and 
on  satisfying  her  majesty's  wish,  would  even  be  forwarded  on  his  journey. 

Benowm,  the  Moorish  capital,  to  which  Park  was  then  conveyed,  proved  to 
be  a  mere  camp  composed  of  a  number  of  dirty  tents,  intermingled  with  herds 
of  camels,  horses,  and  oxen.  He  was  surrounded  by  crowds  actuated  partly 
by  curiosity  and  partly  by  that  malignant  feeling  which  always  inflames  the 
Moors  against  Christians.  They  snatched  off  his  hat,  made  him  unbutton  his 
clothes  to  show  the  whiteness  of  his  skin,  and  counted  his  fingers  and  toes  to 
see  if  he  were  really  of  the  same  nature  with  themselves.  After  being  kept  for 
some  time  in  the  sun,  he  was  lodged  in  a  hut  made  of  cornstalks,  supported 
by  posts,  to  one  of  which  was  tied  a  wild  hog,  evidently  in  derision,  and  to  inti- 
mate that  they  were  fit  associates  for  each  other.  The  hog,  indeed,  would  have 
been  the  most  harmless  part  of  the  affair,  had  not  idle  boys  taken  delight  in 
tormenting  and  working  up  the  animal  to  a  constant  state  of  fury.  Crowds 
of  men  and  women  incessantly  poured  in  to  see  the  white  man,  and  he  was 
obliged  to  continue  the  whole  day  buttoning  and  unbuttoning  his  clothes,  to 
show  his  skin,  and  the  European  manner  of  dressing  and  undressing.  When 
curiosity  was  satisfied,  the  next  amusement  was  to  plague  the  Christian,  and 
he  became  the  sport  of  the  meanest  and  most  vulgar  members  of  this  rude 
community.  The  Moorish  horsemen  took  him  out  and  galloped  round  him, 
baiting  him  as  if  he  had  been  a  wild  beast,  twirling  their  swords  in  his  face 
to  show  their  skill  in  horsemanship.  Repeated  attempts  were  made  to  compel  him 
to  work.  One  of  Ali's  sons  desired  him  to  mend  the  lock  of  a  double-barreled 
gun,  and  could  scarcely  be  persuaded  that  all  Europeans  did  not  ply  the  trade 
of  a  smith.  He  was  also  installed  as  barber,  and  directed  to  shave  the  head 
of  a  young  prince  ;  but  not  relishing  this  function,  he  contrived  to  give  his 
highness  such  a  cut  that  Ali  took  the  alarm  and  discharged  him  as  incapable. 
That  chief,  under  pretense  of  securing  him  against  depredation,  seized  for 
himself  all  that  remained  of  the  traveler's  property.  Having  examined  the 
instruments,  he  was  greatly  astonished  at  the  compass,  and  particularly  at  its 
always  pointing  toward  the  Great  Desert.  Park,  thinking  it  vain  to  attempt 
any  scientific  exposition,  said  that  its  direction  was  always  to  the  place  where 
his  mother  dwelt ;  whereupon  Ali,  struck  with  superstitious  dread,  desired  it 
to  be  taken  away. 

Amid  these  insults,  Park's  sufferings  were  the  more  severe  from  the  very 
scanty  measure  of  food  with  which  he  was  supplied.  At  midnight  only  he 
received  a  small  mess  of  kouskous,  not  nearly  enough  to  satisfy  nature.  He 
had  been  invited,  indeed,  to  kill  and  dress  his  companion  the  hog  ;  but  this 
he  considered  as  a  snare  laid  for  him,  believing  that  the  Mahommedans,  had 
they  seen  him  feasting  on  this  impure  and  hated  flesh,  would  have  killed  him 
on  the  spot.  As  the  dry  season  advanced,  water  became  scarce  and  precious, 
and  only  a  very  limited  quantity  was  allowed  to  reach  the  infidel,  who  thus 
endured  the  pangs  of  the  most  tormenting  thirst.  On  one  occasion,  a  Mooi 
who  was  drawing  water  for  his  cows,  yielded  to  his  earnest  entreaty  that  he 
might  put  the  bucket  to  his  mouth  ;  then,  struck  with  sudden  alarm  at  such  a 
profanation  of  the  vessel,  seized  it   and  poured  the  liquid  into  the  trough. 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  323 

desiring  liiin  to  sh?  e  with  the  cattle.     Park  overcame  the  risings  of  pride, 
plunged  his  head  i^to  the  water,  and  enjoyed  a  delicious  draught. 

During  this  dreadful  period  he  contrived,  nevertheless,  to  obtain  some  in- 
formation. Even  the  rudest  of  his  tormentors  took  pleasure  in  teaching  him 
the  Arabic  characters,  by  tracing  them  upon  the  sand.  Two  Mohammedan 
travelers  came  to  Benowm,  from  whom  he  obtained  routes  to  Morocco,  Walet, 
and  Timbuctoo  ;  but  they  gave  the  most  discouraging  report  as  to  the  pros- 
pects of  reaching  the  latter  city.  He  was  told  it  would  not  do  ;  the  Moors 
were  there  entirely  masters,  and  viewed  all  Christians  as  children  of  the  Devil 
and  enemies  of  the  prophet. 

Fatima,  the  wife  of  Ali,  whose  curiosity  to  see  a  Christian  he  had  been 
brought  hither  to  gratify,  was  absent  all  this  time  and  not  like  to  arrive,  while 
the  rancor  of  the  Moors,  by  whom  Park  was  surrounded,  became  always  more 
imbittered.  A  party  even  proposed  that  he  should  be  condemned  to  death, 
though  Ali's  sons  only  recommended  to  put  out  his  eyes,  alleging  that  they 
resembled  those  of  a  cat.  Hereupon  he  began  seriously  to  consider  the  pos- 
sibility of  escape  ;  but  beside  his  being  closely  watched,  the  Desert  was  now 
so  entirely  destitute  of  water,  that  he  must  have  perished  on  the  road  with 
thirst.  He  was  therefore  obliged  to  await  the  rainy  season,  however  unfa- 
vorable for  traveling  through  the  negro  territories. 

Ali,  on  the  30th  April,  having  occasion  to  move  his  quarters,  came  to  Bu- 
baker,  the  residence  of  Fatima,  and  Park  was  introduced  to  that  favorite 
princess.  The  beauty  of  a  Moorish  female  is  measured  entirely  by  her  cir- 
cumference ;  and  to  bestow  this  grace  on  their  daughters,  the  mothers  stuff 
them  with  enormous  quantities  of  milk  and  kouskous,  the  swallowing  of 
which  is  enforced  even  with  blows,  till  they  attain  that  acme  of  beauty  which 
renders  them  a  load  for  a  camel.  The  dimensions  by  which  Fatima  had  cap- 
tivated her  royal  lover  were  very  enormous  ;  she  added  to  them  Arab  features 
and  long  black  hair.  This  queen  at  first  shrunk  back  with  horror  at  seeing 
before  her  that  monster,  a  Christian  ;  but  after  putting  various  questions, 
began  to  see  in  him  nothing  so  wholly  different  from  the  rest  of  mankind. 
She  presented  to  him  a  bowl  of  milk,  and  continued  to  show  him  the  only 
kindness  he  met  with  during  his  dreadful  captivity.  At  length  her  powerful 
intercession  induced  Ali  to  take  Park  with  him  to  Jarra,  where  our  traveler 
hoped  to  find  the  means  of  proceeding  on  his  journey. 

At  Jarra  a  striking  scene  occurred.  Ali,  through  avarice,  had  involved 
himself  in  the  quarrel  between  the  monarchs  of  Kaarta  and  Bambarra,  and  news 
arrived  that  Daisy  was  in  full  march  to  attack  the  town.  The  troops,  who 
ought  to  have  defended  the  place,  fled  at  the  first  onset,  and  nothing  remained 
for  the  inhabitants  but  to  abandon  it  and  escape  from  slaughter  or  slavery, 
the  dreadful  alternatives  of  African  conquest.  The  scene  was  affecting.  The 
local  attachments  of  the  African  are  strong  ;  and  the  view  of  this  disconsolate 
crowd  quitting  perhaps  forever  their  native  spot,  the  scene  of  their  early  life, 
and  where  they  had  fixed  all  their  hopes  and  desires,  presented  a  striking 
picture  of  human  calamity.  Park  would  now  very  gladly  have  presented 
himself  before  his  friend  Daisy;  but  being  afraid  that  in  the  confusion  he 
would  be  mistaken  for  a  Moor,  and  killed  as  such,  he  thought  it  a  safer  course 


324  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

to  join  the  retreat.  He  found  more  difficulty  in  escaping  than  he  had  ex- 
pected, being  seized  by  three  Mahommedans,  who  threatened  to  carry  him 
back  to  Ali,  but  finally  contented  themselves  with  robbing  him  of  his  cloak. 
In  flying  from  savage  man,  he  soon  found  himself  involved  in  a  danger  still 
more  alarming.  He  was  in  the  midst  of  an  immense  desert,  in  which  was 
neither  food  nor  a  drop  of  water.  Having  ascended  the  loftiest  tree  within 
his  reach,  he  could  see  no  boundary  to  the  scene  of  desolation.  The  pangs 
of  thirst  became  intolerable,  a  dimness  spread  over  his  eyes,  and  he  felt  as 
if  this  life,  with  all  its  mingled  joys  and  miseries,  was  about  to  close, — as  if 
all  the  hopes  of  glory  by  which  he  had  been  impelled  to  this  adventurous 
career  had  vanished,  and  he  was  to  perish  at  the  moment  when  a  few  days 
more  would  have  brought  him  to  the  Niger.  Suddenly  he  saw  a  flash  of 
lightning,  and  eagerly  hailed  it  as  a  portent  of  rain  ;  the  wind  then  began  to 
blow  among  the  bushes,  but  it  was  a  sand-wind  which  continued  for  an  hour 
to  fill  the  air.  At  last  there  burst  forth  a  brighter  flash,  followed  by  a  refresh- 
ing shower,  which  being  received  upon  his  clothes,  and  the  moisture  wrung 
out,  gave  him  new  life.  He  traveled  onward,  passing,  but  carefully  shun- 
ning, a  village  of  the  Moors,  when  thirst,  imperfectly  satisfied,  began  again  to 
torment  him.  Then  he  heard  a  heavenly  sound — the  croaking  of  frogs  ;  and 
soon  reached  the  muddy  pools  which  they  inhabited,  when  the  thirst  both  of 
himself  and  his  horse  was  thoroughly  quenched.  He  came  to  a  Foulah  vil- 
lage, called  Sherillah,  where  the  dooty,  or  chief  magistrate,  shut  the  door  in 
his  face,  and  refused  him  a  handful  of  corn  ;  however,  in  passing  the  suburbs, 
a  poor  woman  who  was  spinning  -cotton  in  front  of  her  hut,  invited  him  to 
enter,  and  set  before  him  a  dish  of  kouskous.  Next  day  he  was  hospitably 
received  by  a  negro  shepherd,  who  regaled  him  with  dates  and  boiled  corn  ; 
but  happening  to  pronounce  the  word  Nazarani  (Christian),  the  wife  and 
children  screamed  and  ran  out  of  the  house,  to  which  nothing  could  induce 
them  to  return. 

At  Wawra,  Park  considered  himself  beyond  the  reach  of  the  Moors  ;  and, 
being  kindly  received,  determined  to  rest  two  or  three  days.  When  he  was 
known  to  be  on  his  way  to  Sego,  the  capital,  several  women  came  and  be- 
sought him  to  ask  the  king  about  their  sons,  who  had  been  taken  away  to  the 
army.  One  had  neither  seen  nor  heard  of  hers  for  several  years  ;  she  declared 
he  was  no  heathen,  but  said  his  prayers  daily,  and  that  he  was  often  the  sub- 
ject of  her  dreams.  Leaving  this  place  he  came  to  Dingyee,  where  he 
seemed  invested  with  a  sacred  character,  a  man  earnestly  entreating  a  lock  of 
his  hair  to  be  used  as  a  saphie  or  charm  ;  and  receiving  permission  to  cut  it 
off,  he  contrived  to  crop  completely  one  side  of  the  head.  Proceeding  to- 
ward Sego,  he  joined  on  the  road  several  small  negro  parties;  but,  as  the  coun- 
try became  more  populous,  hospitality  was  less  common.  In  Moorja,  how- 
ever, though  mostly  peopled  by  Mahommedans,  he  found  gayety  and  abun- 
dance. He  next  passed  through  several  towns  and  villages,  which,  in  the 
late  war,  had  been  systematically  destroyed  ;  the  large  bentang  tree  under 
which  the  inhabitants  used  to  meet  had  been  cut  down,  the  wells  were  filled 
up,  and  everything  done  which  could  render  the  neighborhood  uninhabitable. 
He  passed  also  a  cqffle,  or  caravan,  of  about  seventy  slaves  tied  together  by 


ADVENTURES   IN   AFRICA.  325 

the  neck  with  thongs  of  bullocks'  hide  seven  slaves  upon  each  thong.  Hi? 
horse  was  now  so  completely  worn  out,  that,  instead  of  attempting  to  ride,  he 
was  content  to  drive  it  before  him.  Being  also  barefooted,  and  in  the  most 
miserable  plight,  he  afforded  a  subject  of  merriment  to  the  natives,  who  asked 
if  he  had  been  traveling  to  Mecca,  and  made  ironical  proposals  for  the  pur- 
chase of  his  horse  :  even  the  slaves  were  ashamed  to  be  seen  in  his  company. 

At  length,  the  near  approach  to  Sego,  was  indicated  by  crowds  hastening 
to  the  market ;  and  Mr.  Park  was  told  that  on  the  following  day,  the  21st  July, 
that  primary  object  of  his  search,  the  Joliba,  or  Great  Water,  would  appear 
before  him.  He  passed  a  sleepless  night,  but,  starting  before  day-break,  he 
had  the  satisfaction,  at  eight  o'clock,  to  see  the  smoke  rising  over  Sego.  He 
overtook  some  former  fellow  travelers,  and  in  riding  through  a  piece  of 
marshy  ground,  one  of  them  called  out,  geo  affilli  (see  the  water),  and  look- 
ing forward,  "  I  saw,"  says  he,  "with  infinite  pleasure,  the  great  object  of 
my  mission,  the  long-sought-for  majestic  Niger,  glittering  to  the  morning  sun, 
as  broad  as  the  Thames  at  Westminster,  and  flowing  slowly  to  the  eastward. 

I  hastened  to  the  brink,  and  having  drank  of  the  water,  lifted  up  my  fer- 
vent thanks  in  prayer  to  the  Great  Ruler  of  all  things,  for  having  thus  far 
crowned  my  endeavors  with  success." 

Mr.  Park  now  saw  before  him  Sego,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Bam- 
oarra.  It  consisted  of  four  separate  towns,  two  on  each  side  of  the  river, 
surrounded  with  high  mud  walls, — the  houses,  though  only  of  clay,  neatly 
white-washed, — the  streets  commodious,  with  mosques  rising  in  every  quar- 
ter. The  place  was  estimated  to  contain  about  thirty  thousand  inhabitants. 
The  numerous  canoes  on  the  river,  the  crowded  population,  and  the  cultivated 
state  of  the  surrounding  country,  presented  altogether  an  appearance  of  civi- 
lization and  magnificence  little  expected  in  the  bosom  of  Africa.  The  traveler 
sought  a  passage  to  Segosee-Korro,  the  quarter  where  the  king  resided ;  but 
owing  to  the  crowd  of  passengers,  he  was  detained  two  hours  ;  during  which 
time  his  majesty  was  apprised  that  a  white  man,  poorly  equipped,  was  about 
to  pass  the  river  to  seek  an  audience.  A  chief  was  immediately  sent,  with  an 
express  order  that  the  traveler  should  not  cross  without  his  majesty's  permis- 
sion, and  pointed  a  village  at  some  distance  where  it  was  recommended  that 
the  stranger  should  pass  the  night.  Park,  not  a  little  disconcerted,  repaired 
to  the  village  ;  but  as  the  order  had  not  been  accompanied  with  any  provision 
for  his  reception,  he  found  every  door  shut.  Turning  his  horse  loose  to 
graze,  he  was  preparing  as  a  security  from  wild  beasts,  to  climb  a  tree  and 
sleep  among  the  branches,  when  a  beautiful  and  affecting  incident  occurred, 
which  gives  a  most  pleasing  view  of  the  negro  character.  An  old  woman, 
returning  from  the  labors  of  the  field,  cast  on  him  a  look  of  compassion,  and 
desired  him  to  follow  her.  She  led  him  to  an  apartment  in  her  hut,  procured 
a  fine  fish,  which  she  broiled  for  his  supper,  and  spread  a  mat  for  him  to 
sleep  upon.  She  then  desired  her  maidens,  who  had  been  gazing  with  fixed 
astonishment  at  the  white  man,  to  resume  their  tasks,  which  they  continued 
to  ply  through  a  great  part  of  the  night.  They  cheered  their  labors  with 
a  song,  which  must  have  been  composed  extempore,  since  Mr.  Park,  with  deep 
emotion,   discovered   that  he  himself  was  the  subject  of  it.     It  said,  in  a 


326  ADVENTURES   IN    AFRICA. 

strain  of  affecting  simplicity, — "  The  winds  roared  and  the  rains  fell.  The 
poor  white  man,  faint  and  weary,  came  and  sat  under  our  tree.  He  has  no 
mother  to  bring  him  milk,  no  wife  to  grind  his  corn. —  Chorus — Let  us  pity 
the  white  man  no  mother  has  he,"  &c.  Our  traveler  was  much  affected,  and 
next  morning  could  not  depart  without  requesting  his  landlady's  acceptance 
of  the  only  gift  he  had  left,  two  out  of  the  four  brass  buttons  that  still 
remained  on  his  waistcoat. 

He  remained  two  days  in  this  village,  during  which  he  understood  that  he 
was  the  subject  of  much  deliberation  at  court,  the  Moors  and  slave-mer- 
chants giving  the  most  unfavorable  reports  of  his  character  and  purposes.  A 
messenger  came  and  asked  if  he  had  any  present,  and  seemed  much  disap- 
pointed on  being  told  that  the  Moors  had  robbed  him  of  everything.  On  the 
second  day  appeared  another  envoy,  bearing  an  injunction  from  Mansong 
that  the  stranger  should  not  enter  Sego,  but  proceed  forthwith  on  his  journey; 
to  defray  the  expenses  of  which,  a  bag,  containing  5000  cowries,  was  deli- 
vered to  him.  Mr.  Park  estimates  this  sum  at  only  twenty  shillings  ;  but, 
according  to  the  rate  of  provisions,  it  was  worth  much  more,  being  sufficient 
to  maintain,  for  fifty  days,  himself  and  his  horse. 

Two  davs  brouoht  our  traveler  to  Sansanding,  a  large  town  with  10,000 
inhabitants.  He  hoped  to  enter  unnoticed,  finding  himself  mistaken  by  the 
negroes  for  a  Moor.  Being  taken,  however,  before  Counti  Mamadi,  the 
dooty,  or  chief  magistrate,  he  found  a  number  of  Mahommedans,  who  denied 
the  supposed  national  connection,  and  regarded  him  with  their  usual  hatred 
and  suspicion.  Several  even  pretended  they  had  seen  him  before,  and  one 
woman  swore  that  she  had  kept  his  house  three  years  at  Gallam.  The  dooty 
put  a  negative  on  their  proposition  of  dragging  him  by  force  to  the  mosque  ; 
but  they  climbed  over  in  great  numbers  into  the  court  where  he  had  taken  up 
his  quarters  for  the  night,  insisting  that  he  should  perform  his  evening  devo- 
tions, and  eat  eggs.  The  first  proposal  was  positively  declined  ;  but  the  sec- 
ond he  professed  his  utmost  readiness  to  comply  with.  The  eggs  were 
accordingly  brought,  but  raw,  as  the  natives  imagined  it  a  part  of  European 
depravity  to  be  fond  of  them  in  that  state.  His  reluctance  to  eat  raw  eggs 
exalted  him  in  the  eyes  of  his  sage  visitants  ;  his  host  accordingly  killed  a 
sheep,  and  gave  him  a  plentiful  supper. 

His  route  now  lay  through  woods,  grievously  infested  with  all  kinds  of  wild 
animals.  His  guide  suddenly  wheeled  his  horse  round,  calling  out  "  Wara, 
billibilli! — a  very  large  lion!"  Mr.  Park's  steed  was  ill  fitted  to  convey 
him  from  the  scene  of  danger;  but,  seeing  nothing,  he  supposed  his  guide 
mistaken,  when  the  latter  exclaimed,  "  God  preserve  me  !"  and  the  traveler 
then  saw  a  very  large  red  lion,  with  the  head  couched  between  the  fore  paws. 
His  eyes  were  fixed  as  by  fascination  on  this  sovereign  of  the  beasts,  and  he 
expected  every  moment  the  fatal  spring ;  but  the  savage  animal,  either  not 
pressed  by  hunger,  or  struck  with  some  mysterious  awe,  remained  immova- 
ble, and  allowed  the  party  to  pass  unmolested.  Real  misery  arose  from  a 
meaner  cause,  namely,  the  amazing  swarms  of  musquitoes  which  ascend  from 
the  swamps  and  creeks,  and  to  whose  attack,  from  the  ragged  state  of  his 
garments,  he  was  exposed  at  every  point.     He  was  covered  all  over  with 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  327 

blisters,  and  at  night  could  get  no  rest.  An  affecting  crisis  next  arrived. 
His  horse,  the  faithful  and  suffering  companion  of  his  journey,  had  been 
daily  becoming  weaker.  At  length,  stumbling  over  some  rough  ground,  he 
fell :  all  his  master's  efforts  were  insufficient  to  raise  him,  and  no  alternative 
remained  but  to  leave  the  poor  animal  ;  which,  after  collecting  some  grass 
and  laying  it  before  him,  Mr.  Park  did,  not  without  a  sad  presentiment  that, 
erelong,  he  himself  might  in  like  manner  lie  down  and  perish  with  hunger 
and  fatigue. 

He  now  resolved  to  hire  a  boat,  in  which  he  was  conveyed  up  the  river  to 
Silla,  another  large  town,  where  his  reception  was  so  inhospitable  that  the 
dooty  reluctantly  permitted  him  to  take  shelter  from  the  rain  in  a  damp  shed. 
Half-naked,  worn  down  by  fatigue  and  sickness,  and  foreseeing  the  approach 
of  the  rains  by  which  the  whole  country  would  be  inundated,  Mr.  Park  began 
seriously  to  contemplate  his  situation.  All  the  obstacles  now  stated  were 
small,  when  compared  to  the  fact,  that,  in  proceeding  eastward,  he  would 
still  be  within  the  range  of  Moorish  influence.  He  learned,  that  at  Jenne, 
though  included  in  Bambarra,  the  municipal  power  was  chiefly  in  the  hands 
of  these  savage  and  merciless  fanatics,  who,  at  Timbuctoo  also,  held  the  en- 
tire sway.  On  these  grounds  he  felt  convinced  that  certain  destruction 
awaited  him  in  his  progress  eastward  ;  that  all  his  discoveries  would  perish 
with  himself;  and  that  his  life  would  be  sacrificed  in  vain.  His  only  hope, 
and  it  was  but  faint,  of  ever  reaching  England,  depended  upon  his  return 
westward,  and  on  his  proceeding  by  the  most  direct  route  to  the  coast.  On 
this  course  he  determined, — a  decision  which  was  fully  approved  both  by  his 
employers  and  by  the  public. 

During  his  stay  at  Silla,  he  used  every  effort  to  obtain  information  respect- 
ing the  more  eastern  countries,  particularly  the  kingdom  of  Timbuctoo,  and 
the  course  of  the  Niger.  He  was  told  that  the  next  great  city  along  that 
river  was  Jenne,  which  was  represented  as  very  flourishing,  and  larger  than 
Sego  or  any  other  place  in  Bambarra.  Lower  down,  the  river  spread  into 
an  expanse,  called  Dibbie  or  the  Dark  Lake,  so  extensive  that,  in  crossing  it, 
the  canoes  for  a  whole  day  lost  sight  of  land.  On  the  eastern  side,  the  Niger 
issued  out  of  this  lake  in  two  large  branches,  inclosing  the  alluvial  country 
of  Jinbala,  when  they  again  united  in  one  channel,  which  flowed  on  to  Kabra, 
the  port  of  Timbuctoo.  That  town,  situated  a  day's  journey  north  from  the 
Niger,  was  described  to  Mr.  Park  as  the  great  center  of  the  commerce  car- 
ried on  between  the  Moors  and  negroes,  by  means  of  which  the  former  people 
had  filled  it  with  Mohammedan  converts  ;  it  was  added,  that  the  king  and 
his  principal  officers  belonged  to  this  faith,  which  was  professed  there  with 
even  more  than  the  usual  bigotry.  An  old  negro  related,  that,  on  his  enter- 
ing a  public  inn,  the  landlord  laid  on  the  floor  a  mat  and  a  rope,  saying,  "  If 
you  are  a  Mussulman,  you  are  my  friend,  sit  down  on  this  mat ;  if  not,  you 
are  my  slave,  and  with  this  rope  ,1  will  lead  you  to  market."  The  king, 
named  Abu  Abrahima,  was  clothed  in  silk,  lived  in  great  pomp,  and  possessed 
immense  riches.  There  has  since  appeared  reason  to  suspect  that,  in  theso 
reports,  both  the  bigotry  and  the  splendor  of  Timbuctoo  were  somewhat 
exaggerated.     Beyond  this  city,  eastward,  there  was  said  to  be  a  great  king- 


328  \DVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

doin  called  Houssa,  with  a  capital  of  the  same  name,  situated  on  the  Niger. 
This  also  was  somewhat  inaccurate.  There  is  no  city  called  Houssa  ;  and 
the  term  is  applied,  not  to  a  kingdom,  but  to  an  extensive  region  comprehend- 
ing many  principalities,  and  through  which  the  Niger  does  not  pass. 

Having  formed  his  resolution,  he  forthwith  began  his  return  to  the  west- 
ward, and  at  Modiboo  met  with  an  unexpected  and  rather  pleasing  occur- 
rence. While  he  was  conversing  with  the  dooty,  a  horse  was  heard  to  neigh; 
upon  which  the  magistrate  asked,  smiling,  if  he  knew  who  was  speaking  to 
him — and  presently  going  out,  led  in  the  traveler's  own  horse,  greatly  re- 
cruited by  rest.  Mr.  Park  at  first  drove  the  animal  before  him,  but  afterward 
mounted,  and  found  him  of  great  benefit  in  passing  the  swamps  and  swollen 
rivulets  which  obstructed  his  route.  He  soon  learned  that  dangers,  even 
greater  than  he  was  aware  of,  had  beset  his  path.  The  king  of  Bambarra 
had  been  at  last  so  worked  upon  by  Moorish  counselors,  that,  repenting  even 
his  former  stinted  kindness,  he  had  sent  messengers  to  apprehend  Park,  and 
to  bring  him  a  prisoner  to  Sego;  from  which  fate  he  escaped  only  by  the  re- 
trograde direction  he  had  taken.  Thenceforth,  every  door  was  resolutely 
shut  against  him  ;  at  Sansanding,  his  best  friend,  Counti  Mamadi  privately 
paid  him  a  visit,  and  advised  him  to  leave  the  city  early  next  morning,  and 
to  make  no  delay  in  the  vicinity  of  the  capital.  Accordingly,  at  a  village 
near  that  city,  he  obtained  a  confirmation  of  the  above  tidings,  and  was  ex- 
horted to  lose  no  time  if  he  wished  to  get  safe  out  of  Bambarra.  He  then 
quitted  the  road,  and  struck  off  through  fields  and  swamps.  He  once  in 
tended  to  swim  across  the  Niger,  and  push  toward  the  Gold  Coast,  but  after- 
ward resolved  to  pursue  his  course  westward  along  the  river,  and  thus  ascer- 
tain its  precise  line.  He  had  now  nothing  to  subsist  on  except  what  charity 
bestowed,  which  was  only  an  occasional  handful  of  raw  corn.  There  was 
also  the  greatest  difficulty  in  finding  a  way  through  the  swampy  and  inunda- 
ted grounds.  Once  his  horse  and  he  sunk  together  to  the  neck  in  mud,  and 
came  out  so  completely  besmeared,  that  they  were  compared  by  the  natives 
to  two  dirty  elephants.  At  another  time,  when  he  had  stripped,  and  was 
leading  his  horse  through  a  river  that  took  him  up  to  the  neck,  a  friendly 
African  called  out,  that  he  would  perish  if  he  went  on,  and  undertook  to  pro- 
cure a  canoe  ;  but  when  he  came  out,  and  his  white  skin  was  distinctly  seen, 
the  stranger  put  his  hand  to  his  mouth,  exclaiming,  in  a  low  tone  of  amaze- 
ment, "  God  preserve  me  !  what  is  this  ?  "  He  continued  his  kindness,  however, 
and  at  Taffaro,  where  our  traveler  was  shut  out  from  every  house,  and 
obliged  to  sleep  under  a  tree,  brought  him  some  supper.  One  of  his  most 
disagreeable  encounters  was  at  Souha,  where  the  dooty,  after  a  surly  refusal 
of  every  refreshment,  called  upon  a  slave,  whom  he  ordered  to  dig  a  pit, 
uttering,  at  the  same  time,  expressions  of  anger  and  vexation.  The  hole  be- 
came always  deeper  and  deeper,  till  it  assumed  the  appearance  of  a  grave; 
and  Park,  who  saw  no  one  but  himself  likely  to  be  put  into  it,  began  to  think 
it  was  high  time  to  be  moving  off.  At  length  the  slave  went  away,  and  re- 
turned, holding  by  the  leg  and  arm,  the  naked  corpse  of  a  boy  about  nine 
years  old,  which  he  threw  in  with  an  air  of  savage  unconcern,  the  dooty  ex 
claiming,  "naphula  attiniata!  money  lost,  money  lost !  "     Mr.  Park  withdrew 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  329 

in  the  deepest  disgust  at  this  display  of  brutal  and  selfish  avarice.  The  only 
hearty  meal  he  obtained  for  many  days  was  from  a  Moslem  convert,  who, 
presenting  a  board,  entreated  him  to  write  a  saphie  upon  it,  the  return  foT 
which  would  be  a  good  supper  of  rice  and  salt.  This  was  too  important  an 
offer  to  be  rejected  from  nice  scruples.  He,  therefore,  covered  the  board 
with  the  Lord's  Prayer,  which  his  host  carefully  washed  off  and  drank,  after- 
ward licking  the  wood  with  his  tongue.  For  this,  in  addition  to  his  good  rice 
supper,  he  received  next  morning  a  breakfast  of  meal  and  milk. 

Our  traveler  now  arrived  at  Bammakoo,  where  the  level  country  on  this 
side  of  the  Niger  terminates  ;  but,  on  wishing  to  cross  to  the  other  bank,  he 
was  informed  that  the  river  would  not  be  fordable  for  several  months,  and 
that  no  canoe  could  be  procured  large  enough  to  transport  himself  and  his 
horse.  At  length  there  was  pointed  out  a  path,  rocky  and  difficult,  but 
through  which  he  might  contrive  to  pick  a  way  under  the  direction  of  a  Jilli- 
kea,  or  singing  man,  who  was  going  to  Sibidooloo.  The  track,  however, 
proved  excessively  rough  and  perilous ;  when  his  tuneful  conductor,  finding 
himself  mistaken  in  the  way,  sprang  up  among  the  cliffs,  and  quickly  disap- 
peared. Mr.  Park  was  obliged  to  return  and  search  among  a  number  of 
glens,  till  he  found  a  track  marked  by  the  tread  of  horses,  which  led  him  to 
£ooma,  a  beautiful  sequestered  village  in  the  heart  of  those  barren  moun- 
tains, where,  on  the  produce  of  a  small  fertile  valley,  the  inhabitants  lived  in 
peaceful  abundance.  They  showed  that  kind  hospitality  which  had  been  be- 
stowed only  scantily  and  occasionally  in  the  still  more  fruitful  regions  below. 
Mr.  Park  set  out  next  day  for  Sibidooloo  ;  but  on  this  route  his  last  and 
greatest  disaster  awaited  him.  In  passing  a  rivulet  he  found  a  shepherd,  who 
had  been  wounded  by  a  party  of  banditti,  and  soon  after  saw  a  man  sitting 
on  the  stump  of  a  tree,  while  from  among  the  grass  appeared  the  heads  of 
six  or  seven  others,  with  muskets  in  their  hands.  Seeing  it  impossible  to  es- 
cape, he  resolved  to  put  the  best  face  he  could  on  his  situation.  Pretending 
to  take  them  for  elephant-hunters,  he  went  up  and  asked  if  their  chase  had 
been  successful.  Instead  of  answering,  one  of  them  ordered  him  to  dis- 
mount; but  then,  as  if  recollecting  himself,  waved  with  his  hand  to  proceed. 
The  traveler  had  not  "-one  far  when  he  heard  voices  behind,  and,  looking 
round,  saw  them  all  in  full  pursuit,  calling  to  him  that  they  were  sent  to  carry 
himself  and  his  horse  before  the  king  of  the  Foulahs  at  Fooladoo.  He  did 
not  attempt  a  vain  resistance,  but  accompanied  them  till  they  came  to  a  dark 
spot  in  the  depth  of  the  wood,  when  one  of  them  said,  **  This  place  will  do." 
The  same  man  snatched  off  Mr.  Park's  hat ;  another  instantly  detached  the 
last  remaining  button  from  his  waistcoat;  the  rest  searched  his  pockets,  and 
investigated,  with  the  most  scrupulous  accuracy,  every  portion  of  his  apparel  ; 
at  last  they  determined  to  make  sure  work  by  stripping  him  to  the  skin.  As 
he  pointed  to  his  pocket-compass,  with  earnest  entreaty,  one  of  them  cocked 
a  pistol,  threatening,  if  he  should  touch  it,  to  shoot  him  through  the  head. 
As  they  were  carrying  off  everything,  they  were  seized  with  a  feeling  of  re- 
morse, and  threw  to  him  his  worst  shirt,  a  pair  of  trowsers,  and  his  hat,  inths 
crown  of  which  he  kept  his  memorandums. 

After  this  blow,  Mr.  Park  felt  a  deeper  depression  than  he  had  experienced 


330  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

under  any  former  disaster.  Naked  and  alone,  in  a  vast  wilderness,  500  miles 
from  any  settlement,  surrounded  by  savage  beasts  and  by  men  still  more  sav- 
age, he  saw  no  prospect  before  him  but  to  lie  down  and  perish.  From  this 
depth  of  despondency  his  mind  was  suddenly  revived  by  a  mingled  impres- 
sion of  nature  and  of  religion.  A  small  moss,  in  a  state  of  fructification, 
struck  his  eye,  the  delicate  conformation  of  whose  roots,  leaves,  and  capsule, 
could  not  be  contempleted  without  admiration.  He  then  bethought  himself, 
— "  Can  that  Being  who  planted,  watered,  and  brought  to  perfection,  in  this 
obscure  corner  of  the  world,  a  thing  which  appears  of  so  small  importance, 
look  with  unconcern  upon  the  situation  and  sufferings  of  creatures  formed 
after  his  own  image?"  Inspired  by  these  just  and  pious  reflections,  he 
started  up  and  went  on,  despite  of  fatigue  ;  and  he  soon  found  deliverance 
to  be  nearer  than  he  had  any  reason  to  anticipate. 

Having  arrived  at  Sibidooloo,  he  waited  on  the  mansa,  or  chief  ruler  of  the 
town,  and  related  his  misfortune  ;  when  the  latter,  taking  his  pipe  from  his 
mouth,  and  tossing  up  his  sleeve,  said,  with  an  indignant  air,  "  Sit  down,  you 
shall  have  everything  restored  to  you;  I  have  sworn  it."  He  then  ordered 
several  of  his  people  to  go  by  daybreak  next  morning  over  the  hills,  and  ob- 
tain the  assistance  of  the  dooty  of  Bammakoo  in  pursuing  the  robbers.  Thus 
relieved,  Mr.  Park  remained  two  days  in  this  hospitable  village,  but  found  it 
pressed  by  so  severe  a  famine  that  he  could  not  think  of  tasking  their  kind- 
ness any  longer,  and  went  on  to  a  town  called  Wonds.  Here  the  mansa, 
who  was  at  once  chief  magistrate  and  schoolmaster,  received  him  with  kind- 
ness ;  but  the  famine  was  felt  there  with  equal  severity.  Remarking  five  or 
six  women  who  came  daily  to  receive  an  allowance  of  corn  from  the  dooty,  he 
took  leave  to  ask  an  explanation.  "  Look  at  that  boy,"  said  the  magistrate, 
"  his  mother  has  sold  him  to  me  for  fifty  days'  subsistence  for  herself  and 
family."  Our  traveler,  having  during  his  stay  become  very  unwell,  heard 
the  hospitable  landlord  and  his  wife  lamenting  to  themselves  the  necessity  of 
supporting  him  till  he  should  either  recover  or  die. 

At  the  end  of  nine  days  messengers  arrived  from  Sibidooloo  with  Mr. 
Park's  horse,  harness,  clothes,  and  even  the  pocket  compas,  though  broken  ; 
all  of  which  had  been  recovered  by  the  exertions  of  the  mansa.  The  horse, 
being  reduced  to  a  skeleton,  and  quite  unfit  for  a  journey  over  the  flinty 
roads,  was  presented  to  his  landlord  ;  the  saddle  and  bridle  were  sent  to  his 
generous  friend  at  Sibidooloo.  Then,  sick  as  he  was,  our  traveler  took  leave, 
and  went  through  several  towns  in  the  mountain  territory  of  Manding,  where 
he  was,  on  the  whole,  hospitably  treated.  His  arrival  at  Kamalia  formed  a 
most  important  era.  There  he  met  Karfa  Taura,  a  negro,  who  was  collecting  a 
coffle  of  slaves  for  the  Gambia.  Carfa  told  him  it  was  impossible  at  this 
season  to  traverse  the  Jallonka  wilderness,  in  which  there  were  eight  rapid 
rivers  to  be  crossed  ;  but  he  offered  to  support  him  in  the  interval,  and  con- 
duct him  at  the  proper  season  to  the  Gambia,  asking  only  a  reasonable  com- 
pensation, which  was  fixed  at  the  value  of  a  prime  slave.  Mr.  Park  was 
thus  seasonably  delivered  from  all  his  troubles,  and  obtained  a  more  certain 
prospect  of  reaching  home  in  safety. 

He  no  longer  encountered  those  difficulties  and  vicissitudes  which  had  ren- 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  331 

dered  the  former  part  of  his  journey  so  full  of  interest  and  adventure.  In 
traversing  the  high  countries  of  Manding,  Konkodoo,  and  Dindikoo,  the 
chief  object  of  which  attracted  his  attention  was  the  mode  of  extracting  gold. 
This  precious  metal  did  not  occur  in  the  form  of  ore,  or  in  large  masses,  but 
its  grains  were  mingled  with  a  species  of  dust  or  sand.  This  golden  earth 
appears  to  be  chiefly  washed  down  by  torrents  from  the  summit  of  the  neigh- 
boring chain  of  mountains  ;  but  it  is  collected  with  most  advantage  after  the 
ground  is  dry  and  the  harvest  removed.  Being  indicated  by  its  reddish  tinge, 
it  is  put  into  large  baskets,  called  calabashes,  and  agitated  with  a  rotatory 
motion,  so  that  at  every  turn  a  portion  of  light  sand  mixed  with  water  flies 
over  the  brim.  The  weightier  parts  then  remaining  are  mixed  with  pure 
water,  stirred,  and  carefully  examined  ;  and  it  is  considered  satisfactory  if 
three  or  four  grains  are  found  in  the  whole  basket.  The  dust  is  preserved 
in  quills,  which  are  often  stuck  in  the  hair  as  ornaments. 

The  most  formidable  part  of  the  journey  homeward  was  through  the  Jal- 
lonka  wilderness,  a  vast  and  very  dense  forest,  in  which  the  caravan  traveled 
during  five  days  without  seeing  a  human  habitation.  They  marched  in  close 
and  regular  order,  to  protect  the  party  against  the  attack  of  wild  beasts, 
whose  roarings  were  heard  continually  around  them,  and  to  which  every  one 
who  straggled  was  sure  to  fall  a  victim.  Such,  too  probably,  was  the  lot  of 
Nealee,  a  female  slave,  who,  either  from  obstinacy  or  from  excessive  fatigue, 
refused  to  proceed  any  further  ;  and  after  vain  attempts  to  compel  her  by  the 
whip,  she  was  abandoned  to  her  fate.  On  emerging  from  this  forest,  they 
had  no  difficulty  in  passing  through  the  fine  open  country  of  Dentila,  and  the 
smaller  wilderness  of  Tenda.  Mr.  Park  was  again  on  the  Gambia  ;  and  on 
the  10th  of  June,  1797,  reached  Pisania,  where  he  was  received  as  one  risen 
from  the  dead  ;  for  all  the  traders  from  the  interior  had  believed  and  reported, 
that,  like  Major  Houghton,  he  was  murdered  by  the  Moors  of  Ludamar. 
Karfa,  his  benefactor,  received  double  the  stipulated  price,  and  was  over- 
powered with  gratitude  ;  but  when  he  saw  the  commodious  furniture,- the 
skillful  manufactures,  the  superiority  in  all  the  arts  of  life,  displayed  by  the 
Europeans,  when  compared  with  the  attainments  of  his  countrymen,  he  was 
deeply  mortified,  and  exclaimed,  "  Black  men  are  nothing,"  expressing  his 
surprise  that  Park  could  find  any  motive  for  coming  to  so  miserable  a  land 
as  Africa. 

Mr.  Park  had  some  difficulty  in  reaching  home.  He  was  obliged  to  em- 
bark, on  the  15th  of  June,  in  a  vessel  bound  to  America,  and  was  afterward 
driven  by  stress  of  weather  into  the  island  of  Antigua,  whence  he  sailed  on 
the  24th  November,  and  on  the  22d  December  arrived  at  Falmouth.  He 
reached  London  before  dawn  on  the  morning  of  Christmas-day,  and,  in  the 
garden  of  the  British  Museum,  accidentally  met  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Dick- 
son. The  interval  of  two  years  having  elapsed  since  any  tidings  of  him 
reached  England,  had  caused  him  to  be  given  up  for  lost,  so  that  his  friends 
and  the  public  were  equally  astonished  and  delighted  by  his  reappearance. 
The  report  of  his  unexpected  return,  after  making  such  splendid  discoveries, 
kindled  throughout  the  nation  a  higher  enthusiasm  than  had  perhaps  been 
excited  by  the  result  of  any  former  mission  of  the  same  nature.     To  satisfy 


332  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

the  public  impatience,  an  outline  was  drawn  up  by  Mr.  Bryan  Edwards,  ac- 
companied with  learned  and  able  geographical  illustrations  by  Major  Remnel. 
The  entire  narrative  was  published  early  in  1799,  and  beside  the  interest  in- 
separable from  the  remarkable  events  which  itt  describes,  the  merit  of  being 
written  in  a  pleasing  and  animated  style  has  rendered  it  one  of  the  most  pop- 
ular books  in  the  English  language. 


CHAPTEK   II. 

Pake's  second  journey. — Views  under  which  he  was  sent  out — Departure — Overtaken  by 
the  Rainy  Season — Great  Sickness  and  Distress— Embarks  on  the  Niger — Negotiations 
with  the  King  of  Bambarra— Obtains  permission  to  build  a  Vessel — Sansanding — Sets 
sail— Accounts  of  his  death— Expeditions  of  H^raeraan,  and  Nichols— Riley,  Tuckey, 
Peddie,  Campbell,  Gray  and  Ritchie — Denham's  and  Clapperton's  Expedition — Clapper- 
ton — Laing — Caile — Expedition  of  the  brothers  Lander — Mouth  of  the  Niger  discovered 
by  the  Landers — Laird,  Oldfield,  and  Richard  Lander's  Expediti  :n — Death  of  Landers- 
Subsequent  Expeditions — the  Foul ahs— Northern  Africa  and  the  Great  Desert — Civiliza- 
tion of  Africa. 

Tee  discoveries  of  Park,  in  his  first  journey,  though  the  most  splendid 
made  by  any  modern  traveler,  rather  excited  than  satisfied  the  national  curi- 
osity. The  Niger  had  been  seen  flowing  eastward  into  the  interior  of  Africa  ; 
and  hence  a  still  deeper  interest  and  mystery  were  suspended  over  the  future 
course  and  termination  of  this  great  central  stream.  Kingdoms  had  been 
discovered,  more  flourishing  and  more  populous  than  any  formerly  known 
in  that  continent ;  but  other  kingdoms,  still  greater  and  more  wealthy,  were 
reported  to  exist  in  regions  which  he  had  vainly  attempted  to  reach.  The 
luster  of  his  achievements  had  diffused  among  the  public  in  general  an  ardor 
for  discovery,  which  was  formerly  confined  to  a  few  enlightened  individuals. 
It  was  evident,  however,  that  the  efforts  of  no  private  association  could  pen- 
etrate the  depths  of  this  vast  continent,  and  overcome  the  obstacles  presented 
by  its  distance,  its  deserts,  and  its  barbarism.  Thus  it  became  necessary  for 
George  II.I,  the  patron  and  employer  of  Cook,  to  come  forward  as  the  pro- 
moter of  discovery  in  this  new  sphere.  In  October,  1801,  accordingly,  Mr. 
Park  was  invited  by  government  to  undertake  an  expedition  on  a  larger  scale 
into  the  interior  of  Africa.  Having  in  the  meantime  married  the  daughter 
of  Mr.  Anderson,  with  whom  he  had  served  his  apprenticeship  as  a  surgeon, 
and  having  entered  with  some  success  on  the  practice  of  his  profession  in  the 
neighboring  town  of  Peebles,  it  was  supposed  that,  content  with  laurels  so 
dearly  earned,  he  had  renounced  a  life  of  peril  and  adventure.  But  none 
of  these  ties  could  detain  him,  when  the  invitation  was  given  to  renew  and 
complete  his  splendid  career.  His  mind  had  been  brooding  on  the  sub 
ject  with  enthusiastic  ardor.  He  had  held  much  intercourse  with  Mr.  Max- 
well, a  gentleman  who  had  long  commanded  a  vessel  in  the  African  trade,  by 
whom  he  was  persuaded  that  the  Zaire,  or  Congo,  which,  since  its  discovery 
by  the  Portuguese,  had  been  almost  lost  sight  of  by  Europeans,  would  prove 
to  be  the  channel  by  which  the  Niger,  after  watering  all  the  regions  of  Inte- 
rior Africa,  enters  the  Atlantic.  The  scientific  world  were  very  much  dis- 
posed to  adopt  Park's  views  on  this  subject ;  and  accordingly  the  whole  plan 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  333 

of  the  expedition  was  adjusted  with  an  avowed  reference  to  them.  The  agi 
tation  of  the  public  mind,  by  the  change  of  ministry  and  the  war  with 
France,  delayed  further  proceedings  till  1804,  when  he  was  desired  by  Lord 
Camden,  the  colonial  secretary,  to  make  his  arrangements,  with  an  assurance 
of  being  supplied  with  every  means  necessary  for  their  accomplishment.  The 
course  which  he  now  suggested  was,  that  he  should  no  longer  travel  as  a 
single  and  unprotected  wanderer  ;  his  experience  decided  him  against  such  a 
mode  of  proceeding.  He  proposed  to  take  with  him  a  small  party,  who, 
being  well  armed  and  disciplined,  might  face  almost  any  force  which  the  na- 
tives could  oppose  to  them  ;  with  these  to  proceed  direct  to  Sego  ;  to  build 
there  two  boats  forty  feet  long,  and  from  thence  to  sail  downward  to  the  es- 
tuary of  the  Congo.  Instructions  were  sent  out  to  Goree  that  he  should  be 
furnished  liberally  with  men,  and  with  everything  else  of  which  he  might 
stand  in  need. 

Mr.  Park  sailed  from  Portsmouth  in  the  Crescent  transport  on  the  30th 
January,  1805.  About  the  8th  March,  he  arrived  at  the  Cape  Verd  Islands  ; 
and  on  the  28th  reached  Goree.  There  he  provided  himself  with  an  officer 
and  thirty-five  soldiers,  and  with  a  large  stock  of  asses  from  the  islands, 
where  the  breed  of  these  animals  is  excellent,  and  which  appeared  well  fitted 
for  traversing  the  rugged  hills  of  the  high  country  whence  issue  the  Senegal 
and  Niger.  He  took  with  him  also  two  sailors  and  four  artificers,  who  had 
oeen  sent  from  England.  But  before  all  these  measures  could  be  completed 
a  month  had  elapsed,  and  it  was  then  evident  that  the  rainy  season  could  not 
t;e  far  distant, — a  period  in  which  traveling  is  very  difficult,  and  injurious 
to  European  constitutions.  It  is  clear,  therefore,  that  it  would  have  been 
r> rodent  to  remain  at  Goree  or  Pisania  till  that  season  had  passed  ;  but,  in 
Mr.  Park's  elevated  and  enthusiastic  state  of  mind,  it  would  have  been  ex- 
tremely painful  to  have  lingered  so  long  on  the  eve  of  his  grand  and  favorite 
undertaking.  He  hoped,  and  it  seemed  possible,  that  before  the  middle  of 
June,  when  the  rains  usually  begin,  he  might  reach  the  Niger,  which  could 
then  be  navigated  without  any  very  serious  toil  or  exposure.  He  departed, 
therefore,  with  his  little  band  from  Pisania,  on  the  4th  May,  and  proceeded 
through  Medina,  along  the  banks  of  the  Gambia.  With  so  strong  a  party, 
he  was  no  longer  dependent  on  the  protection  of  the  petty  kings  and  mansas  ; 
but  the  Africans,  seeing  him  so  well  provided,  thought  he  had  no  longer  any 
claim  on  their  hospitality  ;  on  the  contrary,  they  eagerly  seized  every  oppor- 
tunity to  obtain  some  portion  of  the  valuable  articles  which  they  saw  in  his 
possession.  Thefts  were  common  ;  the  kings  drove  a  hard  bargain  for 
presents  ;  at  one  place  the  women,  with  immense  labor,  had  emptied  all  the 
wells,  that  they  might  derive  an  advantage  from  selling  the  water.  Submit- 
ting quietly  to  these  little  annoyances,  Mr.  Park  proceeded  along  the  Gam- 
bia, till  he  saw  it  flowing  from  the  south  between  the  hills  of  Foota  Jalla  and 
a  high  mountain  called  Muianta.  Turning  his  face  almost  due  west,  he 
passed  the  streams  of  the  Ba  Lee,  the  Ba  Fing,  and  the  Ba  Woollima,  the 
three  principal  tributaries  of  the  Senegal.  This  change  of  direction  led  him 
through  a  tract  much  more  pleasing  than  that  which  he  passed  in  his  dreary 
return  through  lallonka  and  its  wilderness.     The  villages,  built  in  delightful 


334  ADVENTURES  IN    AFRICA. 

mountain-glens,  and  looking  from  their  elevated  precipices  over  a  great  ex- 
tent of  wooded  plain,  appeared  romantic  beyond  anything  he  had  ever  seen. 
The  rocks  near  Sullo  assumed  every  possible  diversity  of  form,  towering  like 
ruined  castles,  spires  and  pyramids.  One  mass  of  granite  so  strongly  re- 
sembled the  remains  of  a  Gothic  Abbey,  with  its  niches  and  ruined  staircase, 
that  it  required  some  time  to  satisfy  him  that  it  was  composed  wholly  of  nat- 
ural stone.  The  crossing  of  the  rivers,  now  swelled  to  a  considerable  mag- 
nitude, was  attended  with  many  difficulties  ;  and  in  one  of  them  Isaaco,  the 
guide,  was  nearly  devoured  by  a  crocodile. 

It  was  near  Satadoo,  soon  after  passing  the  Falene,  that  the  party  expe- 
rienced the  first  tornado,  which,  marking  the  commencement  of  the  rainy 
season,  proved  for  them  "  the  beginning  of  sorrow."  In  these  tornadoes, 
violent  storms  of  thunder  and  lightning  are  followed  by  deluges  of  rain, 
which  cover  the  ground  three  feet  deep,  and  have  a  peculiarly  malignant  in- 
fluence on  European  constitutions.  In  three  days  twelve  men  were  on  the 
sick  list.  The  natives,  as  they  saw  the  strength  of  the  expedition  decline, 
became  more  bold  and  frequent  in  their  predatory  attacks.  At  Gambia  at- 
tempts were  made  to  overpower,  by  main  force,  the  whole  party,  and  seize 
all  they  possessed  ;  but  the  assault  was  repelled  without  bloodshed,  by  their 
merely  presenting  their  muskets.  At  Maniakarro  the  whole  population  hung 
on  their  rear  for  a  considerable  time,  headed  by  thirty  of  the  king's  sons  ; 
and  great  delicacy  was  felt  as  to  the  mode  of  dealing  with  these  august 
thieves,  so  long  as  their  proceedings  were  not  quite  intolerable.  One  of  them 
came  up,  and  engaged  Mr.  Park  in  conversation,  while  another  ran  off  with 
his  fowling-piece  ;  and,  on  his  attempting  pursuit,  the  first  took  the  opportu- 
nity of  seizing  his  great  coat.  Orders  were  now  given  to  fire  on  all  depre- 
dators, royal  or  plebeian  ;  and,  after  a  few  shots  had  been  discharged  without 
producing  any  fatal  effects,  the  thieves  hid  themselves  among  the  rocks,  and 
were  merely  seen  peeping  through  the  crevices. 

The  expedition  continued  to  melt  away  beneath  the  deadly  influence  of  an 
African  climate.  Every  day  added  to  the  list  of  sick  or  dead,  or  of  those 
who  declared  themselves  unable  to  proceed.  Near  Bangassi,  four  men  lay 
down  at  once  ;  it  was  even  with  difficulty  that  Mr.  Park  dragged  forward 
his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Anderson,  while  he  himself  felt  very  sick  and  faint. 
His  spirits  were  about  to  sink  entirely,  when,  coming  to  an  eminence,  he  ob- 
tained a  distant  view  of  the  mountains,  the  southern  base  of  which  he  knew 
to  be  watered  by  the  Niger.  Then  indeed  he  forgot  his  fever,  and  thought 
only  of  climbing  the  blue  hills  which  delighted  his  eyes. 

But  three  weeks,  during  which  he  experienced  the  greatest  difficulty  and 
suffering,  elapsed  before  he  could  arrive  at  that  desired  point.  At  length  he 
reached  the  summit  of  the  ridge  which  divides  the  Senegal  from  the  Niger, 
and  coming  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  saw  again  this  majestic  river  rolling  its 
immense  stream  along  the  plain.  Yet  his  situation  and  prospects  were 
gloomy  indeed,  when  compared  to  those  with  which  he  had  left  the  banks 
of  the  Gambia.  Of  thirty-eight  men  whom  he  then  had  with  him,  there  sur- 
vived only  seven,  all  suffering  from  severe  sickness,  and  some  nearly  at  the 
last  extremity.     Still  his  mind  was  full  of  the  most  sanguine  hope,  especially 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  335 

when  on  the  22d  August,  he  felt  himself  floating  on  the  waters  of  the  Niger, 
acd  advancing  toward  the  ultimate  object  of  his  ambition.  He  hired  canoes 
to  convey  his  party  to  Marraboo  ;  and  the  river,  here  a  mile  in  breadth,  waa 
so  full  and  so  deep,  that  its  current  carried  him  easily  over  the  rapids,  but 
with  a  rapidity  which  was  even  in  a  certain  degree  painful. 

At  Marraboo  he  sent  forward  the  interpreter,  Isaaco,  to  Mansong  with  part 
of  the  presents,  and  to  treat  with  that  monarch  for  protection,  as  well  as  for 
permission  to  build  a  boat.  This  envoy  was  absent  several  days,  during 
which  great  anxiety  was  felt,  heightened  by  several  unfavorable  rumors, 
among  which  was,  that  the  king  had  killed  him  with  his  own  hand  and  an- 
nounced his  purpose  to  do  the  same  to  every  white  man  that  should  come 
within  his  reach.  These  fears  were  dispelled  by  the  appearance  of  the  royal 
singing  man,  who  brought  a  message  of  welcome,  with  an  invitation  to  repair 
to  Sego,  and  deliver  in  person  the  remaining  presents  intended  for  the 
monarch.  At  Samee  the  party  met  Isaaco,  who  reported  that  there  was 
something  very  odd  in  the  reception  which  he  had  received  from  Mansong. 
That  prince  assured  him,  in  general,  that  the  expedition  would  be  allowed  to 
pass  down  the  Niger  ;  but  whenever  the  latter  came  to  particulars,  and  pro- 
posed an  interview  with  Mr.  Park,  the  king  began  to  draw  squares  and  tri- 
angles with  his  finger  on  the  sand  ;  and  in  this  geometrical  operation  his 
mind  seemed  wholly  absorbed.  Isaaco  suspected  that  he  labored  under  some 
superstitious  dread  of  white  men,  and  sought  by  these  figures  to  defend  him- 
self against  their  magic  influence.  It  was  finally  arranged  that  the  presents 
should  be  delivered,  not  to  Mansong  in  person,  but  to  Modibinne,  his  prime 
minister,  who  was  to  come  to  Samee  for  that  purpose.  He  accordingly  ap- 
peared, and  began  by  requiring,  in  the  king's  name,  an  explanation  why 
Park  had  come  to  Bambarra  with  so  great  a  train  from  so  distant  a  country, — 
allowing  him  a  day  to  prepare  his  reply.  Next  morning  the  traveler  gave  an 
answer  in  form,  representing  his  mission  as  chiefly  commercial,  and  holding 
forth  the  advantages  which  Bambarra  might  reap  by  receiving  European 
goods  directly  from  the  coast,  instead  of  circuitously,  as  now,  through  Mo- 
rocco, the  Desert,  Timbuctoo,  and  Jenne,  having  a  profit  levied  upon  them 
at  every  transfer.  Modibinne  expressed  satisfaction  both  with  the  reasons 
and  with  the  presents  ;  and  on  his  return  next  day  offered,  on  the  part  of 
Mansong,  the  option  of  building  a  boat  either  at  Samee,  Sego,  Sansanding, 
or  Jenne.  Park  chose  Sansanding,  thus  enabling  the  king  to  avoid  a  per- 
sonal interview  with  the  Europeans,  of  which  he  seemed  to  entertain  so  mys- 
terious a  dread. 

The  voyage  down  the  river  was  distressing  ;  for,  though  the  fatigue  of 
traveling  was  avoided,  the  heat  was  so  intense  that  it  was  thought  sufficient 
to  have  roasted  a  sirloin  ;  and  the  sick  had  thus  no  chance  of  recovery.  San- 
sanding was  found  a  prosperous  and  flourishing  town,  with  a  crowded  market 
remarkably  well-arranged.  The  leading  articles,  which  were  cloth  of 
Houssa  or  Jenne,  antimony,  beads,  and  indigo,  were  each  arranged  in  stalls; 
shaded  by  mats  from  the  heat  of  the  sun.  There  was  a  separate  market  foi 
sait,  the  main  staple  of  their  trade.  The  whole  presented  a  scene  of  commer- 
cial order  and  activity  totally  unlooked-for  in  the  interior  of  Africa. 


336  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

Mansong  had  promised  to  furnish  two  boats;  but  they  were  late  in  arriving, 
and  proved  very  defective.  In  order  to  raise  money,  it  was  necessary  to  sell 
a  considerable  quantity  of  goods.  Nor  was  it  without  much  trouble  that  the  two 
skiffs  were  finally  converted  into  the  schooner  Joliba,  forty  feet  long,  six 
broad,  and  drawing  only  one  foot  of  water,  the  fittest  form  for  navigating  the 
Niger  downward  to  the  ocean. 

During  Park's  stay  at  Sansanding  he  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  his 
brother-in-l.uy,  Mr.  Anderson,  to  whom  his  attachment  was  so  strong  as  to 
make  him  say, — "  No  event  which  took  place  during  the  journey  ever  threw 
the  smallest  gloom  over  my  mind  till  I  laid  Mr.  Anderson  in  the  grave.  I 
then  felt  myself  as  if  left  a  second  time  lonely  and  friendless  amid  the  wilds 
of  Africa."  Though  the  party  was  now  reduced  to  five  Europeans,  one  of 
whom  was  deranged,  and  though  the  most  gloomy  anticipations  could  not  fail 
to  rise  in  the  mind  of  our  traveler,  his  firmness  was  in  no  decree  shaken. 
He  announced  to  Lord  Camden  his  fixed  purpose  to  discover  the  termination 
of  the  Niger,  or  to  perish  in  the  attempt ;  adding,  "  Though  all  the  Europeans 
who  are  with  me  should  die,  and  though  I  were  myself  half-dead,  I  would 
still  persevere."  To  Mrs.  Park  he  announced  the  same  determination,  com- 
bined with  an  undoubting  confidence  of  success  ;  and  the  commencement  of 
his  voyage  down  the  Niger,  through  the  vast  unknown  regions  of  Interior 
Africa,  he  called  "  turning  his  face  toward  England. " 

It  was  on  the  17th  November,  1805,  that  Park  set  sail  on  his  last  and  fatal 
voyage.  A  long  interval  elapsed  without  any  tidings,  which,  considering  the 
great  distance  and  the  many  causes  of  delay,  did  not  at  first  excite  alarm  in 
his  friends.  As  the  following  year  however,  passed  on,  rumors  of  an  un- 
pleasant nature  began  to  prevail.  Alarmed  by  these,  and  feeling  a  deep 
interest  in  his  fate,  Governor  Maxwell  of  Sierra  Leone  engaged  Isaaco  the 
guide,  who  had  been  sent  to  the  Gambia  with  dispatches  from  the  Niger,  to 
undertake  a  fresh  journey  to  inquire  after  him.  At  Sansanding,  Isaaco  was 
so  far  fortunate  as  to  meet  Amadi  Fatouma,  who  had  been  engaged  to  suc- 
ceed himself  as  interpreter.  From  him  he  received  a  journal  purporting  to 
contain  the  narrative  of  the  voyage  down  the  river,  and  of  its  final  issue.  The 
party,  it  would  appear,  had  purchased  three  slaves,  who,  with  the  five  Eu- 
ropeans and  Fatouma,  increased  their  number  to  nine.  They  passed  Silla 
and  Jenne  in  a  friendly  manner  ;  but  at  Rakbara  (Kabra)  and  Timbuctoo 
several  armed  parties  came  out  to  attack  them,  who  were  repelled  only  by  a 
smart  and  destructive  fire.  No  particulars  are  given  of  any  of  those  important 
places  ;  nor  of  KafFo,  Gottoijege,  and  others,  which  the  discoverers  are  repre- 
sented as  having  afterward  passed.  At  length  they  came  to  the  village  (more 
properly  city)  of  Yaour,  where  Amadi  Fatouma  left  the  party,  his  services 
having  been  engaged  only  to  that  point.  He  had,  however,  scarcely  taken 
his  leave,  when  he  was  summoned  before  the  King,  who  bitterly  complained 
that  the  white  men,  though  they  brought  many  valuable  commodities  with 
them,  had  passed  without  giving  him  any  presents.  He  therefore  ordered 
that  Fatouma  s'hould  be  thrown  into  irons,  and  a  body  of  troops  sent  in  pur- 
suit of  the  English.  These  men  reached  Boussa,  and  took  possession  of  a 
pass,  where  rocks,  hemming  in  the  river,  allow  only  a  narrow  channel  fci 


ADVENTURES   IN  AFRICA.  337 

vessels  to  descend.  When  Park  arrived,  he  found  the  passage  thus  obstructed, 
but  attempted,  nevertheless,  to  push  his  way  through.  "  The  people  began 
to  attack  him,  throwing  lances,  pikes,  arrows  and  stones.  He  defended  him- 
self for  a  long  time ;  when  two  of  his  slaves  at  the  stern  of  the  canoe  were 
killed.  The  crew  threw  everything  they  had  into  the  river,  and  kept  firing; 
but  being  overpowered  by  numbers  and  fatigue,  and  unable  to  keep  up  the 
canoe  against  the  current,  and  seeing  no  probability  of  escaping,  Mr.  Park- 
took  hold  of  one  of  the  white  men,  and  jumped  into  the  water.  Martyn  did 
the  same,  and  they  were  all  drowned  in  the  stream  in  attempting  to  escape. 
The  only  slave  that  remained  in  the  boat,  seeing  the  natives  persist  in  throw- 
ing weapons  into  it  without  ceasing,  stood  up  and  said  to  them, — '  Stor. 
throwing  now  ;  you  see  nothing  in  the  canoe,  and  nobody  but  myself  ;  there- 
fore cease.  Take  me  and  the  canoe,  but  don't  kill  me.'  They  took  possession 
of  both,  and  carried  them  to  the  king." 

These  sad  tidings,  conveyed  in  course  to  England,  were  not  for  a  long 
time  received  with  general  belief.  The  statement,  being  sifted  with  care,  was 
thought  to  contain  inconsistencies,  as  well  as  such  a  degree  of  improbability 
as  left  some  room  for  hope.  But  as  year  after  year  elapsed,  this  hope  died 
away;  and  Denham  and  Clapperton,  in  their  late  expedition,  received  accounts 
from  various  quarters  which  very  nearly  coincided  with  those  of  Amadi 
Fatouma.  Park's  adventures,  they  found,  had  excited  the  deepest  interest 
throughout  Africa.  Clapperton,  in  his  last  journey,  even  saw  the  spot  where 
he  perished,  which,  allowing  for  some  exaggeration,  did  not  ill  correspond 
with  the  description  just  given.  Nay,  he  received  notice,  that  Park's  manu- 
scripts were  in  the  possession  of  the  king  or  chief  of  Yaour  or  Youri,  who 
offered  to  deliver  them  up  on  condition  that  the  captain  would  pay  him  a 
visit,  which,  he  unfortunately  was  never  able  to  perform. 

From  1800  to  1822,  various  attempts  were  made  to  penetrate  after  Park 
into  the  heart  of  Nigritia.  In  1800  a  German,  named  Hornemann,  succeeded 
in  penetrating  to  the  Niger,  but  nothing  was  heard  of  him  for  a  quarter  of  a 
century,  when  Clapperton  ascertained  that  he  had  died  of  dysentery.  In 
1804,  another  enterprising  spirit,  Mr.  Nichols,  endeavored  to  penetrate  to  the 
interior  from  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  but  perished  at  the  outset  from  a  pestilen- 
tial fever  of  the  country.  In  1809,  Roentger,  a  second  German  explorer, 
proceeded  from  Morocco,  but  was  murdered  in  the  Great  Desert  by  his  guides. 
Another  individual,  James  Riley,  supercargo  of  the  American  brig  Commerce, 
was  cast  away  in  the  year  1815,  on  the  borders  of  the  Great  Desert  of  Saha- 
ra, near  Cape  Bojador. 

The  crew,  on  landing,  were  assailed  by  a  small  band  of  armed  natives, 
whose  appearance  indicated  the  utmost  degree  of  poverty  and  ferocity.  They 
began  forthwith  an  indiscriminate  plunder,  emptied  trunks,  boxes,  and  casks, 
cut  open  the  beds,  and  amused  themselves  with  seeing  the  feathers  fly  before 
the  wind.  The  sailors,  in  the  meanwhile,  were  endeavoring  to  patch  up  their 
long  boat  as  a  means  of  escape,  but  were  greatly  mortified,  on  the  approach 
of  dawn,  to  observe  from  their  shattered  wreck,  on  which  they  had  passed  a 
melancholy  night,  a  much  more  numerous  band  of  these  merciless  savages. 
By  perfidious  gestures  addressed  to  the  captain,  whom  they  had  recognized 
22 


338  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

as  commander,  they  now  induced  Mr.  Riley  to  land,  upon  which  they  put 
their  daggers  to  his  breast.  He  contrived,  however,  by  stratagem,  to  make 
his  escape  to  the  long-boat  which  was  attached  to  the  ship,  when  the  crew 
immediately  pushed  out  to  sea,  resolved  to  brave  all  the  dangers  of  that  ele- 
ment. Accordingly,  they  worked  a  little  way  along  the  shore,  incessantly 
employed  in  baling  their  crazy  bark  ;  but  as  the  leaks  increased,  while  provi- 
sions and  water  failed,  Riley  and  his  men  came  to  the  conclusion,  that  by  re- 
maining at  sea  they  must  perish,  and  on  land  they  could  do  no  more.  They 
retouched  the  coast  near  Cape  Barbas  on  the  8th  September,  but  finding  it  to 
consist  of  perpendicular  rocks,  they  walked  four  miles,  and  finally  clambered 
up  broken  fragments,  almost  at  the  risk  of  life,  ere  they  could  reach  the 
summit.  But  what  a  scene  was  there  presented  !  Before  them  extended  an 
immeasurable  plain,  without  a  shrub,  plant,  or  a  blade  of  grass  ;  nothing  that 
even  for  a  moment  could  support  human  life.  They  fell  to  the  ground,  ex- 
claiming, **  'Tis  enough  ! — here  we  must  breathe  our  last  !  "  From  such  utter 
despair  even  the  horrors  of  African  bondage  appeared  almost  a  deliverance. 
Toward  evening  a  light  was  descried  gleaming  along  the  waste,  indicating 
that  they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  band  of  these  marauders.  Having 
waited  till  morning  they  approached  the  camp,  and  prostrated  themselves  in 
a  suppliant  attitude.  The  Arabs  uttered  a  furious  yell,  and  immediately  en- 
gaged in  a  violent  contest  for  the  living  booty  thus  unexpectedly  presented. 
This  dispute  ended  in  a  division  of  the  sailors  among  the  barbarians,  by  whom 
the  captives  were  hurried  in  different  directions  into  the  interior  of  the  wilder- 
ness. The  sufferings  of  Riley  were  so  extreme  as  made  him  almost  regret 
the  life  which  he  had  saved,  till  he  met  Sidi  Hamet,  a  respectable  caravan- 
merchant,  who,  in  bargaining*  for  his  person,  showed  much  sympathy  for  his 
situation,  and  undertook  to  conduct  him  to  Mogadore,  provided  he  were  made 
sure  of  a  good  ransom.  The  American  soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
two  blankets,  a  cotton  robe,  and  a  bundle  of  ostrich  feathers  paid  as  the  price 
of  his  liberty.  He  prevailed  on  the  Mussulman,  also,  to  purchase  his  com- 
panions ;  after  which  they  set  out  together  to  cross  the  Desert  with  their 
master  and  deliverer.  They  had  a  very  painful  journey  to  perform,  riding 
with  the  utmost  rapidity  on  the  naked  backs  of  camels,  over  hills  of  loose 
sand,  while  the  air  was  filled  with  tempests  of  drift.  Food  and  water  being 
moreover  very  scanty,  they  were  reduced  almost  to  the  condition  of  skeletons, 
and  Riley  declares  that  he  did  not  ultimately  weigh  above  ninety  pounds. 
His  mind  also  was  oppressed  with  much  anxiety,  as  Sidi  Hamet,  with  all  his 
humanity,  gave  notice  from  time  to  time,  that,  should  his  expectations  as  to 
the  ransom  fail,  he  would  cut  all  their  throats.  Having  procured,  therefore, 
a  reed  and  some  black  liquid,  Riley  wrote  a  pathetic  representation  of  his 
sufferings,  addressed  generally  to  the  consuls  or  to  any  Christians  who  might 
happen  to  be  resident  at  Mogadore.  After  eight  days  of  dreadful  suspense, 
a  letter  arrived.  His  emotion  was  too  great  to  allow  him  to  read  it ;  but  one 
of  his  companions  found  it  to  be  from  Mr.  Willshire,  the  English  consul,  ex- 
pressed in  the  most  sympathizing  terms,  and  with  an  assurance  that  the  ran- 
som would  be  provided,  This  was  faithfully  performed  ;  and  a  hospitable 
reception   at  Mogadore  soon  restored  Riley  to   health  and    to   his    formei 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  339 

dimensions.     The  narrative  which  Riley  published  on  his  return  to  America, 
added,  however,  nothing  to  the  knowledge  of  African  geography. 

In  1816,  the  British  government,  possessed  with  the  idea  that  the  Congo 
was  the  outlet  of  the  Niger,  fitted  out  two  expeditions,  one  of  which,  under 
Captain  Tuckey,  was  to  ascend  the  Congo  in  vessels  ;  the  other,  under  Ma- 
jor Peddie,  was  to  penetrate  the  interior  by  Park's  route,  and,  embarking  on 
the  Niger,  to  sail  down  it  so  as  to  meet  Captain  Tuckey,  which  would  of 
course  happen,  if  the  Congo  and  the  Niger  were  identical.  Both  parties 
were  brought  to  a  halt ;  the  expedition  up  the  Congo  by  cataracts,  which 
prevented  farther  navigation,  and  the  land  expedition  by  the  hostility  of  the 
natives  ;  and  the  only  result  of  consequence,  was  to  explode  the  hypothesis 
that  the  Congo  and  the  Niger  were  the  same. 

About  the  year  1819,  attention  was  drawn  to  the  possibility  of  penetrating 
into  Central  Africa  by  a  route  not  yet  tried — namely,  from  Tripoli,  through 
the  Great  Desert.  Accordingly,  in  that  year,  Mr.  Ritchie  and  Lieut.  Lyon, 
began  the  journey  from  Fezzan  across  the  Desert.  They  reached  Mourzouk 
in  Fezzan ;  but  Mr.  Ritchie  dying  there  of  bilious  fever,  the  expedition  was 
abandoned. 

Records,  more  or  less  extensive,  were  preserved  of  all  these  expeditions,  in 
which  so  many  gallant  and  daring  men  lost  their  lives  ;  but  the  termination 
of  the  Niger,  the  great  and  leading  mystery  of  the  African  continent,  re- 
mained as  much  in  the  dark  as  ever.  The  difficulties,  dangers,  and  deaths, 
however,  which  had  so  plentifully  attended  all  attempts  to  rend  away  the 
vail,  only  stimulated  the  spirit  of  enlightened  enterprise  to  fresh  and  increased 
exertions. 

The  bashaw  of  Tripoli,  who  had  lent  his  countenance  to  the  late  expedi- 
tion, and  whose  influence  extends  far  into  the  center  of  the  African  continent, 
continued  to  give  such  assurances  of  his  aid  and  protection  to  any  mission 
that  might  be  resolved  upon,  that  the  British  government  made  an  attempt 
by  the  desert  once  more.  The  new  adventurers  were  Major  Denham,  Cap- 
tain Clapperton,  and  Dr.  Oudney,  with  one  or  two  companions.  In  April 
1822,  the  travelers  reached  Mourzouk,  after  a  long  and  toilsome  journey, 
nearly  straight  south,  from  Tripoli.  The  sultan  of  Fezzan,  though  a  tribu- 
tary of  Tripoli,  showed  himself  inimical  to  the  progress  of  the  party,  and  ac- 
tually ordered  them  to  remain  at  Mourzouk  until  he  went  to  Tripoli  and  re- 
turned again.  Seeing  no  alternative,  Major  Denham  retraced  his  steps  to 
Tripoli,  and  made  a  complaint  to  the  bashaw;  but  not  finding  his  remonstrances 
attended  to,  the  English  officer  at  once  took  shipping  for  Britain,  to  make  the 
bashaw's  breach  of  faith  known  at  the  court  of  London.  The  dignitary  of 
Tripoli  was  put  into  dreadful  alarm  by  this  spirited  proceeding,  and  sent  ves- 
sel after  vessel  to  pacify  and  recall  the  Major.  By  one  of  these  that  officer 
was  found  performing  quarantine  at  Marseilles,  and  was  prevailed  on  to  re 
turn,  on  the  faith  of  the  bashaw's  firm  assurances  that  guides  and  every 
other  help  were  now  at  the  command  of  the  mission.  Major  Denham  found 
this  to  be  true.  A  caravan  belonging  to  a  great  native  Arab  merchant, 
named  Boo  Khaloom,  was  on  the  point  of  starting  for  Soudan  on  the  Niger, 
and  with  this  band  the  travelers  were  to  cross  the  Desert  in  company. 


340  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

This  trader,  who  was  now  to  be  a  guide  to  the  English  into  the  immense 
regions  of  the  south,  was  a  personage  of  a  very  different  character  from  what 
we  in  this  country  can  form  any  idea  of.  The  African  caravan-merchant  has 
nothing  in  common  with  that  respectable  class  of  men  who,  seated  in  v,ount- 
ing-houses  at  London  or  Amsterdam,  direct  the  movement  of  their  ships  over 
the  ocean,  and  count  the  silent  accumulation  of  their  profits.  He,  on  the  con- 
trary, must  accompany  his  merchandise  from  one  extremity  to  the  other  of  a 
great  continent,  and  across  its  immense  deserts,  the  scene  of  much  suffering, 
and  frequently  of  death  itself.  Nor  is  it  from  a  parched  wilderness  and  a 
burning  climate  that  he  has  most  to  apprehend.  His  path  is  everywhere 
beset  by  bands  whose  trade  is  plunder,  and  who  find  amusement  in  assassi- 
nation. He  must  therefore  have  his  property  guarded  by  armed  men,  ready 
to  defend  with  their  blood  what  his  money  has  purchased.  These  followers, 
being  in  continual  service,  and  exposed  to  frequent  fighting,  become  practiced 
soldiers,  and  are  more  than  a  match  for  the  roving  barbarians  who  infest  the 
Sahara.  Even  the  greatest  princes  view  these  merchant-chiefs  with  fear  and 
jealousy;  and  though  they  contrive  to  draw  considerable  advantage  from 
their  trade,  scarcely  consider  the  kingdom  as  their  own  while  their  troops  are 
within  its  boundaries.  The  merchants,  unhappily,  do  not  confine  themselves 
to  self-defense ;  but,  seeing  robbery  practiced  on  every  side,  against  them- 
selves, begin  to  retaliate,  and  soon  find  it  cheaper,  and,  according  to  African 
ideas,  not  less  honorable,  to  replenish  their  stores  by  plunder  than  by  pur- 
chase. Slaves,  the  staple  of  their  trade,  are  generally  obtained  by  the  most 
atrocious  violence,  in  expeditions  called  ghrazzies  or  felateas,  undertaken  solely 
for  that  guilty  purpose  ;  but,  by  engaging  in  such  enterprises  themselves,  the 
merchants  enjoy  the  benefit,  since  they  reckon  it  such,  of  paying  in  blood 
instead  of  money.  Provided  they  can  escape  the  dangers  and  casualties  to 
which  they  are  exposed,  their  profits  are  immense,  the  value  of  merchandise 
being  somewhat  more  than  tripled  by  its  conveyance  across  the  Desert.  Thus 
a  few  successful  journeys  enable  a  man  to  acquire  a  fortune  almost  princely, 
and  a  high  degree  of  influence  in  the  Barbary  States.  In  short,  the  mer- 
chant, the  warrior,  the  prince,  the  thief,  are  united  in  this  extraordinary  cha- 
racter ;  and  he  is  prepared,  according  to  circumstances,  to  act  in  one  or  in  all 
of  these  capacities.  Yet  Boo  Khalloom  might  be  reckoned  a  good  specimen 
of  this  evil  race.  He  possessed  an  enlarged  and  liberal  mind,  and  was  hon- 
orable, and  even  humane,  so  far  as  a  slave-merchant  could  retain  these  quali- 
ties ;  he  was  dragged,  too,  with  reluctance,  into  the  most  odious  parts  of  his 
vocation, — while  at  home  his  generosity  was  such  as  to  make  him  almost 
idolized. 

The  expedition,  beside  the  English,  contained  a  retinue  of  above  two  hun- 
dred -Arabs,  ranged  in  tens  and  twenties,  under  different  chiefs.  These  bar- 
barians enlivened  the  route  by  their  traditionary  tales,  their  songs,  their 
extemporary  poems,  in  which  all  the  incidents  of  the  journey  itself  were  nar- 
rated ;  in  short,  by  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  wit  and  vivacity.  Their  pride, 
their  revenge,  their  robberies,  did  not  come  into  view  in  their  intercourse  with 
the  English,  who,  being  received  into  their  camp,  having  eaten  of  their  bread 
and  salt,  and  being  bound  in  the  cord  of  friendship,  were  entitled  to  all  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  341 

rights  of  hospitality,  and  would  have  been  protected  even  at  the  hazaid  of 
life. 

They  were  soon  in  the  heart  of  the  Desert,  where  they  spent  whole  days 
without  seeing  a  living  thing,  even  a  bird  or  an  insect,  that  did  not  belong  to 
the  caravan  itself.  After  painful  marches  under  the  direct  action  of  the  solar 
rays,  they  were  delighted  by  the  stillness  and  beauty  of  the  night.  The 
moon  and  stars  shone  with  peculiar  brilliancy  ;  cool  breezes  succeeded  to  the 
burning  heat  of  the  day  ;  and  on  removing  a  few  inches  of  the  loose  hot  soil, 
a  soft  and  refreshing  bed  was  obtained.  Even  the  ripple  of  the  blowing 
sand  sounded  like  a  gentle  and  murmuring  stream.  Every  noise  was  rendered 
doubly  impressive  by  the  deep  stillness,  as  well  as  by  an  echo  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  surrounding  waste.  The  road  derived  a  very  peculiar  aspect  from 
the  quantity  of  salt  with  which  the  soil  was  impregnated  ;  the  clods  were 
often  cracked  so  as  to  resemble  a  plowed  field  ;  and  from  the  sides  of  cavi- 
ties were  hanging  beautiful  crystals  of  that  mineral  like  the  finest  frost-work. 
Sometimes  the  ground  for  several  miles  was  glazed  over,  resembling  a  sheet 
of  ice  ;  but  though  the  surface  was  very  hard,  the  interior  was  brittle,  and 
the  salt  fell  away  in  flakes. 

The  travelers  had  not*  proceeded  far,  when  the  melancholy  aspect  of  the 
Desert  was  heightened  by  a  succession  of  objects  which  could  not  be  viewed 
without  the  deepest  horror.  The  ground  was  strewed  with  the  skeletons  of 
former  travelers,  who  had  perished  in  the  attempt  to  cross  this  extensive  wild- 
erness. These  at  first  appeared  singly,  but  afterward  increased  till  they 
amounted  to  fifty  or  sixty  in  a  day.  At  Meshroo  a  hundred  were  seen 
together ;  and  near  the  wells  at  El  Hammar  they  were  found  lying  in  count- 
less multitudes.  One  forenoon,  as  Major  Denham  was  dozing  on  horseback, 
he  was  awakened  by  the  sound  of  something  crashing  under  his  horse's  feet, 
and  on  looking  down,  saw  the  animal  trampling  on  two  perfect  human  skele- 
tons. A  movement  of  one  of  the  feet  had  separated  the  skull  from  the 
trunk,  and  driven  it  forward  like  a  ball.  In  some  of  these  remains  portions 
of  the  flesh  and  hair  were  left,  and  even  the  features  were  still  distinguishable. 
Two  female  skeletons  lay  closely  twined  together,  having  evidently  been  faith- 
ful friends,  who  had  died  in  each  other's  arms.  The  Arabs  gave  little  proof 
of  their  boasted  sensibility,  in  the  utter  indifference  with  which  they  viewed 
these  dismal  objects,  driving  about  the  limbs  with  their  firelocks,  passing 
coarse  jests  upon  the  dead,  and  deriding  the  sympathy  manifested  by  their 
English  companions.  They  told  them  these  were  only  blacks,  "  damn  their 
fathers," — the  barbarous  prejudice  arising  from  difference  of  religion  and  line- 
age having  thus  extinguished  in  their  breasts  every  touch  of  human  sympathy. 

For  fourteen  days,  hills  of  sand,  and  plains  of  sand,  constituted  the  only 
objects  in  sight  of  the  travelers.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  they  again  beheld 
symptoms  of  herbage,  being  now  on  the  northern  borders  of  the  kingdom  of 
Bornou.  Shortly  afterward,  on  reaching  a  town  called  Lari,  the  British  tra- 
velers beheld  a  sight  which  made  up  for  all  they  had  undergone.  This  was 
the  great  inland  sea  of  Africa,  Lake  Tschad,  the  existence  of  which  had  been 
so  often  canvassed,  and  which  now  lay  before  them"  glowing  with  the  golden 
rays  of  the  sun." 


342  ADVENTURES  IN   AFRICA. 

Lake  Tschad,  one  of  the  most  interesting  points  of  central  African  scenery, 
is  a  vast  triangular  sheet  of  water,  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  long 
from  east  to  west,  and  above  one  hundred  miles  in  extent  at  its  greatest 
breadth.  It  lies  between  14  and  17  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  12 
and  15  degrees  of  east  longitude.  Two  large  streams  flow  into  it,  the 
one,  called  the  Yeon,  from  the  west,  and  the  other,  the  Shary  or  the  Tshary, 
from  the  south.  Lake  Tschad  is  situated  about  five  hundred  miles  to  the 
east  of  the  Niger,  and  the  country  lying  between  them  bears  the  general 
name  of  the  Soudan,  though  particular  appellations  are  given  to  provinces, 
such  as  Houssa,  and  others.  Bornou  is  the  district  lying  immediately  to  the 
west  of  the  lake.  Major  Denham  spent  a  considerable  time  here.  He  found 
the  kingdom  of  Bornou  in  a  very  peculiar  position  as  to  government.  The 
people  are  negroes,  and  had  once  been  subjugated  by  the  Fellatas,  a  race 
combining  negro  with  Moorish  descent,  and  the  conquerors  and  oppressors  of 
many  kingdoms  of  the  interior.  But  a  Bornouese  negro,  of  humble  birth  and 
powerful  talents,  had  aroused  his  countrymen,  and  driven  out  the  Fellatas. 
This  individual  was  found  by  Major  Denham  to  be  in  possession  of  the  whole 
power  of  Bornou,  though  out  of  respect  to  the  prejudices  of  the  people,  the 
old  Fellata  prince  was  still  permitted  to  hold  a  nominal  throne,  and  the 
empty  title  of  sultan.  The  real  ruler  contented  himself  with  the  title  of 
sheikh.  He  is  described  by  Denham  as  being  extremely  intelligent,  and  as 
holding  the  reins  of  power  with  great  firmness  and  sagacity.  The  Bornouese 
are  disciples  of  Mahomet,  and  may  be  called  well  civilized,  in  comparison 
with  other  inland  nations.  Their  country  supplies  them  abundantly  with 
food,  and  they  carry  on  manufactures  to  a  considerable  extent  in  cotton.  Such 
is  the  enlightened  character  of  the  present  sheikh,  that,  if  his  hands  were 
once  clear  of  the  troubles  caused  by  turbulent  neighbors,  and  which  compel 
him  to  keep  up  a  large  force,  he  would  speedily,  Major  Denham  thinks,  make 
Bornou  one  of  the  first  kingdoms  of  Africa. 

Boo  Khalloom  having  dispatched  his  affairs  in  Bornou,  was  persuaded  by 
his  followers  to  enter  upon  an  expedition  into  the  mountains  of  Mandara,  in 
the  south,  to  attack  a  village  of  the  Kerdies,  or  unbelievers,  and  carry  off 
the  people  as  slaves  to  Fezzan.  Major  Denham  allowed  his  zeal  for  discov- 
ry  to  overcome  other  considerations,  and  contrived  to  be  one  of  the  party. 
They  were  accompanied  by  Barca  Gana,  the  principal  Bornou  general,  a  ne- 
gro of  huge  strength  and  great  courage,  along  with  other  warriors,  and  a 
large  body  of  Bornou  cavalry.  These  last  are  a  fine  military  body  in  point 
of  external  appearance.  Their  persons  are  covered  with  iron  plate  and  mail, 
and  they  manage  with  surprising  dexterity,  their  little  active  steeds,  which 
are  also  supplied  with  defensive  armor.  They  have  one  fault  only,  but  that 
a  serious  one, — they  cannot  stand  the  shock  of  an  enemy.  While  the  con- 
test continues  doubtful,  they  hover  round  as  spectators,  ready,  should  the 
tide  turn  against  them,  to  spur  on  their  coursers  to  a  rapid  flight ;  but  if  they 
see  their  friends  victorious,  and  the  e,nemy  turning  their  backs,  they  come 
forward  and  display  no  small  vigor  in  pursuit  and  plunder. 

The  road  that  led  to  Mandara  formed  a  continued  ascent  through  a  fertile 
country  which  contained  some  populous  towns.     The  path  being  quite  over* 


ADVENTURES  IN   AFRICA.  343 

grown  with  thick  and  prickly  underwood,  twelve  pioneers  went  forward  with 
long  poles  opening  a  track,  pushing  back  the  branches,  and  giving  warning 
to  beware  of  holes.  These  operations  they  accompanied  with  loud  praises 
of  Barca  Gana,  calling  out, — "Who  is  in  battle  like  the  rolling  of  thunder  ? 
Barca  Gana.  In  battle,  who  spreads  terror  around  him  like  the  buffalo,  in 
his  rage  ?     Barca  Gana." 

The  expedition,  after  passing  through  a  beautiful  plain,  began  to  penetrate 
the  mighty  chain  of  mountains  which  form  the  southern  border  of  the  king- 
dom. Alpine  heights,  rising  around  them  in  rugged  magnificence  and  gigantic 
grandeur,  presented  scenery  which  our  traveler  had  never  seen  surpassed. 
The  passes  of  Hairey  and  of  Horza,  amid  a  superb  amphitheater  of  hills, 
closely  shut  in  by  overhanging  cliffs,  more  than  two  thousand  feet  high,  were 
truly  striking.  Here,  for  the  first  time  in  Africa,  did  nature  appear  to  the 
English  to  revel  in  the  production  of  vegetable  life.  The  trees  were  covered 
with  luxuriant  and  bright  green  foliage  ;  and  their  trunks  were  hidden  by  a 
crowd  of  parasitical  plants,  whose  aromatic  blossoms  perfumed  the  air.  There 
was  also  an  abundance  of  animal  life  of  a  less  agreeable  description  ;  three 
scorpions  were  killed  in  the  tent ;  and  a  fierce  but  beautiful  panther,  more 
than  eight  feet  long,  just  as  he  had  gorged  himself  by  sucking  the  blood  of  a 
newly-killed  negro,  was  attacked  and  speared.  The  sultan  of  Fezzan  and 
Barca  Gana  were  attended  by  a  considerable  body  of  Bornou  and  Mandara 
cavalry,  whose  brilliant  armor,  martial  aspect,  and  skillful  horsemanship  gave 
confidence  to  the  European  officer,  who  had  not  yet  seen  them  put  to  the 
proof. 

It  was  the  third  day  when  the  expedition  came  in  view  of  the  Fellata  town 
of  Dirkulla.  The  Arabs,  supported  by  Barca  Gana  and  about  a  hundred 
spearmen,  marched  instantly  to  the  attack,  and  carried  first  that  place,  and 
then  a  smaller  town  beyond  it,  killing  all  who  had  not  time  to  escape.  The 
enemy,  however,  then  intrenched  themselves  in  a  third  and  stronger  position, 
called  Musfeia,  inclosed  by  high  hills,  and  fortified  in  front  by  numerous 
swamps  and  palisades.  This  was  likewise  attacked,  and  all  its  defenses 
forced.  The  guns  of  the  Arabs  spread  terror,  while  Barca  Gana  threw  eight 
spears  with  his  own  hand,  every  one  of  which  took  effect.  It  was  thought, 
that  had  the  two  bodies  of  cavalry  made  even  a  show  of  advancing,  the  vic- 
tory would  have  been  at  once  decided  ;  but  Major  Denham  was  much  sur- 
prised to  see  those  puissant  warriors  keeping  carefully  under  cover  behind  a 
hill  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream,  where  not  an  arrow  could  reach  them. 
The  Fellatas,  seeing  that  their  antagonists  were  only  a  handful,  rallied  on  the 
tops  of  the  hills,  were  joined  by  new  troops,  and  turned  round.  Their  women 
behind,  cheering  them  on,  continually  supplied  fresh  arrows,  and  rolled  down 
fragments  of  rock  on  the  assailants.  These  arrows  were  fatal  ;  they  were 
tipped  with  poison,  and  wherever  they  pierced,  the  body  in  a  few  hours  be- 
came black,  blood  gushed  from  every  orifice,  and  the  victim  expired  in 
agony.  The  condition  of  the  Arabs  soon  became  alarming  ;  scarcely  a  man 
was  left  unhurt,  and  their  horses  were  dying  under  them.  Boo  Khalloom 
and  his  charger  were  both  wounded  with  poisoned  arrows.  As  soon  as  the 
Fellatas  saw  the  Arabs  waver,  they  dashed  in  with  their  horse  ;  at  sight  of 


344  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

which  all  the  heroic  squadrons  of  Bornou  and  Mandara  put  spurs  to  their 
steeds,  the  sultan  at  their  head,  and  the  whole  became  one  mass  of  confused 
and  tumultuous  flight.  Major  Denham  saw  too  late  the  peril  into  which  he 
had  wantonly  plunged.  His  horse,  pierced  to  the  shoulder-bone,  could 
scarcely  support  his  weight ;  but  the  cries  of  the  pursuing  Fellatas  still  urged 
him  forward.  At  last  the  animal  fell  twice,  and  the  second  time  threw  him 
against  a  tree,  then,  frightened  by  the  noise  behind,  started  up  and  ran  off. 
The  Fellatas  were  instantly  up,  when  four  of  his  companions  were  stabbed 
beside  him,  uttering  the  most  frightful  cries.  He  himself  was  fully  prepared 
for  the  same  fate  ;  but  happily  his  clothes  formed  a  valuable  booty,  through 
which  the  savages  were  loath  to  run  their  spears.  After  inflicting  some 
slight  wounds,  therefore,  they  stripped  him  to  the  skin,  and  forthwith  began 
to  quarrel  about  the  plunder.  While  they  were  thus  busied,  he  contrived 
to  slip  away,  and  though  hotly  pursued,  and  nearly  overtaken,  succeeded  in 
reaching  a  mountain-stream  gliding  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  and  precipitous 
ravine.  Here  he  had  snatched  the  young  branches  issuing  from  the  stump 
of  a  large  overhanging  tree,  in  order  to  let  himself  down  into  the  water, 
when,  beneath  his  hand,  a  large  liffa,  the  most  dangerous  serpent  in  this 
country,  rose  from  its  coil,  as  in  the  very  act  of  darting  upon  him.  Struck 
with  horror,  Major  Denham  lost  all  recollection,  and  fell  headlong  into  the 
water  ;  but  the  shock  revived  him,  and,  with  three  strokes  of  his  arm,  he 
reached  the  opposite  bank,  and  felt  himself,  for  the  moment,  in  safety.  Run- 
ning forward,  he  was  delighted  to  see  his  friends  Barca  Gana  and  Boo 
Khalloom  ;  but  amid  the  cheers  with  which  they  were  endeavoring  to  rally 
their  troops,  and  the  cries  of  those  who  were  falling  under  the  Fellata  spears, 
he  could  not  for  some  time  make  himself  heard.  Then  Maramy,  a  negro  ap- 
pointed to  attend  on  him,  rode  up  a£sd  took  him  on  his  own  horse.  Boo  Khal- 
loom ordered  a  burnouse  to  be  thrown  over  him, — very  seasonably,  for  the 
burning  sun  had  begun  to  blister  his  naked  body.  Suddenly,  however, 
Maramy  called  out,  "  See,  see  !  Boo  Khalloom  is  dead  !"  and  that  spirited 
chief,  overpowered  by  the  wound  of  a  poisoned  arrow,  dropped  from  his 
horse,  and  spoke  no  more. 

The  Arabs  had  lost  forty-five  of  their  number,  beside  their  chief;  the  rest 
were  in  a  miserable  plight,  most  of  them  wounded,  some  mortally,  and  all 
having  lost  their  camels  and  the  rest  of  their  property.  Deep  sorrow  was 
afterward  felt  in  Fezzan  when  they  arrived  in  this  deplorable  condition  and 
reported  the  fall  of  their  chief,  who  was  there  almost  idolized.  A  national 
song  was  composed  on  the  occasion,  which  the  following  extract  will  show  to 
be  marked  by  great  depth  of  feeling,  and  not  altogether  devoid  of  poetical 
beauty  : — 

"  Oh  !  trust  not  to  the  gun  and  the  sword  !  The  spear  of  the  unbeliever 
prevails  ! 

"  Boo  Khalloom,  the  good  and  the  brave,  has  fallen  !  Who  shall  now  be 
safe  ?  Even,  as  the  moon  among  the  little  stars,  so  was  Boo  Khalloom  among 
men  !  Where  shall  Fezzan  now  look  for  her  protector  ?  Men  hang  then  heaaa 
in  sorrow,  while  women  wring  their  hands,  rending  the  air  with  their  crie*  i 
As  a  shepherd  is  to  his  flock,  so  was  Boo  Khalloom  to  Fezzan  S 


ADVENTURES  IN   AFRICA.  345 

"  Give  him  songs  !  Give  him  music  !  What  words  can  equal  his  praise  ? 
His  heart  was  as  large  as  the  desert!  His  coffers  were  like  the  rich  over- 
flowings from  the  udder  of  the  she-camel,  comforting  and  nourishing  those 
around  him  1 

"  Even  as  the  flowers  without  rain  perish  in  the  fields,  so  will  the  Fezzan- 
ers  droop  ;  for  Boo  Khalloom  returns  no  more  ! 

"  His  body  lies  in  the  land  of  the  heathen  I  The  poisoned  arrow  of  the 
unbeliever  prevails  ! 

"  Oh  !  trust  not  to  the  gun  and  the  sword  !  The  spear  of  the  heathen 
conquers  !  Boo  Khalloom,  the  good  and  the  brave,  has  fallen  !  Who  shall 
now  be  safe  ?" 

Major  Denham,  while  in  this  region,  found  an  opportunity  of  traveling 
round  nearly  the  whole  of  Lake  Tschad,  and  thus  satisfied  himself  that  the 
waters  of  the  Niger  did  not  enter  this  inland  pool.  After  eighteen  months' 
stay  in  Bornou,  Denham  was  joined  by  Captain  Clapperton,  who  had  sepa- 
rated from  him  in  order  to  explore  the  country  of  Soudan — an  excursion  on 
which  Dr.  Oudney  unfortunately  perished,  from  fatigue,  and  the  diseases  in- 
cidental to  the  climate.  Clapperton  was  well  received  at  Soccatoo,  the  capi- 
ital  of  Houssa,  and  the  seat  of  Bello,  the  great  Soudanite  monarch,  and  the 
head  of  the  Fellata  nation.  Like  the  sheikh  of  Bornou,  Sultan  Bello  was 
found  to  be  an  able  and  intelligent  man.  His  capital,  Soccatoo,  situated  on  a 
tributary  of  the  Niger,  and  distant  four  days'  journey  from  that  river,  is  one 
of  the  largest  cities  of  the  interior,  containing,  to  appearance,  above  forty 
thousand  inhabitants.  The  city  is  laid  out  in  regular  streets,  and  is  surroun- 
ded, like  most  African  towns,  with  clay  walls.  The  houses  are  well-built 
cottages,  generally  of  clay,  and  the  mosques,  as  well  as  parts  of  the  sultan's 
palace,  are  ornamented  with  painted  wooden  pillars,  in  a  very  pretty  style  of 
architecture. 

Denham  and  Clapperton  do  not  inform  us  very  minutely  of  the  differences 
in  personal  appearance  between  the  negroes  of  Bornou  and  the  Fellatas  of 
Houssa.  It  would  appear,  however,  that  many  of  the  Fellatas  approach  to 
a  copper  color,  and  have  extremely  fine,  regular  features,  like  the  Arabs. 
Others  of  the  race  resemble  more  nearly  the  pure  negroes  in  features  and 
complexion.  The  Fellatas  commonly  clothe  every  part  of  their  bodies, 
wearing  turbans,  shirts,  and  trowsers,  and  sandals.  The  chief  commercial 
city  of  Houssa  is  Kano,  a  place  nearly  as  large  as  Soccatoo,  and  a  little 
farther  eastward.  Kano  is  unquestionably  the  same  city  as  Ghana,  men- 
tioned six  hundred  years  ago  by  the  old  Moorish  writer  Edrisi  as  the  greatest 
trading  town  of  Houssa.  Cattle,  vegetables,  dyes,  the  cotton  fabrics  of  the 
country,  and  slaves,  are  the  principal  objects  of  traffic  in  the  market-place  of 
Kano,  which  is  formed  of  little  sheds  or  stalls  of  bamboo,  and  is  superin- 
tended by  a  regular  sheikh  or  judge.  Kowries  constitute  the  current 
coinage. 

Upon  the  whole,  the  two  countries  of  Houssa  and  Bornou  must  be  regarded 
as  far  above  any  kingdoms  of  the  African  interior  yet  visited  by  Europeans, 
in  point  of  power  and  civilization.  The  Fellata  sultan,  Bello,  was  extremely 
anxious  that  an  English  consul  should  be  sent  to  Soccatoo,  and  that  a  trade 


346  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

should  be  opened  up  with  the  English.  Before  the  travelers  left  either  Houssa 
or  Bornou,  however,  they  found  the  rulers  of  those  places  to  cool  in  their 
desire  for  British  intercourse.  This  arose,  without  doubt,  from  the  intrigues 
of  the  Arabs,  who  were  afraid  that  the  traffic  through  the  desert  from  the 
Mediterranean  might  be  superseded  by  the  commerce  of  the  British  from  the 
Atlantic  or  western  coast.  The  Arabs,  therefore,  artfully  placed  before  the 
minds  of  the  African  princes  the  consequences  which  had  resulted  to  India 
and  other  countries  from  a  connection  with  Britain. 

The  safe  return  of  two  principal  members  of  this  expedition,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  three  years,  and  the  interesting  nature  of  the  observations  made  by 
them,  was  cheering  and  encouraging  to  the  British  authorities,  and  to  all  who 
took  an  interest  in  African  discovery.  But  the  question  of  the  Niger's  out- 
let, through  which  alone,  it  was  obvious,  commercial  intercourse  could  be 
securely  and  effectually  established  with  the  interior,  remained  yet  in  doubt, 
though  the  late  travelers  were  fully  convinced  that  the  river  flowed  into  the 
Atlantic  somewhere  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea.  Ere  he  had  rested  many  months 
at  home,  Clapperton,  one  of  the  bravest  of  the  many  brave  men  who  had 
risked  their  lives  on  the  same  dangerous  adventure,  was  again  on  his  way  to 
Africa,  at  the  head  of  an  exploratory  party.  His  companions  were  Dr.  Mor- 
rison and  Captain  Pearce,  beside  a  faithful  servant  of  Clapperton,  Richard 
Lander.  It  was  resolved  on  this  occasion  to  enter  the  interior  from  Badagry, 
a  district  on  the  northern  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  from  which  Clapper- 
ton believed  the  Niger  might  be  soonest  reached. 

In  the  course  of  their  arduous  journey,  all  of  the  party  died  except  Clap- 
perton and  his  servant,  Lander.  They  persevered,  nevertheless,  passing 
through  many  populous  negro  towns  situated  between  the  coast  and  the 
Niger.  In  April,  1826,  they  reached  Boussa,  on  the  Niger,  the  place  where 
Park  had  been  killed  ;  they  saw  the  spot  where  he  had  met  his  death,  and 
heard  that  some  relics  of  him  were  still  preserved,  but  could  not  procure  a 
sight  of  them.  After  staying  sometime  at  Boussa,  Clapperton  crossed  the 
Niger  and  paid  another  visit  to  the  territories  of  his  former  acquaintance, 
Sultan  Bello,  who,  however,  seemed  less  friendly  to  him,  than  on  the  previous 
occasion,  apparently  suspecting  the  motives  which  actuated  the  British  in 
their  efforts  to  procure  information  respecting  a  part  of  the  world  so  remote 
from  their  own.  Wearied  out  by  his  toils,  Clapperton  became  ill  at  Soccatoo 
and  died  there  on  the  13th  of  April,  1827,  in  the  arms  of  Richard  Lander, 
who,  with  great  difficulty,  made  his  way  alone  back  to  the  west,  and  from 
thence  to  England,  carrying  with  him  his  own  journal  and  Clapperton's 
papers. 

Meanwhile,  the  British  government  were  making  another  attempt  from  the 
Mediterranean  to  open  up  the  interior  of  Africa — for  such  was  the  ultimate 
and  highest  object  to  be  attained  through  these  expeditions.  About  the  time 
that  Clapperton  set  out  on  his  second  journey,  Major  Laing,  an  able  officer, 
who  had  already  traveled  on  the  African  coasts,  entered  the  Desert  by  way 
of  Tripoli,  under  the  protection  of  a  personage  who  had  resided  twenty-two 
years  at  Timbuctoo.  When  in  the  middle  of  the  Desert,  the  party  was  at- 
tacked by  a  band  of  wild  Tuaricks,  and  Major  Laing  was  left  for  dead,  with 


ADVENTURKb  IN   AFRICA.  347 

twenty-four  dreadful  wounds  on  his  person.  He  recovered,  however,  by  the 
care  of  his  surviving  companions,  although  numerous  portions  of  bone  had 
to  be  extracted  from  his  head  and  temples  !  When  able  to  do  so,  he  pur- 
sued his  journey,  and  on  the  1 8th  of  August,  reached  the  famous  city  of 
Timbuctoo.  Several  letters  were  received  from  him,  dated  at  this  place, 
which  he  described  as  having  disappointed  him  in  point  of  extent,  being  only 
about  four  miles  in  circuit,  but  that  he  had  found  its  records  copious  and  in- 
teresting. Major  Laing  never  had  the  opportunity,  unhappily,  of  making 
these  valuable  discoveries  known,  being  murdered  three  days  after  leaving 
Timbuctoo,  by  a  wretch  who  had  undertaken  to  guide  him  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Senegal  or  its  neighborhood.  What  became  of  the  ill-fated  traveler's 
papers  is  not  yet  known. 

The  next  light  thrown  upon  African  geography  came  from  a  source  some- 
what different  from  those  described.  Rene  Caillie\  a  Frenchman  of  humble 
origin,  being  early  animated  by  a  love  of  enterprise,  left  his  country  at  the 
age  of  sixteen,  and  arrived  at  Senegal  in  the  year  1816.  Having  heard 
soon  afterward  of  Major  Gray's  expedition,  he  contrived,  after  many  diffi- 
culties, to  join  the  party  in  Bondou,  and  returned  with  them  to  the  coast. 
He  afterward  came  to  France,  but  went  back  to  Africa  in  1824,  always  ani- 
mated with  the  hope  of  distinguishing  himself  on  the  field  of  discovery.  A 
prize  offered  by  the  French  Society  of  Geography  stimulated  him  finally  to 
a  successful  exertion.  Assuming  the  character  of  a  Mahommedan  on  a  pil- 
grimage to  Mecca,  he  joined,  on  the  19th  of  April,  1827,  a  small  native  car- 
avan, traveling  from  the  river  Nunez  to  the  interior.  He  soon  after  reached 
the  Joliba  (the  name  which  the  Niger  bears  as  far  down  as  Timbuctoo,)  but 
was  detained  by  illness,  for  five  months,  at  a  place  called  Time.  On  his  re- 
covery, he  passed  onward  to  Jenne  on  the  Niger,  a  city  described  by  him  as 
containing  8000  or  10,000  inhabitants,  and  as  being  a  place  of  considerable 
traffic.  At  Jenne  he  embarked  in  a  loose  native  vessel  of  sixty  tons  burden, 
and  sailed  with  a  party  of  merchants  through  lake  Dibbie  (mentioned  by 
Park,)  and  down  the  Niger,  until,  in  April  1828,  the  vessel  stopped  at  Cabra, 
the  port  of  Timbuctoo.  The  inhabitants  of  Cabra  were  about  1200  in  num- 
ber, and  were  solely  occupied  as  porters,  either  in  unloading  goods,  or  in 
conveying  them  on  the  backs  of  asses  to  Timbuctoo.  That  city  itself  lies 
about  ten  miles  from  the  Niger,  and  is  a  place  of  some  10,000  or  12,000  in- 
habitants. It  is  chiefly  built  of  bricks,  and  is  supported  entirely  by  com- 
merce. The  population  are  partly  negroes  and  partly  Moors,  but  the  king  is 
a  negro,  and  the  government  solely  in  the  hands  of  that  class.  On  the  other 
hand,  though  all  the  people  engage  more  or  less  in  trade,  the  Moors  are  the 
principal  merchants.  The  great  article  of  traffic  is  salt,  which  is  brought 
from  the  mines  in  the  neighboring  Desert  of  Sahara,  and  is  disseminated 
from  Timbuctoo  over  the  whole  of  central  Africa. 

After  leaving  Timbuctoo,  Caillie  made  his  way  across  the  Desert  to  Tan- 
gier, where  he  arrived  in  August,  1828,  and  whence  he  was  forwarded  by 
the  French  consul  to  Europe.  When  his  narrative  was  published,  the  truth 
of  it  was  at  first  doubted,  but  afterward  the  world  became  satisfied  of  his 
veracity,  and  placed  such  inaccuracies  as  his  work  contained,  to  the  account 


348  ADVENTURES   IN    AFRICA. 

of  his  want  of  scientific  knowledge  and  of  scientific  instruments.  Upon  the 
whole,  however,  M.  Caillie  has  contributed  little  to  the  removal  of  those  glar- 
ing blanks  which  have  so  long  defaced  the  map  of  Africa. 

Not  so  the  next  adventurer  to  whom  we  have  to  allude.  This  was  Rich- 
ard Lander,  the  faithful  follower  of  Clapperton.  Lander  made  an  offer  of 
his  services  to  government,  for  the  investigation  of  the  course  and  termina- 
tion of  the  Niger.  The  offer  was  accepted,  and  Lander  embarked  at  Ports- 
mouth on  9th  of  January,  1830,  accompanied  by  his  younger  brother  John, 
who  shared  in  all  the  toils  and  honors  of  the  expedition.  The  Landers  ar- 
rived on  the  19th  of  March  at  Badagry,  and  at  the  end  of  the  month 
started  on  the  same  route  pursued  by  Clappertor  \n  his  journey  to  the  Niger. 
Paskoe,  the  old  guide,  was  again  taken  into  service  by  the  Landers.  After 
an  interesting  journey  through  the  populous  cities  of  Yarriba,  the  travelers 
arrived  at  Boussa,  on  the  Niger,  on  the  17th  of  June.  The  king  of  Boussa 
welcomed  them  with  great  cordiality.  Though  gentle  and  hospitable  this 
prince  was  a  mere  ignorant  savage,  in  comparison  of  the  kings  of  Houssa  and 
Bornou.  At  Boussa,  notwithstanding  that  aversion  always  evinced  by  the 
natives  to  speak  about  Park,  the  Landers  found  an  old  nautical  publication 
belonging  to  that  traveler,  with  a  loose  paper  or  two  between  the  sheets — one 
of  them  an  invitation  card  to  dinner.  The  man  who  possessed  this  book  re- 
garded it  as  his  household  god,  every  written  paper  being  of  magical  import 
in  the  eyes  of  the  natives.  The  tobe,  or  surtout-dress,  of  rich  crimson  dam- 
ask, which  Park  had  worn,  was  also  recovered  at  Boussa  by  the  Landers, 
but  no  distinct  account  was  got  of  the  mode  in  which  these  articles  came 
ino  the  hands  of  their  owners. 

After  making  all  inquiries,  so  as  to  rescue  any  relics  of  Park,  and  even 
ascending  to  Yaourie,  a  city  and  province  a  few  days'  journey  farther  up  the 
Niger,  for  that  purpose,  obtaining  for  their  trouble  a  double-barrelled  gun, 
which  had  belonged  to  the  traveler,  the  Landers  endeavored  to  procure  a 
canoe  that  they  might  sail  down  the  river,  and  solve  the  great  problem  of  its 
course  and  termination.  They  were  assisted  in  the  kindest  manner  by  the 
king  of  Boussa,  who  sent  messengers  down  the  Niger  to  a  large  market-town 
called  Rabba,  in  order  to  pave  the  way  for  the  secure  passage  of  the  travelers, 
On  the  20th  September,  the  travelers  embarked  in  a  canoe  provided  for  them, 
on  the  Niger. 

On  the  7th  of  October  they  arrived  opposite  Rabba,  having  passed  a  num- 
ber of  islands  and  towns  on  the  river,  always  a  magnificent  stream.  The 
ruler  of  Rabba  being  dissatisfied  with  the  presents  made  to  him,  the  travelers 
were  reluctantly  forced  to  give  him  Park's  tobe,  and  they  subsequently  had 
the  misfortune  to  lose  his  gun.  Near  Rabba  the  river  took  a  wide  sweep  to 
the  eastward,  but  it  turned  again  to  the  south.  Egga,  another  famous  mar- 
ket-town on  the  river,  and  Kacunda,  were  afterward  passed,  and  the  mouths 
of  two  large  tributaries,  the  Coodovia  and  the  Tchadda,  were  also  seen. 
Various  other  towns  were  passed  in  succession,  the  largest  of  which  was  Boc- 
qua  and  Attah.  The  Landers  had  now  arrived  at  a  region  where  signs  of 
European  intercourse  w  re  seen,  and  where  the  natives  had  been  tainted  by 
the  demoralizing  consequences  of  the  slave  commerce.     At  a  place  called 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  349 

Kirree  the  travelers  suffered  a  heavy  misfortune.  They  were  attacked  by  a 
number  of  canoes,  seized,  and  their  property  taken  from  them.  Richard's 
journal,  among  other  articles,  was  lost  in  the  river,  though  the  notes  of  his 
brother  were  happily  preserved.  The  travelers  expected  nothing  but  death 
at  this  time  themselves  ;  but  their  lives  were  saved  that  they  might  be  carried 
down  the  river  to  Eboe  town,  where  the  king  of  the  Eboe  people  resided,  and 
by  whose  subjects  the  attack  had  been  made. 

On  their  way  to  Eboe  town  they  passed  a  large  lake  on  the  river,  which 
afterward  divided  itself  into  three  broad  streams,  flowing  at  different  inclina- 
tions to  the  southwest.  From  this,  and  previous  branchings  of  the  stream, 
the  Landers  felt  convinced  that  they  were  close  by  the  termination  of  the 
Niger,  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  ;  and  their  anxiety  to  continue  their  route  was 
proportionable  to  their  pleasure  at  the  near  accomplishment  of  their  task. 
Obie,  the  Eboe  king,  resolved  to  detain  them,  however,  till  a  ransom  was  got 
from  the  English  ;  but  king  Boy,  a  monarch  residing  farther  down  the  river, 
and  who  was  then  in  Eboe  town,  became  bound  for  the  ransom  of  the  Landers, 
and  carried  them  down  Nun  river,  to  Brass  town,  his  father's  capital.  King 
Boy  subsequently  went  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  with  Richard  Lander, 
leaving  John  at  Brass  town.  An  English  merchantman  was  lying  in  the 
Nun,  and  with  hope  in  his  heart,  Richard  Lander  went  on  board  of  her  with 
Boy,  and  explained  his  situation  to  the  commander,  Captain  Lake,  expecting 
to  find  a  countryman's  sympathy  and  aid.  The  wretch  refused  to  expend  a 
penny  on  their  ransom,  though,  if  he  had  possessed  a  spark  of  intelligence, 
he  might  have  been  assured  that  the  British  Government  would  gladly  have 
paid,  ten  times  over,  any  outlay  ma,'.-,  under  such  circumstances.  Richard 
Lander,  with  difficulty,  prevailed  on  Boy  to  go  and  bring  his  brother  John 
to  the  brig,  by  which  time  the  traveler  hoped  that  Lake  would  relent.  The 
brutal  captain,  however,  did  not  relent  ;  and  when  Johr*  Lander  came  to  the 
brig,  he  and  his  brother,  much  against  their  will,  were  forced  to  leave  the 
river  without  satisfying  Boy,  who  had  generously  taken  the  risk  of  recovering 
their  ransom.  It  is  a  consolation  to  think  that  the  British  Government  ulti- 
mately remunerated  Boy  far  beyond  his  expectations.  In  Captain  Lake's 
vessel,  meantime,  the  Landers,  after  much  danger,  crossed  the  bar  of  the 
river  Nun,  and  entered  the  open  sea  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  with  the  deep 
satisfaction  on  their  minds  of  having  thus  attained  the  glory  of  discovering 
the  termination  of  the  Niger  ! 

The  solution  of  the  great  African  mystery  by  the  Landers  was  justly  felt 
by  their  countrymen  as  a  national  triumph.  But  the  matter  when  explained, 
looked  so  simple,  as  in  the  case  of  Columbus  with  the  egg,  that  men  won- 
dered how  they  could  have  been  so  long  in  the  dark  respecting  it.  The 
splitting  of  the  Niger  into  numerous  branches  near  its  close,  some  of  them  a 
hundred  miles  distant  from  others,  was  the  real  cause  of  all  the  difficulty. 
Like  the  Nile,  the  Niger  has  a  large  delta,  and  each  of  its  branches  bore  the 
look  of  independent  streams.  The  delta  of  the  Nile  is  partly  inhabited,  but 
is  extremely  marshy, 

Since  the  completion  of  Park's  great  discovery  by  the  Landers,  two  expe- 
dition* have  been  fitted  out  for  the  navigation  of  the  Niger,  from  its  mouth 


350  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

into  the  interior.  At  first  there  was  a  general  belief  that  now  a  comn  anica- 
tion  had  been  opened  with  Central  Africa,  and  that  by  means  of  the  Niger, 
an  easy  and  speedy  intercourse  could  be  held  with  the  negro  tribes  living 
south  of  the  Great  Desert.  Accordingly,  two  steamers,  one  of  them  entirely 
iron,  were  fitted  out  in  1832,  at  the  expense  of  some  individuals  in  Liverpool, 
anxious  to  commence  the  new  trade.  They  arrived  at  the  delta  of  the  Niger 
in  the  month  of  October,  accompanied  by  a  sailing  vessel,  laden  with  articles 
for  traffic.  Many  of  the  crew  were  carried  off  by  the  pestilential  influence  of 
the  climate  ;  and  the  steamers  did  not  ascend  very  far.  The  Tchadda,  a  tri- 
butary of  the  Niger,  was  explored  for  about  a  hundred  miles  by  one  of  them  ; 
but  its  banks  were  not  found  to  present  much  opportunity  for  commerce,  and 
the  steamer  returned  to  the  Niger.  Richard  Lander,  who  had  given  his  ser- 
vices to  the  expedition,  was  mortally  wounded  in  a  scuffle  with  the  natives, 
while  ascending  the  river  in  a  boat  with  a  supply  of  kowries,  which  he  had 
returned  to  the  sea-coast  to  procure.  He  died  thirteen  days  after,  on  the  2a 
February,  1834  ;  and  in  July  the  vessels  left  the  Niger  on  their  voyage  home, 
the  crew  of  one  having  been  reduced  from  thirty-nine  to  five  and  that  of  the 
other  from  nineteen  to  four.  In  a  commercial  point  of  view  the  expedition 
was  also  a  failure,  the  only  article  of  value  procured,  being  ivory,  and  that 
in  too  small  a  quantity  to  pay  the  expenses. 

A  second  expedition,  consisting  of  three  iron  steamers  commissioned  by 
government,  set  sail  for  the  Niger  in  May,  1841.  The  object  of  the  expedi- 
tion was  to  open  up  such  an  intercourse  with  the  native  princes  on  the  banks 
of  the  Niger  as  might  serve  to  assist  in  suppressing  the  African  slave  trade, 
and  to  plant  the  seeds  of  civilization  in  the  center  of  the  continent.  Beside 
being  amply  manned  and  furnished,  the  vessels  carried  with  them  all  that 
was  necessary  for  establishing  a  little  colony  or  model  farm  on  the  banks  of 
the  Niger,  such  a  scheme  seeming  best  fitted  for  inoculating  the  African  popu- 
lation with  the  habits  which  it  was  desired  to  introduce  among  them.  The 
entire  number  of  individuals  connected  with  the  expedition  was  301,  of  whom 
145  were  Europeans,  and  156  persons  of  color.  The  vessels  commenced  the 
ascent  of  the  Niger  on  the  20th  of  August ;  passed  Aboh,  the  capital  of  the 
Eboe  country,  where  the  commissioners  negotiated  with  Obie,  the  king  or 
chief  of  the  district,  regarding  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade.  Ninety- 
five  miles  farther  up  they  came  to  Iddah,  the  capital  of  the  king  of  Eggarah, 
with  whom  a  treaty  was  also  concluded.  On  the  10th  of  September  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Nio-er  and  the  Tchadda  was  reached  ;  and  here  it  was  deter- 

o 

mined  to  establish  the  model  farm.  Accordingly,  the  part  of  the  crews  and 
cargoes  intended  for  the  purpose  was  disembarked. 

Meanwhile  sickness  had  become  so  prevalent,  and  the  number  of  deaths  so 
great,  that  two  of  the  steamers  were  obliged  to  descend  the  river  with  the 
invalids,  in  order  tc  give  them  the  chances  of  recovery  on  the  coast.  The 
remaining  steamer,  the  Albert,  advanced  as  far  a  Egga,  about  350  miles 
from  the  sea.  Farther  than  this,  however,  the  increasing  illness  of  the  crew 
prevented  it  from  proceeding  ;  and  accordingly,  '^ving  explained  to  the  chief 
of  the  place  the  object  of  the  visit,  the  commaLk*er  turned  back  on  the  5th  of 
October,  and  descended  the  ri»'~*\  there  bein^  hardly  hands  sufficient  left  to 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  351 

manage  the  vessel.  The  Albert  reached  the  sea  on  the  l6r,h  of  October,  the 
other  two  steamers  having  reached  it  on  the  end  of  the  previous  month.  The 
expedition  had  been  most  disastrous.  Of  the  145  white  men,  only  fifteen 
escaped  the  river  fever;  while  of  the  156  blacks,  only  eleven  were  attacked. 
The  list  of  deaths  showed  a  total  of  53.  The  news  of  these  unfortunate  re- 
sults having  reached  England,  orders  were  sent  out  in  the  summer  of  1842  to 
abandon  the  enterprise,  and  remove  the  laborers  from  the  model  farm  ;  which 
was  accordingly  done. 

By  way  of  summing  up  the  information  we  have  yet  been  able,  by  all  our 
researches  and  expeditions,  to  obtain  respecting  Soudan  or  Nigritia,  we  may 
state  an  opinion  which  seems  to  be  gaining  ground.  It  is  maintained  by 
some  that  there  is  evidence  that  great  changes  have  occurred  in  Central 
Africa  within  the  last  few  centuries  ;  that,  in  fact,  a  general  movement 
toward  civilization  is  discernible  in  the  heart  of  this  vast  and  forbidding  con- 
tinent— a  movement  not  originated  by  European  contact,  but  born  among  the 
Africans  themselves.  There  is  evidence,  it  is  said,  that  a  few  centuries  ago 
the  inhabitants  of  Nigritia  were  very  far  inferior,  in  promise  and  culture,  to 
what  they  are  at  present ;  that  the  commercial  spirit  and  manufacturing  in- 
genuity which  travelers  report  to  exist  among  the  negro  tribes  are  of  recent 
growth.  The  great  agents  in  this  change  in  the  condition  of  Central  Africa 
are  said  to  be  the  Foulahs — a  people  of  doubtful  origin,  but  possibly  Asiatic. 
These  Foulahs  are  represented  as  having  acted  as  conquerors  of  the  original 
negro  tribes — triumphing  by  virtue  of  their  superior  temperament  and  or- 
ganization, and  incorporating  the  petty  states  of  the  old  negro  chiefs  into 
large  kingdoms  ;  helping  also  to  civilize  the  natives  by  introducing  among  them 
the  ideas  of  Mahommedanism,  which,  however  inferior  and  pernicious  in 
themselves,  were  yet  an  advance  upon  the  original  negro  beliefs. 

"  Throughout  the  whole  extent  of  Nigritia  or  Negroland,  the  Foulahs  un- 
doubtedly occupy  pre-eminence.  They  are  found  spread  over  a  vast  geogra- 
phic region  of  28  to  30  degrees  of  longitude  (1500  miles),  and  of  7  to  10 
degrees  of  latitude,  or  500  miles.  They  extend  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal  and  Senegambia  on  the  west,  to  the  kingdoms 
of  Bornou  and  Mandara  on  the  east ;  from  the  Desert  of  Sahara  on  the  north, 
to  the  mountains  of  Guinea  oi  Kong  on  the  south.  This  wide  superficies 
contains  more  than  700,000  square  miles,  which  is  equal  to  the  fourth  part 
of  Europe,  and  a  tenth  part  of  the  immense  continent  of  Africa." 

In  some  parts  of  this  vast  extent  of  territory  the  Foulahs  are  politically  su- 
preme, in  others  they  are  feudal  dependents  of  the  original  chiefs;  but  every 
where  they  seem  to  be  the  growing  power.  "  The  Foulahs  are  not  negroes. 
They  differ  essentially  from  the  negro  race  in  all  the  characteristics  which 
are  marked  by  physical  anthropology.  They  may  be  said  to  occupy  the 
intermediate  space  betwixt  the  Arab  and  the  negro.  All  travelers  concur  in 
representing  them  as  a  distinct  race  in  moral  as  in  physical  traits.  To  their 
color,  the  various  terms  of  bronze,  copper,  reddish,  and  sometimes  white,  has 
been  applied.  They  concur  also  in  the  report  that  the  Foulahs  of  every 
region  represent  themselves  to  be  white  men,  and  proudly  assert  their  supe- 
riority to  the  black  tribes  among  whom  they  live.     The  Foulahs  are  rigid 


352  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

Mahommedans,  and  according  to  Mollien  the  French  traveler's  report,  they 
are  animated  by  a  strong  zeal  for  proselytism.  They  are  the  missionaries  of 
Islam  among  the  Pagan  negro  tribes.  Where  they  have  conquered,  they 
have  forced  the  adoption  of  the  Koran  by  the  sword  ;  and  while  pursuing 
quietly  their  pastoral  occupation,  they  become  schoolmasters  (maalims),  and 
thus  propagate  the  doctrines  and  precepts  of  Islam.  Wherever  the  Foul  ah 
has  wandered,  the  Pagan  idolatry  of  the  negro  has  been  overthrown  ;  the 
barbarous  Fetish  and  greegree  have  been  abandoned  ;  anthropophagy  and 
cannibalism  have  been  suppressed.  Thus  the  Foulahs  are  now  exercising  a 
powerful  influence  upon  the  moral  and  social  condition  of  Central  Africa.  I  dc 
not  doubt  that  they  are  destined  to  be  the  great  instrument  in  the  future  civi- 
lization of  Africa,  and  the  consequent  suppression  of  the  external  Atlantic 
slave  trade.  They  will,  probably,  erect  one  vast  empire  in  the  Soudan,  and 
the  influence  which  that  power  may  exert  in  the  great  question  of  African 
civilization,  gives  to  them  no  ordinary  importance."  If  this  opinion  be  true, 
what  might  not  be  the  result  if  the  Foulahs,  at  present  Barbarians  and  Ma- 
homniedans, themselves  were  overpowered  by  the  higher  and  purer  ideas 
which  have  raised  Europe  to  its  present  supremacy  over  the  earth  ?  Mean- 
while, it  is  consoling  to  think  that,  even  in  Central  Africa,  the  human  race 
has  been  moving  onward. 

Northern  Africa  and  the  Great  Desert. — Respecting  that  vast  section  of  the 
African  continent  which  extends  from  the  Mediterranean  to  Nigritia,  it  appears 
that  we  are  only  beginning  to  obtain  a  correct  description.  Various  officers 
of  the  French  army  at  present  engaged  in  the  arduous  enterprise  of  establish- 
ing the  colony  of  Algeria,  have  occupied  themselves  in  collecting  information 
regarding  the  numerous  tribes  overspreading  Northern  Africa  ;  and  it  would 
seem,  from  their  accounts,  that  the  ideas  we  have  been  accustomed  to  enter- 
tain concerning  these  regions  are  far  from  correct. 

According  to  these  recent  accounts,  Northern  Africa,  between  the  Mediter- 
ranean and  Nigritia,  consists  of  two  portions — the  Tell,  or  that  strip  of  land 
varying  from  50  to  120  miles  in  breadth,  which  lies  along  the  sea  ;  and  the 
Sahara,  or,  as  it  has  commonly  been  called,  the  Great  Desert.  V  On  the  Me- 
diterranean coast  of  Africa,  there  are  in  progress  at  this  moment  great  politi- 
cal and  commercial  revolutions.  There  exists  in  that  region  a  sanguinary 
and  unceasing  conflict  of  Christianity  with  Mahommedanism,  of  civilization 
with  semi-barbarism.  France  having  conquered  the  extensive  territory  of 
Algeria,  is  now  pushing  forward  her  victorious  legions  into  the  more  impor- 
tant and  more  populous  empire  of  Morocco.  The  result  of  a  conflict  between 
undisciplined  hordes  and  the  science  of  European  warfare  cannot  be  doubtful. 
:But  there  are  elements  in  this  contest  which  perhaps  have  not  been  well  un- 
derstood. It  is  not  with  the  Arab  population  of  those  countries  with  which 
France  has  chiefly  to  contend.  That,  indeed,  is  the  more  intellectual  but 
smaller  portion  of  the  people  of  Algeria  and  Morocco.  The  more  ferocious 
and  larger  portion  of  that  population  consists  of  the  aboriginal  Berbers,  the 
ancient  Numidians,  and  Mauritanians.  The  Romans  termed  this  race  genus 
inswperabile  hello — '  unconquerable  in  war.'  It  remains  to  be  determined  if 
they  have  lost  that  proud  appellation." 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  353 

"  To  form  a  correct  conception  of  the  Sahara,"  says  a  writer  in  the  Ed  in 
burgh  Review,  condensing  the  information  contained  in  some  of  the  recent 
French  publications  on  the  subject,  "  our  readers  must  dismiss  from  their 
minds  all  the  loose  and  fantastic  conceptions  which  have  been  attached,  from 
time  immemorial,  to  the  interior  of  northern  Africa.  Instead  of  a  torrid  re- 
gion, where  boundless  steppes  of  burning  sand  are  abandoned  to  the  roving 
horsemen  of  the  Desert,  and  to  beasts  of  prey,  and  where  the  last  vestiges  of 
Moorish  civilization  expire  long  before  the  traveler  arrives  at  Negroland  and 
the  savage  communities  of  the  interior,  the  Sahara  is  now  ascertained  to  con- 
sist of  a  vast  archipelago  of  oases  ;  each  of  them  peopled  by  a  tribe  of  the 
Moorish  race  or  its  offsets,  more  civilized,  and  more  capable  of  receiving  the 
lessons  of  civilization,  than  the  houseless  Arabs  of  the  Tell  [the  mountainous 
tract  lying  between  the  Great  Desert  and  the  sea]  ;  cultivating  the  date-tree 
with  application  and  ingenuity,  inhabiting  walled  towns,  living  under  a  regu- 
lar government,  for  the  most  part  of  a  popular  origin  ;  carrying  to  some  per- 
fection certain  branches  of  native  manufactures,  and  keeping  up  an  extensive 
system  of  cr..iii  ercial  intercourse  with  the  northern  and  central  part  of  the 
African  continent,  and  from  Mogador  to  Mecca,  by  the  enterprise  and  activity 
of  their  caravans.  Each  of  the  oases  of  the  Sahara,  which  are  divided  from 
one  another  by  sandy  tracts,  bearing  shrubs  and  plants  fit  only  for  the  nou- 
rishment of  cattle,  presents  an  animated  group  of  towns  and  villages.  Everv 
village  is  enriched  by  a  profusion  of  fruit-bearing  trees.  The  palm  is  the 
monarch  of  their  orchards,  as  much  by  the  grace  of  its  form,  as  by  the  value 
of  its  productions  ;  and  the  pomegranate,  the  fig-tree,  and  the  apricot  cluster 
around  its  lofty  stem.  The  lions  and  other  beasts  of  prey  with  which  poetry 
has  peopled  the  African  wilds  are  to  be  met  with  only  in  the  mountains  of 
the  Tell,  never  in  the  plains  of  the  Sahara.  The  robber  tribes  of  the  Tuaricks 
frequent  the  southern  frontier  of  the  Sahara,  and  the  last  tracts  of  habitable 
land  which  intervene  between  these  oases  and  the  real  Desert ;  but  in  the 
Sahara  itself,  communications,  carried  on  after  the  fashion  of  the  country,  are 
regular  and  secure.  War  is,  indeed,  of  frequent  occurrence  between  the  neigh- 
boring tribes,  either  for  the  possession  of  disputed  territories,  or  the  revenge 
of  supposed  injuries  ;  but  all  that  is  yet  known  of  these  singular  communities 
shows  them  to  be  living  in  a  completely  constituted  state  of  society,  eminently 
adapted  to  the  peculiar  part  of  the  globe  which  they  inhabit,  governed  by  the 
strong  traditions  of  a  primitive  people,  and  fulfilling  with  energy  and  intel- 
gence,  the  strange  vocations  of  their  life." 

"  Almost  all  the  Sahara  tribes,"  says  M.  Carette,  a  French  captain  of  en- 
gineers, vho  has  contributed  much  to  clear  up  our  notions  of  this  portion  of 
Africa,  tff%  accustomed  to  a  system  of  annual  peregrination,  which  must  have 
existed  from  time  immemorial,  inasmuch  as  it  is  based  upon  the  nature  of  the 
climate  and  the  produce,  and  the  primary  wants  of  their  existence.  This 
general  movement  is  commonly  performed  in  the  following  manner  : — During 
the  winter  and  spring  the  tribes  are  collected  in  the  waste  tracts  of  the  Sahara, 
which,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  supply  water  and  fresh  vegetation,  but  they 
never  remain  more  than  three  or  four  days  on  any  one  spot ;  and  when  the 
pasture  is  exhausted,  they  strike  their  tents,  and  go  to  establish  themselves 
23 


354  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

elsewhere.  Toward  the  end  of  the  spring  thej  pass  through  the  towns  of  the 
Sahara,  where  their  merchandise  is  deposited.  They  load  their  camels  with 
dates  and  woollen  stuffs,  and  then  turn  their  steps  toward  the  north,  taking 
with  them  their  whole  wandering  city — women,  dogs,  herds,  and  tents — for 
it  is  at  this  season  that  the  springs  begin  to  dry  and  the  plants  to  wither  on 
the  Sahara,  at  the  same  time  that  the  corn  is  ripe  in  the  Tell.  There  they 
arrive  at  the  moment  of  the  harvest,  when  corn  is  abundant  and  cheap,  and 
thus  they  take  a  double  advantage  of  the  season,  by  abandoning  the  waste  as 
it  becomes  arid,  and  seeking  their  fresh  stock  of  provisions  in  the  north,  when 
the  markets  are  overstocked  with  grain.  The  summer  they  pass  in  this  coun- 
try in  commercial  activity,  exchanging  their  dates  and  woolen  manufactured 
goods  for  corn,  raw  wool,  sheep,  and  butter  ;  while  their  herds  are  allowed 
to  browse  freely  upon  the  lands,  which  lie  fallow  after  the  gathering  in  of  the 
harvest.  The  signal  for  the  return  homeward  is  given  at  the  end  of  the  summer; 
the  camels  are  reloaded,  the  tents  again  struck,  and  the  wandering  city  once 
more  marches  forth,  as  it  came,  in  short  days'  journeys  toward  the  south. 

The  Sahara  is  regained  about  the  middle  of  October,  the  period  when  the 
dates  are  ripe.  A  month  is  passed  in  gathering  and  storing  this  fruit ;  ano- 
ther is  devoted  to  the  exchange  of  the  wheat,  and  barley,  and  raw  wool  for 
the  year's  dates  and  the  woolen  stuffs — the  produce  of  the  yearly  labor  of 
the  women.  When  all  this  business  is  concluded,  and  the  merchandise 
stored  away,  the  tribes  quit  the  towns,  and  lead  their  flocks  and  herds  from 
pasture-land  to  pasture-land  among  the  waste  tracts  of  the  Sahara,  until  the 
following  summer  calls  for  a  renewal  of  the  same  journey,  the  same  system 
of  trade. 

"  The  Sahara,"  continues  M.  Carette,  "is  that  part  of  Algeria  which  is  most 
civilized  and  most  capable  of  receiving  civilization.  It  is  there  that  habits  of 
precision  are  most  generally  diffused,  and  there  that  we  find  the  greatest 
amount  of  intelligence,  activity,  and  social  disposition."  The  only  portion  of 
the  Sahara  which  answers  to  our  ideas  of  an  uninterrupted  waste  of  sand, 
seems  to  be  the  most  southern  belt  of  it,  which  adjoins  Nigritia,  and  which  is 
infested  by  a  roving  race  called  the  Tuaricks,  who  conduct  a  commercial  in- 
tercourse, especially  in  slaves,  between  the  negro  countries  and  the  oases  of 
the  more  northern  parts  of  the  Sahara.  "  These  Tuaricks,"  says  M.  Carette, 
"  pretend  to  be  of  Turkish  descent,  and  affect  to  treat  the  Arabs  with  disdain. 
They  are  tall,  strong,  of  slender  make,  and  of  fair  complexion,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  of  mixed  blood.  They  wear  a  head-dress,  one  of  the  ends 
of  which  covers  the  whole  face  except  the  eyes  ;  and  almost  all,  whether  rich 
or  poor,  have  their  feet  bare,  because,  according  to  their  own  account,  they 
never  go  on  foot."  The  southern  Tuaricks  keep  the  towns  of  the  Soudan 
in  a  constant  state  of  blockade,  hunting  down  the  negroes  in  their  neighbor- 
hood, and  carrying  them  off  for  sale. 

From  the  general  survey  which  we  have  taken  of  Africa,  and  of  the  progress 
of  African  discovery,  it  appears  that,  while  there  is  scarcely  a  point  in  its 
vast  circuit  where  Europeans  have  not  attempted  to  settle,  scarcely  any  of 
the  settlements  have  flourished.  For  the  purposes  of  trade,  such  establish- 
ments will  no  doubt  be  maintained  at  a  vast  sacrifice  of  life — the  consequence 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  355 

of  the  pestilential  effects  of  the  climate  on  European  constitutions  ;  but  it  it 
not  likely  that  any  settlements  of  a  permanent  description  will  be  effected 
except  at  the  southern  and  northern  extremities  of  the  continent.  Cape  Co- 
lony as  yet  is  the  most  prosperous,  indeed  the  only  settlement  worthy  of  the 
name  in  Africa  ;  whether  the  French  will  be  able  to  make  anything  of  Alge- 
ria, remains  yet  to  be  seen.  As  for  the  center  of  the  continent,  it  seems  quite 
hopeless  to  suppose  that  Europeans  can  ever  operate  there  directly.  The 
utmost  that  can  be  anticipated  is,  that  they  shall  be  able  to  act  upon  the  con- 
tinent through  native  agents.  By  establishing  a  commerce  with  central 
Africa,  they  may  stimulate  whatever  tendencies  to  civilization  exist  among 
the  negro  races  ;  they  may  create  an  activity  through  the  continent  resembling 
that  caused  by  the  slave  traffic,  but  every  way  nobler  and  more  beneficial. 
Whatever  seeds  of  improvement  there  are  among  the  natives,  whether  negroes, 
Foulahs,  or  Arabs,  may  be  developed  by  this  means,  and  made  to  fructify. 
And  in  this  respect,  nothing  could  be  more  gratifying  than  to  know  that  the 
opinion  explained  in  a  former  part  of  this  article,  with  regard  to  Central  Africa, 
is  well-founded,  and  that  an  actual  movement  is  in  progress  among  the  na- 
tives toward  a  more  advanced  stage  of  humanity. 

"  The  tastes  and  tendencies  of  the  African  mind  seem  to  tend  toward  mu- 
sic and  the  softer  arts,  rather  than  toward  the  scientific  and  stronger  devel- 
opments of  intellect.  If  this  be  the  ultimate  tendency  of  African  tastes  and 
developments,  then  it  may  be  a  very  desirable  and  beautiful  civilization,  that 
country  will  ultimately  attain  ;  but  one  which  will  never  counteract  the  dom- 
ination of  the  Gothic,  or,  as  it  is  now  called,  the  Anglo-Saxon  superiority.  It 
is  only  the  scientific  development  of  the  human  mind,  which  can  ever  wield 
power. 

"  Africa  is  probably  destined,  eventually,  to  receive  a  civilization,  as  soft 
and  luxurious,  as  ancient  Asia ;  but,  raised  to  a  far  higher  level,  by  the 
genius  of  Christianity — Christianity  is  itself  mild,  peaceful,  and  softening, 
and  may,  therefore,  ultimately  find  in  Africa  and  in  Eastern  climes,  a  soil 
congenial  and  peculiar  to  itself.  Amid  the  world's  overturning  and  revolu- 
tions, it  may  happen,  that  Europe  will  be  darkened  and  defiled  by  a  gross  in- 
fidelity, while  America  and  Africa  may  become  the  residence  of  the  purest 
and  brightest  Christianity  !  Such  a  revolution  would  be  no  more  marvelous 
than  that  Babylon  and  Tyre  have  become  ruins,  and  returned  to  barbarism. 
The  world  is  but  a  complex  scene  of  ruin,  revolution,  and  restoration,  The 
day  is  dawning  for  Africa,  and  even  the  blackness  of  her  night  will  pass 
away  before  the  renewing  influence  of  Christian  civilization." 


CHAPTER   III. 

Origin  of  Slavery — Rise  of  the  African  Slave-trade — African  and  American  Slave-trade- 
Slave  Factories — Slave  Hunts  in  Nubia — Modern  African  Slave-trade — Nominal  abolition 
of  the  Slave  trade — Horrors  of  the  Middle  Passage — Conclusion. 

The  mere  name  of  Africa  insensiby  suggests,  in  connection,  its  great  lead- 
ing article  of  commerce, — the  traffic  in  men.     To  give  a  few  pages  to  this 


356  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

subject,  in  concluding  this  article,  will  be   found  instructive  to  some  of  our 
readers. 

Slavery,  in  some  form,  has  existed  from  the  remotest  ages.  It  obtained, 
among  the  Patriarchs,  was  a  recognized  institution  of  the  Jews,  Egyptians, 
Phoenicians,  Greeks  and  Romans.  In  reading  the  history  of  any  ancient 
State,  we  are  apt  to  forget  it  is  only  of  the  free  inhabitants  that  it  relates,  and 
of  the  immense  mass  of  bondsmen,  we  learn  next  to  nothing.  Debtors  were 
then  sold  to  liquidate  their  debts  ;  gamblers  staked  their  liberty  on  their  last 
chance  ;  or  criminals  were  enslaved  for  crime  ;  parents  sold  their  children, 
and  finally,  war,  more  than  all  others  united,  added  its  multitudes  of  van- 
quished as  victims  to  slavery. 

The  most  enlightened  nations  of  antiquity  gave  the  broadest  sanction  to 
this  institution.  In  Rome  the  slaves  formed  a  motley  population  ;  some  were 
foreigners,  others  natives — some  less  civilized  than  their  masters,  others 
more  so — some  tilled  their  masters'  fields  ;  others  taught  them  the  sciences — 
some  worked  in  chains,  and  endured  the  task  ;  others  lived  in  comfort  and 
were  even  petted  !  Thus  a  rich  citizen  of  Rome,  eighteen  hundred  yean; 
ago,  would  possess  slaves  of  all  nations — dark  haired  beauties  from  the  East  ; 
golden  haired  ones  from  the  North  ;  cooks  from  southern  Italy  ;  learned  men 
and  musicians  from  Greece  or  Egypt ;  menials  and  drudges  from  remote 
Scythia,  interior  Africa,  or  the  savage  island  of  Britain.  Out  of  this  pro- 
miscuous system  arose  negro  slavery. 

Negroland  or  Nigritia  may  be  called  the  land  of  negroes.  In  ancient 
times,  it  bore  but  a  share  of  the  burden.  Britons  and  Scythians  were  the 
fellow-slaves  of  the  Ethiopian ;  but  at  last,  all  the  other  nations  seemed  to 
conspire  against  the  negro  race,  agreeing  never  to  enslave  each  other,  but  to 
make  the  blacks  the  slaves  of  all  alike.  Thus  the  abolition  of  promiscuous 
slavery,  in  the  modern  world,  was  purchased  by  the  introduction  of  a  slavery 
confined  entirely  to  negroes. 

The  African  tribes,  who  ultimately  became  the  universal  prey  of  Euro- 
peans, themselves  subjected  men  to  perpetual  bondage,  and  from  remotest 
time,  every  wealthy  negro  had  his  slaves  alike  with  the  rich  Greek  or  Roman. 
As  in  civilized  countries,  the  slave  population  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  many 
times  exceed  that  of  the  free.  So  the  modern  form  of  negro  slavery  origi- 
nated with  the  negroes  themselves.  In  ancient  times,  negroes  were  trans- 
ported by  their  Arab  or  negro  owners,  across  the  desert,  and  sold  to  the 
Carthaginians  and  Egyptians,  and  occasionally  would  be  exported  from 
thence  into  southern  Europe,  where  they  were  always  highly  valued  for  their 
patience,  mild  temper  and  extraordinary  endurance.  Still  anciently,  in  Eu- 
rope, the  negro  enjoyed  not  that  miserable  pre-eminence  which  now  assigns 
him  as  the  born  drudge  of  the  human  family.  White-skinned  men  were 
alike  slaves,  and  if  in  Carthage  and  Egypt,  black  slaves  more  abounded,  it 
was  solely  because  more  easily  obtained. 

Although  the  use  of  negroes  as  slaves,  by  the  Arabs,  gave  the  first  hint 
of  negro  slavery  to  the  Europeans,  the  Europeans  are  quite  entitled  to  the 
credit  of  having  found  it  out  for  themselves.  As  the  Portuguese  were  the 
first  Europeans  acquainted  with  Africa,  so  they  first  set  the  example  of  from 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  357 

thence  obtaining  negroes.  As  early  as  1434,  one  Anthony  Gonzales,  a  Por- 
tuguese, carried  from  the  coast  of  Guinea  a  few  negro  lads,  and  sold  them 
to  some  Moorish  families  in  Spain, — an  act  which  provoked  criticism  at  the 
time.  But  from  that  day  it  became  customary  for  the  captains  of  vessels 
landing  on  that  coast  to  export  a  few  young  negroes.  The  traffic  proving 
profitable,  negroes  no  longer  were  exported  as  curiosities  in  twos  and  threes, 
but  formed  a  part  of  the  cargo,  as  well  as  gold,  ivory  and  gum.  The  ships 
no  longer  sailed  to  discover  new  countries,  but  for  lucrative  cargoes  ;  and 
the  inhabitants  of  the  negro  villages  along  the  coast,  delighted  with  the 
knives,  bright  cloths,  beads  and  other  gewgaws,  they  received  for  gold,  ivory 
and  slaves,  were  sure  to  have  these  ready  for  any  ship  that  might  land,  so 
that  in  about  seventy  years  after  Gonzales  had  carried  away  the  negro  boys, 
the  slave  trade  was  in  full  blast,  thousands  being  annually  exported, — a  traffic 
in  which  the  Spaniards  had  then  also  entered. 

The  West  India  Islands  was  the  first  part  of  America  colonized  by  the 
Spaniards.  They  first  employed  the  Indians  to  labor  for  them  ;  these, 
although  capable  of  much  passive  endurance,  drooped  and  lost  all  heart  when 
put  to  labor,  and  this  ill-usage  and  the  small-pox  carried  them  off  in  thou- 
sands, so  that  in  St.  Domingo  alone,  in  the  short  space  of  seven  years,  be- 
tween 1508  and  1515,  the  natives  dwindled  from  60,000  to  14,000.  The 
condition  of  these  poor  aborigines  became  so  heart-breaking,  that  the  Do- 
minican priests  espoused  their  cause,  asserting  them  to  be  free  men,  and  de- 
nying the  right  of  making  them  slaves.  Bartholomew  de  Las  Casas,  a  be- 
nevolent priest,  by  his  energy  and  perseverance  as  a  friend  of  the  Indians 
produced  a  great  effect  upon  the  Spanish  government. 

The  relaxation  in  favor  of  one  race  was  at  the  expense  of  the  slavery  of 
another.  As  early  as  1503  a  few  negroes  had  been  imported  into  America, 
and  it  was  found  that  not  only  could  each  do  as  much  work  as  four  Indians, 
but  that  while  the  Indians  were  fast  becoming  extinct,  the  negroes  thrived, 
waxed  fat  and  propagated  wonderfully.  The  plain  inference  was  to  import 
negroes  as  fast  as  possible,  and  it  was  done. 

The  Spaniards  remained  not  long  alone  in  this  new  traffic  ;  but  as  they 
first  had  all  America  to  themselves  where  negro  labor  was  in  demand,  they 
alone  possessed  large  numbers  of  negroes.  But  when  other  nations  came  to 
colonize  America,  they  patronized  the  slave-trade.  In  1616,  negroes  were 
first  imported  into  Virginia,  in  a  Dutch  vessel,  on  trial ;  these  the  planters 
found  so  useful  that  negroes  speedily  came  in  great  demand  in  the  old  Do- 
minion. English  merchants,  calculating  and  vigilant  then  as  now,  embarked 
in  the  traffic,  and  soon  others,  so  that  by  the  middle  of  the  17th  century  all 
Europe  was  buying  and  selling  negroes. 

So  universal  is  the  spirit  for  barter,  that  immediately  the  new  and  great 
demand  for  slaves  created  its  own  supply.  Slavery  had  always  existed  in 
Negroland,  but  was  comparatively  limited.  The  new  demand  stimulated 
the  natural  animosities  of  the  various  negro  tribes  on  the  west  coast ;  and 
tempted  by  the  clasp-knives,  looking-glasses,  and  wonderful  red  cloth  the 
white  men  always  brought,  the  whole  negro  population  for  many  miles  in- 
land began  fighting  and  kidnapping  each  other.     Finally  the  far  interior,  the 


358  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA 

district  of  Lake  Tschad  and  the  mystic  source  of  the  fatal  Niger,  hitherto 
untrodden  by  the  foot  of  a  white  invader,  began  to  feel  the  tremor  caused  bv 
the  traffic  on  the  coast ;  and  erelong  the  very  negroes  who  seemed  safest  in 
their  central  obscurities,  were  drained  away  to  meet  the  increasing  demand  ; 
either  led  captives  by  warlike  visitants  from  the  west,  or  handed  from  tribe  to 
tribe,  till  they  reached  the  sea.  In  this  way  central  Africa,  with  its  teeming 
myriads  of  negroes,  came  to  be  the  great  mother  of  slaves  for  exportation, 
and  the  negro  villages  on  the  coast  the  warehouses,  as  it  were,  where  the 
slaves  were  stowed  away  till  the  ships  of  the  white  men  arrived  to  carry 
them  off. 

European  skill  and  foresight  assisted  in  giving  constancy  and  regularity  to 
the  supply  of  negro'*"'  from  the  interior.  At  first  the  ship  had  to  sail  along 
a  large  tract  or  f'  e  Guinea  coast,  picking  up  a  few  negroes  at  one  place,  a 
little  ivory  or  got4  «  another.  No  coast  is  so  pestilential  as  that  of  Africa, 
and  this  mode  was  clumsy,  repulsive,  and  excessively  dangerous.  There- 
fore, small  settlements  of  Europeans,  called  slave  factories,  were  planted 
along  the  coast,  to  negotiate  with  the  negroes,  stimulate  them  to  activity  in 
their  slave-hunting  expeditions,  purchase  the  slaves  brought  in,  and  ware- 
house them  until  the  arrival  of  the  ships. 

Slave  factories  dotted  the  western  coast  from  Cape  Verde  to  the  equator, 
established  by  French,  English,  Dutch,  and  Portuguese  traders  These  were 
fortifications  generally  built  at  the  mouth  of  some  navigable  river,  or  on 
an  island  near  the  coast.  The  fort  inclosed  a  large  area  ;  within  it  were 
magazines  for  the  merchandise,  soldiers'  barracks,  a  slave  depot,  and  in  gen- 
eral upon  the  ramparts  the  quarters  of  the  officers  and  agents,  and  outside 
the  huts  of  negroes  in  their  service.  If  the  troops  who  garrisoned  the  fort 
exceeded  twenty  or  thirty,  a  commissioned  officer  usually  had  charge  of  them. 
The  most  remarkable  forts  were  St.  George  del  Mina,  erected  by  the  Portu- 
guese ;  Cape  Coast  Castle,  by  the  English  ;  Fort  Louis,  by  the  French,  and 
Goree.  Most  of  them  mounted  from  fifty  to  sixty  pieces,  and  were  capable 
of  standing  a  siege  even  by  regular  troops. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  commander  or  governor  were  the  factors,  a  part 
of  whom  remained  in  the  fort  to  keep  up  the  supplies  and  manage  the  trade 
there  while  others  carried  on  the  traffic  in  the  interior,  often  ascending  the 
rivers  in  armed  vessels  and  exchanging,  with  the  people,  various  articles  for 
slaves,  gold-dust  and  ivory,  and  occasionally  establishing  themselves  in  some 
town,  and  as  it  were  keeping  shop  to  carry  on  their  business. 

The  European  subordinates  of  the  factory,  were  clerks,  book-keepers,  ware- 
housemen, artificers,  mechanics,  gunners  and  soldiers,  all  of  whom  had  par- 
ticular quarters  and  lived  under  military  discipline.  The  soldiers  were 
mostly  the  refuse  of  the  armies  of  their  respective  nations,  dismissed  for  bad 
conduct.  Abandoned  desperadoes  at  home,  they  willingly  engaged  to  go  to 
Africa,  allured  by  a  life  of  ease,  indolence  and  licentiousness,  and  exposed  to 
no  danger  except  that  of  a  deadly  climate.  But  few  were  fit  for  active  duty, 
which  was  of  less  consequence,  as  they  were  seldom  or  never  required  to 
fight  except  on  the  ramparts,  and  rarely,  even  there.  Hence  they  spent 
their  time  in  smoking,  drinking  palm  wine,  and  in  gaming,  and  were  gene- 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  359 

rally  carried  off  by  fever  or  dissipation  inside  of  two  years  after  their  arrival. 
A  stranger  on  first  visiting  any  of  the  African  forts,  felt  there  was  something 
both  horrible  and  ludicrous  in  the  appearance  of  its  garrison  ;  for  the  indi- 
viduals composing  it,  appeared  ghastly,  debilitated  and  diseased,  to  a  degree 
unknown  in  other  climates;  and  their  tattered  and  soiled  uniforms,  resembling 
each  other  only  in  meanness,  and  not  in  color,  suggested  the  idea  of  the 
wearers  being  a  band  of  drunken  deserters,  or  of  starved  and  maltreated 
prisoners  of  war. 

The  forts,  although  employed  principally  as  depots  for  merchandise,  yet 
were  often  visited  by  native  dealers  from  the  interior  with  slaves,  ivory  and 
gold-dust  for  traffic.  They  were  also  most  cordially  received  by  the  gover- 
nor, lest  they  should  take  their  goods  to  another  market,  and  treated  with 
liquors,  sweetmeats  and  presents,  and  urged  to  drink  freely.  The  unsuspi- 
cious negro  merchant,  dazzled  by  the  variety  of  tempting  objects  ostenta- 
tiously displayed  before  him,  and  exhilarated  by  wine  or  brandy,  was  easily 
led  to  conclude  a  bargain  little  advantageous  to  himself;  and  before  he 
got  sober,  his  slaves,  ivory  and  gold-dust,  were  transferred  to  the  stores  of 
the  factory,  and  he  was  obliged  to  be  contented  with  what  he  had,  in  his  mo- 
ments of  inebriety,  agreed  to  accept  in  exchange  for  them. 

From  this  it  appears,  that  not  only  did  the  managers  of  the  factories  re- 
ceive all  the  negroes  brought  to  them,  but  that  emissaries,  "junior  factors" 
as  they  were  called,  penetrated  into  the  interior,  as  if  thoroughly  to  infect 
the  central  tribes  with  the  spirit  of  commerce.  The  result  of  this  was  the 
creation  of  large  slave  markets  in  the  interior,  and  where  slave  merchants, 
whether  Negro,  Arabic,  or  European,  met  to  conclude  their  wholesale  bar- 
gains. One  of  these  great  slave  markets  was  at  Timbuctoo  ;  but  for  the 
most  part  the  slaves  were  brought  down  in  droves  by  Slatees,  or  negro  slave 
merchants,  to  the  European  factories  on  the  coast.  At  the  time  Park  tra- 
veled in  Africa,  so  completely  had  the  interior  become  possessed  with  the 
trading  spirit,  so  much  had  the  capture  and  abduction  of  negroes  increased, 
that  those  native  slave  merchants  were  observed  to  treat  the  slaves  they  were 
driving  to  the  coast  with  considerable  kindness.  The  negroes  were,  indeed, 
chained  together  to  prevent  their  escape.  Those  who  were  refractory  had 'a 
thick  billet  of  wood  fastened  to  their  ankle  ;  and  as  the  poor  wretches,  quitting 
their  native  spots,  became  sullen  and  moody,  their  limbs  at  the  same  time 
swelling  and  breaking  out  in  sores  with  the  fatigue  of  traveling,  it  was  often 
necessary  to  apply  the  whip. 

Still,  the  Slatees  were  not  wantonly  cruel  ;  and  there  was  nothing  they 
liked  better  than  to  see  their  slaves  merry.  Occasionally  they  would  halt  in 
their  march,  and  encourage  the  negroes  to  sing  their  snatches  of  song,  or  play 
their  games  of  hazard,  or  dance  under  the  shade  of  the  tamarind  tree.  This, 
however,  was  only  the  case  with  the  professional  slave-driver,  who  was  com- 
missioned to  convey  the  negroes  to  the  coast ;  and  if  we  wish  to  form  a  con- 
ception of  the  extent  and  intricate  working  of  the  curse  inflicted  upon  the 
negroes  by  their  contact  with  white  men,  we  must  set  ourselves  to  imagine 
all  the  previous  kidnapping  and  fighting  which  must  have  been  necessary  to 
procure  every  one  of  these  droves  which  the  Slatees  carried  down.     What  a 


360  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

number  of  processes  must  have  conspired  to  collect  a  sufficient  number  of 
slaves  to  form  a  drove  !  In  one  case,  it  would  be  a  negro  master  selling  a 
number  of  his  spare  slaves  ;  and  what  an  amount  of  suffering  even  in  this 
case  must  there  have  been  arising  from  the  separation  of  relatives  !  In  an- 
other case,  it  would  be  a  father  selling  his  son,  or  a  son  selling  his  old  father, 
or  a  creditor  selling  his  insolvent  debtor.  In  a  third,  it  would  be  a  starving 
family  voluntarily  surrendering  itself  to  slavery.  When  a  scarcity  occurred, 
instances  used  to  be  frequent  of  famishing  negroes  coming  to  the  British 
stations  in  Africa  and  begging  •'  to  be  put  upon  the  slave  chain."  In  a 
fourth  case,  it  would  be  a  savage  selling  the  boy  or  girl  he  had  kidnapped 
a  week  ago  on  purpose.  In  a  fifth,  it  would  be  a  petty  negro  chief  disposing 
of  twenty  or  thirty  negroes  taken  alive  in  a  recent  attack  upon  a  village  at  a 
little  distance  from  his  own.  Sometimes  these  forays  in  quest  of  negroes  to 
sell  are  on  a  very  large  scale,  and  then  they  are  called  slave-hunts.  The 
king  of  one  negro  country  collects  a  large  army,  and  makes  an  expedition 
into  the  territories  of  another  negro  king,  ravaging  and  making  prisoners 
as  he  goes.  If  the  inhabitants  make  a  stand  against  him,  a  battle  ensues,  in 
which  the  invading  army  is  generally  victorious.  As  many  are  killed  as  may 
be  necessary  to  decide  that  such  is  the  case  ;  and  the  captives  are  driven 
awav  in  thousands,  to  be  kept  on  the  property  of  the  victor  till  he  finds  op- 
portunities of  selling  them.  In  1794,  the  king  of  the  southern  Foulahs,  a 
powerful  tribe  in  Nigritia,  was  known  to  have  an  army  of  16,000  men  con- 
stantly employed  in  these  slave-hunting  expeditions  into  his  neighbors'  terri- 
tories.    The  slaves  they  procured  made  the  largest  item  in  his  revenue. 

While  a  wholesale  deportation  of  slaves  from  Central  Africa  was  actively 
organized,  and  conducted  in  order  to  supply  the  American  market,  Nubia, 
and  some  other  districts  were  equally  laid  under  contribution  for  slaves,  by 
Egyptian  and  Turkish  invaders.  Unlike  the  Christians,  the  less  fastidious 
Mohammedans  captured  slaves  for  themselves,  and  under  Mohammed  Ali, 
the  late  ruler  of  Egypt,  this  system  was  carried  on  to  an  enormous  extent. 

His  slave-hunts  were  conducted  on  a  grand  scale.  These  expeditions  took 
place  annually,  after  the  rainy  season,  with  as  much  regularity  as  the  collect- 
ing of  a  tax,  and  were  called  "  The  Gasna."  Dr.  Maddon,  who  was  in 
Egypt  in  1840,  gives  the  following  description: 

"  The  capturing  expedition  consists  of  from  1000  to  2000  regular  foot 
soldiers  ;  400  to  800  Bedouins  on  horseback,  armed  with  guns  and  pistols  ; 
300  to  500  of  the  militia  (half-naked  savages)  on  dromedaries,  with  shields 
and  spears  ;  and  1000  more  on  foot,  with  bucklers  and  small  lances.  As 
soon  as  everything  is  ready,  the  march  begins.  They  usually  take  from  two 
to  four  field-pieces,  and  only  sufficient  bread  for  the  first  eight  days.  Oxen, 
sheep,  and  other  cattle,  are  generally  taken  by  force  before,  at  Kordofan, 
although  the  tax  upon  cattle  may  have  been  paid.  When  they  meet  with  a 
flock,  either  feeding  or  at  the  watering-places,  they  steal  the  cattle,  and  do 
not  care  whether  it  belongs  to  one  or  more  persons  ;  they  make  no  reparation 
for  necessary  things,  whoever  may  be  the  sufferer ;  and  no  objection  or  com- 
plaint is  listened  to,  as  the  governor  himself  is  present. 

As  soon  as  they  arrive  at  the  nearest  mountains  in  Nubia,  the  inhabitants 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  361 

are  asked  to  give  the  appointed  number  of  slaves  as  their  customary  tribute* 
This  is  usually  done  with  readiness  ;  for  these  people  live  so  near  Kordofan, 
and  are  well  aware  that,  by  an  obstinate  refusal,  they  expose  themselves  to 
far  greater  sufferings.  If  the  slaves  are  given  without  resistance,  the  inhabi- 
tants of  that  mountain  are  preserved  from  the  horrors  of  an  open  attack  ; 
but  as  the  food  of  the  soldiers  begins  to  fail  about  that  time,  the  poor  people 
are  obliged  to  procure  the  necessary  provisions  as  well  as  the  specified  num- 
ber of  slaves,  and  the  Turks  do  not  consider  whether  the  harvest  has  been 
good  or  bad.  All  that  is  not  freely  given,  the  soldiers  take  by  force.  Like 
so  many  bloodhounds,  they  know  how  to  discover  the  hidden  stores,  and  fre- 
quently leave  these  unfortunate  people  scarcely  a  loaf  for  the  next  day.  They 
then  proceed  on  to  the  more  distant  mountains :  here  they  consider  them- 
selves to  be  in  the  land  of  an  enemy  :  they  encamp  near  the  mountain  which 
they  intend  to  take  by  storm  the  following  day,  or  immediately,  if  it  is  prac- 
ticable. But  before  the  attack  commences,  they  endeavor  to  settle  the  affair 
amicably:  a  messenger  is  sent  to  the  sheikh,  in  order  to  invite  him  to  come  to  the 
camp,  and  to  bring  with  him  the  requisite  number  of  slaves.  If  the  chief  agrees 
with  his  subjects  to  the  proposal,  in  order  to  prevent  all  further  bloodshed,  or 
if  he  finds  his  means  inadequate  to  attempt  resistance,  he  readily  gives  the 
appointed  number  of  slaves.  The  sheikh  then  proceeds  to  procure  the  number 
he  has  promised ;  and  this  is  not  difficult,  for  many  volunteers  offer  them- 
selves for  their  brethren,  and  are  ready  to  subject  themselves  to  all  the  hor- 
rors of  slavery,  in  order  to  free  those  they  love.  Sometimes  they  are  obliged 
to  be  torn  by  force  from  the  embraces  of  their  friends  and  relations.  The 
sheikh  generally  receives  a  dress  as  a  present  for  his  ready  services. 

But  there  are  very  few  mountains  that  submit  to  such  a  demand.  Most 
villages  which  are  advantageously  situated,  and  lie  near  steep  precipices  or 
inaccessible  heights,  that  can  be  ascended  only  with  difficulty,  defend  them- 
selves most  valiantly,  and  fight  for  the  rights  of  liberty  with  a  courage,  per- 
severance, and  sacrifice,  of  which  history  furnishes  us  with  few  examples. 
Very  few  flee  at  the  approach  of  their  enemies,  although  they  might  take 
refuge  in  the  high  mountains,  with  all  their  goods,  especially  as  they  receive 
timely  information  of  the  arrival  of  the  soldiers  ;  but  they  consider  such 
flights  cowardly  and  shameful,  and  prefer  to  die  fighting  for  their  liberty. 

If  the  sheikh  does  not  yield  to  the  demand,  an  attack  is  made  upon  the  vil- 
lage. The  cavalry  and  bearers  of  lances  surround  the  whole  mountain,  and 
the  infantry  endeavor  to  climb  the  heights.  Formerly,  they  fired  with  cannon 
upon  the  villages  and  those  places  where  the  negroes  were  assembled,  but, 
on  account  of  the  want  of  skill  of  the  artillerymen,  few  shots,  if  any,  took 
effect :  the  negroes  became  indifferent  to  this  prelude,  and  were  only  stimu- 
lated to  a  more  obstinate  resistance.  The  thundering  of  the  cannon,  at  first, 
caused  more  consternation  than  their  effects,  but  the  fears  of  the  negroes 
ceased  as  soon  as  they  became  accustomed  to  it.  Before  the  attack  com 
mences,  all  avenues  to  the  village  are  blocked  up  with  large  stones  or  other 
impediments,  the  village  is  provided  with  water  for  several  days,  the  cattle 
and  other  property  taken  up  to  the  mountain  ;  in  short,  nothing  necessary  foi 
a  proper  defense  is  neglected.     The  men,  armed  only  with  lances,  occupy 


3(}2  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

every  spot  which  may  be  defended  ;  and  even  the  women  do  not  remain  in- 
active :  they  either  take  part  in  the  battle  personally,  or  encourage  their  hus- 
bands by  their  cries  and  lamentations,  and  provide  them  with  arms  ;  in  short, 
all  are  active,  except  the  sick  and  aged.  The  points  of  their  wooden  lances 
are  first  dipped  into  a  poison  which  is  standing  by  them  in  an  earthen  vessel, 
and  which  is  prepared  from  the  juice  of  a  certain  plant.  The  poison  is  of  a 
whitish  color,  and  looks  like  milk  which  has  been  standing  ;  the  nature  of  the 
plant,  and  the  manner  in  which  the  poison  is  prepared,  is  still  a  secret,  and 
generally  known  only  to  one  family  in  the  village,  who  will  not  on  any  account 
make  it  known  to  others. 

The  signal  for  attack  being  given,  the  infantry  sound  the  alarm,  and  an 
assault  is  made  upon  the  mountain.  Hundreds  of  lances,  large  stones,  and 
pieces  of  wood,  are  then  thrown  at  the  assailants  ;  behind  every  large  stone 
a  negro  is  concealed,  who  either  throws  his  poisoned  lance  at  the  enemy,  or 
waits  for  the  moment  when  his  opponent  approaches  the  spot  of  his  conceal- 
ment, when  he  pierces  him  with  his  lance.  The  soldiers,  who  are  only  able 
to  climb  up  the  steep  heights  with  great  difficulty,  are  obliged  to  sling  their 
guns  over  their  backs,  in  order  to  have  the  use  of  their  hands  when  climbing, 
and,  consequently,  are  often  in  the  power  of  the  negroes  before  they  are  able 
to  discover  them.  But  nothing  deters  these  robbers.  Animated  with  avarice 
and  revenge,  they  mind  no  impediment,  not  even  death  itself.  One  after 
another  treads  upon  the  corpse  of  his  comrade,  and  thinks  only  of  robbery 
and  murder ;  and  the  village  is  at  last  taken,  in  spite  of  the  most  desperate 
resistance.  And  then  the  revenge  is  horrible.  Neither  the  aged  nor  the  sick 
are  spared ;  women,  and  even  children  in  the  womb,  fall  a  sacrifice  to  their 
fury;  the  huts  are  plundered,  the  little  possession  of  the  unfortunate  inhabi- 
tants carried  away  or  destroyed,  and  all  that  fall  alive  into  the  hands  of  the 
robbers  are  led  as  slaves  into  the  camp.  When  the  negroes  see  that  their  re- 
sistance is  no  longer  of  any  avail,  they  frequently  prefer  death  to  slavery  ; 
and  if  they  are  not  prevented,  you  may  see  the  father  rip  up  first  the  stomach 
of  his  wife,  then  of  his  children,  and  then  his  own,  that  they  may  not  fall 
alive  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  Others  endeavor  to  save  themselves  by 
creeping  into  holes,  and  remain  there  for  several  days  without  nourishment, 
where  there  is  frequently  only  room  sufficient  to  allow  them  to  lie  on  their 
backs,  and  in  that  situation  they  sometimes  remain  for  eight  days.  They 
have  assured  me,  that  if  they  can  overcome  the  first  three  days,  they  may, 
with  a  little  effort,  continue  full  eight  days  without  food.  But  even  from 
these  hiding-places  the  unfeeling  barbarians  know  how  to  draw  them,  or  they 
make  use  of  means  to  destroy  them  :  provided  with  combustibles,  such  as 
pitch,  brimstone,  etc.,  the  soldiers  try  to  kindle  a  fire  before,  the  entrance  of 
the  holes,  and,  by  forcing  the  stinking  smoke  into  them,  the  poor  creatures 
are  obliged  to  creep  out  and  surrender  themselves  to  their  enemies,  or  they 
are  suffocated  with  the  smoke. 

After  the  Turks  have  done  all  in  their  power  to  capture  the  living,  they 
lead  these  unfortunate  people  into  the  camp  ;  they  then  plunder  the  huts 
and  the  cattle ;  and  several  hundred  soldiers  are  engaged  in  searching  the 
mountain  in  every  direction,  in  order  to  steal  the  hidden  harvest,  that  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  -         363 

rest  of  the  negroes,  who  were  fortunate  enough  to  escape,  and  have  hid 
themselves  in  inaccessible  caves,  should  not  find  anything  on  their  return  to 
nourish  and  continue  their  life. 

When  slaves  to  the  number  of  500  or  600  are  obtained,  they  are  sent  to 
Lobeid,  with  an  escort  of  country  people,  and  about  fifty  soldiers,  under  the 
command  of  an  officer.  In  order  to  prevent  escape,  a  sheba  is  hung  round 
the  necks  of  the  adults.  A  sheba  is  a  young  tree,  about  eight  feet  long,  and 
two  inches  thick,  and  which  has  a  fork  at  the  top  ;  it  is  so  tied  to  the  neck  of 
the  poor  creature,  that  the  trunk  of  the  tree  hangs  down  in  the  front,  and  the 
fork  is  closed  behind  the  neck  with  a  cross-piece  of  timber,  or  tied  together 
with  strips  cut  out  of  a  fresh  skin  ;  and  in  this  situation  the  slave,  in  order  to 
be  able  to  walk  at  all,  is  obliged  to  take  the  tree  into  his  hands,  and  to  carry 
it  before  him.  But  none  can  endure  this  very  long  ;  and  to  render  it  easier, 
the  one  in  advance  takes  the  tree  of  the  man  behind  him  on  his  shoulder." 
In  this  way,  the  men  carrying  the  sheba,  the  boys  tied  together  by  the  wrists, 
the  women  and  children  walking  at  liberty,  and  the  old  and  feeble  tot- 
tering along  leaning  on  their  relations,  the  whole  of  the  captives  are 
driven  into  Egypt,  there  to  be  exposed  for  sale  in  the  slave-market.  Thus 
negroes  and  Nubians  are  distributed  over  the  East,  through  Persia,  Arabia, 
India,  etc." 

From  this,  it  appears  that  there  have  been  two  distinct  slave  trades  going 
on  with  Africa — the  slave  trade  -on  the  west  coast,  for  the  supply  of  America 
and  the  European  colonies,  and  the  slave  trade  on  the  north-east,  for  the  sup- 
ply of  Egypt,  Turkey  and  the  East.  The  one  may  be  called  the  Christian, 
the  other  the  Mahommedan  slave  trade.  The  one  has  been  legally  abolished, 
the  other  is  as  vigorously  prosecuted  as  ever  ;  and  negroes  are  bought  and 
sold  daily  in  the  public  slave  markets  of  Cairo  and  Constantinople.  The  Ma- 
hommedans,  it  is  said,  treat  their  negroes  with  more  kindness  than  the 
Christians.  And  while  the  slaves  of  the  west  are  all  negroes,  in  the  east 
there  are  slaves  of  all  countries,  Asiatics  as  well  as  Africans  ;  as  was  the  case 
in  Greece,  Rome,  and  other  countries  of  the  ancient  world. 

We  return  to  the  western  slave  trade.  About  the  year  1750,  this  trade  was 
carried  on  with  extraordinary  vigor.  All  the  great  nations  had  factories  on 
the  Guinea  coast,  and  ships  of  all  nations  came  periodically  to  carry  off  their 
valuable  cargoes,  which,  it  is  supposed,  did  hot  fall  short  of  100,000  negroes 
annually.  In  thirty  years,  at  this  rate,  Scotland  would  be  emptied  of  its  pre- 
sent population.  So  much  has  the  demand  for  slaves  been  confined  to  Ame- 
rica, that  it  may  be  said,  that  but  for  the  discovery  of  America,  negro  slavery 
would  never  have  existed.  Negro  slavery  was  a  device  struck  out  in  a  bold 
.,nd  unconscientious  age  to  meet  a  great  emergency. .  When  Europe,  as  we 
have  seen,  had  discovered  the  New  World,  with  all  its  riches,  and  found 
the  aborigines  there  useless  as  laborers,  and  fast  disappearing,  broken- 
hearted, into  their  graves,  provoked  at  so  untoward  an  occurrence,  she  looked 
about  in  no  very  scrupulous  mood,  for  some  other  population  less  delicately 
framed,  whom  she  might  compel  to  help  her  through  the  crisis.  Her  eye 
lighted  on  the  brawny  figure  of  the  negro,  and  the  whole  difficulty  vanished. 
Here  was  the  individual  specially  to  dig  in  mines,  and  work  in  su^ar  planta- 


364  ADVENTURES  IN   AFRICA. 

iions.  What  so  convenient  as  to  use  the  old  continent  for  the  purpose  of 
subjugating  the  new  one  ? 

Having  sketched  the  origin  and  progress  of  the  slave  trade,  we  have  now  to 
trace  the  history  of  its  nominal  abolition.  Possibly,  if  we  had  the  means  of 
knowing,  we  should  find  that  from  the  year  1512,  when  Cardinal  Ximenes 
protested  against  the  introduction  of  negroes  into  America,  down  to  the  year 
1787,  when  Clarkson  and  Wilberforce  began  the  great  struggle,  there  were 
never  wanting  in  the  world  good  and  benevolent  men,  who  saw  the  injustice 
of  the  trade,  were  grieved  inwardly  when  they  thought  of  it,  and  even 
denounced  it  in  conversation.  As  cultivated  feeling  advanced,  so  there  was 
a  growing  feeling  that  the  slave  trade  was  a  wrong  thing. 

About  the  year  1650  Morgan  Goodwin  publicly  broached  the  subject  by 
writing  upon  it.  A  century  later  two  memDers  of  the  society  of  Friends  in 
America,  John  Woolman  and  Anthony  Benezet,  endeavored  to  get  the  people 
of  their  own  persuasion  to  abandon  the  traffic.  Benezet  founded  and  taught 
a  negro  school  in  Philadelphia,  and  denounced  the  slave  trade  in  various 
publications.  So  powerful  was  the  effect  produced  by  these  two  men  that 
the  Friends  in  America  emancipated  their  slaves.  In  1772,  through  the  in- 
fluence of  the  benevolent  Granville  Sharpe,  the  English  Bench  made  the 
famous  decision,  "  that  when  a  negro  puts  his  foot  ^>n  English  ground  he  is 
free."  In  1785,  the  slave  trade  was  proposed  as  the  subject  of  a  prize  essay 
at  Cambridge.  The  prize  was  gained  by  Thomas  Clarkson.  On  Sunday, 
the  28th  of  October,  1787,  Wilberforce  made  this  entry  in  his  journal,  "  God 
Almighty  has  placed  before  me  two  great  objects,  the  suppression  of  the 
slave  trade  and  the  reformation  of  manners."  The  reformation  of  manners 
he  did  not  accomplish,  but  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade  he  did.  Clark- 
son and  Wilberforce,  the  twin  spirits  of  the  movement,  were  soon  able  to  form 
a  powerful  confederacy,  including  men  of  all  parties,  and  to  shake  the  mind 
of  the  nation. 

In  1787,  Wilberforce  first  mooted  the  question  in  Parliament,  and  the  sub- 
ject was  continued  to  be  agitated  for  many  years,  the  friends  of  abolition  gra- 
dually gaining  strength  amid  most  strenuous  opposition,  until  the  bill  for  the 
total  abolition  of  the  British  slave  trade  was  passed,  and  received  the  royal 
assent  in  March,  1807.  At  first,  the  penalty  for  continuing  the  traffic  was 
simply  pecuniary  ;  in  1811,  an  act  was  carried  by  Lord  Brougham,  making 
it  felony,  punishable  by  transportation  for  fourteen  years,  or  imprisonment  at 
hard  labor.  This  being  found  inadequate,  in  1824,  the  slave  trade  was  de- 
clared piracy,  and  the  punishment  death.  In  1837,  the  punishment  was 
again  changed  into  imprisonment  for  life. 

Erelong  all  the  foreign  powers  imitated  Great  Britain,  and  the  UnHed 
States  and  Brazil  made  the  traffic  piracy,  punishable  with  death.  And,  with 
the  exception  of  the  United  States,  all  have  agreed  to  the  mutual  right  of 
search  ;  that  is,  each  has  agreed  to  permit  its  ships  to  be  searched  at  sea  by 
the  ships  of  the  others,  so  as  to  detect  any  si  »ves  who  may  be  on  board. 

To  import  negroes  from  Africa,  is  now,  therefore,  an  illegal  act,  by  the  law 
of  all  civilized  nations.  Startling  as  the  assertion  is,  the  slave  trade  is  now 
no  more  abolished  than  it  ever  was  !     This  appaling  fact  is  proved  beyond  tho 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  365 

possibility  of  doubt,  that  all  that  has  been  done  has  only  aggravated  the  evil 
•t  was  intended  to  destroy.  It  has  changed,  what  was  formerly  a  legal  trade, 
pursued  openly  by  respectable  persons,  into  a  contraband  trade,  pursued  se- 
cretly by  blackguards  and  desperadoes.  It  is  an  ascertained  fact  that  no 
illicit  trade  can  be  suppressed  if  the  profits  be  more  than  thirty  per  cent. 
Those  of  the  slave  trade  average  180  or  200  per  cent.  Accordingly,  since 
the  slave  trade  was  declared  illegal,  a  vigorous  contraband  traffic  has  been 
carried  on  by  French,  Spanish,  Portuguese,  and  American  crews,  the  wages 
of  the  common  sailors  often  being  forty  dollars  a  month.  The  captain,  and 
often  the  sailors  in  these  ships,  are  said  to  be  men  of  ability,  not  only  ai 
seamen,  but  in  other  respects.  Cuba  and  Brazil  are  the  principal  slave 
importing  countries.  The  annual  delivery  of  negroes  to  Brazil  is  about 
80,000,  to  Cuba  about  60,000,  and  if  we  add  10,000  for  all  other  places, 
the  annual  delivery  of  negroes  in  America  amounts  to  150,000  ;  that  is  t<s 
say,  nearly  double  the  largest  annual  delivery  ever  known  to  have  been  made 
before  Wilberforce  began  his  labors. 

It  is  calculated  that  for  every  ten  negroes  Africa  parts  with,  America 
receives  only  three  ;  the  other  seven  die.  The  number  150,000  being  that 
which  America  annually  receives,  there  must,  according  to  this  estimate,  be 
500,000  negroes  every  year,  collected  in  the  interior  of  Africa  for  the  Ame- 
rican market,  of  whom — in  the  journey  from  the  interior  to  the  coast, — during 
the  passage  across  the  Atlantic, — and  in  the  process  of  acclimating,  soon  after 
landing — there  perish — men,  women,  boys,  and  girls — the  enormous  number 
of  350,000  ! 

While  the  trade  was  legal,  the  ships  designed  for  carrying  slaves,  were,  in 
a  measure,  constructed  like  other  vessels,  and  the  number  of  negroes  a  ves- 
sel was  allowed  to  carry,  was  fixed  by  law.  All  this  is  now  altered.  By 
making  the  traffic  illegal,  all  power  is  lost  of  regulating  it.  In  order  to  es- 
cape the  cruisers,  all  slave-ships  are  constructed  on  the  principle  of  fast-sailing. 
The  risk  of  being  captured  takes  away  all  inducements,  from  mere  selfish 
motives,  to  make  the  cargo  moderate  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  now  an  object  to 
make  the  cargo  as  large  as  possible,  for  then,  the  escape  of  one  cargo  out  of 
three  will  amply  repay  the  dealer.  Accordingly,  the  negroes  now  are  packed 
in  the  slave  ships  literally  (and  this  is  the  comparison  always  used)  like  her- 
rings in  a  barrel.  They  have  neither  standing  room,  nor  sitting  room,  nor 
lying  room  ;  and  as  for  change  of  position  during  the  voyage,  the  thing  is 
impossible.  They  are  cooped  up  anyhow,  squeezed  into  crevices,  or  jammed 
up  against  the  curved  planks.  The  allowance  in  breadth  for  an  adult  negro 
is  nine  inches,  so  that  the  only  possible  posture  is  on  the  side.  The  following 
is  a  brief  description  given  by  an  eye-witness,  of  the  unloading  of  a  captured 
slaver,  which  had  been  brought  into  Sierra  Leone  :  "  The  captives  were  now 
counted  ;  their  numbers,  sex,  and  age,  written  down,  for  the  information  of 
the  court  of  mixed  commission.  The  task  was  repulsive.  As  the  hold  had 
been  divided  for  the  separation  of  the  men  and  the  women,  those  on  deck 
were  first  counted  ;  they  were  then  driven  forward,  crowded  as  much  as  pos- 
sible, and  the  women  were  drawn  up  through  the  small  hatchway  from  their 
hot,  dark  confinement.     A  black  boatswain  seized  them  one  by  one,  dragging 


366  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

them  before  us  for  a  moment,  when  the  proper  officer,  on  a  glance,  decided 
the  age,  whether  above  or  under  fourteen  ;  and  they  were  instantly  swung 
again  by  the  arm  into  their  loathsome  cell,  where  another  negro  boatswain 
sat,  with  a  whip  or  stick,  and  forced  them  to  resume  the  bent  and  painful  atti- 
tude necessary  for  the  stowage  of  so  large  a  number.  The  unfortunate 
women  and  girls,  in  general,  submitted  with  quiet  resignation,  when  absence 
of  disease  and  the  use  of  their  limbs  permitted.  A  month  had  made  their 
condition  familiar  to  them.  One  or  two  were  less  philosophical,  or  suffered 
more  acutely  than  the  rest.  Their  shrieks  rose  faintly  from  their  hidden  pri- 
son, as  violent  compulsion  alone  squeezed  them  into  their  nook  against  the 
curve  of  the  ship's  side.  I  attempted  to  descend  in  order  to  see  the  accom- 
modation. The  height  between  the  floor  and  ceiling  was  about  twenty-two 
inches.  The  agony  of  tbe  position  of  the  crouching  slaves  may  be  imagined, 
especially  that  of  the  men,  whose  heads  and  necks  are  bent  down  by  the 
boarding  above  them.  Once  so  fixed,  relief  by  motion  or  change  of  posture 
is  unattainable.  The  body  frequently  stiffens  in  a  permanent  curve  ;  and  in 
the  streets  of  Freetown  I  have  seen  liberated  slaves  in  every  conceivable  state 
of  distortion.  One  I  remember,  who  trailed  along  his  body,  with  his  back  to 
the  ground,  by  means  of  his  hands  and  ankles.  Many  can  never  resume  the 
upright  posture." 

One  item  of  the  immense  mortality  during  the  passage,  consists  of  negroes 
thrown  overboard  when  the  slaver  is  chased,  or  when  a  storm  arises.  Many 
thousands  perish  annually  in  this  way.  On  board  ship,  continuance  of 
misery,  frequently  for  many  weeks  in  a  cramped  posture,  aside  from  the  mor- 
tality it  occasions,  spreads  disease  among  the  survivors.  Dropsy,  eruptions, 
abscesses,  dysentery,  and  blindness,  sometimes  become  general. 

Where  slavers  are  captured,  the  whole  amount  of  punishment  is  usually 
nothing  more  than  the  forfeiture  of  the  ship.  With  reg  rd  to  the  crews,  the 
laws  which  make  slave-dealing  piracy,  and  liable  to  capital  punishment,  is, 
practically,  a  dead  letter,  there  being  no  instance  of  an  execution  for  that 
crime.  The  poor  negroes,  on  the  other  hand,  when  taken  out  of  the  captured 
vessel,  have  very  little  attention  paid  to  them,  and  are  cast  adi:ft  to  shift  for 
themselves. 

Lastly,  the  condition  of  the  poor  negroes  at  sea,  when  the  sla\  er  falls  into 
British  hands,  is  far  from  being  improved.  Perhaps,  never  was  the  utter 
inefficacy,  the  utter  foolishness  we  may  say,  of  all  that  has  yet  been  done  to- 
ward the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade,  been  more  strikingly  made  out  than 
in  the  harrowing  pamphlet  recently  published  by  the  Rev.  Pascoe  Grenfell 
Hill,  entitled  "  Fifty  Days  on  Board  a  Slave  Vessel  in  the  Mozambique  Chan- 
nel, in  April  and  May  1843."  The  Progresso,  a  Brazilian  slaver,  was  cap- 
tured on  the  12th  of  April,  on  the  coast  of  Madagascar,  by  the  British  cruiser 
Cleopatra,  on  board  of  which  Mr.  Hill  was  chaplain.  The  slaver  was  then 
taken  charge  of  by  a  British  crew,  who  were  to  navigate  her  to  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  Mr.  Hill,  at  his  own  request,  accompanied  her;  and  his 
pamphlet  is  a  narrative  of  what  took  place  during  the  fifty  days  which 
elapsed  before  their  arrival  at  the  Cape.  We  cannot  here  quote  the  details  of 
the  description  of  the  treatment  of  the  negroes  given  by  Mr.  Hill ;  but  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA.  357 

following  account  of  the  horrors  of  a  single  night  will  suffice.  Shortly  after 
the  Progresso  parted  company  with  the  Cleopatra,  a  squall  arose,  and  tW 
negroes,  who  were  breathing  fresh  air  on  the  deck,  and  rolling  themselves 
about  for  glee,  and  kissing  the  hands  and  the  clothes  of  their  deliverers,  were 
all  sent  below.  "The  night,"  says  Mr.  Hill,  "being  intensely  hot,  400 
wretched  beings  thus  crammed  into  a  hold  12  yards  in  length,  7  in  breadth, 
and  only  3^  feet  in  height,  speedily  began  to  make  an  effort  to  re-issue  to  the 
open  air.  Being  thrust  back,  and  striving  the  more  to  get  out,  the  after- 
hatch  was  forced  down  on  them.  Over  the  other  hatchway,  in  the  fore-part 
of  the  vessel,  a  wooden  grating  was  fastened.  To  this,  the  sole  inlet  for  the 
air,  the  suffocating  heat  of  the  hold,  and  perhaps  panic  from  the  strangeness 
of  their  situation,  made  them  press  ;  and  thus  great  part  of  the  space  below 
was  rendered  useless.  They  crowded  to  the  grating,  and,  clinging  to  it  for 
air,  completely  barred  its  entrance.  They  strove  to  force  their  way  through 
apertures  fourteen  inches  in  length  and  barely  six  inches  in  breadth,  and  in  some 
instances  succeeded.  The  cries,  the  heat — I  may  say  without  exaggeration, 
*  the  smoke  of  their  torment' — which  ascended,  can  be  compared  to  nothing 
earthly.  One  of  the  Spaniards  gave  warning  that  the  consequence  would  be 
'many  deaths.'  "  Next  day  the  prediction  of  the  Spaniard  "was  fearfully 
verified.  Fifty-four  crushed  and  mangled  corpses  lifted  up  from  the  slave 
deck  have  been  brought  to  the  gangway  and  thrown  overboard.  Some  were 
emaciated  from  disease,  many  bruised  and  bloody.  Antonio  tells  me  that 
some  were  found  strangled,  their  hands  still  grasping  each  other's  throats, 
and  tongues  protruding  from  their  mouths.  The  bowels  of  one  were  crushed 
out.  They  had  been  trampled  to  death  for  the  most  part,  the  weaker  under 
the  feet  of  the  stronger,  in  the  madness  and  torment  of  suffocation  from 
crowd  and  heat.  It  was  a  horrid  sight,  as  they  passed  one  by  one — the  stiff 
distorted  limbs  smeared  with  blood  and  filth — to  be  cast  into  the  sea.  Some, 
still  quivering,  were  laid  on  the  deck  to  die  ;  salt  water  thrown  on  them  to 
revive  them,  and  a  little  fresh  water  poured  into  their  mouths.  Antonio  re- 
minded me  of  his  last  night's  warning.  He  actively  employed  himself,  with 
his  comrade  Sebastian,  in  attendance  on  the  wretched  living  beings  now  re- 
leased from  their  confinement  below;  distributing  to  them  their  morning  meal 
of  farina,  and  their  allowance  of  water,  rather  more  than  half  a  pint  to 
each,  which  they  grasped  with  inconceivable  eagerness,  some  bending  their 
knees  to  the  deck,  to  avoid  the  risk  of  losing  any  of  the  liquid  by  unsteady 
footing  ;  their  throats,  doubtless,  parched  to  the  utmost  with  crying  and  yell- 
ing through  the  night." 

On  the  12th  of  April,  when  the  Progresso  parted  company  with  the  Cleo- 
patra, there  were  397  negroes  on  board.  Of  these  only  222  were  landed  at 
the  Cape  on  the  22d  of  May;  no  fewer  than  175,  a  little  short  of  half,  having 
died.  Many  also  died  after  being  landed.  The  crew  escaped,  there  being 
no  court  empowered  to  try  them  at  the  Cape.  Abundantly  does  the  narra- 
tive of  Mr.  Hill  justify  the  bold  sentence  with  which  he  concludes — "While 
we  boast  that  the  name  of  Wilberforce,  and  the  genius  and  eloquence  which 
enabled  him  to  arouse  so  general  a  zeal  against  the  slave  trade  ;  while  others 
are  disputing  with  rim  the  claim  of  being  '  the  true  annihilator  of  the  slave 


368  ADVENTURES  IN  AFRICA. 

trade,'  that  trade,  so  far  from  being  annihilated,  is  at  this  very  hour  carried 
on  under  circumstances  of  greater  atrocity  than  were  known  in  his  time,  and 
'.he  blood  of  the  poor  victims  calls  more  loudly  on  us  as  the  actual,  though 
mintentional,  aggravators  of  their  miseries." 

"  The  injuries  inflicted  by  the  abolition  project  may  be  briefly  summed  up: 
The  number  of  negroes  imported  into  America  is  twice  as  great  as  it  was, 
while  the  mortality  in  the  traffic  has  increased  from  about  fifteen  to  thirty- 
three  per  cent.  The  evil,  in  short,  has  been  doubled  in  extent,  and  doubled 
in  intensity  ;  so  that  if  we  take  a  given  increase  in  extent  to  be  of  the  same 
value  as  the  same  numerical  increase  of  intensity,  we  may  say  that  the  issue 
of  the  struggle  which  was  meant  to  abolish  the  evil  of  the  slave  trade,  has 
been  to  quadruple  thai  wil." 


ADVENTURES   AND   EXPLORATIONS 


IN     THE 


POLAK    REGIONS. 


MIDNIGHT    IN   THE    ARCTIC 


CHAPTER   I, 


Aspect  of  the  Polar  Eegions— Natural  Phenomena— Arctic  Ocean— Early  Explorations- 
Fate  of  Sir  Hugh  "Willoughby— Davis's  Discoveries— Misfortunes  of  Barentz— Hudson's 
Discoveries — Hearne — Capt  Cook — Parry  and  Franklin's  Voyages — Franklin's  Overland 
Journey— Intense  Sufferings— Parry's  third  Voyage— Buchan— Scoresby— Boss—  Back— 
Dease  and  Simpson— Eussian  Explorations—Behring's  Discoveries— Wranyell— Franklin's 
Last  Expedition. 

The  varied  physical  aspect  of  the  globe  offers  as  much  to  charm  or  awe 
the  eye  of  man  as  to  minister  to  his  comfort  and  well-being.  From  the  glow- 
ing heat  and  gorgeous  vegetation  of  the  torrid  zone,  we  move  through  all 
gradations  of  climate  and  feature  to  the  frigid  regions  of  either  pole,  where 
perpetual  ice  and  a  depressed  temperature  present  an  extraordinary  contrast 
to  the  lands  of  the  sun  :  from  intensest  heat  we  pass  to  intensest  cold  ;  from 
the  sandy  deserts  of  the  south,  to  the  icy  deserts  of  the  north.  Yet  there  is 
24  369 


370  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

a»  much  in  the  frozen  zone  to  impress  and  elevate  the  mind  of  the  beholder, 
as  in  the  countries  where  nature  displays  herself  in  rich  and  exuberant  love- 
liness. Beyond  the  seventieth  degree  of  latitude,  not  a  tree  meets  the  eye, 
wearied  with  the  white  waste  of  snow:  forests,  woods,  even  shrubs,  have  dis- 
appeared, and  given  place  to  a  few  lichens  and  creeping  wood  plants  which 
scantily  clothe  the  indurated  soil.  Still,  in  the  farthest  north,  nature  claims 
her  birthright  of  beauty;  and  in  the  brief  and  rapid  summer  she  brings  forth 
numerous  flowers  and  grasses  to  bloom  for  a  few  days,  until  again  blasted  by 
the  swiftly-recurring  winter. 

In  these  regions  certain  mysterious  phenomena  exhibit  their  most  powerful 
effects  :  here  is  the  point  of  attraction  of  the  compass  needle  ;  and  here  the 
dipping  needle,  which  lies  horizontal  at  the  equator,  points  straight  down- 
ward. Slowly,  in  its  cycle  of  nearly  two  thousand  years,  this  center  or  po!e 
of  magnetic  attraction  revolves  in  obedience  to  laws  as  yet  unknown.  Two 
degrees  farther  toward  the  north  is  situated  the  pole  of  cold — a  mystery,  like 
the  former,  to  science,  but  equally  inciting  to  curiosity.  If  induction  may  be 
trusted,  the  pole  of  the  earth  is  less  cold  than  the  latitudes  15°  below  it. 

Round  the  shores  and  seas  of  the  arctic  regions  ice  ever  accumulates  :  a 
circle  of  two  thousand  miles  diameter  is  occupied  by  frozen  fields  and  floes 
of  vast  extent,  or  piled  high  with  hugest  forms,  awful  yet  fantastic  as  a 
dreamer's  fancy.     Mountain  masses — 

"Whose  blocks  of  sapphire  seem,  to  mortal  eye, 
Hewn  from  cerulean  quarries  in  the  sky, 
"With  glacier  battlements  that  crowd  the  spheres, 
The  slow  creation  of  six  thousand  years, 
Amidst  immensity  they  tower  sublime, 
Winter's  eternal  palace,  built  by  Time." 

Here  the  months  are  divided  into  long  periods  of  daylight  and  darkness  :  for 
many  weeks  the  sun  sinks  not  below  the  horizon  ;  for  three  dreary  months 
he  appears  not  above  it — 

"And  morning  comes,  but  comes  not  clad  in  light ; 
Uprisen  day  is  but  a  paler  night." 

But,  in  the  absence  of  the  great  luminary,  the  vivid  coruscations  of  the  au- 
rora borealis  illuminate  the  wintery  landscape,  streaming  across  the  skies  in 
broad  sheets  of  light,  flashing  in  multicolored  rays,  or  quivering  in  faint  and 
feathery  scintillations — a  light  that  takes  away  the  irksomeness  of  gloom,  and 
makes  the  long  night  wondrous. 

When  we  contemplate  the  aspect  of  the  northern  world, — bleak,  naked, 
dreary,  beaten  by  the  raging  tempest,  and  subject  to  an  extremity  of  cold 
which,  with  us,  is  fatal  to  life  and  to  all  by  which  life  is  supported, — we  natu- 
rally imagine  that  animal  nature  must  exist  there  on  a  small  scale,  and  under 
diminutive  forms.  It  might  be  expected,  that  only  a  few  dwarf  and  stunted 
species  would  be  scattered  along  its  melancholy  shores,  and  that  life,  as  it 
attempted  to  penetrate  these  realms  of  desolation,  would  grow  faint  and  expire. 
But  the  mighty  Architect  of  nature,  whose  ways  and  power  far  surpass 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  371 

human  comprehension,  makes  here  a  full  display  of  his  inexhaustible  resources. 
He  has  filled  these  naked  rocks  and  wintery  seas  with  a  swarming  profusion 
of  life,  such  as  he  scarcely  brings  forth  under  the  most  genial  glow  of  tropi- 
cal suns.  He  has  stored  them  with  the  mightiest  of  living  beings,  compared 
to  whose  enormous  bulk  the  elephant  and  hippopotamus,  which  rear  their 
immense  shapes  amid  the  marshy  plains  of  the  tropics,  seem  almost  diminu- 
tive. Even  the  smaller  species,  as  that  of  the  herring,  issue  forth  from  the 
frozen  depths  of  the  Arctic  zone  in  shoals  which  astonish  by  their  immensity. 
Moving  in  close  and  countless  columns,  they  fill  all  the  southern  seas,  and 
minister  food  to  nations.  The  air,  too,  is  darkened  by  innumerable  flocks  of 
sea-fowl,  while,  even  upon  the  frozen  surface  of  the  land,  animals  of  peculiar 
structure  find  food  suited  to  their  wants. 

By  what  means,  or  by  what  resources,  does  Nature  support,  amid  the 
frozen  world,  this  immensity  of  life  ?  Wonderful  as  are  her  operations,  they 
are  always  arranged  agreeably  to  the  general  laws  imposed  upon  the  uni- 
verse ;  and  we  shall  find,  in  the  structure  and  condition  of  the  animal  world, 
the  powers  by  which  it  is  enabled  to  defy  this  frightful  rigor  of  the  elements. 
Some  of  the  provisions  by  which  animal  frames  are  adapted  to  the  varying 
extremes  of  the  climate  have  almost  the  appearance  of  direct  interposition ; 
yet  a  more  profound  investigation  always  discovers  the  causes  of  them  to  be 
deeply  lodged  in  their  physical  organization. 

It  is  on  the  seas  and  shores  of  the  Arctic  zone  that  we  chiefly  observe  this 
boundless  profusion  of  life  ;  and  in  conformity  with  that  arrangement  by 
which  Nature  supports  the  inhabitants  of  the  seas,  by  making  them  the  food 
of  each  other,  so  here  also  we  observe  a  continued  gradation  of  animals,  rising 
one  above  another,  the  higher  preying  upon  the  lower,  till  food  is  at  last  found 
for  those  of  largest  bulk  and  most  devouring  appetite. 

The  basis  of  subsistence  for  the  numerous  tribes  of  the  Arctic  world  is 
found  in  the  genus  medusa,  which  the  sailors  graphically  describe  as  sea- 
blubber.  The  medusa  is  a  soft,  elastic,  gelatinous  substance,  specimens  of 
which  may  be  seen  lying  on  our  own  shores,  exhibiting  no  signs  of  life  ex- 
cept that  of  shrinking  when  touched.  Beyond  the  Arctic  circle  it  increases 
in  an  extraordinary  degree,  and  is  eagerly  devoured  by  the  finny  tribes  of  all 
shapes  and  sizes.  By  far  the  most  numerous,  however,  of  the  medusan  races 
are  of  dimensions  too  small  to  be  discerned  without  the  aid  of  the  microscope, 
— the  application  of  which  instrument  shows  them  to  be  the  cause  of  a  pecu- 
liar color,  which  tinges  a  great  extent  of  the  Greenland  Sea.  This  color  is 
olive-green,  and  the  water  is  dark  and  opaque  compared  to  that  which  bears 
the  common  cerulean  hue.  These  olive  waters  occupy  about  a  fourth  of  the 
Greenland  Sea,  or  above  twenty  thousand  square  miles  ;  and  hence  the 
number  of  medusan  animalcules  which  they  contain  is  far  beyond  calcula- 
tion. Mr.  Scoresby  estimates  that  two  square  miles  contain  23,888,000,000,- 
000;  and  as  this  number  is  beyond  the  range  of  human  words  and  conceptions, 
he  illustrates  it  by  observing,  that  80,000  persons  would  have  been  employed 
since  the  creation  in  counting  it.  This  green  sea  may  be  considered  as  the 
polar  pasture-ground,  where  whales  are  always  seen  in  the  greatest  numbers. 
These  prodigious  animals  cannot  derive  any  direct  subsistence  from  such 


372  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

small  invisible  particles ;  but  these  form  the  food  of  other  minute  creatures, 
which  then  support  others,  till  at  length  animals  are  produced  of  such  size  as 
to  afford  a  morsel  for  their  mighty  devourers.  The  genus  cancer,  larger  in 
size  than  the  medusa,  appears  to  rank  second  in  number  and  importance.  It 
presents  itself  under  the  various  species  of  the  crab,  and,  above  all,  of  the 
shrimp,  whose  multitudes  rival  those  of  the  medusa,  and  which  in  all  quar- 
ters feed  and  are  fed  upon. 

"  There  is,"  as  observed  by  Lieutenant- Colonel  Sabine,  W  a  striking  resem- 
blance in  the  configuration  of  the  northern  coasts  of  the  continents  of  Asia 
and  America  for  several  hundred  miles  on  either  side  of  Behring's  Strait ; 
the  general  direction  of  the  coast  is  the  same  in  both  continents,  the  latitude 
is  nearly  the  same,  and  each  has  its  attendant  group  of  islands  to  the  north 
— the  Asiatic  continent,  those  usually  known  as  the  New  Siberian  Islands — 
and  the  American,  those  called  by  Sir  Edward  Parry,  the  North  Georgian 
Group,  and  since  fitly  named,  from  their  discoverer,  the  Parry  Islands.  The 
resemblance  includes  the  islands  also,  both  in  general  character  and  latitude." 

With  respect  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  a  late  writer  explains — "We  may  view 
this  great  polar  sea  as  inclosed  within  a  circle  whose  diameter  is  40°,  or  2,400 
geographical  miles,  and  circumference  7,200  miles.  On  the  Asiatic  side  of 
this  sea  are  Nova  Zembla  and  the  New  Siberian  Islands,  each  extending  to 
about  the  76th  degree  of  latitude.  On  the  European  and  American  sides 
are  Spitzbergen,  extending  to  about  80°,  and  a  part  of  Old  Greenland,  whose 
northern  extremity  is  yet  unknown.  Facing  America  is  the  large  island 
washed  by  Regent's  Inlet,  Parry's  or  Melville's  Islands,  with  some  others,  in 
latitude  70°  to  76°,  and  beyond  these  nothing  is  known  of  any  other  land  or 
islands  ;  and  if  we  may  form  an  opinion,  by  inspecting  the  general  chart  ot 
the  earth,  it  would  be,  that  no  islands  exist  which  could  in  any  shape  obstruct 
navigation."  It  is  to  these  regions,  and  the  labors  of  which  they  have  been 
the  scene,  that  we  have  for  a  short  period  to  direct  our  attention. 

The  history  of  Arctic  explorations  properly  begins  at  a  period  earlier  by 
several  centuries  than  is  generally  believed.  Careful  researches  promoted 
and  carried  on  of  late  years  by  the  Society  of  Northern  Antiquaries  of  Copen- 
hagen, and  others  interested  in  the  subject,  have  established  the  fact,  that 
Newfoundland,  Greenland,  and  several  parts  of  the  American  coast,  were 
visited  by  the  Scandinavians — the  Northmen  and  Sea-Kings  of  old — in  the 
ninth  and  tenth  centuries.  While  Alfred  was  engaged  in  expelling  the  Danes 
from  England,  and  bestowing  the  rudiments  of  civilization  on  his  country,  and 
Charles  the  Bald  was  defending  his  kingdom  against  a  host  of  competitors,  the 
daring  sea-rovers  were  forming  settlements  in  Iceland.  One  hundred  and 
twenty-five  years  later,  a.  d.  1000,  Leif  Erickson  led  the  way  to  the  west- 
ward, and  landed  on  the  shores  of  New  England,  between  Boston  and  New 
York,  naming  the  country  Vinland,  from  the  wild  vines  which  grew  in  the 
woods.  These  adventurers  made  their  way  also  to  a  higher  northern  latitude, 
and  set  up  stones,  carved  with  Runic  inscriptions,  with  the  date  1135,  on 
Women's  Islands — latitude  72°  55' — Baffin's  Bay,  where  they  were  discov- 
ered in  1824.  The  colonists  on  the  eastern  coast  of  this  great  bay  made  regu- 
lar trips  to  Lancaster  Sound,  and  part  of  Barrow's  Strait,  in  pursuit  of  fish. 


y&sb  081  jW 


MAP     OF    THE     ARCTIC     REGION  8. 


MAP,    SnOWINO    THE    ROUTE     OF    THE    GRINNELL     EXPEDITION. 

The  solid  black  line  shows  the  outward  course  of  the  vessels  ;  the  dotted  line  denotes 
the  drift  of  the  vessels,  their  baffled  attempt  to  reach  Lancaster  Sound  a  second  time,  and 
their  return  home.  „7o 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  375 

more  than  six  centuries  before  the  adventurous  voyage  of  Parry,"  and  carried 
on  a  trade  with  Markland,  as  Nova  Scotia  was  then  called.  Their  numbers 
must  have  been  considerable,  for,  in  Greenland,  there  were  three  hundred 
homesteads,  or  villages,  and  twenty  churches  and  convents.  They  kept  up 
intercourse  with  Europe  until  1406,  when  it  was  interrupted  by  extraordinary 
accumulations  of  ice  on  their  coasts  ;  and  though  the  Danish  government  has 
made  repeated  attempts  to  discover  their  fate,  it  still  remains  in  doubt ;  the 
supposition  is  that  all  perished  from  privation  or  violence  of  the  natives. 
Spitzbergen,  too,  contained  numerous  colonists.  Graves  are  frequently  met 
with  on  its  shores  ;  in  one  place  Captain  Buchan  saw  several  thousands,  the 
corpses  in  some  of  them  as  fresh  as  when  first  interred,  preserved  by  the 
rigor  of  the  climate. 

These  early  explorers  were  unable  to  take  full  advantage  of  their  American 
discoveries  ;  this  was  reserved  for  a  later  period.  "  Intervening,"  observes 
Humboldt,  "  between  two  different  stages  of  civilization,  the  fifteenth  century 
forms  a  transition  epoch,  belonging  at  once  to  the  middle  ages,  and  to  the 
commencement  of  modern  times.  It  is  the  epoch  of  the  greatest  discoveries 
in  geographical  space,  comprising  almost  all  degrees  of  latitude,  and  almost 
every  gradation  of  elevation  of  the  earth's  surface.  To  the  inhabitants  of 
Europe,  it  doubled  the  works  of  creation,  while,  at  the  same  time,  it  offered 
to  the  intellect  new  and  powerful  incitements  to  the  improvement  of  the  na- 
tural  sciences   in   their  physical    and  mathematical  departments." 

As  we  approach  the  period  here  referred  to,  we  find  a  new  spirit  at  work ; 
no  longer  the  boisterous  adventuresomeness  of  the  Northmen,  but  an  earnest 
spirit  of  enterprise.  In  1380,  the  Zeni,  two  Venetian  navigators,  voyaged 
into  the  north,  ignorant  of  the  fact,  that  the  Scandinavians  had  preceded 
them  by  three  centuries,  and  brought  home  accounts  of  the  countries  they 
had  seen.  Within  eighty  years  after  this  event,  the  gulf  and  river  of  St.  Law- 
rence and  Newfoundland,  were  visited  by  the  three  Coterels  :  the  father  returned 
to  Portugal,  but  his  two  sons  perished,  while  endeavoring  to  extend  his  dis- 
coveries. In  1497,  during  the  reign  of  Henry  VII,  British  enterprise  was 
first  directed  to  a  region  in  which  it  has  been  subsequently  developed  to  a 
degree  without  example ;  and  Cabot,  or  Cabota,  the  younger,  landed  at  La- 
brador eighteen  months  before  Columbus  saw  the  mainland  of  tropical 
America.  He  contemplated,  also,  a  voyage  to  the  pole,  and  sailed  up  to  67-J0 
of  north  latitude.  It  was  thought  scarcely  possible  that  the  newly-discovered 
continent  stretched  so  far  from  north  to  south  without  a  single  opening  to  the 
westward,  and  the  search  for  this  became  the  prime  object  with  mercantile 
adventurers,  who  hoped  to  find  a  way  to  the  rich  and  gorgeous  countries 
lying  beyond.  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby  was  sent  out  by  the  Muscovy  Company 
with  two  ships  to  find  a  north-east  passage  to  '  Kathay  and  India ;'  and 
pushed  his  way  as  far  as  Nova  Zembla,  from  whence,  being  stopped  by  ice 
he  returned  to  a  lower  latitude,  and  in  September,  1553,  put  in  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Arzina  in  Lapland.  A  melancholy  interest  attended  this  event, 
little  anticipated  by  the  unfortunate  leader  when  he  wrote  in  his  journal — 
1  Thus  remaining  in  this  haven  the  space  of  a  weeke,  seeing  the  yeare 
farre   spent,    and   also  very  evill  wether — as    frost,  snowe,    and    haile.   as 


376  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

though  it  had  beene  the  deepe  of  winter,  wee  thought   it  best   to  winter 
there.' 

The  darkest  gloom  involves  the  fate  of  this  first  English  expedition.  Nei- 
ther the  commander,  nor  any  of  his  brave  companions  ever  returned  to  their 
native  shores.  After  long  suspense  and  anxiety,  tidings  reached  England, 
that  some  Russian  sailors,  as  they  wandered  along  those  dreary  boundaries, 
had  been  astonished  by  the  view  of  two  large  ships,  which  they  entered,  and 
found  the  gallant  crews  all  lifeless.  There  was  only  the  journal  of  the  voy- 
age, with  a  note  written  in  January,  showing,  that,  at  that  date,  the  crews 
were  still  alive.  What  was  the  immediate  cause  of  a  catastrophe  so  dismal 
and  so  complete,  whether  the  extremity  of  cold,  famine,  or  disease,  or  whether 
all  these  ills,  united  at  once,  assailed  them,  can  now  only  be  matter  of  sad 
conjecture.     Thomson  thus  pathetically  laments  their  fate  : — 

Miserable  they, 
Who  here  entangled  In  the  gathering  ice 
Take  their  last  look  of  the  descending  sun, 
While  full  of  death,  and  fierce  with  tenfold  frost, 
The  long,  long  night,  incumbent,  o'er  their  heads, 
Falls  horrible. 

The  other  vessel,  commanded  by  Richard  Chancellor,  reached  Archangel, 
and  opened  the  way  for  commercial  intercourse  with  Russia. 

Next  in  importance  are  the  three  voyages  by  Frobisher,  in  1576-78.  He 
discovered  the  entrance  to  Hudson's  Strait,  and  explored  that  still  known  as 
Frobisher's  ;  but  failed  in  penetrating  to  the  westward.  Great  hopes  were 
excited  by  some  lumps  of  yellow  glistening  ore  which  he  brought  home,  and 
in  his  later  voyages  gold-mines  were  not  less  to  be  searched  for  than  the 
north-west  passage.  The  study  of  natural  phenomena  was  not,  however, 
altogether  lost  sight  of,  as  appears  by  a  passage  from  the  instructions  issued 
under  the  authority  of  Elizabeth  for  the  gallant  seaman's  guidance.  '  Yf  yt 
be  possible,'  so  runs  the  official  document,  'you  shall  leave  some  persons  to 
winter  in  the  straight,  giving  them  instructions  how  they  may  observe  the 
nature  of  the  ayre  and  state  of  the  countrie,  and  what  tyme  of  the  yeare  the 
straight  is  most  free  from  yce  ;  with  who  you  shall  leave  a  sufficient  prepara- 
tion of  victualls  and  weapons,  and  also  a  pynnas,  with  a  carpenter,  and 
thyngs  necessarie,  so  well  as  maybe.'  Then  followed  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert's 
expedition  to  colonize  Newfoundland  ;  the  fate  of  this  '  devout  gentleman 
and  philosopher'  has  been  touchingly  narrated  by  a  transatlantic  poet — 

*  Eastward  from  Campobello 

Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  sailed  ; 
Three  days  or  more  he  seaward  bore, 

Then,  alas  !  the  land-wind  failed. 

Alas  !  the  land-wind  failed 

And  ice-cold  grew  the  night ; 
And  never  more,  on  sea  or  shore, 

Should  Sir  Humphrey  see  the  light. 
He  sat  upon  the  deck, 

The  Book  was  in  his  hand  ; 
"  Do  not  fear  f  Heaven  is  as  near," 

He  said.  "  by  water  as  by  land:" 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  377 

The  three  voyages  by  Davis,  in  1585-88,  enlarged  the  limits  of  research  ; 
by  the  discovery  of  the  strait  which  still  bears  his  name,  he  opened  the  way 
to  Baffin's  Bay  and  the  Polar  Sea;  he  also  surveyed  a  considerable  extent  of 
the  Greenland  coast.  Various  attempts  to  find  a  passage  were  also  made 
during  this  century  by  Spaniards,  French,  Danes,  and  Dutch  ;  those  of  the 
last-mentioned  nation  being  the  most  memorable.  To  avoid  the  risk  of  a  voy- 
age to  India  across  the  ocean,  over  which  Spain  claimed  the  supremacy,  they 
sought  for  a  shorter  passage  by  the  north-east. 

The  three  voyages  by  William  Barentz,  1594-96,  afford  striking  examples 
of  dangers  encountered,  and  manful  perseverance  in  struggling  against  them. 
He  made  his  way  to  the  sea  between  Spitzbergen  and  Nova  Zembla,  until,  to 
quote  the  narrative  of  the  third  voyage,  '  we  came  to  so  great  a  heape  of  ice, 
that  we  could  not  sayle  through  it.'  In  August  of  the  last  mentioned  year, 
the  vessel  was  embayed  by  an  unusual  drifting  of  the  ice,  which,  crushing 
around  them  with  a  violence  that '  made  all  the  haire  of  our  heads  to  rise  upright 
with  feare,'  forced  them  ■  in  great  cold,  povertie,  miserie,  and  griefe,  to  stay 
all  that  winter.'  They  exerted  themselves  to  the  utmost  to  avoid  so  terrible 
an  alternative  ;  but  on  the  1  lth  of  September,  as  is  related,  ■  we  saw  that  we 
could  not  get  out  of  the  ice,  but  rather  became  faster,  and  could  not  loose  our 
ship,  as  at  other  times  we  had  done,  as  also  that  it  began  to  be  winter,  we 
tooke  counsell  together  what  we  were  best  to  doe,  according  to  the  time,  that 
we  might  winter  there,  and  attend  such  adventure  as  God  would  send  us  ; 
and  after  we  had  debated  upon  the  matter  (to  keepe  and  defend  ourselves 
both  from  the  colde  and  wilde  beastes),  we  determined  to  build  a  house  upon 
the  land,  to  keepe  us  therein  as  well  as  wee  could,  and  so  to  commit  our- 
selves unto  the  tuition  of  God.'  While  casting  about  for  material  for  the  edifice, 
to  their  great  joy  they  discovered  a  quantity  of  drift  timber,  which  they  re 
garded  as  a  special  interposition  of  Providence  in  their  behalf,  and  '  were 
much  comforted,  being  in  good  hope  that  God  would  show  us  some  further 
favour ;  for  that  wood  served  us  not  only  to  build  our  house,  but  also  to 
burne,  and  serve  us  all  the  winter  long  ;  otherwise,  without  all  doubt,  we  had 
died  there  miserably  with  extreme  cold.' 

Parties  were  thereupon  set  to  work  to  build  the  house,  and  drag  their 
stores  from  the  ship  on  hand-sleds,  in  which  labors  they  were  grievously 
interrupted  by  bears  and  severity  of  the  weather  :  if  any  one  held  a  nail  be- 
tween his  lips,  the  skin  came  off  with  as  much  pain  on  taking  it  out  again  as 
though  the  iron  had  been  red-hot  ;  yet  notwithstanding  the  cold,  there  was 
open  sea  for  many  weeks  an  '  arrow-shot  beyond  their  ship.  The  dwelling, 
slow  in  progress,  was  finished  by  the  end  of  October,  and  thatched  with  sea- 
wrack,  the  more  effectually  to  close  the  chinks  in  the  roofs  and  walls,  and 
'  we  set  up  our  dyall,  and  made  the  clocke  strike.'  On  the  4th  November 
wee  saw  the  sun  no  more,  for  it  was  no  longer  above  the  horizon  ;  then  oui 
chirurgeon  made  a  bath  (to  bathe  us  in)  of  a  wine-pipe,  wherein  wee  entered 
one  after  the  other,  and  it  did  us  much  good,  and  was  a  great  meanes  of  our 
health.'  All  the  spare  clothing  was  distributed,  regulations  established  wit 
regard  to  diet,  and  duties  apportioned  ;  the  master  and  pilot  being  exempte 
from  cleaving  wood,  and  other  rude  labors.     Traps  were  set  to  catch  foxe 


378  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

for  food,  and  cheerfulness  was  as  much  as  possible  promoted;  but  at  times 
they  were  snowed  up,  and  could  not  open  their  door  for  many  days,  and  had 
no  light  but  that  of  their  fire  ;  they  were  tormented  with  smoke,  while  ice 
two  inches  thick  formed  in  their  sleeping-berths.  The  clock  stopped  with 
cold,  after  which  they  could  only  reckon  by  the  '  twelve-hour  glass.' 

The  misery  they  endured  may  be  judged  of  by  the  tone  of  some  of  the  en- 
tries in  their  journal  ;  which  suffering  was  but  too  frequent : — '  It  was  foule 
weather  againe,  with  an  easterly  wind  and  extreame  cold,  almost  not  to  bee 
endured  ;  whereupon  wee  lookt  pittifully  one  upon  the  other,  being  in  great 
feare  that  if  the  extreamitie  of  the  cold  grew  to  bee  more  and  more,  we 
should  all  dye  there  with  cold  ;  for  that  what  fire  soever  wee  made  it  would 
not  warme  us  ;  yea,  and  our  sacke,  which  is  so  hot,  was  frozen  very  hard,  so 
that  when  we  were  every  man  to  have  his  part,  we  were  forced  to  melt  it  in 
the  fire,  which  we  shared  every  second  day  about  halfe  a  pint  for  a  man, 
wherewith  we  were  forced  to  sustayne  ourselves  ;  and  at  other  times  wee 
dranke  water,  which  agreed  not  well  with  the  cold,  and  we  needed  not  to 
coole  it  with  snow  or  ice  ;  but  we  were  forced  to  melt  it  out  of  the  snow.' 
Sometimes,,  while  they  sat  at  the  fire,  ■  and  seemed  to  burne  on  the  fore-side, 
we  froze  behind  at  our  backes,  and  were  all  white  as  the  countreymen  use  to 
bee  when  they  come  in  at  the  gates  of  the  toune  in  Holland  with  their  sleds, 
and  have  gone  all  night.'  It  might  indeed  seem  that  no  room  remained  for 
hope  ;  yet  under  date  December  19  we  read,  *  wee  put  each  other  in  good 
comfort,  that  the  sunne  was  then  almost  halfe  over,  and  ready  to  come  to  us 
againe,  which  wee  sore  longed  for,  it  being  a  weary  time  for  us  to  bee  with- 
out the  sunne,  and  to  want  the  greatest  comfort  that  God  sendeth  unto  man 
here  upon  the  earth,  and  that  which  rejoyceth  every  living  thing.'  They 
kept  Twelfth-Night  also,  and  '  made  pancakes  with  oyle,  and  every  man  a 
white  bisket,  which  we  sopt  in  wine  :  and  so,  supposing  that  we  were  in  our 
own  countrey,  and  amongst  our  friends,  it  comforted  us  as  well  as  if  we  had 
made  a  great  banquet  in  our  owne  house  :  and  we  also  made  tickets,  and  our 
gunner  was  king  of  Nova  Zembla,  which  is  at  least  two  hundred  miles  long, 
and  lyeth  between  two  seas.' 

On  the  24th  of  January  they  saw  the  sun  again,  a  sight  that  reanimated 
their  sinking  spirits,  confined  as  they  had  been  with  no  light  but  that  of  the 
fire,  and  often  prevented  by  heavy  snow  from  going  out  of  their  dwelling 
for  many  days  in  succession.  Several  of  the  party  were  sick — one  died  :  a 
grave  seven  feet  deep  was  dug  in  the  snow  ;  and  then,  as  is  mournfully  re- 
corded, '  after  that  we  had  read  certain  chapters  and  sung  some  psalms,  we 
all  went  out  and  buried  the  man.'  As  the  days  lengthened,  they  set  about 
preparations  for  departure,  and  repaired  their  two  boats,  and  had  good  hope 
'  to  get  out  of  that  wilde,  desart,  irkesome,  fearfull,  and  cold  countrey.'  On 
the  13th  of  June  thG  survivors,  twelve  in  number,  left  the  desolate  shore 
after  a  stay  of  ten  months.  Barentz  and  two  others  were  so  worn  out  with 
disease,  that  they  died  soon  after,  amid  all  the  privations  of  exposure  in 
small  boats  in  an  ice-encumbered  sea.  The  remainder  struggled  onward, 
manfully  overcoming  the  perils  that  beset  them ;  and  in  September  reached 
the  coast  of  Lapland,  where  •  wee  saw  some  trees  on  the  river  side,  which 


3  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  379 

comforted  us,  and  made  us  glad,  as  if  wee  had  then  come  into  a  new  world  ; 
for  in  all  the  time  that  wee  had  been  out  wee  had  not  seene  any  trees.'  On 
the  11th  of  the  same  month,  after  a  voyage  of  1143  miles,  these  brave- 
hearted  men  set  up  their  boats  in  the  '  merchants'  house  at  Coola,  as  a  sign 
and  token  of  their  deliverance ;'  and  embarking  on  board  a  Dutch  ship,  in 
the  course  of  a  few  weeks  once  more  set  foot  in  their  native  country. 

Henry  Hudson,  '  the  North  Seas'  great  Columbus,'  comes  next  in  the  list 
of  explorers.  In  his  first  voyage,  with  a  crew  of  only  ten  men  and  a  boy 
(1607),  he  penetrated  as  far  as  82°  of  north  latitude,  and  discovered  part 
of  the  eastern  coast  of  Greenland.  His  second  attempt  was  made  on  the 
track  of  Barentz,  but  with  no  better  success.  In  his  third  and  last  voyage 
in  1610,  he  passed  the  strait  which  now  bears  his  name,  and  entered  the 
great  inland  sea  known  as  Hudson's  Bay.  Concluding  that  this  led  to  the 
north-west  passage,  he  passed  the  winter  there,  with  the  intention  of  resum- 
ing operations  early  in  the  following  year  ;  but  in  the  spring  his  crew, 
wearied  with  hardship,  mutinied,  and  Hudson,  with  his  son  and  seven  others, 
was  turned  adrift  in  a  small  boat,  and  never  afterward  heard  of: 

*  Of  all  the  sea-shapes  death  has  worn,  may  mariners  never  know 
Such  fate  as  Hendrik  Hudson  found  in  the  labyrinths  of  snow.' 

We  are  told  in  the  history  of  the  voyage,  that  later  in  the  same  day  on 
which  the  fated  few  were  abandoned,  the  conspirators  saw  the  boat  again, 
when  i  they  let  fall  the  main-sayle,  and  out  with  their  top-oayles,  and  flye  as 
from  an  enemy.'  Continuing  thus  that  night  and  the  next  day,  '  they  saw 
.not  the  shallop,  nor  ever  after.'  But  punishment  overtook  the  perpetrators 
of  this  foul  crime  :  four  were  killed  in  a  skirmish  with  the  Esquimaux  near 
Cape  Digges  ;  and  another  died  on  the  passage  to  Ireland,  where  the  survi- 
vors arrived  in  a  famishing  condition,  having  been  reduced  to  such  extremi- 
ties for  want  of  food  as  to  devour  their  candles.  Strange  to  relate,  no  attempt 
was  made  to  bring  the  mutineers  to  trial ;  some  of  them,  indeed,  were  after-, 
ward  employed  in  further  explorations. 

Great  hopes  were  entertained  that  the  much-desired  passage  would  be 
found  leading  out  of  Hudson's  Bay ;  and  a  good  deal  of  controversy  on  the 
question  arose  from  time  to  time  among  contending  voyagers  and  their 
abettors. 

Between  this  period  and  1616,  those  arms  of  the  sea  known  as  Sir  Thomas 
Rowe's  Welcome  and  Fox  Channel  were  discovered ;  and  in  the  year  just 
mentioned,  Baffin  sailed  into  and  explored  the  vast  bay,  800  miles  long,  and 
300  wide,  named  after  him.  For  a  long  time  his  report  of  its  great  length 
was  disbelieved,  but  later  researches  have  confirmed  the  accuracy  of  his 
statements ;  even  the  latitudes  laid  down  by  him  are  almost  identical  with 
those  recently  determined  with  all  the  advantage  of  superior  instruments. 
Among  other  openings,  Baffin  saw  Lancaster  Sound,  and  had  he  explored  it, 
Parry's  discoveries  would  have  been  anticipated  by  two  hundred  years,  as 
they  had  been  to  some  extent  by  the  long-forgotten  Northmen.  The  opinion, 
I  owever,  at  that  time,  and  indeed  until  within  the  past  thirtv  years  was,  that 
no  practicable  opening  to  the  Polar  Sea  existed  except  that  at  Behring'? 


380  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

Strait.  From  this  period  to  about  the  middle  of  last  century,  the  outlets  to 
the  west  of  Hudson's  Bay  were  the  points  to  which  effort  was  directed  ;  and 
truly  may  it  be  said  that  these  earlier  navigators  left  very  little  for  those  who 
came  later.  In  small  vessels,  varying  from  ten  to  fifty  tons  burthen,  they 
accomplished  more  than  has  since  been  effected  by  lavishly-equipped 
expeditions. 

In  1743  parliament  offered  a  reward  of  £20,000  to  any  one  who  should  sail 
to  the  north-west  by  way  of  Hudson's  Strait,  which  passage,  it  was  declared 
would  be  'of  great  benefit  and  advantage  to  the  kingdom.'  Between  1769-72, 
Mr.  Hearne  undertook  three  overland  journeys  across  the  territories  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea.  He  failed  in  the 
first  two  attempts  ;  in  the  third  he  succeeded  in  reaching  a  large  and  rapid 
river — the  Coppermine — and  followed  it  down  nearly  to  its  mouth,  but,  as 
*here  is  reason  to  believe,  without  actually  viewing  the  sea.  The  proof  of 
the  existence  of  the  river  was  the  most  important  result  of  Mr.  Hearne's 
labors ;  for  such  scientific  observations  as  he  attempted  are  loose  and 
unsatisfactory. 

In  the  following  year  (1773),  in  consequence  of  communications  made  to 
the  Royal  Society  on  the  possibility  of  reaching  the  North  Pole,  Captain 
Phipps  was  sent  out  with  two  vessels  to  effect  this  interesting  object.  He 
coasted  the  eastern  shore  of  Spitzbergen  to  80°  48'  of  latitude,  and  was 
there  stopped  by  the  ice,  and  compelled  to  return.  In  1776  Cook  sailed  on 
the  fatal  expedition  which  cost  England  her  famous  navigator,  with  instruc- 
tions to  attempt  the  passage  of  the  Icy  Sea  from  Behring's  Strait  to 
Baffin's  Bay.  The  clause  of  the  act  above  referred  to,  wherein  Hudson's 
Strait  was  exclusively  specified,  was  altered  to  include  '  any  northern  pas- 
sage' for  ships ;  and  £5000  was  further  voted  to  any  one  who  should  get 
within  one  degree  of  the  pole.  Cook,  with  all  his  perseverance,  could  not 
penetrate  beyond  Icy  Cape,  latitude  70°  45',  where  he  found  the  ice  stretch- 
ing in  a  compact  mass  across  to  the  opposite  continent,  which  he  also  visited, 
sailing  as  far  as  Cape  North  on  the  coast  of  Asia.  It  would  appear  that 
expectations  prevailed  of  the  enterprising  mariner's  success,  for  a  vessel  was 
sent  to  Baffin's  Bay  to  wait  for  him,  in  1777,  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Pickers- 
gill.  One  other  journey  within  this  century  remains  to  be  noticed — that  by 
Mackenzie,  under  sanction  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  with  objects 
similar  to  those  of  Hearne.  In  1789,  he  left  Fort  Chipewyan,  crossed  Slave 
Lake,  and  descended  the  Mackenzie  River,  a  stream  of  much  greater  magni- 
tude than  the  Coppermine,  to  an  island  where  the  tide  rose  and  fell.  But, 
as  in  the  case  of  his  predecessor,  we  have  no  certainty  that  he  reached  the 
ocean.  Rivers,  however,  play  an  important  part  in  Arctic  discovery  ;  and  it 
as  something  gained  to  know  that  the  sea  could  be  reached  by  their  means. 
We  may  here  observe  once  for  all,  that  these  land  expeditions,  whose  prime 
object  has  been  to  determine  the  northern  coast-line  of  America,  are  not  to 
be  confounded  with  the  attempts  to  discover  the  north-west  passage. 

The  result  of  these  discouragements  was  a  cessation  of  naval  researches, 
which  continued  for  many  years  ;  but  at  length  a  change  took  place,  as 
sudden  and  inexplicable  as  the  acccumulation  of  ice  from  centuries  before 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  381 

which  cut  off  the  Danish  colonies  in  Greenland  from  communication  with  the 
mother  country.  In  1816-17  the  Greenland  whalers  reported  the  sea  to  be 
clearer  of  ice  than  at  any  former  time  within  their  knowledge.  This  fact 
engaged  the  attention  of  the  Admiralty ;  and  the  Council  of  the  Royal 
Society  were  consulted  as  to  the  prospects  of  renewed  operations  in  the 
Arctic  regions.  Their  reply  was  favorable;  and  in  1818  two  expeditions 
were  fitted  out  —  the  one  to  discover  the  north-west  passage,  the  other  to 
reach  the  pole.  Captain  (now  Sir  John)  Ross  and  Lieutenant  (now  Sir  Ed- 
ward) Parry,  in  the  vessels  Isabella  and  Alexander,  were  intrusted  with  the 
former  of  these  objects.  They  were  especially  charged  to  examine  the  great 
openings  described  by  Baffin,  as  existing  at  the  head  of  the  vast  bay  which 
he  so  diligently  explored ;  and  in  carrying  out  these  instructions,  the  com- 
manders found  full  reason  to  applaud  the  care  and  perseverance  of  the  able 
navigator  who  had  preceded  them  by  two  hundred  years.  It  must  be  re- 
membered that  we  are  now  treating  of  a  period  when  science  put  forward  its 
imperative  claims,  and  when,  as  at  present,  something  more  was  required  than 
a  meager  chart  of  a  previously-unexplored  coast,  and  graphic  accounts  of 
new  countries  and  their  inhabitants.  Astronomy,  geology,  meteorology, 
magnetism,  natural  history,  were  all  clamorous  for  new  facts,  or  for  satisfac- 
tory tests  of  those  already  known.  For  the  same  reason  it  is  that  of  late 
years,  exploring  expeditions  have  been  more  interesting  to  the  philosopher 
than  to  the  general  public.  Lord  Anson,  returning  from  the  southern  seas 
with  wagon-loads  of  Spanish  dollars  and  doubloons,  would  be  hailed  witk 
popular  acclaim  ;  while  Sir  James  Ross  arriving  from  the  Antarctic  Ocean 
with  materials  for  accurate  magnetic  charts,  and  records  of  soundings,  deep 
as  Mont  Blanc's  altitude,  is  the  hero  of  the  scientific  world. 

The  open  state  of  the  sea  greatly  facilitated  the  purposes  of  the  expedi 
tion.     In    August  the  ships  were    sailing  up  Lancaster  Sound,  with  everj 
prospect  of  an  easy  passage  to  the  westward  ;  when  the  commander,  fancy 
ing  that  he  saw  a  range  of  mountains  barring  all  further  progress  in  the 
distance,  hesitated    to   advance,  and    finally,  throwing  away  the    favorable 
pportunity,  returned  with  his  consort  to  England. 

The  Dorothea  and  Trent,  commanded  by  Captain  Buchan  and  Lieutenant 
(now  Sir  John)  Franklin,  comprised  the  expedition  destined  for  the  pole. 
Captain  Beechey,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  an  interesting  account  of  the 
voyage,  observes :  '  The  peculiarity  of  the'  proposed  route  afforded  oppor- 
tunities of  making  some  useful  experiments  on  the  elliptical  figure  of  the 
earth  ;  on  magnetic  phenomena  ;  on  the  refraction  of  the  atmosphere  in  high 
latitudes  in  ordinary  circumstances,  and  over  extensive  masses  of  ice  ;  and 
on  the  temperature  and  specific  gravity  of  the  sea  at  the  surface,  and  at 
various  depths  ;  and  on  meteorological  and  other  interesting  phenomena.' 
The  vessels  sailed  in  April,  1818,  Magdalena  Bay  in  Spitzbergen  having  been 
appointed  as  a  rendezvous  in  case  of  separation.  For  a  time  they  made 
good  progress  to  the  northward,  keeping  near  the  shore.  At  length  a  furious 
gale  came  on,  with  all  the  snowy,  sleety  bitterness  of  the  north,  freezing 
upon  the  rigging,  and  encumbering  alike  the  movements  of  vessel  and  crew. 
The  Dorothea  was  only  saved  from  being  driven  on  shore  by  forcing  her  intt 


382  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

the  main  pack  of  ice,  which  afforded  shelter.  The  Trent,  although  in  less 
peril,  had  suffered  severely  in  the  storm  ;  and  reluctantly  the  grand  object — ■ 
pushing  northward — was  given  up  as  hopeless.  Lieutenants  Franklin  and 
Beechey,  proposed  to  renew  the  attempt  with  dogs,  sledges,  and  baidars — 
the  skin-boats  of  the  Esquimaux — appliances  which  experience  has  shown 
to  be  generally  the  most  serviceable  in  ice  traveling;  but  for  that  time  nothing 
came  of  the  project. 

The  phenomena  peculiar  to  the  north,  Were  new  to  most  of  those  embarked 
on  this  expedition.  The  novelty  of  constant  daylight  for  several  weeks,  pre- 
vented some  of  the  party  from  taking  needful  rest,  until  necessity  compelled 
them  to  obey  the  natural  laws,  as  observed  by  other  animated  creatures  in 
those  regions.  Captain  Beechey  writes  :  ■  Very  few  of  us  had  ever  seen  the 
sun  at  midnight ;  and  this  night  happening  to  be  particularly  clear,  his  broad 
red  disc,  curiously  distorted  by  refraction,  and  sweeping  majestically  along 
the  northern  horizon,  was  an  object  of  imposing  grandeur,  which  riveted  to 
the  deck  some  of  our  crew  who  would  perhaps  have  beheld  with  indifference, 
the  less  imposing  effect  of  the  icebergs.  The  rays  were  too  oblique  to 
illumine  more  than  the  inequalities  of  the  floes,  and  falling  thus  partially  on 
the  grotesque  shapes  either  really  assumed  by  the  ice,  or  distorted  by  the 
unequal  refraction  of  the  atmosphere,  so  betrayed  the  imagination,  that  it 
required  no  great  exertion  of  fancy  to  trace,  in  various  directions,  architectural 
edifices,  grottoes,  and  caves  here  and  there  glittering  as  if  with  precious  metals.' 

Among  other  topics,  Captain  Beechey  enters  on  the  theory  of  iceberg  for- 
mation, and  contrasts  it  with  the  analogous  effects  in  an  Alpine  glacier.  The 
latter  slopes,  while  the  former  always  presents  a  perpendicular  face  to  the 
sea — a  result  produced  by  the  continual  increment  of  rain  and  snow,  and  the 
action  of  sea-water  below  in  preventing  expansion  of  the  base.  Icebergs,  in 
fact,  are  amongst  the  most  surprising  of  Arctic  phenomena.  On  one  occa- 
sion, the  discharge  of  a  musket  half  a  mile  distant  caused  a  huge  mass  to 
fall,  the  wave  from  which  heaved  a  boat  with  its  crew  ninety-six  feet  up  the 
beach,  and  there  left  it  stove  in.  Shortly  afterward,  the  two  lieutenants  were 
viewing  another  part  of  the  same  berg,  when  an  avalanche  of  ice  slid  from 
it  with  a  plunge  that  disturbed  the  ship  four  miles  away;  although  they, 
themselves,  by  keeping  the  boat's  head  to  the  swell,  rode  over  in  safety. 
On  this,  Captain  Beechey  remarks — 'The  piece  that  had  been  disengaged  at 
first  wholly  disappeared  under  water,  and  nothing  was  seen  but  a  violent 
boiling  of  the  sea,  and  a  shooting  up  of  clouds  of  spray,  like  that  which  oc 
curs  at  the  foot  of  a  great  cataract.  After  a  short  time  it  reappeared,  rais- 
ing its  head  full  a  hundred  feet  above  the  surface,  with  water  pouring  down 
from  all  parts  of  it ;  and  then,  laboring  as  if  doubtful  which  way  it  should 
fall,  it  rolled  over,  and  after  rocking  about  some  minutes,  at  length  became 
settled.  We  now  approached  it,  and  found  it  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
circumference,  and  sixty  feet  out  of  the  water.  Knowing  its  specific  gravity, 
and  making  a  fair  allowance  for  its  inequalities,  we  computed  its  weight  at 
421,660  tons.  A  stream  of  salt  water  was  still  pouring  down  its  sides,  and 
there  was  a  continual  cracking  noise,  as  loud  as  that  of  a  cart-whip,  occa 
sioned,  I  suppose,  by  the  escape  of  fixed  air.' 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  383 

The  failure  in  the  chief  object  of  these  two  expeditions,  excited  feelings 
which  could  only  be  satisfied  by  renewed  exertions.  The  mountains  said  tc 
exist  at  the  bottom  of  Lancaster  Sound  were  affirmed,  by  some  who  had  borne 
part  in  the  abortive  voyage,  to  be  ocular  deception.  The  question  was  soon 
put  to  the  proof.  Two  ships,  the  Hecla  and  Griper,  commanded  by  Captain 
Parry,  sailed  to  explore  Lancaster  Sound  on  the  4th  of  May,  1819.  Every 
effort  was  made  to  arrive  on  the  scene  of  operation  at  the  earliest  possible 
period,  and  as  the  shortest  route,  the  ships  were  forced  into  the  '  Middle  Ice,' 
in  Baffin's  Bay,  in  the  middle  of  July.  This  collection  of  ice  is  as  striking  a 
phenomenon  in  this  part  of  the  sea,  as  are  the  great  banks  of  weed,  Fucus 
nutans,  which  float  with  little  or  no  change  of  place  in  the  Atlantic,  off  the 
Azores,  and  the  Bahamas.  As  its  name  indicates,  it  occupies  a  position  in 
the  middle  of  the  bay,  leaving  a  narrow  channel  on  the  eastern  side,  more  or 
less  encumbered  with  drift-ice,  while  on  the  western  side,  the  sea  is  generally 
unobstructed.  The  local  position  of  this  body  of  ice  is  supposed  to  be  due 
to  the  action  of  conflicting  currents,  which  retain  it  pretty  nearly  in  one  spot. 
The  usual  route  round  its  northern  extremity,  followed  by  whaling  ships, 
doubles  the  length  of  a  voyage,  and  whenever  possible,  they  endeavor  to 
cross  the  pack  in  a  lower  latitude.  This  was  what  Parry  did.  By  dint  of 
sawing,  heaving,  and  sailing  at  the  rate  of  about  twelve  miles  a  day,  he 
forced  his  way  through  the  barrier,  more  than  eighty  miles  in  width,  in  seven 
days.  A  clear  sea  awaited  him  on  the  western  side  ;  and  by  the  end  of  July 
he  was  in  the  entrance  of  Lancaster  Sound,  waiting  with  anxiety  and  impa- 
tience for  an  easterly  breeze.  It  came  at  last  ;  both  vessels  crowded  sail  ; 
and  as  Captain  Parry  relates — ?  It  is  more  easy  to  imagine  than  to  describe 
the  almost  breathless  anxiety  which  was  now  visible  in  every  countenance, 
while,  as  the  breeze  increased  to  a  fresh  gale,  we  ran  quickly  up  the  Sound. 
The  mast-heads  were  crowded  by  the  officers  and  men  during  the  whole 
afternoon  ;  and  an  unconcerned  observer,  if  any  could  have  been  unconcerned 
on  such  an  occasion,  would  have  been  amused  by  the  eagerness  with  which 
the  various  reports  from  the  crow's  nest  were  received — all,  however,  hither- 
to, favorable  to  our  most  sanguine  hopes.'  The  question  as  to  a  passage  was 
soon  settled.  '  We  were,'  pursues  the  narrative,  *  by  midnight  in  a  great 
measure  relieved  from  our  anxiety  respecting  the  supposed  continuity  of  land 
at  the  bottom  of  this  magnificent  inlet,  having  reached  the  longitude  of  83° 
12',  where  the  two  shores  are  still  above  thirteen  leagues  apart,  without  the 
slightest  appearance  of  any  land  to  the  westward  of  us  for  four  or  five  points 
of  the  compass.' 

An  inlet  ten  leagues  wide,  on  the  southern  shore,  was  next  seen.  Thinking 
that  this  would  lead  to  the  American  continent,  Captain  Parry  sailed  into  it 
for  some  distance  until  stopped  by  the  ice.  While  here,  the  singular  phenom- 
enon was  observed,  as  it  had  been  by  former  voyagers,  of  the  compasses  be- 
coming useless,  the  needles  losing  all  directive  power,  and  pointing  to  any 
direction  in  which  they  might  be  turned.  This  effect,  which  added  materi- 
ally to  the  difficulty  of  navigating  an  unknown  sea,  was  due  chiefly  to  the 
proximity  of  the  magnetic  pole  :  a  successful  means  of  correcting  it  has  since 
then  been  discovered,  as  will  be  hereafter  explained.     From  this  channel,  tc 


384  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

which  the  name  of  Regent's  Inlet  was  given,  the  ships  returned  to  Barrow's 
Strait,  where,  on  the  22d  of  August,  another  wide  opening  of  eight  leagues 
was  discovered  on  the  northern  shore.  Far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  it  was 
clear  of  ice,  but  no  attempt  was  made  to  explore  it,  as  all  on  board  the  ves- 
sels were  desirous  of  getting  to  the  westward  :  it  was  called  Wellington 
Channel.  Beyond  this  several  islands  were  passed,  the  whole  group  now 
known  as  the  Parry  Islands ;  and  during  this  part  of  the  voyage  a  change 
was  noticed  in  the  general  direction  of  the  compass  needle  from  westerly  to 
easterly,  showing,  as  Captain  Parry  observes,  that  they  had  '  crossed  imme- 
diately to  the  northward  of  the  magnetic  pole,  and  had  undoubtedly  passed 
over  one  of  those  spots  on  the  globe  where  the  needle  would  have  been  found 
to  vary  180°,  or,  in  other  words,  where  its  north  pole  would  have  pointed  due 
south.' 

Sailing  onward,  the  passage  narrowed  ;  Melville  Island  was  discovered  and 
named  ;  and  on  the  4th  of  September,  the  party  became  entitled  to  the  par- 
liamentary reward  of  £5000  offered  for  attaining  110°  of  west  longitude  ;  a 
gratifying  fact  duly  commemorated  in  the  appellation  of  an  adjacent  head- 
land— Bounty  Cape.  The  narrowing  of  the  channel  disappointed  the  ex- 
plorers in  their  hope  of  making  their  way  to  Behring's  Strait  in  one  season. 
Ice  was  met  with  ;  on  the  14th  of  September  a  sudden  fall  of  snow  indicated 
the  close  of  the  fine  season;  the  Griper  was  forced  on  shore;  and  though 
got  off  again,  the  obstructions  were  such  as  to  make  it  evident  that  no  time 
was  to  be  lost  in  looking  for  winter  quarters.  With  some  difficulty  the  course 
was  retraced  to  a  bay  in  Melville  Island  ;  but  new  ice,  seven  inches  in  thick- 
ness formed  so  rapidly,  that  before  the  vessels  could  be  brought  to  their 
anchoring-ground,  a  channel  more  than  two  miles  long  had  to  be  cut  to  admit 
them. 

All  heavy  materials  and  stores  were  immediately  landed,  the  decks  cleared, 
and  each  vessel  housed  over  with  a  thick  tilt-cloth  ;  and  to  insure  as  much 
snugness  as  possible  under  the  circumstances,  the  sides  were  banked  up  with 
snow.  Notwithstanding  the  heating  apparatus  distributed  throughout  each 
ship,  the  sleeping  berths  were  nearly  always  damp,  and  coated  with  ice  ;  and 
whenever  the  external  air  was  admitted,  by  the  opening  of  a  door,  the  sudden 
rush  of  cold  condensed  the  warm  air  of  the  apartment  to  a  visible  vapor, 
which  settled  and  froze  on  the  bulk-heads  and  beams.  Later  in  the  season 
the  berths  were  taken  down,  and  hammocks,  slung  a-midship,  substituted  for 
them,  very  much  to  the  comfort  and  health  of  the  crews — an  arrangement 
which  has  been  followed  in  subsequent  voyages  with  equal  benefit.  During 
the  winter  all  available  means  were  taken  to  promote  health  and  cheerfulness: 
when  the  weather  permitted,  the  men  took  exercise  on  shore,  and  on  other 
occasions,  were  made  to  run  round  the'  deck,  to  the  tunes  of  a  hand-orqfan,  or 
to  their  own  songs.  Dramatic  entertainments  were  prepared  :  the  fir?t  rep- 
resentation took  place  on  the  day  on  which  the  ice-bound  adventurers  lost 
sight  of  the  sun,  to  see  it  no  more  for  three  dreary  months,  and  was  repeated 
fortnightly  afterward.  A  school  was  opened,  and  well  attended  by  the  crews, 
who  found  learning  to  read  a  valuable  relief  from  ennui  and  its  concomitant 
evils;  and  the  officers,   among  other  modes  of  using  the  time,  si*vlied  8 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  385 

weekly  manuscript  newspaper — '  The  North  Georgia  Gazette,  and  Winter 
Chronicle' — in  which  humor  and  philosophy  were  mingled,  to  the  amusement 
and  edification  of  writers  and  readers.  Those  who  understand  the  intimate 
connection  between  mental  and  physical  health  will  best  appreciate  these 
attempts  to  provide  occupation  for  mind  and  body. 

But  the  scientific  objects  of  the  expedition  were  not  forgotten  :  in  the  ob- 
servatory built  on  shore,  astronomical,  magnetical,  and  meteorological  observa- 
tions were  perseveringly  recorded,  in  spite  of  the  rigorous  climate,  and  when 
the  cold  was  such  that  to  touch  the  metal  of  the  instruments  raised  a  blister, 
or  took  off  the  skin,  just  as  in  a  case  of  burning,  it  was  necessary  to  hold  the 
breath  while  observing,  otherwise  a  thin  film  of  ice  formed  on  the  eye-glasses. 
Several  phenomena  peculiar  to  northern  latitudes  were  taken  account  of:  cu- 
rious effects  of  refraction,  appearances  of  aurora,  facility  of  hearing  sounds 
at  great  distances — in  calm  weather  conversation  could  be  held  between  two 
individuals  more  than  a  mile  apart,  with  but  a  slight  elevation  of  the  voice  ; 
smoke  did  not  rise,  but  crept  along  for  several  miles  in  a  horizontal  direction ; 
objects  seen  at  a  distance,  in  the  dreary  waste  of  snow,  deceived  the  eye,  and 
appeared  much  larger  than  they  were  in  reality.  February,  1820,  was  the 
coldest  part  of  the  season  ;  the  temperature  fell  to  55°  below  zero,  a  degree 
of  frigor  which  might  well  be  supposed  to  be  unbearable  ;  yet  if  there  be  no 
wind,  it  can  be  borne  without  pain.  Mercury  froze  so  as  to  become  malleable, 
and  could  be  beaten  into  a  variety  of  forms. 

In  March,  preparations  were  made  to  fit  the  ships  again  for  service  ;  the 
ice  which  had  accumulated  inside  the  Hecla,  from  breath  and  steam,  was 
scraped  off,  making  a  quantity  of  seventy-five  bushels.  On  the  12th  and 
13th  of  May,  the  first  ptarmigan,  deer,  and  musk-ox,  were  seen  ;  the  animals 
pass  every  spring  from  the  mainland  to  the  islands,  to  graze  and  breed.  On 
the  1st  of  June,  a  party  set  out  to  cross  the  island  to  its  northern  shore  :  the 
pools  were  full  of  fowl,  the  rapid  fervor  of  an  Arctic  summer  had  already 
converted  the  snowy  waste  into  'luxuriant  pasture  ground,'  rich  in  flowers 
and  grass,  with  ?  almost  the  same  lively  appearance  as  that  of  an  English 
meadow,'  a  fact  which  fully  accounts  for  the  periodical  migration  of  animals 
from  the  continent. 

It  was  not  until  the  1st  of  August  that  the  ships  were  once  more  fairly 
afloat,  and  endeavors  made  to  push  to  the  westward ;  but  the  icy  barrier 
which  the  party  had  seen  on  their  first  approach,  still  barred  their  progress. 
The  Griper  again  took  the  ground  during  a  perilous  interval,  and  all  further 
progress  in  the  much-desired  direction,  became  hopeless.  The  heads  of  the 
vessels  were  reluctantly  turned  to  the  eastward  ;  they  stood  out  of  the  sound, 
surveyed  part  of  Baffin's  Bay,  and  in  November  returned  to  England,  tvitb 
all  hands,  comprising  ninety-four  individuals,  in  health,  having  lost  but  one 
during  their  eighteen  months'  absence. 

In  September  of  the  same  year  that  Parry  sailed,  an  overland  expedition 
started  from  York  Factory,  Hudson's  Bay,  under  charge  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, accompanied  by  Dr.  (now  Sir  John)  Richardson,  two  midshipmen — 
Messrs.  Back  and  Hood — and  Hepburn,  a  seaman,  with  the  object  of  explor- 
ing the  north  coast  of  America,  to  its  eastern  extremity,  from  the  mouth  of 
25 


3g(5  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

the  Coppermine.  There  was  a  chance  that  Parry  might  make  for  the  coast, 
in  his  ships  ;  and  if  so,  the  two  parties  would  have  co-operated  with  mutua. 
advantage.  Franklin  and  his  party,  increased  by  the  addition  of  sixteen 
Canadian  voyageurs,  interpreters,  etc.,  left  Fort  Chipewyan,  in  July  1820, 
for  Fort  Enterprise,  on  Winter  Lake,  more  than  500  miles  distant.  Here, 
after  walking  eighty  miles  to  get  a  look  at  the  Coppermine,  they  wintered, 
while  Mr.  (now  Sir  George)  Back,  returned  on  foot  to  Fort  Chipewyan,  to 
expedite  the  transit  of  stores  required  for  the  next  year's  operations.  At  the 
end  of  five  months,  he  rejoined  his  companions,  having  walked  1100  miles  on 
snow  shoes,  in  the  depth  of  winter  :  a  journey  which  put  his  powers  of  endu- 
rance to  a  severe  test,  the  thermometer  being  seldom  above  zero,  and  on  one 
occasion,  57°  below  it.  On  the  last  day  of  June,  1821,  the  whole  party 
having  dragged  their  canoes  and  baggage  to  the  river — a  tedious  and  fa- 
tiguing service — embarked  on  the  rapid  stream,  and  reached  the  sea  on  the 
18th  of  July.  The  main  object  of  the  expedition  then  commenced;  and 
with  two  birch-bark  canoes,  each  manned  by  ten  men,  and  fifteen  days'  pro- 
vision, Franklin  paddled  to  the  eastward.  They  followed  the  coast  for  two 
weeks,  pinched  at  times  for  want  of  food,  as  some  of  their  pemmican  had 
turned  mouldy,  till  they  came  to  what  is  now  called  Coronation  Gulf,  a  dis- 
tance, reckoning  the  indentations  of  the  shore,  of  555  geographical  miles. 
By  this  time,  the  canoes,  which  had  gone  through  some  rough  duty,  were 
scarcely  serviceable  ;  and  the  stock  of  provisions  was  reduced  to  three  days' 
consumption.  Under  these  circumstances  the  leaders  resolved  to  return.. 
They  walked  first,  to  a  spot  on  the  shore,  ten  miles  distant  from  their  halting- 
place,  which,  with  literal  truth,  was  named  Point  Turnagain.  To  attempt  to 
reach  the  Coppermine,  so  late  in  the  season,  would  have  been  fatal  to  the 
whole  of  the  party;  they  therefore  made  for  Hood's  river,  discovered  by 
them  a  few  days  previously,  up  which  they  had  ascended,  to  the  first  rapid, 
by  the  26th  of  August.  Two  small  portable  canoes,  were  then  constructed 
from  the  two  larger  ones,  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  rivers,  on  the  journey 
now  before  them  ;  and  on  the  1st  of  September  they  set  off  on  a  straight 
course,  for  Fort  Enterprise,  1 50  miles  distant.  The  fatigues  and  privations 
endured  on  this  route,  are  scarcely  to  be  paralleled  ;  short  of  food,  ill  sup- 
plied with  clothing,  and  exposed  to  the  howling  severity  of  the  climate,  the 
escape  of  any  one  of  the  number  appears  almost  a  miracle.  Some  days, 
when  there  was  nothing  to  eat,  and  no  means  of  making  a  fire,  they  passed 
entirely  in  bed  ;  on  others,  after  a  weary  and  exhausting  travel,  their  only 
nourishment,  on  halting  for  the  night,  was  tripe  de  roche,  or  rock-tripe,  a  spe- 
cies of  lichen,  Gyrophora  proboscidea  of  botanists,  a  plant  of  most  nauseous 
taste,  and  the  cause  of  cruel  bowel  complaints  to  the  whole  party.  Daily 
they  became  weaker,  and  less  capable  of  exertion  :  one  of  the  canoes  was  so 
much  broken  by  a  fall,  that  it  was  burned  to  cook  a  supper;  the  resource  of 
fishing  too,  was  denied  them,  for  some  of  the  men,  in  the  recklessness  of 
misery,  threw  away  the  nets.  Rivers  were  to  be  crossed  by  wading,  or  in 
the  canoe  ;  on  one  of  these  occasions,  Franklin  took  his  seat  with  two  of  the 
voyageurs,  in  their  frail  bark,  when  they  were  driven  by  the  force  of  the 
stream  and  the  wind,  to  the  verge  of  a  frightful  rapid,  in  which  the  canoe 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  387 

upset,  and  but  for  a  rock  on  which  they  found  footing,  they  would  there  have 
perished.  On  the  19th,  'previous  to  setting  out,  the  whole  party  ate  the  re- 
mains of  their  old  shoes,  and  whatever  scraps  of  leather  they  had,  tc 
strengthen  their  stomachs  for  the  fatigue  of  the  day's  journey.  These,'  adds 
Franklin,  'would  have  satisfied  us  in  ordinary  times,  but  we  were  now  almost 
exhausted  by  slender  fare  and  travel,  and  our  appetites  had  become  ravenous. 
We  looked,  however,  with  humble  confidence  to  the  great  Author  and  Giver 
of  all  good,  for  a  continuance  of  the  support  which  had  hitherto  been  always 
supplied  to  us  at  our  greatest  need.' 

A  day  or  two  afterward,  the  remaining  canoe  was  left  behind  ;  no  entrea- 
ties could  prevail  on  the  men  to  carry  it  farther.  Dr.  Richardson,  too,  was 
obliged  to  abandon  his  collection  of  plants  and  minerals,  from  inability  to  en- 
dure the  burthen.  The  killing  of  five  small  deer,  at  this  time,  however, 
enabled  them  to  rest  for  a  couple  of  days,  to  recruit  their  exhausted  strength. 
On  the  26th,  they  came  to  the  Coppermine,  the  crossing  of  which,  owing  to 
their  weak  condition,  the  loss  of  the  canoe,  and  having  to  construct  a  raft  of 
willow  branches,  detained  them  until  the  4th  of  October.  They  were  now 
almost  in  the  last  stage  of  starvation ;  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  exertions 
of  Hepburn,  in  collecting  tripe  de  roche,  not  one  of  them  would  have  sur- 
vived.- On  the  7th,  when  at  twenty-four  miles  from  Fort  Enterprise,  a  divi- 
sion of  the  party  took  place  :  Franklin,  with  eight  of  the  men,  went  on,  while 
Richardson  stayed  behind  at  the  encampment  to  tend  on  Hood,  who  was 
scarcely  able  to  move.  Hepburn  remained  with  them.  Three  of  the 
voyageurs,  unable  to  proceed  with  Franklin,  and  Michel,  an  Iroquois,  were 
permitted  to  return  to  the  halting-place,  where  they  would  be  at  least  certain 
)f  fire  and  rock-tripe,  but,  with  the  exception  of  the  Indian,  they  perished  by 
the  way  :  not  one  of  them  was  ever  seen  again.  Franklin,  with  his  five  sur- 
vivors, reached  Fort  Enterprise  on  the  11th.  What  a  disappointment  awaited 
them  !  Instead  of  a  cordial  welcome  from  friendly  hunters,  and  abundance 
of  provisions,  as  had  been  promised,  all  was  a  blank :  the  building  was 
tenantless. 

A  note  was  found  from  Mr.  Back,  who  had  journeyed  on  in  advance,  stating 
that  he  had  gone  in  search  of  the  Indians,  and  if  need  were,  to  Fort  Provi- 
dence. This  was  but  poor  comfort  for  the  famished  travelers,  who  were 
obliged'' to  take  up  their  quarters  in  the  dilapidated  edifice.  The  rubbish- 
heaps  concealed  beneath  the  snow  were  searched  for  old  skins,  bones,  or  any 
kind  of  offal  that  might  serve  as  food  when  stewed  with  rock-tripe.  A  good 
fire  was  a  luxury  seldom  enjoyed,  for  they  had  scarcely  strength  to  collect 
wood.  Eighteen  weary  days  were  passed  in  these  painful  ^privations,  when 
the  monotony  was  interrupted  by  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Richardson,  and  Hep- 
burn, in  a  most  emaciated  condition,  bringing  the  melancholy  intelligence  that 
Mr.  Hood  and  the  Iroquois  were  both  dead.  Michel,  in  a  fit  of  sullen  spite, 
to  which  uncivilized  natures  are  liable,  had  shot  the  young  and  talented  offi- 
cer, at  the  encampment  where  they  had  last  parted  ;  and  his  demeanor 
toward  the  two  survivors  becoming  more  and  more  threatening,  the  doctor, 
under  the  imperious  instinct  of  self-preservation,  took  upon  himself  the  re- 
sponsibility of  putting  the  Indian  to  death  by  a  pistol-shot.     As  afterward 


388  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

appeared,  there  was  reason  to  believe  that  two  of  the  missing  voyageurs  had 
also  been  murdered  by  the  Iroquois. 

Two  others  of  the  wretched  party  died  on  the  second  day  after  Richard- 
son's arrival  at  the  fort.  At  last,  on  the  7th  of  November,  relief  came,  borne 
by  three  Indians,  sent  by  Mr.  Back.  The  messengers  proved  themselves 
most  kind,  assiduous  attendants,  '  evincing  humanity  that  would  have  done 
honor  to  the  most  civilized  people/  And  with  good  fires,  and  sufficient  food, 
the  sufferers  began  to  recover  strength.  A  week  later,  they  were  able  to  set 
out  for  Fort  Chipewyan,  where  they  remained  until  June  of  the  following 
year.  In  July  they  reached  York  Factory,  from  whence  they  had  started 
three  years  before,  and  thus  terminated  a  journey  of  5,550  miles,  during 
which  human  courage  and  patience  were  exposed  to  trials  such  as  few  can 
bear  with  fortitude,  unless,  as  is  seen  in  Franklin's  interesting  narrative, 
arising  out  of  reliance  on  the  ever-sustaining  care  of  an  Almighty  Providence. 

The  possibility  of  entering  the  Polar  Sea  having  been  proved  by  Parry's 
first  voyage,  it  was  considered  that  the  north-west  passage  might  probably 
be  effected  in  a  lower  latitude  than  that  of  Melville  Island,  where  the  icy 
barrier  had  proved  impassable.  Parry,  accordingly,  was  sent  out  a  second 
time  with  the  Hecla  and  Fury,  in  May  1821,  with  instructions  to  make  for 
Repulse  Bay,  by  way  of  Hudson's  Strait.  The  former  never  having  been 
fully  examined,  it  was  supposed  that  some  opening  would  be  found  leading 
from  it  to  the  ocean  beyond.  Hudson's  Strait  is  notorious  for  its  manifold 
hindrances  to  navigation,  and  the  2d  of  August  had  come  before  the  ships 
reached  the  narrow  channel  between  Southampton  Island  and  the  mainland, 
named  Frozen  Strait,  by  Middleton,  who  was  baffled  by  it  in  1742.  At  the 
end  of  August,  the  vessels  were  in  Repulse  Bay,  which,  owing  to  some  phy- 
sical cause,  not  easy  of  explanation,  but  which  not  unfrequently  operates  in 
the  Arctic  Seas,  was  almost  clear  of  ice.  Boat  parties  were  immediately  set 
to  explore  the  shores,  and  the  result  of  their  labors  proved  the  entire  continu- 
ity of  land  round  the  bay,  and  consequently,  the  non-existence  of  any  pas- 
sage to  the  western  waters.  Every  opening  in  the  coast  toward  the  south- 
east was  then  diligently  examined,  in  which  service  the  ships  were  beset  by 
floating  ice,  and  in  a  few  days  drifted  back  the  whole  distance  gained  by  a 
month's  hazardous  sailing.  The  season  for  exploration  was  now  over  ;  a  se- 
cure anchorage  was  found  off  Winter  Island,  where  the  winter  was  passed 
similarly  to  that  described  in  the  former  voyage,  but  with  less  tedium  ;  for  a 
party  of  sixty  Esquimaux — men,  women,  and  children,  with  dogs  and 
sledges — took  up  their  residence  on  the  island  early  in  1822,  and  afforded 
continual  interest  to  the  voyagers  in  studying  their  habits,  manners,  resources, 
and  their  adaptation  to  surrounding  nature.  Even  under  such  apparently 
uncongenial  circumstances,  human  ingenuity  manifests  itself;  these  people 
build  their  winter  huts  dome-shaped,  with  blocks  of  snow,  as  accurately  as 
though  they  had  studied  the  geometrical  principles  of  such  constructions. 
They  display  great  skill  also,  in  fitting  and  sewing  their  dresses,  and  in  the 
manufacture  of  canoes,  weapons,  and  domestic  implements.  They  eat  little 
else  than  animal  food,  and  whenever  they  can  get  it,  will  devour  from  ten  to 
twelve  pounds  of  flesh  or  blubber  in  a  day.     Their  only  domestic  animal  if 


IX  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  389 

the  dog:  deprived  of  this  useful  creature,  their  existence  would  be  extremely 
precarious.  On  the  long  journeys  which  they  take  in  search  of  food,  six  of 
these  dogs  will  draw  a  sledge,  with  a  load  of  half  a  ton,  from  seven  to  eight 
miles  an  hour,  during  a  whole  day. 

On  the  2d  July,  the  ships  were  released  from  their  frozen  berths,  and 
attempts  made  to  sail  to  the  northward  by  Fox's  Channel — a  most  harassing 
tideway,  where  more  than  once  both  ships  were  nearly  destroyed  by  pressure 
from  floating  ice  :  so  formidable  were  the  obstacles,  that  sixty-five  days  were 
spent  in  making  forty  miles  !  The  elements  proved  unpropitious,  and  at  the 
end  of  October  the  vessels  were  once  more  in  winter  quarters  at  the  Island 
of  Igloolik ;  thirteen  days'  work  having  been  necessary  to  cut  a  canal  4,343 
feet  long,  through  ice  from  twelve  to  fourteen  inches,  and  in  some  places 
several  feet,  in  thickness.  Here  the  Esquimaux  were  more  numerous  than 
at  winter  Island. 

Not  until  August  the  8th,  1823,  could  the  ships  be  extricated  from  this 
new  station  ;  and  no  sooner  were  they  freed,  than  they  were  again  beset  by 
drifting  ice,  which  held  them  for  twenty- four  days.  The  risk  of  passing 
another  winter  in  these  dreary  regions  appeared  to  be  imminent,  when  an 
easterly  breeze  sprung  up,  and  carried  the  vessels  into  open  water.  They 
arrived  at  Shetland  in  October,  after  nearly  three  years'  absence,  and  the 
eyes  of  all  on  board,  were  gladdened  once  more  with  the  sight  of  civilized 
humanity.  The  north-eastern  point  of  the  American  continent  was  ascer- 
tained by  this  voyage  :  it  is  a  projecting  headland  of  Melville  Peninsula,  and 
the  connection  of  the  latter  with  the  main,  was  found  to  be  by  a  tortuous  and 
narrow  isthmus  ;  and  with  respect  to  a  navigable  passage  to  the  Polar  Sea, 
it  proved  that  the  only  route  to  the  westward,  lay  through  Barrows'  Strait 
or  Regent's  Inlet. 

A  third  expedition,  including  the  same  ships  with  the  same  commander, 
was  sent  out  in  1824.  Owing  to  the  unfavorable  nature  of  the  middle  ice 
in  Baffin's  Bay,  the  season  was  so  far  advanced  by  the  time  the  party  enterc  ' 
Regent's  Inlet,  that  they  at  once  went  into  winter  quarters  at  Port  Bowen, 
on  its  eastern  shore.  Here  they  remained  until  the  20th  July  1825,  when 
the  voyage  was  resumed,  but  under  very  discouraging  circumstances. 
Great  accumulations  of  ice  rendered  it  almost  impossible  to  advance  ;  the 
Fury  was  driven  on  shore,  and  abandoned,  though  most  of  her  stores  were 
saved,  and  piled  on  the  beach  ;  and  the  Hecla  returned  to  England  with  a 
double  complement  of  men  and  officers.  This  was  the  least  successful  of 
Parry's  voyages  ;  but  there  is  a  fact  connected  with  it  which  deserves  to  be 
recorded  :  it  proved  that  the  anxiety  and  difficulty,  consequent  on  the  loss  of 
power  in  the  compasses,  need  no  longer  exist.  The  placing  of  a  small 
circular  plate  of  iron  in  the  line  of  no  direction  of  the  ship,  and  near  to  the 
needle,  effects  a  compensation  which  keeps  the  latter  in  working  condition. 
This  contrivance  is  due  to  Mr.  Peter  Barlow  of  Woolwich,  and  Captain  Parry 
says,  •  Never  had  an  invention  a  more  complete  and  satisfactory  triumph  ;  for 
to  the  last  moment  of  our  operations  at  sea,  did  the  compass  indicate  the  true 
magnetic  direction/ 

Concurrently  with  Parry's   third  voyage,   three   other  expeditions  were 


390  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

undertaken  :  the  first  by  Captain  Lyon,  in  the  Griper,  to  proceed  by  Hudson's 
Strait,  and  Sir  Thomas  Rowe's  Welcome  to  Repulse  Bay  ;  then  to  cross  over 
Melville  Isthmus,  and  survey  the  coast  of  America  as  far  as  where  Franklin 
left  off  at  Point  Turnagain.  The  vessel  sailed  in  June,  1824,  but  being 
totally  unfit  for  the  service,  except  in  the  quality  of  strength,  she  was  nearly 
wrecked  on  two  occasions  in  the  Welcome,  and  all  on  board  placed  in  immi- 
nent peril  of  their  lives  ;  and  at  last,  Repulse  Bay  being  eighty  miles  distant, 
the  enterprise  was  abandoned. 

These  expeditions  had  the  twofold  object  of  making  the  north-west  pas- 
sage, and  of  completing  the  survey  of  the  North  American  coast.  Captain 
Beechey  was  appointed  to  command  the  second,  and  dispatched  in  the 
Blossom,  in  1 825,  on  a  similar  errand  to  that  now  intrusted  to  Captain  Col- 
linson  with  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator;  namely,  to  sail  round  Cape  Horn, 
and  enter  the  Polar  Sea  by  Behring's  Strait,  so  as  to  arrive  at  Chamisso 
Island,  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  by  the  10th  of  July,  1826,  there  to  wait  for 
Franklin,  of  whom  more  presently.  Beechey  reached  the  rendezvous  fifteen 
days  after  the  time  appointed,  and  made  immediate  preparations  for  explor- 
ing the  coast  to  the  eastward.  The  barge,  under  charge  of  two  of  the  lieu- 
tenants, surveyed  126  miles  of  new  shore,  until  stopped  by  a  long,  low, 
projecting  tongue  of  land,  to  which  the  name  of  Point  Barrow  was  given, 
but  without  meeting  or  hearing  any  tidings  of  the  expected  overland  party. 
The  Blossom  remained  at  the  anchorage  until  October,  when  it  became 
necessary  to  depart,  to  prevent  her  being  frozen  in  for  the  winter,  and  after  a 
cruise  in  the  Pacific,  she  returned  to  Chamisso  Island  in  August,  1827. 
Climate,  however,  with  its  usual  fickleness,  was  unfavorable  ;  there  was  very 
little  open  sea ;  and  in  endeavoring  to  push  along  the  shore,  the  barge  was 
wrecked,  and  several  of  her  crew  drowned  ;  and  on  the  6th  of  October  Capt. 
Beechey  was  obliged  to  abandon  further  exploration,  grieved  and  disappointed 
that  he  had  not  the  satisfaction  of  bearing  with  him  the  adventurous  party 
whom  he  had  been  sent  especially  to  meet. 

This  party  comprised  the  third  of  the  expeditions  referred  to  above.-  In 
1824,  Franklin,  undeterred  by  the  recollection  of  the  fearful  hardships  en- 
dured in  his  former  overland  journey,  proposed  a  second,  which,  descending 
the  Mackenzie  river  to  the  sea,  should  there  divide  its  force;  and  while 
one  party  explored  the  coast  easterly  to  the  Coppermine,  the  other,  should 
make  its  way  westerly  to  Icy  Cape,  or  if  possible,  Behring's  Strait.  The 
project  was  duly  sanctioned,  and  every  preparation  made  to  insure  success 
by  building  boats,  providing  scientific  instruments,  and  supplying  abundant 
provisions.  Beside  three  strong,  and  light  boats,  built  at  Woolwich,  better 
suited  to  navigation  among  ice  than  bark  canoes,  a  smaller  one,  covered  with 
Mackintosh,  and  weighing  only  eighty-five  pounds,  was  constructed  for  the 
purpose  of  crossing  rivers.  In  July,  1825,  the  party  arrived  at  Fort  Chipe- 
wyan,  when  a  combined  plan  of  operations  was  determined  on,  in  which 
Richardson  and  Back,  who  had  again  volunteered,  held  a  prominent  place. 
To  the  latter,  and  to  Mr  Dease,  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  traders, 
was  intrusted  the  preparation  of  winter  quarters,  so  as  to  avoid  all  risk  of 
once  more  encountering  the  privations  they  had  before  so  painfully  experienced 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  391 

In  June  1826,  they  descended  the  river,  and  separated  on  approaching  the 
sea — Richardson  and  Kendal  going  with  two  boats  to  the  east,  and  Franklin 
and  Back,  with  two  boats  to  the  west,  in  which  they  hoped  eventually  to 
effect  a  junction  with  Beechey  and  the  Blossom.  On  the  4th  of  July,  Frank- 
lin's division  was  attacked  by  some  hundreds  of  Esquimaux,  and  only  saved 
by  the  coolness  and  judgment  of  the  leaders.  Pursuing  their  voyage,  the 
usual  fate  of  arctic  voyagers  awaited  them — storms,  fogs,  cold,  and  ice.  The 
greatest  retardation  was  from  the  extreme  density  of  the  fogs,  caused  by  the 
low  and  swampy  nature  of  the  coast,  into  which  the  most  northerly  range  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  sink.  The  season  was  advancing  ;  and  after  anxious 
deliberation  as  to  pushing  on  or  returning,  the  latter  course  was  decided  on. 
The  spot  was  named  Return  Reef;  and  on  the  18th  of  August,  the  party 
turned  their  backs  on  it,  little  thinking  that  Captain  Beechey  had  done  so 
much  toward  meeting  them.  On  this  event,  Franklin  observes  :  '  Could  I 
have  known,  or  by  possibility  imagined,  that  a  party  from  the  Blossom  had 
been  at  the  distance  of  only  160  miles  from  me,  no  difficulties,  dangers,  or 
discouraging  circumstances  should  have  prevailed  on  me  to  return  ;  but 
taking  into  account  the  uncertainty  of  all  voyages  in  a  sea  obstructed  by  ice, 
I  had  no  right  to  expect  that  the  Blossom  had  advanced  beyond  Kotzebue 
Inlet,  or  that  any  party  from  her  had  doubled  Icy  Cape.'  The  extent  of 
coast  surveyed  was  374  miles,  the  whole  of  the  tamest  and  most  dreary 
character.  The  boats  got  back  to  Fort  Franklin  the  21st  of  September, 
after  a  voyage  of  2,048  miles  ;  and  there  the  unsuccessful  party  met  their 
comrades  who  had  gone  eastward.  These  had  been  favored  with  fine 
weather,  and  their  sail  of  500  miles,  or  902  by  the  coast  line,  from  one  river 
to  the  other,  afforded  a  pleasant  voyage,  during  which  they  added  some- 
what to  the  stores  of  natural  history,  botany,  geology,  etc. 

A  second  winter  passed  at  the  fort.  The  cold  was  intense,  at  one  time  the 
thermometer  standing  at  58°  below  zero  ;  but  such  a  temperature  even  as 
this  may  be  defied  with  a  weather-tight  dwelling,  plenty  of  provisions,  and 
congenial  companions.  A  series  of  magnetic  observations  was  commenced  ; 
and  as  the  loca]ity  lay  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  magnetic  pole  to  that  along 
which  Parry  had  sailed  in  his  voyages,  some  interesting  results  were  arrived 
at.  'It  appears,'  says  Franklin,  'that  for  the  same  months,  at  the  interval 
of  only  one  year,  Captain  Parry  and  myself,  were  making  hourly  observa- 
tions on  two  needles,  the  north  ends  of  which  pointed  almost  directly  toward 
each  other,  though  our  actual  distance  did  not  exceed  855  geographical 
miles  ;  and  while  the  needle  of  Port  Bowen  was  increasing  its  westerly  direc- 
tion, ours  was  increasing  its  easterly,  and  the  contrary — the  variation  being 
west  at  Port  Bowen,  and  east  at  Fort  Franklin — a  beautiful  and  satisfactory 
proof  of  the  solar  influence  on  the  daily  variation.' 

In  addition  to  magnetism,  observations  of  the  aurora  borealis  were  also 
recorded,  and  the  fact  established,  that  no  disturbance  of  the  needle  (in 
that  locality  at  least)  takes  place  during  the  play  of  the  phenomenon.  A 
course  of  lectures  too  on  practical  geology  was  delivered  by  Richardson — an 
eminently  useful  subject  in  a  new  district.  And.  as  an  instance  of  what  a 
love  for  science  may  accomplish  when  animated  by  a  persevering  and  self- 


392  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

reliant  spirit,  we  must  not  omit  to  mention  Mr.  Drummond,  one  of  the  party, 
who  passed  the  winter  alone  at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  a  small 
^hut  erected  by  himself,  where  he  collected  1500  specimens  of  plants,  and 
200  birds  and  quadrupeds,  beside  insects.  These,  though  points  of  minor 
interest  when  compared  with  the  grand  objects  of  the  expeditions,  serve 
nevertheless  to  connect  the  individuals  whose  names  they  distiguish.  by  many 
links  of  sympathy  and  esteem,  with  unobtrusive  thousands  who  oan  admire 
where  they  cannot  imitate. 

The  plan  which  had  been  proposed  by  Franklin  for  reaching  the  North 
Pole  on  the  failure  of  Captain  Buchan  in  1818  was  taken  up  by  Sir  Edward 
Parry  after  returning  from  his  third  voyage  ;  and  in  April  1827  he  sailed  for 
Spitzbergen  in  the  Hecla,  calling  by  the  way  at  Hammerfest,  to  take  on  board 
a  number  of  reindeer,  which  were  to  be  employed  in  drawing  the  two  boats,  built 
expressly  for  the  service,  and  fitted  with  sledge-runners.  Arrived  at  thei.i 
destination,  the  vessel  was  anchored  in  a  harbor  on  the  northern  coast,  while 
Parry,  with  Lieutenants  Ross  and  Bird,  Beverly  the  surgeon,  and  twenty-four 
men,  started  on  their  novel  enterprise.  The  central  point  to  which  their 
hopes  and  wishes  tended  was  600  miles  distant ;  and  to  quote  the  com- 
mander's words  :  '  It  was  proposed  to  take  with  us  resources  for  ninety  days; 
to  set  out  from  Spitzbergen,  if  possible,  about  the  beginning  of  June  ;  and  to 
occupy  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August  in  attempting  to  reach  the 
pole,  and  returning  to  the  ship,  making  an  average  of  13^  miles  per  day.' 
Each  boat,  with  the  contents,  3,573lbs.  or  268ft>s.  to  each  man.  Among  the 
stores,  was  a  good  supply  of  that  prime  essential  in  arctic  traveling,  pemmican, 
which  combines  abundant  nutriment  with  small  compass.  It  is  made  from 
beef  dried  over  wood  fires,  and  pounded,  and  preserved  in  bags,  with  fat  to 
exclude  the  air. 

On  the  13th  of  June,  the  party  were  off  Littie  Table  Island,  discovered  by 
Phipps  in  1773.  It  is  the  most  northerly  land  on  the  globe  at  present  known, 
and  though  but  little  more  than  a  rock  a  few  hundred  feet  high,  its  position 
is  such  that,  as  Parry  observes,  •  bleak,  barren,  and  rugged  as  it  is,  one 
could  not  help  gazing  at  it  with  intense  interest.* 

In  1806,  Captain  Scoresby  had  sailed  as  high  as  31°  30',  and  reported 
the  ice  then  stretching  to  the  northward,  as  a  smooth  unbroken  level,  a  de- 
scription which  unfortunately  would  no  longer  apply  in  1827.  Where  the 
water  was  open,  the  crews  availed  themselves  of  sails  and  oan;  but  when 
they  came  to  the  ice,  the  dragging  of  the  boats  proved  to  be  a  more  formid- 
able task  than  was  anticipated.  The  reindeer  had  been  left  behind  at  Spitz- 
bergen, as  useless  under  the  circumstances,  since  there  could  be  no  provender 
for  them,  and  the  labor  of  moving  the  heavy  loads  was  fatiguing  in  the  ex- 
treme. A  level  surface  was  rarely  met  with  :  the  ice  was  nearly  everywhere 
ridged  with  hummocks,  furrowed  with  deep  hollows  full  of  loose  snow  or 
water,  or  broken  up  into  sharp  laminas,  familiarly  termed  *  penknife  ice,'  by 
the  sailors. 

Although  the  season  of  the  arctic  summer,  when  there  is  constant  sunlight, 
the  temperature  was  seldom  above  the  freezing  point.  All  vicissitudes  of  wea- 
ther were  to  be  encountered  :  one  day  it  rained  steadily  for  twenty-one  houis 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  393 

without  any  of  that  shelter  which  the  land  at  times  affords.  The  night  was 
chosen  for  traveling,  the  glare  from  the  expanse  of  snow  being  less  painful 
to  the  eyes  than  when  the  sun  was  higher,  beside  which,  the  day  was  the 
best  time  for  drying  wet  garments.  This  arrangement  proved  rather  embar- 
rassing ;  the  men  scarcely  ever  knew  night  from  day,  and  the  officers,  even 
with  chronometers,  would  have  been  sometimes  puzzled  to  tell  the  hour,  had 
they  not  been  provided  with  time-keepers  constructed  to  show  twenty-four 
hours  on  the  dial,  with  but  one  revolution  of  the  hour-hand  in  that  period. 
Had  they  reached  the  pole,  where  the  sun's  apparent  height  varies  very 
slightly,  they  would  have  been  unable  to  retrace  their  steps  without  this  pro- 
vision, and  might  have  gone  off  on  a  meridian  precisely  opposite  to  the 
true  one. 

Their  labors  thus  commenced  with  the  evening  : — '  Being  rigged  for  tra- 
veling,' observes  Parry,  '  we  breakfasted  upon  warm  cocoa  and  biscuit ;  and 
after  stowing  the  things  in  the  boats  and  on  the  sledges,  so  as  to  secure  them 
as  much  as  possible  from  wet,  we  set  off  on  our  day's  journey,  and  usually 
traveled  from  five  to  five  and  a-half  hours,  then  stopped  an  hour  to  dine,  and 
again  traveled  four,  five,  or  even  six  hours,  according  to  circumstances. 
After  this  we  halted  for  the  night,  as  we  called  it,  though  it  was  usually 
early  in  the  morning,  selecting  the  largest  surface  of  ice  we  happened  to  be 
near  for  hauling  the  boats  on,  in  order  to  avoid  the  danger  of  its  breaking  up 
by  coming  in  contact  with  other  masses,  and  also  to  prevent  drift  as  much  as 
possible.  The  boats  were  placed  close  alongside  each  other,  with  their  sterns 
to  the  wind,  the  snow  or  wet  cleared  out  of  them,  and  the  sails,  supported  by 
the  bamboo  masts  and  three  paddles,  placed  over  them  as  awnings,  an  entrance 
being  left  at  the  bow.  Every  man  then  immediately  put  on  dry  stockings 
and  fur  boots,  after  which  we  set  about  the  necessary  repairs  of  boats, 
sledges,  or  clothes  ;  and  after  serving  the  provisions  for  the  succeeding  day, 
we  went  to  supper.  Most  of  the  officers  and  men  then  smoked  their  pipes, 
which  served  to  dry  the  boats  and  awnings  very  much,  and  usually  raised 
the  temperature  of  our  lodgings  10°  or  15°.  This  part  of  the  twenty-four 
hours  was  often  a  time — and  the  only  one — of  real  enjoyment  to  us  :  the  men 
told  their  stories,  and  "  fought  all  their  battles  o'er  again  ;"  and  the  labors  of 
the  day,  unsuccessful  as  they  too  often  were,  were  forgotten.  A  regular 
watch  was  set  during  our  resting-time,  to  look  out  for  bears  or  for  the  ice 
breaking  up  around  us,  as  well  as  to  attend  to  the  drying  of  the  ^othes,  each 
man  alternately  taking  this  duty  for  one  hour.  We  then  concluded  our  day 
with  prayers  ;  and  having  put  on  our  fur  dresses,  lay  down  to  sleep  with  a 
degree  of  comfort  which  perhaps  few  persons  would  imagine  possible  under 
such  circumstances  ;  our  chief  inconvenience  being,  that  we  were  somewhat 
pinched  for  room,  and  therefore  obliged  to  stow  rather  closer  than  was  quite 
agreeable.  The  temperature,  while  we  slept,  was  usually  from  36°  to  45°, 
according  to  the  state  of  the  external  atmosphere  ;  but  on  one  or  two  occa- 
sions it  rose  as  high  as  60°  to  66°,  obliging  us  to  throw  off  a  part  of  our  fur 
dress.  After  we  had  slept  seven  hours,  the  man  appointed  to  boil  the  cocoa 
roused  us,  when  it  was  ready,  by  the  sound  of  a  bugle,  when  we  commenced 
our  day  in  the  manner  before  described. 


394  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

'  Our  fuel  consisted  entirely  of  spirits  of  wine,  of  which  two  pints  formed 
our  daily  allowance,  the  cocoa  being  cooked  in  an  iron  boiler  over  a  shallow 
iron  lamp  with  seven  wicks — a  simple  apparatus,  which  answered  our  purpose 
remarkably  well.  We  usually  found  one  pint  of  the  spirits  of  wine  sufficient 
for  preparing  our  breakfast — that  is,  for  heating  twenty-eight  pints  of  water, 
though  it  always  commenced  from  the  temperature  of  32°.  If  the  weather 
was  calm  and  fair,  this  quantity  of  fuel  brought  it  to  the  boiling  point  in 
about  an  hour  and  a-quarter ;  but  more  generally  the  wicks  began  to  go  out 
before  it  had  reached  200°.  This,  however,  made  a  very  comfortable  meal 
to  persons  situated  as  we  were.  Such,  with  very  little  variation,  was  our 
regular  routine  during  the  whole  of  this  excursion.' 

Arctic  land  presents  no  very  inviting  prospect,  but  the  frozen  surface  of 
an  arctic  sea  is  drearier  still.  While  Parry  and  Ross  marched  on  ahead  of 
the  boats  to  beat  a  track,  the  most  insignificant  objects  became  a  source  of 
intense  interest  and  curiosity.  One  warm  day  two  flies  on  the  ice  were 
regarded  with  a  degree  of  attention  that  would  have  been  ludicrous  under 
other  circumstances  ;  and  equally  important  was  the  sight  of  an  aphis  borealis 
in  a  languid  state  a  hundred  miles  away  from  land.  Such,  with  the  varying 
nature  of  the  ice,  and  efforts  consequent  thereon,  and  changes  of  the  weather, 
were  the  only  incidents  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  daily  toil.  Rain  is  not 
frequent  in  the  north,  but  during  this  journey  it  rained  more  than  in  the 
whole  of  seven  previous  summers  in  a  lower  latitude.  All  these  facts  have 
to  be  taken  into  consideration  in  order  to  form  an  accurate  idea  of  the  obsta- 
cles to  be  overcome  in  arctic  travel ;  and  it  is  satisfactory  to  observe  that, 
notwithstanding  these,  the  promotion  of  sience  has  not  been  lost  sight  of  by 
the  explorers.  On  the  17th  July  Parry  and  his  officers  took  hourly  observa- 
tions on  all  natural  phenomena  observable  by  means  of  the  instruments  in 
their  possession,  in  accordance  with  an  arrangement  proposed  by  the  Royal 
Society  of  Edinburgh  for  simultaneous  hourly  observations  throughout 
that  day. 

The  conviction  soon  forced  itself  on  the  minds  of  the  principals,  that  reach- 
ing the  pole  over  such  ice  as  daily  impeded  them  was  out  of  the  question. 
Sometimes  they  gained  no  more  than  fifty  yards  in  two  hours  ;  once,  after 
eleven  hours  of  hard  work,  the  advance  made  was  only  two  miles.  The  diffi- 
culty was  further  increased  by  a  current  setting  to  the  southward,  by  which 
they  lost  more  ground  than  they  gained.  After  a  day's  severe  labor  in 
dragging  the  boats  for  twelve  miles,  they  were  but  five  miles  nearer  to  the 
pole  than  when  they  started  in  the  morning  ;  on  another  occasion  they  lost 
thirteen  miles  in  twenty-four  hours,  the  southerly  drift  running  at  times  five 
miles  an  hour.  Defeated  in  their  main  object,  the  latitude  of  83°  became 
the  assigned  goal ;  yet  even  in  this  they  were  disappointed,  and  after  strug- 
gling for  thirty-five  days  against  multiplied  difficulties,  they  were  compelled 
to  give  up  in  latitude  82°  45',  with  the  sole  satisfaction  that  in  all  human 
probability  no  adventurers  had  ever  before  penetrated  so  far.  This  was  on 
the  23d  July,  172  miles  from  the  ship. 

*  To  accomplish  this  distance,'  writes  Parry,  4  we  had  traversed,  by  our 
reckoning,  two  hundred  and  ninety-two  miles,  of  which  about  one  hundred 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  395 

were  performed  by  water,  previously  to  our  entering  the  ice.  As  we  traveled 
by  far  the  greater  part  of  our  distance  on  the  ice,  three,  and  not  unfrequently 
five  times  over,  we  may  safely  multiply  the  length  of  the  road  by  two-and 
a-half ;  so  that  our  whole  distance,  on  a  very  moderate  calculation,  amounted 
to  five  hundred  and  eighty  geographical,  or  six  hundred  and  sixty-eight  sta- 
tute miles,  being  nearly  sufficient  to  have  reached  the  pole  in  a  direct  line,' 
Soundings  had  been  taken  more  than  once  during  the  journey,  and  depths 
obtained  varying  from  two  hundred  to  four  hundred  fathoms  ;  here,  at  the 
ultimate  halting-place,  no  bottom  was  found  with  five  hundred  fathoms  of 
line.  The  party  were  again  in  the  open  sea  on  the  1 1th  August,  at  fifty  miles' 
distance  from  Table  Island,  after  forty-eight  days  on  the  ice  ;  and  ten  days 
later,  they  arrived  on  board  the  Hecla,  having  been  absent  nine  weeks,  and 
traveled  in  the  whole  more  than  eleven  hundred  miles. 

Next  in  chronological  order  is  the  expedition  equipped  at  the  cost  of  Sir 
Felix  Booth,  and  conducted  by  Captain  Ross,  and  his  nephew,  Commander 
(now  Sir  James)  Ross.  They  sailed  in  May,  1829,  in  the  Victory,  a  vessel 
fitted  with  a  steam-engine  in  addition  to  her  sails,  so  as  to  be  able  to  navigate 
in  calm  weather  or  in  baffling  winds.  The  object  of  the  voyage  was  to  search 
for  the  north-west  passage,  as  Parry  had  done  before,  by  some  opening  lead- 
ing out  of  Regent's  Inlet  :  they  arrived  in  this  inlet  in  August,  and  took  on 
board  a  large  quantity  of  the  Fury's  stores,  which  had  been  piled  on  the 
beach  when  that  vessel  was  cast  away  :  of  the  ship  herself  not  a  vestige 
remained.  They  then  sailed  for  two  hundred  miles  along  the  east  and  south- 
east coast  of  the  land,  called  North  Somerset  by  Parry,  and  named  Boothia  by 
Ross,  in  honor  of  his  patron,  and  wintered  in  Felix  Harbor,  from  which  the 
Victory  was  not  liberated  for  a  whole  year.  The  narrative  of  this  voyage, 
indeed,  affords  little  more  than  a  continued  succession  of  difficulties  and  dis- 
asters :  the  steam-engine  was  thrown  overboard  as  a  useless  incumbrance  : 
the  ship  was  either  firmly  beset,  or  unable  to  make  her  way  among  the  ice 
when  at  liberty,  and  was  at  last  abandoned,  leaving  the  party  with  no 
resource  but  the  boats  and  the  Fury's  stores  :  without  the  latter  they  must 
have  been  starved  to  death.  Two  dreary  winters  did  they  pass  on  the  beach 
where  these  stores  had  been  piled,  in  a  building  to  which  they  gave  the  name 
of  Somerset  House.  In  April,  1833,  they  began  to  carry  provisions  by  toil- 
some journeys,  and  make  deposits  at  various  places  along  the  coast  in  the 
direction  of  their  route.  Not  until  the  14th  August  of  this  year  did  the  ice 
open  to  afford  them  a  path  of  escape  from  their  miserable  imprisonment — 
miserable,  although  there  was  no  want  of  food.  Happily  they  at  length 
made  their  way  to  Barrow's  Strait,  where  they  were  taken  up  by  a  whale  ship, 
and  brought  to  England. 

One  interesting  fact  brought  to  light  by  this  voyage  affords  some  relief  to 
its  long  and  barren'series  of  disasters — the  discovery  of  the  north  magnetic 
pole  ;  the  situation  of  which  on  the  land  of  Boothia  is  marked  on  the  m^p. 
It  was  made  by  Commander  James  Ross,  on  one  of  his  exploring  excursions. 
'The  place  of  the  observatory,'  he  remarks,  'was  as  near  to  the  magnetic  pole  as 
the  limited  means  which  I  possessed  enabled  me  to  determine.  The  amount 
ot  the  dip,  as  indicated  by  my  dipping  needle,  was  89°  59',  being  thus  withia 


396  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

one  minute  of  the  vertical  ;  while  the  proximity  at  least  of  this  polo,  ii  Lot  itfi 
actual  existence  where  we  stood,  was  further  confirmed  by  the  action,  or  rathei 
by  the  total  inaction,  of  the  several  horizontal  needles  then  in  my  posses- 
sion. This  was  very  nearly  the  position  assigned  to  it  by  scientific  men  several 
years  earlier,  and  arrived  at  by  protracting  the  direction  lines  of  compass 
needles  in  various  circumjacent  latitudes,  till  they  met  in  a  central  point. 
Parry's  observations  placed  it  eleven  minutes  distant  only  from  the  site  deter- 
mined by  Ross. 

*  As  soon,'  says  the  latter,  '  as  I  had  satisfied  my  own  mind  on  the  subject. 
I  made  known  to  the  party  this  gratifying  result  of  all  our  joint  labors  ;  and 
it  was  then  that,  amidst  mutual  congratulations,  we  fixed  the  British  flag  on 
the  spot,  and  took  possession  of  the  North  Magnetic  Pole,  and  its  adjoining 
territory  in  the  name  of  Great  Britain  and  King  William  IV.  We  had  abun- 
dance of  materials  for  building  in  the  fragments  of  limestone  that  covered 
the  beach,  and  we  therefore  erected  a  cairn  of  some  magnitude,  under  which 
we  buried  a  canister  containing  a  record  of  the  interesting  fact,  only  regret- 
ting that  we  had  not  the  means  of  constructing  a  pyramid  of  more  importance, 
and  of  strength  sufficient  to  withstand  the  assaults  of  time  and  of  the  Esqui- 
maux. Had  it  been  a  pyramid  as  large  as  that  of  Cheops,  I  am  not  quite 
sure  that  it  would  have  done  more  than  satisfy  our  ambition  under  the  feel- 
ings of  that  exciting  day.  The  latitude  of  this  spot  is  70°  5'  17'',  and  its 
longitude  96°  46'  45"  west.' 

Even,  if  the  pole  were  stationary,  this  determination  could  only  be  regarded 
as  approximate  ;  but  when  we  know  that  the  center  of  magnetic  intensity  is 
a  movable  point,  we  shall  readily  understand  that  the  cairn  erected  with  so 
much  enthusiasm  can  now  only  show  where  it  was.  According  to  Hansteen, 
the  pole  moves  11'  4"  every  year,  and  revolves  within  the  frigid  zone  in  1890 
years,  so  that  it  will  not  reach  the  same  spot  in  Boothia  until  the  year  3722  ! 
The  precise  determination  of  this  point,  however,  is  said  to  be  comparatively 
unimportant,  because  its  position  can  always  be  ascertained  by  observations 
of  the  compass  and  dipping  needles. 

Ross's  protracted  stay  of  four  years  in  the  inhospitable  north  induced  the 
government  to  send  out  an  expedition  to  look  for  the  absent  party.  Back, 
who  was  then  in  Italy,  hurried  home  to  volunteer  his  services  :  his  offer  was 
accepted  ;  and  with  Dr.  King,  surgeon  and  naturalist,  he  left  England  in  Fe- 
bruary, 1833.  At  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post,  Norway  House,  the 
usual  complement  of  voyageurs  and  other  attendants  awaited  them  ;  and  in 
high  spirits  they  started  for  their  winter  quarters,  on  the  eastern  shore  of 
Great  Slave  Lake.  While  a  dwelling  was  being  erected,  the  commander  took 
a  trip  to  Lake  Aylmer,  out  of  which  flows  a  stream  now  known  as  Back's 
river,  down  which  he  hoped  to  pass  the  following  year  to  the  sea. 

In  April,  1834,  news  reached  them  of  the  return  of  Ross  and  his  crew  to 
England — a  fact  which  animated  them  with  greater  spirit  for  new  discoveries. 
In  June  they  descended  the  river — a  hazardous  feat,  as  will  be  conceived  from 
Back's  description  of  the  stream  on  arriving  at  the  sea  on  the  29th  July : — 
1  This,  then,  may  be  considered  as  the  month  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  which, 
after  a  violent  and  tortuous  course  of  530  geographical  miles,  running  through 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  397 

an  iron-ribbed  country  without  a  single  tree  on  the  whole  line  of  its  banks: 
expanding  into  fine  large  lakes  with  clear  horizons,  most  embarrassing  to  the 
navigator,  and  broken  into  falls,  cascades,  and  rapids,  to  the  number  of  nc 
less  than  eighty-three  in  the  whole,  pours  its  waters  into  the  Polar  Sea  in 
latitude  67°  11'  north,  and  longitude  94°  30'  west— that  is  to  say,  about 
thirty-seven  miles  more  south  than  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  river.' 

Foul  weather  prevented  the  exploration  of  the  coast  to  point  Turnagain, 
as  had  been  intended  :  the  utmost  that  could  be  done  was  to  send  out  a 
walking  party,  who,  after  toiling  through  swamps  for  fifteen  miles,  turned  back 
at  a  low  tongue  of  land  named  Point  Ogle.  Nothing  but  moss  and  fern 
grew  on  the  desolate  shores  ;  there  was  no  drift-wood  ;  and  so  damp  was  the 
weather,  that  for  ten  days,  while  encamped  on  Montreal  Tsland,  they  could 
not  light  a  spark  of  fire,  or  obtain  a  warm  meal.  Under  these  adverse  cir- 
cumstances, after  naming  the  prominent  points  and  islands  of  the  estuary  in 
which  they  had  found  so  little  to  cheer  them,  and  taking  possession  of  the 
country  in  the  name  of  William  IV,  they  made  their  way  to  Fort  Reliance — 
their  winter  quarters  on  Slave  Lake — and  in  the  following  year  returned  to 
England. 

This  was  not  the  last  of  Back's  labors.  In  1836,  at  the  instance  of  the 
Geographical  Society,  he  attempted  to  reach  Wager  Inlet,  Repulse  Bay,  in 
the  Terror,  as  Captain  Lyon  had  so  unsuccessfully  endeavored  to  do  twelve 
years  earlier,  and  for  a  similar  object — the  exploration  of  the  shores  of  Re- 
gent's Inlet,  and  of  the  American  continent.  The  ship  sailed  in  June  ;  in 
September  she  was  beset  by  ice  in  Fox  channel,  near  Cape  Comfort,  and 
there  held  in  its  frozen  grasp  until  the  14th  of  July,  of  the  following  year. 
It  was  as  though  an  animated  spirit  opposed  the  progress  of  the  party,  and 
determined  to  punish  their  daring.  The  stout  ship  was  at  times  heeled  over 
almost  on  her  broadside  by  toppling  ice  ;  at  others  lifted  for  weeks  together 
on  the  top  of  upheaving  masses,  or  compressed  between  encroaching  floes. 
Human  skill  was  powerless  in  circumstances  which  so  formidably  tasked 
human  courage  and  fortitude.  These  qualities  were  happily  not  lacking  ; 
and  indeed  without  them,  the  discomfited  band  of  explorers  would  never 
have  survived  to  bring  their  crippled  ship  back  to  England. 

In  1836,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  resolved  on  completing,  if  possible, 
the  survey  of  those  portions  of  the  northern  coast  which  Franklin  and  Back 
had  failed  to  reach.  This  service  was  intrusted  to  Messrs  Dease  and  Simp- 
son, two  of  their  employees,  with  a  party  of  twelve  men,  who  were  instructed 
to  descend  the  Mackenzie  river,  and  on  arriving  at  the  sea,  endeavor  to 
follow  the  coast  to  the  westward,  either  by  land  or  water,  as  weather  and 
other  circumstances  permitted,  to  the  point  at  which  Beechey  turned  back. 
They  were  afterward  to  explore  to  the  eastward  from  Point  Turnagain  of 
Franklin  ;  to  determine  whether  Boothia  Felix  were  a  peninsula,  as  Ross  sup- 
posed, or  an  island  ;  and  then  to  push  on  in  the  same  direction,  to  scmie 
known  point  which  had  been  visited  by  Back.  In  July,  1837,  they  had 
reached  Return  Reef,  where  Franklin  was  stopped.  Beyond  this  all  was  new. 
Two  large  rivers  were  discovered,  the  Garry  and  Colville,  the  latter  more  than 
a  thousand  miles  in  length.  Although  in  the  middle  of  the  dogdays,  the  ground 


398  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

was  frozen  so  hard  at  four  inches  beneath  the  surface,  that  they  could  scarcely 
drive  in  their  tent-pegs.  So  keen  was  the  north-easterly  wind,  that  'the  spray 
froze  on  the  oars  and  rigging  ;  and  out  in  the  bay  the  ice  lay  smooth  and 
solid,  as  in  the  depths  of  a  sunless  winter.'  Yet  even  here  a  few  flowers 
cheered  the  eyes  of  the  travelers,  and  enlivened  the  stubborn  soil.  On  the 
1st  of  August,  further  progress  by  water  being  impracticable — they  had 
gained  but  four  miles  on  the  four  previous  days — Mr.  Simpson,  with  some  of 
the  men  continued  the  journey  on  foot,  while  Mr.  Dease  and  the  others  re- 
mained in  charge  of  the  boats.  The  walking  party,  after  two  or  three  days' 
travel,  fell  in  with  a  number  of  Esquimaux,  from  whom  they  hired  an 
oomiak,  or  family  canoe,  in  which  to  pursue  the  voyage  aAong  the  lanes  of 
open  water  occasionally  visible  close  t<"»  the  beach.  On  the  4th,  after  passing 
the  mouth  of  a  large,  deep  river,  *1  saw,'  says  Mr.  Simpson,  'with  inde- 
scribable emotions  Point  Barrow  stretching  out  to  the  northward,  and  inclosing 
Elson  Bay,  near  the  bottom  of  which  we  now  were.'  This,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, was  the  farthest  point  attained  by  the  Blossom's  barge  in  1 826,  an 
exploit  commemorated  by  naming  the  bay  after  Lieutenant  Elson,  one  of  the 
officers  in  command. 

The  party  returned  to  the  winter  station  on  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  while 
there,  received  instructions  to  renew  their  search  to  the  eastward,  and  were 
informed  of  Sir  G.  Back's  expedition,  with  which  they  were  if  possible  to 
communicate.  They  were  descending  the  Coppermine  in  June  1838,  in  pur- 
suance of  these  instructions,  when  the  stream  was  swollen  by  spring  floods, 
and  encumbered  with  floating  ice,  and,  in  shooting  the  numerous  rapids, 
'  had  to  pull  for  their  lives,  to  keep  out  of  the  suction  of  the  precipices,  along 
whose  base  the  breakers  raged  and  foamed  with  overwhelming  fury.  Shortly 
before  noon,  we  came  in  sight  of  Escape  Rapid  of  Franklin ;  and  a  glance  at 
the  overhanging  cliffs  told  us  that  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  run  down 
with  full  cargo.  In  an  instant,'  continues  Mr.  Simpson,  ■  we  were  in  the 
vortex  ;  and  before  we  were  aware,  my  boat  was  borne  toward  an  isolated 
rock,  which  the  boiling  surge  almost  concealed.  To  clear  it. on  the  outside 
was  no  longer  possible  ;  our  only  chance  of  safety  was  to  run  between  it  and 
the  lofty  eastern  cliff.  The  word  was  passed,  and  every  breath  was  hushed. 
A  stream  which  dashed  down  upon  us,  over  the  brow  of  the  precipice  more 
than  100  feet  in  height,  mingled  with  the  spray  that  whirled  upward  from 
the  rapid,  forming  a  terrific  shower-bath.  The  pass  was  about  eight  feet 
wide,  and  the  error  of  a  single  foot  on  either  side  would  have  been  instant 
destruction.  As,  guided  by  Sinclair's  consummate  skill,  the  boat  shot 
safely  through  those  jaws  of  death,  an  involuntary  cheer  arose.  Our  next 
impulse  was  to  turn  round  to  view  the  fate  of  our  comrades  behind.  They 
had  profited  by  the  peril  we  incurred,  and  kept  without  the  treacherous  rock 
in  jjjme.' 

They  had  navigated  but  a  short  distance  along  the  coast  when  they  were 
stopped  by  ice,  and  lingered  many  days  at  Boathaven,  in  a  state  of  utter 
hopelessness.  The  time  for  returning  had  arrived  ere  any  real  work  had 
been  accomplished.  At  length,  on  the  20th  of  August,  Mr.  Simpson  started 
with,  seven  men  for  a  ten  days'  walk  to  the  eastward,  on  tb&  6rst  of  which 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  399 

they  passed  Point  Turnagain,  the  limit  of  Franklin's  survey  in  1821.  Bj 
:he  23d,  they  had  toiled  onward  to  an  elevated  cape,  rising  from  a  sea  beset 
with  ice,  and  the  land  closing  all  round  to  the  northward  :  further  progress . 
seemed  to  be  impossible.  '  With  bitter  disappointment,'  writes  Mr.  Simpson, 
'I  ascended  the  height,  from  whence  a  vast  and  splendid  prospect  burst 
suddenly  upon  me.  The  sea,  as  if  transformed  by  enchantment,  rolled  its 
free  waves  at  my  feet,  and  beyond  the  reach  of  vision  to  the  eastward. 
Islands  of  various  shape  and  size  overspread  its  surface ;  and  the  northern 
land  terminated  to  the  eye  in  a  bold  and  lofty  cape,  bearing  east-north-east, 
thirty  or  forty  miles  distant,  while  the  continental  coast  trended  away  south- 
east. I  stood,  in  fact,  on  a  remarkable  headland,  at  the  eastern  outlet  of  an 
ice  obstructed  straight.  On  the  extensive  land  to  the  northward  I  bestowed 
the  name  of  our  most  gracious  sovereign  Queen  Victoria.  Its  eastern  visible 
extremity  I  called  Cape  Pelly,  in  compliment  to  the  governor  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.'  This  was  one  of  the  rewards  which  compensate  the 
adventurous  explorer  for  seasons  of  peril  and  privation. 

In  1839,  they  were  more  successful,  and,  favored  with  mild  weather  and 
an  open  sea,  they  sailed  through  the  narrow  strait  that  separates  Victoria 
land  from  the  main.  On  the  13th  of  August,  they  doubled  Point  Ogle,  the 
farthest  point  of  Back's  journey  in  1834;  an  event  which  terminated  the 
long-pursued  inquiry  concerning  the  coast-line  of  the  American  continent. 
The  survey  was  now  complete.  A  day  or  two  later,  the  party,  with  flags 
flying,  crossed  to  Montreal  Island  in  Back's  Estuary,  where  they  discovered 
a  deposit  of  provisions  which  Captain  Back  had  left  there  five  years  pre- 
viously. The  pemmican  was  unfit  for  use  ;  but  out  of  several  pounds  of 
chocolate,  half  decayed,  the  men  contrived  to  pick  sufficient  to  make  a  kettle- 
ful  of  acceptable  drink  in  honor  of  the  occasion.  There  were  also  a  tin  case 
and  a  few  fish-hooks,  of  which,  observes  Mr.  Simpson,  ■  Mr.  Dease  and  I 
took  possession,  as  memorials  of  our  having  breakfasted  on  the  identical  spot 
where  the  tent  of  our  gallant,  though  less  successful,  precursor  stood  that 
very  day  five  years  before.' 

They  had  now  obeyed  their  instructions  to  the  letter ;  the  coast-line  was 
determined,  and  connected  with  what  was  previously  known  to  the  eastward. 
It  was  time  to  think  of  returning,  but  a  desire  to  ascertain  if  Boothia  Felix 
might  not  form  part  of  the  continent  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  estuary  led 
them  onward.  By  the  20th  of  August,  they  had  sailed  far  enough  to  see 
the  farther  shore,  with  its  capes,  of  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  which  runs  down  to 
within  forty  miles  of  Repulse  Bay  ;  and  they  then  turned  back.  On  their 
return,  they  traced  sixty  miles  of  the  south  coast  of  Boothia,  where  at  one 
time  they  were  not  more  than  ninety  miles  from  the  site  of  the  magnetic  pole 
as  determined  by  Sir  James  Ross.  A  long  extent  of  Victoria  Land  was  also 
examined  ;  and  on  the  16th  of  September,  they  once  more  happily  entered 
the  Coppermine,  after  a  boat  voyage  of  more  than  1,600  miles,  the  longest 
ever  performed  in  the  Polar  Sea. 

Hitherto  we  have  been  occupied  with  the  explorations  on  and  around 
Northern  America,  and  we  now  come  to  the  history  of  those  along  the  con- 
tinent of  Asia,  the  northern  limit  of  which  extends  over  a  space  of  14.f>°  o/ 


400       •  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

longitude.  The  discovery  and  survey  of  this  vast  region  is  due  entirely  tc 
the  Russians  ;  for  although  other  nations  have  attempted  the  passage,  they 
penetrated  no  farter  the  Karskoie  Sea  on  the  west,  and  Cape  North  on  the 
east.  The  first  knowledge  of  the  countries  which  here  bound  the  polar  basin 
was,  as  in  the  case  of  the  other  continent,  derived  from  private  adventurers, 
who  undertook  journeys  into  those  desolate  latitudes  in  hopes  of  a  profitable 
trade  in  furs,  skins,  and  ivory.  Russian  traders,  sailing  from  the  White  Sea 
and  mouth  of  the  Petchora,  voyaged  as  far  as  Obi  and  the  Iennissei ;  their 
vessels,  similar  to  those  of  early  British  navigators,  were  little  better  than 
shallops,  and  it  is  impossible  not  to  be  struck  with  the  labors  of  those  whose 
chief  resource  was  indomitable  perseverance. 

The  first  endeavors  under  government  authority  were  made  about  the 
year  1600;  and  trading  stations  were  established  at  the  mouths  of  most  of 
the  larger  rivers,  with  the  double  view  of  exploration  and  of  subjecting  the 
natives  to  Russian  authority.  The  Lena,  Iana,  Indigirka,  Alaseia,  and 
Kolyma,  wer3  discovered  before  1640,  by  parties  sent  under  Cossack  leaders 
to  collect  tribute,  who  at  the  same  time  fell  in  with  the  Tchuktches,  and 
heard  their  reports  of  islands  lying  off  the  coast.  The  earliest  attempt  to 
sail  to  eastward  of  the  Kolyma  was  made  in  1646,  and  repeated  in  the  two 
following  years,  with  several  small  vessels,  all  of  which  were  wrecked  except  one 
commanded  by  Deshneff,  a  government  functionary,  whose  name  stands  high 
among  the  early  explorers.  His  grand  object  was  to  get  round  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Anadyr,  on  the  eastern  coast,  to  trade  for  sable  skins ;  and  the  summer 
of  1648  proving  favorable  to  navigation  among  the  ice,  he  sailed  along  the 
shore  and  through  the  strait  explored  by  Behring  nearly  a  century  later,  and 
founded  a  settlement  at  the  place  to  which  he  was  bound — the  Anadyr  river. 
This  is  the  only  occasion  on  which  such  a  voyage  has  been  made  ;  and  to 
Deshneff  and  his  companions,  belongs  the  honor  of  having  been  the  first  and 
sole  navigators  from  the  Arctic  Sea  to  the  Pacific,  and  of  having  proved,  at 
a  period  much  earlier  than  is  commonly  supposed,  that  the  American  and 
Asiatic  continents  are  not  united. 

Other  expeditions  followed;  the  Bear  Islands  were  seen;  and  to  obtain 
accurate  particulars  concerning  them,  the  government  of  Siberia  sent  out  two 
parties  in  1711,  who  crossed  the  ice  to  the  Likahoff  Islands,  and  saw  others 
yet  farther  to  the  north.  On  their  return  to  the  mainland,  the  leaders  were 
murdered  by  the  crews,  who  feared  the  hardships  of  further  explorations. 
Thus  the  work  went  on  with  varying  fortune,  the  positions  mostly  ill-defined, 
as  must  be  the  case  in  the  absence  of  accurate  instruments,  until  1734,  the 
reign  of  the  Empress  Anne,  when  the  Russian  Admiralty  fitted  out  three 
expeditions,  '  to  obtain  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  northern  coast  of  Siberia 
from  the  White  Sea  to  Behring's  Strait :'  '  one,  consisting  of  two  vessels,  was 
to  sail  from  Archangel  eastward,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Obi ;  another  from  the 
Obi  to  the  Iennissei.  The  third  was  to  sail  from  the  Lena,  and  consisted  of 
two  vessels,  one  of  which  was  to  sail  westward  to  the  Iennissei,  and  the  other 
eastward,  past  the  Kolyma,  to  Behring's  Strait/ 

Insurmountable  impediments  to  navigation,  recall  of  commanders,  winter- 
ing in  the  rivers,  overland  journeys  to  St  Petersburg,  renewed  attempts^ 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  401 

scurvy,  and  shipwreck,  comprise  the  history  of  these  expeditions.  One  of 
the  mates,  in  observations  on  the  compass,  makes  the  remark,  ■  The  variation 
of  the  needle  was  so  great,  and  it  was  so  unsteady,  that  I  am  inclined  tc 
believe  the  magnet  ceases  to  act  in  these  hi  oh  latitudes.'  This  fact  is 
worthy  of  record,  as  bearing  on  phenomena  which  have  subsequently  been 
regarded  with  much  attention.  But,  on  the  main  question :  the  Russian 
Admiralty  refused  to  receive  the  reports  of  impossible  navigation  ;  and,  in 
1739,  sent  out  another  expedition  under  Lieutenant  Lapteff,  who,  by  dint  of 
perseverance  in  four  successive  voyages,  did  at  last  pass  to  the  eastward  of 
the  Kolyma ;  but  here  fields  of  ice  extending  far  to  the  north,  barred  his 
further  progress. 

Next  in  order  came  the  voyages  by  Behring.  This  mariner,  a  Dane  by 
birth,  was  first  employed  in  explorations  by  the  Czar  Peter.  It  was  in  1741, 
that  he  sailed  through  the  strait  which  has  since  borne  his  name,  to  examine 
the  coast  of  Kamtschatka,  which  was  then  supposed  to  stretch  away  to  the 
south,  and  join  Japan.  After  being  forty-four  days  at  sea,  he  was  wrecked 
on  a  small  island,  where  he  died  in  great  misery,  and  but  a  small  number  of 
his  crew  survived  to  return  to  the  mainland,  and  tell  the  story  of  his  fate. 
Schalaroff,  a  merchant  of  Yakutsk,  was  equally  unfortunate.  In  1760,  this 
adventurer,  whose  name  is  venerated  throughout  Siberia,  determined  on  try- 
ing whether  the  passage  could  or  could  not  be  accomplished.  He  perseveied 
during  three  seasons,  in  defiance  of  mutiny  and  hardships  innumerable.  He, 
too,  was  wrecked  on  the  desolate  coast,  seventy  miles  east  of  Cape  Che- 
lagskoi,  and,  with  all  his  crew,  died  of  starvation.  Three  years  later,  Ser- 
geant Andrejeff  conducted  a  sledge  expedition  across  the  ice  to  the  Bear 
Islands  ;  his  reports,  which  were  much  exaggerated,  led  shortly  afterward  to 
the  accurate  survey  of  this  and  the  adjacent  country. 

■Cook's  exploration,  which  has  been  before  referred  to,  produced  another 
expedition  on  the  part  of  the  Russians,  which  sailed  from  the  Kolyma  in 
1787,  under  Captain  Billings  ;  but  the  attempts  made  to  navigate  either  to  the 
east  or  the  west,  were  both  defeated.  Further  efforts  were  made  at  intervals 
during  the  first  quarter  of  the  present  century,  some  of  them  mainly  to  search 
for  the  northern  continent,  whose  existence,  far  in  the  Polar  Sea,  had  so  often 
been  the  subject  of  rumor.  And  last,  we  come  to  the  expeditions  commanded 
by  Lieutenant  Anjou,  and  Admiral  von  Wrangell,  carried  on  also  by  means 
of  dogs  and  sledges  from  the  year  1820  to  1823  ;  the  latter  taking  the  mouth 
of  the  Kolyma  for  his  starting-point — the  former,  the  river  Iana.  These  un- 
dertakings were  especially  promoted  by  the  Emperor  Alexander,  and  were 
conducted  with  all  the  care  and  skill  warranted  by  an  advanced  state  of  sci- 
ence and  philosophy.  They  failed  but  in  one  particular — the  discovery  of 
the  northern  continent.  How  diligently  and  perseveringly  this  was  searched 
for,  is  best  proved  by  the  narrative  of  perils  endured,  even  to  the  risk  of  life, 
in  the  arduous  enterprise.  Three  times  was  the  frozen  surface  of  the  sea 
traversed,  without  leading  to  any  definite  result ;  on  the  fourth  journey,  in 
March,  1823,  Von  Wrangell  reached  the  latitude  of  70°  51',  longitude  175^ 
27'  west — 105  wersts  in  a  direct  line  from  the  mainland.  Soundings  gave  a 
depth  of  22-^  fathoms  ;  the  ice  here  was  thin  and  weak.  More  than  once  the 
26* 


402  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

party  had  only  been  saved  from  breaking  through  by  the  speed  at  which  the 
Jogs  traveled  over  it.  In  the  distance,  a  screen  of  dense  blue  vapor — a  cer- 
tain indication  of  open  water — was  visible,  on  which  the  admiral  remarks:— 

1  Notwithstanding  this  sure  token  of  the  impossibility  of  proceding  much 
farther,  we  continued  to  go  due  north  for  about  nine  wersts,  when  we  arrived 
at  the  edge  of  an  immense  break  in  the  ice,  extending  east  and  west  farther 
than  the  eye  could  reach,  and  which  at  the  narrowest  part  was  more  than  a 
hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  across.  .  .  .  We  climbed  one  of  the  loftiest  ice- 
hills,  when  we  obtained  an  extensive  view  toward  the  north,  and  whence  we 
beheld  the  wide  immeasurable  ocean  spread  before  our  gaze.  It  was  a  fear 
ful  and  magnificent,  but  to  us  a  melancholy  spectacle.  Fragments  of  ice  of 
enormous  size,  floated  on  the  surface  of  the  agitated  ocean,  and  were  thrown 
by  the  waves  with  awful  violence,  against  the  edge  of  the  ice-field  on  the 
farther  side  of  the  channel  before  us.  The  collisions  were  so  tremendous, 
that  large  masses  were  every  instant  broken  away;  and  it  was  evident  that 
the  portion  of  ice  which  still  divided  the  channel  from  the  open  ocean,  would 
soon  be  completely  destroyed.  Had  we  attempted  to  have  ferried  ourselves 
across,  upon  one  of  the  floating  pieces  of  ice,  we  should  not  have  found  firm 
footing  upon  our  arrival.  Even  on  our  own  side,  fresh  lanes  of  water  were 
continually  forming,  and  extending  in  every  direction  in  the  field  of  ice  be- 
hind us.  With  a  painful  feeling  of  the  impossibility  of  overcoming  the  ob- 
stacles which  nature  opposed  to  us,  our  last  hope  vanished  of  discovering  the 
land,  which  we  yet  believed  to  exist.  We  saw  ourselves  compelled  to  re- 
nounce the  object  for  which  we  had  striven  through  three  years  of  hardships, 
toil,  and  danger.  We  had  done  what  duty  and  honor  demanded  :  further 
attempts  would  have  been  absolutely  hopeless,  and  I  decided  to  return. ' 

On  returning  from  this  extreme  limit  of  their  adventurous  journey,  the 
party  were  placed  in  a  situation  of  extreme  risk.  '  We  had  hardly  proceeded 
one  werst,'  writes  M.  von  Wrangell,  '  when  we  found  ourselves  in  a  fresh 
labyrinth  of  lanes  of  water,  which  hemmed  us  in  on  every  side.  As  all  the 
floating  pieces  around  us  were  smaller  than  the  one  on  which  we  stood, 
which  was  seventy-five  fathoms  across,  and  as  we  saw  many  certain  indica- 
tions of  an  approaching  storm,  I  thought  it  better  to  remain  on  the  larger 
mass,  which  offered  us  somewhat  more  security;  and  thus  we  waited  quietly 
whatever  Providence  should  decree.  Dark  clouds  now  rose  from  the  west, 
and  the  whole  atmosphere  became  filled  with  a  damp  vapor.  A  strong  breeze 
suddenly  sprung  up  from  the  west,  and  increased  in  less  than  half  an  hour  to 
a  storm.  Every  moment  huge  masses  of  ice  around  us  were  dashed  against 
each  other,  and  broken  into  a  thousand  fragments.  Our  little  party  remained 
fast  on  our  ice-island,  which  was  tossed  to  and  fro  by  the  waves.  We  gazed 
in  most  painful  inactivity,  on  the  wild  conflict  of  the  elements,  expecting 
every  moment  to  be  swallowed  up.  We  had  been  three  long  hours  in  this 
position,  and  still  the  mass  of  ice  beneath  us  held  together,  when  suddenly  it 
was  caught  by  the  storm,  and  hurled  against  a  large  field  of  ice.  The  crash 
was  terrific,  and  the  mass  beneath  us  was  shattered  into  fragments.  At  that 
dreadful  moment,  when  escape  seemed  impossible,  the  impulse  of  self-preser- 
vation, implanted  in  every  living  being,  saved  us.  Instinctively,  we  all  sprang 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  403 

at  once  on  the  sledges,  and  urged  the  dogs  to  their  full  speed.  They  flew 
across  the  }Tielding  fragments  to  the  field  on  which  we  had  been  stranded,  and 
safely  reached  a  part  of  it  of  firmer  character,  on  which  were  several  hum- 
mocks, and  where  the  dogs  immediately  ceased  running,  conscious,  apparent- 
ly, that  the  danger  was  past.  We  were  saved  :  we  joyfully  embraced  each 
other,  and  united  in  thanks  to  God  for  our  preservation  from  such  imminent 
peril.' 

More  than  once,  during  this  trip,  the  party  heard  from  the  Tchuktches,  that 
land  could  be  seen  far  away  in  the  northern  seas.  '  There  was  a  part  of  the 
coast,'  so  said  a  chief,  'where,  from  some  cliffs  near  the  mouth  of  a  river,  one 
might;  in  a  clear  summer  day,  descry  snow-covered  mountains,  at  a  great 
distance  to  the  north  ;  but  that  in  winter  it  was  impossible  to  see  so  far.'  The 
part  of  the  coast  alluded  to  was  Cape  Jakan,  which  the  explorers  afterward 
visited ;  but  although  they  '  gazed  long  and  earnestly  on  the  horizon,  in 
hopes,  as  the  atmosphere  was  clear,  of  discerning  some  appearance  of  the 
northern  land,'  they  '  could  see  nothing  of  it.' 

After  Back's  last  fruitless  voyage  in  the  Terror,  no  further  steps  toward 
discovering  the  north-west  passage  were  made  by  the  British  government  for 
seven  years.  Still,  in  certain  quarters,  the  desire  to  settle  the  long-agitated 
question,  prevailed  as  strongly  as  ever :  one  final  effort,  it  was  thought, 
should  be  made  to  traverse  the  Polar  Sea,  from  its  eastern  to  its  western 
mouth,  and  many  scientific,  as  well  as  other  considerations,  were  urged  in  its 
favor.  The  expedition  now  absent,  under  Sir  John  Franklin's  command,  was 
at  length  determined  on  ;  the  ships  selected — the  Erebus  and  Terror — were 
those  in  which  Sir  James  Ross  had  so  successfully  navigated  the  antarctic  seas ; 
and  to  render  them  more  efficient,  each  was  fitted  with  a  small  steam-engine. 
The  route  prescribed  by  official  instructions  was  the  track  taken  by  Parry  in 
his  first  and  most  fortunate  voyage  ;  to  push  directly  westward  from  Melville 
Island  to  Behring's  Strait,  without  deviation  to  the  north  or  south,  unless  ap- 
pearances were  decidedly  in  favor  of  such  a  departure  ;  and  in  the  event  of 
reaching  the  Pacific,  Sir  John  was  to  refresh  and  refit  at  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  return  to  England  by  way  of  Cape  Horn.  The  two  ships  were  provided 
with  ample  stores  for  three  years ;  patent  fuel  instead  of  coals,  for  economy 
of  stowage  ;  everything,  in  short,  that  could  promote  health,  comfort,  or  the 
cause  of  science. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Sib  John  Franklin's  Last  Expedition^- Anxiety  about  its  Fate — Expedition  sent  in  Search 
—Departure  of  the  American  Expedition— Grandeur  and  Perils  of  Arctic  Scenes— Anecdote 
—Joined  by  the  Prince  Albert— Esquimaux — the  Crimson  Cliffs — Yankee  Intrepidity — 
Fall  in  with  Captain  Penny— Traces  of  Sir  John  Franklin— G wives— the  Great  Polar 
Basin — Griffin's  Island — Ice-locked  Winter  Quarters — Sports — Imminent  Peril — Floated 
Southward  by  the  Ice— Balked— Return. 

The  vessels  under  Sir  John  Franklin,  in  his  last  expedition,  having  on 
board  138  souls,  set  sail  from  England,  on  the  19th  of  May,  1845,  on  their 
search  of  a  north-west  passage  to  Asia.     On  the  25th  of  July,  sixty-eight 


404  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

days  afterward,  they  were  seen  by  a  passing  whaler,  moored  to  an  iceberg, 
near  the  center  of  Baffin's  Bay;  since  which  time,  no  intelligence  of  their 
fate  has  been  received.  No  especial  anxiety  was  entertained  respecting  them 
until  the  beginning  of  1848,  for  the  commander  had  intimated  that  the 
voyage  would  probably  continue  for  three  years,  and  that  they  might  be  the 
first  to  announce  their  own  return.  But  as  month  after  month  passed  away, 
without  bringing  any  tidings,  an  anxious  and  painful  sympathy  sprung  up  in 
the  public  mind,  and  the  British  government  determined  that  searches  fol 
the  missing  vessels  should  be  made,  and  three  different  expeditions  were  dis- 
patched in  1848,  for  this  purpose.  Other  expeditions  were  subsequently 
started  out  from  England,  in  the  course  of  the  two  years  ensuing,  and  one 
from  the  United  States ;  but  all  human  efforts  to  ascertain  the  fate  of  the 
missing  vessels,  thus  far,  have  been  in  vain,  and  perhaps  will  so  remain  for- 
ever shrouded  in  impenetrable  mystery. 

The  American  expedition,  from  the  high  degree  of  nautical  skill  and 
daring  courage  displayed,  merits  some  detail  of  its  efforts  on  the  behalf  of 
the  lost  mariners :  we  therefore,  annex  its  history,  as  narrated  by  one  of  the 
adventurers. 

This  expedition  was  sent  out  by  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  an  opulent  merchant 
of  New  York,  and  consisted  of  two  small  brigs,  strengthened  for  this  ser- 
vice— the  Advance,  of  140  tons,  and  the  Rescue,  of  only  90.  The  command 
was  given  to  Lieut.  E.  De  Haven,  a  young  naval  officer,  under  whom  were 
Mr.  Murdoch,  a  sailing  master,  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane,  Surgeon  and  Naturalist ; 
Midshipman  Lovell,  and  in  the  Advance,  a  crew  of  twelve  men.  They  left 
New  York  on  the  23d  of  May,  1850,  and  were  absent  nearly  sixteen  months. 
In  ten  days  after  leaving  Sandy  Hook,  they  passed  the  eastern  extremity  of 
New  Foundland,  and  then  sailing  northeasterly,  were  soon  coasting  along  the 
south-west  shores  of  Greenland. 

When  the  Expedition  reached  Melville  Bay,  which,  on  account  of  its  fear- 
ful character,  is  also  called  the  Devil's  Nip,  the  voyagers  began  to  witness 
the  grandeur  and  perils  of  Arctic  scenes.  Icebergs  of  all  dimensions  came 
bearing  down  from  the  Polar  seas,  like  vast  squadrons,  and  the  roar  of  their 
rending  came  over  the  waters  like  the  booming  of  the  heavy  broadsides  of 
contending  navies.  They  also  encountered  immense  floes,  with  only  narrow 
channels  between,  and  at  times  their  situation  was  extremely  perilous.  On 
one  occasion,  after  heaving  through  fields  of  ice  for  five  consecutive  weeks, 
two  immense  floes,  between  which  they  were  making  their  way,  gradually  ap- 
proached each  other,  and  for  several  hours  they  expected  their  tiny  vessels — 
tiny  when  compared  with  the  mighty  objects  around  them — would  be  crushed. 
An  immense  calf  of  ice,  six  or  eight  feet  thick,  slid  under  the  Rescue,  lifting 
her  almost  "  high  and  dr)*-,"  and  careening  her,  partially,  upon  her  beam's 
end.  By  means  of  ice-anchors  (large  iron  hooks),  they  kept  her  from  cap- 
sizing. In  this  position  they  remained  about  sixty  hours,  when,  with  saws 
and  axes,  they  succeeded  in  relieving  her.  The  ice  now  opened  a  little,  and 
they  finally  warped  through  into  clear  water.  While  they  were  thus  confined, 
polar  bears  came  around  them  in  abundance,  greedy  for  prey,  and  the  seamen 
indulged  a  little  in  the  perilous  sports  of  the  chase. 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  405 

The  open  sea  continued  but  a  short  time,  when  they  became  again  entangled 
among  bergs,  floes,  and  hummocks,  and  encountered  the  most  fearful  perils, 
Sometimes  they  anchored  their  vessels  to  icebergs,  and  sometimes  to  floes  or 
masses  of  hummock.  On  one  of  these  occasions,  while  the  cook,  an  active 
Frenchman,  was  upon  a  berg,  making  a  place  for  an  anchor,  the  mass  of  ice 
split  beneath  him,  and  he  was  dropped  through  the  yawning  fissure  into  the 
water,  a  distance  of  almost  thirty  feet.  Fortunately,  the  masses,  as  is  often 
the  case,  did  not  close  up  again,  but  floated  apart,  and  the  poor  cook  was 
hauled  on  board,  more  dead  than  alive,  from  excessive  fright.  It  was  in  this 
fearful  region  that  they  first  encountered  pack-ice,  and  there  they  were  locked 
in,  from  the  7th  to  the  23d  of  July.  During  that  time  they  were  joined  by 
the  yacht  Prince  Albert,  commanded  by  Captain  Forsyth,  of  the  Royal  Navy, 
and  together  the  three  vessels  were  anchored,  for  a  while,  to  an  immense 
field  of  ice,  in  sight  of  the  Devil's  Thumb.  That  high,  rocky  peak,  situated 
in  latitude  74°  22'  was  about  thirty  miles  distant,  and  with  the  dark  hills  ad- 
jacent, presented  a  strange  aspect  where  all  was  white  and  glittering.  The 
peak  and  the  hills  are  masses  of  rock,  with  occasionally  a  lichen  or  a  moss 
growing  upon  their  otherwise  naked  surfaces.  In  the  midst  of  the  vast  ice- 
field loomed  up  many  lofty  bergs,  all  of  them  in  motion — slow  and  majestic 
motion. 

From  the  Devil's  Thumb  the  American  vessels  passed  onward  through  the 
pack  toward  Sabine's  Islands,  while  the  Prince  Albert  essayed  to  make  a 
more  westerly  course.  They  reached  Cape  York  at  the  beginning  of  August. 
Far  across  the  ice,  landward,  they  discovered,  through  their  glasses,  several 
men,  apparently  making  signals  ;  and  for  a  while  they  rejoiced  in  the  belief 
that  they  saw  a  portion  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  companions.  Four  men  were 
dispatched  with  a  whale-boat  to  reconoiter.  They  soon  discovered  the  men 
to  be  Esquimaux,  who,  by  signs,  professed  great  friendship,  and  endeavored 
to  get  the  voyagers  to  accompany  them  to  their  homes  beyond  the  hills. 
They  declined  ;  and  as  soon  as  they  returned  to  the  vessel,  the  expedition 
again  pushed  forward,  and  made  its  way  to  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  which  they 
reached  on  the  7th  of  August. 

At  Cape  Dudley  Digges  they  were  charmed  by  the  sight  of  the  Crimson 
Cliffs,  spoken  of  by  Captain  Parry  and  other  Arctic  navigators.  These  are 
iofty  cliffs  of  dark  brown  stone,  covered  with  snow  of  a  rich  crimson  color. 
It  was  a  magnificent  sight  in  that  cold  region,  to  see  such  an  apparently 
warm  object  standing  out  in  bold  relief  against  the  dark  blue  back-ground  of 
a  polar  sky.  This  was  the  most  northen  point  to  which  the  expedition  pene- 
trated. The  whole  coast  which  they  had  passed  from  Disko  to  this  cape  is 
high,  rugged,  and  barren,  only  some  of  the  low  points,  stretching  into  the 
sea,  bearing  a  species  of  dwarf  fir.  Northeast  from  the  cape  rise  the  Arctic 
Highlands,  to  an  unknown  altitude  ;  and  stretching  away  northward  is  the 
unexplored  Smith's  Sound,  filled  with  impenetrable  ice. 

From  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  the  Advance  and  Rescue,  beating  against  wind 
and  tide  in  the  midst  of  the  ice-fields,  made  Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  then 
changing  their  course  to  the  southwest,  emerged  from  the  fields  into  the  open 
waters  of  Lancaster  Sound.     Here,  on  the  18th  of  August,  they  encountered 


406  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

a  tremendous  gale,  which  lasted  about  twenty-four  hours.  The  two  vessels 
parted  company  during  the  storm,  and  remained  separate  several  days. 
Across  Lancaster  sound,  the  Advance  made  her  way  to  Barrow's  Straits,  and 
on  the  22d  discovered  the  Prince  Albert  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  straits, 
near  Leopold  Island,  a  mass  of  lofty,  precipitous  rocks,  dark  and  barren,  and 
hooded  and  draped  with  snow.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  soon  the  officers 
md  crews  of  the  two  vessels  met  in  friendly  greeting.  Those  of  the  Prince 
Albert  were  much  astonished,  for  they  (being  towed  by  a  steamer)  left  the 
Americans  in  Melville  Bay  on  the  6th,  pressing  northward  through  the  pack 
and  could  not  conceive  how  they  so  soon  and  safely  penetrated  it.  Captain 
Forsyth  had  attempted  to  reach  a  particular  point,  where  he  intended  to 
remain  through  the  winter,  but  finding  the  passage  thereto  completely 
blocked  up  with  ice,  he  had  resolved,  on  the  very  day  when  the  Americans 
appeared,  to  "  bout  ship,"  and  return  home. 

The  two  vessels  remained  together  a  day  or  two,  when  they  parted  com- 
pany, the  Prince  Albert  to  return  home,  and  the  Advance  to  make  further 
explorations.  On  this  occasion,  off  Leopold  Island,  the  Americans  evinced 
an  intrepidity  and  daring  skill,  that  astonished  the  officers  of  the  British 
vessel.  One  of  them,  Mr.  Snow,  was  on  board  of  the  Advance,  and  in  his 
journal  thus  dwells  upon  the  subject : 

"  If  ever  a  vessel  and  her  officers  were  capable  of  going  through  an  un- 
dertaking in  which  more  than  ordinary  difficulties  had  to  be  encountered,  I 
had  no  doubt  it  would  be  the  American  ;  and  this  was  evinced  to  me,  even 
while  we  were  on  board,  by  the  apparently  reckless  way  in  which  they  dashed 
through  the  streams  of  heavy  ice  running  off  from  Leopold  Island.  I  hap- 
pened to  go  on  deck  when  they  were  thus  engaged,  and  was  delighted  to 
witness  how  gallantly  they  put  aside  every  impediment  in  their  way.  An 
officer  was  standing  on  the  heel  of  the  bowsprit,  conning  the  ship  and  issu- 
ing his  orders  to  the  man  at  the  wheel  in  that  short,  decisive,  yet  clear  man- 
ner, which  the  hemlsman  at  once  well  understood  and  promptly  obeyed. 
There  was  not  a  rag  of  canvas  taken  in,  nor  a  moment's  hesitation.  The 
way  was  before  them:  the  stream  of  ice  had  to  be  either  gone  through  boldly 
or  a  long  detour  made  ;  and,  despite  the  heaviness  of  the  stream  they  pushed 
the  vessel  through  in  her  proper  course.  Two  or  three  shocks,  as  she  came  in 
contact  with  some  large  pieces,  were  unheeded;  and  the  moment  the  last  block 
was  past  the  bow,  the  officer  sung  out,  «  So :  steady  as  she  goes  on  her 
course;'  and  came  aft  as  if  nothing  more  than  ordinary  sailing  had  been 
going  on.  I  observed  our  own  little  bark  nobly  following  in  the  American's 
wake  ;  and  as  I  afterward  learned,  she  got  through  it  pretty  well,  though  not 
without  much  doubt  of  the  propriety  of  keeping  on  in  such  procedure  after 
the  '  mad  Yankee,'  as  he  was  called  by  our  mate. 

From  Leopold  Island  the  Advance  proceeded  to  the  north-west,  and  on  the 
25th  reached  Cape  Riley,  another  amorphous  mass,  not  so  regular  and  pre- 
cipitate as  Leoplold  Island,  but  more  lofty.  Here,  a  strong  tide  setting  in  to 
shore,  drifted  the  Advance  toward  the  beach,  where  she  stranded.  Around 
her  were  small  bergs  and  large  masses  of  floating  ice,  all  under  the  influence 
of  the  strong  current.     It  was  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  she 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  407 

struck.  By  diligent  labor  in  removing  everything  from  her  deck  to  a  small 
floe,  she  was  so  lightened,  that  at  four  o'clock  the  next  morning  she  floated, 
and  soon  everything  was  properly  replaced. 

Near  Cape  Riley  the  Americans  fell  in  with  a  portion  of  an  English  Ex- 
pedition, and  there  also  the  Rescue,  left  behind  in  the  gale  in  Lancaster 
Sound,  overtook  the  Advance.  There  was  Captain  Penny  with  the  So])hia 
and  Lady  Franklin;  the  veteran  Sir  John  Ross,  with  the  Felix,  and  Commodore 
Austine,  with  the  Resolute  steamer.  Together  the  navigators  of  both  nations 
explored  the  coast  at  and  near  Cape  Riley,  and  on  the  27th  they  saw  in  a  cove 
on  the  shore  of  Beechey  Island,  or  Beechey  Cape,  on  the  east  side  of  the  en- 
trance to  Wellington  Channel,  unmistakable  evidence  that  Sir  John  Franklin 
and  his  companions  were  there  in  April,  1846.  There  they  found  many 
articles  known  to  belong  to  the  British  Navy,  and  some  that  were  the  property 
of  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  the  ships  under  the  command  of  Sir  John.  There 
lay,  bleached  to  the  whiteness  of  the  surrounding  snow,  a  piece  of  canvas, 
with  the  name  of  the  Terror,  marked  upon  it  with  indestructible  charcoal. 
It  was  very  faint,  yet  perfectly  legible.  Near  it  was  a  guide  board,  lying 
flat  upon  its  face,  having  been  prostrated  by  the  wind.  It  had  evidently  been 
used  to  direct  exploring  parties  to  the  vessels,  or,  rather,  to  the  encampment 
on  shore.  The  board  was  pine,  thirteen  inches  in  length  and  six  and  a  half 
in  breadth,  and  nailed  to  a  boarding  pike  eight  feet  in  length.  It  is  supposed 
that  the  sudden  opening  of  the  ice,  caused  Sir  John  to  depart  hastily,  and 
that  in  so  doing,  this  pike  and  its  board  were  left  behind.  They  also  found 
a  large  number  of  tin  canisters,  such  as  are  used  for  packing  meats  for  a  sea 
voyage  ;  an  anvil  block;  remnants  of  clothing,  which  evinced,  by  numerous 
patches  and  their  threadbare  character,  that  they  had  been  worn  as  long  as 
the  owners  could  keep  them  on  ;  the  remains  of  an  India  rubber  glove,  lined 
with  wool  ;  some  old  sacks;  a  cask,  or  tub,  partly  filled  with  charcoal,  and  an 
unfinished  rope-mat,  which,  like  all  other  fibrous  fabrics,  was  bleached  white. 

But  the  most  interesting  and  at  the  same  time  most  melancholy  traces  of 
the  navigators,  were  three  graves,  in  a  little  sheltered  cove,  each  with  a  board 
at  the  head,  bearing  the  name  of  the  sleeper  below.  These  inscriptions 
testify  positively  when  Sir  John  and  his  companions  were  there,  and  were  as 
follows : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  John  Torrington,  who  departed  this  life, 
January  1st,  A.  d.,  1846,  on  board  her  Majesty's  ship  Terror,  aged  20  years." 
U  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  John  Hartnell,  A.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship 
Erebus;  died,  January  4th,  1846,  aged  25  years.  'Thus  saith  the  Lord  of 
Hosts,  Consider  your  ways :'  Haggai,  chap,  i,  v.  7."  "  Sacred  to  the  memory 
of  W.  Braine,  R.  M.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Erebus,  who  died  April  3d,  1846, 
aged  32  years.  '  Choose  you  this  day  whom  you  will  serve  :'  Joshua,  chap, 
xxiv,  part  of  the  15th  verse." 

How  much  later  than  April  3d  (the  date  upon  the  last-named  head -board), 
Sir  John  remained  at  Beechey,  cannot  be  determined.  They  saw  evidences 
of  his  having  gone  northward,  for  sledge  tracks  in  that  direction  were  very 
visible.  It  is  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Kane  that,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  in 
the  spring,  Sir  John  passed  northward  with  his  ships  through  Wellington 


408  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATIONS 

Channel,  into  the  great  Polar  basin,  and  that  he  did  not  return.  Dr.  Kane, 
in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Grinnell,  since  the  return  of  the  expedition,  thus  expresses 
his  opinion  concerning  the  safety  of  Sir  John  and  his  companions.  After 
saying,  "I  should  think  that  he  is  now  to  be  sought  for  north  and  west  of 
Cornwallis  Island,"  he  adds,  "as  to  the  chance  of  the  destruction  of  his 
party  by  the  casualties  of  ice,  the  return  of  our  own  party  after  something 
more  than  the  usual  share  of  them,  is  the  only  fact  that  I  can  add  to  what 
we  knew  when  we  set  out.  The  hazards  from  cold  and  privation  of  food  may 
be  almost  looked  upon  as  subordinate.  The  snow-hut,  the  fire  and  light 
from  the  moss-lamp  fed  with  blubber,  the  seal,  the  narwhale,  the  white  whale, 
and  occasionally  abundant  stores  of  migratory  birds,  would  sustain  vigorous 
life.  The  scurvy,  the  worst  visitation  of  explorers  deprived  of  permanent 
quarters,  is  more  rare  in  the  depths  of  a  polar  winter,  than  in  the  milder 
weather  of  the  moist  summer ;  and  our  two  little  vessels  encountered  both 
seasons  without  losing  a  man." 

Leaving  Beechey  Cape,  our  expedition  forced  its  way  through  the  ice  to 
Barlow's  Inlet,  where  they  narrowly  escaped  being  frozen  in  for  the  winter. 
They  endeavored  to  enter  the  Inlet,  for  the  purpose  of  making  it  their  winter 
quarters,  but  were  prevented  by  the  mass  of  pack-ice  at  its  entrance.  It  was 
on  the  4th  of  September,  1850,  when  they  arrived  there,  and  after  remain- 
ing seven  or  eight  days,  they  abandoned-  the  attempt  to  enter.  There  was 
much  smooth  ice  within  the  Inlet,  and  while  the  vessels  lay  anchored  to  the 
"  field,"  the  officers  and  crew  exercised  themselves  by  skating.  On  the  left 
of  the  Inlet,  they  discovered  a  Cairn  (a  heap  of  stones  with  a  cavity)  eight 
or  ten  feet  in  height,  which  was  erected  by  Captain  Ommanny  of  the  English 
Expedition  then  in  the  polar  waters.  Within  it  he  had  placed  two  letters, 
for  "whom  it  might  concern."  Commander  De  Haven  also  deposited  a 
letter  there.  It  is  believed  to  be  the  only  post-office  in  the  world,  free  for  the 
use  of  all  nations.  The  rocks,  here,  presented  vast  fissures  made  by  the 
frost ;  and  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  that  powerful  agent  had  cast  down  vast 
heaps  of  debris. 

From  Barlow's  Inlet,  our  Expedition  moved  slowly  westward,  battling 
with  ice  every  rood  of  the  way,  until  they  reached  Griffin's  Island,  at  about 
96°  west  longitude  from  Greenwich.  This  was  attained  on  the  11th,  and 
was  the  extreme  westing  made  by  the  expedition.  All  beyond  seemed  im- 
penetrable ice  ;  and,  despairing  of  making  any  further  discoveries  before  the 
winter  should  set  in,  they  resolved  to  return  home.  Turning  eastward,  they 
hoped  to  reach  Davis's  Straits  by  the  southern  route,  before  the  cold  and 
darkness  came  on,  but  they  were  doomed  to  disappointment.  Near  the 
entrance  to  Wellington  Channel  they  became  completely  locked  in  by  hum- 
mock-ice, and  soon  found  themselves  drifting  with  an  irresistible  tide  up  that 
channel  toward  the  pole. 

Now  began  the  most  perilous  adventures  of  the  navigators.  The  summer 
day  was  drawing  to  a  close  ;  the  diurnal  visits  of  the  pale  sun  were  rapidly 
shortening,  and  soon  the  long  polar  night,  with  all  its  darkness  and  horrors, 
would  fall  upon  them.  Slowly  they  drifted  in  those  vast  fields  of  ice, 
whither,  or  to  what  result,  they  knew  not.     Locked  in  the  moving  yet  con:* 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  409 

pact  mass  ;  liable  every  moment  to  be  crushed  ;  far  away  from  land  ;  the 
mercury  sinking  daily  lower  and  lower  from  the  Zero  figure,  toward  the  point 
where  that  metal  freezes,  they  felt  small  hope  of  ever  reaching  home  again. 
Yet  they  prepared  for  winter  comforts  and  winter  sports,  as  cheerfully  as  if 
lying  safe  in  Barlow's  Inlet.  As  the  winter  advanced,  the  crews  of  both 
vessels  went  on  board  the  larger  one.  They  unshipped  the  rudders  of  each  to 
prevent  their  being  injured  by  the  ice,  covered  the  deck  of  the  Advance  with 
felt,  prepared  their  stores,  and  made  arrangements  for  enduring  the  long 
winter,  now  upon  them.  Physical  and  mental  activity  being  necessary  fo~ 
the  preservation  of  health,  they  daily  exercised  in  the  open  air  for  s^veial 
hours.  They  built  ice  huts,  hunted  the  huge  white  bears  and  the  little  polar 
foxes,  and  when  the  darkness  of  the  winter  night  had  spread  over  tLero, 
they  arranged  in-door  amusements  and  employments. 

Before  the  end  of  October,  the  sun  made  its  appearance  for  the  last  time, 
and  the  awful  polar  night  closed  in.  Early  in  November  they  wholly  aban- 
doned the  Rescue,  and  both  crews  made  the  Advance  their  permanent  winter 
home.  The  cold  soon  became  intense  ;  the  mercury  congealed,  and  the 
spirit  thermometer  indicated  46°  below  zero !  Its  average  range  was  30°  to 
35c  They  had  drifted  helplessly  up  Wellington  Channel,  almost  to  the 
latitude  from  whence  Captain  Penny  saw  an  open  sea,  and  which  all  believe 
to  be  the  great  polar  basin,  where  there  is  a  more  genial  clime  than  that 
which  intervenes  between  the  Arctic  Circle  and  the  75th  degree.  Here, 
when  almost  in  sight  of  the  open  ocean,  that  mighty  polar  tide,  with  its  vast 
masses  of  ice,  suddenly  ebbed,  and  our  little  vessels  were  carried  back  as 
resistlessly  as  before,  through  Barrow's  Straits  into  Lancaster  Sound !  A:i 
this  while  the  immense  fields  of  hummock-ice  were  moving,  and  the  vesse's 
were  in  hourly  danger  of  being  crushed  and  destroyed.  At  length,  whih 
drifting  through  Barrow's  Straits,  the  congealed  mass,  as  if  crushed  together 
by  the  opposite  shores,  became  more  compact,  and  the  Advance  was  elevated 
almost  seven  feet  by  the  stern,  and  keeled  two  feet  eight  inches,  starboard. 
In  this  position  she  remained,  with  very  little  alteration,  for  five  consecutive 
months  ;  for,  soon  after  entering  Baffin's  Bay  in  the  midst  of  the  winter,  the 
ice  became  frozen  in  one  immense  tract,  covering  millions  of  acres.  Thus 
frozen  in,  sometimes  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  land,  they  drifted 
slowly  along  the  south-west  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay,  to  a  distance  of  more  than  a 
thousand  miles  from  Wellington  Channel.  For  eleven  weeks  that  dreary 
night  continued,  and  during  that  time  the  disc  of  the  sun  was  never  seen 
above  the  horizon.  Yet  nature  was  not  wholly  forbidding  in  aspect.  Some- 
times the  Aurora  Borealis  would  flash  up  still  further  northward  ;  and  some- 
times Aurora  Parhelia — mock  suns  and  mock  moons — would  appear  in  varied 
beauty  in  the  starry  sky.  Brilliant,  too,  were  the  northern  constellations  ; 
and  when  the  real  moon  was  at  its  full,  it  made  its  stately  circuit  in  the 
heavens  without  descending  below  the  horizon,  and  lighted  up  the  vast  piles  of 
ice  with  a  pale  luster,  almost  as  great  as  the  morning  twilights  of  more  genial 
skies. 

Around  the  vessels  the  crews  built  a  wall  of  s<*» ;  and  in  ice  huts  they 
slowed  away  their  cordage  and  stores  to  make  rovm  for  exercise  on  the  decks. 


410  ADVENTURES  AND  EXPLORATION'S 

They  organized  a  theatrical  company,  and  amused  themselves  and  the  officers 
with  comedy  well  performed.  Behind  the  pieces  of  hummock  each  actor 
learned  his  part,  and  by  means  of  calico  they  transformed  themselves  into 
female  characters,  as  occasion  required.  These  dramas  were  acted  upon  the 
deck  of  the  Advance,  sometimes  while  the  thermometer  indicated  30°  below 
zero,  and  actors  and  audience  highly  enjoyed  the  fun.  They  also  went  out 
in  parties  during  that  long  night,  fully  armed,  to  hunt  the  polar  bear,  the 
prim  monarch  of  the  frozen  north,  on  which  occasions  they  often  encountered 
perilous  adventures.  They  played  at  foot-ball,  and  exercised  themselves  in 
drawing  sledges,  heavily  laden  with  provisions.  Five  hours  of  each  twenty- 
four,  they  thus  exercised  in  the  open  air,  and  once  a  week  each  man  washed 
his  whole  body  in  cold  snow  water.  Serious  sickness  was  consequently 
avoided,  and  the  scurvy  which  attacked  them  soon  yielded  to  remedies. 

Often  during  the  fearful  night,  they  expected  the  disaster  of  having  their 
vessels  crushed.  All  through  November  and  December,  before  the  ice  be- 
came fast,  they  slept  in  their  clothes,  with  knapsacks  on  their  backs,  and  sledges 
upon  the  ice,  laden  with  stores,  not  knowing  at  what  moment  the  vessels 
might  be  demolished,  and  themselves  forced  to  leave  them  and  make  their 
way  toward  land.  On  the  8th  of  December,  and  the  23d  of  Januarj'-,  they 
actually  lowered  their  boats  and  stood  upon  the  ice,  for  the  crushing  masses 
;vere  making  the  timbers  of  the  gallant  vessel  creak  and  its  decks  to  rise  in 
the  center.  They  were  then  ninety  miles  from  land,  and  hope  hardly 
whispered  an  encouraging  idea  of  life  being  sustained.  On  the  latter  occa- 
sion, when  officers  and  crew  stood  upon  the  ice,  with  the  ropes  of  their  pro- 
vision sledges  in  their  hands,  a  terrible  snow-drift  came  from  the  north-east, 
<*id  intense  darkness  shrouded  them.  Had  the  vessel  then  been  crushed,  all 
must  have  perished.  But  God,  who  ruled  the  storm,  also  put  forth  his  pro- 
tecting arm  and  saved  them. 

Early  in  February  the  northern  horizon  began  to  be  streaked  with  a  gorgeous  twilight, 
t\e  herald  of  the  approaching  king  of  day  ;  and  on  the  18th  the  disc  of  the  sun  first 
appeared  above  the  horizon.  As  its  golden  rim  rose  above  the  glittering  snow-drifts  and 
piles  of  ice,  three  hearty  cheers  went  up  from  those  hardy  mariners,  and  they  welcomed 
their  deliverer  from  the  chains  of  frost  as  cordially  as  those  of  old,  who  chanted, 

"  See !  the  conquering  hero  comes ! 
hound  the  trumpet,  beat  the  drums !" 

Day  after  day  it  rose  higher  and  higher,  and  while  the  pallid  faces  of  the  voyagers, 
bleached  during  that  long  night,  darkened  by  its  beams,  the  vast  masses  of  ice  began  to 
yield  to  its  fervid  influences.  The  scurvy  disappeared  ;  and  from  that  time  until  they 
arrived  at  home,  not  a  man  suffered  from  sickness.  As  they  slowly  drifted  through 
Davis's  Straits,  and  the  ice  gave  indications  of  breaking  up,  the  voyagers  made  prepara- 
tions for  sailing.  The  Rescue  was  re-occupied  (May  13th,  1851),  and  her  stern-post,  which 
had  been  broken  by  the  ice  in  Barrow's  Straits,  was  repaired.  To  accomplish  this  they 
were  obliged  to  dig  away  the  ice,  which  was  from  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  thick  around  her. 
They  re-shipped  their  rudders  ;  removed  the  felt  covering ;  placed  their  stores  on  deck, 
and  patiently  awaited  the  disruption  of  the  ice.  It  began  to  give  way  on  the  5th  of  June, 
and  in  twenty  minutes  the  whole  mass  became  one  vast  field  of  moving  Jloes.  On  the 
10th,  they  emerged  into  open  water,  a  little  south  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  in  latitude  65°  30'. 
They  immediately  repaired  to  Godhaven,  on  the  coast  of  Greenland,  where  they  re-fitted, 
and,  unappalled  by  the  perils  through  which  they  had  again  passed,  they  turned  their 
prows  northward,  to  encounter  the  ice  squadrons  of  Baffin's  Bay.  Onward  they  passed, 
through  the  accumulating  ice,  to  Baffin's  Island.    Here  again  the  expedition  encoair.a?ed 


IN  THE  POLAR  REGIONS.  411 

vast  fields  of  hummock-ice,  and  were  subjected  to  the  most  imminent  perils.  The  floating 
ice  tumbled  in  huge  masses,  and  reared  upon  the  sides  of  the  sturdy  little  vessels  like 
monsters  of  the  deep  intent  upon  destruction.  The  noise  was  fearful ;  so  deafening  that 
the  mariners  could  scarcely  hear  each  other's  voices.  The  sound  of  these  rolling  masses, 
together  with  the  rending  of  the  icebergs  floating  near,  and  the  vast  floes,  produced  a  din 
like  the  discharge  of  a  thousand  pieces  of  ordnance  upon  a  field  of  battle. 

Finding  the  north  and  west  closed  against  further  progress,  by  impenetrable  ice,  the 
brave  De  Haven  was  balked,  and  turning  his  vessels  homeward,  they  came  out  into 
an  open  sea,  somewhat  crippled,  but  not  a  plank  seriously  started.  During  a  storm  off 
the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  a  thousand  miles  from  New  York,  the  vessels  parted  com- 
pany. The  Advance  arrived  safely  at  Brooklyn  on  the  30th  of  September,  1851,  and  the 
Rescue  joined  her  there  a  few  days  afterward. 

SECOND      EXPEDITION      UNDER      D  E.KANE. 

The  spirit  of  chivalrous  adventure,  nothing  daunted  by  the  unsuccessful  result  of  this 
voyage,  soon  led  to  the  undertaking  of  another  expedition.  On  the  31st  of  May,  1853,  a 
single  vessel,  the  "Advance,"  with  a  company  of  seventeen  persons,  under  the  command 
of  Dr.  Kane,  who  was  attached  to  the  previous  expedition,  set  sail  from  New  York.  They 
went  with  provisions  calculated  for  a  two  years'  search,  their  immediate  destination  being 
Smith's  Sound,  the  farthest  point,  to  the  north,  yet  reached.  This  expedition,  like  the 
last,  was  fitted  out  by  Mr.  Griunell.  No  tidings  of  the  little  adventurous  crew  were 
h  >ard,  after  tl.cy  left  the  coast  of  Newfoundland.  Month  after  month  rolled  on,  until  it 
siemed  probable  that  they  had  met  the  fate  of  the  brave  and  ill-fated  men  of  whom  they 
were  in  search. 

At  length,  an  expedition  was  fitted  out,  by  order  of  the  government,  to  search  for  the 
missing  explorers.  On  May  31st,  1855,  just  two  years  after  the  sailing  of  Kane's  second 
expedition,  the  barque  "Release,"  and  propeller  "x\rctic,"  under  command  of  Lieutenant 
Hartstein,  U.  S.  N.,  set  sail  for  the  Polar  Sea.  In  about  four  months,  their  search  was 
rewarded  with  success.  They  fell  in  with  the  whole  of  Dr.  Kane's  party,  except  three, 
who  had  died  on  the  voyage,  and  brought  them  safely  back  to  New  York.  The  history 
of  the  perils  of  the  second  Kane  expedition,  though  of  absorbing  interest,  cannot  here  be 
told.  On  the  10th  of  Sfptember,  1853,  they  had  been  frozen  in  on  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
at  the  farthest  northern  point  ever  yet  reached.  Here  they  passed  the  winter.  The  next 
summer  was  spent  in  exploring  the  shores,  their  vessel  remaining  fast  and  immovable  in 
the  ice.  The  next  winter  (1854-5)  was  one  of  great  severity  ;  and  before  spring,  their 
stock  of  fuel  gave  out.  At  length,  in  May  1855,  they  decided  to  abandon  the  vessel  and 
return  home.  They  set  sail  in  open  boats,  and  reached  the  Danish  settlements,  August 
4th,  having  traversed  1300  miles  in  eighty-one  days.  Here  they  were  about  taking  pas- 
sage for  England,  when  they  were  fallen  in  with  by  Lieutenant  Hartstein's  Relief  Expedi- 
tion, and  all  sailed,  on  the  18th  of  September,  for  New  York,  where  they  arrived  October 
11th,  1855,  to  the  great  joy  of  their  friends,  and  satisfaction  of  the  public,  who  had  nearly 
given  them  up  for  lost. 

In  January,  1856,  some  additional  and  highly  interesting  indications  of  the  fate  of  Sir 
John  Franklin,  and  his  companions,  were  brought  to  light.  An  overland  exploring  party, 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  having  traveled  north  to  the  mouth  of  Great  Fish  river, 
fell  in  with  a  tribe  of  Esquimaux,  who  informed  them  that  it  was  in  this  neighborhood 
that,  four  years  ago,  the  brave  adventurers  died  from  famine  and  exhaustion.  On  Mon- 
treal Island,  and  the  opposite  coast,  according  to  this  account,  they  had  wandered  about 
till,  one  by  one,  they  expired.  In  confirmation  of  this  story,  a  snow-shoe,  of  undoubted 
English  make,  a  part  of  a  ship's  boat,  with  the  word  "  Terror  "  yet  distinctly  visible 
upon  it,  and  other  articles  that  had  belonged  to  the  Franklin  expedition,  were  found  by 
the  explorers,  on  Montreal  Island.  No  bones,  or  traces  of  any  human  body  were  discov* 
ered  ;  and  it  is  supposed  that  the  remains  of  the  navigators  were  devoured  by  the  wolves 
which  were  seen  in  large  bands  throughout  the  neighborhood. 


WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 


IB 


GERMANY. 


RUINS    OP    SONNECK    CASTLK,    ON    THE    RHINE. 

Sketch  of  Germany — Romantic  Enterprise — Entrance  into  Germany — Highlands  of  the 
Rhine — Legends — The  Rheingau — Frankfort — Heidelberg — Amusing  Anecdote — Ger- 
man Students — The  Consecration  Song — The  Landlady's  Daughter — Life  Among  the 
Peasants — Pleasing  Adventures — Sojourn  in  Frankfort — Amusing  Scenes — Christmas 
and  New  Year's  Festivities — The  Court  of  Peace — The  Jew  Rothschild — Pedestrian 
Journey  to  the  Hartz — The  Hessians — Specter  of  the  Brocken — Alarming  Situation — 
Leipsic — Dresden — The  Madonna  of  Raphael — Fortress  of  Konigstein — Mountain 
Maidens — Bohemia — Austrian  Suspicion — Prague — Bigotry — Shrines  by  the  Way-side 
— Female  Degradation — "  The  Tramping  Jour." — Vienna — Austrian  Tyranny — Joyous 
Emotions  among  the  Alps — Adventure  in  a  Mountain  Cottage — Hohenlinden — Munich 
— Frankfort — A  Home  Scene. 

Germany  consists  of  some  forty  sovereign  states,  inclusive  of  those  be- 
longing to  Austria,  Prussia,  Denmark  and  Holland.  It  has  been  termed  the 
net-work  and  puzzle  of  geographers,  her  divisions  are  so  many  and  compli- 
cated. .-JO 


414  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

The  area  of  Germany  is  a  little  less  than  four  times  that  of  Virginia.  Its 
southern  and  central  parts  are  traversed  by  ranges  of  mountains  in  every 
direction,  separated  only  by  narrow  valleys,  while  to  the  north  the  elevation 
subsides  into  a  wide  sandy  plain,  little  above  the  sea  level.  The  Tyrol  is 
wholly  occupied  by  branches  of  the  Alps,  presenting  many  of  the  peculiari- 
ties of  Switzerland.  Central  Germany  is  much  diversified  by  picturesque 
scenery  and  abounds  with  verdant  and  well  wooded  valleys,  which  are 
watered  by  clear  streams.  The  banks  of  the  Meyn  and  the  Moselle  are  re- 
markable for  their  varied  scenery,  and  the  Valley  of  the  Rhine  unites  the 
grandeur  of  a  fine  landscape  with  the  appearance  of  a  highly  fertile  country. 
In  the  Austrian  territories  the  plains  are  confined  by  the  Alps  ;  but  are  futile 
and  deep,  and  sometimes  as  narrow  as  those  of  Switzerland. 

The  soil  of  Germany  is  generally  productive,  and  every  species  of  grain  is 
cultivated.  Its  extent  and  variety  of  elevations  produce  great  variations  in 
climate  ;  that  of  Central  Germany  is  the  most  agreeable  and  salubrious  of  any 
in  Europe.  The  inhabitants  of  Germany  are  of  three  essentially  different 
families :  the  Deutsch,  the  Sclavonic,  and  the  Grseco-Latin  ;  of  these  the 
High  and  Low  Deutsch  comprise  about  four-fifths;  the  Sclavonic  a  little  less 
than  one-fifth  and  the  Grseco-Latin  a  small  fraction  principally  confined  to  the 
Italian  portions  of  Tyrol,  Friuli  and  Trieste.  The  pervading  and  legal 
language  is  the  Deutsch.  The  Sclavonic  people  are  found  east  of  the  Danube: 
and  yet  the}'  retain  .their  own  dialect,  but  with  a  great  mixture  of  German 
words. 

Germany,  especially  the  Prussian  and  more  Protestant  part  of  the  confede- 
ration, contains  one  of  the  best  educated  and  most  intelligent  communities  in 
Europe  :  indeed  in  Prussia,  parents  are  compelled  by  law  to  send  their 
children  to  school.  Few  Germans  can  be  found  unable  to  read  and  write  and 
unacquainted  with  arithmetic.  In  almost  all  the  large  towns  classical  and 
other  schools  abound,  and  the  universities  are  numerous,  well  endowed  and 
celebrated.  Learned  societies  spread  all  over  the  country,  and  libraries  and 
museums  afford  means  to  those  engaged  in  the  pursuit  of  knowledge.  The 
Press  of  Germany  has  long  been  famous,  and  German  authors,  for  research 
and  talent,  head  the  grand  column  of  literature. 

Catholicism,  Lutherism,  and  Calvinism  are  equally  the  religions  of  Ger- 
many, and  enjoy  in  all  the  states  perfect  freedom  of  worship;  about 
one-half  of  the  people  are  Catholics. 

Germany  was  known  to  the  ancient  Romans,  but  not,  like  France,  Spain 
and  Britain,  conquered  and  annexed  to  the  Roman  Empire.  The  Germans 
are  described  as  having  then  been  the  rudest,  the  fiercest,  and  the  bravest  of 
all  the  barbarians.  The  surface  was  divided  among  a  number  of  small  na- 
tions, scantily  cultivating  the  ground,  despising  all  the  arts  of  civilized  life, 
led  by  their  chiefs  in  war,  but  scarcely  owning  their  authority  in  peace,  and 
determining  all  things  by  a  general  council  of  the  nations. 


In  the  year  1844,  an  American  youth,  at  that  time  an  apprentice  in  a 
printing  office,  determined  to  execute  a  long  cherished  desire  of  visiting 


m  GERMANY.  415 

Europe.  Surrounded  by  unfavorable  circumstances,  and  destitute  of  means, 
other  than  those  provided  by  an  unconquerable  will  and  strong  self-reliance  ; 
yet  these  were  found  sufficient  to  carry  successfully  through,  this  romantic 
enterprise  of  the  printer's  boy,  then  scarce  nineteen  years  of  age.  The  evidence 
he  had  already  given  of  the  possession  of  literary  talents,  secured  him  the 
situation  of  a  correspondent  to  two  of  the  leading  Philadelphia  papers. 
This,  united  to  a  small  sum,  already  obtained  from  literary  labor,  answered, 
by  close  economy,  to  pay  his  expenses  abroad  for  a  period  of  two  years,  du- 
ring which  he  passed  through  Great  Britain,  Ireland,  and  over  a  large  part 
of  continental  Europe. 

He  traveled  in  company  with  another  young  man,  a  cousin,  and  mostly  on 
foot.  They  rose  usually  before  sunrise,  buckled  on  their  knapsacks,  and 
commenced  the  journey  of  the  day.  At  the  first  village  they  purchased  a 
\oaf  of  the  hard  brown  bread  of  the  European  peasantry,  with  some  trifling 
addition  of  cheese  or  butter,  then  made  a  table  of  their  knapsacks  and  break- 
fasted by  the  roadside.  At  noon  they  halted  an  hour  to  dine  and  rest ;  and 
in  the  cold  wet  days  of  winter,  sought  a  rock  or  sometimes  the  broad  abut- 
ment of  a  chance  bridge  upon  which  to  rest.  They  were  kindly  received 
wherever  they  went,  and  always  met  with  a  friendly  reception  from  the  people 
of  the  country  inns.  They  saluted  them  on  entering,  with,  "  Be  you  wel- 
come," and  on  leaving  wished  them  a  pleasant  journey  and  good  fortune. 
While  walking  they  always  accepted  a  companion,  however  humble,  as  in  a 
strange  country  something  can  be  learned  from  every  peasant.  They  found 
the  greatest  ignorance  in  regard  to  America  prevailing  among  the  common 
people,  who  imagine  us  to  be  a  half  savage  race,  destitute  of  intelligence, 
and  almost  without  law.  Traveling  in  this  manner,  they  had  abundant  leisure 
to  view  the  countries  through  which  they  were  passing,  and  unusual  oppor- 
tunities of  learning  the  every-day  life  of  the  people,  all  of  which  were  availed 
of  to  the  full. 

On  his  return  to  his  native  country,  he  published  his  pedestrian  tour,  under 
the  title  of  "  Europe  seen  with  Knapsack  and  Staff."  The  very  extended 
circulation  of  this  work,  his  poetical  writings,  and  his  later  adventures  on  the 
older  continents  of  Africa  and  Asia,  has  now  given  a  widely  extended  knowl- 
edge to  the  name  of  the  then  young  traveler,  J.  Bayard  Taylor.  From  the 
part  of  his  work  on  Europe  relating  to  Germany,  the  following  is  derived  in 
a  much  abridged  form. 

Mr.  Taylor  entered  Germany  by  a  steamer  on  the  Rhine,  "  the  river  of 
song  and  story,  whose  banks  from  the  Lake  of  Constance  to  the  German 
Ocean,  are  all  alive  with  the  histories  of  the  past."  His  whole  soul  was  ab- 
sorbed in  contemplating  the  beauty  of  the  celebrated  highlands  of  this  stream; 
mountains,  towns,  and  castles  passed,  were  familiar  to  him  from  reading,  and 
although  now  seen  for  the  first  time,  seemed  old  acquaintances,  the  sight  of 
whom  gave  exquisite  pleasure. 

On  the  Rhine,  the  traveler  is  continually  in  view  of  the  ruins  of  old  towers 
and  fortresses,  for  every  crag  and  projecting  point  has  its  castle,  and 
often  on  each  side  of  the  stream,  several  are  at  once  in  sight.  They  differ  in 
character  and  aspect,  although  on  each  is  always  a  tower,  and  frequently  a 


41(3  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

cluster  of  them  :  in  such  instances,  the  keep  or  donjon,  where  prisoners  were 
confined,  rises  higher  and  in  more  massive  proportions  than  the  cithers.  The 
only  one  at  present  occupied,  is  the  castle  of  Rheinstein,  belonging  to  Prince 
Frederick  of  Prussia,  who  restored  and  furnished  it  in  the  ancient  style.  Vo- 
lumes have  been  devoted  to  the  legends  connected  with  these  castles, — sto- 
ries of  chivalry,  of  love,  or  crime.  And  the  traveler,  well  versed  in  these 
and  history,  finds  the  Rhine  full  of  interest,  as  he  recalls  to  memory  the  ac- 
counts of  Roman  battles,  of  feats  of  robber-knights,  of  bloody  strifes  of 
more  recent  times,  of  emperors  and  kings,  and  coronations.  In  real  beauty 
and  grandeur,  the  highlands  of  the  Hudson  and  the  Rhine  are  about  equal, 
and  have  often  been  compared  ;  though  those  of  our  own  river  are  the 
boldest. 

Some  English  tourists,  were  fellow-passengers  with  Mr.  Taylor.  Seated  on 
the  deck,  they  passed  their  time  in  reading  descriptions  from  open  guide 
books,  of  the  scenery  through  which  they  were  moving,  instead  of  observing 
for  themselves.  A  shower  of  rain  drove  all  the  passengers  below,  except  our 
traveler,  just  as  they  were  Bearing  Lurlei  Berg,  and  he  was  left  alone  to  the 
enjoyment  of  some  of  the  most  beautiful  landscapes.  At  this  point  the  river 
narrows,  and  the  Lurlei  Rock,  which  towers  many  hundred  feet  above  the 
stream,  is  the  haunt  of  a  water  nymph,  named  Lurlei,  who,  as  the  legend  re- 
lates, by  her  syren  song  was  wont  to  charm  the  boatmen,  until  they  and 
their  barks  were  lured  to  destruction  on  the  rocks  below.  Here,  too,  the 
mountain-sides  give  forth  a  remarkable  echo,  with  which  the  German  students 
oftentimes  have  sport,  calling  out — "Who  is  the  Burgomaster  of  Oberwesel  ?  " 
the  town  a  short  distance  above.  The  echo  of  the  last  syllable  is  alone  dis- 
tinguished in  the  reply  "esel,"  the  German  word  for  ass. 

Among  the  noted  places  in  this  part  of  the  Rhine,  is  the  Rheingau,  a  dis- 
trict some  twenty  miles  in  length,  where  is  produced  the  famous  Rhenish 
wines.  The  hills  are  all  covered  with  vineyards  ;  the  vine  being  not  the  gar- 
land vine  of  Italy,  but  the  low  bush  vine.  The  liquor  is  of  a  white  color, 
and  generally  acid,  and  that  of  some  vineyards,  particularly  celebrated. 
Originally,  this  whole  region  was  in  the  possession  of  the  church  ;  and  monks, 
abbots,  and  bishops,  then,  it  is  said,  had  merry  times. 

The  day  after  passing  through  the  highlands  our  traveler  was  in  Frank 
fort.  This  is  a  fine  old  city  of  40,000  people,  on  the  Meyne,  twenty  miles  east 
of  its  confluence  with  the  Rhine  ;  it  is  the  capital  of  the  German  confedera- 
tion, enjoys  considerable  trade,  and  its  two  annual  fairs  are  much  frequented. 
Frankfort  was  then  one  of  the  Hansetowns,  or  free  cities  of  Germany,  the 
others  being  Lubeck,  Bremen,  and  Hamburg  ;  in  1850  they  were  deprived  of 
their  peculiar  privileges. 

Mr.  Taylor,  at  this  time  remained  but  a  few  hours,  the  next  morning  leav- 
ing in  an  omnibus  for  Heidelberg,  about  fifty  miles  south  in  Baden,  and  noted 
for  its  university.  A  few  hours'  drive  carried  him  and  his  fellow-traveler 
through  a  flat  monotonous  country,  when  they  entered  Darmstadt.  The  city 
looked  lively  and  gay,  as  a  festival  of  three  days'  duration  was  just  closing. 
Garlands  were  suspended  from  all  quarters,  the  public  square  was  filled  with 
pavilions,  and  more  than  a  thousand  musicians  were  seen  bearing  the   red 


IN  GERMANY.  417 

and  white  flags  of  Darmstadt.  Peasant-girls,  attired  in  the  same  odd  costume 
worn  by  their  maternal  ancestors  for  centuries  back,  were  met  with  by  wagon 
loads,  their  vehicles  decorated  with  a  profusion  of  flowers. 

Continuing  on,  their  route  was  along  the  base  of  a  mountain-chain  which 
rose  on  the  east,  while  far  to  the  west  extended  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Rhine,  beyond  which  were  seen  the  blue  outline  of  hills  in  France.  The 
neighboring  heights  were  surmounted  with  old  vine-clad  castles,  while  along 
each  side  the  green  foliage  of  the  walnut  trees  danced  joyously  to  the  zephyrs, 
and  the  warm  bright  sun  imparted  a  cheerful  aspect  to  all  things.  It  being  a 
fete  day,  the  peasants  appeared  full  of  pleasure  and  contentment.  They  saw 
whole  families  beneath  the  walnut  trees  gathering  nuts,  or  in  the  vineyards 
collecting  grapes,  and  carrying  them  away  in  huge  baskets,  piled  up  with 
the  luscious  tempting  fruit.  "  The  scene,"  says  Mr.  Taylor,  "  seemed  to 
realize  all  I  had  read  of  the  happiness  of  the  German  peasantry,  and  the 
pastoral  beauty  of  the  German  plains."  He  was  unable  to  hold  much  con- 
versation with  his  fellow  passengers,  from  his  ignorance  of  the  language. 
On  his  informing  one  of  them  in  broken  French,  in  answer  to  the  question, 
"  where  he  came  from,"  that  he  was,  "  an  American,"  the  latter,  with  an 
incredulous  stare,  exclaimed,  "  Why  you  are  white — the  Americans  are  all 
black." 

The  idea  that  the  Americans  were  all  black,  was,  at  that  time,  not  un- 
common in  Europe.  Professor  Silliman  relates  an  anecdote  in  his  own  ex- 
perience in  England,  illustrating  this  impression,  and  this  has  been  confirmed 
time  and  again  by  itinerating  Americans.  The  most  amusing  story  of  the 
kind  we  have  met  is  that  given  by  Maxwell,  in  his  charming  book  on  Russia, 
by  the  way,  one  of  the  best  written  books  of  travels  extant.  The  incident  he 
relates  occurred  at  Moscow. 

Several  old  gentlemen  in  this  ancient  capital  manifested  great  curiosity  in 
everything  that  related  to  the  United  States.  They  doubted  whether  Mr. 
Maxwell  was  an  American,  because  he  spoke  English,  and  because  all  Ame- 
ricans they  had  ever  seen  were  as  black  as  the  ace  of  spades.  One  old  prince 
was  so  well  satisfied  that  there  was  a  mistake  somewhere,  that  he  insisted 
upon  his  accompanying  him  to  the  theater,  to  show  him  what  had  been  his 
beau-ideal  of  American  republicans.  Among  the  performers  in  the  orchestra 
was  the  object  of  their  search,  a  grisly-headed  well-dressed  negro,  who 
tuned  up  his  fiddle  in  concert  with  the  others.  There  was  no  mistaking  his 
nationality,  for  his  style  and  manner  of  bowing  was  in  the  true  "  Ole  Virginy" 
fashion.  Inclining  his  head  upon  his  left  shoulder,  with  half-closed  eyes,  his 
body  lazily  swung  to  and  fro,  in  a  manner  that  evinced  he  alone  could  have 
been  bred  among  the  sable  minstrels  south  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  line.  He 
informed  the  prince  that  this  interesting  subject  was  doubtless  an  American, 
and  explained  to  him  the  condition  of  the  slave  population  in  our  country. 
On  ascertaining  that  our  serfs  were  black,  and  particularly  talented  in  music 
and  dancing,  he  thought  it  a  capital  arrangement,  and  that,  after  all,  the  only 
two  empires  in  the  world  of  any  consequence  was  that  of  the  model 
republic  and  the  vast  empire  of  his  imperial  majesty,  the  Czar  of  all  the 
Russias. 

27 


418  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

Mr.  Taylor  spent  at  Heidelberg  and  at  Frankfort  the  seven  months  ensuing, 
to  acquire  the  language.  At  this,  his  first  visit,  he  remained  several  weeks 
in  Heidelberg,  which  he  found  a  beautiful  place,  and  was  never  tired  in  wan 
dering  among  its  wild  romantic  environs. 

With  his  cousin  he  hired  pleasant  rooms  in  the  town.  From  their  window 
was  a  full  view  of  the  Heiligenberg  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Neckar. 
Around  its  base  clustered  beautiful  vineyards,  with  here  and  there  pic- 
turesque cottages  peering  forth  from  amid  the  shrubbery  ;  oftentimes  the 
scene  was  enlivened  by  groups  of  peasant-women  toiling  up  the  mountain, 
bearing  huge  baskets  on  their  heads,  going  to  their  labors. 

They  were  much  amused  by  many  of  the  customs  of  the  Germans.  Cows 
instead  of  oxen  were  used  for  work.  Frequently  a  single  cow  was  seen  drag- 
ing  a  cart ;  on  other  occasions  two  were  yoked  together  by  their  horns. 
The  cheerful  songs  of  the  women  at  work  among  the  vineyards  continually 
reached  ther  ears,  which,  with  their  odd  costumes,  was  a  novelty  to  the 
young  men.  The  cookery  of  the  Germans  was  new,  but  by  degrees  they  got 
used  to  it,  and  throve  well  upon  potatoes  cooked  in  vinegar  and  oil,  meat 
flavored  with  orange  peel,  artichokes  boiled,  and  other  dishes  as  incongruous 
to  American  appetites. 

At  Heidelberg,  Mr.  Taylor  was  invited  to  attend  a  meeting  of  one  of  the 
societies  of  the  students  of  the  university.  Attired  in  the  coat  and  hat  of  a 
student,  he  proceeded  thither  with  a  young  German  named  Baader,  the  pre- 
sident of  the  society.  Nearing  the  inn  a  confused  sound  of  voices  met  his  ear, 
and  as  he  entered  the  room  he  was  enveloped  in  clouds  of  smoke  from  over  a 
hundred  pipes.  Immense  long  tables  were  spread  out,  filled  with  great 
stone  jugs  and  long  beer  glasses  ;  the  students  were  talking,  shouting,  and 
drinking,  but  it  was  all  in  a  social  friendly  way,  and  the  beer  being  very 
weak,  none  were  in  especial  danger  of  growing  over-jolly. 

The  President  was  attired  in  the  ancient  German  costume,  which  set  off  to 
advantage  his  fine  person.  Mr.  Taylor  says  he  never  saw  in  any  company 
of  young  men  such  numbers  of  handsome  manly  countenances.  Some  time 
was  passed  in  talking  and  drinking,  with  now  and  then  an  air  from  a  band 
of  music,  when  the  president  called  all  to  order,  by  striking  with  the  hilt  of 
a  sword  upon  a  table  ;  upon  this,  all  united  in  one  of  their  glorious  songs  to  a 
joyous,  yet  solemn  melody,  their  manly  voices  swelling  out  like  a  hymn  of 
triumph.  "  Three  times  during  the  singing,"  says  he,  "  all  rose  up,  dashed 
their  glasses  together  around  the  tables,  and  drank  to  their  Fatherland,  a 
health  and  blessing  to  the  patriot,  and  honor  to  those  who  struggle  in  the 
cause  of  freedom,  at  the  close  thundering  out  their  motto, 

'  Fearless  in  strife — to  the  banner  still  true.' 

After  this  song  the  same  order  as  before  continued,  except  that  the  stu- 
dents from  the  different  societies  made  short  speeches,  accompanied  by  some 
toast  or  sentiment.  One  spoke  of  Germany,  predicting  that  all  her  dissensions 
would  be  overcome,  and  that  she  would  rise  at  last  like  a  phoenix  among  the 
nations  of  Europe,  and  at  the  close  gave,  *  s'-  ong,  united,  regenerated  Ger* 


IN  GERMANY.  419 

many  V     Instantly  all  sprang  to  their  feet,  and  dashing  the  glasses  together, 
gave  a  thundering  "  koch/" 

Finally,  the  tables  were  cleared,  and  all  united  in  the  most  solemn  of  their 
ceremonies,  the  singing  of  the  '  Lands/other,1  or  consecration  song."  Of  this 
we  annex  a  few  verses,  to  give  an  idea  of  its  lofty  and  patriotic  character. 

"  Silent  bending,  each  one  lending  *        *         *         *         *        *        * 

To  the  solemn  tones  his  ear,  "  Rest  the  Burschen,  feast  is  over, 

Hark  !  the  song  of  songs  is  sounding,  Hallowed  sword  and  thou  art  free  I 

Hear  it,  German  brothers,  hear  !"  Each  one  strive  a  valiant  lover 

Of  his  Fatherland  to  be  !" 
"  German  proudly,  raise  it  loudly, 

Singing  of  your  fatherland —  "  Hail  to  him,  who,  glory  haunted, 

Fatherland  !  thou  land  of  story,  Follows  still  his  fathers  bold; 

To  the  altars  of  thy  glory  And  the  sword  may  no  one  hold 

Consecrate  us,  sword  in  hand  !  But  the  noble  and  undaunted!" 

The  German  students  are  characterized  by  their  enthusiasm  for  their 
country.  Through  them,  mainly,  is  the  spirit  of  freedom  kept  alive ;  for  their 
Fatherland  they  are  ever  first  and  bravest  in  the  field,  and  through  them  will 
her  final  redemption  be  accomplished. 

Mr.  Taylor,  on  taking  his  leave  of  Heidelberg  for  a  longer  residence  at 
Frankfort,  proceeded  part  of  the  way  on  foot,  by  the  route  of  the  Odenwald, 
a  mountain  range,  that  stretches  most  of  the  way  between  the  two  cities. 
The  forest  scenery  reminded  him  of  America,  excepting  that  the  trees  were 
only  about  one-third  the  size  of  ours.  The  first  night,  the  young  man 
stopped  at  an  inn,  in  the  rude  little  dorf  or  village  of  Elsbach.  On  entering 
the  main  room,  they  found  a  group  of  peasant-girls,  just  in  from  work  in 
the  fields,  all  of  whom  were  dressed  in  men's  jackets,  short  gowns,  and  some 
had  long  hair  streaming  down  their  backs.  They  were  coarse  and  uninviting ; 
in  this  respect  contrasting  strongly  with  the  daughter  of  the  landlord,  a  beau- 
tiful girl  of  finely-chiseled  features,  and  as  modest  as  beautiful,  remind- 
ing young  Taylor  of  the  exquisite  poem  of  Uhland,  "  The  Landlady's 
Daughter." 

The  next  day,  entering  the  old  dorf  of  Beerfelden,  on  a  mountain  summit, 
they  found  it  filled  with  neighboring  farmers,  in  the  ancient  country  costume, 
blue  frock  coats,  and  broad  cocked  hats.  They  had  come  to  a  cattle  fair, 
and  as  they  passed  them  touched  their  hats,  according  to  the  custom  of  meet- 
ing travelers  in  Germany,  which  shows  the  kind,  friendly  feelings  of  these 
cheerful  people.  Groups  of  children  were  often  met,  among  the  mountains, 
singing  their  simple  ballads  as  they  went  skipping  along. 

From  Beerfelden,  they  passed  through  Erback,  the  principal  city  in  the 
Odenwald,  and  at  night  entered  the  only  inn  of  a  little  village,  kept  by  the 
Burgomaster.  The  people,  ascertaining  they  were  Americans,  crowded 
around  the  door,  peeped  into  the  windows,  and  watched  their  every  motion, 
with  an  intense  curiosity.  The  news  of  their  arrival  spread  all  over  the  little 
community,  and  evidently  to  their  benefit,  for  on  stopping  the  next  morning 
to  purchase  some  fruit,  a  short  distance  from  the  place,  a  farmer,  mounted  in 
one  of  the  trees,  called  out,  "  they  are  the  Americans  ;  give  them  as  many 
as  they  want  for  nothing."     Before  reaching  Darmstadt,  they  visited  the 


420  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

ruins  of  Rodenstein,  to  which  the  wild  Huntsman  was  wont  to  ride  at  mid« 
night,  according  to  the  the  romantic  tradition  which  is  implicitly  believed  by 
the  simple-hearted  peasants.  From  Darmstadt  they  took  an  omnibus,  and 
entered  Frankfort  after  dark. 

Frankfort  is  a  genuine  old  German  city,  founded  by  Charlemagne.  It  was 
a  rallying  point  for  the  Crusaders,  and  is  full  of  antiquities,  ancient,  quaint 
buildings,  and  is  attractive  to  the  historian,  to  the  lovers  of  romance  and  of 
old  legends. 

During  his  residence  of  several  months  in  the  city,  Mr.  Taylor  found  much 
to  interest  him.  The  street  below  his  window,  was  daily  filled  with  market- 
women,  with  their  baskets  of  vegetables  and  fruit,  where  they  were  accus- 
tomed to  sit  from  sunrise  to  sunset,  day  after  day,  and  year  after  year.  Some 
of  them  were  very  aged  ;  but  nevertheless,  appeared  as  tough  and  hardy  as 
so  many  old  seamen,  their  complexions  tanned  to  a  sole-leather  like  hue,  and 
their  movements  as  unwieldy  and  ungraceful  as  those  of  an  ox.  When  it 
rained  they  sat  in  large  wooden  boxes,  and  for  cooking,  and  for  warmth  used 
little  furnaces.  It  was  a  curious  spectacle  to  see  the  country-women  moving 
about  in  the  busy  throng,  in  their  jackets  and  short  gowns,  carrying  on  their 
heads  huge  loads,  often  a  yard  or  more  high.  Disputes  about  their  places 
often  occurred  in  the  morning  among  the  market-women,  calling  for  the  in- 
terposition of  the  police,  one  or  two  of  whom  were  generally  on  the  ground, 
to  settle  all  difficulties  on  these  interesting  occasions. 

At  Frankfort,  Mr.  Taylor  had  the  gratification  of  witnessing  the  festival  of 
Christmas,  which  is  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  of  all  the  German  fes- 
tivals. Four  weeks  beforehand  a  fair  was  commenced  in  the  Roemburg 
square,  where  booths,  ornamented  with  evergreens,  were  filled  with  a  variety 
of  toys,  and  a  perfect  "wilderness  of  playthings."  On  the  5th  of  December, 
it  being  St.  Nicholas'  evening,  the  booths  were  for  the  first  time  illuminated, 
and  the  place  crowded  with  a  joyous,  noisy  collection  of  little  folks,  accom- 
panied by  their  parents  and  nurses,  when  large  numbers  of  presents  were 
bought  for  the  approaching  festival,  and  also  branches  of  evergreens  to  be 
used  for  Christmas  trees.  Night  after  night,  additions  were  made  to  the 
booths  in  the  square,  until  it  resembled  an  illuminated  garden  of  evergreens, 
and  the  same  scenes  were  each  evening  acted  over.  In  the  meantime, 
Christmas  was  the  all-absorbing  topic  ;  each  secretly  prepared  their  presents. 
Finally,  the  preceding  day  arrived,  the  streets  were  almost  impassable  from 
the  crowds,  and  when  the  sun  had  sunk  in  the  west,  the  long-wished  for 
Christmas  Eve  had  come.  Mr.  Taylor  being  one  of  the  guests  in  a  German 
family,  was,  with  others,  some  half  a  dozen  little  folks  inclusive,  prohibited 
entering  the  rooms  above,  until  the  hour  when  Christ-kindechen  should  call. 
While  engaged  in  an  interesting  conversation,  a  bell  tinkled,  and  they  all 
rushed  up-stairs.  In  each  room  was  an  immense  table,  on  which,  amid 
flowers  and  wreaths,  the  presents  were  most  attractively  spread  out.  In  the 
center,  the  Christmas-tree  lifted  its  beautiful  boughs,  covered  with  illuminated 
wax  tapers  of  every  hue,  while  sweetmeats  and  gilded  nuts  hung  from  every 
branch.  Around  the  table  capered  the  children  in  great  glee,  hunting  their 
presents,  while  the  rest  had  theirs  pointed  out,  some  of  whom  got  costly  pre 


IN  GERMANY.  421 

sents,  and  Mr.  Taylor  quite  a  little  German  library.  As  each  one  discovered 
the  givers  he  embraced  them  in  turn,  and  it  was  an  exhibition  of  the  finest 
emotions.  This  old  custom  is  beautiful,  renewing  and  strengthening  the  at- 
tachment and  sympathy  between  families  and  friends,  and  leaving  a  pleasant 
impression  in  the  memory  of  the  past. 

On  New  Year's  Eve,  the  Christmas-tree  is  again  illuminated,  and  while  the 
remains  of  the  tapers  are  consuming,  the  family  play  for  the  articles  which 
they  have  brought  and  placed  upon  the  branches,  care  being  taken  that  each 
shall  win  as  much  as  he  loses — an  exchange  which  creates  a  fund  of  merri- 
ment. At  a  quarter  before  twelve,  all  the  windows  about  town  are  opened, 
and  the  moment  the  clock  strikes  the  midnight  hour,  everybody  in  the  houses, 
in  the  street,  and  over  the  whole  city,  to  the  number  of  30,000  or  40,000,  all 
at  once  shout  "  Prosst  New  Jahrf"  "I  wish  you  a  happy  New  Year." 
With  wishes  for  a  happy  New  Year  all  the  members  of  families  embrace  each 
other,  then  rushing  to  the  windows,  call  out  to  their  neighbors,  or  to  the  pas- 
sers-by in  the  streets,  then  crowded  with  people,  who  full  of  joviality  and 
good  feeling,  send  back  the  cry,  exchano^  it  with  others,  and  make  the  wel- 
kin ring  with  the  universal  wish  and  cheerful  songs.  Mr.  Taylor  and  com- 
panions joined  the  crowd  in  the  streets,  and  whenever  they  saw  a  damsel  at 
a  wfodvfr,  shouted  "Prosst  New  Jahr  !  "  when  the  words  were  returned  in 
the  soft  musical  tones  of  woman. 

In  the  beginning  of  March,  one  of  the  great  semi-annual'  fairs  came  off. 
Booths,  with  narrow  streets  between,  filled  the  squares,  and  merchants  from  all 
parts  of  Europe  had  collected  to  show  and  sell  their  wares,  making  a  brilliant 
and  dazzling  display.  Some  companies  of  Tyrolese  mountaineers,  with  their 
picturesque  costumes,  splendid  manly  figures,  attracted  Mr.  Taylor's  atten- 
tion. These,  with  the  throngs  of  people,  variety  of  faces,  and  the  costumes 
of  different  nations,  the  music  continually  rising  all  over  the  city,  from  nu- 
merous bands  of  wandering  minstrels,  was  a  pleasant  change  from  the  mo- 
notony that  had  begun  to  make  his  residence  in  the  city  somewhat  dull. 

Not  long  after  a  fire  broke  out  near  by.  Rushing  to  the  spot  our  young 
countryman  found  the  people  in  great  consternation,  some  ringing  their  hands 
and  others  crying.  One  engine  came,  and  soon  another,  and  then  the 
military.  It  was  a  scene  of  confusion  and  uproar,  and  sometime  elapsed 
before  the  engines,  miserable  little  affairs,  not  much  larger  than  hand-carts, 
could  operate.  The  water  was  brought  in  barrels  drawn  by  horses,  until  an 
officer  appeared  and  got  access  to  the  hydrant.  It  was  ludicrous  and  laugh- 
able enough  to  one  wTho  had  witnessed  how  fires  were  subdued  in  New  York, — 
the  horses  running  to  and  fro  hauling  barrels,  which  were  first  emptied  into 
tubs,  and  then  dipped  up  in  buckets,  and  turned  into  the  "  machines." 
After  a  space  of  four  hours,  the  house  being  burnt  out,  and  its  double  walls 
preventing  it  from  communicating  to  those  next,  the  fire  was  subdued. 

The  cemetery  at  Frankfort,  which  Mr.  Taylor  visited  just  before  his  de- 
parture, is  a  beautiful  place  in  summer ;  in  fact,  says  he,  "  the  very  name  of 
cemetery  in  German — Friedhof-  or  ■  Court  of  Peace' — takes  away  the  idea  of 
death."  Some  of  the  mottoes  on  the  tombstones  are  touching,  such  for 
instance  as,  "  Through  darkness  unto  light;"  "Weep  not  for  her;"  "  She  in  not 


422  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

dead  but  sleepeth;"  "  Slumber  sweet,"  etc.  He  mentions  also  a  singular  ap- 
pendage to  this  cemetry  which  is  known  only  in  Germany  ;  this  is  a  dead- 
house  in  which  bodies  are  put  in  the  hope  of  resuscitation.  It  is  a  small 
chamber  with  half  a  dozen  cells  on  a  side.  In  each  cell  is  a  bier  and  its 
body.  A  cord  is  suspended  above  each  body  which  is  attached  to  a  thimble 
on  each  of  the  fingers  of  the  corpse,  so  that  the  least  motion  communicates 
to  a  bell  in  the  watchman's  room.  The  place  is  lighted  at  night,  warmed  in 
winter,  and  in  adjoining  rooms  are  beds,  baths,  and  a  galvanic  battery.  It 
had  then  been  established  fifteen  years,  but  not  a  single  resuscitation  had 
taken  place. 

The  men  at  Frankfort,  like  the  Germans  generally,  appeared  to  Mr.  Taylor, 
calm,  cautious,  and  lethargic,  which  in  a  great  measure  may  be  ascribed  to 
the  despotic  nature  of  their  government,  but  the  boys,  like  youngsters  every- 
where, had  sprightly,  intelligent  faces  their  spirits  not  as  yet  bowed  down  by 
a  knowledge  of  the  nature  of  the  laws  under  which  they  lived.  He  often 
saw  Anselmo  Rothschild  the  most  celebrated  of  the  famous  brothers,  bankers. 
He  resides  in  Frankfort,  and  is  a  little,  old,  baldheaded,  avaricious  Jew.  He 
holds,  it  is  said,  a  mortgage  on  the  City  of  Jerusalem,  which  looks  like  a 
plan  on  his  part  for  the  final  restoration  of  his  race  to  the  Holy  trty,  and 
may  be  one  of  the  links  of  the  chain  of  circumstances  which,  under  c;.t  dis- 
pensation of  Providence,  tends  to  that  event. 

The  German  women,  Mr.  Taylor  thinks  deficient  in  intellectual  beauty  • 
the  number  of  positively  ugly  faces  among  them  astonished  him,  and  he  says 
he  has  seen  more  beautiful  women  in  one  night  in  an  American  assembly,, 
than  in  over  half  a  year's  residence  on  the  Continent. 

It  was  toward  the  close  of  April,  that  having  completed  his  preparations, 
our  young  traveler  mounted  his  knapsack  and  with  staff  in  hand  bade  adieu 
to  Frankfort,  and  commenced  his  lonejy  walk  through  Northern  Germany. 
Toiling  up  a  long  hill  on  the  road,  he  turned  and  took  a  last  look  at  the 
quaint  old  city  where  he  had  passed  so  many  pleasant  hours,  and  then  with 
saddened  feelings  pursued  his  route,  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land.  As  the 
sun  was  sinking  in  the  west,  he  reached  Friedburg,  where  he  passed  the 
night,  and  on  resuming  his  route  the  next  morning  was  hailed  by  a  wander- 
ing journeyman  or  handwerker,  who  wanted  company,  to  which  he  cheerfully 
acquiesced  and  they  both  trudged  along  together.  He  had  his  knapsack  and 
tools  fastened  on  wheels  which  he  drew  after  him  with  ease.  At  Geissen  he 
parted  with  his  companion,  and  beyond  entered  the  beautiful  valley  of  Lahn 
one  of  the  finest  districts  of  Germany.  Its  bright  green  meadows,  red  roofed 
cottages  nestled  among  gardens  and  orchards  together  with  the  peculiarly 
picturesque  costume  of  the  peasant  women  created  pleasant  sensations.  But 
from  these  peaceful  scenes  fathers  and  brothers  were  once  seized  by  a 
despotic  prince,  and  transported  across  the  ocean  to  battle  against  a  people 
struggling  for  liberty;  for  this  was  in  Hesse  Cassel,  the  home  of  the  Hessians, 
allies  of  Britain  in  our  country's  darkest  hour. 

Continuing  on  he  was  soon  in  the  heart  of  Hesse  Cassel,  where  the  country 
became  more  rolling,  but  still  as  beautiful  and  fresh  as  ever.  Occasionally 
he  halted  to  sketch  some  pleasant  scene,  or  to  rest  beneath  a  shady  bank. 


IN   GERMANY.  423 

with  his  knapsack  for  a  pillow,  and  gaze  upon  the  countenances  of  the  passers 
by.  The  observation  he  excited  was  at  first  extremely  unpleasant ;  but  he 
soon  became  so  accustomed  to  it,  "  that  the  strange,  magnetic  influence  of 
the  human  eye,  which  we  cannot  avoid  feeling,  was  shorn  of  its  power." 

The  April  showers  which  fell  occasionally  during  the  latter  part  of  the  day, 
not  penetrating  farther  than  his  blouse,  he  kept  on  and  at  sunset  entered  a 
neat  little  inn  in  a  small  village  in  the  valley,  when  the  tidy  landlady  greeting 
him  with  "  be  you  welcome"  brought  him  slippers  for  his  swollen  feet,  and 
giving  him  an  excellent  supper  of  eggs,  bread,  milk,  and  butter,  made  him 
feel  quite  at  home.  While  partaking  of  his  frugal  meal  with  a  traveler's  ap- 
petite, he  listened  to  an  animated  discussion  in  which  the  village  schoolmaster 
and  some  farmers  were  the  parties.  After  a  good  night's  rest  and  breakfast 
in  the  morning,  he  paid  his  landlady's  bill  6^-  groschen  or  about  sixteen 
cents,  and  started  off  over  the  hills  at  a  rapid  rate  in  the  direction  of  Cassel 
the  capital.  At  the  inn  where  he  dined  that  day  a  boy  inquired  if  he  was 
going  to  America.  He  told  him  no,  that  he  had  come  from  there,  upon 
which  the  little  fellow  ran  out  and  spread  the  news  all  over  the  village. 
When  he  resumed  his  journey  the  children  pointed  at  him  and  cried :  "  see 
there  !  he  is  from  America  !"  and  the  men  took  off  their  hats  and  bowed. 

When  about  five  miles  from  Cassel  the  night  set  in  with  a  dreary  rain  and 
he  entered  an  inn  by  the  way-side  and  called  for  supper.  In  the  meanwhile 
a  company  of  students  from  the  city  came  in,  and  noticing  that  he  was  alone, 
invited  him  to  their  room.  On  ascertaining  that  the  youthful  traveler  was 
an  American  they  became  much  interested,  and  gradually  gathered  around 
and  kept  him  very  busy  answering  their  questions  about  his  country.  All  of 
them  returned  to  the  city  by  an  omnibus,  except  five,  who  remained,  and 
persuaded  him  to  walk  with  them  to  town.  So  much  were  they  pleased  that 
they  would  not  allow  him  to  carry  his  knapsack,  but  each  bore  it  alternately 
all  the  way,  and  on  his  arrival  escorted  him  to  a  comfortable  hotel. 

The  next  morning  two  of  his  new  acquaintances  called  to  show  him  the  city, 
and  in  the  afternoon  conducted  him  to  Wilhelmshohe,  the  summer  residence 
of  the  prince,  on  the  side  of  a  mountain-range,  an  hour's  walk  from  the  city. 
It  is  a  magnificent  mansion,  with  grounds  highly  ornamented  with  many 
objects  of  curiosity  in  its  vicinity.  While  there  Mr.  Taylor  was  shown  a  few 
small  houses  occupied  by  descendants  of  the  Hessians  killed  in  America,  sup- 
ported here  by  the  prince. 

To  one  of  his  new  student  acquaintances,  Carl  K ,  our  youthful  traveler 

became  much  attached.  His  constant,  generous  attention  and  kindness  first 
won  his  esteem,  and  a  closer  acquaintance  revealed  an  intellect  of  a  high  ordei 
He  showed  him  some  beautiful  poems  of  his  own  composition  of  unusuai 
merit,  and  he  thought  he  could  "  see  in  his  dark  dreamy  eye  the  unconscious 
presentiment  of  a  power  that  would  one  day  place  his  among  "  the  few  im- 
mortal names  not  born  to  die."  Such  was  their  congeniality  of  feelings  and 
tastes  that  our  traveler  felt  as  if,  instead  of  having  known  him  a  few  hours 
only,  his  acquaintance  had  endured  for  years.  "  On  taking  leave  of  Carl,  at 
the  gate  over  the  Gottingen  road,"  says  he,  '*  I  felt  tempted  to  bestow  a  ma- 
lediction upon  traveling,  from  its   merciless  breaking  of  all  links  as  soou 


424  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

as  formed.  It  was  painful  to  think  we  should  meet  no  more  ;  the  tear3 
started  into  his  eyes,  and  feeling  a  mist  gathering  over  mine,  I  gave  his  hand  a 
parting  pressure,  turned  my  back  upon  Cassel,  and  started  up  the  mountain 
at  a  desperate  rate." 

That  night  he  rested  in  Munden,  a  little,  old  red-roofed  German  city,  with 
narrow,  crooked  streets,  and  full  of  ugly  old  houses,  with  its  walls  similar  to 
those  which  surrounded  all  the  cities  of  the  feudal  times,  still  staricnng, 
although  very  ruinous.  From  thence  he  had  a  dreary  ride  in  an  omnibus 
through  a  wild  and  monotonous  country,  to  Gottingen,  where  he  arrived  with 
strong  symptoms  of  fever,  the  penalty  of  over  exertion  from  walking. 
Mounting  his  knapsack,  he  proceeded  wearily  through  several  streets,  and  en- 
tered the  first  inn  ;  but  finding  it  dirty  and  dismal,  he  paid  a  pleasant-looking 
boy  he  met  to  go  with  him  to  a  good  hotel,  which  happened  to  be  the  best  in 
the  place.  "  I  felt,"  says  he,  "  a  trepidation  in  my  pocket,  but  my  throbbing 
head  pleaded  more  powerfully,  so  I  ordered  a  comfortable  room  and  a  phy- 
sician." A  professor  of  the  university  was  called  in  :  on  his  inquiring,  as  he 
was  leaving,  after  a  second  and  last  call,  what  he  should  pay,  the  latter 
begged  to  be  excused,  and  bowing  politely,  left.  On  asking  of  the  landlord 
an  explanation  of  this,  he  replied,  that  physicians  charged  no  regular  fee  to 
travelers,  leaving  it  to  their  generosity,  but  that  twenty  groschen,  or  about 
sixty  cents  would  amply  suffice  for  the  two  visits  ! 

Two  days  later  he  was  in  the  midst  of  the  wildest  scenery  of  the  Hartz 
mountains.  Alone  and  on  foot,  he  was  toiling  up  the  famous  Brocken,  in 
the  midst  of  a  furious  storm  of  mingled  rain  and  snow.  At  length  he  came 
to  a  place  where  the  forest  ceased,  and  the  way  was  over  a  broken,  stony,  as- 
cending plain  ;  but  above,  or  on  either  side,  he  could  not  see.  It  was  an 
awful  solitude — nothing  but  the  storm  and  the  bleak  gray  waste  of  rocks. 
The  mountain  grew  more  and  more  steep  ;  he  could  scarcely  trace  his  way, 
and  the  wind  was  terrific.  Already  wet  through,  he  began  to  fear  that  he 
could  stand  the  exposure  but  a  little  longer,  when,  on  the  very  summit  of  the 
mountain,  the  Brocken  house  suddenly  rose  up  before  him,  and  in  a  few  mo- 
ments more  he  had  entered  the  mansion,  was  greeted  by  two  large  Alpine 
dogs  in  the  passage,  met  with  a  hearty  welcome  from  the  landlord,  and  hav- 
ing effected  a  change  of  clothing,  was  seated  before  a  good  warm  fire  enjoy- 
ing sensations  of  a  most  comfortable  nature. 

The  Brocken  is  the  highest  mountain  in  northern  Germany;  from  its  sum- 
mit is  a  most  magnificent  prospect,  commanding  a  view  of  a  vast  extent  of 
country,  dotted  with  thirty  cities,  and  two  or  three  hundred  villages.  This 
district  is  the  cradle  of  innumerable  German  legends  and  superstitions,  and 
the  Brocken  has  long  enjoyed  the  reputation  of  being  haunted.  Here  witches 
and  evil  spirits  celebrate  with  unholy  orgies,  and  the  headless  horseman  is 
seen  galloping  on  his  fiery  charger  among  the  dark  cliffs  and  tangled  ravines 
of  the  mountain.  The  curious  optical  phenomenon,  called  the  Specter  of  ike 
Brocken  occasionally  seen  from  this  spot,  has  doubtless  strengthened  the  be- 
lief of  its  being  haunted.  It  appears  at  sunset  or  sunrise,  whenever  the  mist 
happens  to  ascend  perpendicularly  out  of  the  valley  on  the  side  opposite  to 
the  sun,  and  leave  the  mountain  top  itself  free  from  vapor.     The  shadow  oi 


IN  GERMANY.  425 

the  mountain  is  reflected  against  the  perpendicular  face  of  the  rising  vapor, 
as  it  were  against  a  wall  of  gigantic  dimensions.  The  inn  then  becomes  a 
palace  in  size,  and  the  human  beings  on  the  summit  appear  like  giants.  The 
size  of  the  figures  increase  or  diminish,  as  the  fog  is  driven  farther  from,  or 
nearer  to,  the  top  of  the  Brocken,  by  the  wind.  "  If  the  fog  is  very  dry,  you 
see  not  only  yourself,  but  your  neighbor — if  very  damp,  yourself  only — 
surrounded  by  a  rainbow-colored  glory,  which  becomes  more  lustrous  and 
beautiful  the  damper  and  thicker  the  fog  is,  and  the  nearer  it  approaches. 

Unfortunately  for  our  traveler  the  weather  was  not  propitious  for  a  good 
view  of  the  glorious  prospect  from  this  spot.  Once  or  twice  the  clouds  parted 
slightly,  and  disclosed  momentary  glimpses  of  the  blue  plains,  dotted  witk 
cities  and  villages  far  below.  A  mountain  girl,  before  he  left,  as  is  the  cus- 
tom, presented  him  "  a  Brocken  nosegay"  of  heather,  lichens,  and  moss, 
which  he  stowed  away  carefully  in  his  knapsack,  as  a  memento. 

He  descended  the  east  side  of  the  mountain,  got  lost  in  one  of  the  wildest 
and  loneliest  corners  of  the  Hartz,  and,  on  the  evening  of  the  second  day, 
half-dead  with  fatigue,  put  up  at  "  a  ghostly,  dark  and  echoing  castle  of  an 
inn,"  enough  to  send  a  thrill  of  terror  to  a  lonely  traveler  like  him.  Its 
inmates  were  in  keeping  with  its  gloomy  character.  When  he  retired,  his 
conductor,  taking  a  dim  light,  led  him  down  the  steps  of  an  arched  gateway, 
through  a  long,  damp,  deserted  court-yard,  to  a  small,  solitary  stone  build- 
ing, the  door  of  which  was  opened  with  a  rusty  key,  and  then  left  him  in  a 
miserable  closet-like  room,  destitute  of  everything  but  a  rough  bed.  The 
place  was  mouldy,  the  walls  cold  and  damp,  and  the  bed  coarse  and  dirty: 
On  turning  down  its  ragged  covers,  he  discovered,  with  horror,  on  the  sheet, 
a  stain  like  blood  !  For  a  moment  he  hesitated  whether  to  steal  out,  but  he 
conquered  his  fears,  and  putting  his  staff  by  the  bed,  ready  for  defense,  laid 
down.  Several  times  he  was  disturbed  by  footsteps  near,  and  heard  voices 
which  appeared  to  be  close  to  his  door.  Twice  he  sat  up  in  his  bed,  and 
seizing  his  cane,  listened  in  breathless  anxiety.  "  In  reality,"  says  he,  "  there 
may  have  been  no  cause  for  my  fears — I  may  have  wronged  the  lonely  inn- 
keeper by  them  ;  but  certainly  no  place  or  circumstances  ever  seemed  to  me 
more  appropriate  to  a  deed  of  robbery  or  crime." 

At  Halberstadt,  he  took  the  rail-road,  which  passed  over  a  monotonous 
country,  for  Leipsic,  which  was  reached  in  six  hours'  traveling.  On  the 
route  is  the  old  town  of  Magdeburg,  in  the  citadel  of  which  the  famous  Baron 
Trenck  was  confined.  Leipsic  is  a  manufacturing  town — a  great  commercial 
mart  and  among  the  first  cities  in  Europe.  Particularly  is  it  noted  for  its 
three  great  annual  fairs,  each  lasting  fourteen  days,  and  attended  by  people 
from  all  parts  of  Europe.  It  is  the  greatest  book-making  and  book-selling 
place  in  the  world  ;  book  stores  fill  the  streets,  and  half  the  business  of  the 
people  seems  to  consist  in  printing,  paper-making,  and  binding,  and  as  a 
consequence  the  social  and  intellectual  character  of  the  citizens  stands  high. 
It  was  in  the  neighborhood,  on  the  16th,  17th,  18th  October,  1813,  that 
the  great  battle  of  Leipsic  was  fought,  which  broke  the  power  of  Napoleon, 
and  freed  Germany  from  the  yoke  of  France.  The  army  of  Napoleon, 
192,000  strong,  curved  around  the  southern  and  eastern  sides  of  the  city, 


426  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

while  the  allied  forces,  300,000  in  number,  occupied  the  plain  beyond.  The 
thunder  of  1,600  cannon  boomed  forth  in  this  deadly  conflict  of  half  a  million 
of  men,  and  upon  the  vast  plain  lay  over  50,000  dead. 

At  Leipsic,  Mr.  Taylor  was  rejoined  by  his  cousin,  the  latter  having  taken 
a  more  circuitous  route  from  Frankfort,  by  way  of  Nuremberg  and  the  Thu- 
ringian  forests  ;  they  afterward  continued  in  company.  Among  the  lovely 
walks  around  Leipsic  is  that  to  the  Rosenthal,  a  beautiful  meadow,  bordered 
by  forests  of  German  oak.  Here  they  saw  picturesque  Swiss  cottages  em- 
bowered in  the  foliage,  where,  afternoons,  the  social  citizens  forsake  the  dusty 
streets,  and  assemble  to  drink  their  coffee,  and  recreate  from  the  cares  of 
business.  They  visited  the  little  village  of  Golis,  near  by,  where,  in  a  little 
house,  still  standing,  dwelt  the  celebrated  Schiller.  A  stone  arch  erected 
over  the  entrance  to  the  room  he  occupied,  bears  the  inscription,  "  Here  dwelt 
Schiller  in  1795,  and  wrote  his  hymn  to  joy."  "  Everywhere  through  Ger- 
many, "  says  Mr.  Taylor,  "  the  remembrances  of  Schiller  are  sacred.  In  every 
city  where  he  lived  they  show  his  dwelling.  They  know  and  reverence  the 
mighty  spirit  which  has  been  among  them.  The  little  room  where  he  con- 
ceived that  sublime  poem  is  hallowed  as  if  by  the  presence  of  unseen  spirits." 

A  three  hours'  ride  by  rail-road  carried  them  over  the  eighty  miles  of 
plain  that  separates  Leipsic  and  Dresden.  This  latter  town,  the  capital  of 
the  kingdom  of  Saxony,  is  delightfully  situated  in  a  curve  of  the  Elbe,  and 
beside  the  charming  beauty  of  its  environs,  is  attractive  from  its  glorious 
galleries  of  art.  Here  Mr.  Taylor  saw  Raphael's  celebrated  picture  of 
the  Madonna  and  Child,  and  was  so  filled  with  love  and  admiration,  that, 
when  he  left,  he  felt  sad  to  think  he  should  never  behold  it  again.  He  says, 
"it  has  somewhat  faded  during  the  three  hundred  years  that  have  rolled  away 
since  the  hand  of  Raphael  worked  upon  its  canvas.  The  wild  prophetic  eye 
and  lofty  brow  of  the  young  Jesus  chains  one  like  a  spell.  There  is  something 
more  than  mortal  in  its  expression — something  in  the  infant  face  which  indi- 
cates a  power  mightier  than  the  proudest  manhood.  There  is  no  glory  around 
the  head,  but  the  spirit  which  shines  from  those  features  marks  his  Divinity. 
In  the  sweet  face  of  the  mother  there  speaks  a  sorrowful  foreboding  mixed 
with  its  tenderness,  as  if  she  knew  the  world  into  which  the  Savior  was  born, 
and  foresaw  the  path  in  which  he  was  to  tread.  It  is  a  picture  which  one  can 
scarcely  look  upon  without  tears." 

They  visited  also,  the  battle-field  at  Dresden,  where  the  hero  Moreau  fell  ; 
the  Royal  Library,  containing  300,000  volumes,  and  the  "  Green  Gallery," 
an  unsurpassed  collection  of  jewels  and  costly  articles,  and  curiosities  of  art, 
amounting  to  millions  and  millions  in  value.  As  they  entered  one  of  the 
rooms,  they  were  perfectly  dazzled  by  the  glare  of  splendor.  "  It  was  all 
gold,  diamonds,  ruby,  and  sapphire.  Every  case  sent  out  such  a  glow  and 
glitter,  that  it  seemed  like  a  cage  of  imprisoned  lightnings.  Wherever  the 
eye  turned,  it  was  met  by  a  blaze  of  broken  rainbows." 

After  remaining  four  days  in  Dresden,  Mr.  Taylor  and  his  companion 
again  strapped  on  their  knapsacks,  and  started  off  in  fine  spirits,  "  en  route" 
for  Prague.  In  two  hours  they  reached  Pillnitz,  the  seat  of  the  palace  and 
gardens  of  the  King  of  Saxony,  who  happened  as  they  were  passing,  to  be 


IN  GERMANY.  427 

there.  He  was  a  tall,  benevolent-looking  man,  and  apparently  beloved  by  his 
subjects,  who  are  noted  all  over  Germany  for  their  honesty  and  social  qualities. 
Their  course  lay  down  the  Elbe,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  the  villages  were 
unusually  neat  and  clean,  the  meadows  fresh  and  blooming,  and  the  people 
kind  and  friendly,  reminding  our  travelers  of  the  words  of  the  old  German 
ballad— 

"  The  fairest  kingdom  on  the  earth, 
It  is  the  Saxon  land  !" 

Early  next  morning,  they  discerned  through  the  blue  mists,  the  mountain 
of  Konigstein,  rising  from  the  banks  of  the  Elbe,  over  a  thousand  feet,  and 
crowned  by  an  impregnable  fortress,  of  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference, 
within  which  are  gardens,  fields,  forest-trees,  and  a  little  village.  It  was  the 
only  spot  unconquered  by  the  enemy  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  and  in 
that  with  Napoleon  ;  hence,  in  times  of  danger,  the  royal  archives  and  trea- 
sures are  deposited  within  it.  They  entered  the  fortress  by  a  road  cut  through 
the  rock,  the  only  place  by  which  admittance  can  be  obtained.  The  guide, 
during  their  walk,  pointed  out  a  small  square  tower,  just  below  which,  was  a 
narrow  ledge,  about  two  feet  wide,  on  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  He  told 
them  that  a  German  baron,  in  the  reign  of  Augustus  the  Strong,  having 
passed  the  night  in  revelry,  got  up  while  asleep,  stepped  out  of  the  window, 
and  stretched  himself  at  full  length  on  the  brink  of  the  abyss.  Luckily,  he 
was  seen  by  a  guard,  who  informed  the  king,  when  the  latter  had  him  bound, 
and  then  awakened  by  the  soft  strains  of  music. 

From  this  place  our  young  travelers  passed  through  the  little  town  of 
Konigstein  to  Schandau,  the  capital  of  the  Saxon  Highlands.  Beyond  this, 
on  turning  up  a  little  narrow  rock-bound  valley,  through  which  were  inter- 
spersed rustic  cottages,  they  saw  the  mountain-maidens,  attired  in  bright 
scarlet  dresses,  and  fancy-colored  scarfs  bound  around  their  heads.  Pleased 
with  the  spot,  and  full  of  good  feeling,  they  sat  down  to  rest  in  a  quiet  se- 
cluded nook,  and  made  the  little  valley  ring  with  cheers  for  their  native  land. 

As  they  advanced,  the  country  grew  more  and  more  wild,  and  after  a  day  or 
two  of  enjoyment  among  the  mountains,  they  crossed  the  Elbe,  for  the  sixth 
and  last  time,  and  soon  after  entered  Neidergrund,  in  Bohemia,  the  first  Aus- 
trian village.  Their  passports  having  been  here  examined,  they  walked  on 
several  miles  in  company  with  others.  Soon  as  they  had  crossed  the  Austrian 
border,  they  saw  a  sudden  change  in  their  companions  ;  they  seemed  anxious, 
and  if  our  young  Americans  chanced  to  allude  to  the  state  of  the  country, 
they  cautiously  looked  around,  lest  they  should  be  overheard,  and  at  once 
changed  the  topic,  if  nearing  any  of  the  laborers  at  work  on  the  road. 

Bohemia  is  comprised  in  a  large  valley,  surrounded  on  every  side  by  lofty 
mountains.  The  majority  of  its  people  are  of  Sclavonic  origin,  and  among 
the  most  faithful  subjects  of  Austria.  Mr.  Taylor  found  the  scenery  most 
lovely;  on  every  side  were  high  blue  mountains,  sweet  pastoral  valleys,  and 
romantic  old  ruins,  all  of  which  were  associated  with  the  wild  legends  of  the 
dark  ages.  He  had  left  the  civilized  Saxon  race,  and  saw  around  him  the 
features  and  language  of  one  of  those  rude  Sclavonic  tribes,  whose  ancestors 
once  roamed  amid  the  vast  steppes  of  the  Asiatic  continent. 


4l>g  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

Passing  by  the  battle-field  of  Kulm,  they  entered  Tepliiz,  situated  in  & 
lovely  valley,  and  famous  for  its  baths,  and  on  ascending  a  lofty  mountain 
beyond,  they  were  kindly  saluted  by  the  peasants  whom  they  met,  with 
"Christ  greet  you  !  "  The  next  day  they  were  in  comfortable  quarters,  in  the 
semi-barbaric,  semi-Asiatic  city  of  Prague,  the  capital  of  Bohemia,  and  a 
town  of  130,000  inhabitants. 

The  young  men  felt  as  if  they  were  in  another  world,  while  rambling 
through  the  winding  streets  of  this  strange,  fantastic,  yet  beautiful  old  city, 
which,  from  the  Byzantine  architecture  of  many  of  its  churches  and  towers, 
has  an  oriental  aspect.  From  the  heights  on  which  stands  the  palace  of  the 
Bohemian  kings,  west  of  the  city,  they  had  a  fine  prospect  of  the  spires  and 
towers  of  Prague,  and  of  the  Moldau,  inclosing  green  islands,  and  curving 
about  in  graceful  forms,  until  lost  to  view  amid  encircling  hills. 

The  old  bridge  across  the  Moldau  is  five  or  six  centuries  old,  and  was  over 
a  century  in  building.  Among  the  groups  of  saints  and  martyrs,  which  clus- 
tered on  every  pier,  is  a  statue  of  "Johannes  of  Nepomuck,"  a  priest,  whc 
lived  many  centuries  since,  and  is  now  the  patron  saint  of  Bohemia.  He 
was  a  confessor  to  one  of  the  queens,  and  because  he  refused  to  reveal  to  the 
king  the  secrets  she  had  confessed,  he  had  him  cast  from  the  bridge  into  the 
Moldau,  where,  according  to  the  legend,  the  body  floated  a  long  time,  with  a 
cluster  of  stars  encircling  its  head.  In  passing  this  statue,  and  the  many 
other  shrines  and  statues  in  the  city,  the  passers-by  always  uncover  their 
heads,  and  make  the  sign  of  the  cross.  Near  the  town  is  an  eminence,  on 
which  a  chapel  has  been  erected,  on  the  place  where  Protestantism  was 
crushed  in  Bohemia  by  the  sword.  To  this  spot,  the  deluded  Bohemian  pea- 
santry make  pilgrimages,  as  though  it  were  holy  ground. 

For  the  first  two  days  after  leaving  Prague  for  Vienna,  their  route  led  over 
wide  lofty  plains,  across  which,  cold,  cutting  winds  swept  from  the  distant 
snow-clad  mountains.  The  people  on  these  ridges  were  miserably  poor,  and 
during  the  severe  winters  of  this  elevated  region,  suffered  much  from  cold, 
it  being  almost  impossible  to  procure  firewood,  the  few  forests  that  exist,  being 
monopolized  by  the  noblemen.  They  occasionally  saw  the  stately  castles  of 
these  petty  despots,  usually  on  commanding  situations,  and  contrasting 
strongly  with  the  poor  isolated  villages  of  their  peasantry.  They  were  now  in 
the  heart  of  Bohemia,  the  people  of  which  are  devoted  Catholics.  As  they 
journeyed  on,  they  passed,  every  few  rods,  a  shrine  or  statue  :  and  Mr.  Tay- 
lor found  the  worship  of  images  carried  on  to  an  extent  of  which  he  had  no 
previous  conception,  and  in  speaking  of  these  things,  he  says,  "  there  is  some- 
thing pleasing,  as  well  as  poetical,  in  the  idea  of  a  shrine  by  the  way-side, 
where  the  weary  traveler  can  rest,  and  raise  his  heart  in  thankfulness  to  the 
power  that  protects  him."  These  representations,  however,  were  so  miser- 
ably executed,  so  ghastly  and  shocking,  as  to  excite  in  him  emotions  of  hor- 
ror, rather  than  reverence.  The  images  of  Christ,  usup.'ly,  had  swords 
piercing  them.  An  old  man,  with  a  bishop's  mitre,  represented  the 
Almighty,  while  the  Virgin  appeared  as  a  gayly  dressed  woman,  bedecked 
with  a  profusion  of  ornaments.  On  passing  these,  the  poor  peasants  always 
uncovered  and  crossed  themselves.     He  mentions  a  beautiful  and  touching 


IN  GERMANY.  429 

custom  of  these  people.  When  the  church  bell  sounded  the  morning,  noon, 
and  evening  chimes,  every  one  within  hearing  uncovered,  and  offered  up  a 
prayer.  "  Would,"  exclaims  he,  "  that  to  this  innate  spirit  of  reverence  were 
added  the  light  of  knowledge,  which  a  tyrannical  government  denies 
them  !  " 

On  the  fourth  morning,  they  passed  through  the  old  Moravian  city  of  Iglau, 
and  in  this  vicinity,  and  indeed  throughout  Bohemia,  saw  some  singular 
teams.  Instead  of  oxen  or  horses,  dogs  were  frequently  used  to  draw  the 
peasants'  carts.  Sometimes  they  saw  a  donkey  and  a  cow  in  harness  together, 
at  others,  a  dog  and  a  donkey,  on  which  latter  occasions,  the  time  of  the 
driver  was  apt  to  be  alternately  occupied  with  beating  the  dog,  to  prevent  him 
from  biting  the  donkey,  and  in  whipping  the  donkey  away  from  the  grass,  by 
the  roadside.  Once,  they  saw  a  man  comfortably  seated  smoking  his  pipe  in 
a  wagon  which  was  drawn  by  a  dog,  and  pushed  behind  by  his  wife.  But 
the  climax  of  all,  was  a  woman  and  a  dog  harnessed  together,  on  the  way  to 
market,  with  a  load  of  produce.  The  condition  of  woman  here,  is  very  de- 
graded ;  hundreds  of  them  were  passed  on  the  road,  breaking  stone. 

In  the  latter  part  of  the  day  they  were  overtaken  by  a  traveling  handwerker 
or  mechanic,  who  was  going  to  Vienna.  They  had  walked  on  conversing 
together  for  several  miles  without  his*  suspecting  they  were  not  his  fellow- 
countrymen.  At  length  he  casually  spoke  of  the  exquisite  beauty  of  some 
American  vessels  he  had  seen  at  Trieste.  "  Yes,"  replied  Mr.  Taylor,  "our 
vessels  are  admired  all  over  the  world."  Upon  this  he  stared  at  Mr.  Taylor 
without  understanding.  "  Your  vessels  ?"  "  our  country's,"  rejoined  the 
other;  "we  are  Americans."  "  You  Americans?"  cried  he  with  an  ex- 
pression of  amazement  and  incredulous  astonishment,  "it  is  impossible  !" 
To  his  great  joy  they  convinced  him,  for  every  where  in  Germany  there  is  a 
kindly  feeling  toward  Americans  and  a  great  curiosity  to  see  them.  "  I  shall 
write  down  in  my  book,"  said  he,  "  so  that  I  never  shall  forget  it,  that  I  once 
traveled  with  two  Americans."  From  this  grew  out  a  lengthened  conversa- 
tion, in  which  he  told  them  of  the  oppressive  laws  of  Austria;  and  while  nar- 
rating the  horrors  of  the  system  of  conscription,  and  the  degrading  vassalage 
of  the  peasants,  he  stopped  for  a  moment  as  if  buried  in  deep  reflection  and 
then  with  a  suppressed  sigh  looked  at  Mr.  Taylor  and  inquired:  "Is  it  true 
that  America  is  free  ?"  Upon  this  the  other  described  our  country  and  her 
institutions,  and  informed  him  that  we  enjoyed  far  more  liberty  tl*m  anv 
other  country  in  the  world.  "Ah  !"  rejoined  the  poor  fellow,  "it  is  hard  to 
leave  one's  fatherland,  oppressed  as  it  is,  but  I  wish  I  cozdd  go  to  America.''' 

The  three  young  men  stopped  for  the  night  at  an  inn  in  a  beggarly  little 
village,  and  found  difficulty  in  procuring  supper  and  lodging,  as  a  regiment 
of  Polish  lancers  in  the  Austrian  service  were  quartered  there. 

In  the  course  of  the  next  day  they  crossed  the  ridge  which  separates 
the  waters  of  the  Elbe  from  the  Danube,  and  put  up  for  the  night  at  Znaim, 
the  Moravian  capital.  Next  morning  the  sun  rose  clear  and  glorious,  and  as 
they  neared  the  Danube  the  country  opened  beautifully  before  them,  inter- 
spersed with  vine-clad  hills,  and  rich  valleys  ;  here  and  there,  glimpses  were 
caught  of  little  white  villages  enveloped  in  fruit  trees  in  blossom.     At  length 


430  W1NDERINGS   OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

far  to  the  south-west  a  long  range  of  faint,  silvery  summits,  glistening  with 
snow  burst  upon  their  vision,  when  the  hearts  of  the  young  Americans 
bounded  with  rapture  at  this  their  first  view  of  the  Alps.  Gradually  de- 
scending the  elevated  country  upon  which  they  were  traveling,  they  lost  sight 
of  this  sublime  vision,  and  entered  upon  the  rich  plain  of  the  Danube,  covered 
with  grain  and  in  all  the  glory  of  summer.  They  soon  crossed  the  last  bridge 
over  "  the  dark  rolling  Danube,"  and  entered  upon  a  sort  of  island  shaded 
with  pleasant  groves  of  silver  ash.  The  place  was  filled  with  gay  prome- 
nades ;  booths  of  refreshments  were  scattered  about,  and  strains  of  music 
filled  the  air.  From  this  vicinity  a  wide  street  bounded  by  elegant  residences 
reached  into  the  center  of  a  city,  and  through  this,  crowded  with  multitudes, 
some  in  carriages  and  some  on  foot  going  to  these  delightful  groves,  they 
entered  the  capital  of  the  Austrian  Empire. 

Vienna  has  been  the  scene  of  many  historical  events.  In  1271  it  was 
taken  by  the  Emperor  Frederick,  and  again  by  Rudolph  I,  in  1297.  It  was 
vainly  besieged  by  the  Hungarians  in  1477,  but  was  obliged  to  surrender 
eight  years  after  to  Matthias  king  of  Hungary  and  Bohemia.  In  1783  it  was 
again  besieged  and  closely  invested  by  the  Turks,  under  Kara  Mustapha, 
and  relieved  at  last  only  by  the  arrival  of  a  Polish  army  under  John  Sobieski, 
who  defeated  the  Turks  with  great  slaughter  under  the  very  walls  of  the 
city.  The  head  of  Mustapha  is  still  exhibited  to  visitors  at  the  arsenal.  In 
1805  and  again  in  1809  it  surrendered  to  Napoleon.  Six  miles  east  of  the 
city  is  the  island  of  Lobau,  in  the  Danube,  where  the  French  were  encamped 
for  six  weeks;  and  opposite  to  it,  near  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  are  the 
villages  of  Aspern,  Essling,  and  Wagram,  where  were  fought  the  desperate 
battles  which  at  that  time  decided  the  fate  of  the  Austrian  Empire. 

The  city  proper  is  small  compared  with  the  suburbs.  The  strong  fortifica- 
tions which  formerly  surrounded  it,  have  been  razed  and  converted  into  lofty 
gardens  which  afford  delightful  promenades.  Beside  these  are  the  Imperial 
Gardens  with  their  cool  shades,  flowers  and  fountains,  the  Augarten,  and  last 
the  Prater,  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  of  all ;  this  is  the  island  previously 
alluded  to,  in  the  Danube.  It  is  covered  with  splendid  forest  trees,  and 
verdant  lawns,  through  which  wind  broad  carriage  roads,  arched  over 
and  completely  shaded  by  horse-chestnuts.  In  any  fine  summer  afternoon 
the  beauty  and  nobility  of  the  city  may  be  seen  whirling  through  the  cool 
shades  in  splendid  equipages,  and  numberless  pedestrians  thronging  the  walks. 
Countless  booths  and  cafes  are  scattered  about,  which  on  these  occasions  are 
crowded  with  many  pleasure  seekers.  The  common  people  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  come  here  in  throngs.  Deer,  perfectly  tame,  bound  in  herds  through 
the  woods,  and  it  is  a  pleasant  sight,  when  they  recline  upon  the  green  lawn 
to  see  the  little  children  playing  beside  them.  On  a  fine  summer's  night 
it  is  alive  with  the  gay  crowds  who  have  forsaken  the  dusty  city  for  a  few 
hours'  relaxation.  "It  is  this  free,  social  life,"  says  our  traveler,  "which 
renders  Vienna  so  attractive  to  foreigners  and  draws  yearly  thousands  of 
visitors  from  all  parts  of  Europe."     It  is  called  the  Paris  of  Germany. 

Vienna,  with  its  suburbs,  contains  nearly  half  a  million  of  souls.  The 
Altstadt,  the  city  proper,  possesses  the  most  prominent  object  of  interest  or 


IN  GERMANY.  431 

importance — the  palace,  the  offices  of  government,  the  residences  of  the 
higher  classes,  the  museums,  libraries,  galleries,  etc. 

The  Imperial  Palace  is  an  immense  building,  of  rare  beauty.  The  cathe- 
drals are  magnificent,  and  that  of  St.  Stephens,  one  of  the  first  specimens 
of  Gothic  architecture  in  Germany,  has  a  tower  nearly  twice  as  lofty  as  that 
of  the  most  elevated  church  spire  in  our  country.  The  Belvidere  Gallery 
fills  thirty-five  halls,  and  contains  three  thousand  paintings,  and  beside  this, 
several,  but  little  less  splendid  belong  to  princes  and  noblemen  in  the  city. 
The  Imperial  Library  has  over  300,000  volumes,  and  16,000  manuscripts. 
It  is  contained  in  a  hall  of  great  splendor,  in  the  center  of  which  stands  a 
marble  statue  of  Charles  V,  of  Hapsburg.  Brilliant  fresco  paintings  adorn 
the  ceiling  and  dome,  and  the  walls  are  of  variegated  marble  and  richly  gilded. 
It  seemed  familiar  to  our  young  pedestrians  to  be  in  a  large  bustling  city  once 
more,  with  its  streets  thronged  with  people,  reminding  them  of  the  never- 
ending  crowds  of  their  own  busy  New  York. 

The  morning  after  their  arrival  they  sallied  out  to  view  this  Austrian  city. 
They  found  the  streets  filled  with  people,  among  them  dark  eyed  Greeks, 
Turks  in  their  turbans  and  flowing  robes,  Italians  peddling  oranges,  and  little 
brown  Hungarian  boys  selling  flowers.  The  shops  were  frequently  splendid, 
and  being  fitted  up  with  great  taste,  made  a  dazzling  display.  The  town 
being  like  all  cities  of  continental  Europe,  destitute  of  side-walks,  it  required 
constant  care  to  avoid  being  run  over  by  the  numberless  carriages 
and  moving  vehicles  of  various  kinds.  They  passed  several  days  in  Vienna 
in  visiting  its  many  curiosities  and  rich  collections  of  art.  One  of  the  most 
interesting  places  they  entered  was  the  Imperial  Armory.  Around  the  wall 
on  the  inside  is  hung  an  enormous  chain  nearly  a  mile  in  length.  In  the  year 
1529  the  Turks,  who  had  at  that  time  possession  of  the  heart  of  Hungary, 
stretched  this  chain  across  the  Danube  at  Buda  to  arrest  the  navigation. 
They  were  conducted  through  the  various  halls  in  company  with  a  crowd  of 
forty  or  fifty  others  by  a  crusty  old  guide  ;  he  was  so  Very  overbearing  and 
supercilious  in  his  conduct  to  the  visitors  that  a  tall  dignified  young  man  who 
happened  to  be  near  Mr.  Taylor  could  not  suppress  his  indignation.  Dis- 
cerning that  our  traveler  was  a  foreigner,  he  spoke  in  a  low  tone,  bitterly  of 
the  Austrian  government.  "You  are  not  then  an  Austrian?"  asked  the 
latter.  "No  thank  God!"  he  replied,  "  but  I  have  seen  enough  of  Austrian 
tyranny — I  am  a  Pole." 

In  this  Armory,  among  a  host  of  similar  curiosities,  are  "  banners  used  in  the 
French  revolution  ;  the  armor  of  ancient  monarchs  and  generals  ;  old  Austrian 
banners,  and  horsetails  and  flags  captured  from  the  Turks;  the  sword  of 
Marlborough;  the  coat  which  Gustavus  Adolphus  wore  on  the  deadly  field  of 
Lutzen,  pierced  in  the  back  and  breast  with  the  fatal  bullet ;  the  helm  and 
breastplate  of  Attila,  king  of  the  Huns,  which  once  glanced  at  the  head  of 
his  myriads  of  wild  hordes,  before  the  walls  of  Rome  ;  the  cannon  of  Count 
Stahremberg,  who  commanded  Vienna  during  the  Turkish  siege  in  1529, 
and  the  holy  banner  of  Mahomet,  taken  at  that  time  from  the  Grand  Vizier, 
together  with  the  steel  harness  of  John  Sobieski  of  Poland,  who  rescued 
Vienna  from  the  Turks ;  the  hat,  sword,  and  breastplate  of  Godfrey  of  Bou- 


432  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

illon,  the  Crusader  king  of  Jerusalem,  with  the  banners  of  the  Cross,  the 
Crusaders  had  borne  to  Palestine,  and  the  standard  they  captured  from  tie 
Turks,  on  the  walls  of  the  Holy  City,  etc. 

One  fine  afternoon  the  young  men  visited  the  grave  of  Beethoven  in  a  little 
cemetery  beyond  the  suburbs.  Over  it  is  a  stone  of  gray  marble  with  the 
sino-le  word  "Beethoven"  in  letters  of  gold.  On  the  pedestal  is  a  simple 
gilded  lyre,  with  a  serpent  coiled  around  a  butterfly — the  emblem  of  resur- 
rection to  life  eternal.  Near  by  is  the  grave  of  Schubart,  whose  beautiful 
songs  are  heard  all  over  Germany. 

Having  seen  the  curiosities  of  the  Austrian  capital,  the  young  men  called 
at  the  Police-office,  to  get  their  passports  vised*  for  Munich.  Soon  after  en- 
tering the  inspector's  room,  they  were  rudely  accosted  by  one  of  the  clerks, 
who,  with  a  scowling  brow,  and  in  an  overbearing  tone,  asked  "  What  do  you 
want  here  ?  "  Upon  this,  they  handed  him  their  tickets  of  sojourn,  which 
every  traveler  who  spends  a  day  in  Germany  must  obtain,  and  requested  their 
passports.  Having  ascertained  from  their  ticket  who  they  were,  his  manner 
instantly  changed,  and  he  invited  them  to  enter  within  the  railing,  were  they 
were  introduced  to  the  chief  inspector.  "Desire  Herr — ,  to  come  here," 
said  this  officer  to  a  servant ;  then  turning  to  them  with  much  affability,  re- 
marked "  I  am  happy  to  see  the  gentlemen  in  Vienna."  An  officer  then  came 
up,  and  in  good  English,  told  them  to  speak  in  their  native  language,  and 
furthermore,  apologized  for  their  neglect,  by  stating  that  they  spoke  German 
so  well,  they  had  supposed  they  were  natives.  Their  passports  then  were 
presented,  with  a  gracious  bow,  and  the  hope  expressed  that  they  would  soon 
again  visit  Vienna.  In  relating  this  event,  Mr.  Taylor  says,  "that  he  would 
have  felt  grateful  for  the  attention  they  received  as  Americans,  had  it  not 
been  for  their  uncourteous  reception  as  suspected  Austrians." 

Vienna  was  the  most  eastern  point  of  their  travels  ;  they  had  reached  it 
by  a  circuitous  route  through  Northern  Germany,  and  now  were  about  re- 
turning to  Frankfort  through  its  southern  portions.  On  examining  the  state 
of  their  funds,  on  the  morning  of  their  departure,  they  discovered  they  had 
but  four  dollars  apiece  left,  with  which  to  bear  their  expenses  to  Frankfort, 
distant  500  miles ;  this,  reckoning  the  time  it  would  take — twenty  days — 
allowed  but  half  a  florin  (twenty  cents)  per  day,  to  travel  on.  Noways  dis- 
heartened at  the  discovery  ;  but  gathering  merriment  from  it,  they  passed  out 
of  Vienna,  in  the  face  of  a  driving  wind  in  high  spirits,  and  were  soon  among 
the  hills  again. 

The  third  day,  they  again  came  to  the  Danube,  at  the  little  city  of  Melk; 
but  soon  leaving  the  majestic  scenery  along  its  valley,  journeyed  througn 

*  It  is  necessary  for  Americans  to  procure  passports  from  the  Secretary  of  State,  which 
are  given  gratuitously,  in  order  to  visit  Europe.  The  applicant  must  send  his  name,  age, 
height,  weight,  complexion,  color  of  eyes  and  hair,  shape  of  features,  and  any  peculiarity 
about  his  person  to  the  Department  at  Washington,  through  his  representative  in  Congress, 
and  a  passport  will  be  forwarded  to  him.  It  will  not  be  called  for  in  England,  but  01. 
the  Continent  it  must  be  ready  on  his  entrance  into  every  new  country,  and  generally  his 
landlord  will  demand  it  every  night.  The  passport  is  vised  or  examined  by  an  officer 
whose  signature  is  affixed,  and  for  which  a  fee  is  sometimes  charged,  but  oftener  not. 


IN  GERMANY.  433 

some  enchanting  inland  vales.  The  weather  was  now  the  brightest  and 
balmiest  of  June ;  the  air  was  filled  with  the  songs  of  birds — the  meadows 
were  carpeted  with  beautiful  flowers  ;  the  fields  waved  with  ripening  giain  ; 
magnificent  forests  covered  the  hills  :  sometimes,  the  snow-crowned  Alps 
were  seen  glistening  from  afar  ;  the  sun,  reflected  from  the  glaciers,  at  a  hun- 
dred miles  distant,  made  them  to  glitter  like  stars ;  at  others,  the  blue  moun- 
tains of  Bohemia  loomed  up  in  the  horizon  ;  sometimes  they  saw  ever-swell- 
ing ranges  of  highlands,  the  valley  of  the  Danube,  threaded  by  its  silver 
current,  and  dotted  with  white  cottages  and  glittering  spires.  Day  after 
day,  they  walked  through  such  scenes,  sometimes  resting  under  the  shade  of 
fruit-trees,  by  the  road-side,  or  on  a  mossy  bank,  on  the  edge  of  some  cool 
forest,  frequently  taking  their  simple  meals  by  a  clear  spring,  by  the  way- 
side, with  keenest  relish.  Blessed  with  vigorous  health,  and  in  the  exuber- 
ance of  youthful  spirits,  they  were  in  raptures  with  the  beauty  of  all  they 
saw,  and  experienced  all  the  day  long,  an  elevation  of  mind,  a  completeness 
of  joyful  emotions,  that  made  everything  seem  a  perfect  paradise. 

The  fourth  night,  they  put  up  at  the  little  city  of  Enns,  on  the  river  Enns, 
the  boundary  between  Upper  and  Lower  Austria.  According  to  the  legend, 
Saint  Florian  was  here  cast  into  the  river,  by  the  Romans,  with  a  millstone 
fastened  to  his  neck ;  but  lo  !  instead  of  sinking,  he  was  miraculously  sus- 
tained, until  he  had  delivered  a  sermon  to  the  by-standers.  On  the  houses,  as 
a  charm  against  fire,  his  image  is  frequently  represented,  pouring  water  on  a 
burning  building,  with  the  inscription,  "  Oh,  Holy  Florian,  pray  for  us  !  " 
On  the  roads  in  Upper  Austria,  where  a  fatal  accident  has  occurred,  shrines 
are  often  erected,  on  which  is  painted  a  picture  and  description  of  the  event, 
and  a  request  to  all  who  see  it,  to  offer  up  prayers  on  behalf  of  the 
unfortunate. 

A  walk  of  but  a  few  hours  from  Enns,  took  them  to  Linz,  and  on  their 
way  they  saw  young  peasant-maidens  weeding  wheat.  They  wore  broad- 
brimmed  straw  hats,  and  appeared  happy  as  young  birds.  A  day  or  two 
after,  they  were  in  the  midst  of  the  Austrian  Alps,  and  with  five  hours  of  in- 
cessant toil  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  Schafberg,  the  Righi  of  the  Aus- 
trian Switzerland.  Exhausted  with  the  effort,  they  laid  down  upon  the 
heather,  and  gazed  with  emotion  upon  the  sublime  scene  which  spread  around, 
of  mountains  piled  upon  mountains,  until  the  never-melting  snow  upon  their 
summits,  seemed  to  mingle  and  blend  with  the  very  clouds.  Immediately 
beneath,  lay  green  lakes,  imbosomed  in  the  mountains :  far  to  the  north,  a 
line  of  mist  marked  the  windings  of  the  Danube,  and  though  120  miles  dis- 
tant, the  spires  of  Munich  could  be  seen  with  a  glass.  Such  a  view  fills  the 
soul,  elevates  and  expands  the  feelings,  until  rising  above  the  ideas  of  every- 
day life,  they  stand  solemnly  aloft,  like  the  very  mountain-tops,  piercing  the 
heavens. 

After  half  an  hour's  fatiguing  descent,  they  entered  the  valley  of  St.  Cil- 
gen,  "  a  little  paradise  between  the  mountains."  Lovely  green  fields  and 
woods  slope  gradually  from  the  mountain  behind,  to  the  still  greener  lake, 
spread  out  before  it,  in  whose  bosom  the  white  Alps  are  mirrored.  Its  pic- 
turesque cottages  cluster  around  the  neat  church  with  its  lofty  spire,  and 
28     " 


434  WANDERINGS  OF  A  YOUNG  AMERICAN 

the  simple  inhabitants,  have  countenances  as  bright  and  cheerful  as  the  blue 
sky  above  them.  We  breathed  [says  Mr.  Taylor]  an  air  of  poetry.  The 
Arcadian  simplicity  of  the  people,  the  pastoral  beauty  of  the  fields  around, 
and  the  grandeur  of  the  mountains,  which  shut  it  out  from  the  world,  real- 
ized my  ideas  of  a  dwelling-place,  where,  with  a  few  kindred  spirits,  the  bliss 
of  Eden  might  be  restored." 

They  remained  here  a  few  hours  for  rest  and  refreshment,  and  Mr.  Taylor 
entered  a  cottage  of  a  shoemaker,  to  get  his  shoes  repaired.  In  the  mean- 
time, he  had  a  pleasant  chat  with  the  family.  He  told  them  how  much  he 
admired  their  village,  and  its  beautiful  scenery.  Gratified  with  his  admira- 
tion, the  man  and  his  wife  related  everything  they  thought  would  interest 
him,  and  that  too,  in  language  evincing  cultivation.  As  he  got  up  to  leave, 
his  head  almost  reached  the  low  ceiling  of  the  cottage,  upon  which  the  man 
exclaimed  "  how  tall  !  "  "  The  people  in  my  country  are  all  tall,"  he  replied. 
"  What  country  is  that  ? "  rejoined  the  shoemaker.  The  moment  the 
word  "America,"  escaped  the  young  traveler's  lips,  the  old  German 
threw  up  both  hands  in  utter  astonishment,  and  at  the  same  time  ejaculated — 
"Ach  Gott !  he  is  an  American  !  "  His  wife  observed,  that  "  it  was  wonder- 
ful how  far  man  was  permitted  to  travel."  As  he  left,  he  received  their  kind 
wishes  "  for  a  prosperous  journey  and  a  safe  return  home." 

That  afternoon,  Mr.  Taylor  entered  a  little  chapel,  in  the  village  grave- 
yard. The  declining  sun  sent  his  slanting  rays  through  a  side  window,  and 
all  was  still  around.  At  the  farther  end  was  a  little  shrine  with  flowers. 
Upon  the  wall  were  two  monumental  tablets.  One  bore  these  touching  and 
eloquent  words:  "Look  not  mournfully  into  the  past — it  comes  not  again; 
wisely  improve  the  present — it  is  thine;  and  go  forward  to  meet  the  shadowy  fu- 
ture, without  fear  and  with  a  manly  heart  !  " 

The  next  day  they  passed  through  Salzburg,  the  birth-place  of  Mozart, 
and  the  burial  place  of  Hayden,  and  one  day  later  still,  passed  the  stream 
which  divides  Austria  from  Bavaria.  On  crossing  the  border,  everything 
wore  a  more  pleasant  aspect, — the  roads  were  neater,  and  they  were  greeted 
in  such  a  friendly  way,  by  the  peasants,  that  they  felt  half  at  home.  The 
next  night  they  passed  in  the  little  village  of  Stein,  near  which,  on  the  heights, 
are  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  the  famous  robber-knight,  Hans  Von  Stein.  The 
dungeons  in  which  he  immured  his  victims  remain  to  this  day. 

From  another  little  village  beyond,  they  followed  a  path  across  the  country, 
to  visit  the  field  of  Hohenlinden,  familiar  to  us  from  childhood,  from  the 
beautiful  poem  of  Campbell,  commencing  with,  "  On  Linden,  when  the  sun 
was  low." 

When  about  two  miles  distant,  they  saw  "a  tall  minaret-like  spire,  rise  from 
a  small  cluster  of  houses,  and  this  was  Hohenlinden  !"  They  were  disap- 
pointed in  their  expectations.  The  "  hills  of  blood-stained  snow"  were  small, 
and  the  "  Iser  rolling  rapidly,"  several  miles  distant.  Not  a  monument,  or 
any  token  of  the  battle  exists.  Having  recited  Campbell's  poem,  and  plucked 
a  few  wild-flowers  as  a  memorial,  they  continued  on,  and  soon  after  sunset, 
crossed  the  bridge  over  the  rapid  Iser,  and  found  comfortable  quarters  in 
Munich. 


IN  GERMANY.  435 

Munich,  the  capital  of  Bavaria,  is  situated  upon  an  elevated,  cold,  sterile 
plain.  Within  the  present  century,  it  has  grown  from  a  third-rate  city  of  not 
any  note,  to  one  of  about  100,000  inhabitants,  and  in  the  magnificence  of  its 
buildings,  to  one  of  the  first  capitals  in  Europe.  Mr.  Taylor  thought  he  had 
seen  everything  in  Vienna  to  excite  admiration,  or  please  the  taste,  but  here, 
he  says,  all  he  had  conceived  of  oriental  magnificence,  of  kingly  halls,  and 
splendid  palaces,  was  immeasurably  below  the  reality.  Some  of  the  public 
fc  uildings  are  so  novel  in  their  arrangement,  and  so  gorgeous  in  their  orna- 
ments, that  he  thought  the  artists  must  have  derived  their  ideas  from  the 
Arabian  Nights. 

Our  traveler's  tour  through  Germany  was  now  drawing  near  to  a  close. 
From  Munich  they  proceeded  through  Witemburg  to  Heidelberg  and  soon 
were  again  among  their  friends  in  Frankfort.  After  a  month's  sojourn  in  that 
city,  Mr.  Taylor  left  Frankfort  and  continued  his  travels  through  Switzerland. 
Italy,  and  France,  meeting  much  of  interesting  adventure  all  of  which  is  de- 
scribed in  his  peculiarly  attractive  manner.  For  these  details  and  those  of 
his  tour  in  Great  Britain,  as  well  as  much  relating  to  Germany,  which  our 
rapid  sketch  has  not  drawn  upon  we  refer  the  reader  to  the  volume  itself. 
With  a  few  words  describing  the  return  of  himself  and  companions  to  New 
York,  and  his  journey  home  to  his  native  state,  Pennsylvania,  we  close  this 
article. 

After  an  absence  of  two  years,  one  beautiful  afternoon  in  early  June,  the 
young  wanderers  sailed  up  the  bay  of  New  York,  and  were  again  upon  the 
soil  of  their  native  land.  They  were  at  once  struck  with  the  energy  and 
activity  of  the  people,  the  keenness  of  expression  on  every  countenance,  the 
glorious  independence  of  manners — even  in  the  children,  all  of  which  was 
most  refreshing  after  having  been  so  long  accustomed  to  the  servile  air  of  the 
common  people  of  Europe. 

A  run  across  New  Jersey,  a  night  in  neat  Philadelphia,  and  a  sail  down  the 
Delaware  brought  them  to  Wilmington,  within  twelve  miles  of  home.  Now 
came  the  realizing  of  a  plan  that  had  a  hundred  times  whiled  away  many  a 
dreary  mile  of  European  travel.  Their  knapsacks,  slouched  German  hats,  belts, 
blouses,  and  pilgrim  staves,  untouched  since  leaving  Paris,  were  resumed,  and 
they  started  on  that  short  walk  of  three  or  four  hours,  but  which  from  the 
crowd  of  emotions  that  pressed  upon  them,  seemed  three  times  as  long.  As 
the  broad  bright  sun  went  down,  their  homes  were  not  far  off.  "  When  the 
twilight  grew  deeper,"  says  Taylor,  "  we  parted  and  each  thought  what  an 
experience  lay  between  that  moment  and  the  next  morning.  I  took  to  the 
fields,  plunged  into  a  sea  of  dewy  clover  and  made  for  a  light  which  began 
to  glimmer  as  it  grew  darker.  When  I  reached  it  and  looked  with  most  pain- 
ful excitement  through  the  window  on  the  unsuspecting  group  within,  not  one 
face  was  missing !" 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION 


JAPAN 


JAPANESE    TEMPLE    AND    PRAYING    MACHINE. 


Description  of  Japan — Intercourse  with  Foreign  Nations — Russians  put  in  cages  by  the 
Japanese — The  Jesuits  in  Japan — Persecution  and  Expulsion  of  Christians — Perry's 
Expedition  arrives  on  the  Japan  coast — Negotiations — The  Express  to  Yedo — 
Scenery  of  the  Bay — The  Surveying  Parties — Landing  of  Commodore  Perry — Recep- 
tion of  the  President's  Letter  by  the  Prince  of  Idzu — Exploration  of  the  Upper  Bay 
of  Yedo — Departure  of  the  Expedition — Second  Expedition — Interesting  Incidents — 
Successful  result — Treaty  with  Japan. 

Japan  has  ever  been  a  country  of  mystery,  and  even  now  but  little  is 
known  of  its  interior.  The  empire  consists  of  a  long  chain  of  islands, 
stretching  along  the  eastern  coast  of  Asia,  for  many  degrees  of  latitude, 
which  gives  a  corresponding  range  of  climate.  Their  number,  small  and 
large,  is  variously  estimated  at  from  one  thousand  to  three  thousand  eight 
hundred,  and  the  aggregate  area  is,  perhaps,  equal  to  New  York,  Pennsyl- 
vania, New  Jersey,  and  New  England.  Nipon,  the  largest  island,  is  nine 
hundred  miles  long  by  about  one  hundred  miles  broad,  with  an  area  equal  to 

437 


438  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN. 

all  the  others  combined — viz  :  95,000  square  miles.  Yesso  has  about  thirty 
thousand ;  Kinsu,  sixteen  thousand ;  and  Sikok,  ten  thousand.  The  popu- 
lation is  not  known,  but  guessed  at  over  thirty  millions. 

Japan  is  rich  with  the  gifts  of  nature  and  generally  fertile.  In  parts  it  is 
cultivated  like  a  garden,  the  towns  of  a  large  size  and  the  roads  and  high- 
ways thronged  with  people,  while  in  some  other  parts  there  is  reason  for 
believing  the  population  small ;  for  it  is  known  that  Yesso,  the  second 
island  in  size,  though  more  fertile  than  New  England,  has  no  population 
beyond  fishing-villages  on  the  coast  and  a  few  scattered  aborigines  in  the 
interior. 

The  Japanese,  not  being  a  meat-eating  people,  are  enabled  to  cultivate 
land  that  otherwise  would  be  in  pasture ;  and  no  people  in  the  world  so 
largely  partake  of  sea-food.  But  the  mountainous  character  of  the  islands, 
the  large  areas  devoted  by  law  to  forests,  and  the  licensed  prostitution  of 
women  without  medical  control,  which,  by  producing  barrenness  and  spread- 
ing disease,  must  tend  to  check  population,  probably  more  than  overbalance 
the  advantages  mentioned,  so  that  it  is  doubted,  by  recent  travelers,  if  Japan 
has  in  reality  over  twenty  millions  of  people. 

Japan  is  inhabited  by  two  distinct  races,  the  Japanese  and  the  Aino.  The 
latter  are  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  were  conquered  by  the  Japanese,  are  now 
few  in  number,  and  exclusively  hunters  and  fishermen.  The  Japanese  are 
supposed  to  be  a  cross  of  the  Malay  and  Mongol  races.  The  authentic  his- 
tory of  Japan  dates  about  seven  hundred  years  before  Christ,  nearly  back  to 
the  time  of  Moses. 

"  The  first  allusion  in  European  writings  to  Japan,  is  in  Marco  Polo's  ac- 
count of  his  travels  in  Cathay,  who  was  at  the  court  of  Ghengis  Zhan  of 
Tartary  from  A.  D.  1260  to  1294.  That  great  Tartar  chieftain  fitted  out  a 
grand  expedition  for  the  conquest  of  this  empire  of  Zipangu — the  Japanese 
pronunciation  of  the  word  Japan. 

The  country  was  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  in  1542,  in  that  age  which, 
above  all  others,  was  marked  by  zeal  for  the  propagation  of  religion.  It  was 
in  1540  that  seven  young  men  met  in  a  little  underground  chapel  in  Paris,  and 
organized  themselves  into  a  society,  taking  solemn  vows  never  to  marry,  to 
remain  always  in  poverty,  to  render  absolute  obedience  to  their  chief ;  to  go 
at  any  instant,  by  day  or  night,  into  unknown  danger  —  to  the  burning  sands 
of  Africa,  to  the  jungles  of  Asia;  to  employ  any  means — truth  when  it 
would  serve,  falsehood  and  duplicity,  when  nothing  else  would  do  —  to 
propagate  the  gospel.  Their  election  of  a  chief  fell  upon  Ignatius  Loyola, 
whose  ablest  follower  was  Francis  Xavier. 

India  was  then  conspicuously  before  the  western  nations.  All  governments 
were  reaching  out  their  hands  to  grasp  the  wealth  of  that  land  which 
exported  gold,  ivory,  and  peacock's  feathers,  whose  rivers  sparkled  with  dia- 
monds, whose  temple-roofs  were  overlaid  with  pure  gold,  and  whose  barbaric 
kings  displayed  greater  wealth  than  that  of  all  Christendom.     It  was  an  age 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  439 

of  greed  as  well  as  of  zeal.  The  chief  officer  of  the  society  of  Jesus  and  his 
most  devoted  followers  were  in  Spain  in  1542.  At  that  time  a  vessel  was 
fitting  out  in  one  of  the  ports  for  Goa,  the  Portuguese  colony  of  India. 

At  a  day's  notice  from  Loyola,  Xavier  was  ready  for  the  journey  to  his 
future  field  of  labor.  He  stopped  not  to  bid  farewell  to  friends,  made  no 
provision  for  the  voyage,  packed  no  ponderous  trunks ;  but  with  his  old  tat- 
tered cloak,  a  bag  over  his  shoulder,  started  upon  his  far-distant  mission, 
reached  Goa  before  the  end  of  the  year,  went  to  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  vis- 
ited the  neighboring  islands,  where  he  fell  in  with  a  Japanese  named  Angrio, 
who  had  been  brought  to  Malacca  by  the  Portuguese,  and  who  accepted  the 
new  religion.  •  Xavier  pushed  on  to  Japan,  arrived  here  at  Nagasaki  in  1549, 
made  a  few  converts,  obtained  information,  laid  plans  for  the  future,  sailed 
for  China,  and  died  on  the  passage. 

But  his  plans  were  taken  up  by  his  followers.  Priests  came,  and  Chris- 
tianity obtained  a  foothold  at  this  port.  The  Portuguese  began  to  trade 
here  at  Nagasaki  in  1558.  A  church  was  established,  and  several  of  the 
Japanese  damios,  or  princes,  embraced  the  Christian  religion.  The  emperor 
was  well  disposed  toward  the  missionaries.  Two  of  the  damios  were  sent 
to  Europe  as  ambassadors  to  the  Pope  in  1582,  at  which  time  Christianity 
had  made  great  progress  in  the  empire.  They  were  received  at  Rome  with 
grand  ceremonies ;  there  was  great  rejoicing  throughout  Christendom  over 
the  thought  that  the  far  East  was  welcoming  the  gospel ;  that  the  islands  of 
the  sea  had  stretched  out  their  hands  to  God,  and  that  prophesy  was  being 
fulfilled.  It  is  stated  that  it  was  the  custom  of  the  priests  to  go  through 
the  streets,  bearing  a  cross,  ringing  a  bell,  and  sprinkling  holy  water  upon 
the  crowd.  Upon  whomsoever  a  drop  fell  he  was  counted  as  a  Christian, 
and  was  made  to  believe  that  he  had  received  the  new  religion,  and  was 
numbered  among  the  converts. 

A  new  tycoon  came  into  power  in  1587.  He  was  a  conservative,  who 
held  that  Japanese  should  rule  Japan,  and  that  foreigners  were  of  a  inferior 
race.  He  ordered  them  to  quit  the  country.  The  people  began  to  throw 
stones  at  them  in  the  streets,  to  jostle  them  off  the  sidewalks,  and  occasion- 
ally a  Japanese  gentleman  of  the  conservative  party  manifested  his  superior- 
ity by  ripping  up  or  cutting  down  a  priest.  The  government  began  to  hang 
native  Christians  on  trees,  impaled  them  on  stakes,  or  pitched  them  down 
precipices.  The  first  martyr  was  executed  in  1598,  but  the  Jesuits  were  not 
wholly  driven  from  the  country  till  twenty-two  years  later.  In  1620, 
when  the  Mayflower  was  making  her  lonely  voyage  across  the  Atlantic,  the 
tycoon  drove  the  last  Jesuit  priest  from  the  empire,  and  a  few  years  later  the 
Dutch  traders,  who  had  made  no  efforts  to  introduce  a  new  religion,  were 
confined  to  the  small  island  in  front  of  the  town  of  Nagasaki,  called  the 
Desima.  Through  them  the  Japanese  informed  themselves  of  what  was 
going  on  in  the  world,  at  the  same  time  keeping  themselves  wholly  se- 
cluded. " 


440  PERRY'S   EXPEDITION   TO  JAPAN. 

Repeated  efforts  made,  by  England  and  Russia,  with  a  view  to  establish  a 
friendly  intercourse,  failed.  In  1803,  Resanoff,  a  Russian  embassador,  was 
seized  and  imprisoned  in  a  bamboo  cage,  on  the  beach  of  Nagasaki,  and 
coolly  informed  that  Russian  ships  were  not  needed  in  Japan.  In  1811, 
Captain  Golownin  and  a  party  of  six  or  eight  were  also  seized,  and,  accord- 
ing to  the  custom  of  the  country,  imprisoned  in  cages,  and  remained  captives 
nearly  two  years,  although  otherwise  well  treated. 

To  our  own  country  belongs  the  honor  of  first  opening  Japan  to  the  com- 
merce of  the  civilized  world,  a  more  just  cause  of  congratulation  than  a 
thousand. victorious  battle  fields. 

In  1846,  in  consequence  of  the  rapid  increase  in  American  commerce,  our 
government  was  compelled  to  attempt  to  open  intercourse  with  Japan.  The 
war-ship  Columbus  and  the  frigate  Yincennes,  under  Commodore  Biddle, 
arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  of  Yedo,  with  a  letter  from  president 
Polk  to  the  emperor.  The  answer  was  short  and  decisive,  "  No  trade  can  be 
allowed  with  any  foreign  nation  but  Holland." 

The  expedition  under  Commodore  Perry,  in  1853-4,  was  successful  in 
breaking  down  the  barriers  which  Japan  had  erected  against  the  outer  world. 
The  visit  of  Perry  is  here  given  in  the  language  of  the  well-known  traveler, 
Bayard  Taylor,  who  was  a  member  of  the  expedition  : 

"  The  squadron,  consisting  of  the  Susquehanna,  (flag-ship),  Mississippi, 
Plymouth,  and  Saratoga — the  two  sloops-of-war  being  taken  in  tow  by  the  two 
steamers — sailed  from  the  harbor  of  Napa-Kiang,  Loo  Choo,  on  the  2d  of 
July.  At  daybreak,  July  the  8th,  we  first  made  land,  which  proved  to  be 
Cape  Idzu,  a  lofty  head-land  on  the  coast  of  Niphon,  not  far  south  of  the 
entrance  of  the  great  Bay  of  Yedo. 

Leaving;  the  mountains  of  Idzu  behind  us,  we  stood  across  the  mouth  of 
the  Bay  of  Kowadzu,  (as  the  southern  half  of  the  bifurcate  Bay  of  Yedo  is 
called,)  toward  Cape  Sagami,  at  the  extremity  of  the  promontory  which 
divides  the  two.  The  noon  observation  gave  lat.  34°  57'  N.,  and  soon  after- 
ward Cape  Sagami  came  in  sight. 

The  shores  of  Sagami  are  exceedingly  picturesque  and  beautiful.  They 
rise  in  abrupt  bluffs,  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  gashed  with  narrow  dells  of 
the  brightest  verdure,  which  slope  steeply  down  to  the  water,  while  the 
country  behind  rises  in  undulating  hills,  displaying  a  charming  alternation  of 
groves  and  cultivated  fields.  In  the  distance  rose  mountain  ranges,  receding 
behind  each  other  until  the  vapor  hid  their  farthest  summits.  The  eastern 
coast,  belonging  to  the  province  of  Awa,  now  came  in  sight  ahead  of  us,  for 
we  were  entering  the  narrowest  part  of  the  bay,  leading  to  the  upper  Bay  of 
Yedo.  The  distance  from  shore  to  shore  here  varies  from  five  to  eight  miles, 
but  afterward,  expands  to  twelve  or  fifteen. 

We  kept  directly  up  the  bay,  and  in  half  an  hour  after  doubling  Cape 
Sagami  saw  before  us  a  bold  promontory  making  out  from  the  western  coast, 
37 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  441 

at  the  entrance  of  the  Upper  Bay.  Within  it  was  the  Bight  of  Uraga,  and 
we  could  plainly  see  the  town  of  the  same  name  at  the  head  of  it.  The 
Plymouth  and  Saratoga  were  cast  off,  and  we  advanced  slowly,  sounding  as 
we  went,  until  we  had  advanced  more  than  a  mile  beyond  the  point  reached 
by  the  Columbus  and  the  Morrison.  We  were  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  promontory,  when  two  discharges  of  cannon  were  heard  from  a  battery 
at  its  extremity,  and,  immediately  afterward,  a  light  ball  of  smoke  in  the  air 
showed  that  a  shell  had  been  thrown  up.  An  order  was  immediately  given 
to  let  go  the  anchor,  but,  as  the  lead  still  showed  twenty-five  fathoms,  the 
steamer's  head  was  put  in  toward  the  shore,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  anchor 
was  dropped. 

Another  shell  was  fired,  after  we  came  to  anchor,  and  four  or  five  boats, 
filled  with  Japanese,  approached  us.  The  rowers,  who  were  all  tall,  athletic 
men,  naked,  sav#  a  cloth  around  the  loins,  shouted  lustily  as  they  sculled  with 
all  their  strength  toward  us.  The  boats  were  of  unpainted  wood,  very  sharp 
in  the  bows,  carrying  their  greatest  breadth  of  beam  well  aft,  and  were  pro- 
pelled with  great  rapidity.  The  resemblance  of  their  model  to  that  of  the 
yacht  America,  struck  everybody  on  board.  In  the  stern  of  each  was  a  small 
flag,  with  three  horizontal  stripes,  the  central  one  black,  and  the  others  white. 
In  each  were  several  persons,  who,  by  their  dress,  and  the  two  swords  stuck 
m  their  belts,  appeared  to  be  men  of  authority. 

The  first  boat  came  alongside,  and  one  of  the  two-sworded  individuals 
made  signs  for  the  gangway  to  be  let  down.  This  was  refused,  but  Mr.  Wells 
Williams,  the  interpreter,  and  Mr.  Portman,  the  Commodore's  clerk,  (who  is 
a  native  of  Holland,)  went  to  the  ship's  side  to  state  that  nobody  would  be 
received  on  board,  except  the  first  in  rank  at  Uraga.  The  conversation  was 
carried  on  principally  in  Dutch,  which  the  interpreter  spoke  very  well.  He 
asked  at  once  if  we  were  not  Americans,  and  by  his  manner  of  asking  showed 
that  our  coming  had  been  anticipated.  He  was  told  that  the  commander  of 
the  squadron  was  an  officer  of  very  high  rank  in  the  United  States,  and  could 
only  communicate  with  the  first  in  rank  on  shore.  After  a  long  parley,  the 
Vice-Governor  of  Uraga,  who  was  in  the  boat,  was  allowed  to  come  on  board 
with  the  interpreter,  and  confer  with  Lieutenant  Con  tee,  the  flag-lieutenant.  The 
Japanese  official,  a  fiery  little  fellow,  was  much  exasperated  at  being  kept  in 
waiting,  but  soon  moderated  his  tone.  He  was  told  that  we  came  as  friends, 
upon  a  peaceable  mission ;  that  we  should  not  go  to  Nangasaki,  as  he  pro- 
posed,  and  that  it  was  insulting  to  our  President  and  his  special  minister,  to 
propose  it.  He  was  told,  moreover,  that  the  Japanese  must  not  communicate 
with  any  other  vessel  than  the  flag-ship,  and  that  no  boats  must  approach  us 
during  the  night.  An  attempt  to  surround  us  with  a  cordon  of  boats,  as  in 
the  case  of  the  Columbus  and  Vincennes,  would  lead  to  very  serious  conse- 
quences. They  had  with  them  an  official  notice,  written  in  French,  Dutch 
and  English,  and  intended  as  a  general  warning  to  all  foreign  vessels,  direct- 
ing them  to  go  no  further,  to  remain  out  at  sea,  and  send  word  ashore,  why 
they  came,  and  what  they  wanted.  This,  Lieutenant  Contee,  declined  to  see  or 
acknowledge  in  any  way.  The  same  notice  was  taken  to  the  Plymouth  by 
a  until  er  boat,  but  it  was  at  once  orderad  o^ 


442  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN. 

Commodore  Perry  had  evidently  made  up  his  mind  from  the  first  not  to 
submit  to  the  surveillance  of  boats.  The  dignified  and  decided  stand  he  took, 
produced  an  immediate  impression  upon  the  Japanese.  They  were  convinced 
that  he  was  in  earnest,  and  that  all  the  tricks  and  delays,  with  which  they  are 
in  the  habit  of  wheedling  foreign  visitors,  would  be  used  in  vain.  Several 
boats  having  followed  the  first  one,  and  begun  to  collect  around  us,  the  Vice 
Governor  was  told  that  if  they  did  not  return  at  once,  they  would  be  fired 
into.  One  of  them  went  to  the  Mississippi,  and  after  being  repulsed  from 
the  gangway,  pulled  forward  to  where  some  of  the  crew  tried  to  climb  on 
board.  A  company  of  boarders  was  immediately  called  away,  and  the 
bristling  array  of  pikes  and  cutlasses  over  the  vessel's  side  caused  the  Japan- 
ese to  retreat  in  great  haste.  Thenceforth,  all  the  Japanese  boats  gave  us  a 
wide  berth,  and  during  the  whole  of  our  stay,  none  approached  us  except 
those  containing  the  officials  who  were  concerned  in  the  negotiations.  I  may 
here  remark,  that  our  presence  did  not  seem  to  disturb,  in  the  least,  the  coasting 
trade  which  finds  its  focus  in  Yedo.  Without  counting  the  hundreds  of  small 
boats  and  fishing-smacks,  between  sixty  and  seventy  large  junks  daily  passed 
up  and  down  the  bay,  on  their  way  to  and  from  Yedo. 

The  Japanese  boatmen  were  tall,  handsomely  formed  men,  with  vigorous 
and  symmetrical  bodies,  and  a  hardy,  manly  expression  of  countenance.  As 
the  air  grew  fresher,  toward  evening,  they  put  on  a  sort  of  loose  gown  with 
wide,  hanging  sleeves.  As  the  crew  of  each  boat  were  all  attired  alike,  the 
dress  appeared  to  be  a  uniform,  denoting  that  they  were  in  government 
service.  The  most  of  them  had  blue  gowns,  with  white  stripes  on  the  sleeves, 
meeting  on  the  shoulder,  so  as  to  form  a  triangular  junction,  and  a  crest,  or 
-  coat-of-arms,  upon  the  back.  Others  had  gowns  of  red  and  white  stripes, 
with  a  black  lozenge  upon  the  back.  Some  wore  upon  their  heads  a  cap, 
made  of  bamboo  splints,  resembling  a  broad,  shallow  basin,  inverted,  but  the 
greater  part  had  their  heads  bare,  the  top  and  crown  shaved,  and  the  hair 
from  the  back  and  sides  brought  up  and  fastened  in  a  small  knot,  through 
which  a  short  metal  pin  was  thrust.  The  officers  wore  light  and  beautifully 
lacquered  hats,  to  protect  them  from  the  sun,  with  a  gilded  coat-of-arms  upon 
the  front  part.  In  most  of  the  boats,  I  noticed  a  tall  spear,  with  a  lacquered 
sheath  for  the  head,  resembling  a  number,  or  character,  referring  to  the  rank 
of  the  officer  on  board. 

After  dark,  watch-fires  began  to  blaze  along  the  shore,  both  from  the  beach 
and  from  the  summits  of  the  hills,  chiefly  on  the  western  side  of  the  bay. 
At  the  same  time  we  heard,  at  regular  intervals,  the  sound  of  a  deep-toned 
bell.  It  had  a  very  sweet,  rich  tone,  and  from  the  distinctness  with  which 
its  long  reverberations  reached  us,  must  have  been  of  large  size.  A  double 
night-watch  was  established  during  our  stay,  and  no  officers  except  the  Pur- 
ser and  Sugeons  were  exempt  from  serving.  But  the  nights  were  quiet  and 
peaceful,  and  it  never  fell  to  my  lot  to  report  a  suspicious  appearance  of  any 
kind. 

The  next  morning,  Yezaimon,  the  Governor  of  Uraga,  and  the  highest 
authority  on  shore,  came  off,  attended  by  two  interpreters,  who  gave  their 
names   as  Tatsonoske  and  Tokoshiuro.     He  was  received  by  commander* 


PERRf'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  443 

Buchanan  and  Adams,  and  Lieutenant  Contee.  He  was  a  noble  of  the  second 
rank ;  his  robe  was  of  the  richest  silken  tissue,  embroidered  with  gold  and 
silver  in  a  pattern  resembling  peacock  feathers.  The  object  of  his  coming,  I 
believe,  was  to  declare  his  inability  to  act,  not  having  the  requisite  authority 
without  instructions  from  Yedo.  At  any  rate,  it  was  understood  that  an 
express  would  be  sent  to  the  capital  immediately,  and  the  Commodore  gave 
him  until  Tuesday  noon  to  have  the  answer  ready.  Sunday  passed  over 
without  any  visit,  but  on  Monday  there  was  an  informal  one. 

From  Tuesday  until  Wednesday  noon,  Yezaimon  came  off  three  times, 
remaining  from  two  to  three  hours  each  time.  The  result  of  all  these  con- 
ferences  was,  that  the  Emperor  had  specially  appointed  one  of  the  chief  coun- 
selors of  the  Empire  to  proceed  to  Uraga,  and  receive  from  Commodore 
Perry  the  letter  of  the  President  of  the  United  States,  which  the  Commodore 
was  allowed  to  land  and  deliver  on  shore.  This  prompt  and  unlooked-for 
concession  astonished  us  all,  and  I  am  convinced  it  was  owing  entirely  to  the 
decided  stand  the  Commodore  took,  during  the  early  negotiations.  We  had 
obtained  in  four  days,  without  subjecting  ourselves  to  a  single  observance  of 
Japanese  law,  what  the  Russian  embassy,  under  Resanoff,  failed  to  accomplish 
in  six  months,  after  a  degrading  subservience  to  ridiculous  demands.  From 
what  I  know  of  the  negotiations,  I  must  say  that  they  were  admirably  con- 
ducted. The  Japanese  officials  were  treated  in  such  a  polite  and  friendly 
manner  as  to  win  their  good  will,  while  not  a  single  point  to  which  we  attached 
any  importance,  was  yielded.  There  was  a  mixture  of  firmness,  dignity  and 
fearlessness  on  our  side,  against  which  their  artful  and  dissimulating  policy 
was  powerless.  To  this,  and  to  our  material  strength,  I  attribute  the  fact  of 
our  reception  having  been  so  different  from  that  of  other  embassies,  as  almost 
to  make  us  doubt  the  truth  of  the  accounts  we  had  read. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  the  Japanese  put  up  a  false  battery  of 
black  canvas,  about  a  hundred  yards  in  length,  on  the  shore  south  of  Uraga. 
There  was  no  appearance  of  guns,  but  with  a  glass  I  saw  two  or  three  com- 
panies of  soldiers,  in  scarlet  uniform,  riding  through  the  groves  in  the  rear. 

On  Saturday  morning  a  surveying  expedition,  consisting  of  one  boat  from 
each  ship,  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Bent,  of  the  Mississippi,  was  sent 
for  the  purpose  of  sounding  up  the  bay.  The  other  officers  were  Lieutenant 
Guest,  of  the  Susquehanna,  Lieutenant  Belch,  of  the  Plymouth,  and  Mr. 
Madigan,  master  of  the  Saratoga.  The  boats  carried,  in  addition  to  the  usual 
ensign,  a  white  flag  at  the  bow,  and  were  fully  manned  with  armed  seamen. 
They  ran  up  the  bay  to  a  distance  of  about  four  miles,  and  found  everywhere 
from  thirty  to  forty-three  fathoms  of  water.  On  approaching  the  forts,  the 
soldiers  at  first  came  out,  armed  with  matchlocks,  but,  as  the  boats  advanced 
nearer,  they  retired  within  the  walls.  The  forts  were  all  of  very  rude  and 
imperfect  construction,  and  all  together  only  mounted  fourteen  guns,  none  of 
which  were  larger  than  nine -pounders. 

On  Monday  morning  the  same  surveying  party  was  again  dispatched  up 
the  bay,  followed  by  the  Mississippi,  which  was  designed  to  protect  them  and 
tow  them  back  in  the  evening.  Lieutenant  Bent's  boat  was  in  advance,  and 
as  he  passed  the  promontory  of  Uraga,  three  Japanese  boats  put  out  to  meet 


444  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN. 

him.  The  officers  in  them  made  signs  to  return,  but  he  kept  steadily  on  his 
way.  We  watched  the  progress  of  our  boats  with  glasses,  but  at  the  distance 
of  four  miles,  they,  with  the  Mississippi,  passed  out  of  sight  behind  the 
point. 

It  had  been  arranged  with  the  Japanese  officials  that  the  President's  letter 
would  be  delivered  on  Thursday  morning,  July  14,  at  the  town  of  Gori-hama, 
two  miles  south  of  Uraga. 

The  morning  was  heavy  and  dark,  before  sunrise,  but  soon  afterward 
cleared  off  brilliantly.  As  soon  as  the  shore  could  be  distinguished,  it  was 
seen  that  the  principal  battery,  on  the  promontory  of  Uraga,  had  been  greatly 
amplified,  and  adorned  by  screens  of  cotton  canvas,  in  honor  of  the  occasion. 
On  the  hill  above,  among  the  trees,  there  were  two  small  forts  or  rather 
pavilions,  of  the  same  material.  The  canvas  was  stretched  along  a  row  o.' 
stakes  so  as  to  form  a  species  of  paneling,  on  which  the  imperial  coat-of-arms 
was  painted,  alternating  with  other  devices.  Behind  the  canvas  we  could  see 
that  numerous  companies  of  soldiers  were  drawn  up,  in  different  costume  from 
that  which  they  usually  wore.  Their  arms  were  bare,  and  the  body  covered 
with  a  short  tunic  of  a  dark-brown,  blue,  or  purple  color,  bound  with  a  girdle 
at  the  waist. 

About  eight  o'clock  the  anchors  were  lifted,  and  the  Susquehanna  and 
Mississippi  moved  slowly  down  the  bay,  leaving  the  Plymouth  and  Saratoga. 
We  soon  saw  two  boats,  bearing  the  government  flag,  pulling  abreast  of  us, 
but  further  in  shore,  and  accompanied  by  four  other  boats  with  red  banners, 
probably  containing  a  military  escort.  As  the  bight  opened  behind  the  pro- 
montory, we  saw  a  long  line  of  canvas  walls,  covered  with  the  Imperial  crest, 
stretching  quite  around  the  head  of  the  bight.  In  front  were  files  of  soldiers, 
standing  motionless  on  the  sandy  beach.  A  multitude  of  banners  of  various 
brilliant  colors  gleamed  in  the  sun.  Near  the  center  of  the  crescent  formed 
by  the  troops,  were  planted  nine  tall  standards — four  on  one  side,  and  five  on 
the  other — from  which  broad  scarlet  pennons  hung  to  the  ground.  In  the 
rear  of  these,  three  new  pyramidal  roofs  showed  that  a  house  had  been  pre- 
pared expressly  for  the  Commodore's  reception.  On  the  right,  upward  of 
fifty  or  sixty  boats  were  drawn  up  in  a  line  parallel  to  the  beach,  each  having 
a  red  flag  at  its  stern.  From  the  head  of  the  bight  a  narrow  valley  extended 
inland  between  luxuriantly  wooded  hills.  On  the  left  side  was  a  picturesque 
little  town,  the  name  of  which,  the  Japanese  informed  us,  was  Gori-hama. 
The  place  was  undoubtedly  chosen,  both  on  account  of  its  remoteness  from 
Uraga,  which  is  a  port  of  customs,  and  the  facility  which  it  afforded  to  the 
Japanese  for  the  exhibition  of  a  large  military  force — a  measure  dictated  alike 
by  their  native  caution,  and  the  love  of  display  for  which  they  are  noted. 

The  anchor  was  no  sooner  down,  than  the  two  government  boats  sculled 
alongside,  and  Yezaimon,  with  the  interpreters,  Tatsonoske  and  Tokoshiuro, 
came  on  board.  The  second  boat  contained  the  Deputy- Governor,  Saboroske, 
and  an  attendant  officer.  They  were  accommodated  with  seats  on  the  quar- 
ter-deck, until  all  our  preparations  for  landing  were  completed.  They  were 
dressed,  as  they  had  hinted  the  day  previous,  in  official  garments  of  rich  silk 
brocade,  bordered  with  velvet.     The  gowns  differed  little  in  form  from  thos* 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  445 

they  ordinarily  wore,  but  were  elaborately  embroidered,  and  displayed  a 
greater  variety  of  gay  colors,  than  taste  in  their  disposal.  Saboroske  had  a 
pair  of  short  and  very  wide  pantaloons,  resembling  a  petticoat  with  a  seam 
up  the  middle,  below  which  appeared  his  bare  legs  and  black  wollen  socks, 
with  an  effect  rather  comical  than  otherwise.  His  shoulders  contained  lines 
of  ornament  in  gold  thread.  All  the  officers  wore  their  crest,  or  coat-of-arms, 
embroidered  upon  the  back,  sleeves,  and  breasts,  of  their  garments. 

The  boats  of  the  Mississippi,  Plymouth,  and  Saratoga,  were  alongside  in  less 
than  half  an  hour  after  our  anchor  dropped,  and  preparations  were  made  for 
leaving  at  once.  Both  steamers  lay  with  their  broadsides  to  the  shore,  and 
the  decks  were  cleared,  the  guns  primed  and  pointed,  ready  for  action  in  case 
of  treachery.  Commanders  Kelly  and  Lee  remained  on  board  their  respect- 
ive ships,  in  order  to  act  in  case  of  necessity.  The  morning  was  very  bright 
and  clear,  and  the  fifteen  launches  and  cutters,  containing  the  officers,  sea- 
men, marines  and  bandsmen,  presented  a  brilliant  appearance,  as  they  clus- 
tered around  our  starboard  gangway.  Commander  Buchanan  took  the  lead, 
in  his  barge,  with  one  of  the  Japanese  government  boats  on  each  side. 
Merrily  as  the  oars  of  our  men  dipped  the  waves,  it  required  their  utmost  to 
keep  pace  with  the  athletic  scullers  of  Japan.  The  other  American  boats  fol- 
lowed nearly  in  line,  and  the  van  of  the  procession  was  more  than  half-way 
to  the  shore,  when  the  guns  of  the  Susquehanna  announced  the  Commodore's 
departure.  The  gleam  of  arms,  the  picturesque  mingling  of  blue  and  white 
in  the  uniforms,  and  the  sparkling  of  the  waves  under  the  steady  strokes  of 
the  oarsmen,  combined  to  form  a  splendid  picture,  set  off,  as  it  was,  by  the 
background  of  rich  green  hills,  and  the  long  line  of  soldiery  and  banners  on 
the  beach.  All  were  excited  by  the  occasion,  and  the  men  seemed  to  be  as 
much  elated  in  spirits  as  those  who  had  a  more  prominent  part  in  the  proceedings. 
We  all  felt,  that,  as  being  the  first  instance  since  the  expulsion  of  the  Portu- 
guese from  Japan,  when  a  foreign  ambassador  had  been  officially  received  on 
Japanese  soil,  it  was  a  memorable  event  in  the  history  of  both  countries,  and 
that,  if  not  an  augury  of  the  future  and  complete  success  of  the  expedition, 
it  was  at  least  a  commencement  more  auspicious  than  we  had  ventured  to 
anticipate. 

An  impromptu  jetty,  composed  of  bags  of  sand,  had  been  thrown  up  for  the 
occasion,  near  the  center  of  the  crescent-shaped  beach,  at  the  head  of  the 
bight.  Captain  Buchanan,  who  had  command  of  the  party,  was  the  first  to 
leap  ashore.  The  remaining  boats  crowded  rapidly  in  beside  the  jetty,  landed 
as  many  of  their  crews  as  had  been  detailed  for  the  escort  on  shore,  and  then 
pulled  off  about  fifty  yards.  The  seamen  and  marines  were  formed  into  line 
as  soon  as  they  were  landed,  and  presented  a  compact  and  imposing  file  along 
the  beach.  The  detachments  of  seamen  were  under  the  command  of  Lieu- 
tenant John  K.  Duer,  of  the  Susquehanna;  Lieutenant  Charles  M.  Morris, 
of  the  Mississippi ;  Lieutenant  John  Matthews,  of  the  Plymouth ;  and  Passed 
Midshipman  Robert  W.  Scott,  of  the  Saratoga.  Including  the  officers  there 
were  upward  of  three  hundred  and  twenty  persons  landed,  while  the  Japan- 
ese troops  amounted,  as  they  themselves  informed  us,  to  five  thousand.  We 
ind  one  hundred  and  twelve  marines,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  seamen. 


446  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN". 

fifty  officers,  and  thirty  or  forty  musicians.  About  a  hundred  yards  from  the 
beach  stood  the  foremost  files  of  the  Japanese,  in  somewhat  loose  and  strag- 
gling order.  Their  front  occupied  the  whole  beach,  their  right  flank  resting 
upon  the  village  of  Gori-hama,  and  their  left  against  a  steep  hill,  which 
bounded  the  bight  on  the  northern  side.  The  greater  part  were  stationed 
behind  the  canvas  screens,  and  from  the  numbers,  crowded  together  in  the 
rear,  some  of  the  officers  estimated  their  force  at  nearer  ten  than  five  thou- 
sand men.  Those  in  the  front  rank  were  armed  with  swords,  spears  and 
matchlocks,  and  their  uniform  differed  little  from  the  usual  Japanese  costume. 
There  were  a  number  of  horses,  of  a  breed  larger  and  much  superior  to  the 
Chinese,  and  in  the  background  we  saw  a  body  of  cavalry.  On  the  slope  of 
the  hill  near  the  village,  a  great  number  of  natives,  many  of  whom  were 
women,  had  collected,  out  of  curiosity,  to  witness  the  event. 

A  salute  was  fired  from  the  Susquehanna,  as  the  Commodore  left,  accom- 
panied by  his  staff;  Commander  Adams,  Lieutenant  Contee,  and  the  men,  had 
scarcely  been  formed  into  line  before  his  barge  approached  the  shore.  The 
officers  commanding  detachments  were  Commanders  Buchanan  and  Walker, 
and  Lieutenants  Gillis  and  Taylor.  The  officers  composing  the  Commodore's 
escort  formed  a  double  line  from  the  jetty,  and,  as  he  passed  between  them, 
fell  into  the  proper  order  behind  him.  He  was  received  with  the  customary 
honors,  and  the  procession  immediately  started  for  the  place  of  reception.  A 
stalwart  boatswain's  mate  was  selected  to  bear  the  broad  pennant  of  the  Com- 
modore, supported  by  two  very  tall  and  powerful  negro  seamen,  completely 
armed.  Behind  these  followed  two  sailor  boys,  bearing  the  letter  of  the 
President  and  the  Commodore's  letter  of  credence,  in  their  sumptuous  boxes, 
wrapped  in  scarlet  cloth.  Then  came  the  Commodore  himself,  with  his  staff 
and  escort  of  officers.  The  marine  force,  a  fine,  athletic  body  of  men,  com- 
manded by  Major  Zeilin,  with  a  detachment  from  the  Mississippi,  under 
Captain  Slack,  led  the  way,  and  the  corps  of  seamen  from  all  the  ships, 
brought  up  the  rear. 

The  house  of  reception  was  directly  in  front  of  the  landing,  but  an  inter- 
vening screen  rendered  a  slight  detour  necessary  in  order  to  reach  the 
entrance ;  and  Major  Zeilin  made  the  most  of  this  circumstance,  in  order  to 
display  our  forces  to  the  Japanese.  There  certainly  was  a  marked  contrast 
between  the  regular,  compact  files  of  our  men,  and  their  vigorous,  muscular 
figures,  and  the  straggling  ranks  of  the  mild,  effeminate-featured  Japanese. 
In  front  of  the  house  were  two  old  brass  four-pounders,  apparently  of  Span- 
ish manufacture,  and  on  each  side  stood  a  company  of  soldiers,  who  belonged 
either  to  the  Imperial  forces,  or  to  the  body-guard  of  the  Prince.  Those  on 
the  left  wore  a  uniform  somewhat  resembling  the  modern  Egyptian  dress.  It 
was  of  a  dark-gray  color,  having  full  trowsers,  gathered  below  the  knees,  a 
broad  sash  around  the  waist,  and  a  white  cloth,  similar  to  a  turban,  bound 
upon  the  head.  They  were  armed  with  the  old  tower  muskets,  which  are  to 
be  found  in  every  part  of  the  world,  with  flint-locks  and  bayonets.  Those  on 
the  right  wore  a  different  uniform,  exhibiting  a  mixture  of  dull-brown  and 
yellow  in  its  colors,  and  carried  matchlocks  of  an  antique  fashion. 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  447 

Yezaimon  and  the  interpreters  preceded  us,  in  order  to  show  the  way.  The 
distance  from  the  jetty  to  the  door  of  the  building  was  so  short,  that  little 
opportunity  was  given  me  for  noticing  minutely  the  appearance  of  the  Japan- 
ese, or  the  order  of  their  array.  The  building  into  which  the  Commodore 
and  suite  were  ushered  was  small,  and  appeared  to  have  been  erected  in 
haste.  The  timbers  were  of  pine-wood,  and  numbered,  as  if  they  had  been 
brought  from  some  other  place.  The  first  apartment,  which  was  about  forty 
feet  square,  was  of  canvas,  with  an  awning  of  the  same,  of  a  white  ground, 
with  the  Imperial  arms  emblazoned  on  it  in  places.  The  floor  was  covered 
with  white  cotton  cloth,  with  a  pathway  of  red  felt,  or  some  similar  substance, 
leading  across  the  room  to  a  raised  inner  apartment,  which  was  wholly  car- 
peted with  it.  This  apartment,  the  front  of  which  was  entirely  open,  so  that 
it  corresponded  precisely  to  the  divan  in  Turkish  houses,  was  hung  with  fine 
cloth,  containing  the  imperial  arms,  in  white,  on  a  ground  of  violet.  On  the 
right-hand  was  a  row  of  arm-chairs,  sufficient  in  number  for  the  Commodore 
and  his  staff,  while  on  the  opposite  side  sat  the  Prince,  who  had  been 
appointed  to  receive  the  President's  letter,  with  another  official  of  similar 
rank.  Their  names  were  given  by  the  interpreter  as  "Toda  Idzu-no-Kami," 
Toda,  Prince  of  Idzu,  and  "Ido  Iwami-no-Kami,"  Ido,  Prince  of  Iwami. 
The  Prince  of  Idzu  was  a  man  of  about  fifty,  with  mild,  regular  features,  an 
ample  brow,  and  an  intelligent,  reflective  expression.  He  was  dressed  with 
great  richness,  in  heavy  robes  of  silken  tissue,  wrought  into  elaborate  orna- 
ments with  gold  and  silver  thread.  The  Prince  of  Iwami  was  at  least  fifteen 
years  older,  and  dressed  with  nearly  equal  splendor.  His  face  was  wrinkled 
with  age,  and  exhibited  neither  the  intelligence  nor  the  benignity  of  his  asso- 
ciate. They  both  rose  and  bowed  gravely  as  the  Commodore  entered,  but 
immediately  resumed  their  seats,  and  remained  as  silent  and  passive  as  statues 
during  the  interview. 

At  the  head  of  the  room  was  a  large,  scarlet,  lacquered  box,  with  brazen 
feet,  beside  which  Yezaimon  and  the  interpreter,  Tatsonoske,  knelt.  The 
latter  then  asked  whether  the  letters  were  ready  to  be  delivered,  stating  that 
the  Prince  was  ready  to  receive  them.  The  boxes  were  brought  in,  opened, 
so  that  the  writing  and  the  heavy  golden  seals  were  displayed,  and  placed 
upon  the  scarlet  chest.  The  Prince  of  Iwami  then  handed  to  the  interpreter, 
who  gave  it  to  the  Commodore,  an  official  receipt  in  Japanese,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  the  interpreter  added  a  Dutch  translation.  The  Commodore 
remarked  that  he  would  sail  in  a  few  days  for  Loo  Choo  and  Canton,  and  if 
the  Japanese  government  wished  to  send  any  dispatches  to  those  places,  he 
would  be  happy  to  take  them.  Without  making  any  direct  reply,  the  inter- 
preter asked:  "When  will  you  come  again  V  The  Commodore  answered, 
"As  I  suppose  it  will  take  some  time  to  deliberate  upon  the  letter  of  the 
President,  I  shall  not  wait  now,  but  will  return  in  a  few  months  to  receive 
the  answer."  He  also  spoke  of  the  revolution  in  China,  and  the  interpreter 
asked  the  cause  of  it,  without  translating  the  communication  to  the  Prince. 
He  then  inquired  when  the  ships  would  return  again,  to  which  the  Commo- 
dore replied  that  they  would  probably  be  there  in  April  or  May.     "All  four 


448  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAH. 

of  them?"  lie  aske^l.  "All  of  them,"  answered  the  Commodore,  "and 
probably  more.  This  is  but  a  portion  of  the  squadron."  No  further  con- 
versation took  place.  The  letters  having  been  formally  delivered  and 
received,  the  Commodore  took  his  leave,  while  the  two  Princes,  who  had  ful- 
filled to  the  letter  their  instructions  not  to  speak,  rose,  and  remained  standing 
until  he  had  retired  from  their  presence. 

The  return  to  the  boats  was  made  in  the  same  order,  the  bands  playing 
"Hail  Columbia"  and  "Yankee  Doodle"  with  more  spirit  than  ever  before, 
and  few  of  those  present,  I  venture  to  say,  ever  heard  our  national  airs  with 
more  pride  and  pleasure.  Yezaimon,  Saboroske  and  the  two  interpreters 
attended  the  Commodore  to  the  boat,  and  as  the  embarkation  of  the  different 
boats'  crews  occupied  some  time,  on  account  of  the  smallness  of  the  jetty, 
several  of  the  Japanese  soldiers  profited  by  the  delay  to  come  down  and  exam- 
ine us  more  closely.  Many  of  our  men  strayed  along  the  beach,  picking  up 
shells  and  pebbles  as  mementos  of  the  visit.  In  less  than  twenty  minutes, 
however,  all  were  embarked,  and  we  returned  to  the  ships,  accompanied  by 
the  two  Japanese  boats  which  had  piloted  us  to  the  shore.  Before  twelve 
o'clock  the  anchors  were  lifted,  and  both  vessels  were  under  way  on  a  cruise 
up  the  bay. 

Yezaimon,  Saboroske  and  the  interpreters,  accepted  an  invitation  to  remain 
on  board  until  we  reached  Uraga,  and  have  their  boats  towed  at  our  stern. 
This  gave  them  a  chance  of  seeing  the  steam-engine  in  operation,  for  which 
they  expressed  a  great  desire.  They  were  conducted  over  the  ship  and  saw 
the  engine  from  all  points  of  view,  betraying  a  great  deal  of  curiosity  in  regard 
to  its  operation,  but  no  fear.  They  even  obtained  a  glimmering  idea  of  the 
manner  in  which  the  steam  acted,  to  set  the  enormous  mass  in  motion.  Tat- 
sonoske  asked  if  it  was  not  the  same  machine,  in  a  smaller  compass,  which 
we  used  on  railroads.  During  their  inspection  of  the  ship  they  saw  many 
things  which  must  have  been  new  and  strange  to  them,  but  their  composure 
and  self-possession  was  not  in  the  least  disturbed.  Notwithstanding  the  docks 
were  crowded  with  officers  and  men,  whose  curiosity  to  see  them  was  very 
great,  they  were  to  all  appearance  unconscious  of  it,  and  conducted  themselves 
with  as  much  ease  and  propriety  as  I  ever  saw  among  the  most  refined 
people. 

While  going  their  rounds,  their  swords  were  left  in  the  cabin,  and  most  of 
the  officers  made  use  of  the  opportunity  to  examine  them.  The  steel  was  of 
admirable  quality,  and  kept  in  good  condition,  although  the  shape  of  the  blade 
was  rather  unwieldy,  and  the  handle  was  without  a  guard.  The  scabbards 
were  made  of  shark-skin,  very  handsomely  polished.  While  in  the  cabin,  a 
globe  was  brought,  and  the  position  of  the  United  States  shown  to  the  Japan- 
ese. Tatsonoske  immediately  pointed  out  Washington  and  New  York,  and 
seemed  tolerably  familiar  with  the  geography  of  our  country,  as  well  as  that 
of  Europe.  He  asked  whether  in  America  many  of  the  roads  were  not  cut 
through  the  mountains — evidently  referring  to  railroads.  Yezaimon  expressed 
his  desire  to  examine  a  revolver,  several  of  which  the  Japanese  had  noticed 
in  the  officers'  belts.  Commander  Buchanan  fired  off  all  the  chambers  of  a 
genuine  "Colt,"  from  the  quarter  deck,  to  his  great  astonishment.     Before 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN  449 

we  had  half  gratified  their  curiosity,  (which  the  steam-whistle  raised  to  the 
highest  pitch,)  we  were  off  Uraga,  and  they  were  obliged  to  leave. 

As  we  moved  out  past  the  promontory  of  Uraga,  the  western  shore  opened 
on  the  left,  showing  a  broad,  deep  bay,  embosomed  by  hills  covered  with  the 
greenest  and  most  luxuriant  foliage,  and  with  several  large  villages  at  their 
base.  We  approached  within  three  miles  of  the  eastern  shore,  which  is 
loftier  and  wilder  than  the  western,  rising  into  a  range  of  rugged  mountains, 
which  showed  no  signs  of  habitation  or  cultivation.  But  the  lower  slopes, 
which  undulated  gently  to  the  water,  charmed  me  by  the  rich  beauty  of 
their  scattered  groves,  and  the  green  terraces  and  lawns  into  which  centuries 
of  patient  cultivation  has  formed  them.  This  side  of  England  there  is  noth- 
ing so  green,  so  garden-like,  so  full  of  tranquil  beauty.  To  the  north  the  hills 
gradually  sank  away,  and  a  sandy  spur,  three  or  four  miles  in  length,  stretched 
into  the  bay.  This  proved  to  be  the  ground  whereon  we  had  seen  the  parade 
of  Japanese  soldiers,  when  the  surveying  boats  ascended  the  bay.  The  two 
mounds,  which  I  had  noticed  through  a  glass,  were  surmounted  with  batteries 
of  about  five  guns  each. 

Changing  our  course,  we  made  over  toward  the  other  side,  steering  for  a 
bold,  projecting  headland,  about  twelve  miles  beyond  that  of  Uraga.  In  the 
intervening  bight,  to  which  Lieutenant  Bent,  as  the  first  surveyor,  gave  the 
name  of  "  Perry's  Bay,"  there  are  two  lovely,  green  islands.  The  shores 
of  the  bay  are  as  thickly  settled  and  as  assiduously  cultivated,  as  about  and 
below  Uraga.  During  the  voyage  up,  we  had  at  no  time  less  than  seven 
fathoms,  and  generally  from  thirty  to  forty.  After  going  a  short  distance 
beyond  the  point  reached  by  the  Mississippi,  and  upward  of  ten  miles  beyond 
our  former  anchorage,  we  dropped  anchor  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore, 
in  thirteen  fathoms.  The  inward-bound  junks,  I  noticed,  made  for  a  point  a 
little  east  of  the  north,  from  our  position.  According  to  the  Japanese  charts, 
and  the  best  description  of  Yedo,  this  must  have  been  the  direction  of  the 
capital.  A  long,  low  he"adland  was  visible  with  the  glass,  with  (apparently,) 
another  bight  beyond  it;  but  to  the  north-east,  for  a  segment  of  about  30°, 
no  land  could  be  seen.  This  also  corresponded  to  the  form  of  the  bay,  as 
given  in  Japanese  charts. 

On  the  following  day,  (Friday,)  Lieutenants  Cooper,  of  the  Susquehanna; 
Clitz,  of  the  Mississippi ;  Goldsborough,  of  the  Saratoga ;  and  Matthews,  of 
the  Plymouth,  sounded  around  the  islands,  and  up  to  the  head  of  the  bight, 
where  they  found  a  deep  inlet,  into  which  flowed  a  beautiful  river.  The  banks 
were  studded  with  villages,  groves,  and  gardens,  and  the  officers  were  enrap- 
tured with  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  natives  of  both  sexes,  old  and 
young,  came  down  the  banks  and  saluted  them  in  a  friendly  manner,  bringing 
them  cool  spring-water  to  drink,  and  ripe  peaches  from  their  gardens. 

On  Friday  afternoon,  the  Commodore  went  on  board  the  Mississippi,  trans- 
ferring his  broad  pennant  to  that  ship  for  a  few  hours,  while  he  made  an 
exploring  trip  still  further  up  the  bay.  After  going  ten  miles  in  the  direction 
of  Yedo,  the  Mississippi  put  about  in  twenty  fathoms  of  water,  and  returned 
to  her  former  anchorage,  having  reached,  as  was  supposed,  a  point  within 
sight  miles  if  the  capital.  On  the  western  shore  the  large  towns  of  Kanagawa 
29 


450  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN. 

and  Kowazacki  -were  seen;  -while,  on  the  extremity  of  a  cape  in  front, 
not  more  than  four  miles  distant,  stood  a  tall,  white  tower,  resembling  a  light- 
house. Three  or  four  miles  beyond,  and  within  this  point,  was  a  crowd  of  ship- 
ping, which  was,  without  doubt,  the  anchorage  of  Sinagawa,  the  southern 
suburb  of  Yedo.  There  was  every  probability  that  the  Mississippi  could 
have  advanced  to  a  point  within  cannon-shot  of  the  city.  The  head  of  the 
bay  rounded  to  the  eastward,  and  in  that  direction  the  shores  became  low  and 
flat,  and  finally  disappeared  below  the  horizon.  We  have,  therefore,  advanced 
twenty  miles  further  up  the  Bay  of  Yedo  than  any  vessels  before  us,  and 
shown  conclusively  that,  instead  of  being  shallow  and  unnavigable,  as  has 
formerly  been  supposed,  it  contains  abundance  of  water  and  excellent  har- 
bors. It  is,  in  fact,  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  bays  in  the  world,  and  second 
to  none  in  the  varied  and  delightful  scenery  of  its  shores. 

Early  on  Saturday  morning  we  moved  from  our  first  anchorage  to  another, 
five  or  six  miles  further  down  the  bay,  and  much  nearer  to  the  shore.  The 
surveying  boats  were  occupied  during  the  whole  of  the  day,  without  any 
interference  on  the  part  of  the  Japanese.  When  we  consider  that  this,  one 
of  the  greatest  bays  in  the  world,  has  never  yet  been  surveyed,  the  interest 
and  value  of  their  labors  will  be  better  understood. 

Yezaimon  came  again,  on  Saturday  morning,  accompanied  by  both  the 
interpreters.  This  time  they  brought  a  number  of  presents,  as  souvenirs  of 
our  visits — consisting  of  lacquered  cups,  very  light  and  elegant  in  form,  bro- 
cade silks,  richly  wrought  with  gold  and  silver  thread,  tobacco  pipes  and 
pouches,  and  fans  covered  with  hideously  distorted  and  lackadaisical  pictures 
of  Japanese  ladies.  The  Commodore  was  willing  to  receive  them,  but  insisted 
on  giving  something  in  return.  A.  selection  of  American  manufactures  was 
made,  which,  with  some  maps,  engravings,  arms,  etc.,  formed  a  return  more 
than  equal  in  value.  They  refused  to  take  anything,  affirming  that  it  was 
forbidden  by  their  laws,  and  would  subject  them  to  the  danger  of  losing  their 
lives ;  beside,  they  said,  the  presents  offered  them  were  too  valuable  to  be 
accepted.  They  were  willing  to  receive,  each,  some  small  articles  which  they 
could  conceal  about  their  persons.  They  were  positively  informed  that  we  would 
accept  of  nothing  unless  they  took  our  gifts,  with  the  exception  of  the  arms, 
which  were  removed,  as  they  stated  that  they  could  in  no  case  give  or  receive 
arms.  When  Yezaimon  saw  his  presents  about  to  be  tumbled  back  into  his 
boat,  he  yielded  at  once,  choosing  what  he  probably  considered  the  least 
dangerous  horn  of  the  dilemma. 

In  the  afternoon  they  returned  in  the  best  possible  humor,  their  course 
having,  probably,  been  sanctioned  by  some  higher  authority  on  shore.  They 
brought  off  a  quantity  of  fowls  in  light  wicker  coops,  and  three  or  four  thou- 
sand eggs  in  boxes,  taking  away  in  return  a  large  box  of  American  garden- 
seeds.  The  interview  lasted  a  considerable  time,  as  they  were  socially  dis- 
posed, and  partook  of  refreshments,  both  solid  and  liquid.  Tatsonoske 
stated,  in  a  half  confidential  way,  that  the  letter  of  the  President  had  been 
received  in  Yedo,  and  that  if  the  translation,  which  they  had  already  received 
through  the  Dutch,  corresponded  with  the  original,  the  government  would  be 
disposed  to  regard  it  very  favorably.     He  also  hinted  that  Yezaimon  would 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  451 

shortly  be  promoted  to  a  much  higher  rank.  The  latter  was  exceedingly 
jovial,  and  stated,  by  an  expressive  pantomime,  that  he  would  shed  tears  on 
the  departure  of  the  squadron.  It  was  dusk  when  the  boat  pulled  off,  and 
the  shadows  of  the  wooded  hills,  lengthening  over  the  water,  soon  hid  from 
sight  the  last  glimpse  of  our  Japanese  friends. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  17th,  we  hove  anchor,  and  started  for  Loo  Choo, 
having,  in  ten  days,  already  accomplished  more  than  any  other  nation  has 
been  able  to  effect  for  the  last  two  centuries.  The  universal  feeling  on  board 
was  one  of  honest  pride  and  exultation.  Knowing  the  cunning  and  duplicity 
of  the  people  with  whom  we  had  to  deal,  it  was  a  satisfaction  to  find  all  their 
arts  of  diplomacy  completely  shattered  by  the  simple,  straight-forward, 
resolute  course  adopted  by  Commodore  Perry.  Nothing  could  have  been 
better  managed  from  first  to  last;  and,  though  I  would  not  encourage  a  too 
sanguine  anticipation  of  the  final  result,  I  am  confident  that  if  he  carries  the 
undertaking  through  in  the  same  spirit  with  which  he  has  begun  it,  he  will 
secure  all  its  most  important  ends." 

Ample  time  having  elapsed  for  the  government  of  Japan  to  decide  upon 
the  policy  of  forming  a  treaty  with  the  young  giant  Republic  of  the  west,  the 
squadron  of  Commodore  Perry  a  second  time  came  to  anchor  in  the  great 
Bay  of  Yedo,  on  the  12th  of  February,  in  the  year  ensuing. 

They  were  received  in  a  very  friendly  manner  by  the  Japanese  officials,  and 
a  day  appointed  for  a  formal  meeting  upon  the  grand  objects  of  the  visit.  In 
the  interval,  entertainments  were  interchanged  by  the  American  and  Japanese 
officers. 

"It  was  during  this  period  that  an  officer  of  the  squadron  approached  Yedo, 
and,  if  he  did  not  actually  enter  it,  at  least,  was  near  enough  to  judge  of  its 
appearance.  The  city  is  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  and  stands  on  an  exten- 
sive plain,  with  a  magnificent  back-ground  of  the  mountains  and  wooded 
country;  but  it  seems  to  possess  no  striking  public  buildings,  while  the  dwell- 
ing-houses are  generally  of  one  story,  and,  therefore,  present  nothing  impos- 
ing in  their  appearance,  except  their  vast  numbers,  and  the  space  they  occupy. 
The  population  of  the  capital  has,  however,  been  greatly  exaggerated,  for, 
though  it  is  certainly  great,  the  Japanese  officers  themselves  placed  Yedo 
third  among  the  cities  in  the  world,  London,  they  said,  being  the  first,  and 
Paris  the  second. 

On  the  8th  of  March,  the  preparations  were  completed  for  the  reception  of 
the  Commodore.  About  noon  the  officers,  sailors,  and  marines,  proceeded  to 
the  shore  and  formed  a  procession ;  then  moved  forward,  the  band  playing 
"Hail  Columbia"  and  the  "President's  March."  On  entering  the  hall, 
prepared  for  this  object,  the  Commodore  was  received  by  four  commissioners. 

The  party  being  seated,  the  flag  of  Japan  was  run  up  on  board  the  Pow- 
hatan, and  saluted  with  twenty-one  guns  from  the  launches,  after  which 
another  salute  of  seventeen  guns  was  given  to  the  Japanese  High  Commis- 
sioner, who,  through  the  interpreter,  presented  his  compliments  and  welcome 
to  the  Commodore  and  his  officers,  and  particularly  inquired  about  the  health 
of  the  former.  At  a  sign  given,  the  servants  in  attendance  brought  in 
lacquered  stands  with  tea  and  saki,  sweetmeats,  and  other  conserves,  and 


452  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN. 

placed  one  beside  each  officer.  The  regalement  seems  to  have  been  much  the 
same  as  that  which  in  China  generally  precedes  the  transaction  of  business 
with  foreign  officials ;  and,  while  it  was  going  on,  there  was  time  to  take  a  note 
fi  the  place  of  meeting.  The  hall,  which  had  been  run  up  with  great  celerity, 
was  about  fifty  feet  long,  forty  wide,  and  twelve  high,  and  surrounded  with 
magnificent  japonicas,  some  of  them  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  in  full  bloom. 
Seats  and  tables,  about  two  feet  high,  covered  with  red  cloth,  extended  the 
whole  length  of  the  apartment.  The  floor  was  covered  with  white  mats, 
about  three  feet  long  by  two  wide ;  and  the  place  was  heated  by  highly  orna- 
mented braziers  placed  on  beautiful  Japan  stands.  The  pillars,  supporting 
the  erection,  were  ornamented  with  purple  crape,  and  the  walls  were  richly 
adorned  with  paintings  of  birds  and  flowers.  The  hall  was  situated  about 
five  hundred  yards  from  the  landing-place,  and  was  commanded  by  the  ships, 
which  lay  with  their  broadsides  to  it.  Several  native  artists  were  present 
taking  sketches  of  the  strangers. 

The  refreshments  being  over,  the  Commodore  and  his  personal  staff,  were 
conducted  by  the  Japanese  commissioners  into  another  room  in  the  rear,  the 
entrance  to  which  was  covered  with  purple  crape.  The  conference  lasted 
three  hours,  and  was  carried  on  through  the  Dutch  language,  which  the 
Japanese  interpreters,  Mats-ma-ki,  and  Mich-i-taso,  and  Mr.  Portman,  the 
Commodore's  clerk,  spoke  fluently.  A  very  favorable  answer  was  given  to  the 
President's  letter.  A  draft-treaty,  in  English,  Dutch,  Chinese  and  Japanese,  was 
put  into  the  hands  of  the  Japanese  commissioners,  who  said  that  it  would 
receive  due  consideration ;  but  the  old  Emperor  had  died  since  Commodore 
Perry  was  there,  last  year,  and  his  successor  was  a  young  man,  who  would 
require  to  consult  his  council  before  coming  to  a  determination ;  and  the 
Commodore  was  reminded  that  Japanese  did  not  act  with  the  same  rapidity 
as  Americans  did;  which  was  thus  illustrated:  Should  several  Japanese  meet 
together,  desiring  to  visit  the  American  ships,  one  would  say,  "It  is  a  beauti- 
ful morning !"  to  which  another  would  add,  "How  pleasant  it  is  !"  then  a  third 
would  remark,  "There  is  not  then  a  wave  to  be  seen  upon  the  water;"  at 
length  a  fourth  would  suggest,  "Come  let  us  go  and  see  the  ships."  That 
the  preliminaries  of  a  treaty  would  be  settled  during  the  present  visit,  was 
however,  they  said,  more  than  probable. 

During  this  conference,  Commodore  Perry  mentioned  that  one  of  the 
marines  had  died,  and  requested,  and  was  given  permission  to  bury  him  on 
shore.  Before  the  funeral  took  place,  the  Japanese  officials  came  on  board 
to  view  the  body,  for  which  purpose  the  coffin  was  opened ;  and,  after  the 
burial,  one  of  them  remarked  that,  according  to  the  inscription  on  the  lid,  the 
man  was  a  native  of  Ireland,  not  of  America;  but  the  explanation  that 
followed  proved  quite  satisfactory.  In  the  course  of  the  arrangement  for  the 
funeral,  the  prudence  of  President  Fillmore's,  and  Secretary  Webster's 
assurance  on  the  subject  of  religion,  was  shown.  The  Japanese  said  they 
had  observed  it  with  pleasure,  and  quite  understood  the  distinction  between 
Protestants  and  Roman  Catholics. 

Before  the  interview  broke  up,  the  Commodore  mentioned  that  he  proposed 
to  give  his  officers  leave  to  go  on  shore  for  recreation.     To  this  no  great 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  453 

objection  was  made,  and  within  a  few  days  afterward  several  of  the  officers 
were  taking  exercise  on  shore.  Rev.  E.  C.  Bittinger,  the  chaplain,  made 
several  excursions  among  the  villages  and  cornfields,  which  last  he  found  in 
high  cultivation.  The  houses  were  generally  thatched,  but  those  of  the  better 
sort  were  covered  with  tiles,  having  yards,  and  small  gardens,  within 
inclosures. 

The  following  day,  the  same  gentleman,  finding  the  people  neither  unfriendly 
nor  indisposed  to  receive  him,  and  having  obtained  leave  to  go  on  shore, 
determined  to  visit  two  large  cities  some  miles  off,  called  Kanagawa  and 
Kasacca,  and,  with  that  view,  crossed  an  arm  of  the  bay,  which  shortened  the 
distance  by  several  miles.  He  then  proceeded  through  Kanagawa,  supposed 
to  contain  from  one  to  two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants ;  and  from  the 
immense  crowds  that  poured  out  everywhere  to  see  the  stranger,  there  can 
be  no  doubt  of  the  population  being  very  great.  The  crowds,  however, 
caused  no  inconvenience  or  impediment,  for  on  a  wave  of  the  hand  from  the 
Japanese  officials  who  accompanied  Mr.  Bittinger,  the  people  cleared  a  pas- 
sage; and,  afterward,  a  messenger  having  been  sent  forward  for  the  purpose, 
the  people  packed  themselves  at  the  sides  of  the  houses,  and  left  the  center 
of  the  street  clear  for  the  stranger.  He  entered  some  of  the  houses,  which 
he  found. primitive  in  their  furniture  and  arrangements;  but,  compared  with 
other  oriental  dwellings  of  the  same  class,  neat,  clean  and  comfortable.  In 
some  of  them  he  observed  clocks  of  Japanese  manufacture.  He  also  visited 
several  temples,  which,  though  smaller  than  in  China,  have  more  gilding  on 
their  walls,  and  ornaments  on  their  idols,  and  generally,  are  in  better  order. 
The  priests,  as  well  as  the  people,  were  distinguished  for  their  courtesy.  The 
cities  thus  visited  were  not  only  very  extensive,  (estimated  to  be  six  miles 
long,)  but  with  wide,  well-formed  streets.  Kasacca  is  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
miles  distant,  by  land,  from  the  ships ;  and  Mr.  Bittinger  being  thus  neces- 
sarily long  absent,  some  anxiety  was  felt  about  him.  As  he  was  returning, 
a  Japanese  officer  put  into  his  hands  an  order  from  the  Commodore  for  all 
officers  to  return  on  board,  and  shortly  afterward,  a  courier  mounted  on  a 
splendid  black  horse,  delivered  a  similar  dispatch,  and  finding  it  was  under- 
stood, and  acted  on,  turned  round,  and  galloped  back  again  to  report  the 
approach  of  the  American  officer,  who  concluded  his  journey  by  torch-light, 
and  found  on  his  arrival  that  everything  that  had  occurred  had  been  noted, 
even  the  number  of  buttons  on  his  coat  beinor  recorded. 

o 

On  the  13th,  Captain  Abbott,  of  the  Macedonian,  superintended  the  land- 
ing of  the  presents,  and  the  ensuing  week  was  entirely  devoted  to  unpacking 
and  arranging  them,  and  to  putting  the  railroad,  telegraph,  and  other  machines 
in  motion.  The  Japanese  observed  everything  with  a  mixture  of  wonder  and 
admiration,  and  some  of  the  incidents  excited  their  merriment  not  a  little.  It 
was,  indeed,  a  curious  sight  to  see  the  little  locomotive,  tender,  and  passenger- 
car,  only  a  quarter  the  ordinary  size,  and,  by  the  way,  the  neatest  piece  of 
work  that  ever  went  out  of  Norris's  manufactory.  It  was  driven  by  Mr.  Gay, 
chief-engineer  of  the  Mississippi,  and  Mr.  Danby,  first  assistant,  who  occa- 
sionally took  a  company  of  Japanese  into  the  car,  and  whizzed  around  with 
them,  while  crowds  of  the  natives  looked  on  with  the  utmost  astonishment. 


454  PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN. 

The  electric  telegraph  excited  the  greatest  wonder,  especially  as  Mr.  Draper 
sent  messages  in  Dutch,  and  even  in  Japanese,  which  the  interpreter  wrote 
with  English  letters. 

On  the  24th,  all  the  preparations  were  completed,  and  the  Commodore 
again  went  ashore  to  deliver  the  presents  formally  to  the  Commissioners,  who 
had  prepared  an  entertainment  for  the  occasion,  and,  at  the  same  time,  to 
receive  the  presents  which  the  Emperor  had  sent  in  return.  These  consisted 
chiefly  of  silks,  crapes,  some  very  fine  lacquered  ware,  china,  silver,  arms, 
household  utensils,  coins,  etc.,  and  several  hundred  bags  of  rice,  which  were 
piled  up  in  a  heap  outside  of  the  house.  After  the  presents  had  been  given 
and  received,  and  the  Commodore  was  just  leaving  the  house  to  show  the 
railroad  to  the  Commissioner,  about  thirty  very  large  and  powerfully  built 
men  made  their  appearance.  They  were  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  blue 
silk  scarf,  twisted  about  the  loins.  They  seized  the  sacks,  which  weighed 
about  two  hundred  pounds  each,  swung  them  at  arm's  length  above  their 
heads,  and  carried  them,  in  this  manner,  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  fifty 
yards,  performing  many  antics  and  feats  of  strength  by  the  way. 

When  the  Commodore  and  commissioners  had  returned  to  the  house,  all 
the  windows  on  one  side  of  the  building  were  suddenly  thrown  open,  show- 
ing a  circular  space  outside,  where  the  ground  had  been  made  smooth  and 
free  from  stones.  The  thirty  giants  soon  entered  the  ring  in  procession,  while 
the  judges  and  umpires  of  the  sports  took  their  seats  opposite.  The  men 
successively  engaged  in  wrestling  matches,  which  consisted  chiefly  in  taking 
hold  of  each  other  under  the  shoulders,  and  trying  to  push  the  antagonist 
out  of  the  ring,  to  effect  which  many  of  them  violently  dashed  their  heads 
against  each  other's  breasts,  at  the  same  time  setting  up  an  infernal  howl. 

On  the  27th,  Commodore  Perry  entertained  the  Imperial  Commissioners 
on  board  the  Powhatan.  The  boat  left  Kunagawa  at  one  o'clock,  under  a 
salute  of  seventeen  guns  from  the  Mississippi,  and  first  took  them  on  board 
the  Macedonia,  where  they  were  shown  a  general  exercise  of  the  crew. 
With  the  appearance  and  efficiency  of  the  men,  and  the  fine  order  of  the 
ship,  they  were  greatly  delighted.  The  Powhatan  had  the  Imperial  Japanese 
flag  hoisted  at  the  foremast,  and  the  banner  of  the  Commissioner  Hy-a-shi- 
no-kami  at  the  mizzen.  As  the  boats  got  under  way  again,  a  salute  was  fired 
from  the  Macedonia.  The  bulwarks  of  the  Powhatan  were  decorated  with 
flags,  arms  and  flowers.  In  the  cabin  a  table  was  set  for  the  Commodore, 
four  commissioners,  and  the  different  captains  of  the  squadron,  and  another 
in  horse-shoe  form  on  the  quarter-deck,  in  order  to  accommodate  the  followers 
of  the  commissioners,  (about  forty  in  number,)  and  the  officers  of  the  squad- 
ron, who  assembled  in  large  numbers  to  do  them  honor.  The  guests  were 
greatly  pleased  with  the  entertainment.  The  toast :  "  The  Zigovon  of  Japan!'* 
was  responded  to  by  the  Japanese  commissioners  with  "  The  President  of  the 
United  States!"  and  both  were  drank  with  great  enthusiasm.  Other  toasts 
followed — "Our  Guests,"  "The  Ladies,"  "Our  Friends  at  Home,"  "Com- 
modore Perry,"  "The  Commissioners,"  etc.,  etc.,  until  the  hilarity  was 
universal.     A  performance  of  some  of  the  sailors;  who  blackened  their  faces 


PERRY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN.  455 

and  sang  the  classic  negro  melodies  of  America,  excited  the  greatest  merri- 
ment among  the  Japanese. 

On  the  31st  of  March,  the  treaty  was  signed.  It  secures  assistance  for  our 
vessels,  in  case  of  distress;  provides  that  they  shall  be  furnished  with  wood, 
water,  coal,  and  provisions,  at  fixed  and  reasonable  prices;  establishes  a  scale 
of  the  value  of  coin,  a  standard  of  weights  and  measures ;  and  provides  for 
the  carrying  on  of  commerce  with  Japan  by  the  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
In  short,  the  expedition  obtained  everything  that  could  have  been  hoped  for 
from  it.  We  have  established  a  much  more  intimate  relationship  with  Japan 
than  any  other  nation  has  ever  been  able  to  accomplish,  and  all  without  sub- 
mitting to  one  of  those  degrading  impositions  on  the  part  of  the  Japanese, 
that  other  nations  have  accepted  without  accomplishing  their  aims.  Commo- 
dore Perry  deserves  great  praise  for  his  firmness,  and  the  admirable  manner 
in  which  he  sustained  the  dignity  of  the  nation.  It  is  impossible  that  any 
other  course  would  have  been  successful. 

To  him  alone,  belongs  the  glory  of  having  broken  down  the  barriers  which, 
for  two  and  a  half  centuries,  have  separated  Japan  from  the  world — and  all 
this  without  the  firirg  of  a  single  gun,  or  the  utterance  of  a  single  menace." 

This  treaty  was  followed  by  others  with  the  various  European  powers,  and 
with  our  own  country  through  Mr.  Townsend  Harris,  by  which  further  priv- 
ileges were  given.  "  They  gave  the  right  of  residence  at  Yedo,  and  of  trav- 
eling freely  through  the  empire  to  the  diplomatic  agents  of  the  treaty  powers, 
and  to  the  subjects  of  these  powers  the  right  to  lease  ground  at  some  six  or 
eight  different  ports,  to  build,  trade,  practice  freely  their  respective  religions, 
and  to  enter  the  country  at  the  distance  of  twenty-five  English  miles." 


AUSTRALIA, 


THK 


LAND     OF     GOLD 


LIFE     IN     THE      BUS 


Dhcovxet  of  Australia— The  Great  Desert— Climate— Soil  and  productions— The  Abori 
ghn*>-  -The  Transportation  system— Convicts  first  transported  to  America— Story  of 
Mol3  Flanders,  of  thfc.  early  settlers  of  Virginia — Kidnapping  and  Transportation  of 
persons  from  England  vo  America — Case  of  Peter  Williamson — The  Revolutionary  War 
closes  America  against  Bri^sh  Convicts — Australia  selected  as  a  penal  colony — Horrible 
condition  of  Society,  and  ib>>  sufferings  of  the  early  settlers  —  The  Bush  Rangers — Intro- 
duction of  flocks  and  herds  -  1  new  class  of  Emigrants,  and  life  among  them — The  dis- 
covery of  gold- 

Australia,  sometimes  determinated  the  Fifth,  or  Pick-pocket  Continent,  is 
the  largest  island  in  the  world,  and  about  the  size  of  Europe.  Its  form 
approaches  a  square,  and  the  extreme  distance  across  it  from  east  to  west,  is 
3000,  and  from  north  to  soutfr  2000  miles — the  first  measurement  beinjr 
something  greater  than  th«^  distance  from  Boston,  Mass.,  across  the  continent 
of  North  America  to  San  Francisco  in  California,  and  the  second  twice  the 
distance  from  New  York  to  the  Mississippi  River. 

A  few  discoveries  were  made  on  the  coast  of  Australia  one  hundred  and 
thirty  years  after  the  discovery  of  America,  but  no  reliable  information  was 
obtained  until  a  century  latei,  when  it  was  successively  visited  by  several 
Dutch  navigators,  and  the  name  of  New  Holland  given.  Yet  it  was  not 
until  five  years  previous  to  the  outbreak  of  the  American  Revolution,  that 

457 


458  AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAUD  OF  GOLD, 

was  revealed  to  the  civilized  world  that  it  was  a  continent.  This  was  through 
the  instrumentality  of  the  celebrated  Oapt.  Cook,  who  surveyed  its  eastern 
coast,  and  came  to  the  conclusion  perhaps  dimly  surmised  by  previous 
navigators. 

The  island  is  mostly  surrounded  by  almost  continuous  ranges  of  low 
mountains.  Its  habitable  portions  are  limited  to  their  slopes,  and  the  space 
between  them  and  the  coast.  The  width  of  this  habitable  belt  where  explored, 
in  no  case  exceeds  over  two  or  three  hundred  miles,  and  elsewhere  is  prob- 
ably much  less.  The  interior  is  one  vast  sunken  desert,  more  hopelessly 
barren  and  uninhabitable  than  Sahara.  Australia,  therefore,  presents  a  small 
proportion  of  habitable  territory  compared  to  the  other  continents. 

**  This  great  interior  desert  has  probably  never  been  traversed  by  the  foot 
of  man  ;  and  only  two  or  three  expeditions  have  ever  penetrated  far  into  its 
depths.  The  farthest  point  attained  was  by  Captain  Sturt  in  1844.  He 
made  his  way  some  four  hundred  miles  beyond  the  habitable  limits,  which 
brought  him  very  nearly  into  the  geographical  center  of  the  island.  This 
he  found  occupied  by  an  immense  plain  covered  with  ridges  of  drifting  sand, 
often  rising  to  the  height  of  eighty  or  a  hundred  feet,  and  stretching  away 
in  either  direction  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  In  isolated  spots  grew  a 
few  solitary  tufts  of  grass,  the  necessary  moisture  for  whose  sustenance  was 
supplied  by  infrequent  thunder  showers.  Permanent  water  there  was  none, 
and  the  sand  was  heated  to  such  a  degree  that  a  match  dropped  upon  it 
became  instantly  ignited.  The  thermometer  on  one  occasion  rose  to  153°  in 
the  coolest  place  to  be  found.  In  the  midst  of  this  sterile  tract  was  a  desert 
of  still  deeper  gloom,  which  was  traced  for  a  distance  of  eighty  miles  in  one 
direction,  and  thirty-five  miles  in  the  other.  Its  surface  was  paved  with  a 
solid  bed  of  dark  ironstone,  upon  which  the  horses'  hoofs  rung  as  upon  a 
metallic  floor,  but  left  not  the  least  impression,  and  in  which  not  the  slightest 
trace  of  water  or  vegetation  was  found. 

Mr.  Leichardt,  a  German  naturalist,  succeeded  in  penetrating  from  the 
settlements  on  the  eastern  coast  through  the  unexplored  interior  to  the 
northern  side  of  the  island  ;  but  his  course  only  led  him  along  the  skirts  of 
the  great  central  desert ;  yet  more  than  once  even  here,  he  was  saved  from 
perishing  with  thirst  by  following  the  flight  of  the  bronze-winged  pigeon 
directing  its  course  to  some  solitary  water-hole.  In  1846  he  set  out  on  a 
new  journey  intending  to  pass  from  the  east  through  the  central  desert  to  the 
little  colony  on  the  western  shore.  The  journey  was  expected  to  occupy  two 
and  a  half  years.  In  April,  1848,  a  letter  was  received  from  him  written 
upon  the  verge  of  habitation,  since  which  time  his  fate  is  unknown  ;  but 
he  doubtless  perished  long  ago  in  the  great  desert." 

As  the  settled  parts  of  Australia  are  as  far  south  of  the  equator  as  Vir- 
ginia and  the  Carolinas  are  north,  their  seasons  are  the  reverse  of  ours,  July 
heing  there  in  mid-winter.  From  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  the  absence 
of  marshes,  and  of  rank  vegetation,  those  great  curses  of  new  countries,  agues 
and  intermittent  fevers  are  unknown  in  the  settled  parts,  and  the  climate  is 
such,  that  the  traveler  can  sleep  in  the  open  air  with  impunity. 

"  The  soil  presents  some  singular  anomalies,  especially  in  respect  to  the  dis- 


AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  Utmi).  459 

tribution  c-f  the  fertile  portions.  In  other  countries  the  fertile  tracts  lie 
usually  in  masses,  and  generally  along  the  courses  of  the  rivers.  In  Austra- 
lia they  occur  in  isolated  patches,  and  most  frequently  upon  the  sides  and 
summits  of  hills.  These  fertile  tracts  are  continually  intersected  by  broad 
plains,  the  soil  of  which  is  too  light  for  cultivation,  though  forming  the  most 
admirable  pasturage  in  the  world,  or  by  barren  tracts  furrowed  by  ravines, 
and  clothed  with  scrub,  entirely  destitute  of  value.  The  best  authorities 
assure  us  that  of  the  land  worth  occupying,  not  more  than  one-third  is  fit  for 
cultivation  ;  the  remaining  two-thirds  being  only  available  for  pasturage- 
grounds."  But  of  that  which  is  fit  for  cultivation,  much  of  it  is  so  rich  that 
four  and  five  successive  crops  of  wheat  are  grown  abundantly.  The  wheat 
frequently  attains  to  the  height  of  seven  feet,  and  yields  seventy  bushels  to 
the  acre  ;  oats  ninety,  and  maize  a  hundred  bushels. 

*'  The  productiveness  of  the  land  adapted  for  agricultural  purposes  is  very 
great,  and  the  range  of  available  productions  is  wide.  With  few  exceptions 
the  trees,  fruits,  vegetables,  and  cerealia  of  the  temperate  zone  flourish, 
beside  many  of  those  belonging  to  those  tropical  regions  farthest  removed 
from  the  equator.  This  is  the  more  remarkable,  because  everything  of  the 
kind  is  exotic. 

When  Australia  was  taken  possession  of  by  the  European  race,  scarcely 
half  a  century  ago,  it  was  by  far  the  most  destitute  of  natural  productions 
of  any  habitable  land  on  the  globe.  No  species  of  grain  was  known  to  the 
natives  ;  not  a  single  fruit  worthy  of  notice  grew  wild  ;  not  an  edible  root  of 
any  value  was  produced.  The  only  game  was  the  shy  kangaroo,  and  a  few 
species  of  birds  ;  domestic  animals  were  unknown  ;  and  the  only  carnivorous 
animal  was  the  dingo  or  native  dog. 

In  some  districts,  especially  upon  the  seaward  slope  of  the  hills,  where 
there  is  an  accumulation  of  moisture,  the  forests  present  something  of  a 
tropical  character ;  lofty  trees  spread  their  umbrageous  branches  about,  with 
great  cable-like  creepers  climbing  from  tree  to  tree,  forming  an  almost  im- 
pervious mass.  But  the  prevalent  native  tree  is  the  f  gum-tree.'  These 
trees  usually  stand  wide  apart,  their  bare  stems  covered  with  ragged  bark 
like  worn-out  matting.  The  leaves  are  few  and  scattered,  so  that  they  afford 
but  little  shade.  They  spread  over  the  most  barren  and  rocky  ground,  where 
there  is  apparently  not  a  particle  of  soil.  The  ground  is  destitute  of  under- 
brush, but  scattered  around  on  the  brown  surface  are  old  decayed  branches 
and  trunks  often  blackened  by  fire,  with  which  also  the  still  living  trees  are 
frequently  scarred.  This  is  'the  Bush'  —  the  scene  of  so  much  wild  ro- 
mance and  startling  adventure  in  the  early  days  of  the  colony. 

But  the  '  Plains'  are  the  characteristic  feature  of  Australia.  These  are 
jpen  park-like  intervals,  where  the  gum-trees  stand  singly  or  in  clumps,  and 
She  undulating  ground  is  covered  with  rich  and  luxuriant  grass.  These 
plains  sometimes  stretch  away  for  hundreds  of  miles,  over  the  broad  plateaux 
and  table-lands,  or  are  broken  by  rocky  ranges,  and  end  in  deep  gullies 
Over  these  plains  the  stockman  drives  his  herds,  or  the  shepherd  his  flocks, 
for  days  or  weeks,  without  meeting  any  serious  interruption  to  his  progress. 
or  without  failure  of  the  pasturage  except  in  seasons  of  drought.     Thes* 


460  AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

plains  are  the  feeding-places  of  those  mighty  herds  of  cattle  and  horses,  and 
those  vast  droves  of  sheep,  'of  noble  race,  whose  feet'  —  so  runs  the  old 
Spanish  saying — 'turn  all  they  touch  to  gold.'  Those  plains  are  the  sources 
of  wealth  to  Australia,  more  permanent,  and  perhaps  not  less  valuable  than 
her  new-found  gold-deposits." 

The  first  settlers,  in  the  natives,  found  none  to  dispute  with  them  possession 
df  the  country,  and  to  repeat  upon  the  soil  of  Australia,  those  horrid  acts  of 
cruelty  and  massacre,  which  mark  the  early  history  of  the  settlement  of  the 
Americamcontinent.  The  aborigines  were  comparatively  few,  they  cultivated 
no  soil,  and  their  only  dwellings  consisted  merely  of  a  few  bits  of  bark  set 
upright  as  a  protection  from  the  wind  ;  a  fire  in  front,  completed  their  habita- 
tion. They  never  probably  numbered  over  a  100,000.  Since  the  settlement 
they  have  fast  melted  away  before  the  rough  convicts  and  settlers,  who  have 
shot  them  down  as  recklessly  as  if  they  had  been  wild  animals.  They  are 
exceedingly  degraded,  entirely  destitute  of  any  form  of  government  or  chief- 
tainship, and  all  attempts  to  civilize  them  have  been  signal  failures.  Like 
our  own  Utah  Indians,  nothing  comes  amiss  to  their  appetites  ;  worms,  the 
larvae  of  insects,  and  human  flesh,  are  eaten  with  the  keenest  relish.  A  large 
white  grub  with  a  black  head,  found  in  the  honeysuckle  and  cherry  tree,  is 
a  peculiarly  favorite  article  of  food.  They  discover  the  grubs  by  knocking 
on  the  tree  and  then  putting  their  ears  to  it  to  listen,  they  will  open  it  with  a 
tomahawk  at  the  very  spot  where  the  grubs  are  to  be  found.  The  women 
carry  their  children  on  their  backs  in  a  basket  or  bag  ;  and  "  when  they 
suckle  them,"  writes  a  late  lady  resident,  "  they  generally  put  their  breast 
tinder  their  arm  ;  and  I  have  seen  them  put  it  over  their  shoulder." 

They  seem  to  have  little  idea  of  the  Supreme  Being  ;  and  like  all  uncivil- 
ized people,  are  profound  believers  in  enchantment  and  sorcery.  The  notion 
of  their  own  origin  is  most  absurd,  viz :  that  they  were  brought  to  this  island 
from  some  unknown  land,  on  the  backs  of  crows.  When  a  person  sleeps, 
they  say,  "he  is  away  over  the  water,"  fancying  that  the  spirit  has  returned 
during  slumber  to  its  native  land.  Their  code  of  honor  is  unique.  The 
challenged  offers  his  hand  to  the  challenger,  who  gives  it  a  smart  blov. 
The  other  in  turn  reciprocates  the  compliment,  and  thus  they  alternately  ooa 
tinue,  until  the  wounded  honor  of  the  offended  party  is  satisfied. 

Their  treatment  of  the  female  sex  is  the  most  atrocious.  Their  courtship 
consists  in  the  most  brutal  violence.  The  intending  husband,  hi>VtBig  con- 
trived to  find  alone  the  unhappy  victim  of  his  inclination,  begina  \jy  beating 
her  to  the  ground  with  a  club,  then  accumulating  blows  upon  bl«  vs,  till  she 
becomes  altogether  senseless,  when  he  drags  her  to  his  hovel,  regardless  of 
her  striking  against  shrubs  and  stones,  till,  under  such  promising  auspices,  she 
is  fixed  in  his  domestic  establishment.  All  their  subsequent  lit  j  is  of  a  piece 
with  this  outset.  Several  of  the  colonists  in  vain  attempted  to  count  the  scars 
with  which  the  heads  of  these  unfortunate  females  were  Vttrieofated.  The 
grandest  ceremony  of  their  life  consists  in  a  sort  of  initiation  of  the  youth, 
by  which  they  are  entitled  to  assume  spear  and  shield,  ani  to  fight.  There 
is  a  general  assemblage  of  the  tribe  and  neighborhood,  and,  after  a  variety 
of  strange  ceremonies  or  dances,  consisting  chiefly  in  itaitaticg  the  gestures 


AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  4G1 

and  movements  of  the  kangaroo,  the  youth  has  a  tooth  struck  out,  and  is 
thereby  invested  with  all  the  prerogatives  of  manhood.  All  attempts  to  wean 
them  from  this  mode  of  life  have  been  abortive.  Bennillong,  one  of  them, 
was  induced  to  go  to  England,  was  there  dressed  after  the  English  fashion, 
behaved  with  tolerable  propriety,  and  appeared  to  enjoy  himself;  but  im- 
mediately on  his  return,  he  found  himself  deserted  and  despised  by  his 
countrymen  for  these  foreign  attainments,  and  lost  no  time  in  resuming  his 
nakedness,  his  wildness,  his  spear  and  his  club.  As  is  usual  among  savages, 
and  in  this  case  but  too  natural,  they  have  done  no  more  than  add  the  vices 
of  the  newly  arrived  colonists  to  their  own.  They  have  learned  drinking 
thieving,  and  importunate  begging.  Endowed  with  great  talents  for  mimicry, 
they  readily  acquire  the  language,  and  become  complete  adepts  in  the  slang 
of  St.  Giles's;  and  in  the  war  of  words  with  the  convicts  they  fearlessly  en- 
counter the  most  able  veteran,  and  generally  come  off  victorious. 

"The  weapons  of  the  aborigines  were  the  club,  the  spear — they  do  not 
seem  to  have  been  acquainted  with  the  bow — and  the  boomerang.  This  last 
weapon  is  peculiar  to  the  aborigines  of  Australia,  and  its  mode  of  action  is  a 
puzzle  to  mathematicians.  It  is  simply  a  crooked  piece  of  hard  wood,  three 
feet  long  and  three  inches  broad,  pointed  at  each  end,  the  concave  side  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  the  convex  side  made  sharp.  The  native  takes  it 
by  one  end,  and  flings  it  sickle-wise  with  his  hand,  when  it  of  course  revolves 
as  though  upon  an  axis.  If  he  wishes  to  strike  an  object  at  a  distance,  he 
flings  it  toward  the  ground,  as  a  boy  does  a  flat  stone  upon  the  water  to  make 
it  'skip.'  And  just  so  the  boomerang  goes  skipping  to  its  mark.  If  he 
wishes  to  throw  it  so  that  it  shall  fall  at  his  own  feet,  he  flings  it  at  a  particu- 
lar angle  up  into  the  air ;  away  goes  the  boomerang  whizzing  and  whirling  in 
ascending  curves,  until  all  at  once  it  turns  short  round,  and  flies  back  directly 
to  its  master.  And  so,  by  altering  the  angle  at  which  it  is  thrown,  the 
weapon  strikes  at  any  point  behind  him.  In  like  manner,  the  boomerang  may 
be  thrown  around  an  intervening  object,  actualizing,  in  a  fashion,  the  old  joke 
of  the  crooked  gun  to  shoot  around  a  corner.  The  weapon  is  useless  in  the 
nands  of  a  European,  being  quite  as  likely  to  strike  the  thrower  as  the  object 
aimed  at ;  but  in  the  hands  of  a  native  it  is  a  formidable  missile,  striking 
from  the  most  unsuspected  direction,  in  spite  of  any  defense.  You  sit  uncon- 
cernedly behind  a  rock  or  tree,  thinking  yourself  safe  from  an  attack  in  the 
rear ;  but  the  boomerang  doubles  the  corner,  and  is  upon  you.  That  inno- 
cent-looking native,  walking  off  with  his  back  to  you,  may  be  at  the  instant 
taking  aim  at  you  with  the  inevitable  back-flying  boomerang.  It  doubtless 
originated  from  the  necessity,  in  hunting  the  kangaroo,  that  the  shy  animal 
should  not  see  his  assailant ;  but  it  is  singular  that  so  barbarous  a  people 
should  have  invented  such  a  weapon." 

The  settlement  of  Australia  arose  from  the  war  of  the  American  revolution. 
The  accumulation  of  criminals  in  the  gaols  of  England  at  the  end  of  that  strug- 
gle was  very  great,  and  projects  for  transporting  them  began  to  be  discussed 
among  the  English  statesmen  and  philanthropists.  America,  which  had  been  the 
grand  outlet  for  banished  rogues  of  the  mother  country,  being  closed  against 
them.     From    a  very  early  day  the  rogues    and  vagabonds  of  the  mothe? 


462  AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

country  were  transported  to  America,  and  sold  as  slaves  to  work  upon  the 
plantations.  Captain  John  Smith,  the  celebrated  founder  of  Virginia,  in 
1619,  in  vain  protested  against  the  introduction  of  this  class  of  persons  ;  bu* 
as  a  kind  of  compensation  for  it  two  lots  of  girls,  150  in  number,  "  young  and 
incorrupt,"  were  sent  out  and  sold  as  wives.  The  first  brought  one  hundred 
and  twenty  pounds  of  tobacco  each,  and  the  second  rather  more. 

De  Foe,  the  celebrated  author  of  Robinson  Crusoe,  in  his  history  of  Moll 
Flanders,  written  in  1683,  "unquestionably  gives  a  true  picture  of  the  life  led 
by  the  convicts  on  the  American  plantations,  as  his  tales  were  generally 
founded  upon  fact."  Moll  Flanders  was  born  in  Newgate,  and,  an  the  story 
runs,  visited  Virginia,  where,  among  the  matters  which  her  mother-in-law 
gossipped  with  her  about  were  those  respecting  the  country  and  the  people. 

"  Among  the  rest,"  says  Moll,  "  she  often  told  me  how  the  greatest  part  of 
the  inhabitants  of  that  colony  came  thither  in  very  indifferent  circumstances, 
from  England  ;  that,  generally  speaking,  they  were  of  two  sorts.  First,  such 
as  were  brought  over  by  masters  of  ships,  to  be  sold  as  servants  ;  or,  Second, 
such  as  are  transported,  after  having  been  guilty  of  crimes  punishable  with 
death.  When  they  come  here,  says  she,  we  make  no  difference  ;  the  planters 
buy  them,  and  they  work  together  in  the  field  until  their  time  is  out  ; 
when  it  is  expired  they  have  encouragement  given  to  plant  for  themselves,  for 
they  have  a  certain  number  of  acres  allotted  them  by  the  country,  and  they 
go  to  work  to  clear  and  cure  the  land,  and  then  to  plant  it  with  tobacco  and 
corn  for  their  own  use  ;  and,  as  the  merchant  will  trust  them  with  tools  and 
necessaries  upon  the  credit  of  their  crop  before  it  is  grown,  so  they  again 
plant  every  year  a  little  more  than  the  year  before,  and  so  buy  whatever 
they  want  with  the  crop  that  is  before  them.  Hence,  many  a  Newgate  bird 
becomes  a  great  man,  and  we  have  several  justices  of  the  peace,  officers  of 
the  trained  bands,  and  magistrates  of  the  towns  they  live  in,  that  have  been 
burnt  in  the  hand.  She  was  going  on  in  that  part  of  the  story,  when  her 
own  part  in  it  interrupted  her,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  good-humored  confi- 
dence, she  told  she  was  one  of  the  second  sort  of  inhabitants  herself;  that  she 
came  away  openly,  having  ventured  too  far  in  a  particular  case,  so  that  she 
was  become  a  criminal;  and  here's  the  mark  of  it,  child,  says  she,  and  showed 
rne  a  very  white  arm  and  hand,  but  branded  in  the  inside  of  the  hand  as  in 
such  cases  it  must  be.  This  story  was  very  moving  to  me,  but  my  mother, 
smiling,  said,  you  need  not  think  such  a  thing  strange,  daughter,  for  some 
of  the  best  men  in   the  country  are  burnt   in  the  hand,  and  they  are  not 

ashamed  to  own  it.     There's  Major ,  says  she,  he  was  an  eminent 

pick-pocket ;  there's  Justice  Ba r,  was  a  shoplifter,  and  both  of  them  were 

burnt   in  the  hand,  and  I  could  name  you  several  such  as  they  are 

'Tis  that  cursed  place,  Newgate,  says  my  mother,  that  half  peoples  this 
colony."  Not  a  very  pleasant  foundation  for  hereditary  pretensions  among 
some  of  the  ancient  families  of  the  Old  Dominion,  if  this  passage  from  the 
fiction  of  De  Foe  be,  indeed,  veritable  truth  ! 

Dr.  Lingard,  in  his  History  of  England,  quotes  a  petition,  describing  the 
condition  of  seventy  persons  apprehended  on  account  of  a  local  rebellion,  whc 
had  been  sold  at  Barbadoes,  for  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty  pound» 


AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  46;} 

of  sugar  apiece,  more  or  less,  according  to  their  working  faculties.  Among 
them  were  divines,  officers,  and  gentlemen,  who  were  represented  as  "grind- 
ing at  the  mills,  attending  at  the  furnaces,  and  digging  in  that  scorching 
island  ;  whipped  at  whipping-posts,  and  sleeping  in  sties  worse  than  hogs  in 
England." 

It  was  not  uncommon  for  those  in  authority  to  use  any  means  to  sell  for 
personal  profit  all  such  unfortunates  as  were  brought  before  them.  For 
instance,  it  is  mentioned  that  the  mayor,  aldermen,  and  justices  of  Bristol, 
finding  their  legal  convicts  few,  and  the  exportation  inconsiderable,  contrived 
to  make  it  more  plentiful.  When,  therefore,  any  petty  rogues  were  brought 
before  them,  they  were  sure  to  be  terribly  threatened  with  hanging.  Upon 
this  some  of  the  officers  attending  were  sure  to  advise  the  ignorant,  intimidated 
creatures  to  pray  for  transportation,  as  the  only  means  of  saving  their  lives  ; 
and,  in  general,  by  some  means  or  other,  the  advice  was  followed  ;  then, 
without  any  more  form,  each  alderman  in  turn  took  one  and  sold  him  for  his 
own  benefit. 

This  system,  and  the  demand  for  labor,  led  to  frequent  cases  of  kidnapping 
the  poor  and  friendless,  and  of  parties  who  had  made  themselves  obnoxious 
to  any  powerful  and  unscrupulous  individuals.  Thus,  debtors  got  rid  of 
their  creditors,  wives  of  their  husbands,  and  guardians  of  their  wards. 

In  London,  one  hundred  years  ago,  were  regular  offices  for  entrapping 
young  men,  who,  pressed  by  temporary  difficulties,  and  unacquainted  with 
the  world,  were  easily  seduced  by  the  keepers,  to  ship  themselves  to  the  new 
world,  where  they  were  to  revel  in  numberless  delights,  but,  where,  in 
reality,  they  were  to  be  plunged  into  the  miseries  of  compulsory  servitude. 
This  practice  went  under  the  name  of  crimping.  In  the  feeble  state  of  the 
press  and  of  public  opinion,  these  atrocities  excited  little  attention. 

And,  worse  than  this,  poor  children  were  stolen  in  large  numbers.  Among 
such  was  Peter  Williamson,  a  Scotch  lad  of  respectable  parentage.  In  1740, 
and  when  ten  years  of  age,  he  was  sent  on  a  visit  to  his  aunt  at  Aberdeen ; 
one  day,  prompted  by  childish  curiosity,  he  strolled  down  to  the  wharf :  while 
looking  at  the  shipping  he  was  accosted  by  two  men,  and  persuaded  to  go  on 
board  their  vessel.  From  the  deck  he  was  invited  to  go  below,  and  there 
found  a  large  number  of  children,  who  had  been  inveigled  on  board  on  the 
same  seductive  promises  as  luckless  Peter. 

From  evidence  afterward  brought  to  light,  it  appears  that  at  least  two 
merchants  were  immediately  concerned  in  this  odious  transaction,  which  was 
not  unknown  to,  and  was  privily  sanctioned  by  the  public  authorities  of 
Aberdeen.  The  trade  was  carried  on  under  the  color  of  indenturing  appren- 
tices for  service  in  the  plantations.  Lads,  it  seems,  from  time  to  time, 
offered  themselves  apprentices  to  go  abroad  ;  parents  also,  occasionally,  from 
the  pressure  of  poverty,  would  bring  a  boy  to  be  enlisted  for  this  pretend - 
edly  desirable  kind  of  employment;  the  magistrates,  likewise,  handed  over  all 
vagrant  youths,  and  by  these  various  means  the  exporters  carried  on  a  trade 
which  does  not  seem  to  have  been  held  as  particularly  infamous,  though  they 
did  not  scruple  to  steal  children  and  dispose  of  them  abroad  as  ai tides  of 
me/  chandize. 


464  AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

The  trade  of  these  Aberdeen  Kidnappers  was  carried  on  with  so  little  leai 
of  legal  impediment  that  Peter  and  the  other  entrapped  children  were  trans- 
ferred from  the  vessel  to  a  barn  in  the  neighborhood  until  the  required  num- 
ber of  youths  was  complete.  The  disappearance  of  the  nephew  alarmed  the 
aunt,  and  communicating  her  suspicions  to  his  father,  he  came  to  Aberdeen 
to  search  for  his  lost  child.  Here,  having  learned  from  rumor,  that  a  num- 
ber of  youths  were  confined  in  a  barn  previous  to  their  deportation  to  America, 
he  proceeded  to  the  spot,  but  was  unable  to  gain  admittance,  nor  was  he  per- 
mitted to  see  his  son.  Abandoning  the  search  as  hopeless,  he  went  home  to 
the  disconsolate  mother  of  his  child.  That  he  should  thus  have  tamely  sub- 
mitted to  being  robbed  of  his  son,  is  ascribable  to  the  partial  administration 
of  justice  in  Scotland  a  century  ago. 

The  barn  at  the  time  contained  from  forty  to  fifty  young  persons  of  differ- 
ent ages,  voluntary  and  compulsory  candidates  for  transportation  ;  and,  while 
carefully  watched  to  prevent  escape,  the  whole  were  kept  in  a  constant  state 
of  merriment  by  the  well-plied  strains  of  a  bagpipe. 

After  a  detention  of  about  a  month  the  vessel  set  sail  for  America.  The 
party  arrived  at  Philadelphia,  and  were  offered  for  sale  to  those  in  want  of 
servants.  The  transaction  proved  profitable,  as  the  captain  sold  the  whole 
lot  at  from  fifty  to  ninety  dollars  apiece.  The  transfer  was  not  for  a  perma- 
nent bondage,  but  only  for  a  limited  term  of  years.  Peter  was  sold  for  seven 
years,  and  brought  the  sum  of  seventy-two  dollars,  which  left  a  handsome 
profit  for  the  trifling  expense  of  his  passage  and  keep  since  the  day  of  his 
capture.  He  was  fortunate  in  being  bought  by  a  countryman,  Hugh  Wilson, 
a  native  of  Perth,  who  had  been  kidnapped  himself,  and  could  compassionate 
others  subjected  to  the  same  calamity.  At  seventeen  years  of  age  Peter  lost 
his  master,  who  bequeathed  to  him  his  liberty,  and  a  large  sum  of  money. 
Without  pursuing  his  history  in  detail  further,  we  only  state  that  he  subse- 
quently married — moved  on  to  the  frontier — was  taken  prisoner  by  the 
Indians — escaped,  and  eventually  returned  to  his  native  country,  where  he 
died  in  1799,  leaving  a  character  for  enterprise  and  honesty. 

Before  the  revolutionary  war,  the  introduction  of  the  more  easily  managed 
and  laborious  negroes  had  rendered  the  colonists  hostile  to  the  importation  of 
white  convicts  for  slaves.  As  previously  observed,  that  war  closed  America 
against  them,  and  the  plan  was  adopted  by  the  English  government  of 
"  shoveling"  out  their  criminals  on  the  shores  of  the  Antipodes;  and  Botany 
Bay  was  selected  as  the  site  of  the  proposed  penal  colony,  with  a  cool,  care- 
less indifference  whether  the  spot  had  the  natural  means  of  supporting  it 
As  little  judgment  and  humanity  was  exercised  in  selecting  the  colonists  as 
the  colony. 

The  first  fleet  sailed  on  the  13th  of  May,  1787,  and  consisted  of  about  two 
hundred  soldiers  under  Captain  Arthur  Phillips,  the  first  governor,  and  eight 
hundred  and  fifty  convicts,  two  hundred  and  fifty  of  whom  were  not  only 
abandoned  females,  but  many  of  them  aged,  infirm,  and  idiotic.  This  fearful 
disproportion  of  sexes  was  increased  until  there  were  six  men  to  one  woman, 

d  the  results  became  too  horrible  for  record.    After  they  had  embarked,  at 
last  moment,  as  an  afterthought,  a  chaplain  was  sent  on  board.     Thera 


AUSTRALIA,  TEE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  465 

was  no  school-master,  no  superintendent,  no  overseers,  except  marines,  with 
loaded  muskets,  in  case  of  revolt.  No  agriculturist  was  sent  to  teach  the 
highwaymen  and  pickpockets  to  plow,  and  delve,  and  sow.  Even  the  sup- 
ply of  mechanics  required  for  erecting  the  needful  houses  and  stores,  was  left 
a  matter  of  chance,  dependent  on  the  trades  of  the  six  hundred  felons  ;  and, 
as  it  turned  out,  there  were  not  half  a  dozen  carpenters,  only  one  brick-layer, 
and  not  one  mechanic  in  the  whole  settlement  capable  of  erecting  a 
corn-mill. 

On  the  20th  of  January,  1788,  the  convict  fleet  arrived  at  Botany  Bay,  but 
it  being  found  an  unsuitable  place,  they  made  their  first  settlement  at  the 
spot  where  now  stands  the  town  of  Sydney,  some  eighteen  miles  distant  ;  but 
the  name  Botany  Bay  for  a  long  time  designated  the  whole  colony. 

The  first  years  of  the  colony  were  miserable  enough,  and  the  powers  vested 
in  the  governor  such,  that  all  the  labor  was  at  his  disposal,  all  the  land,  all 
the  stores,  and  all  the  places  of  honor  and  profit,  and  virtually  all  the  justice. 

Amazement  and  horror  overcome  us  when  we  look  back  on  the  early  days 
of  New  South  Wales,  as  this  first  settled  province  was  called.  Under  an 
absolute  government,  the  settlers  were  crowded  together  in  a  narrow  space — 
a  promontory  cleared  of  a  dense  forest.  The  soil  was  a  barren  sand — every 
yard  required  for  cultivation  had  to  be  gained  by  removing  enormous  trees 
of  a  hardness  that  tried  the  temper  of  the  best  axes.  On  one  side  was  an 
unknown  shore,  and  a  shipless  sea  ;  on  the  other  an  apparently  limitless 
country,  inhabited  by  savages,  in  which  not  a  step  could  be  taken  without 
danger  of  being  lost ;  a  country  which  produced  no  wild  root  or  food  fit  for 
the  sustenance  of  man.  The  mass  of  the  community  were  slaves — slaves,  too, 
without  the  contented  spirits  of  negroes  or  Russian  serfs,  for  they  had  been 
born  in  a  free  country.  Far  from  all  civilizing,  humanizing  influences,  in 
such  society,  the  finest  natures  became  brutalized  into  tyrants,  while  the 
criminals  under  their  command  dragged  on  a  miserable  existence,  or  rebelled 
with  all  the  doggedness  of  despair. 

More  vessels  continued  to  arrive  with  convicts.  In  1790,  the  third  year  of 
the  colonization,  the  whole  colony  would  have  starved  but  for  the  timely 
arrival  of  a  store  ship.  Shortly  after  four  ships  entered  the  harbor  of  Sydney, 
in  which  the  greater  number  of  the  felons  were  in  a  dying  state.  Many  had 
already  died  from  the  continued  effects  of  fevers,  foul  air,  and  bad  food.  The 
men  had  been  chained  together  in  rows,  and  confined  below  nearly  through- 
out the  voyage,  in  order  to  save  trouble.  On  board  one  of  the  ships  several 
of  the  prisoners  died  in  irons  ;  their  companions  concealed  their  deaths  in 
order  to  share  the  extra  allowance  of  provisions,  and  the  horrible  fact  was 
noi  discovered,  so  slight  was  the  supervision,  until  betrayed  by  the  disgusting 
stench.  At  that  time,  the  more,  and  the  sooner  prisoners  died,  the  more  pro- 
fitable was  the  transaction  to  the  contractor  ;  so  they  died  commonly  like  rot- 
ten sheep.  In  those  days  transportation  to  New  South  Wales  was  almost  as 
terrible  as  death.  There  was  no  hope  of  liberation  ;  the  will  of  a  ruffian 
overseer,  himself  a  convict,  was  law,  and  death  was  the  punishment  of  the 
most  trifling  crime",  and  even  a  reproachful  look  was  sure  to  be  punisbe.b 
with  the  lash. 
30 


466  AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

It  was  not  until  five  years  after  Governor  Phillips's  landing  that  even  a  tem- 
porary church  was  erected,  and  divine  worship  performed. 

The  office  of  the  governor  was  no  sinecure  :  he  had  a  large  body  of  con- 
victs under  his  command  who  would  not  work,  and  who  would  drink,  and 
who  were,  therefore,  dependent  for  subsistence  on  supplies  from  England  and 
India.  By  every  ship  that  left  the  harbor  there  was  an  attempt,  generally 
successful,  on  the  part  of  the  convicts,  to  escape,  and  it  was  no  wonder,  as  the 
whole  population  was  annually  put  on  short  allowance  of  food,  and  very  often 
in  danger  of  actual  starvation. 

At  this  period,  and  for  more  than  twenty  years,  rum  was  the  ordinary  cur- 
rency of  the  colony.  Almost  all  extra  work  was  paid  for  in  spirits,  and, 
among  free  and  bond,  drunkenness  was  universal.  The  tyranny  of  the  pri- 
soner overseers  was  so  great  that  the  best  inclined  convicts  were  goaded  to 
recklessness  and  crime.  Criminal  assaults  on  women  were  so  common  that 
the  poor  unfortunates  were  designated  by  a  title  expressive  of  the  insults  they 
had  received. 

In  those  early  years  New  South  Wales  was  a  complete  hell.  An  idea  of 
the  tyranny  practised  upon  the  miserable  wretches,  whose  crimes  had 
banished  them  from  their  native  land,  is  forcibly  given  in  these  extracts,  from 
the  voluntary  statements  of  some  of  the  early  convicts,  made  in  1845,  to  Mrs. 
Chisholm,  a  philanthropic  lady,  to  whose  exertions  in  finding  employment  for 
the  emigrant  females,  and  in  other  plans  for  the  welfare  of  the  people,  Aus- 
;ralia  is  greatly  indebted. 

The  first  statement  we  quote  is  that  of  Joseph  Smith.  Like  all  the  old  set- 
tlers he  was  honored  with  a  nickname:  Smaskem  was  the  one  given  him,  from 
the  blunt  energy  with  which  he  always  spoke  his  mind,  alike  to  high  and  low. 

Joseph  Smith's  statement.  I  arrived  in  the  colony  fifty-six  years  since, 
[1794]  ;  it  was  Governor  Phillips's  time,  and  I  was  fourteen  years  old  ;  there 
were  only  eight  houses  in  the  colony  then.  I  know  that  myself  and  eighteen 
others  laid  in  a  hollow  tree  for  seventeen  weeks,  and  cooked  out  of  a  kettle 
with  a  wooden  bottom  :  We  used  to  stick  it  in  a  hole  in  the  ground,  and 
make  a  fire  round  it.  I  was  sew^  vears  in  service  (bond),  and  then  started 
working  for  a  living,  wherever  I  could  get  it.  There  was  plenty  of  hardship 
then.  I  have  often  taken  grass  and  pounded  it,  and  made  soup  from  a 
native  dog.  I  would  eat  anything  then.  For  seventeen  weeks  I  had  only 
five  ounces  of  flour  a  day.  We  never  got  a  full  ration  except  a  ship  was  in 
harbor.  The  motto  was  "  kill  them  or  work  them,  their  provision  will  be  in 
store."  Many  a  time  have  I  been  yoked  like  a  bullock  with  twenty  or  thirty 
others  to  drag  along  timber.  About  eight  hundred  died  in  six  months  at  a 
place  called  Toongabbie,  or  Constitution  Hill.  I  knew  a  man  so  weak  that  he 
was  thrown  into  the  grave,  when  he  said,  "  Don't  cover  me  up — I'm  not 
dead — for  God's  sake,  don't  cover  me  up  !"  The  overseer  answered,  "  D — n 
your  eyes,  you'll  die  to-night,  and  we  shall  have  the  trouble  to  come  back 
again  !"  The  man  recovered:  his  name  is  James  Glasshouse,  and  he  is  now 
alive  at  Richmond. 

They  used  to  have  a  large  hole  for  the  dead.  Once  a-day  men  were  sent 
down  to  'ollect  the  corpses  of  prisoners,  and  throw  them  in  without  ceremony 


AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  467 

o»  service.  The  native  dogs  used  to  come  down  at  night,  and  fight  and 
howl  in  packs,  gnawing  the  poor  dead  bodies. 

The  governor  ordered  the  lash  at  the  rate  of  500,  600,  or  800,  and  if  the 
men  could  have  stood  it,  they  would  have  had  more.  I  knew  a  man  hung 
there  for  stealing  a  few  biscuit,  and  another  for  stealing  a  duck-frock.  A 
man  was  condemned — no  time — take  him  to  the  tree  and  hang  him.  The 
overseers  were  allowed  to  flog  men  in  the  fields.  Often  have  men  been  taken 
from  the  gang,  had  fifty  and  sent  back  to  work.  Any  man  would  ha\e  com- 
mitted murder  for  a  month's  provisions  ;  I  would  have  committed  three 
(murders)  for  a  weeks  provisions  !     I  was  chained  seven  weeks  on  my  back, 

for  being  out  getting  greens,  wild  herbs.     The  Rev.  used  to  come  it 

tightly  to  force  some  confession.  Men  were  obliged  to  tell  lies,  to  prevent 
their  bowels  from  being  cut  out  with  the  lash. 

Old (an  overseer)  killed  three  men  in  a  fortnight  at  the  saw,  with 

over  work.     We  used  to  be  taken  in  large  parties  to  raise  a  tree  ;  when  the 

body  of  the  tree  was  raised,  he  (old )  would  call  some  of  the  men 

away — then  more  ;  the  men  were  bent  double — they  could  not  bear  it — they 
fell — the  tree  on  one  or  two,  killed  on  the  spot.  "  Take  him  away  ;  put  him 
in  the  ground  !     There  was  no  more  about  it." 

Mrs.  Smith's  Statement :  This  lady  was  the  wife  of  the  above.  She  was 
blind,  and  acted  as  she  spoke,  and  wept  on  recalling  the  horrors  of  her  early 

life.     u  I  have  seen  Dr. ,"  says  she,  "  take  a  woman  who  was  in  the 

family  way,  with  a  rope  round  her,  and  duck  her  in  the  water  at  Queen's 
wharf.  This  was  a  common  punishment  for  female  prisoners.  The  laws 
were  bad  then.  If  a  gentleman  wanted  a  man's  wife,  he  would  send  the 
husband  to  Norfolk  Island.  I  have  seen  a  man  flogged  for  pulling  six  tur- 
nips instead  of  five.  One  Deprey  was  overseer,  the  biggest  villain  that  ever 
lived — delighted  in  torment.  He  used  to  walk  up  and  down,  and  rub  his 
hands  when  the  blood  ran.  When  he  walked  out  his  flogger  walked  behind 
him.  He  died  a  miserable  death — maggots  eat  him  up — not  a  man  could  be 
found  to  bury  him.  I  have  seen  six  men  executed  for  stealing  twenty-one 
pounds  of  flour.  I  have  seen  a  man  struck  when  at  work,  with  a  handspike, 
and  killed  on  the  spot.  I  have  seen  men  in  tears  around  Gov. > -beg- 
ging for  food.  He  would  mock  them  with,  ■  yes,  yes,  gentlemen  ;  Til  make 
you  comfortable  ;  give  you  a  nightcap,  and  a  pair  of  stockings.'  " 

Henry  Hale's  Statement:  I  arrived  in  the  third  fleet  on  the  16th  of  October 
1791  ;  I  was  sent  to  Toongabbie.  For  nine  months  there  I  was  on  five 
ounces  of  flour  a  day — when  weighed  out,  barely  four,  served  daily.  In 
those  days  we  were  yoked  to  draw  timber,  twenty-five  in  a  g*ing.  The 
sticks  were  six  feet  long  ;  six  men  abreast.  We  held  the  stick  behind  us, 
and  dragged  with  our  hands.  One  man  came  ashore  in  the  Pitt ;  his  name 
was  Dixon  ;  he  was  a  guardsman  ;  he  was  put  to  the  drag ;  it  soon  did  for 
him.  He  began  on  a  Thursday,  and  died  on  a  Saturday,  as  he  was  dragging 
a  load  down  Constitution  Hill.  There  were  1,300  died  there  in  six  months. 
Men  used  to  carry  trees  on  their  shoulders.  How  they  used  to  die  !  The 
men  were  weak — dreadfully  weak — for  wan}  of  food.  A  man  named  Gib- 
raltar, was  hung  for  stealing  a  loaf  out  of  the  governor's  kitchen.     He  got 


468  AUSTKALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

down  the  chimney,  stole  the  loaf,  had  a  trial,  and  was  hung  the  next  day  at 
sunrise.     At  this  time  a  full  ration  was  allowed  the  governor's  dog.     This  was 

Gov. .     I  have  seen  seventy  men  flogged  at  night,  twenty-five  lashes 

each.  On  Sunday  evening  they  used  to  read  the  laws  ;  if  a  man  was  found 
out  of  ",amp,  he  got  twenty-five.  The  women  used  to  be  punished  with  iron 
collars.  In  Governor  King's  time  they  used  to  douse  them  overboard  ;  they 
killed  one."  After  a  lapse  of  years  the  character  of  the  colonists  began  to 
improve  by  the  arrival  of  free  settlers  from  Great  Britain,  to  whom  lands 
were  granted,  and  convicts  to  labor  upon  them  furnished. 

The  emigrants  have  principally  settled  in  three  colonies :  New  Soutb 
Wales,  of  which  Sidney  is  the  capital,  having  as  previously  stated,  been  the 
first  settled  as  a  penal  colony.  Victoria,  which  lies  at  the  south-eastern 
angle  of  the  island,  was  first  settled  in  1835.  Its  capital  is  Melbourne.  This 
is  the  most  flourishing  of  all  the  colonies,  as  within  it  the  richest  gold  de- 
posits have  been  found.  South  Australia,  founded  the  same  year  as  Vic- 
toria, lies  west  of  it,  and  Adelaide  is  its  capital.  In  the  spring  of  1851,  the 
population  of  these  colonies  amounted  to  322,000,  less  than  that  of  the  state 
of  Connecticut.  In  the  spring  of  1853,  owing  to  the  gold  discovery,  the 
inhabitants  had  increased  to  about  two  millions,  among  whom  were  thou- 
sands of  Californians,  with  other  emigrants  from  our  Republic. 

At  Sidney,  the  society  is  divided  into  three  classes,  the  aristocracy  or  ex- 
clusives,  who  maintaining  their  position  very  rigidly,  are  called  "  exclusion- 
ists ;"  the  liberated  convicts  or  "emancipists,"  and  the  convicts.  These 
distinctions  of  caste,  are  rigidly  enforced,  but  in  the  interior  far  less  so. 
Society  here,  and  in  the  other  ports,  is  now,  in  the  main,  like  that  in  Europe. 
The  lowest  grade  of  convicts  are  imprisoned  at  New  South  Wales,  or  trans- 
ported to  Norfolk  Island,  an  exquisitely  beautiful  islet,  several  hundred 
miles  east  of  Sidney.  Most  of  the  public  works  in  the  large  towns,  were  con- 
structed by  convicts,  strongly  guarded  by  the  police  and  soldiery.  The 
emancipists  frequently  amass  considerable  fortunes.  Convicts,  for  several 
years  past,  have  not  been  imported  to  Australia.  They  are  now  principally 
sent  from  England  direct  to  Van  Dieman's  Land,  and  to  Chatham  island,  near 
two  thousand  miles  south-east  of  Australia.  New  South  Wales  is  the  only 
settlement  :n  Australia  formed  by  convicts,  the  others  having  been  settled 
exclusively  oy  voluntary  emigrants.  The  Island  of  Van  Dieman's  Land  may 
be  considered  as  a  part  of  Australia ;  it  lies  about  140  miles  south  of  it,  and 
is  about  the  size  of  the  State  of  South  Carolina. 

The  term  convict,  is  never  used  in  Australia.  On  first  landing,  the  con- 
victs were  called  canaries  ;  in  reference  to  the  color  of  their  clothing  ;  after  a 
due  probation,  they  were  exalted  to  the  name  of  "government  men."  .The 
emancipists  who  set  up  trades,  it  is  said,  maintain  even  a  more  punctilious 
honesty,  than  the  same  class  of  tradesmen  in  England  ;  conscious,  from  the 
delicate  footing  on  which  their  character  stands,  that  the  smallest  slip  would 
be  sufficient  to  overthrow  it,  and  make  them  be  considered  as  having 
thoroughly  relapsed  into  all  their  old  habits.  It  is  an  important  observation, 
that  the  young  men  born  in  the  colony  of  convict  parents,  acquire  generally  a 
character  the  reverse  of  that  set  them  by  their  progenitors.     Their  example 


AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  469 

seems  rather  to  act  upon  them  as  a  warning,  of  the  misery  and  degradation 
which  irregular  conduct  produces.  Those  born  in  Australia,  go  by  the  fanci- 
ful name  of  "the  currency."  The  currency  are  said  to  be  fine  spirited 
youths,  yet  from  some  cause  of  climate  or  country,  they  have  the  same  tall 
form  and  pallid  aspect,  which  present  themselves  in  the  children  of  our  back- 
woods. They  are  much  attached  to  the  land  of  their  birth,  and  have  a  con- 
tempt for  the  mother  country,  which  is  by  no  means  lessened  by  a  visit  to  it. 

The  numerous  runaway  convicts  form  a  dangerous  and  destructive  body, 
called  the  bush-rangers,  who  have  often  disturbed  the  peace  of  the  interior 
districts,  and  rendered  property,  and  even  life  precarious.  They  formerly 
conducted  their  plunder  on  a  great  scale,  and  even  with  forms  of  honor  and 
courtesy,  which  seemed  very  foreign  to  its  nature.  The  rigorous  measures 
of  the  government  have  put  down  the  system.  The  most  efficient  instrument 
for  hunting  the  bush-rangers,  is  the  institution  of  the  black  mounted  police. 
Woe  betide  the  unhappy  bushranger  whose  trail  is  struck  by  one  of  these 
active  and  dangerous  Australian  savages.  His  empty-handed  pursuer  finds 
arms  upon  the  road,  and  smites  his  victim  with  stones.  "  However  superior 
in  bodily  strength,  however  desperate  his  courage,  the  robber  has  no  chance 
against  the  black  scout,  unless  possessed  of  fire-arms.  The  latter  attacks 
him  with  a  running  fire  of  stones,  thrown  with  such  vigor  and  accuracy,  thai 
a  few  minutes  would  suffice  to  cut  to  pieces,  or  disable  the  former.  The 
superior  agility  of  the  savage,  effectually  prevents  close  quarters;  and  as  for  re- 
sisting with  the  same  weapons,  so  expert  is  the  scout  in  dodging,  that  the  poor 
clumsy  white  man  might  as  well  pelt  a  shadow.  An  instance  is  related  of  a 
native  following  for  days,  a  runaway  prisoner  armed  with  a  musket.  Having 
exhausted  the  little  food  he  had  brought  with  him,  the  white  man  was  at  length 
compelled  by  hunger,  to  fire  at  a  bird,  and  ere  he  could  reload,  he  was  felled 
by  a  stone,  followed  by  a  sustained  battery,  which  soon  placed  both  man  and 
musket  in  the  power  of  the  wily  savage." 

It  was  early  discovered  that  much  of  the  land  in  Australia,  was  unsur 
passed  for  pasturing  cattle  and  sheep.  The  escape  of  two  bulls  and  four 
cows  into  "  the  bush,"  during  the  first  year  of  the  settlement,  at  the  time, 
regarded  as  a  great  calamity,  proved  ultimately  an  immense  gain,  and  the 
origin  of  the  immense  herds  of  cattle  which  now  cover  the  plains  of  Austra- 
lia. About  the  same  time,  it  was  ascertained  that  the  hairy  wool  of  a  few 
sheep,  which  had  been  brought  from  India,  became  much  finer  among  the 
rich  pasture  of  the  plains.  A  British  officer,  named  M'Arthur,  from  the 
hint  thus  obtained,  imported  a  few  merinos.  From  these  sprung  these  count- 
less flocks,  which  have  made  this  the  greatest  wool-growing  country  in  the 
world. 

The  introduction  of  flocks  and  herds  effected  a  great  change  in  Australian 
society.  Many  of  the  convicts  having  served  out  their  time,  retrieved  their 
characters,  and  the  free  emigrants  coming  in  rapidly,  at  length  greatly  out- 
numbered the  convicts. 

Persons  of  all  characters,  and  every  variety  of  previous  habits,  have  of 
late  years  emigrated  from  England,  and  planted  themselves  in  Australia,  as 
sheep  farmers,  each  family  settling  in   some  rude  hut,  in  the  center  of  its 


470  AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

11  run,"  or  sheep  walk,  rarely  at  less  than  five  miles  from  another  Thus 
transplanted  all  at  once  from  English  parlor  "life,  perhaps,  from  some  learned 
and  elegant  profession,  into  a  primeval  solitude,  and  left  to  their  own  re- 
sources, they  experienced  a  change  of  life  unknown  in  other  climes.  Young 
men  who  have  figured  in  quadrille  parties  in  their  native  land,  find  occupa- 
tion in  driving  cars  and  drags,  or  milking  cows  ;  while  ladies,  who  once  pre- 
sided over  a  refined  hospitality  in  a  British  city,  are  in  "  the  bush,"  fain  to 
cook  victuals  for  their  husband  and  his  shepherds.  Labor  and  exposure, 
however,  are  here  attended  with  an  excitement  which  prevents  anything  like 
low  spirits,  and  joined  to  the  fine  climate,  tend  to  keep  up  a  tone  of  health 
which  few  in  civilized  life  ever  enjoy.  Then  there  is  no  eye  of  fashionable 
neighbor,  to  look  pityingly  or  quizzingly  on  the  details  of  the  mud-house, 
and  the  life  which  passes  within  it.  Above  all,  the  star  of  hope  is  present, 
instructing  how  to  bear  with  the  present  for  the  sake  of  the  future. 

The  life  of  the  Australian  shepherd  is  thus  described  :  "  He  rises  at  the 
break  of  day,  makes  his  breakfast  of  mutton,  unleavened  bread  baked  in  the 
ashes,  known  as  "  damper,"  and  tea,  made  in  "  bush  fashion,"  by  boiling 
the  Chinese  leaf  in  an  open  kettle  with  sugar  and  milk.  He  now  takes  his 
pipe,  a  blackened  dudheen  redolent  of  fragrant  "  negro-head"  and  "  pig-tail," 
and  drives  his  flock  a-field.  The  flock  feed  walking,  and  it  is  the  shepherd's 
duty  to  keep  with  them,  letting  them  go  where  they  please,  unless  they 
approach  too  near  the  "scrub,"  when  he  must  head  them  off.  By  the  time 
the  sun  has  reached  mid-heaven,  he  turns  them  toward  some  creek  or  water- 
hole,  where,  after  they  have  drank,  they  camp  down  in  a  ring,  with  their 
heads  turned  socially  toward  the  center.  This  is  the  time  when  an  Arcadian 
shepherd  would  tune  his  pipes  ;  his  Australian  brother,  if  of  a  musical  turn, 
solaces  the  hour  with  a  Jews-harp,  or  an  accordion.  These  instruments, 
accordingly,  figure  largely  in  the  list  of  imports,  five  hundred  of  the  latter, 
and  fifty  gross  of  the  former,  being  no  extravagant  venture  by  a  single  ves- 
sel ;  and  a  shepherd  has  been  known  to  walk  a  couple  of  hundred  miles  to 
purchase  one  of  these  solacers  of  his  weary  hours.  As  evening  approaches, 
he  drives  his  flock  homeward,  shuts  them  in  the  fold,  and  delivers  them  to 
the  charge  of  the  hut-keeper.  He  then  makes  his  supper  of  the  unvarying 
mutton,  and  damper,  and  tea,  and  his  day's  work  is  done.  If  the  night  is 
clear,  as  it  usually  is  in  Australia,  the  sheep  need  no  watching  till  midnight, 
at  which  hour  the  watch  takes  his  post  near  the  fold.  If  the  night  is  stormy 
it  invites  the  attacks  of  the  dingo,  or  native  dog,  and  the  watch  must  walk 
about  his  woolly  charge.  The  wages  of  the  shepherd,  previous  to  the  disco- 
very of  gold,  were  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  dollars  a  year,  with  abundant 
rations  of  meat,  flour,  tea  and  sugar  ;  what  further  luxuries  he  wishes,  he  pro- 
vides for  himself.  If  a  man  were  an  oyster,  no  pleasanter  life  could  be  asked. 
For  months  at  a  time  he  may  not  see  a  single  human  face  by  daylight ;  and 
by  firelight  only  those  of  the  companions  of  his  hut.  Even  the  busy  times  ot 
shearing  and  washing  do  not  disturb  the  monotony  of  his  life  ;  for  these  more 
active  operations  are  usually  performed  by  itinerant  professors,  who  travel 
from  station  to  station,  busying  themselves  during  the  remainder  of  the  year 
in  other  occupations.     A  strike  among  the  tailors  in  London,  some  years 


AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  471 

since,  and  the  consequent  emigration  of  many  of  the  craft,  furnished  Australia 
with  a  number  of  amateur  shearers,  who  wielded  the  blades  as  deftly  upon 
the  fleece  as  they  had  been  wont  to  do  upon  the  web. 

For  the  more  stirring  and  adventurous  spirits  among  the  colonists,  the  care 
of  cattle  affords  a  more  congenial  occupation.  The  Australian  "stockman" 
is  a  sort  of  a  Europeanized  Tartar.  He  lives  on  horseback,  and  scarcely 
enters  a  hut,  except  to  sleep.  His  food  is  beef  and  "  damper  ;"  his  pride  is 
his  horse  ;  he  scorns  those  who  plow  and  sow,  and  above  all  things,  despises 
a  "  crawling  shepherd."  In  his  "  run"  the  stockman  is  a  king  ;  his  cattle 
are  his  subjects  ;  his  saddle  is  his  throne  ;  his  scepter  is  the  stock-whip.  This 
is  a  thong  of  leather  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  long,  weighing  a  couple  of 
pounds,  thick  at  the  "belly,"  and  tapering  to  the  end,  where  it  is  finished 
off  by  silken  cracker,  and  attached  to  a  handle  not  more  than  eighteen  inches, 
long.  Bearing  this  official  scepter,  the  "  stockman,  from  his  saddle  throne, 
keeps  watch  over  his  pasture-ground.  Woe  to  the  unlucky  beast  who, 
attempts  to  stray  beyond  the  limits  ;  the  stockman  is  upon  him  at  once,  with 
his  whip,  each  blow  of  which,  from  a  practiced  hand,  cuts  through  hide  and 
flesh  to  the  very  bone.  Dexterity  in  the  use  of  this  weapon  can  be  acquired 
only  by  long  practice ;  and  the  young  stockman  expectant  devotes  all  his  lei- 
sure to  its  acquirement,  with  the  grave  devotion  and  persistence  of  a  juvenile 
practitioner  on  the  violin  or  French  horn  ;  and  makes  quite  as  much  noise  in 
attaining  a  respectable  proficiency.  At  noon,  the  herds  are  assembled  at  the. 
"  camping-ground,"  close  by  a  watercourse,  if  possible,  where  they  lie 
chewing  the  cud.  It  takes  a  year  or  two  to  teach  a  new  herd  to  betake 
themselves  to  the  spot  at  the  proper  hour.  The  stockman  trains  them  to  this, 
by  riding  about,  and  flogging  every  beast  found  straying  at  camp  hours.  In 
the  course  of  time  the  whole  herd  get  so  trained,  that,  at  the  cracking  of  the 
whip,  which  rings  like  a  musket-shot,  they  gallop  spontaneously  to  camp. 
The  life  of  the  stockman  has  at  times  the  excitement  of  a  bull-fight.  Once  a 
year  the  cattle  are  mustered  for  inspection  and  branding,  and  a  maddened 
bull  not  unfrequently  breaks  away  from  the  yard,  and  heads  back  for  the 
bush  ;  a  stockman  gallops  after  him,  and  cuts  his  flanks  with  the  terrible 
whip  ;  the  beast  turns  when  his  pursuer  is  close  beside  him,  and  unless  both 
horse  and  rider  are  wary,  the  steed  is  impaled  on  the  horns  of  the  infuriated 
bull.  But,  sooner  or  later,  the  bullock  is  subdued,  and  makes  his  way  back 
to  the  yard,  his  hide  covered  with  mingled  blood  and  foam,  his  eyes  glaring, 
and  tongue  protruding,  with  agony  and  fear. 

The  bullock-driver  is  a  sort  of  necessary  mediator  between  the  city  and  the 
pastoral  regions.  He  conducts  the  enormous  carts,  with  their  loads  of  wool, 
to  market,  and  brings  back  the  annual  returns  of  stores,  and  articles  of  luxury 
and  necessity.  His  slow  journey  sometimes  occupies  two  or  three  months,  up 
the  steep  mountain  side,  over  apparently  impracticable  roads,  through  heat 
and  dust,  rain  and  snow.  During  the  whole  time  he  does  not  probably  once 
enter  a  human  dwelling,  sleeping  in  his  vehicle,  while  his  dog  keeps  charge; 
01  er  his  bullocks,  turned  out  to  gather  their  food.  The  setting  out  and  return 
o*  the  dray  are  the  great  annual  events  in  the  lives  of  the  settlejs  in  the  Bush,, 


472  AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

for  they  are  almost  the  sole  links  which  bind  the  solitary  inhabitants  to  the 
great  world  beyond." 

It  is  impossible  to  discover  from  his  attire  the  previous  condition  of  the 
Australian  settler.  He  may  have  been  a  London  exquisite,  and  have  prided 
himself  in  the  polish  of  his  manners  as  well  as  the  polish  of  his  boots,  brilliant 
in  unequaled  Day  and  Martin,  and  in  nicely  fitting  garments,  cut  by  the 
immortal  Stultz.  In  Australia,  his  pride,  like  that  of  the  Californian  gold- 
digger,  takes  an  Antipodean  direction.  It  shows  itself  in  a  face,  enveloped, 
bear-like,  in  a  mass  of  hair,  in  a  slouched  hat,  monkey-jacket,  and  coarse 
trowsers,  tucked  in  boots  of  bullock's  hide — the  whole  set  off  by  manners  in 
keeping  with,  and  as  boorish  as  his  attire. 

Every  settler,  when  riding  through  the  bush,  carries  either  a  kangaroo  rug, 
or  a  blanket  fastened  before  him  on  his  horse,  so  that  wherever  he  goes,  he 
is  provided  with  his  bed ;  and  as  it  is  not  an  uncommon  occurrence  for  one  to 
lose  himself  in  the  bush,  and  be  obliged  to  sleep  at  the  root  of  a  tree,  his  rug 
or  blanket  comes  in  good  service.  On  rising  in  the  morning  he  may  find 
himself  covered  with  frost ;  but  no  harm  will  arise,  as  none  in  this  climate 
ever  seem  to  take  cold  from  sleeping  out  at  night. 

Evidence  of  gold  in  Australia  has  long  been  given.  Twenty-five  years 
ago  a  convict  found  a  "  nugget"  of  gold,  near  where  it  has  since  been  dis- 
covered. His  story  was  disbelieved,  and  he  was  flogged  for  a  supposed 
robbery.  Occasionally  gold  was  offered  for  sale  to  the  jewelers  of  Sidney. 
Scientific  men,  from  the  geological  character  of  the  country,  have  an- 
nounced that  it  must  be  a  gold  producing  region.  In  1848,  a  Mr.  Smith 
found  a  piece  of  gold  imbedded  in  a  quartz  rock,  and  offered  to  disclose  the 
spot,  if  government  would  give  a  reward  of  £800.  The  governor  suspect- 
ing it  to  be  of  California  importation,  refused  the  offer,  but  promised  Mr. 
Smith  a  liberal  reward  if  the  disclosure  proved  valuable ;  but  he  declined  this 
promise  ;  it  was  too  vague  for  his  taste.  Another  individual,  a  Mr.  Edward 
Hargreaves,  who  had  been  attracted  from  Sidney  to  the  gold  fields  of  Cali- 
fornia, on  his  return  set  about  gold  hunting  in  Australia,  and  in  April,  1851, 
communicated  to  the  government,  that  as  the  result  of  two  months'  search, 
he  had  discovered  valuable  deposits  of  gold,  which  he  would  reveal  if  com- 
pensated. He  received  a  reply  similar  to  that  of  Mr.  Smith,  and  possessing 
more  faith  than  that  gentleman,  he  accepted  the  proposition,  and  first  took 
the  government  geologist  to  Summerhill  Creek,  near  the  town  of  Bathurst, 
on  the  inland  side  of  the  mountains,  150  miles  west  of  Sidney,  the  identical 
district  where  an  old  convict,  years  before,  had  professed  to  have  discovered 
his  nuggets. 

A  month  later,  the  news  began  to  spread,  and  hundreds  flocked  to  the 
place,  which  they  named  Ophir.  A  few  weeks  later  these  discoveries  in 
New  South  Wales,  were  surpassed  by  the  still  greater  ones  made  in  the  ad- 
joining colony  of  Victoria,  at  Ballarat,  fifty  miles  north  of  Melbourne.  And 
these  were  in  turn  totally  eclipsed  by  the  more  astounding  revelations  of  Mt. 
Alexander,  where  gold  was  found  in  quantities,  compared  to  which,  the 
richest  "  diggin's"  of  California  shrink  to  very  moderate  dimensions.     At 


AUSTRALIA,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  473 

with  the  gold  discoveries  in  California,  these  made  the  whole  population  half 
crazy.  The  sailor  deserted  his  ship — the  mechanic  threw  down  his  tools — 
the  carman  left  his  team — the  merchant  his  shop,  and  the  whole  population 
like  one  great  rushing  wave,  moved  onward  to  the  mines,  impelled  by  the  all 
devouring  thirst  for  gold. 


RUINED    CITIES 


or 


CENTRAL    AMERICA 


BUIN8  OF  LABPHAK  IN  YUCATAN. 


Civilization  of  the  Ancient  Mexicans — Recent  discoveries  of  the  Ruined  Cities — ExpoditiCM 
of  Del  Rio  and  Du  Paix— Labphak — the  Traveler  Stephens — Description  of  the  Ruins  of 
Copan,  Palenque,  Uxmal,  Chichen  and  Kabah — Artificial  Fountains — Print  of  the  Red 
Hand— Speculations  concerning  the  Origin  of  the  Builders  of  these  Cities—  Evidences  of  an 
Ancient  Civilization  in  various  Parts  of  the  American  Continent. 

There  is  more  of  melancholy  in  the  interest  attached  to  an  inquiry  into  the 
vestiges  of  the  past  throughout  America,  than  in  that  connected  with  similar 
researches  throughout  the  civilized  portions  of  the  Old  World.  In  the  latter 
we  start  from  a  highly-developed  state  of  civilization,  to  seek  for  the  slender 
source  whence  the  mighty  stream  has  sprung;  and  when  we  have  found  this,  we 
turn  round  with  a  feeling  of  delight  and  wonder  to  mark  the  blessings  which 
it  has  spread  as  it  extended.  Even  in  cases  where  a  great  nation  and  a 
mighty  civilization  have  ceased  to  occupy  a  place  in  the  world,  we  have 
nevertheless  the  assurance  that  this  civilization  laid  the  germ  of  another, 
which  succeeded  it,  and  that  though  absorbed  and  superseded,  it  has  not  been 
fruitless,  or  utterly  lost.  In  America  the  case  is  different :  the  civilization 
which  now  nourishes  in  many  portions  of  this  extensive  continent  is  in  no 
manner  connected  with  its  past  history  or  its  ancient  inhabitants  ;  it  has,  on 
the  contrary,  proved  the  most  inveterate    foe   of  both,  with    contemptuous 

475 


476  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

superiority  leaving  the  first  utterly  unheeded,  while  with  relentless  cupidity 
it  has  persecuted  the  latter  almost  to  extermination ;  and  it  is  not  until  within 
a  comparatively  very  recent  period  that  the  intruders  on  the  soil  of  the  New 
World,  have  stopped  to  consider  whether  the  history  of  the  despised  and 
persecuted  Red  man  might  not  be  worthy  of  some  attention.  That  this  is  the 
case  is  now  generally  admitted  ;  and  the  conclusions  toward  which  almost  all 
the  inquiries  into  the  early  history  and  past  civilization  of  the  red  race  of 
America  seem  to  tend,  are  indeed,  of  the  utmost  interest,  as  they  lead  to  a 
strong  presumption  that  the  nations  and  tribes  inhabiting  these  regions  at  the 
period  of  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  were  not  people  emerging  from  a  state 
of  barbarism,  and  slowly  working  their  way  up  in  the  social  scale,  but  that, 
on  the  contrary,  they  were  descendants  of  a  more  civilized  race,  sinking 
gradually  from  the  high  position  they  had  once  maintained,  while  some  of  them, 
having  outstepped  the  others  in  their  downward  career,  had  already  sunk  into 
the  condition  of  savages.  These  opinions  have  indeed  but  slowly  gained 
ground,  and  are  not  as  yet  by  any  means  generally  entertained.  So  accus- 
tomed have  historians  hitherto  been  to  see  a  movement  from  barbarism 
upward,  that  when  the  European  foot  first  stumbled  over  the  vestiges  of  an 
ancient  and  extinct  civilization  in  the  wilds  of  America,  speculative  intellects 
at  once  set  to  work  to  find  out  what  could  have  been  the  race  that  preceded 
the  Red  men  in  the  occupation  of  these  countries,  and  which  had  probably 
been  exterminated  by  them. 

When  the  Spaniards,  in  1517 — after  twenty-five  years'  occupation  of  the 
West  India  islands,  their  first  discoveries  in  the  New  World — landed  upon 
the  coasts  of  Central  America,  they  were  struck  with  amazement  at  the  con- 
trast between  the  state  of  the  countries  which  now  opened  to  their  view,  and 
those  with  which  they  had  previously  become  acquainted  in  these  regions. 
Instead  of  naked  and  timid  savages,  gathered  together  in  tribes  independent 
of,  and  often  hostile  to,  each  other,  struggling  for  subsistence  amid  the 
difficulties  of  uncultivated  nature,  and  unacquainted  with  the  simplest  arts  of 
civilized  life,  they  here  beheld  populous  nations  living  under  the  dominion  of 
powerful  monarchs,  subject  to  the  rule  of  systematic  governments  and 
established  laws,  skilled  in  arts  and  manufactures,  enjoying  all  the  benefits 
of  organized  society,  and  dwelling  in  cities  which  seemed  to  the  dazzled  eyes 
Df  the  new-comers,  to  rival  in  magnificence  those  of  the  Old  World. 

The  city  of  Mexico,  situated  in  an  extensive  plain,  and  built  partly  on  the 
banks  of  a  large  lake,  and  partly  on  several  small  islands  on  its  bosom,  was, 
at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  invasion,  approached  by  artificial  roads  thirty  feet 
in  width,  and  extending  from  two  to  three  miles  in  length.  The  temples 
dedicated  to  the  religious  worship  of  the  people,  the  palaces  of  the  monarch, 
and  the  dwellings  of  persons  of  distinction,  were,  according  to  the  description 
of  the  invaders,  of  gigantic  dimensions  and  magnificent  structure,  while  the 
habitations  of  the  lower  orders  were  of  the  humblest  character,  being  merely 
huts  resembling  those  of  the  Indians  of  the  rudest  tribes.  The  building 
assigned  to  Cortez  and  his  companions  when  they  visited  as  friends  the 
monarch  whose  downfall  they  were  plotting,  was  a  house  built  by  the  father 
of  Montezuma,  spacious  enough  to  accommodate  all  the  Spaniards  and  theii 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  477 

Indian  allies.  It  consisted,  according  to  the  description  of  the  former,  of 
apartments  ranged  around  extensive  courtyards,  the  whole  being  inclosed  by 
a  stone  wall  with  towers,  which  served  for  defense  as  well  as  ornament.  The 
most  striking  architectural  features  in  the  city  of  Mexico  were  the  temples; 
and  foremost  among  these,  was  the  great  Teocalli — that  is,  House  of  God — 
situated  in  the  principal  square,  and  one  of  the  first  destroyed  by  the 
Spaniards  when  they  became  masters  of  the  city.  This  temple,  which  was 
dedicated  to  Tezcatlopica,  the  god  first  in  rank  after  Teoth,  the  Supreme 
Being,  and  to  Meritli,  the  god  of  war,  consisted  of  a  truncated  pyramid 
formed  by  five  terraces,  ascended  by  broad  flights  of  steps.  The  sides  of 
the  pyramid  faced  the  four  cardinal  points  ;  its  base  was  318  feet  long,  and 
its  perpendicular  height  121  feet.  It  was  stated  by  the  Mexicans  themselves, 
to  have  been  built  on  the  model  of  great  pyramids  of  a  similar  nature,  which 
were  spread  over  the  face  of  the  country,  and  which  the  traditions  of  the 
people  ascribed  to  the  Toltecs,  the  nation  from  whom  they  had  received  their 
civilization.  On  the  truncated  top  of  the  pyramid  were  placed  the  sacrificial 
stone  and  the  statues  of  the  gods,  among  which  those  of  the  sun  and  moon 
were  of  colossal  dimensions,  and  covered  with  plates  of  gold.  Around  the 
main  building  was  a  wall  of  hewn  stone,  ornamented  with  knots  of  serpents 
in  bas-relief.  Within  the  precincts  of  the  wall,  or  immediately  adjoining  it, 
were  the  dwellings  of  the  priests.  Edifices  of  a  similar  character  were  repre- 
sented as  existing  throughout  Mexico  and  the  adjoining  countries ;  and  the 
capital  itself,  was  said  to  contain  no  less  than  eight  temples  almost  equal  in 
size  to  that  just  described,  beside  two  thousand  of  inferior  dimensions. 

On  nearer  inquiry,  however,  into  the  state  of  that  civilization  which  was  at 
first  so,  highly  lauded  by  the  Spaniards,  as  hardly  inferior  to  that  of  Europe, 
it  was  ascertained  that  neither  the  Mexicans  nor  the  nations  bordering  upon 
their  empire,  and  who  in  a  great  measure  participated  in  their  civilization, 
were  acquainted  with  the  use  of  iron,  without  which,  it  has  been  observed,  no 
nation  can  advance  far  in  the  arts  of  civilized  life  ;  that  they  had  not  any 
tame  animals  trained  to  assist  man  in  his  labors ;  that  they  were  unacquainted 
with  the  art  of  writing,  and  even  with  the  use  of  hieroglyphics — having  no 
other  means  of  conveying  to  succeeding  ages  an  account  of  the  past  than  by 
the  imperfect  and  tedious  process  of  picture-painting,  which,  however,  they 
had  carried  to  a  considerable  degree  of  perfection  ;  that  communication 
between  the  different  provinces  of  the  empire  was  rendered  almost  impossible 
by  the  absence  of  roads  and  the  density  of  the  forests,  which  in  a  great 
measure  covered  the  face  of  the  country ;  that  commercial  intercourse  had 
attained  no  higher  degree  of  development  than  was  consistent  with  a  system 
of  barter — the  only  approach  to  a  standard  of  value  being  the  establishment 
of  the  beans  of  the  cocoa  as  an  instrument  of  commercial  interchange, 
chocolate  being  a  beverage  in  universal  use  throughout  the  country;  and  that 
the  religion  of  the  Mexicans,  though  formed  into  a  regular  system,  bore  the 
character  of  a  gloomy  and  atrocious  superstition,  their  divinities — worshiped 
under  the  form  of  stone  idols  of  hideous  aspect — being  represented  as  san- 
guinary and  revengeful  beings,  delighting  in  the  sufferings  of  the  human 
victims  sacrificed  on  their  altars,  and  having  their  temples  decorated  with  the 


478  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

effigies  of  serpents,  tigers,  crocodiles,  and  other  ferocious  animals.  These 
facts,  together  with  the  still  more  significant  circumstance,  that  they  weit 
surrounded  by  tribes,  who,  in  proportion  to  their  distance  from  this  center  of 
civilization,  approached  nearer  and  nearer  to  a  state  of  savage  brutality, 
seemed  sufficient  to  establish  the  opinion  that  the  Mexican  nation  was  still  in 
its  infancy,  and  separated  by  only  a  few  centuries  from  the  condition  in  which 
its  ruder  neighbors  were  still  merged.  The  traditions  of  the  Mexicans,  as 
they  were  understood,  did  not  indeed  assign  to  their  empire  any  great 
antiquity ;  Montezuma,  the  monarch  who  ruled  over  them  at  the  period  of 
the  arrival  of  Cortez,  being,  according  to  their  own  accounts,  only  the  ninth 
ruler  since  their  establishment  in  those  territories.  But  it  will  be  remembered 
that  they  assigned  their  civilization  to  an  anterior  race ;  this  was,  however, 
considered  a  fond  conceit  common  to  every  people  of  recent  date. 

Whatever  may  in  reality  have  been  the  state  of  civilization  in  the  newly- 
discovered  world,  its  want  of  vigor  was  soon  proved  by  its  utter  subjugation 
to  that  of  the  old.  Fifty  years  after  the  first  landing  of  the  Spaniards  on  the 
coast  of  Yucatan,  their  authority  was  established  over  almost  the  whole  of 
the  vast  territory  of  Central  America ;  and  a  few  years  later,  the  number  of 
the  original  inhabitants  of  these  countries  was  so  much  reduced,  that  the 
accounts  of  their  former  populousness  seemed  fabulous.  Their  monarchs  and 
various  rulers  were  deposed,  and  put  to  death,  their  religion  was  proscribed 
and  persecuted,  their  temples  and  palaces  were  destroyed,  their  cities  razed 
to  the  ground,  their  idols  broken  into  fragments,  or  when  this  could  not  be 
effected,  buried  in  the  earth,  and  the  dwindled  remains  of  their  population 
reduced  to  a  miserable  state  of  servitude.  ,Even  now — when  republican  insti- 
tutions have  been  established  throughout  the  countries  which  once  acknow- 
ledged the  sway  of  Spain,  and  when  the  inhabitants  of  all  colors  and  all 
races  are  recognized  as  equal  before  the  law — the  poor  Indian,  in  whom  every 
trace  of  the  spirit  of  a  free  man  has  been  obliterated,  bends  meekly  before 
the  superior  race,  kisses  the  hand  which  inflicts  the  punishment  of  the  lash, 
and  repeats  the  words  which  have  become  proverbial  among  the  Spanish 
Americans — '  The  Indians  do  not  hear  except  through  their  backs.' 

Beyond  the  boundaries  of  the  Mexican  and  Peruvian  empires,  and  the 
countries  immediately  adjoining  them,  the  inhabitants  of  the  American  con- 
tinent were  divided  into  small  tribes,  independent  of  each  other,  destitute  of 
industry  and  arts,  forming  no  regularly-organized  societies,  and  living  alto- 
gether in  a  state  so  rude  as  to  come  under  the  denomination  of  savages.  The 
physical  features  of  the  various  tribes  distributed  over  that  vast  continent 
were,  however,  so  uniform,  that  it  at  once  became  evident  that  although  in 
different  stages  of  civilization,  they  all  belonged  to  the  same  race,  and  were 
merely  subject  to  such  modifications  as  would  necessarily  arise  from  the 
differences  in  the  natural  features  of  the  districts  which  they  inhabited,  and 
the  state  of  the  society  to  which  they  belonged.  Thus  in  the  more  northerly 
regions  of  the  North  American  continent,  where  the  English  made  their  first 
settlements,  the  Indians  were  in  a  much  ruder  state  than  in  Central  America, 
but  possessed  a  more  warlike  spirit  and  greater  physical  vigor ;  and  the 
struggle  between  them  and  the  invaders  of  their  country  was  consequently  of 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  479 

longer  duration,  and  of  a  somewhat  different  character.  Here  the  Red  man 
never  submitted,  and  the  European  settlers  could  not  boast  of  having  con- 
quered the  land  until  they  had  utterly  expelled  or  exterminated  the  tribes  to 
whom  it  belonged  by  right  of  prior  occupation.  As  to  the  country  itself,  with 
the  exception  of  the  territories  occupied  by  the  Mexicans  and  Peruvians,  and 
to  a  certain  degree  those  immediately  adjoining  them,  it  was  untouched  by 
the  hand  of  industry,  and  presented  throughout  one  great  uncultivated  wilder- 
ness, save  where  a  small  patch  of  Indian  corn  proved  the  neighborhood  of 
a  native  encampment.  It  was  covered  with  immense  forests,  which,  par- 
ticularly in  the  southern,  and  naturally  most  fertile  regions,  were  rendered 
almost  impervious  by  the  rank  luxuriance  of  vegetation.  The  vast  plains 
were  overflowed  by  the  constant  inundations  of  the  rivers,  and  were  converted 
into  unwholesome  and  impenetrable  marshes.  In  a  word,  nature  presented 
throughout  a  picture  of  wild  desolation,  though  abounding  in  all  the  features 
most  favorable  to  the  development  of  civilization  and  prosperity.  Though 
we  may  dwell  with  pleasure  on  the  idea  of  some  of  the  richest  and  most 
fertile  regions  of  the  habitable  globe  having  been  redeemed  from  such  a  state 
to  one  of  high  cultivation,  and  of  millions  of  civilized  men  reveling  in  com- 
fort and  luxury  in  countries  where  nature,  left  to  herself,  barely  furnished 
food  for  a  few  straggling  savages,  yet  it  is  melancholy  to  reflect  that  a  Christ- 
ian and  civilized  race  has  superseded  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  these  lands, 
without  having  in  any  instance  succeeded  in  extending  to  the  latter  the  ad- 
vantages to  which  they  owe  their  own  superiority;  that  while  expending  on 
the  soil  the  benefit  of  cultivation,  and  causing  it  to  yield  rich  harvests  in 
return  for  their  labor,  they,  the  followers  of  a  religion  which  teaches  man  to 
see  in  his  fellow-man,  of  whatever  race  or  color,  a  brother,  should  not  only 
have  left  the  aborigines  in  the  same  degraded  state  in  which  they  found  them, 
but  that  they  should  have  disseminated  their  vices  where  they  knew  not  how 
to  implant  their  virtues.  If  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  can  plead  in  their  excuse 
the  wild  and  intractable  character  of  the  savages  with  whom  they  had  to  deal, 
the  same  plea  will  not  extend  to  the  Spaniards,  whose  Indian  subjects  were 
docile  and  submissive  to  a  fault.  The  incapacity  of  the  Indians  for  improve- 
ment has,  however,  been  observed  and  dwelt  upon  by  all  travelers  ;  and  this 
may  perhaps  account  for  so  little  interest  having  for  a  long  while  been  taken 
in  their  former  civilization,  and  so  few  endeavors  made,  until  within  the  last 
century,  to  trace  it  to  its  origin.  Indeed  so  little  credence  was  generally 
attached  to  any  high  state  of  civilization  having  existed  in  these  regions  pre- 
vious to  the  Spanish  conquest,  that  when  the  ancient  remains  of  which  we 
are  about  to  treat  were  first  brought  to  light  by  the  industry  of  adventurous 
travelers,  all  minds  set  to  work  to  discover  who  could  have  been  the  authors 
of  these  remarkable  works,  few  being  inclined  to  ascribe  them  to  the  ancestors 
of  the  despised  race  which  had  been  so  easily  subjugated  by  small  bands  of 
Spanish  adventurers.  So  little,  indeed,  was  the  existence  of  these  monuments 
known,  that  the  able,  philosophic,  and  conscientious  Scottish  historian,  Dr.  Ro- 
bertson, in  his  'History  of  America, 'published  1777,  affirmed,  on  the  authority  of 
persons  long  resident  in  those  countries,  that  there  was  not  throughout  Spanish 
America  '  a  single  monument  or  vestige  of  any  building  more  ancient  than 


480  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

the  Conquest ;'  and  his  general  estimation  of  the  state  of  the  inhabitants  of 
those  countries,  at  that  period,  led  him  to  the  conclusion  that  the  progenitors 
of  the  American  race  must  have  been  in  a  very  barbarous  state  when  they 
left  the  cradle  of  mankind  to  populate  these  unknown  regions. 

In  one  of  his  reports  to  Charles  V,  Cortez  describes  his  manner  of  pro- 
ceeding in  Mexico  as  follows  : — '  I  formed  the  design  of  demolishing  on  all 
«ides  all  the  houses  in  proportion  as  we  became  masters  of  the  streets,  so 
that  we  should  not  advance  a  foot  without  having  destroyed  and  cleared 
out  whatever  was  behind  us.'  These  words  characterize  the  policy  of  the 
Spaniards  throughout  the  whole  of  New  Spain — a  policy  followed  up  during 
two  centuries,  and  resulting  in  the  almost  total  obliteration  from  the  face 
of  the  country  of  every  trace  of  the  state  of  things  which  preceded  their 
arrival.  The  few  ruins  that  were  left  to  tell  the  tale  of  desolation,  and  the 
gigantic  pyramidal  structures — which  the  untiring  industry  of  the  conquered 
race  had  reared,  and  which  even  the  insatiable  hatred  of  their  conquerors 
was  unable  to  destroy — remained  utterly  unheeded,  failing  to  awaken  the 
interest  of  the  natives  of  Spanish  descent,  and  lying  beyond  the  reach  of 
European  curiosity  through  the  jealous  policy  of  Spain,  which  placed  innu- 
merable impediments  in  the  way  of  explorers.  However,  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  present  century  the"illustrious  Humboldt,  braving  all  difficulties 
in  pursuance  of  those  scientific  objects  to  which  he  devoted  his  life,  visited 
New  Spain  ;  and  through  his  reports  Europe  learned,  for  the  first  time,  from 
an  authority  which  admitted  of  no  doubt,  the  existence  of  ruins  fully  con- 
firming the  statements  of  the  early  Spanish  writers  relative  to  the  cities  and 
temples  of  Mexico.  Since  then,  tourists  innumerable,  scientific  and  unscien- 
tific, have  visited  and  explored  the  ruins  of  Mexico  ;  but  the  territory  which 
stretches  from  Mexico  to  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  including  the  peninsula  of 
Yucatan,  remained  for  a  long  time  comparatively  unknown.  Yet  within  the 
impenetrable  forests  of  those  very  partially-cultivated  states  are  concealed 
the  most  remarkable  remains  of  ancient  cities,  many  of  whose  buildings 
and  sculptures  are  in  a  state  of  such  extraordinary  preservation,  as  to  render 
it  difficult  to  believe  that  they  have  been  abandoned  for  centuries. 

In  the  year  1750,  some  Spaniards  traveling  in  the  interior  of  Mexico  are 
said  to  have  penetrated  into  the  province  of  Chiapas,  and  to  have  discovered 
fchere,  either  by  chance  or  through  means  of  information  received  from  the 
Indians,  the  remains  of  a  city  consisting  of  ancient  stone  buildings,  and 
extending,  according  to  their  account,  over  an  area  of  from  eighteen  to 
twenty-four  miles.  So  utterly  unknown  had  the  city  been  until  then,  that 
no  tradition  of  the  country  gives  any  clue  even  to  its  name.  Among  the  few 
Indians  who  were  acquainted  with  the  existence  of  the  ruins,  they  were 
known  as  Las  Casas  de  Piedras — that  is,  The  Stone  Houses — and  the  travel- 
era  who  have  since  explored  them  have  bestowed  upon  them  the  appellation 
of  Palenque,  from  the  name  of  the  little  village  in  the  vicinity  of  which  they 
are  situated.  The  news  of  this  discovery,  though  it  reached  the  ears  of  the 
Spanish  authorities,  foiled  to  awaken  their  interest.  Thirty  years  afterward, 
however,  the  king  of  Spain  sent  out  an  exploring  commission  under  the 
direction  of  Captain  Del  Rio,  and  subsequently  another  under  Captain  Dm 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  481 

Paix ;  but  by  adverse  circumstances  the  reports  of  both  these  gentlemen 
were  withheld  from  publication  for  many  years,  and  it  is  thus  only  within 
the  last  twenty-five  years  that  any  authentic  accounts  of  these  interesting 
remains  of  by-gone  civilization  have  become  known  to  the  world  in  general. 
Since  the  publication  of  the  report  of  the  two  above-named  gentlemen,  the 
ruins  have  been  visited  and  carefully  explored  by  several  enterprising 
travelers.  The  last  among  these,  as  far  as  we  are  aware,  was  Mr.  Stephens, 
the  well-known  American  writer  and  traveler,  who  published  in  1839  and 
in  1842  the  result  of  his  researches,  illustrated  with  numerous  engravings. 

In  the  course  of  his  journey  through  the  several  provinces  of  Honduras, 
Guatemala,  Chiapas,  Tabasco,  and  the  peninsula  of  Yucatan,  Mr.  Stephens 
met  with  no  less  than  forty-four  ruined  cities,  the  greater  number  situated 
within  short  distances  of  each  other  in  Yucatan,  but  buried  in  the  depths  of 
forests,  without  any  visible  means  of  communication,  and  in  many  cases 
unknown  to  the  populations  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  whose  doors  they 
are.  The  term  city,  which  it  is  customary  to  apply  to  these  interesting 
remains,  conjures  up  in  the  mind  a  picture  very  different  from  that  which  in 
reality  they  present ;  for  nowhere  among  these  ruins  have  there  been  found 
any  remains  of  the  dwelling-places  of  those  classes  which  in  all  countries  and 
in  all  times  must  form  the  bulk  of  the  population  of  a  city.  The  buildings 
that  remain  are  all  of  a  stately  character,  seemingly  intended  for  the  abode 
of  princes,  or  devoted  to  the  religious  worship  of  a  people  who  decorated 
with  fond  reverence  the  temples  of  their  gods.  No  general  terms  will,  how- 
ever, suffice  to  give  a  clear  conception  of  that  which  is  so  different  from  all 
with  which  we  are  familiar  in  the  Old  World  ;  and  we  will  therefore  survey 
in  detail  such  of  the  cities  and  their  structures  as  present  certain  features 
common  to  all. 

Though  varying  in  many  of  their  minor  features,  these  ancient  remains 
bear,  nevertheless,  a  strong  resemblance  to  each  other — the  most  general 
characteristic  being  the  truncated  pyramids  already  alluded  to.  These, 
rising  in  terraces  from  the  level  plain,  as  shown  in  the  elevation  of  the  noble 
ruins  of  Labphak  in  Yucatan,  are  usually  crowned  with  edifices  of  vast 
extent,  and  richly  decorated  with  sculpture.  It  is  a  class  of  objects  the  more 
interesting,  as  they  at  once  connect  the  ruined  cities  of  Central  America  with 
the  aboriginal  remains  throughout  the  whole  North  American  continent,  and 
likewise  show  a  kindred  relation  between  the  builders  of  these  cities  and  the 
inhabitants  of  Mexico  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest. 

The  ruined  city  of  Copan  is  situated  in  the  province  of  Honduras,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river  Copan,  an  unnavigable  stream  which  empties  itself  into 
the  Montagua.  Nature  has  taken  entire  possession  of  the  site  which  man 
has  abandoned.  Where  the  hum  of  busy  populations  must  once  have  been 
heard — where  the  intellect  of  man  may  once  have  wrought  and  wrangled, 
there  now  reigns  the  dark  and  silent  seclusion  of  the  forest,  save  when  some 
inquisitive  traveler  breaks  in  upon  it  in  quest  of  the  secrets  of  the  past. 
Though  little  more  than  thirty  years  had  intervened  since  Del  Rio  attacked 
it  with  fire  and  ax,  laying  bare  the  environs  of  the  ruins,  the  forest  was,  on 
the  arrival  of  Mr.  Stephens  and  his  companions,  so  dense,  that  they  wen 
31 


482  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

obliged  to  work  their  way  forward  hatchet  in  hand.  The  extent  of  the  ruins 
of  Copan  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river  is  about  two  miles,  but  how  far 
they  extend  into  the  depths  of  the  forest  it  has  been  impossible  to  ascertain. 
On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  at  a  distance  of  about  a  mile,  a  ruin  has 
been  observed  on  the  top  of  a  mountain  2000  feet  high,  which  may  probably 
have  belonged  to  the  city ;  the  latter  may  consequently  have  spread  in  this 
direction  also.  Of  palaces,  or  other  dwellings,  there  are  no  remains  in  this 
place;  but  running  along  the  river  from  north  to  south  is  a  wall  624  feet  in 
length,  and  from  sixty  to  ninety  feet  high,  forming  one  of  the  sides  of  an 
oblong  inclosure,  which  it  is  customary  to  denominate  the  Temple,  and  the 
other  three  sides  of  which  are  formed  by  a  succession  of  pyramidal  structures 
and  terraced  walls,  measuring  from  thirty  to  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  in 
height.  The  river  wall  is  built  of  hewn  stones  from  three  to  six  feet  in 
length,  and  one  hundred  and  twelve  feet  in  breadth,  and  still  is  in  a  very 
good  state  of  preservation.  It  is  accessible  from  the  river  side  by  flights  of 
steps,  leading  also  on  the  inner-side  down  into  the  inclosed  area.  The  linf 
of  survey  taken  by  Stephens  was  2866  feet ;  but  the  walled  structures  em- 
braced within  it,  do  not  present  themselves  to  the  eye  in  unbroken  ranges, 
but  are  in  many  parts  in  a  state  of  decay,  and  in  others  are  concealed  by  the 
trees  which  have  introduced  themselves  wherever  they  have  found  sufficient 
soil  for  their  roots,  and  which  cover  most,  and  especially,  all  the  level  areas. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  south-west  angle  of  the  river  wall  of  the 
Temple,  are  two  small  pyramidal  structures,  one  of  which  is  concealed  with 
a  part  of  the  city  wall,  running  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  which 
seems  to  have  planked  a  gateway,  probably  the  principal  entrance  from  the 
river  side.  Running  at  right  angles  with  the  river,  and  somewhat  within  the 
boundary  marked  by  these  structures,  is  the  southern  wall  of  the  Temple, 
beginning  with  a  range  of  steps  about  thirty  feet  high.  At  the  south-eastern 
extremity  of  this  wall,  is  another  massive  pyramidal  structure.  To  the  east 
of  this  are  the  remains  of  terraces  and  earthen  pyramids,  and  a  passage 
twenty  feet  wide,  which  seems  to  have  formed  a  gateway.  From  hence  the 
south-eastern  corner  of  the  quadrangle  surveyed,  stretches  northward  another 
massive  pyramidal  structure;  and  at  a  short  distance,  in  the  same  direction, 
is  a  detached  pyramid,  about  fifty  feet  square  at  the  base,  and  thirty  feet 
high.  To  the  right  of  the  latter  a  confused  range  of  terraces  branches  off 
into  the  depths  of  the  forest.  The  range  of  the  Temple  walls,  running  from 
south  to  north,  continues  for  a  distance  of  about  four  hundred  feet,  and  then 
turning  at  right  angles  to  the  left,  runs  again  southward,  and  joins  the  other 
extremity  of  the  river  wall.  Within  the  area  inclosed  by  these  walls  are 
other  terraces,  and  pyramids  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  high  on  the  slope, 
inclosing  two  smaller  areas  or  courtyards,  one  of  which,  situated  near  the 
eastern  boundary  wall,  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  square,  and  the  other, 
close  to  the  river  wall,  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  by  ninety — both  being 
forty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  accessible  by  steps  cut  in  the  sides 
of  the  sloping  walls  that  inclose  them. 

Down  the  sides  of  all  the  walls  and  pyramids,  and  covering  the  ground  ot 
tlie  quadrangular  inclosures,  are   innumerable  remains  of  sculpture,  some 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  483 

still  maintaining  their  original  position,  others  forming  heaps  of  fragments, 
among  which,  however,  many  blocks  are  remarkably  well  preserved.  Half- 
way up  the  sides  of  one  pyramid  are  rows  of  death's  heads  of  colossal 
proportions,  but  which,  from  their  peculiar  conformation,  are  supposed  to 
represent  the  skulls  of  monkeys,  and  not  of  men — a  supposition  which  is 
strengthened  by  the  fact,  that  among  the  fragments  at  the  foot  of  the  pyramid 
was  found  the  effigy  of  a  colossal  ape  or  baboon,  bearing  a  strong  resemblance 
to  the  animals  of  the  same  species  originally  figured  on  the  great  obelisk 
from  the  ruins  of  Thebes,  which  now  graces  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  in 
Paris.  These  animals  were  worshiped  at  Thebes  under  the  name  of 
Cynocephali,  and  it  has  been  thought  not  unlikely  that  the  same  may  have 
been  the  case  among  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  Copan.  Among  the  frag- 
ments on  the  ground  were  also  several  human  heads,  sculptured,  like  those 
of  the  apes,  in  bold  relief,  and  impressing  the  beholder  with  the  belief  that 
they  were  portraits — nature  being  closely  followed,  and  the  features  and 
expression  of  the  countenance  of  each  bearing  a  strong  individual  character. 
None  of  these  heads  are  encumbered  with  the  extraordinary  head-dresses 
which  form  a  striking  feature  in  the  generality  of  the  sculptured  figures  in 
the  ruined  cities  of  Central  America.  The  whole  of  the  sides  of  the  terraced 
walls  and  pyramids  have  seemingly  been  decorated  with  similar  sculptures, 
which  were  fixed  by  stone  tenons,  in  many  cases  still  adhering  to  them,  and 
which  were  driven  into  the  wall.  In  many  cases  traces  of  color  are  still 
visible,  indicating  that  these  sculptures,  like  those  of  many  of  the  ancient 
nations  of  the  Old  World,  had  been  painted. 

At  the  foot  of  one  of  the  pyramidal  walls  in  the  courtyard  most  distant  from 
the  river,  stands  one  of  the  monuments  which  form  the  peculiar  character- 
istics of  the  ruins  of  Copan.  These  are  stone  columns  or  obelisks,  from 
eleven  to  thirteen  feet  in  height,  and  from  three  to  four  feet  in  width,  and 
something  less  in  depth,  in  every  case  having  on  the  principal  face  a  human 
figure,  male  or  female,  sculptured  in  high  relief,  presenting  its  full  front,  and 
having  the  upper  part  of  the  arm  pressed  close  in  to  the  body,  and  the  lower 
part  brought  forward,  so  as  to  allow  of  the  hands  being  pressed  against  the 
breast.  They  are  all  clad  in  rich  garments,  some  in  the  form  of  short  tunics, 
others  more  like  long  pantaloons.  The  feet,  which  are  of  clumsy  form,  are 
generally  covered  with  a  kind  of  buskin  ;  and  the  heads  are  adorned  with 
coverings  of  the  most  fanciful  description,  the  details  of  which  can  hardly  be 
detached  from  the  mass  of  intricate  sculptured  ornaments  with  which  the 
monuments  are  covered  on  all  sides  from  top  to  base.  The  idol  (for  such 
these  objects  are  supposed  to  have  been)  to  which  we  have  particularly 
alluded  differs  from  others  in  its  vicinity,  inasmuch  as  it  is  broader  a*  top 
than  below,  while  the  sculpture  is  in  lower  relief.  The  face  is  of  a  calm  and 
placid  expression,  and  the  sculptured  ornaments,  though  difficult  to  define, 
are  graceful  and  pleasing  in  design.  The  back  and  sides  of  the  monument 
are  covered  with  hieroglyphics,  which,  as  will  be  seen,  abound  among  the 
sculptured  remains  in  the  ruined  cities,  and  prove  that,  if  the  inhabitants 
of  these  regions  were  not  in  possession  of  such  characters  at  the  time  of 
the  Conquest,  the  nations  or  generations  which  preceded  them  were  fully 


484  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

acquainted  with  the  use  of  these  written  signs.  In  front  of  the  idol  is  an  altar, 
lour  feet  high,  and  six  feet  square,  of  one  block  of  stone,  and  resting  on  four 
globes  cut  out  of  the  same  material.  The  bas-reliefs  on  the  sides  represent 
a  series  of  sixteen  human  figures,  seated  cross-legged,  in  Oriental  fashion. 
Each  bears  in  his  hand  a  weapon,  the  precise  character  of  which  it  is  difficult 
to  ascertain,  but  in  which  some  archaeologists  persist  in  seeing  only  spiral 
shells ;  and  the  heads  of  all  are  covered  with  very  peculiar  head-dresses 
without  plumes.  On  the  side  facing  the  west  are  the  two  principal  figures 
of  the  series,  sitting  with  their  faces  toward  each  other,  as  if  engaged  in 
discussion,  while  seven  of  the  other  fourteen  figures,  turning  their  heads  in  the 
direction  of  each,  seem  to  form  their  respective  retinues.  The  top  of  the 
altar  is  divided  into  thirty-six  tablets  of  hieroglyphics,  probably  recording  the 
important  transaction  which  the  two  parties  have  met  to  discuss.  That  pre- 
cise rules  had  not  existed  relative  to  the  costume  of  the  day,  may  be  con- 
cluded from  the  circumstance,  that  of  the  sixteen  head-dresses  not  two  are 
alike  ;  and  though  we  are  unwilling  to  believe  that  the  extraordinaiy  facial 
angels  represented  could  be  meant  to  portray  really  existing  faces,  still,  it 
must  be  admitted  that  there  is  likewise  much  variety  in  the  countenances. 

From  the  pyramidal  terrace  forming  the  outer  wall  of  the  smaller  court 
within  the  temple,  there  is  a  subterraneous  passage  leading  to  the  river  wall, 
and  below  this  a  sepulchral  vault  was  opened  by  Colonel  Galindo,  who  ex- 
plored the  ruins  some  years  ago  on  account  of  the  Mexican  government.  On 
each  side  of  the  vault,  which  is  six  feet  high,  and  ten  feet  long,  by  five  and 
a  half  in  width,  are  small  niches,  which,  at  the  time  of  the  opening,  contained 
numerous  earthenware  vessels  of  different  descriptions,  filled  with  human 
bones,  and  packed  in  lime.  The  floor  of  the  vault,  paved  with  stones,  and 
coated  with  lime,  was  strewn  with  various  articles,  such  as  stone  knives, 
stalactites,  marine  shells,  and  a  small  death's  head,  cut  in  a  green  stone,  and 
described  as  of  exquisite  workmanship. 

At  some  distance  from  the  inclosure  denominated  the  Temple,  in  a  level 
area,  inclosed  by  terraced  walls,  stands  a  group  of  eight  stone  idols,  similar 
in  form  and  size,  and  in  the  position  of  the  hands,  to  the  one  above  described, 
but  each  having  a  distinct  individual  character.  They  are  placed  at  distances 
of  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  from  each  other,  and  in  front  of  each  is  an 
altar  of  corresponding  character.  The  chief  object  of  the  sculptor  having 
evidently  been  to  inspire  awe  and  terror,  he  has  endeavored  to  produce  the 
desired  effect  by  exaggeration  .of  feature,  and  has,  in  consequence,  in  some 
cases  represented  countenances  ludicrously  hideous ;  others  have,  however, 
a  purely  terrific  expression,  and  one  or  two  are,  on  the  contrary,  pleasing. 
The  workmanship  displayed  in  some  of  these  monuments  is  considered  equal 
to  the  finest  Egyptian  sculpture,  but  in  others  it  is  more  rude.  Some  are 
covered  on  all  sides  with  hieroglyphics,  and  are  for  that  reason  the  most 
interesting  in  the  eyes  of  antiquaries,  as  there  is  always  a  hope  that  the 
industry  which  found  a  clue  to  the  hieroglyphics  of  Egypt  may  also  one  day 
be  able  to  unravel  the  mysteries  of  Central  America.  The  engraving  on  the 
following  page  exhibits  on  a  very  minute  scale  the  front  and  back  of  one  of 
these  gigantic  'dols,  every  inch  of  which  is  covered  with  ornamental  sculp- 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  485 

lures  and  hieroglyphics.  At  the  foot  of  one  of  them  is  a  colossal  sculptured 
head  of  an  alligator,  half-buried  in  the  earth.  In  one  only  of  the  ruined 
cities  have  there  been  found  monuments  similar  to  the  idols  of  Copan.  At 
some  distance  from  the  ruins,  deep  in  the  heart  of  the  wide-spreading  forest, 
are  the  quarries  whence  have  been  drawn  the  materials  for  all  the  monuments 
we  have  surveyed. 

Palenque,  Uxmal,  Kabah,  and  Chi- 
cnen,  the  four  other  cities  which  seem 
to  us  the  most  remarkable,  offer  a  char- 
acter different  from  that  of  Copan,  inas- 
much as  the  pyramidal  structures  in 
these  places  are  still  crowned  with  edi- 
fices of  a  stately  and  magnificent  char- 
acter, and  the  pyramids  and  terraces 
are  in  a  much  better  state  of  preserva- 
tion. The  ruins  designated  by  the 
name  of  Palenque  are,  as  before  ob- 
served, situated  in  the  province  of  Chia- 
pas, and  have  borrowed  their  name 
from  a  neghboring  village.  With  re- 
gard to  the  extent  of  these  ruins,  ac- 
counts  differ:  according  to  the  Indians 
and  the  other  inhabitants  of  the  village 
of  Palenque — who  do  not,  however, 
seem  to  have  any  real  knowledge  of  the  subject,  but  whose  imaginations 
delight  in  adding  to  the  marvelous  character  of  the  remains  in  their  neighbor- 
hood— they  cover  an  area  of  no  less  than  sixty  miles ;  Du  Paix  and  Del  Rio 
give  them  a  circuit  of  seven  leagues;  while  Waldeck  maintains  that  they  cover 
a  surface  of  only  one  league,  or  about  three  miles.  How  far  any  of  these 
accounts  are  correct  it  would  perhaps  be  difficult  to  ascertain,  as  the  surround- 
ing country  is  covered  for  miles  with  a  forest  of  gigantic  trees,  rendered  more 
dense  by  an  impenetrable  growth  of  underwood.  In  their  descriptions  of  the 
Casas  de  Piedras,  the  most  interesting  and  important  objects  among  these 
remains,  all  the  explorers  agree.  When  Del  Rio  visited  them,  they  were 
fourteen  in  number,  disposed  around  a  rectangular  area  450  yards  by  300 — 
five  being  on  the  north  side,  four  on  the  south,  one  on  the  south-west,  and 
three  on  the  east,  while  the  largest  of  the  group  occupied  a  central  position 
Mr.  Stephens  mentions  only  five  as  being  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and 
describes  them,  on  first  view,  as  being  •  in  style  and  effect  unique,  extraordinary, 
and  mournfully  beautiful.'  The  largest  building  stands  upon  an  oblong 
mound  forty  feet  high,  formed  by  human  labor,  having  originally  been  faced 
with  stone,  and  measuring  at  the  base  310  feet  by  260.  The  building  itself 
is  200  feet  long,  and  180  feet  deep,  while  the  height  of  the  walls  is  no  more 
than  twenty-five  feet.  It  is  constructed  of  stone  and  mortar,  coated  with 
stucco,  and  has  originally  been  painted,  the  remains  of  red,  yellow,  blue,  black 
and  white  paint,  being  still  visible  in  many  places.  The  front  faces  the  east 
and  contains  fourteen   doorways,  separated  by  square  piers  adorned  with 


486  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

spirited  figures  in  stucco.  Around  the  top  runs  a  broad,  projecting  stone 
cornice.  The  principal  doorway  is  indicated  by  a  flight  of  broad  stone  steps 
in  the  side  of  the  terrace  leading  up  to  it.  On  the  other  sides  of  the  palace, 
which  are  in  a  more  dilapidated  condition,  it  would  .seem  there  have  been 
similar  doorways,  all  giving  access  to  a  corridor  running  around  the  building, 
and  communicating  by  two  doors  only,  with  a  second  corridor  running  parallel 
with  it.  Adjoining  these  corridors,  are  ranges  of  chambers  communicating 
by  doorways  and  flights  of  steps,  with  an  open  courtyard  on  a  lower  level, 
but  inclosed  by  the  walls  of  the  palace ;  such,  indeed,  are  generally  the  inte- 
rior arrangements  of  the  buildings  in  these  ruined  cities.  In  cases  where 
there  are  no  courtyards,  the  back  rooms  receive  light  through  doorways  com- 
municating with  front  rooms  or  corridors,  these  likewise  being  devoid  of  all 
apertures  excepting  doorways  opening  upon  the  platforms  without.  In  one 
of  the  courts  or  open  areas  at  the  Palace  of  Palenque,  is  a  stone  tower,  thirty 
feet  square  at  the  base,  and  three  stories  high.  The  purpose  for  which  it  has 
served  is  difficult  to  divine,  as  the  outer  wall  forms  but  a  shell  surrounding 
an  inner  structure,  presenting  no  visible  means  of  entrance.  Between  the 
outer  wall  and  this  inner  structure  is  a  very  narrow  staircase,  leading  up  to 
the  top,  but  terminating  abruptly  against  a  dead  stone  ceiling.  Within  the 
precincts  of  the  palace  are  other  detached  and  much  ruined  buildings,  the 
character  of  which  it  is  consequently  difficult  to  define.  From  the  door  of 
the  inner  corridor  on  the  front  side  of  the  building,  a  flight  of  stone  steps, 
thirty  feet  broad,  leads  down  into  the  principal  courtyard,  a  rectangular  area 
eighty  feet  by  seventy;  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  a  similar  flight  correspond- 
ing with  a  corridor  in  the  interior  of  the  building.  On  each  side  of  both 
these  flights  of  steps  are  sculptured  bas-reliefs  of  grim  human  figures,  nine  or 
ten  feet  high.  Some  are  standing,  others  kneeling;  others  seated  cross- 
legged  ;  and  the  greater  number  have  one  or  both  hands  pressed  against  the 
breast,  as  if  expressive  of  suffering,  which  is  also  depicted  in  some  of  the 
upturned  faces.  The  forms  are  uncouth,  and  the  proportions  incorrect;  but 
there  is  a  certain  force  of  expression  in  the  countenances  and  attitudes,  which 
renders  them  interesting  even  as  specimens  of  artistic  skill.  We  should  far 
surpass  our  limits  were  we  to  attempt  to  give  a  detailed  description  of  the 
sculptured  bas-reliefs,  and  the  figures  and  groups  in  stucco,  which  decorate 
in  rich  profusion  the  walls  of  the  innumerable  rooms  and  corridors  in  the 
palace,  and  are  here  and  there  interspersed  with  tablets  of  hieroglyphics. 
We  shall  therefore  limit  oursei  es  to  saying  that  the  figures  are,  as  regards 
the  style  of  countenance,  dress,  and  indeed  their  whole  appearance,  unlike 
those  of  any  other  known  monuments.  But  though  many  of  the  strange 
bodily  deformities  which  they  exhibit  may  be  attributed  to  want  of  skill  m 
the  artist,  there  are  nevertheless  certain  peculiarities  of  physical  conformation 
which  recur  so  constantly,  as  to  impress  the  beholder  with  the  belief  that 
such,  or  nearly  such,  have  been  the  prevalent  forms  among  the  people  whom 
they  represent.  Among  these  peculiarities,  the  form  of  the  heads — flattened 
behind,  and  elongated  on  the  top — is  particularly  remarkable,  and  would 
seem  to  indicate  that  among  the  inhabitants  of  this  city,  as  among  some  of 
the  Noi  tli  American  Indians  of  the  present  day,  it  has  been  customary  to 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL   AMERICA.  487 

change  the,  natural  form  of  the  head  by  pressure  in  infancy.  Large  noses  and 
protruding  lips  also  very  generally  prevail.  The  head-dresses  are  distinguished 
by  plumes  of  feathers  in  exaggerated  profusion,  and  of  the  strangest  forms. 

The  other  buildings  at  Palenque  resemble  the  palace  in  architectural  and 
ornamental  features,  but  are  of  smaller  dimensions,  each  having  for  its  founda- 
tion an  artificial  pyramidal  structure.  In  one,  the  piers  of  the  front  corridoi 
are  decorated  with  figures  of  men  and  women  with  children  in  their  arms, 
but  they  are  much  damaged.  In  the  same  building  there  are  on  each  side 
of  the  principal  doorway  stone  tablets,  thirteen  feet  long,  and  eight  feet  high, 
covered  with  hieroglyphics.  And  it  has  been  observed  as  remarkable,  that 
these  characters  are  the  same  as  those  found  at  Copan,  and  also  in  several 
of  the  ruined  cities  of  Yucatan ;  thus  establishing  the  fact,  that  these  cities 
must  at  least  have  had  a  written  language  in  common,  though  the  Indians  at 
present  inhabiting  the  intermediate  territories  speak  several  distinct  languages 
and  are  quite  unintelligible  to  one  another.  On  the  back  wall  of  a  small 
oblong  chamber  in  one  of  the  Casas,  lighted  by  a  single  low  doorway,  is  a 
sculptured  tablet  of  a  very  remarkable  character.  In  the  center  is  a  cross 
placed  upon  a  kind  of  highly-ornamented  pedestal,  and  surmounted  by  an 
extraordinary  bird,  the  wings  and  tail  of  which  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to 
many  of  the  plumes  in  the  head-dresses  to  which  we  have  alluded.  Around 
the  neck  of  the  bird  hang  strings  of  beads,  from  which  is  suspended  an  orna- 
ment supposed  by  some  to  be  the  curious  flower  called  by  the  Mexicans 
'macphalxochitl,'  or  'flower  of  the  hand,'  the  pistil  being  in  the  form  of  a 
bird's  foot,  with  six  fingers  terminating  in  so  many  nails.  On  each  side  of 
the  cross,  and  with  their  faces  turned  toward  it,  are  two  male  figures  with  the 
same  strangely -shaped  heads  before-mentioned,  but  otherwise  of  great  sym- 
metry of  proportion,  and  considered  quite  equal  to  any  of  the  sculptured 
remains  in  Egypt.  One  of  these  figures  seems  in  the  act  of  making  an  offer- 
ing to  the  bird,  while  the  other  is  looking  on.  It  is  remarkable,  as  a  probable 
indication  of  the  figures  being  the  portraits  of  living  personages,  that  the 
looker-on,  being  considerably  shorter  than  his  companion,  is  mounted  on  a 
kind  of  footstool,  in  order  to  reach  the  same  height.  The  costume  of  the 
men  is  different  from  that  of  all  the  other  figures  found  amonsr  the  ruins :  for 
while  the  garments  of  the  latter  in  many  cases  seem  made  of  the  skins  of 
animals  with  the  tails  still  attached  to  them,  the  folds  of  the  dresses  in  the 
present  case  indicate  that  they  are  made  of  some  pliable  texture.  These  two 
figures  occur  again  on  another  tablet,  placed  in  a  similar  position  in  one  of 
the  other  Casas.  Here  they  are  both  apparently  making  offerings  to  a  hideous 
mask,  with  the  tongue  lolling  out  of  the  mouth,  and  supported  by  two  crossed 
batons  richly  ornamented.  The  objects  offered  are  in  this  case  decidedly 
infants,  and  are  presented  to  the  mask  seated  on  the  palms  of  the  men's 
hands.  The  small  chambers  in  which  these  tablets  are  placed,  are  believed 
to  have  been  places  for  private  devotion,  and  have,  in  consequence,  obtained 
the  name  of  'ad oratories.'  The  floors  of  these  adoratories  were  excavated 
by  Del  Rio,  and  found  to  contain  an  earthen  vessel  and  a  circular  stone, 
beneath  which  were  a  lance-head,  two  small  pyramids  with  the  figure  of  a 
heart  made  of  a  dark   crystal,  and  two  covered  earthen  jars  containing  a 


488  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

substance  of  a  vermilion  color.  Among  the  stucco  ornaments  in»  all  these 
buildings  there  are  also  designs  of  plants  and  flowers ;  and  among  the  frag- 
ments of  sculpture  Mr.  Stephens  mentions  a  beautiful  head  and  two  bodies, 
1  in  justness  of  proportion  and  symmetry  of  form  approaching  the  Greek 
models.'  One  statue  only  has  been  found  among  the  ruins  of  Palenque.  It 
is  ten  feet  six  inches  high,  and  is  more  simple  and  severe  in  character  than 
any  of  the  other  sculptured  figures ;  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  it  might 
altogether  be  taken  for  the  production  of  another  land  and  another  time,  did 
not  a  hieroglyphic,  placed  in  front  about  the  middle  of  the  body,  and  from 
which  depends  some  symbolical  ornament,  at  once  recall  to  mind  the  idols  of 
Copan,  in  which  both  are  never-failing  features.  There  are  no  windows  in 
the  palace  at  Palenque ;  but  on  the  inner  wall  of  the  outer  corridor,  which  it 
will  be  remembered,  communicates  by  two  doorways  only  with  the  parallel 
corridor  within,  there  are  apertures  of  about  a  foot  in  size,  some  in  the  form 
of  the  Greek  cross,  others  in  that  of  the  Egyptian  Tou.  The  floors  are  of 
cement,  hard  as  that  in  the  Roman  baths,  and  the  ceilings  arched,  as  is 
invariably  the  case  in  all  the  apartments  and  corridors  in  the  buildings  of 
these  deserted  cities.  The  perfect  arch,  was  unknown  to  their  builders, 
as  to  those  of  many  of  the  nations  of  antiquity  ;  and  their  substitute  for  it  is 
constructed  precisely  on  the  same  plan  as  the  Cyclopean  arch,  prevalent 
among  the  ancient  remains  of  Greece  and  Italy.  It  is  formed  by  superin- 
cumbent layers  of  stones  overlapping  each  other,  until  the  two  sides  of  the 
walls  approach  within  about  a  foot  of  each  other,  the  top  being  finally 
covered  in  with  a  flat  layer  of  stones. 

About  seventeen  leagues  directly  south  of  the  city  of  Merida,  in  the 
peninsula  of  Yucatan,  are  the  ruins  of  Uxmal,  the  best-preserved  of  which 
are  scattered  over  an  area  1600  feet  by  1100,  and  consist  of  six  distinct  and 
extensive  buildings,  and  a  large  truncated  pyramid,  the  summit  of  which  is 
not  crowned  with  any  edifice.  Beside  these,  there  are  the  remains  of  numerous 
other  edifices,  but  in  a  state  of  great  decay.  The  walls  of  the  city  may  also 
be  traced  to  a  considerable  distance.  The  principal  building,  called  Casa  del 
Gobernador,  or  the  governor's  house,  occupies,  like  all  the  other  important 
buildings  that  we  have  mentioned,  the  upper  platform  of  an  artificial  elevation, 
which  rises  in  three  terraces  from  the  level  plain,  and  which,  notwithstanding 
its  great  dimensions,  bears  evidence  of  being  the  work  of  man.  The  first 
terrace  is  575  feet  long,  three  feet  high,  and  fifteen  broad:  the  second  is 
twenty  feet  high,  250  feet  wide,  and  545  feet  long;  the  third,  on  which  stands 
the  stately  edifice,  is  nineteen  feet  high,  thirty  feet  broad,  and  360  feet  long ; 
and  the  sides  of  all  are  supported  by  substantial  stone  walls,  rounded  at  the 
angles.  In  the  center  of  the  platform  of  the  second  terrace  commences  a 
flight  of  steps  130  feet  wide,  and  leading  up  to  the  third  terrace  immediately 
in  front  of  the  Casa  del  Gobernador,  the  facade  of  which  is  322  feet  long. 
The  effect  produced  by  the  grandeur  of  the  position,  and  the  vastness  of  the 
dimensions  of  this  magnificent  building,  is  further  increased  by  the  richness 
of  the  architectural  ornaments  which  have  been  lavished  on  the  external 
walls.  These  walls  are  constructed  entirely  of  stone ;  and  from  the  base  to 
the  cornice — which  runs  all  round  the  building  immediately  above  the  door- 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  48;) 

ways,  and  about  the  mid-height  of  the  building — they  present  a  smooth 
surface.  But  above  the  cornice  the  four  sides  of  the  edifice  present  *  one 
solid  mass  of  rich,  complicated,  and  elaborately-sculptured  ornaments,  forming 
a  sort  of  arabesque.'  Above  the  doorways,  of  which  there  are  eleven  in 
front,  and  one  at  each  end,  the  ornaments  are,  in  particular,  very  elaborate, 
representing  small  human  figures,  with  head-dresses  of  rich  plumes — that 
above  the  center  doorway  being  larger  than  the  others.  The  roof  of  this 
building  is  flat,  and  was  originally  covered  with  cement ;  and  the  rear  eleva- 
tion is  a  solid  stone  wall  nine  feet  thick,  without  doorways  or  apertures  of  any 
kind.  Within  are  two  parallel  ranges  of  rooms,  each  range  numbering  as 
many  rooms  as  there  are  doorways  in  the  front  wall,  through  which  alone 
they  receive  the  light,  each  back-room  communicating  with  the  corresponding 
front-room  by  a  door  immediately  opposite  the  outer  one.  The  height  of  this, 
as  of  all  the  other  ruined  buildings,  does  not  correspond  with  the  imposing 
breadth  of  the  facade,  it  being  little  more  than  twenty-four  or  twenty-five 
feet.  Apparently,  the  lintels  of  the  doorways  have  all  been  of  wood,  and 
some  were  still  in  their  places,  and  in  very  good  condition,  when  examined  by 
Mr.  Stephens.  This  is,  however,  no  proof  against  the  antiquity  of  the  build- 
ings, as  these  beams  are  of  a  very  hard  wood,  which,  it  is  said,  does  not  grow 
in  the  neighboring  forests,  but  must  have  been  transported  hither  from  the 
forests  near  the  Lake  of  Peten,  a  distance  of  about  300  miles.  In  one  of 
these  beams  were  carved  hieroglyphics  like  those  of  Copan  and  Palenque ; 
with  this  exception,  there  have  been  found  at  Uxmal  no  sculptured  bas-reliefs 
or  stuccoed  figures  as  at  Palenque,  and  no  idols  as  at  Copan.  From  the 
manner  in  which  the  sculptured  ornaments  on  the  exterior  of  the  buildings 
cover  the  stones — the  several  parts  of  one  design  occupying  several  adjoining 
stones — it  is  evident  that  these  must  have  been  placed  in  the  wall  before  they 
were  sculptured. 

On  the  terrace  below  that  on  which  stands  the  Casa  del  Gobernador  is 
another  edifice,  of  smaller  dimensions,  and  greater  simplicity  of  ornament, 
but  otherwise  of  the  same  general  construction.  This  building  is  called  the 
House  of  the  Tortoises  (Casa  de  las  Tortugas),  and,  according  to  some  of  the 
explorers,  owes  this  appellation  to  the  form  of  the  stones  with  which  the 
rectangular  court  inclosed  within  its  four  wings  was  paved.  These  stones 
are  described  as  being  each  six  inches  square,  and  exquisitely  cut  in  demi- 
relief,  with  the  full  and  accurate  figure  of  a  tortoise,  and  as  being  arranged 
in  groups  of  four,  with  the  heads  of  the  tortoises  together.  The  number 
required  to  cover  the  superficies  of  the  court  is  said  to  have  been  43,660. 
Of  this  interesting  feature,  proving  an  amount  of  skill  and  enterprise  in  the 
builders  of  the  cities  even  surpassing  that  displayed  in  the  remains  still 
extant,  we  are  sorry  to  say  Mr.  Stephens  makes  no  mention.  According  to 
him,  the  edifice  has  obtained  its  name  from  a  row  of  sculptured  tortoises 
adorning  the  cornice  which  runs  round  the  top  of  the  whole  building.  On 
the  same  terrace  as  La  Casa  de  las  Tortugas  are  some  other  remains,  the 
purpose  of  which  is  not  evident.  Such  is,  for  instance,  an  oblong  structure 
two  hundred  feet  long,  fifteen  feet  wide,  and  about  three  feet  high,  and  along 
tbe  foot  of  which  runs  a  range  of  pedestals  and  broken  columns.     On  anotliei 


490  RUIN"ED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

part  of  the  terrace,  and  within  a  quadrangular  inclosure,  is  a  round  stone  of 
rude  and  irregular  appearance,  eight  feet  high,  and  five  feet  in  diameter, 
which  has  obtained  from  the  Indians  the  name  of  the  Picote,  or  the  'Whip- 
ping-Post.' Similar  stones  in  similar  positions  occur  in  many  of  the  ruined 
cities,  and  have  therefore  probably  been  connected  with  some  national  custom 
or  religious  rite.  The  same  may  be  said  of  two  other  mysterious  structures 
connected  with  the  ruins  of  Uxmal.  These  are  two  edifices,  each  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-eight  feet  long,  and  thirty  feet  deep,  placed  opposite  to  each 
other,  seventy  feet  apart,  and  having  apparently  been  precisely  similar  ii* 
plan  and  ornament.  The  sides  facing  each  other  have  been  embellished  with 
sculptured  ornaments,  of  which  the  coils  of  serpents  have  formed  part  These 
edifices  have  no  doorways  or  openings  of  any  kind,  and  on  being  broken  into, 
proved  to  be  nothing  but  solid  walls.  In  the  center  of  each  wall,  and  exactly 
opposite  to  each  other,  are  the  remains  of  two  large  stone  rings.  Two  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet  south  of  these  structures  is  a  group  of  buildings,  sur- 
rounding a  rectangular  courtyard,  entered  through  an  arched  gateway,  and 
called  the  house  of  the  Nuns  (Casa  de  las  Monjas).  The  chief  wing  of  this 
group  is  two  hundred  and  seventy-nine  feet  long,  and  all  the  buildings  are 
more  richly  ornamented  even  than  the  Casa  del  Gobernador.  Here,  again, 
huge  serpents  form  the  leading  feature  in  the  sculptured  ornaments.  The 
next  building  stands  upon  an  artificial,  oblong  mound,  rounded  at  the  extremi- 
ties, and  not  cut  in  terraces  as  the  foregoing,  but  rising  in  a  very  steep  ascent 
from  the  plain,  and  accessible  by  a  range  of  uncommonly  steep  steps.  The 
building  is,  like  the  others,  of  stone,  the  walls  being  on  the  inside  smooth 
and  polished,  and  externally  plain  from  the  base  to  the  cornice  above  the 
doorways,  and  from  this  to  the  roof  elaborately  sculptured.  From  the  front- 
door of  this  building  an  inclined  plain,  twenty-two  feet  long,  and  paved  with 
cement,  leads  down  to  the  roof  of  another  building,  occupying  a  lower  posi- 
tion, and  the  walls  of  which  are  likewise  richly  sculptured.  This  group  goes 
under  the  name  of  the  House  of  the  Dwarf.  The  last  building  which  we 
shall  describe  is  the  Casa  de  los  Palamos,  or  the  House  of  the  Pigeons,  so 
called  from  the  peculiar  character  given  to  it  by  a  range  of  structures  elevated 
on  the  flat  roof  of  the  building,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  range  of 
gables  after  the  fashion  of  the  German  buildings  of  the  middle  ages,  which, 
being  perforated  with  small  oblong  openings,  bear  some  resemblance  to 
pigeon-houses.  These  structures  are  nine  in  number,  are  built  of  stone,  and 
have  all  originally  been  covered  with  ornaments  in  stucco.  In  one  of  the 
noble  courtyards  inclosed  within  the  different  wings  of  this  edifice  is  another 
of  those  strange  stones  to  which  the  Indians  have  given  the  name  of  Whip- 
ping-Posts. It  must  be  observed,  with  regard  to  the  different  appellations 
given  to  the  edifices  in  these  ruined  cities,  that  they  are  entirely  unconnected 
with  the  past  history  of  the  cities  or  of  the  edifices  themselves,  and  are  only 
applied  in  consequence  of  some  fancied  resemblance.  At  the  north-east 
angle  of  the  Casa  de  los  Palamos  is  a  vast  range  of  terraces  facing  east  and 
west,  and  encumbered  with  ruins,  and  with  these  we  will  take  leave  of  the 
remains  of  Uxmal,  though  we  have  touched  upon  comparatively  few  of  the 
remarkable  details  which  they  comprise. 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 


491 


At  Chichen,  another  of  the  ruined  cities  of  Yucatan,  the  surviving  edifices: 
are  spread  over  an  area  of  about  two  miles  in  circumference.  The  most 
beautiful,  called,  like  one  at  Uxmal,  Casa  de  las  Monjas  (House  of  the  Nuns), 
is  six  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  in  circumference,  and  sixty-five  feet  high. 
This  unusual  height,  which  is  in  fact  only  apparent,  is  owing  to  three  ranges 
of  buildings  being  erected,  the  one  immediately  above  the  other,  yet  so  that 
each  of  the  upper  ranges,  being  built  back,  and  not  on  the  roof  of  the  lower 
structure,  rests  on  an  independent  foundation,  while  the  roof  of  the  lower 
range  extends  like  a  platform  in  front  of  it.  Such  is  the  mode  invariably 
followed  in  these  regions  when  the  buildings  have  the  appearance  of  consist- 
ing of  several  stories.  In  the  present  case,  the  second  range  is  the  most 
elaborately  decorated,  the  ornaments  being  in  the  same  style  as  those  of 
Uxmal,  and   as  shown   in  the  annexed  sketch  of  one  of  its  facades.     The 


lower  range  seems  to  be  nothing  but  a  solid  mass  of  masonry,  meiely 
intended  to  serve  as  a  pedestal  for  the  upper  ranges.  A  grand  staircase, 
fifty-six  feet  wide,  leads  from  terrace  to  terrace  up  to  the  top  of  the  building. 
The  chief  apartment  in  the  interior  of  the  second  range,  which  is  entered  and 
lighted  by  three  doorways  on  the  south  side,  is  forty-seven  feet  long,  and  only 
nine  feet  deep,  thus  having,  like  all  the  large  rooms  in  these  buildings,  more 
ftie  character  of  a  gallery  or  corridor  than  of  a  room.  In  the  back  wall  are 
nine  oblong  niches ;  and  from  the  floor  to  the  very  center  of  the  arched  ceiling 
the  walls  are  covered  with  paintings,  now  much  effaced,  but  in  many  places 
still  glowing  with  bright  and  vivid  colors.  The  subjects  represented  have 
probably  been  processions  of  warriors,  for  human  heads  adorned  with  plumes, 
and  hands  bearing  shields  and  spears,  constantly  recur. 

One  hundred  and  fifty  yards  east  of  the  Monjas  is  a  building  which  does 
not,  like  the  generality,  stand  upon  a  raised  terrace,  but  to  which,  neverthe- 
less, the  appearance  of  an  elevated  position  has  been  given  by  digging  out 
the  earth  for  some  distance  in  front  of  it.  This  building,  the  exterior  of 
which  is  rude  and  unadorned,  faces  the  east,  and  measures  one  hundred  and 
forty-nine  feet  in  front  and  forty-eight  feet  in  depth.     In  the  center  of  the 


492  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

eastern  facade  is  a  broad  staircase  leading  up  to  the  roof,  which  is  flat,  as 
usual ;  and  corresponding  with  this,  on  the  other  side  of  the  building,  is  a 
solid  mass  of  masonry  forty-four  feet  by  thirty-four,  standing  out  from  the 
wall,  and  serving  no  apparent  purpose.  The  number  of  chambers  within  the 
building  is  eighteen,  and  that  of  the  outer  doorways  nine.  In  the  dark 
mystery  of  one  of  the  back  chambers  is  a  sculptured  tablet,  representing  a 
sitting  figure,  supposed  to  be  engaged  in  the  performance  of  some  mysterious 
rite,  and  around  it  are  several  rows  of  hieroglyphic  figures,  similar  to  those 
found  in  the  other  cities.  In  their  graphic  language  the  Indians  have 
denominated  this  building  Akatzeeb — that  is,  "  The  Writing  in  the  Dark." 
North  of  the  Monjas  is  another  building,  called  by  them  Caracol  (The  Wind- 
ing Staircase),  different  in  style  from  any  as  yet  described.  It  is  circular  in 
form,  has  a  conical  shaped  roof,  and  stands  on  the  highest  of  two  terraces, 
to  which  ascent  is  gained  by  a  flight  of  steps  forty -five  feet  wide,  and  on 
each  side  of  which  runs  a  kind  of  balustrade,  formed  by  the  entwined  bodies 
of  two  enormous  serpents.  In  front  of  the  steps  and  standing  against  the 
wall  of  the  second  terrace  is  a  pedestal,  supposed  to  have  supported  an  idol 
The  building  which  stands  on  the  second  platform,  is  entered  by  four  small 
doors  facing  the  cardinal  points.  Within  is  a  circular  corridor,  and  within  this 
another,  to  which  admittance  is  gained  by  four  smaller  doors  intermediate  to 
the  others,  so  as  to  face  north-east,  north-west,  south-east,  and  south-west. 
This  corridor  encircles  a  cylindrical  mass  of  solid  stone,  seven  feet  six  inches 
in  diameter,  forming  as  it  were  the  axis  of  the  building.  The  corridors  are 
arched  in  the  usual  manner,  coated  with  plaster  and  p'ainted. 

At  some  distance  from  this  singular  structure  are  others,  repeating  on  a 
grander  scale  what  we  have  seen  at  Uxmal,  and  supposed  to  be  connected 
with  the  public  games  of  the  country.  Two  walls,  each  two  hundred  and 
seventy-four  feet  long  and  thirty  feet  thick,  run  parallel  with  each  other  at 
a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  In  the  center  of  each  wall 
and  exactly  opposite  each  other,  at  the  height  of  twenty  feet  from  the  ground, 
are  two  massive  stone  rings,  four  feet  in  diameter  and  with  serpents  sculp- 
tured on  the  outer  circle.  At  the  distance  of  one  hundred  feet  from  the 
northern  and  southern  extremities  of  the  walls,  and  facing  the  open  space 
inclosed  between  them,  are  two  buildings,  the  one  thirty-five,  the  other 
eighty  feet  long,  situated  on  elevations,  and  each  containing  one  room  only. 
Both  are  much  dilapidated  ;  but  on  the  inner  walls  of  the  smallest  there  are 
still  traces  of  rich  sculptures,  and  in  front  of  each  are  the  remains  of  two 
columns,  also  richly  sculptured.  On  the  outer  side,  and  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  one  of  the  parallel  walls,  stands  a  building  surpassing  in  interest 
any  as  yet  mentioned.  It  consists  of  two  ranges — the  upper  one,  which  is 
best  reserved,  being  ornamented  externally  with  a  frieze  in  bas-relief,  repre- 
senting a  succession  of  lynxes  or  tigers  ;  while  the  whole  of  the  inner  wall  of 
the  lower  structure,  laid  bare  by  the  falling  of  the  outer  wall,  is  likewise 
covered  with  bas-reliefs,  consisting  of  rows  of  human  figures  interspersed  with 
fanciful  ornaments,  and  each  row  being  separated  from  the  other  by  an  orna- 
mental border  of  simple  and  pleasing  design.  The  figures  are  all  males,  with 
buskined  feet  and  helmet-like  head-dresses  adorned  with  plumes.     The  other 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 


493 


parts  of  their  dress  are  so  indistinct  and  different  in  each,  as  to  allow  fun* 
scope  to  the  imagination,  but  to  admit  of  no  accurate  description.  Each  of 
the  figures  in  the  upper  row  carries  in  his  hand  a  bundle  of  spears,  and  all 
are  painted.  The  upper  range  of  the  building,  the  front  corridor  of  which  is 
supported  by  massive  pillars  elaborately  sculptured,  presents  scenes  of  still 
greater  interest.  Here,  for  the  first  time  throughout  these  deserted  cities, 
we  catch  a  glimpse  of  some  of  the  pastimes  and  occupations  of  their  myste- 
rious inhabitants,  though  here,  again,  the  light  by  which  they  must  be  read 
is  wanting.  From  the  front  corridor,  which  overlooks  the  open  space 
between  the  walls  of  what  Mr.  Stephens  denominated  the  Tennis-Court,  a 
doorway — the  lintel  of  which  is  a  massive  beam  of  sapote-wood  richly  sculp- 
tured, and  the  jambs  of  which  retain  traces  of  sculptured  figures — leads  to 
an  inner  chamber  with  walls  and  ceiling  covered  with  paintings.  The  colors 
are  in  some  places  still  bright  and  vivid,  in  others  much  effaced.  Some  of 
the  figures  seem  dancing  a  war-dance  with  shield  and  spear  ;  others  are 
placed  on  low  seats,  seemingly  of  basket-work  ;  and  others,  on  cushions :  one 
of  these  figures  holds  in  one  hand  a  large  circular  ring,  like  a  child's  hoop, 
which  he  seems  intending  to  trundle  with  a  short  stick  which  he  holds  in  his 
other  hand.  In  one  place  is  an  old  woman  crouching  down,  and  apparently 
unloading  a  sack,  which  is  placed  before  her;  and  in  another  is  a  large  canoe 
with  horses  and  people  in  it,  and  one  man  falling  overboard.  The  head- 
dresses worn  by  these  figures  are  quite  different  from  any  others  mentioned, 
and  the  men  have  their  ears  pierced,  and  small  round  plates  attached  to  them. 
The  colors  employed  are  green,  yellow,  red,  blue,  and 
reddish-brown  —  the  last  invariably  used  to  represent 
the  human  flesh,  the  tint  in  the  female  figures  being  a 
shade  lighter  than  that  used  for  the  male. 

Five  hundred  feet  south-east  of  the  last-described 
building  is  another,  on  an  artificial  mound  rising  from 
the  level  plain  to  a  height  of  seventy-five  feet,  and 
ascended  on  two  sides  by  flights  of  steps,  the  balus- 
trades to  which  have  been  formed  by  colossal  serpents. 
The  building  is  not  large,  but  highly  ornamented,  and 
commands  a  view  of  the  whole  surrounding  plain.  On 
the  sides  of  one  of  the  doorways  are  sculptured  figures, 
much  damaged ;  but  the  head  of  one,  whch  is  well 
preserved,  shows  the  ears  and  nose  pierced  and  deco- 
rated with  rings.  Facing  the  north  is  a  large  doorway 
supported  by  columns,  the  pedestals  of  which  are  richly 
sculptured,  and  leading  into  a  chamber  of  uncommonly 
lofty  proportions.  The  roof  of  this  chamber  is  sup- 
ported by  square  pillars,  also  richly  sculptured,  but  much  dilapidated. 

At  Kabah,  likewise  in  Yucatan,  the  ruins  present  the  same  character  as 
those  already  described — namely,  broad  and  noble  terraces,  and  lofty  pyra- 
midal structures,  supporting  buildings  of  vast  extent,  and  loaded  externally 
with  a  profusion  of  ornaments.  The  apartments  within  are  arched,  as  ai 
Uxmal  and  Palenque ;  and  though  more  ornamented  than  those  in  the  formei 


494  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.. 

city,  are  less  elaborately  so  than  in  the  latter.  The  sculptured  bas-reliefs  on 
the  jambs  of  a  doorway  in  one  of  the  buildings,  representing  one  man  in  a 
kneeling  position,  and  another  man  standing  before  him  (see  engraving), 
are  very  important,  on  account  of  the  kneeling  figure  holding  in  his  hand  a 
weapon  answering  to  the  description  given  by  Spanish  historians  of  the  swords 
of  the  Indians  at  the  time  of  the  discovery  of  Columbus  :  '  Swords  made  of 
wood,  having  a  gutter  in  the  forepart,  in  which  were  sharp-edged  flints, 
strongly  fixed  with  a  sort  of  bitumen  and  thread.' 

In  the  description  of  the  cities  here  more  particularly  mentioned  are  com- 
prised the  main  features  which  characterize  the  buildings  on  the  different 
sites  explored.  Among  the  individual  peculiarities  presented  by  some  of  the 
ruins,  the  buildings  called  Casas  Cerradas,  or  Closed  Houses,  deserve 
mention.  These  are  buildings  externally  and  internally  in  every  respect 
resembling  the  great  majority  of  those  described,  with  the  usual  distribution 
of  doorways,  corridors,  and  inner-chambers,  all  completely  finished,  and 
then,  apparently  before  the  roof  was  closed  in,  having  been  filled  up  with 
solid  masses  of  stone  and  mortar,  the  doonvays  being  at  the  same  time 
carefully  walled  up.  The  meaning  of  these  buildings,  like  so  many  of  the 
other  arrangements  in  these  extraordinary  cities,  remains  a  profound  mystery. 

On  the  first  survey  of  these  wonderful  cities  of  palaces,  buried  in  the 
bosom  of  the  vast  forests  of  an  uncultivated  region,  the  imagination,  struck 
by  the  presence  of  so  much  grandeur  and  magnificence,  and  the  total  absence 
of  all  the  petty  details  connected  with  the  daily  necessities  and  the  daily  cares 
of  human  life,  conjures  up  to  itself  a  race  of  beings  exempt  from  these  neces- 
sities and  these  cares,  which' has  dwelt  here  in  happiness  and  in  splendor. 
But  sober  reason  soon  re-asserts  its  sway,  and  bids  us  believe  that  when  we  find 
traces  of  human  habitations,  there  also,  though  hidden,  we  shall  find  indica- 
tions of  those  conditions  without  which  human  nature  cannot  exist.  Thus, 
though  the  sites  of  these  cities,  especially  in  Yucatan,  seem  selected  with  an 
entire  disregard  of  that  which  is  generally  considered  the  first  of  conditions 
for  the  foundation  of  a  city — namely,  a  natural  supply  of  water — we  find, 
upon  nearer  investigation,  that  this  seeming  indifference  with  regard  to  the 
absence  of  one  of  the  first  necessaries  of  life  must  have  been  owing  to  the 
consciousness  possessed  by  those  builders  of  their  capability  of  supplying  by 
art  the  deficiencies  of  nature.  The  wonderful  perseverance  and  industry  of 
this  race  seem  to  have  recoiled  before  no  difficulties  :  the  same  hands  that 
raised  the  immense  artificial  mounds  to  bear  aloft  their  stately  palaces  and 
temples,  were  ready  to  provide  artificial  means  to  supply  large  populations 
with  water.  The  ponds  and  wells  which  have  been  found  buried  in  the 
depths  of  the  forest  surrounding  the  ruined  cities,  and  which  were  until  very 
lately  believed  by  the  inhabitants  to  be  natural  depressions  of  the  soil,  have 
now  been  ascertained  to  be  lined  with  masonry ;  and  they  form  a  very  inter- 
esting portion  of  the  ancient  w  orks  of  the  aborigines.  Several  of  these  ponds 
or  Aguadas,  as  they  are  called  by  the  natives  of  Spanish  descent — situated 
on  the  property  of  a  gentleman  more  observant  than  the  generality  of  his 
countrymen,  were  entirely  dried  up  by  the  heats  of  the  summer  of  1835. 
The  proprietor,  placing  confidence  in  tlv:  current  traditions  that  they  were 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  495 

artificial  contrivances  and  the  work  of  the  Antiguos,  or  Ancients,  as  the 
Indians  denominate  the  authors  of  the  many  ancient  works  with  which 
their  country  abounds,  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  to  make  a  careful 
examination  of  the  ponds,  and  was  satisfied  that  on  this  point  tradition  was 
correct.  In  1836  the  pond  was  cleared  of  mud,  and  an  artificial  bottom 
disclosed,  consisting  of  large  flat  stones,  placed  in  several  layers,  the  inter- 
stices being  carefully  filled  with  a  reddish-brown  clay.  In  the  middle  of  the 
basin,  sunk  from  the  level  of  this  paved  foundation,  were  four  wells  eight 
yards  deep,  and  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  lined  with  stone,  but  at  the  time 
of  which  we  speak  filled  with  mud.  Beside  these,  there  were  around  the 
margin  of  the  pond  upward  of  four  hundred  pits  into  which  the  water  had 
filtered,  and  which,  together  with  the  wells,  were  intended  to  furnish  a  supply 
of  water  during  the  dry  season  of  the  year,  when  the  upper  basin,  which 
depended  upon  the  floods  of  the  rainy  season,  should  be  empty.  On  another 
estate,  within  a  short  distance  of  the  one  we  have  just  mentioned,  another 
aguada  of  a  still  more  extraordinary  character  has  been  cleansed  and  re- 
stored to  its  original  uses.  When  the  mud,  which  covered  the  bottom  to  a 
depth  of  several  feet,  was  cleared  away,  the  upper  basin  was  found  to  contain 
upward  of  forty  wells,  differing  in  character  and  construction,  and  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  in  depth.  These  ingenious  contrivances  of  the 
aborigines,  to  supply  the  natural  deficiencies  of  the  land,  have  proved  an 
immense  boon  to  their  degenerate  descendants  and  their  Spanish  masters  ; 
for  in  a  country  almost  destitute  of  water-courses  as  Yucatan,  these  aguadas 
were  of  very  great  importance,  even  while  their  precise  character  was  still 
unknown. 

Beside  these  artificial  reservoirs,  which,  as  has  been  said,  are  scattered  all 
over  the  face  of  the  country,  there  are  in  Yucatan  other  wells  of  a  most 
extraordinary  character,  of  which  the  present  inhabitants  avail  themselves, 
and  which,  from  various  indications,  it  is  evident  have  also  been  known  and 
resorted  to  by  the  ancient  populations.  One  of  these,  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  village  of  Bolanchen,  is  most  remarkable,  and  at  the  same  time  com- 
prises the  leading  features  of  all.  The  descent  to  this  well,  or  these  wells—- 
for  there  are  seven  distinct  basins  containing  water — is  through  the  mouth 
of  a  rocky  cavern,  and  continues  through  the  bowels  of  the  earth  down  to  a 
perpendicular  depth  of  450  feet,  but  by  a  pathway  in  the  rock  1400  feet  in 
length,  and  at  times  so  precipitous,  as  to  necessitate  the  use  of  ladders  varying 
from  twenty  to  eighty  feet  in  length.  Of  these  ladders,  which  are  of  a  most 
primitive  description — being  made  of  rough  rounds  of  wood  bound  together 
with  osiers — there  are  no  less  than  seven  to  be  descended  and  ascended  by 
the  Indians,  who,  from  these  mysterious  sources,  carry  up  on  their  backs 
duiing  four  months  of  each  year,  the  full  supply  of  water  necessary  for  the 
consumption  of  the  population  of  the  village,  amounting  to  7000  souls.  In 
other  parts  of  the  country  the  Indians,  in  their  descent  and  ascent  from  well? 
of  a  similar  nature,  have  to  pass  through  passages  in  the  rock  so  low,  as  to 
oblige  them  to  crawl  on  hands  and  feet;  on  which  occasion  the  bands  passed 
round  their  foreheads,  and  to  which  the  gourds  containing  the  water  are 
attached,  are  lengthened  so  as  to  allow  the  latter  to  hang  below  their  hips,  ir 


496  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

order  that  they  may  not  protrude  beyond  the  height  of  the  body  in  thia 
crouching  attitude.  The  unmurmuring  cheerfulness  with  which  this  patient 
race  pursue  their  daily  task,  apparently  as  unconscious  of  its  laboriousness  as 
of  its  dangers,  affords  a  little  insight  into  the  qualities  which  render  possible 
the  construction  of  such  works  of  labor  as  those  with  which  the  country  is 
covered;  and  it  further  leads  to  the  conclusion — which  indeed  the  history  of 
Mexico  corroborates — that  the  monuments  of  the  ancient  civilization  of 
America,  like  those  of  the  Old  World,  have  been  the  work  of  slaves,  toiling 
like  machines,  under  the  direction  of  masters  who  allowed  them  no  share  in 
the  intellectual  light  which  gave  to  themselves  the  power,  and  taught  them 
the  means,  of  executing  such  stupendous  undertakings. 

In  addition  to  the  ingenious  cisterns  above  described,  there  are  among  the 
ruins  but  one  kind  of  structures  which  may  be  supposed  to  have  served  for 
useful  purposes.  These  are  subterraneous  chambers  scattered  over  the  whole 
area  inclosed  within  the  walls  of  the  cities,  and  about  five  yards  or  a  little 
more  in  diameter,  with  domelike  ceilings,  and  lined  throughout  with  cement. 
Access  to  them  is  gained  by  circular  holes  in  the  ground,  so  small,  that  a 
man  can  with  difficulty  introduce  his  body.  As  many  as  have  been  explored 
have  been  found  quite  empty,  with  the  exception  of  one,  in  which  was  found 
a  small  earthenware  vessel.  At  first,  it  was  suggested  that  these  chambers 
might  have  been  water-cisterns,  but  nearer  examination  proved  them  not  to 
be  fit  for  this  purpose ;  and  subsequently  a  more  probable  opinion  has  been 
adopted — namely,  that  they  have  served  as  depositaries  for  the  maize  or 
Indian  corn,  which  was  in  universal  use  among  the  natives  of  both  the 
American  continents  at  the  period  of  their  discovery  by  the  Europeans. 
Beyond  these,  the  ruins  afford  no  traces  of  the  life  and  habits  of  their  former 
occupants.  There  is,  however,  one  mysterious  feature  connected  with  these 
buildings,  and  observed  even  in  those  most  distant  from  each  other,  which  is 
of  the  utmost  importance,  not  only  as  further  proving  the  similarity  of 
thought  and  feeling,  because  of  sign  and  symbol  existing  between  their  re- 
spective populations,  but  still  more  as  affording  a  connecting  link  between 
these  populations  and  some  of  the  tribes  which  to  this  day  inhabit  the  North 
American  continent.  We  allude  to  the  print  of  a  red  hand,  which  has  been 
found  on  the  walls  of  the  edifices  in  almost  all  the  cities  explored.  The  sign 
of  the  hand,  we  are  told,  is  not  painted,  but  seems  literally  printed  upon  the 
stones  by  the  pressure  of  the  living  hand  while  moist  with  the  paint,  as  every 
minute  line  and  seam  of  the  palm  is  visible.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that 
this  same  sign  constantly  recurs  on  the  skins  of  animals  purchased  from  the 
Indian  hunters  on  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  it  is  indeed  said  to  be  in  com- 
mon use  among  the  tribes  in  the  north.  According  to  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  a 
gentleman  who  has  devoted  much  attention  to  the  habits  and  customs  of  the 
Indians,  and  quoted  by  Mr.  Stephens,  the  figure  of  the  human  hand  is  used 
by  the  North  American  Indians  to  denote  supplication  to  the  Great  Spirit,  and 
it  stands  in  their  system  of  picture-writing  as  the  symbol  of  strength,  power, 
or  mastery,  thus  derived. 

By  analogies  such  as  the  above  must  the  history  of  the  deserted  cities  and 
their  inhabitants  br  traced,  for  their  walls  and  sculptures  are  the  only  records 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  497 

of  them  extant.  Among  those  that  we  have  mentioned,  the  name  of  Copan, 
indeed,  holds  a  place  in  the  history  of  the  Spanish  conquest,  a  city  of  this 
name  being  mentioned  as  having  revolted  against  the  Spaniards  in  1530,  and 
as  having  bravely  resisted  the  attacks  of  the  Spanish  soldiers  sent  to  bring  it 
back  to  subjection.  But  the  general  belief  is,  that  these  ruins  are  of  a  date 
much  anterior  to  this  period;  and  there  are  points  in  the  Spanish  narrative  of 
the  reduction  of  Copan  which  could  not  be  applied  to  a  city  surrounded  by 
such  strong  walls  as  the  one  whose  ruins  we  have  surveyed.  Of  the  ruini 
now  designated  by  the  appellation  of  Palenque,  not  even  the  name  is  known, 
as  has  been  seen,  and  no  tradition  hovers  round  the  spot  to  tell  of  its  past 
glory :  the  tale  is  left  to  its  sculptured  walls,  and  even  these  will  not  long 
survive  to  tell  it.  Of  Uxmal  the  same  may  be  said.  The  name  of  these 
ruins  is  derived  from  that  of  the  estate  on  which  they  stand;  in  the  oldest 
deed  belonging  to  the  family  who  owns  this  property,  and  which  goes  back 
140  years,  they  are  referred  to  as  Las  Casas  di  Piedras,  the  common  appella- 
tion for  the  ruined  structures  throughout  the  country.  Of  the  past  existence 
of  Kabah  not  a  record  or  a  tradition  is  extant.  These  remains  lie  upon  the 
common  lands  of  the  village  of  Nohcacab,  and  their  very  presence  was  un- 
known until  the  opening  of  a  road  to  Bolanchen  disclosed  them  in  the  bosom 
of  the  wood.  The  ruins  of  Chichen,  being  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
great  road  which  leads  to  Valladolid,  one  of  the  principal  modern  cities  of 
Yucatan,  and  full  in  sight  of  all  passers-by,  are,  in  consequence,  more  gene- 
rally known  to  the  people  of  the  country,  and  the  name  of  this  city  is  recorded 
in  history  as  that  of  the  first  place  in  the  interior  where  the  Spaniards  halted. 
Whether  the  town  was  then  inhabited,  and  in  the  full  blaze  of  that  splendor 
which  the  magnificent  remains  indicate,  or  whether  it  were  already  then 
deserted,  is,  however,  unsettled,  for  the  Spanish  chronicler  merely  mentions 
the  locality  as  a  favorable  and  strong  position  for  defense  against  the  Indians, 
on  account  of  the  great  buildings  that  were  there.  However  this  may  be, 
the  reader  has  no  doubt  been  struck  with  the  general  resemblance  of  the 
buildings  and  other  monuments  which  we  have  been  describing  to  those  of 
Mexico  on  the  arrival  of  Cortez.  The  palace  of  Palenque,  or  the  house  of 
the  Nuns  at  Uxmal,  at  once  familiarize  us  with  the  edifice  in  which  he  and 
his  companions  were  lodged  by  Montezuma;  and  the  vast  pyramidal  structures 
call  to  mind  the  great  Teocalli,  which  was  the  first  victim  of  the  fanatic  fury 
of  the  invaders.  The  total  absence  of  every  vestige  of  the  habitations  of  the 
humbler  classes  of  the  community  also  leads  to  the  conclusion  that  the  re- 
semblance of  these  cities  to  those  of  Mexico  does  not  stop  here,  but  that, 
here  as  there,  the  houses  of  the  people  must  have  been  of  much  frailer 
materials  than  those  of  their  rulers,  whether  these  were  kings,  nobles,  or 
priests,  and  could  not  long  survive  their  abandonment.  Indeed  the  Spanish 
historian  Herrera,  who,  in  describing  Yucatan,  says,  'there  were  so  many 
and  such  stately  stone  buildings  that  it  was  amazing,'  adds — 'their  houses 
(dwelling-houses)  were  all  of  timber,  and  thatched.'  But  why  were  these 
cities  abandoned  ?  Here  the  mystery  again  thickens,  and  here  the  analogy 
to  Mexico  seems  no  longer  to  hold  good.  The  subjugation  of  Yucatan  was 
thrown  so  much  into  the  shade  by  the  more  splendid  achievements  of  the 
32 


498  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

conquests  of  Mexico  and  Peru,  which,  though  later  known,  were  more 
speedily  brought  under  the  Spanish  yoke,  that  the  glowing  descriptions  which 
reached  Spain  from  those  countries  were  not  followed  by  similar  ones  from 
Yucatan;  nor  are  there  any  records  of  the  Spaniards  having  in  this  country, 
as  in  the  two  former,  waged  a  war  of  destruction  against  the  national  monu- 
ments of  the  natives.  To  this  day  the  Spanish  population  in  the  peninsula  is 
far  from  numerous,  and  is  gathered  in  a  few  large  towns ;  while  the  Indians 
generally  dwell  in  villages  under  the  guidance  of  a  Roman  Catholic  priest,  or 
settle  themselves  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  haciendas  or  estates  which 
dot  the  country,  and  give  their  services  to  the  proprietor  in  return  for  the 
permission  to  draw  water  from  the  well  or  cistern  of  his  establishment.  Even 
the  face  of  the  country  seems  to  be  pretty  much  the  same  as  it  was  at  the 
period  of  the  Conquest.  The  great  dearth  of  springs  and  rivers  renders  it 
an  qualified  for  cultivation,  and  the  immense  forests  of  logwood  continue  to 
constitute  its  greatest  riches.  Therefore,  although  it  must  be  admitted  that 
the  Spaniards,  on  their  arrival,  found  the  Indians  in  possession  of  towns,  which 
from  the  incidental  mention  of  them  that  occurs  in  the  chronicles  of  the 
period,  seem  to  have  borne  very  much  the  same  character  as  those  we  have 
been  surveying,  yet  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how,  within  little  more  than  two 
centuries  (we  refer  to  the  date  of  the  discovery  of  the  ruins  of  Palenque), 
these  cities  came  to  be  so  completely  abandoned  and  forgotten,  and  that  by  a 
race  remarkable  for  the  great  tenacity  with  which  it  clings  to  its  old  customs 
and  institutions.  In  Mexico,  where  every  vestige  of  their  ancient  faith  and 
policy  was  systematically  eradicated,  and  where  the  native  population  of 
Spanish  descent  is  comparatively  very  numerous,  the  Indians  have,  neverthe- 
less, retained  so  strong  a  traditional  feeling  of  reverence  for  their  ancient 
faith,  that  when  two  idols  were  accidentally  disinterred  in  the  city  of  Mexico 
a  few  years  ago,  they  secretly,  in  the  night,  crowned  these  objects  of  their 
former  adoration  with  wreaths  of  flowers ;  but  in  Yucatan  and  other  districts, 
they  live  within  a  few  miles,  nay,  in  some  cases  a  few  steps,  of  the  remains 
of  their  gorgeous  temples,  and  know  not  of  their  existence ;  and  when  the 
ruins  are  pointed  out  to  them,  and  they  are  asked  who  were  the  builders, 
their  only  answer  is  an  indifferent  '  Who  knows?' 

Whoever  may  have  been  the  builders  of  the  cities  of  Central  America, 
one  thing  is  established  by  their  discovery — namely,  that  the  civilization  which 
once  embellished  these  regions  must  have  sprung  from  the  same  source  as 
that  of  Mexico,  though  whether  it  was  more  ancient  or  more  modern,  must, 
notwithstanding  all  the  speculation  and  ingenuity  which  has  been  expended 
on  these  subjects,  still  remain  unsettled.  That  some  of  the  cities,  at  all 
events,  have  been  ruined  and  abandoned  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  conquest, 
there  are  incidents  in  the  history  of  that  period  that  lead  us  to  believe.  In 
the  narrative  of  his  travels  in  these- regions,  Mr.  Stephens  mentions,  at  a  dis- 
t  tance  of  ten  leagues  from  Palenque,  a  village  called  Las  Tres  Cruces,  which, 
tradition  says,  derived  its  name  from  three  crosses  that  Cortez  placed  there 
when  on  his  way  from  Mexico  to  Honduras ;  and  justly  remarks,  that  it  is  not 
nrobable  that  one  whose  aim  was  conquest  and  plunder,  should  have  passed 
bv  a  city  of  such  importance  as  Palenque  must  have  been  when  in  the  full 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  499 

meridian  of  its  glory,  without  being  attracted  by  its  fame ;  nor  is  it  probable 
that  this  fame  should  not  have  reached  his  ears,  had  the  city  not  been  already 
then,  as  now — a  city  of  the  wilderness,  desolate  and  forgotten.  But  if  ruins 
such  as  these,  so  ancient  as  to  have  been  forgotten,  and  their  very  sites 
unknown,  existed  at  the  period  of  the  Conquest,  the  civilization  of  these 
countries  could  not  have  been  of  recent  date ;  for  there  is  no  reason  to  believe 
that  cities  of  palaces,  the  foundations  of  which  were  artificial  mountains, 
whose  construction  required  an  amount  of  toil  almost  inconceivable,  and  the 
decoration  of  which  must  likewise  have  cost  years  of  labor,  have  sprung  up 
at  the  wave  of  an  enchanter's  wand,  and  been  abandoned  from  such  caprice 
as  makes  a  child  weary  of  its  new  toy.  To  be  utterly  unknown,  the  ruins 
must  have  been  out  of  sight ;  and  to  be  out  of  sight,  forests  of  slow  growth 
must  have  had  time  to  close  their  dark  curtain  around  them.  But  whence, 
then,  came  this  ancient  race  of  city-builders ;  where  was  the  cradle  of  its 
civilization?  This  question  has  led  to  speculations,  to  enumerate  which 
would  far  surpass  our  bounds,  and  would  also  be  beside  our  purpose ;  suffice 
it  to  say,  that  the  study  of  American  monuments  and  traditions,  and  the 
analogies  which  have  been  descried  in  them  to  those  of  the  most  ancient 
people  of  the  Old  World,  have  been  thought  to  prove  the  descent  of 
the  Red  men  of  America  from  the  Phoenicians,  the  Carthaginians,  the 
Hebrews,  the  Egyptians,  the  Hindoos,  Chinese,  Tartars,  Malays,  and 
Polynesians. 

Without  attempting  to  go  as  far  back  as  the  first  settlement  of  the  red  race 
on  the  continent  of  America,  and  to  enter  the  regions  of  pure  speculation,  we 
may,  however,  trace  its  civilization  back  at  least  a  thousand  years  before  the 
Conquest.  The  Mexicans,  it  will  be  remembered,  admitted  that  in  their 
pyramidal  structures  they  had  imitated  the  earlier  works  of  the  Toltecs.  This 
race  is  the  earliest  of  which  any  knowledge  can  be  derived  from  the  tradi- 
tions and  picture-writings  of  the  Mexicans.  According  to  these,  this  people, 
constituting  a  powerful  nation,  arrived  from  a  country  somewhere  to  the 
north-east  of  Mexico,  whence  they  emigrated,  for  some  unknown  cause,  at 
the  commencement  of  the  sixth  century  of  our  era;  and  after  about  104 
years'  wandering  through  the  intervening  countries,  made  an  irruption  upon 
the  great  table -land  and  valley  of  Mexico,  territories  bearing  in  the  language 
of  the  country  the  name  of  Anahuac.  Having  established  an  empire  under  a 
monarchical  form  of  government,  they  ruled  the  country  during  four  centuries, 
built  large  cities,  and  spread  civilization  around  them.  After  the  expiration 
of  this  period,  they  were  smitten  by  pestilence  and  famine,  their  numbers 
dwindled,  some  portions  of  the  population  migrated  southward  toward 
Yucatan  and  Guatemala;  and  in  Anahuac  they  were  superseded  in  power 
by  other  tribes  coming  from  the  same  direction  as  they,  and  of  whom 
the  Aztecs  or  Mexicans  of  the  time  of  the  Spanish  conquest  were  the  last 
Each  of  these  tribes,  in  its  turn,  seems  to  have  adopted  as  much  of  the  civili- 
zation of  the  Toltecs  as  was  extant  on  its  arrival ;  and  as  the  remains  in 
Mexico,  though  evidently  of  different  dates,  do  not  present  characteristics 
of  any  distinct  civilization,  it  is  probable  that  the  archetype,  of  which  the 
remains  throughout  the  whole  of  the  southern  part  of  North  America  are  but 


500  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

slight  modifications,  has  been  that  of  the  Toltecs,  or  of  the  people  from  whom 
they  had  borrowed  it;  that  it  is  their  architecture,  their  astronomical  divison 
of  time,  their  mythology,  and  their  religious  observances  and  customs,  which 
prevailed  throughout  these  regions.  It  cannot,  however,  be  maintained  with 
any  certainty,  notwithstanding  the  records  of  the  Toltec  migration  from  the 
north-west,  that  the  territories  situated  in  that  direction  were  the  first  seat 
of  population  and  civilization  en  the  American  continent.  There  is,  on  the 
contrary,  reason  to  believe  that  the  population  and  civilization  of  Yucatan, 
Guatemala,  and  Chiapas,  had  been  anterior  to  those  of  Mexico;  and  that 
thence  they  have  been  diffused  through  the  north,  whence  the  populations 
have  again  returned  southward  by  one  of  those  refluxes  which  are  common 
in  the  early  history  of  nations. 

That  civilization  has  at  one  period  extended  far  to  the  north-east  of  Mexico 
into  the  territories  which,  at  the  period  of  the  discovery  of  America  by  Co- 
lumbus, were  inhabited  by  rude  and  savage  tribes,  modern  research  has 
sufficiently  established.  From  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  southern  shores  of 
the  great  lakes  in  the  United  States,  earthworks  and  fortifications  have  been 
traced  entirely  distinct  from  the  works  of  the  Indians,  giving  evidence  of  a 
state  of  civilization  greatly  surpassing  theirs,  yet  proving  much  affinity 
between  the  two,  and  at  the  same  time  exhibiting  features  that  show  them  to 
be  links  of  the  great  chain  which  extends  southward  also.  In  the  states 
bordering  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  the  Teocalli-shaped  structures,  of  large 
dimensions,  continue  to  form  the  leading  feature.  Further  northward,  how- 
ever, in  the  region  watered  by  the  Ohio  and  its  tributaries,  though  the  ancient 
earthworks  are  still  of  considerable  magnitude,  and  in  numerous  instances 
of  the  pyramidal  form,  terraced,  and  with  a  graded  ascent  to  the  top,  yet  a 
divergence  from  the  system  pursued  in  Mexico  is  visible  in  the  greater  preva- 
lence of  the  conical-formed  mound,  as  also  in  the  existence  of  numerous 
inclosures  formed  by  embankments  of  earth  and  stone.  By  their  number, 
the  regularity  of  their  form,  and  the  vastness  of  their  dimensions,  these  em- 
bankments give  an  imposing  idea  of  the  number  and  capabilities  of  the 
people  who  raised  them.  In  the  State  of  Ohio  alone,  the  number  of  tumuli 
raised  by  the  hand  of  man  is  estimated  at  no  less  than  10,000,  and  the  in- 
closures are  rated  at  from  between  1000  to  1500.  Some  of  these  are  of 
course  of  minor  dimensions,  while  others  are  of  extraordinary  magnitude. 
Inclosures  of  100  or  500  acres  are  said  not  to  be  infrequent,  and  works  are 
occasionally  found  inclosing  as  many  as  400  acres.  On  the  Missouri,  indeed, 
there  is  an  inclosure  embracing  an  area  of  600  acres,  while  embankments 
varying  in  height  from  five  to  thirty  feet,  and  inclosing  areas  of  from  one  to 
fifty  acres,  are  of  common  occurrence.  However,  the  amount  of  labor  ex- 
pended on  the  works  cannot  always,  we  are  told,  be  calculated  according  to  the 
extent  of  the  area  inclosed ;  for  a  fortified  hill  in  Highland  county,  Ohio,  has 
one  mile  and  five-eighths  of  heavy  embankments,  which  inclose  an  area  of  no 
more  than  forty  acres.  On  the  Little  Miami  river  in  Warren  county,  in  the 
same  state,  are  similar  works,  presenting  upward  of  four  miles  of  embankment, 
inclosing  little  more  than  a  hundred  acres ;  and  a  group  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Scioto  present  an  aggregate  of  about  twenty  miles  of  embankment,  while  the 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  501 

extent  of  the  space  inclosed  hardly  amounts  to  two  hundred  acies.  The 
mounds  are  likewise  of  various  dimensions,  some  being  only  a  few  yards  in 
diameter,  and  a  few  feet  in  height;  while  others — as,  for  instance,  one  at  the 
mouth  of  Grave  creek,  Virginia;  another  at  Miamisburg,  Ohio;  and  the  trun- 
cated pyramid  at  Cahokia,  Illinois — have  respectively  a  perpendicular  altitude 
of  seventy,  sixty-eight,  and  ninety  feet,  and  measure  in  circumference  at  the 
base,  respectively,  1000,  852  and  2000  feet.  The  area  on  the  truncated  sum- 
mit of  the  latter  measures  seven  acres,  and  that  of  Miamisburg  is  calculated 
to  contain  311,353  cubic  feet.  At  Selzerstown,  Mississippi,  there  is  another 
great  mound,  said  to  cover  six  acres  of  ground.  With  regard  to  these 
gigantic  structures,  an  American  writer  observes,  'We  have  seen  mounds 
which  would  require  the  labor  of  a  thousand  men  employed  on  our  canals, 
with  all  their  mechanical  aids  and  the  improved  implements  of  their  labor  for 
months.  We  have  more  than  once  hesitated  in  view  of  these  prodigious 
mounds  whether  it  were  not  really  a  natural  hill.  But  they  are  uniformly 
so  placed  in  reference  to  the  adjacent  country,  and  their  conformation  is 
so  unique  and  similar,  that  no  eye  hesitates  long  in  referring  them  to  the 
class  of  artificial  erections.'  The  ordinary  dimensions  of  the  mounds  are, 
however,  considerably  inferior  to  those  here  mentioned,  and  generally  range 
from  six  to  thirty  feet  in  perpendicular  height  by  forty  to  a  hundred  in  diame- 
ter at  the  base. 

In  accordance  with  their  different  characters,  these  earth  and  stone-works 
have,  by  scientific  inquirers,  been  classed  under  several  heads — namely,  la- 
closures  for  Defense ;  Sacred  and  Miscellaneous  Inclosures ;  Mounds  of  Sac- 
rifice, Temple  Mounds,  Sepulchral  Mounds,  etc.,  which  at  once  indicate  the 
various  purposes  for  which  they  are  supposed  to  have  served,  partly  from 
their  resemblance  to  those  of  Mexico,  the  purposes  of  which  are  known,  and 
partly  from  their  unmistakable  characteristics.  The  works,  the  features  of 
which  prove  beyond  a  doubt  that  they  must  have  been  constructed  for 
defense,  usually  occupy  strong  natural  positions,  which  give  evidence  of 
having  been  selected  with  profound  skill  and  great  care.  They  are  all  con- 
tiguous to  water,  generally  on  the  steep  banks  of  a  stream,  by  which  one  side 
of  the  inclosed  area  is  defended,  and  the  vicinity  of  higher  lands  from  which 
they  might  be  commanded  has  everywhere  been  avoided.  While  the  ap- 
proaches, in  general,  are  made  as  difficult  as  possible,  access  to  the  fortified 
position  is,  on  one  or  two  points,  allowed  to  be  comparatively  easy ;  and  for 
the  protection  of  these  points  the  skill  of  the  builders  has  been  taxed  to  the 
utmost.  A  watch-tower  or  alarm-post,  in  the  guise  of  a  mound,  is  generally 
found  close  to  them ;  and  they  are  defended  by  two,  or  sometimes  more, 
overlapping  or  concentric  walls.  In  addition  to  the  skill  evinced  in  the  choice 
of  position,  we  must  further  remark  the  industry  that  has  reared  the  works, 
and  the  strong  conviction  of  their  necessity  which  must  have  been  entertained, 
as  the  stones  which,  together  with  earth,  form  the  component  parts  of  the 
walls,  are  often  foreign  to  the  locality,  and  must  have  been  brought  from  a 
considerable  distance.  In  a  large  proportion  of  the  works  the  square  and 
the  circle,  sepaiate  or  in  combination,  very  frequently  occur;  and  it  has  been 
ascertained  by  careful  admeasurement  that  in  almost  every  case  where  they 


502  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

do  occur,  and  even  in  those  cases  where  the  embankments  and  circumvalla- 
tions  are  as  much  as  a  mile  and  upward  in  extent,  the  circles  are  perfect 
circles,  and  the  rectangular  works  perfect  squares,  circumstances  which  prove 
that  the  builders  must  have  proceeded  on  scientific  principles.  It  has  also 
been  proved  that  wherever  the  locality  has  been  deficient  in  a  natural  supply 
of  water,  or  the  position  of  the  works  has  rendered  access  to  this  difficult, 
tr.  e  deficiency  has  been  rectified  by  the  establishment  of  artificial  reservoirs 
within  the  fortifications. 

Those  inclosures  which,  from  their  peculiarities  and  position,  are  deemed 
not  to  have  been  intended  for  defense,  and  are  consequently  supposed  to 
have  constituted  that  sacred   line  which,  among   all   primitive   people,  has 
marked  the  boundary  of  the  space  consecrated  to  their  religious  worship,  are 
frequently  of  very  considerable  extent.     This  circumstance  has  induced  the 
belief  that  they  have  not  only  inclosed  that  which  has  strictly  been  considered 
the  Temple,  but  that  they  have  embraced  likewise  some  sacred  grove,  as 
was  the  case  among  the  ancient  Britons  and  other  nations  of  the  Old  World ; 
or,  what  is  more  probable,  the  dwellings  of  the  priesthood,  as  was  the  case  in 
Mexico  and  Peru.     The  correctness  of  applying  a  sacred  character  to  these 
inclosures  is  proved  by  the  numerous  earthen  altars  which  have  been  found 
in  the  inclosed  areas,  as  also  by  the  frequent  recurrence  of  pyramidal  struc- 
tures within  their  precincts,  which  fully  correspond  to  those  of  Mexico  and 
Central  America,  except  that  they  are  not  constructed  with  stone,  and  that, 
instead  of  being  ascended  by  broad  flights  of  steps,  their  summits  are  reached 
by  graded  avenues  or  spiral  pathways.     Upon  the  summits  there  are  indeed 
no  vestiges  of  buildings  or  mural  remains ;  but  as  the  builders  had  probably 
either  declined  from,  or  not  attained  to,  the  same  degree  of  civilization  as  the 
constructors  of  the  southern  cities,  their  edifices  may  have  been  of  wood,  and 
consequently  more  perishable.     In  the  Southern  United  States,  from  Florida 
to  Texas,  the  remains,  as  has  been  stated,  approach  nearest  to  those  of  Mexico 
and  Central  America ;  the  mounds  are  pyramidal  in  form,  and  their  relative 
positions  seem  to  imply  a  regular  system  :  broad  terraces  of  various  heights, 
elevated  causeways,  and  long  avenues,  are  of  frequent  occurrence  ;  but  in- 
closures, and  particularly  those  of  a  military  character,  are  rare.     In  these 
states,   however,  much   remains   to  be   learned   relative   to  the   aboriginal 
remains,  which  are  only  now  being  scientifically  and  systematically  examined. 
With  reference  to  all  these  works  the  same  remark  will  hold  good,  that 
though  tribes  of  half-savage  Indians  in  different  parts  of  the  country  have 
erected  fortifications,  in  many  respects  evincing  a  certain  degree  of  affinity  to 
the  ancient  works  alluded  to,  they  are  invariably  greatly  inferior  to  these  ; 
and  though  the  Indians  are   sometimes    found  occupying   the  sites  of  the 
various  non-military  structures,  and  apparently  putting  them  to  uses  in  a  great 
measure  similar  to  those  for  which  they  are  supposed  to  have  been  originally 
intended,  yet,  independently  of  all  other  indications,  the  tribes  in  these  cases 
always  confess  that  they  are  availing  themselves  of  the  works  of  predecessors 
of  a  much  anterior  date — predecessors  to  whom,  in  their  traditions,  they 
always  assign  great  superiority  over  themselves.     The  strongest  and  most 
indisputable  evideia-<pt  x  %vor  of  the  antiquity  of  these  works  of  man  is,  how. 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA  503 

ever,  afforded  by  the  monuments  which  nature  has  raised  on  their  ruins.  In 
numerous  cases  where  the  forest-trees,  which  now  cover  the  great  majority 
of  these  mounds  and  embankments,  have  been  examined,  annual  rings, 
denoting  a  growth  of  from  600  to  800  years,  have  been  counted  on  their 
trunks.  But  even  these  800  years  do  not  bring  us  near  to  the  date  of  the 
erection  of  the  works ;  for  it  has  been  observed  by  those  who  have  given 
attention  to  these  matters,  that  a  homogeneity  of  character  is  peculiar  to  tha 
first  growth  of  trees  on  lands  once  cleared  and  then  abandoned  to  nature, 
whereas  the  sites  of  the  ancient  works  which  we  have  been  describing,  present 
the  same  appearance  as  the  circumjacent  forests,  being  covered  with  the  same 
beautiful  variety  of  trees.  In  a  discourse  on  the  aborigines  of  the  Ohio,  the 
late  President  Harrison,  after  having  stated  that  upon  the  first  clearing  of 
the  forest,  certain  trees  of  strong  and  rapid  growth,  spring  up  in  such  profu- 
sion, as  entirely  to  smother  the  others  of  more  weakly  nature  which  attempt 
to  grow  in  their  shade,  expresses  himself  as  follows  : — '  This  state  of  things 
will  not,  however,  always  continue  :  the  preference  of  the  soil  for  its  first 
growth,  ceases  with  its  maturity:  it  admits  of  no  succession  on  the  principle 
of  legitimacy :  the  long  undisputed  masters  of  the  forest  may  be  thinned  by 
the  lightning,  the  tempests,  or  by  diseases  peculiar  to  themselves  ;  and  when- 
ever this  is  the  case,  one  of  the  oft-rejected  of  another  family  will  find 
between  its  decaying  roots  shelter  and  appropriate  food,  and  springing  into 
vigorous  growth,  will  soon  push  its  green  foliage  to  the  skies  through  the 
decayed  and  withering  limbs  of  its  blasted  and  dying  adversary;  the  soil 
itself,  yielding  it  a  more  liberal  support  than  any  scion  from  the  former  occu- 
pants. It  will  easily  be  conceived  what  a  length  of  time  it  will  require  for  a 
denuded  tract  of  land,  by  a  process  so  slow,  again  to  clothe  itself  with  the 
amazing  variety  of  foliage  which  is  the  characteristic  of  the  forests  of  these 
regions.  Of  what  immense  age,  then,  must  be  those  works,  so  often  recurred 
to,  covered,  as  has  been  supposed  by  those  who  have  the  best  opportunity 
of  examining  them,  with  the  second  growth  after  the  ancient  forest  state  had  been 
regained  V 

In  the  north  and  north-western  part  of  the  territory  over  which  these 
ancient  remains  spread,  in  Wisconsin,  and  also  in  a  certain  measure  in 
Michigan,  Iowa,  and  Missouri,  the  earthworks  assume  a  character  so  differ- 
ent from  any  we  have  as  yet  surveyed,  as  almost  to  induce  the  belief  that 
they  must  be  the  productions  of  a  distinct  race  ;  yet  the  transition  fc&  not 
abrupt,  for  instances  of  the  peculiar  mounds  which  we  are  about  to  describe, 
occur,  though  isolated,  in  Ohio  also.  The  works  to  which  we  allude  are 
described  as  structures  of  earth,  frequently  of  gigantic  dimensions  as  to 
length  and  breadth,  bearing  the  forms  of  beasts,  birds,  reptiles  and  even  of 
men,  and  'constituting  huge  basso-relievos  upon  the  face  of  the  country." 
From  their  relative  position  and  proximity,  there  is  reason  to  believe  that 
each  has  formed  part  of  a  general  design  or  system,  particularly  as  they  are 
interspersed  with  other  mounds  of  circular,  quadrangular,  and  oblong  shape, 
of  considerable  dimensions,  and  short  lines  of  embankment,  which  latter, 
however,  never  form  inclosures.  The  animal-shaped  mounds  are  situated 
upon  the  undulating  prairies  and  level  plains ;  and  thus,  though  they  are  oi 


5  >4  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

^considerable  height — varying  from  one  to  four  feet,  and  in  rare  instances 
only  reaching  an  elevation  of  six  feet — they  are  distinctly  visible,  and  the 
imagination  is  not  taxed  to  trace  in  them  the  resemblances  of  bears,  alligators, 
foxes,  pigs,  men  or  monkeys,  and  birds.  Like  the  embankments  of  the  Ohio 
valley,  they  principally  occur  in  the  vicinity  of  the  large  water-courses,  and 
are  always  placed  above  the  reach  of  the  annual  inundations:  The  extraor- 
dinary care  with  which  the  minutiae  of  details  have  been  attended  to  in  the 
construction  of  these  huge  bas-reliefs,  is  strikingly  exemplified  in  one  in  the 
shape  of  a  serpent,  which  occurs  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  and  the  description  of 
which  we  extract  from  a  very  valuable  and  important  work  on  the  antiquities 
of  North  America,  recently  published  and  entitled,  '  A  ncient  Monuments  of 
the  Mississippi  Valley.  By  E.  G.  Squier,  Esq.,  A.  M.,  and  E.  H.  Davies, 
M.  D.'  'It  [the  serpent]  is  situated  upon  a  high,  crescent-form  hill  or  spur 
of  land,  rising  150  feet  above  the  level  of  Brush  creek,  which  washes  its 
base.  The  side  of  the  hill  next  the  stream  presents  a  perpendicular  wall  of 
rock,  while  the  other  slopes  rapidly.  The  top  of  the  hill  is  not  level,  but 
slightly  convex,  and  presents  a  very  even  surface,  150  feet  wide,  by  1000 
long.  Conforming  to  the  curve  of  the  hill,  and  occupying  its  very  summit, 
is  the  serpent,  its  head  resting  on  the  point,  and  its  body  winding  back  for 
700  feet  in  graceful  undulations,  terminating  in  a  triple  coil  at  the  tail.  The 
entire  length,  if  extended,  would  not  be  less  than  1000  feet.  The  outline  of 
this  work  is  clearly  and  boldly  defined,  the  embankment  being  upwards  of 
five  feet  in  height  by  thirty  feet  base  at  the  center  of  the'  body,  but  dimin- 
ishing somewhat  toward  the  head  and  tail.  The  neck  of  the  serpent  is 
stretched  out,  and  slightly  curved  ;  and  its  mouth  is  opened  wide,  as  if  in  the 
act  of  swallowing  or  ejecting  an  oval  figure,  which  rests  partially  within  the 
distended  jaws.  This  oval  is  formed  by  an  embankment  of  earth  without  any 
perceptible  opening,  four  feet  in  height,  and  is  perfectly  regular  in  outline — 
its  transverse  and  conjugate  diameters  being  160  and  eighty  feet  respectively. 
The  ground  within  the  oval  is  slightly  elevated  ;  a  small  circular  elevation 
of  large  stones,  much  burned,  which  once  existed  in  its  center,  has  been 
thrown  down  and  scattered.  The  point  of  the  hill  within  which  this  egg- 
shaped  figure  rests  seems  to  have  been  artificially  cut  to  conform  to  its  outline, 
leaving  a  smooth  platform,  ten  feet  wide,  and  somewhat  inclining  inward,  an 
around  it. 

'Upon  either  side  of  the  serpent's  head,  extend  two  small  triangular 
elevations,  ten  or  twelve  feet  over.  They  are  not  high  ;  and  although  too 
distinct  to  be  overlooked,  are  yet  too  much  obliterated  to  be  satisfactorily 
traced.' 

Another  of  these  embossed  figures  in  Wisconsin  is  described  as  follows: — 
fIt  represents  a  human  figure  having  two  heads,  which  gracefully  recline 
over  the  shoulders.  It  is  well  preserved.  The  arms  are  disproportionately 
long.  The  various  parts  of  the  figure  are  gracefully  rounded ;  the  stomach 
and  breasts  are  full  and  well  proportioned.'  Its  dimensions  are,  from  one 
arm-pit  over  the  breast  to  the  other,  twenty-five  feet ;  across  the  arms  at  the 
shoulders,  twelve;  and  tapering  to  four  feet  at  the  extremities.  Over  the 
hips  the  breadth  is  twenty  feet ;  and  over  the  legs,  near  the  body,  eight ;  and 


RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA.  505 

tapering  to  five.  The  figure  above  the  shoulders  measures  in  width  fifteen 
feet,  each  neck  eight,  and  the  heads  ten.  The  length  of  the  body  is  fifty 
feet.  The  elevation  of  the  breasts,  and  shoulders,  and  abdomen  is  thirty-six 
inches ;  the  arms  at  the  junction  of  the  shoulders  are  the  same  height, 
diminishing  toward  their  extremities  to  ten  inches ;  the  thighs  near  the  trunk 
are  twenty,  and  at  the  feet  but  ten  inches  in  height. 

Some  of  these  mounds  have  been  excavated,  and  found  to  contain  human 
remains  ;  and  it  has  also  been  ascertained  that  some  of  the  Indian  tribes  at 
present  inhabiting  the  localities  deposit  their  dead  in  them,  though  they 
possess  no  traditions  relative  to  them,  nor  has  any  existing  tribe  ever  been 
known  to  construct  similar  tumuli.  The  fact  of  their  having  at  some  period 
or  other  served  for  interment,  has  led  Mr.  R.  C.  Taylor,  a  gentleman  who 
has  given  them  much  attention,  to  express  the  ingenious  suggestion,  that 
they  may  really,  originally,  have  served  as  sepulchral  mounds,  and  that  the 
figures  of  the  various  animals  may  have  been  intended  to  indicate  the  ceme- 
teries of  the  various  families  or  tribes.  Among  these  peculiar  works  in  Wis- 
consin, occurs  one  which  again  presents  the  missing  link  in  the  chain  which 
extends  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  confines  of  Canada  :  this  is  an  inclo- 
sure  upon  the  west  bank  of  the  Rock  river,  consisting  of  a  wall  of  partially- 
burnt  day,  five  feet  high  by  twenty-five  feet  base,  inclosing  an  area  of  about 
twenty  acres,  over  which  are  scattered  a  number  of  truncated  pyramids,  forty 
or  fifty  feet  square  upon  the  top,  and  between  fifteen  and  twenty  in  height,  two 
of  which  are  connected  with  each  other  by  an  elevated  way  similar  to  those 
which  occur  in  Mississippi  and  Louisiana.  In  a  paragraph  in  one  of  the  reports 
of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  mention  is  made  of  the  existence  of 
mounds  in  the  Oregon  territory  also ;  but  as  yet,  it  has  not  been  ascertained 
whether  these  present  any  affinities  to,  and  may  be  embraced  in,  the  system 
of  which  we  have  been  treating.  That  they  are  of  frequent  occurrence  upon 
the  river  Gila  in  California,  and  also  upon  the  tributaries  of  the  Colorado  of 
the  west  has  also  but  recently  been  ascertained.  On  the  banks  of  the  river 
Gila,  indeed,  it  has  been  asserted  that  ruins  of  an  ancient  city  have  been  met 
with  covering  more  than  a  square  league,  and  the  buildings  of  which  were 
analogous  to  those  of  the  south  of  Mexico.  This  led  to  the  supposition  that 
in  these  territories  the  Toltecs  had  made  one  of  their  halts  on  their  way  to 
the  valley  of  Anahuac,  and  that  their  original  country  was  in  consequence 
located  somewhere  in  the  '  far  west  f  but  a  more  accurate  knowledge  of  the 
localities  has  led  to  the  abandonment  of  this  opinion,  and  it  is  now  considered 
more  probable  that  whatever  degree  of  ancient  civilization  had  reached  the 
countries  along  the  North  American  shores  of  the  Pacific,  has  spread  thence 
from  Mexico. 

It  is  not  only  the  earthen  structures  and  stone  edifices  throughout  America 
which  attest  the  antiquity  of  the  civilization  of  that  continent — the  identity  of 
descent  in  all  its  inhabitants,  up  to  the  time  of  its  discovery  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  the  decline  of  the  greater  number  of  its  nations  from  a  cultivated  to  a 
savage  state ;  the  remains  of  the  manufactures  and  arts  of  the  people,  obtained 
by  excavation,  their  pictorial  arts,  their  system  of  hieroglyphics,  their  modes 
of  interment,  their  national  games   and   dances,  their  treatment  of  theii 


506  RUINED  CITIES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

prisoners,  their  language,  and  their  religion,  combine  to  establish  the  same 
conclusion.  But  however  interesting  these  may  be  in  themselves,  and  in 
what  they  demonstrate,  our  limits  preclude  our  entering  upon  them. 

With  regard  to  what  may  be  more  strictly  termed  the  living  testimonies 
which  may  serve  to  shed  some  faint  light  upon  the  strange  extinction  of 
civilization  throughout  regions  so  vast,  they  are  but  slight,  yet  not  devoid  of 
significance.  Among  several  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  United  States,  there 
exist  traditions  of  their  having  originally  migrated  from  the  west,  and  of  their 
ancestors  having,  during  their  passage  eastward,  come  into  hostile  collision 
with,  and  ultimately  defeated,  people  living  in  fortified  towns.  Among  the 
Delaware  Indians,  for  instance,  the  story  goes  that,  many  centuries  ago,  the 
great  race  of  the  Lenni-Lenapi  inhabited  a  territory  far  to  the  west ;  and  that, 
when  subsequently  they  began  to  move  eastward,  they  came  upon  a  numerous 
and  civilized  people,  to  whom  they  give  the  name  of  Alligewi,  occupying  the 
country  on  the  eastern  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  and  living  in  fortified  cities. 
Having  applied  to  this  people  for  permission  to  cross  the  river,  and  to 
continue  their  route  eastward  through  their  territory,  the  demand  was  first 
acceded  to,  on  condition  of  the  Indians  promising  not  to  make  settlements 
within  their  boundaries — but  subsequently,  it  would  seem,  repented  of ;  for 
during  the  passage  of  the  river  the  Indians  were  attacked  by  the  Alligewi. 
A  fierce  and  obstinate  struggle  ensued ;  and  the  Lenni-Lenapi  having  made 
common  cause  with  the  Iroquois,  who  had  likewise  reached  the  Mississippi  in 
their  migration  eastward,  the  two  roving  Indian  tribes  made  such  fierce  and 
repeated  assaults  upon  the  Alligewi,  that,  to  avoid  extermination,  the  latter  aban- 
doned their  towns  and  territory,  and  fled  down  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
traditions  of  the  Iroquois  bear  out  this  of  the  Lenni-Lenapi;  and  in  every  case 
the  Indians  dwelling  in  the  localities  of  the  various  mounds  and  earthworks 
attribute  these  to  a  people  at  an  early  date  exterminated  by  their  forefathers, 
and  never  assume  them  to  be  the  works  of  the  latter.  As  we  have  said,  the 
light  thus  shed  upon  the  history  of  the  past  is  faint,  yet  significant,  in  as  far  as 
it  seems  to  reveal  the  same  traces  of  a  downward  course  in  the  path  of  civiliza- 
tion which  appear  everywhere  in  connection  with  the  history  of  the  aborigines 
of  America — a  race  the  wild  suckers  of  which,  having  grown  up  in  rank 
luxuriance,  had  at  the  period  of  the  arrival  of  the  Europeans  well-nigh 
annihilated  the  original  cultivated  and  fruit-bearing  parent  stem. 


LIFE     IN     INDIA 


VISHNU     ASLEEP     ON     A     THOUSAND     HEADED 


PENT.* 


CHAPTER  I. 

Ipdia  Defined— Burmah  Described— Manners,  Customs,  and  Government  of  the  Burmans— 
The  Boodhist  Keligion  next  to  Christianity— Departure  of  the  Rev.  Howard  Malcolm 
from  Boston— The  Savages  of  the  Andaman  Islands— Arrival  at  Maulmain  in  Burmah— 
Judson,  the  Missionary— Coasting  Voyage— Curiosity  of  the  People — Tavoy— Converts- 
Kindness  of  the  People— New  Year  Festivities— Cave  of  Idols— Pagodas— Rangoon- 
Voyage  up  the  Irrawaddy— Lepers— Boatmen— Toddy-tree— Amusing  Alarm— A va,  "the 
Golden  City" — Adventures  in  Ava — Calcutta. 

The  term  India,  was  applied  by  the  ancient  Greeks  to  the  vast,  and  then 
almost  unknown  regions  beyond  the  Indus.  Just  before  the  Christian  era, 
the  appellation  of  Hither  India  was  applied  to  Hindoostan,  and  Farther  India 
to  the  countries  on  the  east  of  the  Ganges,  which  comprise  Burmah,  Asam, 

*  This  engraving  illustrates  a  noted  Hindoo  legend.  **  After  the  destruction  of  a  pre- 
vious world  by  a  deluge,  this  divinity,  Vishnu,  composed  himself  to  sleep  on  a  thousand 
headed  serpent,  which  floated  upon  the  surface  of  the  waters.  During  a  nap  of  some 
millions  of  years,  a  water  lily  grew  from  his  body  ;  from  this  flower  issued  Brahma,  the 
Creator.  Having  formed  the  world  anew,  and  created  many  of  the  gods,  he  proceeded 
to  create  man.  when  the  four  classes  or  castes,  into  which  the  Hindoos  are  divided,  issued 
from  different  parts  of  his  body." 

507 


508  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

Munipore,  Siam,  Camboja,  and  Cochin-China.  All  of  these  countries,  Hin- 
doostan  inclusive,  contain  200  millions  of  inhabitants,  nearly  one-quarter  of  all 
on  the  globe. 

The  ascertained  history  of  Burmah,  to  which  country  we  first  particularly 
direct  attention,  covers  twenty-five  centuries  ;  its  fabulous  history  millions  of 
years  !  In  1826,  an  unsuccessful  war  with  the  British  East  India  Company, 
occasioned  the  loss  of  several  of  her  finest  provinces,  which  under  British 
rule,  have  greatly  advanced  in  civilization. 

But  few  countries  equal  Burmah  in  grandeur  of  scenery,  or  in  fertility,  and 
in  the  variety,  value,  and  elegance  of  native  productions.  Lofty  mountains, 
extensive  forests,  and  a  delightful  climate,  characterize  her  upper  country. 
Burmah  has  eight  millions  of  inhabitants,  of  whom,  not  one  half  are  Burmese, 
the  rest  being  made  up  of  various  tribes.  The  population  is  almost  entirely 
in  the  river  valleys,  which  are  of  such  excessive  fertility  as  to  produce  a 
hundred  fold. 

Burmah  is  occupied  by  a  people  of  great  activity  and  acuteness,  and  pos- 
sessed of  many  agreeable  qualities.  They  are  shorter  than  the  Hindoos,  but 
excel  them  in  activity,  and  in  features  are  like  the  Malays,  possessing  black 
hair,  thick  lips,  and  flat  noses.  Their  ideal  of  beauty  is  a  delicate  yellow. 
They  build  their  houses  of  bamboo,  and  cover  their  sides  with  mats,  and 
generally  thatch  the  roofs.  The  floors  are  made  of  split  cane,  raised  a  few 
feet  from  the  ground.  The  doors  and  windows  are  formed  of  bamboo  frames, 
and  matted  ;  these  swing  open  at  the  top,  and  in  hot  weather  are  propped  up 
with  sticks,  and  form  shades.  In  large  towns  the  residences  of  the  wealthy 
are  of  wood,  the  floors  planked  and  the  windows  panneled.  The  rank  of  the 
occupant  is  showed  by  the  architecture  of  his  dwelling,  and  he  cannot  vary 
from  it  without  incurring  punishment.  The  houses  are  destitute  of  chimnies, 
and  the  cooking  is  done  in  a  small  earthen  pot.  The  favorite  food  of  Bur- 
mah, indeed,  of  all  India,  as  well  as  China,  is  rice,  of  which,  there  are  at 
least  forty  different  kinds. 

The  people  extensively  practice  tattooing,  and  are  becomingly  clad,  although 
much  of  the  person  is  exposed.  The  female  dress  is  decidedly  objectionable 
in  this  respect ;  but  immodesty  in  acts  or  gesture  is  rare  with  either  sex. 
The  priests  are  destitute  of  hair,  and  wear  a  yellow  garment,  which  would 
be  judged  sacrilegious  for  others  to  assume  ;  such  is  the  peculiar  sanctity  of 
this  color,  that  the  people  often  pay  their  devotions  to  an  old  garment  of  a 
priest,  which  has  been  hung  out  to  dry.  All  are  compelled  by  their  religion, 
to  learn  to  read,  and  few  cannot ;  but  science  is  undeveloped,  and  alchemy 
usurps  the  place  of  practical  knowledge.  The  people  are  divided  into  eight 
classes,  which  are  indicated  by  their  privileges  and  employments,  viz  :  the 
royal  family,  public  officers,  priests,  merchants,  cultivators,  laborers,  execu- 
tioners, slaves,  and  outcasts.  The  highest  offices  are  open  to  all  but  to  the 
slaves,  and  outcasts.  The  priests  carmot  marry  or  meddle  with  pclitics. 
The  nuns  are  mostly  old  women. 

The  Burmans  vary  in  many  particulars  from  the  Hindoos,  are  more  active 
and  industrious.     Their  desires  are  limited,  and  easily  gratified  in  a  country 


LIFE  m  INDIA.  509 

where  the  means  of  living  are  so  abundant  and  easily  attained.  Instead  of 
showing  the  unnecessary  desire  of  Americans,  to  outstrip  his  neighbors  in 
dress,  food,  furniture  or  house,  he  is  contented  when  he  has  attained  the 
customary  standard,  and  then  surrenders  the  rest  of  his  days  to  repose  and 
enjoyment.  To  strangers  they  are  hospitable,  and  one  may  travel  throughout 
the  empire,  and  receive  the  best  the  country  affords  without  expense.  Tem- 
perance is  universal,  being  enforced  by  religion,  law,  and  public  opinion,  and 
their  simple  diet  and  fine  climate,  render  them  healthy  and  long-lbed. 
Children  and  aged  people  are  treated  with  great  kindness.  They  are  grave, 
exceedingly  amiable,  ungrateful,  intriguing,  impolitic,  and  universally  liars. 
The  king  has  absolute  power,  and  although  usually  disposed  to  govern  with 
love,  his  plans  are  often  frustrated  by  the  intrigues  of  his  officers. 

The  Burmans  are  offensively  proud,,  and  every  Burman  appears  bloated 
with  self  conceit ;  gradations  of  rank  are  tenaciously  observed  in  the  smallest 
trifles,  as  in  their  houses,  costumes,  caps,  and  even  umbrellas.  To  ride  on 
an  elephant  is  a  royal  privilege,  and  none  but  the  king  and  his  family  can  use 
a  white  umbrella  ;  the  next  in  rank  use  those  that  are  gilded,  the  next  red  or 
fringed,  next  green,  etc.  Then  again,  each  of  these  grades  is  subdivided 
into  a  dozen  or  more,  by  peculiar  marks  to  indicate  the  rank  of  the  owner. 
Even  in  the  every-day  language,  the  same  etiquette  is  observed,  there  being 
several  ways  of  speaking  of  everything,  such  as  eating,  walking,  sleeping, 
etc.,  when  applied  to  people  of  different  grades.  To  use  an  expression  lower 
than  a  person's  rank  warrants,  would  be  construed  as  an  insult. 

Women  are  given  unusual  liberty  for  an  Eastern  country,  they  are  treated 
with  kindness,  and  their  intercourse  is  open  and  unrestricted.  They  hold 
their  husbands'  purse-strings,  do  most  of  the  buying  and  selling,  and  are 
exempt  from  hard  labor.  Marriage  is  a  matter  of  love,  and  courtships  are 
regularly  carried  on  as  in  christian  countries.  The  ratification  of  marriage 
consists  in  eating  out  of  the  same  dish.  When  married,  the  husband  must 
live  with  the  parents  of  his  wife,  serving  them  as  a  son  for  three  years,  three 
months,  and  three  days.  Divorces  are  exceedingly  common,  and  all  that  is 
necessary  to  obtain  one,  is  to  eat  pickled  tea  before  a  magistrate. 

An  excellent  system  exists  for  the  division  of  property.  The  king  owns 
all  the  land,  of  which  any  subject  can  use  what  he  can  cultivate.  If  he 
neglects  what  he  incloses,  it  can  be  used  by  another.  This  prevents  a 
monopoly  of  land,  and  is  a  judicious  management.  Burmah  has  considerable 
foreign  commerce,  which  is  carried  on  by  foreign  vessels,  their  own  being 
coasters  simply.  The  internal  commerce  is  large  and  an  active  inland  trade 
is  carried  on  by  caravans,  with  China.  Slavery  exists,  the  slaves  being 
prisoners  of  war,  or  their  descendants.  They  are  well  treated,  and  live  as 
comfortable  as  their  owners. 

In  Burmah  human  wants  have  a  limit  easily  attained,  and  giving  ample 
leisure  to  all  for  intellectual  and  moral  culture.  In  these  respects  Burmah 
is  superior  to  our  own  country,  where  only  by  incessant  labor  can  the  majority 
earn  a  bare  subsistence,  leaving  but  little  leisure  for  the  promotion  of  the 
higher  wants  of  our  nature.     The  regular  government  and  laws,  written  lan« 


510  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

guage,  established  literature,  settled  abodes,  foreign  commerce,  respectable 
architecture,  good  roads  and  bridges,  manufactures,  and  the  condition  of 
woman,  show  that  the  Burmans  are  a  civilized  people. 

Boodhism,  the  religion  of  Burmah,  has  the  greatest  number  of  disciples  of 
any  other  on  the  globe,  among  whom  is  half  of  the  people  of  China,  Lao, 
Cochin-China  and  Ceylon  ;  all  of  Camboja,  Siam,  Burmah,  Thibet,  Tartary, 
and  Loo-choo ;  and  a  great  part  of  Japan,  and  most  of  the  islands  of  the 
southern  seas.  Boodh  is  a  general  term  for  divinity.  Numberless  Boodhs 
have  existed  in  different  ages,  and  in  different  worlds  ;  in  some  worlds  none. 
In  this,  four,  of  whom  Gaudama  was  the  last.  He  was  the  son  of  the  King  of  Be- 
har  in  Hindoostan,  and  was  born  about  six  centuries  before  Christ.  Previously 
he  had  lived  in  four  hundred  millions  of  worlds,  having  passed  through  innu- 
merable conditions  in  each.  "  In  this  world,  he  had  been  almost  every  sort 
of  worm,  fly,  fowl,  fish,  or  animal,  and  in  almost  every  grade  and  condition  of 
human  life.  Having,  in  the  course  of  these  transitions,  attained  immense 
merit,  he  at  length  was  born  son  of  the  above-named  king.  The  moment  he 
was  born  he  jumped  upon  his  feet,  and  spreading  out  his  arms,  exclaimed, 
"  Now  am  I  the  noblest  of  men  !  This  is  the  last  time  I  shall  ever  be  born  !" 
His  height,  when  grown  up,  was  nine  cubits.  His  eais  were  so  beautifully 
long  as  to  hang  upon  his  shoulders  ;  his  hands  reached  to  his  knees  ;  his  fin- 
gers were  of  equal  length  ;  and  with  his  tongue  he  could  touch  the  end  of  his 
nose  !    All  of  which  are  considered  irrefragable  proofs  of  his  divinity. 

When  in  this  state,  his  mind  was  enlarged,  so  that  he  remembered  his  for- 
mer conditions  and  existences.  Of  these  he  rehearsed  many  to  his  followers. 
Five  hundred  and  fifty  of  these  narratives  have  been  preserved,  one  relating 
his  life  and  adventures  as  a  deer,  another  as  a  monkey,  elephant,  fowl,  etc., 
etc.  The  collection  is  called  Dzat,  and  forms  a  very  considerable  part  of 
the  sacred  books.  These  legends  are  a  fruitful  source  of  designs  for  Burman 
paintings.  He  became  Boodh  in  the  thirty-fifth  year  of  his  age,  and  remained 
so  forty-five  years,  at  the  end  of  which  time,  having  performed  all  sorts  of 
meritorious  deeds,  and  promulgated  excellent  laws,  far  and  wide,  he  obtained 
"  nicban,"  that  is,  entered  into  annihilation,  together  with  five  hundred 
priests,  by  whom  he  had  been  long  attended.  At  his  death,  he  advised  that, 
in  addition  to  obeying  his  laws,  his  relics  and  image  should  be  worshiped, 
and  pagodas  built  to  his  memory,  till  the  development  of  the  next  Boodh. 
He  is  invariably  represented  in  the  same  manner,  except  that  sometimes  he 
is  made  to  wear  a  crown,  necklace,  ornaments  on  his  arms,  etc. 

The  next  Boodh  is  to  appear  in  about  seven  or  eight  thousand  years  from 
the  present  time.  His  height  will  be  eighty  cubits  ;  his  mouth  will  be  five 
cubits  wide,  and  the  length  of  the  hairs  of  his  eyebrows  five  cubits.  The  pre- 
cise time  of  his  arrival  is  not  predicted.  No  laws  or  sayings  of  the  first  three 
Boodhs  are  extant.  Those  of  Gaudama  were  transmitted  by  tradition,  till 
four  hundred  and  fifty  years  after  his  decease,  when  they  were  reduced  to 
writing  in  Ceylon,  that  is,  a.  d.  94.  These  are  the  only  sacred  books  of  the 
Burmans,  and  are  all  in  the  Pali  language.  They  are  comprised  in  three 
divisions  or  books.  Each  of  these  is  divided  into  distinct  books,  or  sections. 
The  whole  is  called  the  Bedagat.     Copies  of  parts  of  these  works  are  not 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  51] 

scarce,  though  found  chiefly  with  the  priests.  Entire  copies  are  rare.  Some 
of  them  are  truly  elegant,  the  leaf  being  covered  with  black  varnish,  as  fine 
and  glossy  as  enamel,  and  over  this  the  words  written  in  gold  letters." 

The  celestial  regions  consist  of  twenty -six  heavens,  one  above  another  ;  and 
the  infernal  regions  of  eight  principal  hells,  each  surrounded  by  sixteen 
smaller  ones.  In  the  first  six  heavens  the  inhabitants  have  body  and  soul 
like  ourselves  ;  in  the  next  sixteen  they  are  pure  matter,  and  the  last  four 
pure  spirit.  The  aim  of  mortals  after  death  is  to  attain  to  "Tah-wa-ting-tha," 
one  of  the  middle  heavens,  which  abounds  in  good  things,  where  they  never 
perform  servile  labor,  for  the  trees  bear  everything  in  profusion,  and  the 
term  of  their  lives  is  about  nine  millions  of  times  longer  than  it  is  in  this 
world. 

In  four  of  the  principal  hells  punishment  is  inflicted  by  heat,  and  in  four 
others  by  cold.  In  the  sixteen  minor  hells,  the  wicked  suffer  every  conceiv- 
able misery  not  connected  with  heat  or  cold.  Worms  of  vast  size  bite  them  ; 
their  bowels  are  torn  out,  their  limbs  racked,  and  their  bodies  beaten  or  lace- 
rated with  dreadful  hammers.  They  are  pierced  with  red-hot  spits,  crucified 
head  downward,  gnawed  by  dogs,  and  torn  by  vultures.  These  and  innu- 
merable other  evils  are  described  in  the  Bedagat.  The  inhabitants  are  six 
miles  high,  and  are  continually  creeping  and  roaming  about  in  the  vast  caves 
of  their  dreadful  abode. 

To  deny  or  disbelieve  the  doctrines  of  Gaudama  incurs  eternal  suffering  in 
fire.  Killing  men  or  animals,  causing  criminals  to  be  executed,  insulting 
women,  old  men  or  priests,  cheating,  receiving  bribes,  selling  any  intoxicat- 
ing liquor,  and  parricide,  are  punished  in  the  worst  hells.  Merit  may  be 
gained  by  good  conduct  in  any  of  these  hells,  so  that  except  the  criminality 
has  incurred  eternal  torment,  the  sufferers  may  rise  again  to  become  insects, 
beasts,  men,  spirits,  etc. 

Of  any  supreme  God,  or  of  any  eternal  self-existent  being,  Boodhism 
affords  no  intimation  ;  nor  of  any  creation  or  providence.  From  the  annihi- 
lation of  one  Boodh,  till  the  development  of  another,  there  is  literally  no  God. 
Intervening  generations  must  worship  his  image,  law,  and  priests,  and  for 
their  rules  of  life  keep  the  sayings  of  the  last  Boodh,  viz.  Gaudama. 

Not  only  has  the  universe  and  all  its  systems  existed  from  eternity,  but 
also  the  souls  of  all  the  inhabitants,  whether  animals,  men,  or  celestials. 
These  souls  have  from  eternity  been  transmigrating  from  one  body  to  another, 
rising  or  falling  in  the  scale  of  existence  and  enjoyment,  according  to  the 
degree  of  merit  at  each  birth.  This  rise  or  fall  is  not  ordered  by  any  intelli- 
gent judge,  but  is  decided  by  immutable  fate.  In  passing  through  these 
various  forms  of  existence,  the  amount  of  sorrow  endured  by  each  soul,  is 
incalculable.  The  Bedagat  declares  that  the  tears  shed  by  any  one  soul  in 
its  various  changes  from  eternity  are  so  numerous,  that  the  ocean  is  but 
shallow  in  comparison  !  Existence  and  sorrow  are  declared  to  be  necessary 
concomitants  ;  and  therefore  "  the  chief  end  of  man"  is  to  finish  this  eternal 
round  of  changes,  and  be  annihilated. 

The  great  doctrines  of  this  faith  are  five,  viz.  1.  The  eternal  existence  of  the 
universe,  and  all  beings.     2.  Metempsychosis..     3.  Nicban,  or  annihilation 


512  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

4.  The  appearance,  at  distant  periods,  of  beings  who  obtain  deification  and 
subsequent  annihilation.  5.  The  obtaining  of  merit.  Of  the  first  four  of  these, 
enough  has  been  already  said.  The  last  is  more  deserving  of  notice,  embra- 
cing, as  it  does,  the  whole  system  of  morals. 

Merit  consists  in  avoiding  sins,  and  performing  virtues  ;  and  the  degree  of 
it  is  the  sole  hope  of  the  Boodhist.  The  forgiveness  of  sins,  and  the  receipt 
of  favor  through  the  merit  of  another,  are  doctrines  unknown. 

The  sins  which  are  to  be  avoided  are  described  in  a  moral  code,  consisting 
of  five  positive  commandments  against:  1st.  Killing.  2d.  Stealing.  3d. 
Adultery.  4th.  Lying;  and  5th.  Drinking  intoxicating  liquor.  Killing 
applies  to  even  animals  for  food,  and  the  very  religious  will  not  kill  even  ver- 
min. Sins  are  divided  into,  1st.  Those  of  the  body,  such  as  murder,  theft, 
fornication,  etc.  2d.  Those  of  the  tongue,  as  falsehood,  slander,  harsh 
words,  idle  talk,  etc.  3d.  Those  of  the  mind,  as  pride,  covetousness,  envy, 
heresy,  etc. 

Merits  are  of  various  kinds,  and  the  precepts  enjoin  beneficence,  gentle- 
ness, integrity,  kindness  to  parents,  love  to  mankind,  making  an  idol  of  Gau- 
dama,  building  pagodas,  public  spirit,  religious  exercises,  alms-giving,  etc. 
He  who  neglects  merit  is  compared  to  a  man  who  starts  on  a  long  journey 
through  a  wilderness  beset  with  wild  beasts,  without  providing  himself  with 
food  and  weapons.  According  to  the  amount  of  merit  attained  in  this  life  is 
the  superiority  of  the  next  state  of  the  person. 

In  the  Bedagat  are  many  discourses  said  to  have  been  delivered  by  Gau- 
dama,  in  which  the  duties  of  the  various  classes  are  given  and  urged.  The 
following  is  part  of  one  of  these  addressed  to  a  distinguished  personage,  who 
sought  his  instruction  how  to  avoid  evil : 

"  Know  thou,  that  to  keep  from  the  company  of  the  ignorant,  and  choose 
that  of  learned  men  ;  to  give  honor  to  whom  it  is  due  ;  to  choose  a  residence 
proper  for  our  station,  and  adapted  for  procuring  the  common  wants  of  life  ; 
and  to  maintain  a  prudent  carriage, — are  means  of  preserving  a  man  from 
evil  doings.  The  comprehension  of  all  things  that  are  not  evil,  the  exact 
knowledge  of  the  duties  of  our  station,  and  the  observance  of  modesty  and 
piety  in  our  speech,  are  four  excellent  modes  of  renouncing  wickedness. 

"  By  ministering  a  proper  support  to  parents,  wife,  and  family  ;  by  purity 
and  honesty  in  every  action  ;  by  alms-deeds  ;  by  observing  the  divine  pre- 
cepts ;  and  by  succoring  relations — we  may  be  preserved  from  evil.  By 
such  a  freedom  from  faults,  that  not  even  the  inferior  part  of  our  nature  manifests 
any  affection  for  them  ;  by  abstinence  from  all  intoxicating  drink  ;  by  the  con- 
tinual practice  of  works  of  piety  ;  by  showing  respectfulness,  humility,  and 
sobriety  before  all  ;  and  gratitude  to  our  benefactors  ;  and  finally  by  listening 
often  to  the  preaching  of  the  word  of  God — we  overcome  evil  inclinations, 
and  keep  ourselves  far  from  sin.  Docility  in  receiving  the  admonitions  of 
good  men  ;  frequent  visits  to  priests  ;  spiritual  conferences  on  the  Divine  laws; 
patience,  frugality,  modesty  ;  the  literal  observance  of  the  law ;  keeping 
before  our  eyes  the  four  states  into  which  living  creatures  pass  after  death  ; 
and  meditation  on  the  happy  repose  of  Nicbanvj  these  are  distinguished  rules 
for  preserving  man  from  wickedness. 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  51S 

"  That  intrepidity  and  serenity  which  good  men  preserve  amid  the  eight 
evils  of  life  (abundance  and  want,  joy  and  sorrow,  popularit)r  and  abandon- 
ment, censure  and  praise)  ;  their  freedom  from  fear  and  inquietude  ;  from 
the  dark  mists  of  concupiscence  ;  and,  finally,  their  insensibility  to  suffering: 
these  are  four  rare  gifts,  that  remove  men  far  from  evil.  Therefore,  0  sir  i 
imprint  well  upon  your  heart  the  thirty-eight  precepts  I  have  just  delivered. 
Let  them  be  deeply  rooted  there,  and  see  that  you  put  them  in  practice." 

"  No  false  religion,  ancient  or  modern,  is  comparable  to  this.  Its  philoso- 
phy is,  indeed,  not  exceeded  in  folly  by  any  other  ;  but  its  doctrines  and  prac- 
tical piety  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  those  of  the  holy  Scripture.  There  is 
scarcely  a  principle  or  precept  in  the  Bedagat  which  is  not  found  in  the  Bible- 
Did  the  people  but  act  up  to  its  principles  of  peace  and  love,  oppression  and 
injury  would  be  known  no  more  within  their  borders.  Its  deeds  of  merit  are  in 
all  cases  either  really  beneficial  to  mankind,  or  harmless.  It  has  no  mytho- 
logy of  obscene  and  ferocious  deities  ;  no  sanguinary  or  impure  observances  ; 
no  self-inflicted  tortures  ;  no  tyrannizing  priesthood  ;  no  confounding  of  right 
and  wrong,  by  making  certain  iniquities  laudable  in  worship.  In  its  moral 
code,  its  descriptions  of  the  purity  and  peace  of  the  first  ages,  of  the  shorten- 
ing of  man's  life  because  of  his  sins,  etc.,  it  seems  to  have  followed  genuine 
traditions.  In  almost  every  respect,  it  seems  to  be  the  best  religion  which 
man  has  ever  invented. 

At  the  same  time  we  must  regard  Boodhism  with  unmeasured  reprobation, 
if  we  compare  it,  not  with  other  false  religions,  but  with  truth.  Its  entire 
base  is  false.  It  is  built,  not  on  love  to  God,  nor  even  love  to  man,  but  on 
personal  merit.  It  is  a  system  of  religion  without  a  God.  It  is  literally 
atheism.  Instead  of  a  Heavenly  Father,  forgiving  sin,  and  filial  service  from 
a  pure  heart,  as  the  effect  of  love,  it  presents  nothing  to  love,  for  its  Deity  is 
dead  ;  nothing  as  the  ultimate  object  of  action  but  self;  and  nothing  for 
man's  highest  and  holiest  ambition  but  annihilation. 

The  system  of  merit  corrupts  and  perverts  to  evil,  the  very  precepts  whose 
prototypes  are  found  in  the  Bible  ;  and  causes  an  injurious  effect  on  the  heart, 
from  the  very  duties  which  have  a  salutary  effect  on  society.  Thus,  to  say 
nothing  of  its  doctrines  of  eternal  transmigration,  and  of  uncontrollable  fate, 
we  may  see,  in  this  single  doctrine  of  merit,  the  utter  destruction  of  all  excel- 
lence. It  leaves  no  place  for  holiness  ;  for  everything  is  done  for  the  single 
purpose  of  obtaining  advantage. 

Boodhism  allows  evil  to  be  balanced  with  good,  by  a  scale  which  reduces 
sin  to  the  shadow  of  a  trifle.  To  sheeko  to  a  pagoda,  or  offer  a  flower  to  ihe 
idol,  or  feed  the  priests,  or  set  a  pot  of  cool  water  by  the  wayside,  is  sup- 
posed to  cancel  a  multitude  of  sins.  The  building  of  a  kyoung,  or  pagoda, 
will  outweigh  enormous  crimes,  and  secure  prosperity  for  ages  to  come.  Vice 
is  thus  robbed  of  its  terrors  ;  for  it  can  be  overbalanced  by  easy  virtues. 
Instances  are  not  rare  of  robbery,  and  even  murder,  beinsf  committed,  to 
obtain  the  means  of  buying  merit.  All  the  terrors,  therefore,  with  which  hell 
is  represented,  do  but  serve  to  excite  to  the  observance  of  frivolous  rites. 
The  making  of  an  idol,  an  offering,  or  some  such  act,  is  substituted  for  repent* 
ance  and  reparation,  for  all  inward  excellence,  and  every  outward  charity." 
33 


514  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

In  the  year  1835,  the  Rev.  Howard  Malcolm  was  sent  out  by  the  Ameri- 
can Baptist  Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  as  a  deputy  to  examine  into  the 
affairs  of  their  various  missions  in  the  countries  of  South-eastern  Asia.  His 
opportunities  for  investigation  were  unusually  favorable,  and  he  appears  to 
have  pursued  them  with  a  careful  regard  to  strict  accuracy. 

On  Tuesday,  the  22d  of  September,  1835,  Mr.  Malcolm  sailed  from 
Boston,  in  the  ship  Louvre,  with  a  numerous  company  of  missionaries  des- 
tined for  the  East  Indies.  As  they  left  the  wharf  the  whole  vicinity  was  one 
dense  mass  of  grave  and  silent  spectators.  Not  a  sound  interrupted  the  last 
prayer  calling  the  blessings  of  Heaven  upon  their  labors.  A  thousand  voices 
joined  in  the  last  hymn.  The  last  tokens  of  farewell  were  given  when  the 
vessel  was  cast  from  her  moorings,  and  favored  by  a  noble  breeze,  rapidly 
disappeared  from  the  gazing  thousands  on  shore  and  in  a  few  hours  was  far 
out  on  the  bounding  billows. 

The  voyage  was  not  marked  by  any  especial  incidents ;  on  the  1st  of  Feb- 
ruary following  (1836),  they  entered  Hoogly  river,  and  sailed  up  it  some 
sixty  miles  to  Kedgeree.  On  this  stream  stands  Calcutta,  and  their  object 
in  entering  it,  was  to  obtain  conveyance  for  those  missionaries  of  their  party 
destined  for  that  station.  Here  Mr.  Malcolm  first  saw  some  of  the  natives 
of  the  country.  They  were  of  diminutive  stature,  but  well  proportioned, 
with  bright,  intelligent  countenances,  aquiline  noses,  and  teeth  ivory  white. 
Their  complexions  generally  seemed  to  him  about  like  those  of  the  blacks  of 
the  northern  states  ;  some  of  the  young  people  were  about  the  color  of  our 
Indians,  and  black  hair,  slighty  curly,  was  universal.  Their  only  garment 
was  a  narrow  white  cotton  cloth  folded  around  the  loins,  which  was  occasion- 
ally seen  loosened  and  thrown  over  the  shoulders;  a  few  wore  cotton  turbans. 
He  was  interested  in  noticing  how  nicely  they  cooked  their  rice,  and  the 
enormous  quantities  they  swallowed.  Each  one  grasped  all  he  was  able,  and 
stuffing  his  mouth  full,  let  the  surplus  tumble  down  into  the  dish.  Each 
consumed  about  two  quarts  at  a  sitting  ;  but  this,  perhaps,  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at,  as  they  eat  scarce  anything  else.  After  dinner  they  smoked, 
then  took  off  their  body  clothes,  spreading  them  in  the  sun,  and  laid  down  to 
sleep. 

Having  accomplished  their  errand  up  the  Hoogly,  the  Louvre  returned 
down  the  river,  and  continued  on  her  way  to  Burmah,  in  which  empire  Mr. 
Malcolm  first  extensively  traveled.  A  few  days  after,  they  passed  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Andaman  islands,  which  are  sparsely  inhabited  by  negroes,  in 
the  lowest  state  of  degradation,  and  of  the  most  repulsive  aspect.  They 
average  about  five  feet  in  height ;  being  entirely  a  distinct  race  from  the 
nations  around,  their  origin  is  a  great  mystery.  Two  Mahometan  travelers 
journeying  eastward  a  thousand  years  since,  correctly  described  these  people, 
as  being  black,  with  frizzled  hair,  and  frightful  countenances,  and  as  entirely 
naked,  and  eating  human  flesh.  In  place  of  clothing,  and  as  a  defense  against 
insects,  they  coat  themselves  all  over  with  mud,  which  drying  hard,  imparts 
to  them  a  hideous  aspect.  Their  houses  are  about  equal  to  a  monkey's  lair, 
consisting  only  of  four  little  upright  poles,  gathered  at  the  top  and  covered 
with  leaves. 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  515 

After  a  voyage  of  about  800  miles  from  Calcutta  in  a  south-eastern  direc- 
tion, opposite  the  whole  length  of  the  Burman  Empire,  they  cast  anchor  at 
Amherst  at  the  mouth  of  Salwen  river,  and  a  few  miles  below  the  town  of 
Maulmain,  noted  as  the  scene  of  the  missionary  labors  of  the  late  Mr.  Jud- 
son  ;  who,  on  learning  of  his  arrival,  came  down  in  a  small  boat  and  con- 
veyed our  traveler  and  company  to  his  residence  in  Maulmain. 

On  the  first  Sabbath  after  his  arrival  public  service  was  held  with  the  Bur- 
man  congregation,  in  the  zayat,  or  public  house.  The  audience  sat  on  mats 
on  the  floor,  their  backs  resting  against  bamboo  logs.  They  were  remarkably 
attentive  and  devout,  and  in  prayer,  instead  of  kneeling  bent  forward,  and 
resting  on  their  elbows,  put  their  palms  together. 

While  at  Maulmain,  Mr.  Malcolm  procured  a  small  cutter,  and  sailed  along 
some  two  hundred  miles  in  a  south-east  direction,  to  visit  the  missions  at 
Tavoy,  Mergui,  and  vicinity.  The  voyage  was  along  a  coast  bounded  by 
noble  mountains,  closely  covered  with  forests  in  the  richest  verdure.  He 
landed  at  a  small  but  well-built  Burman  village,  adorned  by  a  profusion  of 
beautiful  trees,  and  distant  but  a  few  miles  from  Tavoy.  He  was  immedi- 
ately escorted  to  a  cool  zayat.  This,  the  principal  public  building  in  a 
Burman  village,  answers  for  a  tavern,  and  is  frequently  used  for  religious 
meetings,  and  contains  idols.  It  is  simply  a  shed,  with  a  floor  of  split  canes, 
and  wide  verandahs,  as  a  protection  from  the  sun's  rays,  which  in  this 
climate  are  overpowering.  Some  of  them  are  very  handsome,  and  as  tra- 
velers in  Burmah  always  carry  their  provisions,  and  water,  and  fruits,  are 
freely  given  by  the  people,  the  accommodations  are  all  sufficient. 

No  sooner  had  Mr.  Malcolm  arrived  at  this  zayat,  than  he  was  furnished 
with  a  mat  to  lie  upon,  and  water  and  oranges  by  the  kind-hearted  villagers, 
without  hope  or  expectation  of  remuneration.  Women  and  children  came  in 
throngs  to  see  the  foreigner,  and  in  the  exercise  of  their  curiosity,  behaved 
with  the  utmost  respect. 

After  a  short  repose  he  started  on  foot  across  the  country  for  Tavoy,  ac- 
companied by  his  cooley  or  porter,  for  a  guide,  who  carried  his  baggage  on  a 
pole  slung  across  his  shoulder.  They  entered  the  jungle  or  thicket,  and 
wound  their  way  over  the  mountains.  The  foliage  was  fresh  and  intensely 
green,  innumerable  vines  intertwined  among  the  trees,  most  of  which,  as  is 
usual  in  tropical  countries,  were  covered  with  flowers,  which  filling  the  air 
with  fragrance,  combined  with  the  general  beauty  of  the  country,  to  impart 
delicious  sensations.  They  stopped  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  and 
spread  a  cloth  under  the  shade  of  a  large  tree,  and  while  partaking  of  a 
frugal  meal,  a  couple  of  Burmese  priests  and  servants  came  up,  and  stopped 
to  repose  under  the  same  shade.  The  poor  cooley,  with  great  reverence, 
handed  a  plateful  to  one  of  the  priests,  an  old  man,  who,  after  examining, 
smelling,  and  tasting  the  bread,  tossed  it  away  in  disgust ;  he  evidently  was 
not  used  to  such  an  article  for  food. 

Tavoy  contains  about  9000  inhabitants,  and  is  a  missionary  station.  In  its 
vicinity  Mr.  Malcolm  found  gathered  in  a  christian  village,  about  200  Karens, 
in  charge  of  tho  Tavoy  missionaries.  Under  their  care  these  people  had 
abandoned  *heir  wanderings,  and  acquired  habits  of  industry  and  neatness 


516  LIFF  Iff  INDIA. 

In  their  public  services  they  manifested  an  attention  ai.d  devotion,  far  superioi 
to  that  usually  seen  in  churches  in  our  own  country.  They  voluntarily  built  a 
large  house  for  their  mission aiy,  and  a  zayat,  and  those  who  had  become  as« 
sistants,  displayed  great  missionary  zeal.  Although  but  lately  wild,  and 
wandering,  it  was  exhilarating  to  observe  with  what  eagerness  they  performed 
every  christian  duty  as  soon  as  it  was  taught,  of  which  we  adduce  one 
example.  Their  missionary  having  on  one  occasion  read  to  them  a  chapter, 
enjoining  the  duty  of  visiting  those  sick,  or  in  prison,  they  for  the  first  time 
in  their  lives,  commenced  immediately  performing  services  of  charity  and 
kindness.  The  next  day,  they  visited  a  poor  widow  and  her  child,  afflicted 
with  leprosy,  performed  many  repulsive  offices  for  them,  cleaned  the  house: 
brought  them  food,  so  that  the  poor  old  creature  was  fairly  bewildered  with 
delight.  One  bedridden  with  loathsome  sores,  was  similarly  treated,  and 
ever  after,  their  attention  to  all  in  affliction  or  sickness,  had  been  unremitted, 
and  what  was  still  additionally  gratifying,  they  were  performed  with  such 
studied  concealment,  that  only  through  the  sufferers  themselves,  were  these 
charities  revealed.  Other  wonderful  changes  took  place  in  the  morals  of  the 
people  ;  confirmed  sots  became  the  strictest  teetotalers,  and  such  was  their 
missionary  zeal,  that  some  of  them  took  wearysome  journeys  of  months' 
duration,  often  sleeping  under  the  trees,  and  going  without  food,  that  they 
might  distribute  religious  tracts  among  the  unconverted  of  their  countrymen. 

On  the  30th  of  March,  Mr.  Malcolm  had  returned  to  Maulmain.  On  that 
day  a  conference  was  commenced,  at  which  were  present,  twelve  American 
missionaries  with  their  wives.  The  succeeding  Sabbath,  he  preached  to 
them  from  the  text :  "  Glorify  ye  the  Lord  in  the  fires. "  "  It  is  delightfu1 
preaching,"  says  Mr.  Malcolm,  in  speaking  of  this  event,  "  to  greedy  listen- 
ers;" and  long  had  most  of  them  been  deprived  of  the  refreshment  of  sitting 
under  a  gospel  sermon.  Mr.  Judson  had  not  heard  a  sermon  in  English  for 
fourteen  years.  As  my  eye  rested  on  this  little  company,  it  was  sweet  to 
contemplate  the  venerable  founder  of  the  mission  (Mr.  Judson),  sitting  there 
to  rejoice  in  the  growth  of  the  cause  he  had  so  assiduously  and  painfully  sus- 
tained. His  labors  and  sufferings  for  years  ;  his  mastery  of  the  language  ; 
his  translation  of  the  whole  word  of  God  ;  and  his  being  permitted  now  to 
be  the  pastor  of  a  church  containing  over  a  hundred  natives,  make  him  the 
most  interesting  missionary  alive." 

After  the  close  of  the  conference,  Mr.  Malcolm  and  Mr.  Vinton  visited 
some  Karen  villages  on  an  island  below  Maulmain,  where  the  gospel  had  not 
yet  been  preached.  Having  landed  from  the  boat,  they  walked  through  the 
villages  and  rice  fields  until  they  ascended  a  mountain,  which  was  covered  by 
an  oriental  forest,  in  all  its  gorgeous  magnificence.  Every  night  they  lodged 
in  their  boat,  but  the  days  were  passed  among  the  people  whose  native  char- 
acter was  pleasing.  Although  they  went  through  several  villages  they  saw 
no  poverty,  and  everything  was  ordeilv.  They  entered  houses  freely,  and 
were  always  offered  mats  to  sit  upon,  and  received  the  greatest  hospitality. 
Such  was  the  desire  of  these  people  to  serve  them,  that  they  often  expostu- 
lated with  their  cook  for  bringing  rice  and  fowls,  as  they  wanted  to  present 
tliem.     Hospitality  is  general  among  the  Karens  ;  the  native  assistants  ant* 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  517 

missionaries  frequently  traveled  to  distribute  tracts  and  preach,  and  even  by 
those  opposed  to  their  religion,  were  generously  supplied  the  best  fare,  "with- 
out money,  and  without  price." 

Mr.  Malcolm  gives  an  account  of  the  amusing  festivities  which  usher  in 
the  Burman  New  Year  ;  this  commences  at  the  April  new  moon.  A  slight 
bamboo  palisade  about  six  feet  long,  is  erected  in  front  of  each  house  ;  this 
is  decorated  with  young  palm  trees,  and  water-pots  filled  with  a  variety  of 
beautiful  flowers,  which  gives  the  streets  the  appearance  of  charming  garden 
avenues.  An  amusing  ceremony  succeeds,  a  general  war  of  water,  in  which 
all  are  free  to  wet  whom  they  please.  Men,  women,  and  little  children,  with 
large  bamboo  syringes,  are  seen  creeping  up  slyly  to  one  another,  and  pro- 
jecting the  liquid  element  into  the  eyes  and  ears  of  their  victims,  and  then 
running  off  in  great  glee.  All  generally  take  it  in  fine  sport,  and  none 
escape  getting  thoroughly  wet.  The  meaning  of  this  custom  is  unknown  ;  it 
probably  originated  in  some  notions  of  purification  from  old  sins,  and  enter- 
ing cleansed  upon  the  New  Year. 

The  scenery  about  Maulmain  is  romantic  ;  many  small  mountains  rise  up 
abruptly  from  the  level  fields,  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  are 
nearly  as  large  at  their  summits,  as  at  their  bases.  As  in  most  parts  of  Bur- 
mah,  Boodhist  zeal  has  erected  pagodas  on  the  hill -tops,  whose  white  forms 
are  a  striking  feature  in  the  landscape.  In  most  of  the  mountains  are  caves 
which  have  been  used  for  religious  purposes.  The  wealth  and  labor  shown 
in  these,  evince  that  the  country  was  once  densely  populated.  Mr.  Malcolm 
visited  three  of  the  most  remarkable,  the  last,  on  the  river  bank  below  Maul- 
main. "  The  entrance,"  says  he,  "  is  at  the  bottom  of  a  perpendicular 
but  uneven  face  of  the  mountain,  inclosed  in  a  strong  brick  wall,  which 
forms  a  large  vestibule.  The  entrance  to  this  inclosure  is  by  a  path,  winding 
along  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ;  and  nothing  remarkable  strikes  the  eye  till 
one  passes  the  gate,  where  the  attention  is  at  once  powerfully  arrested.  Not 
only  is  the  space  within  the  wall  filled  with  images  of  Gaudama  of  every 
size,  but  the  whole  face  of  the  mountain,  to  the  height  of  eighty  or  ninety 
feet,  is  covered  with  them.  On  every  jutting  crag  stands  some  marble  image, 
covered  with  gold,  and  spreading  its  uncouth  proportions  to  the  setting  sun. 
Every  recess  is  converted  into  shrines  for  others.  The  smooth  surfaces  are 
covered  by  small  flat  images  in  burnt  clay,  and  set  in  stucco.  Of  these  last, 
there  are  literally  thousands.  In  some  places,  they  have  fallen  off,  with  the 
plaster  in  which  they  were  set,  and  left  spots  of  niked  rock,  against  which 
bees  have  built  their  hives  undisturbed.  Nowhere  in  the  country  have  I 
seen  such  a  display  of  wealth,  ingenuity,  and  industry.  But  imposing  as  is 
this  spectacle,  it  shrinks  to  insignificance,  compared  to  the  scene  which  opens 
on  entering  the  cavern  itself.  It  is  of  vast  size,  chiefly  in  one  apartment, 
which  needs  no  human  art  to  render  it  sublime.  The  eye  is  confused,  and 
the  heart  appalled,  at  the  prodigious  exhibition  of  infatuation  and  folly. 
Everywhere,  on  the  floor  over-head,  on  the  jutting  points,  and  on  the  stal- 
actite festoons  of  the  roof,  are  crowded  together  images  of  Gaudama — the 
offerings  of  successive  ages.  Some  are  perfectly  gilded  ;  others  incrusted 
with  calcareous  matter ;  some  fallen,  yet  sound  :  others  mouldered  ;  others 


518  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

just  erected.  Some  of  these  are  of  stupendous  size  ;  some  not  larger  than 
one's  finger ;  and  some  of  all  the  intermediate  sizes  ;  marble,  stone,  wood, 
brick,  and  clay.  Some,  even  of  marble,  are  so  time-worn,  though  sheltered 
of  course  from  changes  of  temperature,  that  the  face  and  fingers  are  oblite- 
rated. In  some  dark  recesses,  bats  were  heard,  and  seemed  numerous,  but 
could  not  be  seen.  Here  and  there  are  models  of  temples,  kyoungs,  Bur- 
mese monasteries,  etc.,  some  not  larger  than  a  half  bushel,  some  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  square,  absolutely  filled  with  small  idols,  heaped  promiscuously  one  upon 
another.  As  we  followed  the  paths  which  wound  among  the  groups  of 
figures  and  models,  every  new  aspect  of  the  cave  presented  new  multitudes 
of  images.     A  ship  of  five  hundred  tons  could  not  carry  away  the  half  of 

The  Burmans  are  not  so  devoted  to  their  religion  as  formerly,  and  things 
are  evidently  preparing  for  some  change.  Still  Boodhism  is  not  neglected  ; 
new  pagodas  are  continually  erected  in  every  part  of  the  city  of  Maulmain, 
and  within  it  are  twenty-nine  kyoungs  or  monasteries,  with  more  than  500 
priests,  novitiates,  who  are  well  supported.  In  the  city  and  vicinity,  are 
seventy-eight  pagodas,  and  scattered  about  is  the  sacred  banyan  tree,  which 
at  night  is  often  illuminated  with  lamps. 

Maulmain  is  the  capital  of  British  Burmah.  It  is  garrisoned  with  English 
troops,  and  is  the  residence  of  the  governor.  This  city  is  the  principal  point 
of  the  Baptist  mission  in  Burmah  ;  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Malcolm's  visit,  it  con- 
tained four  missionaries,  a  printing  office,  and  several  houses  for  worship. 
The  printing  office  was  of  brick,  two  stories  high,  and  136  feet  long.  The 
upper  rooms  were  devoted  to  a  bindery.  All  the  printing  and  binding,  was 
done  by  natives.  The  mission  church  and  school  were  very  prosperous,  and 
many  of  the  children  showed  remarkable  proficiency  in  acquiring  knowledge. 
The  influence  of  the  English  has  greatly  improved  the  Burmese,  whose  in- 
cessant internal  wars  kept  them  in  a  wretched  situation. 

On  the  14th  of  May,  Mr.  Malcolm  embarked  for  Rangoon,  about  one 
hundred  miles  west  of  Maulmain.  It  is  the  only  seaport  in  Burmah,  and 
was  formerly  a  conspicuous  place  in  the  Baptist  mission.  It  has  considerable 
commerce,  and  contains  about  50,000  inhabitants;  it  is  mostly  a  mere  col- 
lection of  bamboo  huts,  which  answer  well  for  the  people  and  climate.  All 
necessaries  are  very  cheap;  rice,  twelve  cents  a  bushel,  black  tea,  which  comes 
down  the  Irrawaddy  from  China,  twelve  cents  a  pound,  and  many  British 
manufactures  about  the  c.ame  as  in  Boston.  The  celebrated  pagoda  Shoo-da- 
gon,  surmounts  an  eminence  near  the  city,  amid  a  cluster  of  smaller  pagodas, 
handsome  zayats,  and  kyoungs,  and  many  noble  trees.  The  hill  is  divided 
into  successive  terraces,  supported  by  brick  walls,  and  has  a  level  summit 
of  two  acres.  "  The  two  principal  approaches,"  says  our  traveler,  "  from 
the  city  are  lined  on  each  side,  for  miles,  with  fine  pagodas,  some  almost 
vying  for  size  with  Shoodagon  itself.  These  are  in  every  state  of  repair ; 
from  beautiful  white  new  ones  to  mere  grass-grown  heaps. 

Passing  these  on  your  way  from  the  city,  you  come  to  a  flight  of  time 
worn  steps,  covered  by  a  curious  arcade  of  little  houses  of  various  forms  and 
Bizes,  one  above  another,  some  in  partial  decay,  ethers  truly  beautiful.     Afte* 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  519 

crossing  some  terraces,  covered  in  the  same  manner,  you  reach  the  top,  and 
passing  a  great  gate,  enter  at  once  this  sad  but  imposing  theater  of  Gau- 
dama's  glory.  Before  you  stands  the  huge  Shoodagon,  its  top  among  the 
clouds,  and  its  golden  sides  blazing  in  the  glories  of  an  Eastern  sun.  Around 
are  pompous  zayats,  noble  pavements,  Gothic  mausoleums,  uncouth  colossal 
lions,  curious  stone  umbrellas,  gracefully  cylindrical  banners  of  gold-embroi- 
dered muslin  hanging  from  lofty  pillars,  enormous  stone  jars  in  rows  to 
receive  offerings,  tapers  burning  before  the  images,  exquisite  flowers  displayed 
on  every  side,  filling  the  air  with  fragrance,  and  a  multitude  of  carved  figures 
oi  idols,  worshipers,  griffins,  guardians,  etc. 

Always,  in  the  morning,  men  and  women  are  seen  in  every  direction  kneel- 
ing behind  their  gift,  and  with  uplifted  hands  reciting  their  devotions,  often 
with  a  string  of  beads  counting  over  each  repetition  ;  aged  persons  sweep  out 
every  place,  or  pick  the  grass  from  the  crevices  ;  dogs  and  crows  straggle 
around  the  altars,  and  devour  the  recent  offerings  ;  the  great  bells  utter  their 
frequent  tones  ;  and  the  mutter  of  praying  voices  makes  a  hum  like  the 
buzzing  of  an  exchange.  Of  inferior  pagodas  (though  some  surpass  in  siz' 
any  I  have  seen  elsewhere),  there  are,  in  Rangoon,  more  than  five  hundred, 
occupying  as  much  space  as  the  city  itself,  probably  more.  Most  of  them 
stand  a  little  out  of  the  city,  interspersed  with  groves,  embowering  costly 
kyoungs  and  commodious  zayats.  The  latter  are  particularly  numerous,  to 
accommodate  the  hosts  of  worshipers  who  resort  hither  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  hill  are  150  families  of  "  slaves  of  the  pagoda,"  con- 
taining about  two  hundred  men,  and,  as  their  chief  told  me,  "  plenty  of 
women."  They  do  not  appear  to  be  poor  or  despised,  and  their  quarter  of 
the  city  is  not  distinguished  by  any  particular  feature.  They  become  so,  not 
always  because  of  crime,  but  often  by  merely  incurring  the  displeasure  of  a 
great  man  ;  or  he  gives  them  as  an  act  of  piety.  Most  of  them  are  so  by 
birth,  for  the  progeny  of  such  persons  are  forever  in  the  same  condition. 
They  are  not  allowed  to  marry,  except  among  themselves." 

Some  native  assistants  accompanied  Mr.  Malcolm  to  Rangoon,  and  aided 
him  in  distributing  tracts.  The  day  succeeding  his  arrival  his  assistants  seated 
themselves  on  their  mats  under  his  window,  with  their  heaps  of  tracts,  and 
quickly  gathered  an  audience,  which  they  continued  daily,  frequently  having 
twenty  or  thirty  to  listen  or  to  dispute.  The  support  of  a  family  here  is  so 
easy  that  plenty  of  leisure  is  afforded  to  all. 

On  the  14th  of  June,  Mr.  Malcolm  embarked  in  his  boat  for  Ava,  the  capi- 
tal of  Burmah,  on  the  Irrawaddy — the  great  river  of  Burmah — some  four 
hundred  miles  north  of  Rangoon.  The  country  was  flat,  the  villages  conti- 
nually in  sight,  and  the  lands  cultivated  in  rice.  Ten  days'  diligent  progress 
carried  them  beyond  the  vast  delta  of  the  Irrawaddy.  The  weather  was 
delightful,  and  our  traveler  found  it  occasionally  pleasant  to  stop  and  walk 
along  the  shore,  through  the  beautiful  groves  of  mango,  tamarind  and  palm 
trees  between  the  villages.  The  cultivators  of  the  soil  in  Burmah  reside  alto- 
gether in  villages,  as  a  protection  against  wild  beasts  and  robbers,  and  such  a 
thing  as  a  ietached  farm  is  unknown. 


520  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

At  one  place  they  entered  a  little  hamlet  allotted  to  lepers,  five  of  whomv 
as  they  approached,  seated  themselves  by  the  roadside,  and  humbly  begged 
alms.  Although  pale  and  haggard,  they  were  cheerful,  and  without  pain,  as 
this  disease  occasions  suffering  only  in  its  early  stages.  Four  of  them  had 
lost  nearly  all  their  toes  and  all  their  fingers. 

Everywhere  around  indigo  was  growing,  and  large  jars,  in  which  it  is 
steeped,  often  stood  in  rows  on  the  river  bank,  and  at  the  villages  immense 
quantities  of  cotton  cloth,  which  was  being  dyed,  were  seen  suspended  from 
the  trees.  Up  to  near  this  point  the  country  had  been  one  interminable 
treeless  level,  covered  with  grass  and  rice.  Now  the  scenery  was  beautifully 
diversified  ;  handsomely  curving  hills,  richly  cultivated  fenced  fields,  noble 
trees,  among  which  rose  the  graceful  tamarind  ;  horses,  with  cattle,  hogs, 
and  fowls,  and  numerous  birds.  Still  beyond,  cities  and  towns  lined  the 
shores,  fine  forests  clothed  the  hills,  and  the  scenery  was  of  unsurpassed 
beauty. 

They  passed  an  astonishing  number  of  trading-boats,  frequently  hundreds 
in  a  day,  laden  principally  with  rice,  salt,  and  gnappee,  which  is  a  condi- 
ment for  rice,  made  of  half-salted  fish,  shrimps,  etc.,  pounded  to  the  consist- 
ency of  mortar,  and  to  Europeans  of  a  most  repulsive  smell.  The  largest  car- 
ried cargoes  of  ten  or  twelve  thousand  bushels  of  rice,  which  sailed  when  the 
wind  was  fair,  at  other  times  were  drawn  by  the  hands  with  a  rope  from 
shore,  or  propelled  by  setting-poles. 

The  hardihood,  skill,  and  good  nature  of  the  Burmese  boatmen  is  remark- 
able, and  their  boats  well  adapted  to  the  river.  In  ascending,  setting-poles 
are  in  almost  continual  use.  These  are  of  almost  solid  and  straight  bamboo, 
and  not  as  with  us  put  to  the  front  of  the  shoulder,  but  either  above  the  col- 
lar bone,  or  on  top  of  the  shoulder,  the  boatman  bending  forward  till  his 
hands  reach  the  deck,  by  which  the  resistance  is  brought  perpendicular  to 
the  spine,  and  much  more  power  exerted  than  in  any  other  way.  Our  mode 
is  adopted  when  only  little  exertion  is  wanted.  Owing  to  the  shifting  nature 
of  the  channel  the  boats  are  continually  grounding,  when  the  men,  who  seem 
almost  amphibious,  spring  overboard  to  shove  off.  "  The  strength  and  energy 
with  which  they  surmount  difficulties,"  says  Mr.  Malcolm,  "  transcend  any- 
thing I  ever  saw  among  the  boatmen  of  our  western  waters,  and  in  tempei 
and  morality  they  are  immeasurably  superior.  In  this  trip  and  in  others,  I 
never  saw  a  quarrel,  or  heard  a  hard  word.  Cross  accidents  have  occurred, 
and  we  frequently  were  entangled  with  other  boats  ;  but  all  difficulties  were 
met  and  surmounted  with  good  temper  and  even  hilarity." 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  river,  they  found  the  palmyra,  or  toddy  tree, 
abundant.  The  sap,  or  toddy,  is  usually  drank  fresh,  and  is  then  sweet  and 
wholesome.  By  standing  a  few  hours  it  ferments,  and  is  more  intoxicating 
than  wine  ;  but  the  Burmans,  who  are  a  very  temperate  people,  then  seldom 
drink  it,  and  almost  never  to  intoxication. 

As  our  traveler  progressed  up  the  river,  and  entered  the  villages,  he  was 
amused  at  the  consternation  of  the  people,  many  of  whom  in  him,  for  the 
first  time,  saw  a  white  man.  The  dogs  barked  unusually  fierce,  and  ran, 
and  frequently  a  herd  of  Burmese  buffaloes  scampered  off  in  affright  at  his 


LIFE  IN"  INDIA.  521 

white  face  and  dress.  Not  unfrequently  a  whole  family  would  run  away 
from  their  house  in  terror  as  he  entered.  Often,  as  he  walked  along  the 
bank,  and  by  turning  a  corner,  he  suddenly  encountered  young  girls  drawing 
water  ;  such  always  dropped  their  pots,  and  fled  like  startled  fawns.  Those 
too  old  to  be  terrified,  regarded  him  as  a  curiosity.  They  turned  up  his 
pantaloons,  admired  the  seamless  stockings,  felt  under  his  vest,  and  wondered 
at  his  many  garments.  They  were  very  polite,  looking  upon  him  as  a  supe- 
rior being.  They  were  remarkably  considerate  not  to  offend  him,  and  if,  on 
showing  his  watch,  pencil-case,  or  anything  which  particularly  attracted  them, 
where  there  were  more  than  could  well  see,  the  outer  ones  waited  until  their 
turn,  and  if  he  was  in  haste,  quietly  desisted. 

After  a  voyage  of  three  weeks,  they  arrived  within  sight  of  the  "  golden 
city."  During  their  voyage  up  they  had  visited  and  distributed  tracts  in 
eighty-two  towns,  cities,  and  villages  ;  supplied  six  hundred  and  fifty-seven 
boats,  many  of  them  with  families,  and  from  fifteen  to  thirty  men.  Near  sun- 
down it  was  their  custom  to  moor  at  a  village,  when  the  assistants  collected 
the  people,  and  passed  the  evening  in  preaching  and  discoursing  on  religious 
topics.  Such  was  the  avidity  of  the  people  to  obtain  the  tracts,  that  their 
boat  was  frequently  so  crowded  with  applicants  that  they  had  scarcely  time  for 
eating  or  sleeping.  This  arose  not  from  a  desire  to  learn  the  new  religion, 
but  from  curiosity  to  see  a  tract,  which  was  novel  to  them  in  all  respects — 
in  the  shape,  the  printing,  and  the  paper — their  own  books  being  of  palm- 
leaves,  or  black  pasteboard,  and  upon  which  the  words  are  written  with  a 
steatite  pencil. 

Our  traveler  remained  a  month  in  Ava.  It  is  inclosed  by  a  wall  twenty 
feet  high,  and  seven  miles  in  circumference.  Within  is  a  large  walled  area, 
containing  the  palace,  hall  of  justice,  council-house,  and  noblemen's  residences. 
The  numerous  pagodas,  with  their  white  and  gilded  spires,  in  a  distant  view, 
give  tho  city  an  imposing  aspect ;  but  aside  from  these  it  has  little  worth 
seeing. 

He  early  visited  a  kyoung  or  monastery  erected  by  the  king.  It  consisted 
of  three  immense  edifices  connected  by  galleries,  the  roofs  possessing  the 
royal  and  sacred  peculiarity  of  successive  stages,  one  above  another.  Every 
part,  both  externally  and  internally,  roofs  and  floors,  were  handsomely 
carved  and  gilded,  the  whole  producing  a  gorgeous  effect.  He  had  an  inter- 
view with  the  president,  in  a  vast  apartment,  with  lofty  pillars.  He  was 
reclining  in  front  of  the  principal  idol,  on  the  floor  in  the  midst  of  his  books 
and  writing-materials.  His  manners  were  modest,  frank  and  sensible,  and  he 
was  apparently  much  gratified  to  see  and  converse  with  them.  In  the  mean- 
while a  young  priest  entered  and  worshiped  the  president  just  as  if  he  had 
been  an  idol,  and  on  leaving  gave  him  a  handsome  bouquet.  This  he  laid 
on  a  vase  among  others  in  like  manner  received.  In  the  city  are  numerous 
monasteries — which  are  in  fact  priests'  colleges — and  twenty  thousand  priests. 
These  buildings  are  inclosed  by  walls  and  adorned  by  pleasant  groves. 

The  king's  palace  is  composed  of  almost  a  hundred  wooden  buildings, 
standing  on  an  area  of  near  a  quarter  of  a  mile  square,  the  roofs  being  in  the 
roy%l  style  of  architecture.     The  audience  hall  is  a  sumptuous  structure ;  its 


522  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

roof  is  supported  by  tall,  richly-carved  pillars,  and  every  part  of  the  building 
is  dazzling  with  gold.  The  roof,  195  feet  high,  ascends  like  a  steeple,  and 
in  many  successive  stages.  The  boats  of  the  king  and  of  the  nobility,  are 
all  gilt,  not  excepting  the  oars. 

Ava  is  laid  out  in  square  blocks,  and  the  streets,  although  not  paved,  are 
broad,  straight,  and  clean.  Bullocks  are  used  for  transportation,  and  to 
draw  the  bamboo  carriages  of  the  wealthy  ;  instead  of  seats  the  floors  of 
these  vehicles  are  covered  with  handsome  cushions  or  mats.  The  bullocks 
trot  along  quite  briskly,  with  bells  around  their  necks,  jingling  cheerfully  as 
they  go.  The  nobility  generally  reside  in  a  brick  building  surrounded  by  the 
smaller  tenements  of  their  servants,  in  the  center  of  a  square  with  pleasant 
gardens  and  fruit-trees  often  attached. 

Ava  has  about  100,000  inhabitants,  and  its  numerous  shops  contain  almosf 
all  articles  of  foreign  merchandise.  In  boat  building,  sculpture,  gilding, 
and  basket  making,  the  people  are  as  ingenious  as  our  own  ;  near  the  town  is 
a  bridge  which  evinces  architectural  skill  of  a  high  order.  Like  the  Chinese, 
the  Burmese  have  no  idea  of  perspective  and  their  best  paintings  do  not  sur- 
pass the  daubs  intended  as  ornaments,  on  the  wooden  clocks  of  Connecticut. 

Mr.  Malcolm,  in  company  with  the  missionaries  of  the  place,  visited  Prince 
Mek-a-ra,  son  of  the  late  king,  and  was  very  politely  received.  He  was  the 
most  literary  man  in  Burmah;  he  read  English,  was  versed  in  geography,  and 
mathematics,  and  his  library,  among  several  other  English  works,  contained 
a  set  of  Rees'  Cyclopedia.  Mathematics  was  his  favorite  science,  and  he  re- 
jected everything  not  capable  of  a  mathematical  demonstration.  Though  by 
no  means  bigoted,  he  appeared  to  be  attached  to  the  religion  of  his  fathers. 
One  of  the  missionaries  gave  him  Gallaudet's  work  on  the  Soul,  which  had 
been  translated  at  Maulmain.  He  received  it  thankfully,  but  remarked,  he 
could  not  believe  its  arguments  unless  as  plain  as  that  twice  two  equals  four. 
Mr.  Malcolm  remarked  that  its  evidence  was  of  a  different  nature,  and  in 
vain  tried  to  make  him  comprehend  the  difference  between  a  mathematical 
and  a  moral  certainty.  Finally  he  requested  the  prince  to  take  his  pencil,  and 
by  ciphering,  prove  he  was  not  a  dead  man  !  For  an  instant  he  appeared 
entirely  nonplused,  and  then  burst  into  a  laugh.  After  a  little,  he  compre- 
hended the  idea,  and  agreed  to  peruse  the  work  studiously. 

Among  the  other  of  the  leading  characters,  Mr.  Malcolm  visited  the 
brother  of  the  king,  who  has  since  ascended  the  throne.  He  received  him 
with  great  politeness ;  in  conversation,  his  face  lighted  up  with  unusual 
animation.  Our  traveler  found  him  to  be  a  very  strong  minded  man,  and  of 
extensive  information.  He  spoke  highly  of  our  country,  and  his  comments 
upon  the  institutions  of  foreign  nations,  indicated  sound  judgment  and 
reflection. 

Mr.  Malcolm  arrived  at  Calcutta  on  the  20th  of  September,  1836,  after  a 
hot  and  disagreeable  passage  in  a  small  schooner,  from  Rangoon.  As  they 
ascended  the  Hoogly — one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Ganges — there  was  much  to 
interest  him.  At  first  fishermen's  villages,  and  scattered  huts,  tropical  trees, 
fields  of  sugar-cane,  broad  level  rice- fields,  and  a  universal  greenness  ap- 
peared on  every  side.     Still  further  up,  a  superb  array  of  country  seats  of 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  523 

mingled  Grecian  and  Oriental  architecture,  lifted  their  white  columns  to  the 
sky,  amid  magnificent  trees.  Nearing  the  city,  innumerable  boats  covered 
the  river,  of  every  conceivable  form,  peopled  by  a  mixed  medley  of  all  nations, 
in  every  variety  of  costume,  and  speaking  a  dozen  different  languages. 
Before  the  town  innumerable  vessels  were  at  anchor ;  steam  engines  poured 
forth  from  their  towering  chimnies  immense  volumes  of  smoke  ;  beautiful 
stairs  sloped  into  the  stream;  palankeens,  tonjons,  buggies,  coaches,  phaetons, 
gares,  coanches,  and  hackeries,  lined  tLc  shore,  and  before  them  was  spread 
out  the  great  capital  of  British  India,  lining  the  shore  for  more  than  six  miles 
and  containing  half  a  million  of  souls.  Our  traveler  having  found  comfort- 
able quarters  in  Calcutta,  we  leave  him  awhile  to  dwell  somewhat  at  length 
upon  the  country,  its  people,  and  peculiarities. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Description  of  Hindoostan — Productions — Animal  life — Historical  survey — Races  of  Hin- 
doostan — Fire  worshiping  Ghebers — Religion  of  Zoroaster — Hindoo  Castes — Religion  of 
Brahma — Transmigration — Religious  Books — Literature — Manners  and  Customs — Trades 
and  Occupations — The  Malay  Peninsula — Siam — Railroads  in  Hindoostan. 

The  whole  northern  boundary  of  Hindoostan,  is  formed  by  the  Himalayas, 
and  the  whole  southern  is  circumscribed  by  the  Indian  ocean ;  its  area  is 
about  twenty  times  that  of  the  state  of  Virginia,  or  1,250,000  square  miles. 
The  gigantic  ranges  of  the  Himalayas — one  of  the  sublimest  features  on  our 
globe — rising  to  the  height  of  27,000  feet,  or  over  five  miles,  cover  its  north- 
ern part.  Southward,  for  many  miles,  their  ramifications  divide  the  country 
into  a  succession  of  lofty  mountains  and  deep  valleys,  with  vegetation  of  re- 
markable stateliness,  variety,  and  beauty,  and  a  profusion  of  flowers.  It  is 
here  that  the  great  rivers  of  India,  the  Ganges  and  the  Indus,  have  their 
rise.  Among  these  mountains  are  waterfalls  unequaled,  one  of  which,  on 
the  Carawooty,  has  a  fall  of  1 1 50  feet,  or  near  four  times  that  of  Niagara. 

The  great  plains  of  India  extend  south  of  this  region  over  thousands  of  miles. 
A  large  portion  of  central  Hindoostan  is  composed  of  valleys  and  table-lands. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  regions  in  the  country,  is  the  Great  Desert,  or 
"the  Region  of  Death,"  comprising  an  area  equal  to  the  three  states  of  New 
York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Virginia.  On  the  west  it  is  traversed  by  the  Indus, 
and  on  the  east  by  the  Loonee.  Traveling  through  its  sandy  wastes,  is  very 
difficult.     Of  the  whole  of  Hindoostan  one-third  is  jungle  or  waste. 

Hindoostan  is  one  of  the  richest  countries  known,  in  mineral  wealth,  aside 
from  coal,  tin,  copper,  iron  and  marble,  the  precious  metals,  gold  and  silver 
exist,  also,  rubies,  garnets,  amethysts,  cornelian,  jasper,  etc.,  are  found  in 
many  places,  and  diamonds  in  Puna,  and  the  extinct  kingdom  of  Golconda. 

The  climate  is  characterized  by  extreme  heat ;  but  this  is  modified  by  cir- 
cumstances. The  greater  part  of  the  country  being  in  the  tropics,  it  has  in 
general  a  tropical  climate,  and  the  year  is  divided  into  the  wet  and  dry 
seasons.  The  abrupt  elevations  of  portions  of  it,  give  it  a  corresponding 
change  of  temperature,  so  that  while  the  plains  are  burnt  up  by  intolerable 


524  LIFE  IN  I^MA. 

heat,  the  mountains  that  overlook  them  are  crowned  with  eternal  snows. 
Between  these  extremes  the  climate  is  delightful.  The  most  remarkable 
peculiarity  is  the  periodical  changes  of  the  wind,  which  blows  alternately  foi 
nearly  half  the  year  in  opposite  directions,  and  are  termed  monsoons.  In  the 
southern  peninsular,  the  setting  in  of  the  monsoons  is  accompanied  by  terrible 
hurricanes.  In  the  dry  season  the  atmosphere  is  loaded  with  dense  vapors, 
through  which  the  sun  scare  can  penetrate,  and  vegetation  ia  under  a  deadly 
languor,  and  if  prolonged,  most  distressing  droughts  ensue.  When  the  rainy 
season  commences,  it  rains  often  for  a  fortnight  without  cessation,  sometimes 
causing  the  streams  to  overflow  the  country,  and  drown  thousands  of 
inhabitants.  In  summer,  the  heat  is  so  intense  during  the  day  that 
it  is  unsafe  for  the  stranger  to  leave  his  house  without  the  shelter  of  a 
carriage,  a  palanquin  or  an  umbrella.  Not  unfre^uently  in  southern  India 
the  heat  is  such,  that  birds  drop  down  dead.  Even  the  shade  of  a  tent  is 
insufficient,  the  heat  so  striking  through  the  canvas,  that  travelers  compelled 
to  pass  the  day  in  them,  are  obliged  to  crawl  beneath  the  additional  shade  of 
the  cot  or  table  to  protect  themselves. 

As  a  protection  against  the  heat,  the  dwellings  of  foreigners  are  built  in  the 
most  airy  situations,  with  lofty  ceilings  and  wide  verandahs.  Venetian  blinds 
alone  cover  the  windows,  and  bamboo  mats  the  floors,  as  carpets  are  too 
warm,  and  attract  snakes,  scorpions,  and  ugly  vermin.  Immense  grass  fans, 
called  punkahs,  are  suspended  from  the  ceiling,  and  kept  in  motion  by  a  ser- 
vant, and  mats,  which  are  continually  kept  wet,  are  hung  outside  of  the  door 
and  windows.  With  all  these  precautions,  human  life  is  held  by  a  brittle 
thread.  The  marshes  of  the  Ganges  are  the  original  seat  of  the  Asiatic  cholera, 
from  whence  it  spread  its  pestilential  breath  to  the  furthest  limits  of  the 
world.  As  a  contrast  to  the  violence  of  the  monsoon,  and  the  unpleasant 
effect  of  the  hot  winds,  there  is  sometimes  a  voluptuousness  in  the  climate,  an 
indescribable  softness,  which  soothes  the  mind,  and  creates  the  most  delight- 
ful sensations. 

The  most  important  vegetable  productions  of  India  are  cotton,  indigo, 
sugar-cane,  cajeput  oil,  sarsaparilla,  jalap,  dyes  of  various  kinds,  cartouche, 
coffee,  opium,  hemp,  tobacco,  (equal  to  Havana),  rice,  wheat,  barley,  pep- 
per, ginseng,  sandal-wood,  spikenard,  gigantic  palms,  and  bamboo,  the  lattei 
of  which  shoots  up  sixty  feet  in  a  single  season.  The  thick  jungles  of  bamboo 
cover  large  portions  of  the  country,  and  preventing  the  circulation  of  air, 
make  the  surrounding  regions  unwholesome. 

Potatoes  have  lately  been  introduced,  and  being  much  liked  by  the  natives, 
the  cultivation  is  rapidly  extending.  European  skill  and  capital  are  now  to 
a  large  extent  applied  to  the  production  of  indigo,  opium,  and  tea,  all  of  which 
can  be  grown  to  any  extent  in  Upper  Assam.  Silk  is  also  an  important  arti- 
cle. In  1836,  no  less  than  nineteen  millions  of  dollars  worth  of  opium  was 
smuggled  from  India  into  China. 

In  the  hilly  countries  of  the  north-west,  all  the  fruits  of  temperate  climes, 
as  apples,  pears,  grapes,  strawberries,  etc.,  are  now  reared  in  abundance.  The 
most  remarkable  vegetable  production  of  Hindoostan  is  the  banyan  tree,  the 
branches  of  which  send  out  shoots  which  fall  to  the  ground,  and  taking  root> 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  525 

in  time  become  large  stems,  and  form  a  grove  around  the  parent  stem.  The 
natives  regard  this  tree  as  sacred,  believing  that  their  God  Vishnoo  was  born 
beneath  it  :  near  it  temples  are  erected,  and  under  it  are  placed  idols.  A 
noble  specimen  of  this  venerated  tree  stands  on  the  banks  of  the  Neebudda, 
which  measures  two  thousand  feet  around  the  principal  stems,  and  has  grow- 
ing under  it  a  number  of  fruit-trees.  This  magnificent  pavilion  affords  a 
shelter  to  all  travelers,  and  is  generally  filled  with  a  variety  of  birds,  snakes, 
and  monkeys.  In  the  march  of  an  army  this  tree  has  been  known  to  shelter 
seven  thousand  persons  under  its  outspreading  branches. 

The  most  extensive  and  luxuriant  valley  in  the  world,  covering  near  a  half 
million  of  square  miles,  is  that  of  the  Ganges.  In  the  dry  season,  the  river, 
like  most  of  those  of  Southern  India,  is  but  a  mere  brook,  the  bed  of  the 
stream  extending-  each  side  like  a  desert  of  arid  sand.  The  rivers  being  an 
uncertain  reliance  for  agricultural  purposes,  immense  tanks,  or  artificial  lakes, 
are  constructed,  banked  with  clay  and  sods,  sometimes  several  miles  in  length, 
which  are  filled  during  the  rainy  season.  Gates  are  made  in  their  sides,  by 
which  the  water  is  let  out,  and  the  adjoining  country  irrigated.  Without 
these  the  fields  would  be  barren,  and  man  and  beast  perish.  Large  wells 
in  some  places  are  also  used  for  irrigation.  A  sweep  or  pecotah  is  used  to 
draw  water  from  the  wells  and  tanks.  The  mechanism  is  very  simple.  On 
the  top  of  an  upright  pole  is  a  cross  beam,  from  which  is  suspended  a  bucket ; 
one  man  walks  to  and  fro  upon  the  pole,  which  rises,  and  leaves  the  bucket,  and 
another  empties  the  water  into  troughs  which  lead  to  every  bed.  A  pleasant 
song  accompanies  this  labor,  almost  the  first  sound  a  foreigner  hears  on  land- 
ing,' and  the  last  he  forgets. 

Hindoostan  produces  many  of  the  most  interesting  forms  of  animal  life.  The 
elephant  ranges  wild  in  large  herds,  in  the  deep  forests  and  jungles  of  the  east 
and  south,  and  is  domesticated  throughout  the  Peninsula,  where  it  is  alike 
used  for  labor  and  to  swell  the  gorgeous  parade  of  the  court,  religious  pro- 
cessions, and  marriage  festivities.  The  rhinoceros  is  found  in  Bengal,  the 
camel  in  the  northwest,  where  it  is  the  ordinary  beast  of  burden  ;  and  among 
the  mountains  and  forests,  in  certain  parts,  a  great  variety  of  deer,  also  lions 
and  tigers,  panthers,  leopards  of  great  size  and  ferocity,  antelopes,  wild  boars, 
hyenas,  foxes,  squirrels,  hares,  porcupines,  hedgehogs,  bears,  wolves,  wild 
dogs,  and  the  buffaloe.  Monkeys  are  met  with  in  great  variety,  alike  in 
town  and  country,  and  have  multiplied  to  a  vast  extent  through  the  super- 
stition of  the  Hindoos,  who  consider  them  as  sacred  animals,  and  even  erect 
magnificent  and  gorgeous  temples  to  their  honor,  and  endow  hospitals 
for  these  chattering  and  amusing  creatures.  At  Ahmenabad  are  three  of 
these  institutions,  where  the  sick  and  lame  monkeys  are  fed  and  nursed  by 
salaried  attendants.  These  animals  abuse  their  privileges,  and  become 
fruitful  sources  of  mischief.  They  pluck  the  flowers  and  fruits,  and  break 
orf  the  branches  of  garden  trees,  and  destroy  the  roofs  of  houses,  all  of  which 
is  suffered  without  hinderance  or  complaint.  Devotees  are  often  seen  feeding 
the  impudent  creatures,  and  the  common  people  sharing  their  meals  with 
them. 

The  native  horse  is  but  a  small,  ugly,  vicious  pony;  the  a?abian  horse  is 


596  LTFE  IN  INDTA 

imported  m  large  numbers.  On  tne  sandy  deserts  of  Che  wesi,  wild  asses 
roam  in  herds,  and  in  the  south  are  several  varieties,  used  for  domestic  pur- 
poses. Among  the  Himalayas  the  Yak,  or  Tartar  ox,  is  numerous,  and  con- 
stitutes, after  corn,  the  chief  wealth  of  the  people;  there  are  also  several  varie- 
ties of  beeves,  one  of  which,  the  Brahminee  bull,  is  consecrated  when  a  calf  to 
the  divinity  Siva,  and  is  so  sacredly  regarded  that  the  natives  think  that  to 
inflict  a  blow  upon  it  will  cause  the  divine  displeasure.  The  jackal  is  pro- 
minent among  the  canine  species,  and  its  screams  at  night,  when  just  heard 
by  the  stranger,  has  often  aroused  his  sympathies,  from  its  exact  resemblance 
to  the  cries  of  a  woman  in  distress. 

The  heat  and  moisture  of  the  climate  give  incredible  activity  to  swarms  of 
noxious  and  troublesome  insects,  as  well  as  to  those  of  a  more  showy  class, 
whose  large  wings  surpass  in  brilliancy  the  most  splendid  colors  of  art. 

"Let  a  house  remain  closed  for  a  few  weeks,  and  upon  opening  the  door  and 
windows,  the  reader,  were  he  here,  would  observe  several  things  which 
would  startle,  if  not  terrify  him.  Turning  his  eye  upward  to  the  ceiling  he 
would  see  two,  three,  or  more  lizards  seemingly  ready  to  make  a  descent 
upon  him.  Looking  downward  he  would  observe  the  mat  covered  with 
innumerable  tiny  black  ants,  moving  in  all  directions  with  business-like  order 
and  speed.  If  there  be  a  table  in  the  room  he  would  notice  the  upright  post 
provided  with  an  encircling  brass  cup,  into  which  water  or  oil  may  be  poured, 
and  thus  the  food  be  guarded  from  the  attacks  of  these  intruders,  and  a  like 
precaution  with  the  bedsteads,  bureaus  and  safes.  He  would  observe  the 
bookcase  standing  at  a  little  remove  from  the  wall,  to  protect  it  from  the 
ravages  of  the  white  ant,  that  marvel  in  natural  history.  Though  small,  and 
apparently  harmless,  they  are  the  most  destructive  creatures  with  which  we 
are  acquainted.  Nothing  but  stone  or  mortar  can  resist  their  power  of  devas- 
tation. Moving  just  beneath  the  surface,  mole-like,  they  enter  by  myriads  a 
table,  box  of  books,  chest  of  clothes,  or  whatever  be  left  exposed  to  their 
intrusion,  and  cease  not  their  work  of  destruction  until  nothing  is  left  but  the 
bare  shell.  Boxes  must  be  placed  upon  a  stone  or  some  metallic  substance, 
three  to  four  inches  in  height — books  must  be  bound  in  Russia  leather,  or 
often  removed  and  brushed — beams  of  dwellings  must  be  saturated  with  tar  ; 
and  all  to  guard  against  one  of  the  tiniest,  most  insignificant-looking,  and  yet 
most  formidable  of  the  animate  creation. 

Let  the  visitor  beware  how  he  lift  up  the  corner  of  the  mat  lest  the  sting  of 
a  concealed  scorpion  make  him  repent  the  incautious  act,  or  a  snake  erect  its 
threatening  crest.  Let  him  wait  till  evening  draws  on,  and  a  light  is  brought 
into  the  room,  and  if  it  be  at  the  right  season  of  the  year,  a  cloud  of  winged 
ants  will  make  their  entrance,  encircling  the  lamp  in  a  countless  swarm,  some 
just  burning  their  feet  upon  the  glass  shade,  others  more  boldly  flying  right 
into  the  crater,  there  to  meet  their  death.  In  an  hour  or  so  they  begin  to 
disappear,  leaving  their  wings  on  the  table,  and  adopting  the  more  humble 
mode  of  creeping,  like  their  less  aspiring  brethren.  Let  him  go  out  the  next 
morning,  and  the  native  lad  will  be  seen,  bag  in  band,  gathering  from  their 
hiding-places  these  wingless  visitors,  from  which  is  made  a  curry  more  deli- 
cious than  turtle   soup  to   an   alderman  !     If  he  retire   to  rest  without  the 


LIFE  IN  INDTA.  527 

shelter  of  a  muslin  hanging  surrounding  his  couch  the  mu^ic  and  fang  of  the 
musquito  will  forbid  repose.  If  upon  rising  he  take  not  the  precaution  of 
looking  into  his  shoes,  his  foot  may  come  in  contact  with  a  scorpion,  or  small 
snake.  Casting  his  eye  around  during  the  day  he  would  see  the  common  fly 
without  number.  Opening  a  drawer  a  company  of  roaches  will  manifest  theii 
terror  by  a  sudden  and  rapid  withdrawal  from  notice.  The  wasp  will  be 
seen  passing  up  and  down  the  Venetian  blind  in  search  of  food,  and  the  locust 
will  pierce  the  ear  with  its  sharp,  shrill  notes." 

Reptiles  are  exceedingly  numerous,  from  crocodiles  and  alligators,  ana- 
condas, and  boa  constrictors — some  of  the  latter  forty  and  fifty  feet  in 
length — to  the  smaller  class,  as  lizards,  scorpions,  centipedes  and  tarantulas. 
There  are  about  fifty  different  kinds  of  snakes,  among  which  is  the  terrible 
Cobra-de-capella,  or  "hooded  snake."  It  varies  from  three  to  six  feet  in 
length.  Just  below  its  forehead,  is  a  dilation  of  the  skin,  which  when  it  is 
irritated,  it  expands  and  elevates  like  a  hood.  When  angry,  it  gives  a  hiss 
and  erects  this  skin,  then  woe  to  the  person  whom  it  bites,  for  if  even  an  in- 
finitessimal  particle  of  the  concentrated  poison  enters  the  system,  death  is 
certain.  They  are  frequently  exhibited  by  jugglers,  and  the  natives  call 
them  the  "good  snake,"  and  hold  them  in  veneration. 

Of  this  kind  are  the  dancing-snakes,  which  are  carried  in  baskets,  through- 
out Hindoostan,  and  procure  a  maintenance  for  a  set  of  people  who  play  a 
few  simple  notes  on  the  flute,  with  which  the  snakes  seem  much  delighted, 
and  keep  time  by  a  graceful  motion  of  the  head  ;  erecting  about  half  their 
length  from  the  ground,  and  following  the  music  with  gentle  curves,  like  the 
undulating  lines  of  the  swan's  neck.  It  is  a  well-attested  fact,  that  when  a 
house  is  infested  with  these,  and  some  other  kinds  of  snakes,  the  musicians 
are  sent  for,  who  by  their  notes  draw  them  from  their  hiding-places,  and 
charm  them  to  destruction ;  for  no  sooner  do  the  snakes  hear  the  music,  than 
they  come  softly  from  their  retreat,  and  are  easily  taken.  These  musical 
snakes  were  doubtless  known  in  Palestine,  from  the  Psalmist  comparing  the 
ungodly  to  the  deaf  adder,  which  stoppeth  her  ears,  and  refuseth  to  hear  the 
voice  of  the  charmer,  **  charm  he  never  so  wisely." 

When  the  music  ceases,  the  snakes  appear  motionless  ;  but  if  not  immedi- 
ately covered  up  in  the  basket,  the  spectators  are  liable  to  fatal  accidents. 
Forbes,  the  oriental  traveler,  made  a  drawing  of  a  cobra-de-capella,  which 
danced  for  an  hour  on  the  table  while  he  painted  it.  Supposing  its  fangs  to 
be  extracted,  he  frequently  handled  it  to  observe  the  beauty  of  its  spots,  and 
especially  the  spectacles  on  its  head.  The  next  morning  his  servant  came  in, 
and  accosted  him  with  great  trepidation  upon  the  lucky  escape  which  he  had, 
stating  that  the  snake,  while  being  exhibited  to  some  country  people  the 
evening  previous,  had,  from  either  the  music  stopping  too  suddenly,  or  from 
some  other  cause  irritating  the  vicious  reptile,  suddenly  darted  at  the  throat 
of  a  young  woman,  and  inflicted  a  wound  of  which  she  died  in  thirty 
minutes. 

The  early  history  of  Hindoostan,  like  that  of  most  old  countries,  is  in- 
volved in  uncertainty  and  conjecture.  Sesostris,  Semiramis,  Darius,  and 
Alexander  the  Great,  by  their  successive  invasions,  first  brought  this  3ountrv 


528  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

to  the  notice  of  the  modern  world.  After  these,  India  fell  a  prey  to  Ma< 
hommedan  ambition,  which  has  exceeded  in  cruelty  everything  previously 
known. 

About  the  year  1000  Mahmoud,  king  of  Ghuznee  in  Afghanistan,  deter- 
mined to  conquer  India,  and  by  successive  invasions,  overran  the  western  pro- 
vinces, pillaged  Delhi,  and  other  cities.  On  his  return  he  held  up  to  the  ad 
miring  gaze  of  the  Ghuznee  mountaineers,  immense  treasures  of  gold,  silver, 
diamonds,  and  other  precious  stones,  which  inflamed  their  desires  to  join  in 
plundering  this  rich,  and  luxurious  land.  Ir  his  last  invasion,  he  entered 
the  village  of  Somnaut  in  Guzerat,  the  seat  ot  x  famous  temple,  connected 
with  which,  were  2,000  Brahmins,  500  dancing  girls,  and  300  musicians. 
This  venerated  place  fell  only  after  a  most  desperate  defense.  Mahmoud, 
in  a  fit  of  fanatical  zeal,  cut  off  the  nose  of  its  giant  idol,  and  then  ordered 
it  to  be  destroyed.  The  Brahmins  instantly  dropped  on  their  knees,  and  in 
suppliant  tones,  offered  an  immense  sum,  if  he  would  but  save  this  object  of 
their  strongest  veneration  ;  but  the  haughty  conqueror  indignantly  spurned 
them  from  his  presence,  exclaiming,  "  I  am  a  breaker,  not  a  buyer  of  idols," 
and  then  ordered  his  men  to  continue  on  with  its  destruction.  When  the 
interior  was  reached,  lo  !  there  was  discovered  a  vast  treasure  in  pearls, 
rubies,  and  diamonds,  to  which  the  immense  sum  just  before  offered  by  the 
Brahmins,  was  but  as  a  mere  drop.  The  Mahommedans  eventually  succeeded 
in  bringing  under  their  dominion  most  of  Eastern  India. 

"  Nothing  in  modern  times  has  equaled  the  ferocity  and  desperation  of 
these  Moslem  conquerors.  Urged  on  by  a  mad  enthusiasm,  intoxicated  with 
the  hope  of  rich  booty,  and  inspired  with  the  promise  of  beatitude,  if  they 
died  fighting  with  the  infidels,  they  sprang  like  tigers  on  their  prey.  A  fertile 
country  was  left  desolate  ;  flourishing  cities,  heaps  of  ruins  ;  palaces  were 
burnt ;  temples  pillaged,  and  rivers  sacred  to  their  fathers,  flowed  with 
blood."  In  a  single  hour  a  hundred  thousand  natives  were  massacred, 
during  the  reign  of  Tamerlane,  surnamed  the  "  destroying  prince"  Timour 
/he  "firebrand  of  the  universe"  the  greatest  wholesale  butcher  in  the  annals 
j)f  history,  marked  his  track  by  blood,  desolation,  famine,  and  pestilence. 
Nadir  Shah  slaughtered  the  citizens  of  Delhi,  regardless  of  age  or  sex — 
captured  Oude — seized  upon  the  imperial  treasures  in  jewels  and  plate,  and 
specie  alone  to  the  amount  of  ninety-five  millions  of  dollars  ;  also  the  famous 
Peacock  throne,  valued  at  five  millions,  and  other  valuables  in  immense 
quantities.  From  this  time  Moslem  power  in  India  declined.  No  longer  were 
the  people  of  whole  provinces  hunted  for  sport,  like  wild  beasts,  and  mothers 
in  excess  of  agony,  tempted  to  devour  their  offspring,  for  the  period  was 
drawing  nigh,  when  this  ill-fated  land  was  to  be  visited  by  a  people  of  a 
better  faith,  and  a  nobler  impulse.  About  the  year  1500,  the  Portuguese 
having  then  for  the  first  time  doubled  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  landed 
at  Calicut,  and  founded  a  commercial  empire  of  a  hundred  years'  duration, 
and  surpassing  everything  previously  known  in  history,  in  splendor.  One 
century  later  the  Dutch  began  a  lucrative  traffic  with  the  islands  of  Sumatra, 
Java,  and  Ceylon,  and  finally  with  India.  So  bold,  assiduous,  and  enterpris- 
ing were  they,  that  in  less  than  eighty  years,  they  possessbd  nearly  all  the 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  529 

polio  and  places,  at  which  the  Portuguese  had  been  established,  beside  forming 
settlements  on  the  Coromandel  coast. 

But  again  this  land  of  milk  and  honey,  of  gold  and  precious  gems,  was  a 
third  time  to  change  possessors,  and  to  fall  into  the  power  of  that,  then 
rising  empire,  "  whose  morning  drum  now  beats  round  the  world."  An 
English  fleet  sailing  on  the  south-eastern  seas,  captured  Dutch  and  Portu- 
guese Indiamen,  and  carried,  and  displayed  in  London,  their  rich  cargoes  of 
spices,  calicoes,  porcelain,  pearls  and  ebony  ;  this  excited  the  cupidity  of  the 
English  to  embark  in  commerce  with  this  teeming  land.  A  charter  was 
obtained  from  Queen  Elizabeth,  in  1599,  which  became  the  foundation  of 
that  gigantic  monopoly,  known  as  "  The  East  India  Company."  Events 
of  tragical  interest  mark  the  history  of  the  progress  of  the  English  in  India, 
of  which  we  narrate  one  that  has  become  world-famous  for  the  horrible 
sufferings  of  its  victims. 

Some  ten  years  before  our  own  revolutionary  war,  Surajah  Dowlah,  the 
reigning  prince,  regarded  the  foreigners  settled  at  Calcutta  with  suspicion. 
Their  numbers  being  few,  and  the  fort  weak,  the  English,  on  the  first  symp- 
toms of  hostility,  attempted  to  flee  for  safety  to  their  ships  in  the  river. 
Unfortunately  when  they  were  ready  to  go  on  board,  the  vessels  had  moved 
down  stream  ;  night  drawing  near,  the  nabob  ordered  the  foreigners  to  be 
arrested  for  examination  the  next  day.  They  were  confined  in  the  fort,  since 
known  as  "the  black  hole  of  Calcutta."  One  of  the  survivors  of  that 
terrible  night,  Mr.  Holwell,  has  given  a  description  of  their  sufferings. 

"The  place  selected  was  but  eighteen  feet  square,  with  only  two  small 
windows  barred  with  iron,  opening  into  a  close  verandah,  and  scarce^  ad- 
mitting a  breath  of  air.  Into  this  narrow  receptacle  the  whole  of  the  officers 
and  troops,  one  hundred  and  sixteen  in  number,  were  compelled  to  enter,  and 
on  their  venturing  to  remonstrate,  the  commander  ordered  every  one  who 
should  remonstrate  to  be  instantly  cut  down.  Thus  were  they  forcibly  thrust 
into  this  fearful  dungeon,  into  which  the  whole  number  could  with  difficulty 
be  squeezed,  and  the  door  was  then  fast  barred  from  without.  Their  first 
impression  on  finding  themselves  thus  immured,  was  the  utter  impossibility 
of  surviving  one  night,  and  the  necessity  of  extricating  themselves  at  what- 
ever cost.  The  .Jemadars  (or  Indian  Guards)  were  walking  before  the 
window,  and  Mr.  Holwell  seeing  one  who  bore  upon  his  face  a  more  than 
usual  expression  of  humanity,  adjured  him  to  procure  for  them  room  in 
which  they  could  breathe,  assuring  him  of  a  reward  next  morning  of  a  thou- 
sand rupees.  The  man  went  away,  but  returned,  saying  it  was  impossible. 
The  prisoners  thinking  the  offer  too  low,  tendered  two  thousand.  The  man 
again  went  and  returned,  saying  that  the  Nabob  was  asleep,  and  no  one  durst 
wake  him.  The  lives  of  a  hundred  and  sixteen  men  were  nothing  in  compari- 
son with  disturbing  for  a  moment  the  slumbers  of  a  tyrant !  Every  moment 
added  to  their  distress.  All  attempts  to  obtain  relief  by  a  change  of  posture, 
from  the  painful  pressure  to  which  it  gave  rise,  only  aggravated  their  suffer- 
ings. The  air  soon  became  pestilential,  producing  at  every  respiration  a 
feeling  of  suffocation.  The  perspiration  flowed  in  streams,  and  they  were 
tormented  with  the  most  burning  thirst.  Loud  cries  being  made  for  'water*1 
34 


530  LIFE  IN  INDIA 

the  humane  Jemadar  pushed  through  the  bars  several  skins  filled  with  that 
fluid,  but  this  produced  only  an  increase  of  calamity,  through  the  violent 
efforts  made  to  obtain  it.  About  eleven  o'clock  the  prisoners  began  to  die 
fast — six  of  Mr.  Holwell's  best  friends  expiring  at  his  feet  and  being  trampled 
upon  by  the  survivors.  Of  those  still  alive,  a  great  proportion  were  raving 
or  delirious;  some  uttered  incoherent  prayers,  others  the  most  fearful  blasphe- 
mies. They  endeavored  by  most  furious  invectives  to  induce  the  guards  to 
fire  into  the  prison  and  end  their  miseries — but  without  effect.  When  day 
dawned  the  few  who  had  not  expired,  were  most  of  them  either  raving  or  in- 
sensible, and  of  the  one  hundred  and  sixteen  who  had  been  inclosed,  there 
breathed  only  twenty-three  !" 

As  soon  as  the  news  of  this  terrible  event  was  known  at  Madras  a  large 
force  under  Colonel  Clive  immediately  proceeded  to  Calcutta,  and  avenged 
this  tragedy.  The  cruel  Surajah  Dowlah  met  with  a  just  reward  in  falling  a 
victim  to  an  assassin.  That  hour  dated  the  establishment  of  British  power 
in  Bengal  ;  it  has  been  gradually  extending,  until  now  all  India  is  in  fact 
il  British  India."  Yet  within  it  are  a  few  small  territories  under  the  French, 
Portuguese  and  Danes,  which  they  are  permitted  to  hold  from  courtesy;  also 
several  ostensibly  only  under  the  native  rulers. 

The  Hindoos  have  so  long  been  an  enslaved  people  that  they  bear  their 
dependent  condition  with  scarcely  an  effort  to  change  it,  and  well  may  they, 
for,  under  the  protection  of  the  British  lion,  they  live  better  and  more  quietly 
than  ever  before.  India  is  England's  most  precious  jewel,  and  to  her  she 
owes  much  of  her  present  wealth  and  power.  Hisfouy  shows  that  "■  whatever 
city  or  nation  has  in  the  lapse  of  past  ages*  held  in  its  hands  the  keys  of  Indian 
commerce  and  influence,  that  city  or  plave  has  for  the  time  stood  forth  in  the  van 
of  the  civilized  world,  as  the  richest  and  most  flourishing.  While  Arabia  pos- 
sessed its  commerce  it  was  the  far-famed  "Araby  the  blest."  "  Indian  com- 
merce found  Palmyra  composed  of  brick,  and  left  it  more  precious  than  mar- 
ble." The  gigantic  assaults  of  the  conqueror  of  Macedonia  availed  not  against 
Tyre  so  long  as  she  held  the  monopoly  of  the  Indian  trade.  Alexandria 
speedily  eclipsed  all  surrounding  cities  by  her  direct  trade  with  India  and  the 
East.  Bagdad,  through  Moslem  victories,  at  once  arose  the  Rome,  the  Alex- 
andria, and  the  Athens  of  the  East ;  and  Ghuznee  too,  was  long  celebrated  as 
the  "  Celestial  Bride."  During  the  dominion  of  the  Portuguese,  Lisbon  was 
without  a  rival.  "  It  must  have  been,"  says  an  eminent  writer,  "  to 
accomplish  some  very  important  moral  change  in  the  Eastern  world,  that  so 
vast  an  empire  as  is  comprised  in  British  India,  containing  nearly  a  hundred 
and  fifty  millions  of  people,  should  have  been  placed  under  the  dominion  of 
one  of  the  smallest  portions  of  the  civilized  world,  and  that  at  the  other 
extremity  of  the  globe." 

Of  the  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  in  Hindoostan,  about  one  hundred 
and  thirty-eight  millions  are  native  Hindoos,  divided  into  many  tribes,  and 
speaking  twenty  or  thirty  different  languages,  but  all  are  united  by  similarity 
of  religion.  Ten  millions  are  Mahommedans,  descendants  of  the  former  con- 
querors, whose  mosques,  with  their  lofty  minarets,  rise  over  all  the  principal 
towns.       They  are    bigoted    and    crafty,   cold  and   repulsive,  despising  th* 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  531 

Hindoos,  whom  they  excel  in  industry  and  morality,  and  hating  the  English  with 
mortal  enmity.  A  third  class,  numbering  four  hundred  thousand,  are  the 
Eurasians,  bastards  of  Europeans  by  their  Indian  mistresses.  A  fourth  class 
are  foreign  residents,  who  number  fifty  thousand,  and  among  whom  none 
but  the  self-denying  missionaries  expect  to  die  there.  Aside  from  these  are 
Chinese  adventurers,  Arabs,  Parsees,  and  finally,  those  despised  Heaven- 
cursed  wanderers,  the  Jews. 

The  Parsees,  or  fire-worshiping  Ghebers,  are  a  people  whom  the  Mahomme- 
dan  persecutions  drove  from  Persia  in  the  eighth  century  of  the  Christian 
era.  They  are  descended  from  the  ancient  Persian  followers  of  Zoroaster, 
to  whose  religious  tenets  and  moral  laws  they  still  adhere.  They  are  gene- 
rally a  tall  and  comely  race,  athletic  and  well  formed,  and  fairer  than  the 
natives  of  Hindoostan :  the  young  females  are  delicate  and  pleasing  in  their 
manners. 

The  Parsees  are  all  worshipers  of  fire,  and  in  every  temple  is  a  sacred 
flame,  lighted  at  first  from  that  originally  brought  from  Persia,  which  is 
still  preserved  with  great  reverence  at  Sodawara,  near  Nunsarree.  These 
fires  are  attended  day  and  night  by  the  priests,  and  are  never  permitted  to 
expire.  This  was  also  positively  enjoined  to  the  Levites,  and  was  adopted 
by  the  Greeks  and  Romans  under  all  their  governments.  The  eternal  fire  was 
carried  before  the  army  of  Darius  on  silver  altars,  followed  by  the  magi, 
singing  hymns,  and  by  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  youths,  clothed  in  scar- 
let, amounting  to  the  number  of  days  in  the  year.  These  fires  are  preserved 
in  a  large  chafing-dish,  carefully  supplied  with  fuel,  perfumed  by  a  small 
quantity  of  sandal-wood  or  other  aromatics.  The  vulgar  and  illiterate  wor- 
ship this  sacred  flame,  as  also  the  sun,  moon  and  stars,  without  regard  to  the 
invisible  Creator  ;  but  the  learned  and  judicious  only  adore  the  Almighty 
Fountain  of  Light  under  the  s}^mbol  of  fire. 

Zoroaster,  and  the  ancient  magi,  whose  memories  they  revere,  and  whose 
works  they  are  said  to  preserve,  never  taught  them  to  consider  the  sun  as 
anything  more  than  a  creature  of  the  Great  Creator  of  the  universe  :  they 
were  to  revere  it  as  his  best  and  fairest  image,  and  for  the  numberless  bless- 
ings it  diffuses  on  the  earth  ;  the  sacred  flame  was  only  intended  as  a  perpe- 
tual monitor  to  Reserve  their  purity,  of  which  this  element  is  so  expressive  a 
symbol.  But  superstition  and  fable  have,  through  the  lapse  of  ages,  cor- 
rupted the  streams  of  their  religious  system,  which  in  its  source  was  pure  and 
sublime. 

Herodotus  says  that  the  ancient  Persians  venerated  fire  as  a  divinity;  and 
the  magi,  who  detested  the  adoration  of  images,  worshiped  the  Almighty 
only  by  this  element.  At  the  same  time  they  admitted  two  principles,  one 
the  cause  of  all  good,  the  other  that  of  all  evil ;  the  former  was  called  Oras- 
medes,  the  latter  Ahriman;  the  one  represented  by  light,  the  other  by 
darkness. 

This  was  the  system  of  Zoroaster  and  the  magi,  and  under  various  modifi- 
cations inculcated  in  their  moral  system,  is  supposed  to  form  vhe  contents  of 
the  Zend  Avesta,  or  sacred  books  of  the  modern  Parsees.  The  morality  of 
the  Zend  Avesta  is  good,  purity  of  word,  action,  and  thought  being  inculcated. 


532  LIFE  \N  INDIA. 

An  attention  to  truth  is  likjwise  particularly  enforced.  To  multiply  the 
human  species,  and  prevent  evil  are  the  general  duties  inculcated  by  Zoroas- 
ter and  his  disciples  ;  agriculture  was  particularly  recommended.  "  He,'' 
says  Zoroaster,  "  who  sows  the  ground  with  diligence,  acquires  a  greater 
stock  of  religious  merit  than  he  could  gain  by  ten  thousand  prayers."  The 
disciple  of  Zoroaster  is  enjoined  to  pardon  injuries  ;  to  honor  his  parents  and 
the  king  ;  to  respect  old  age  ;  to  observe  general  gentleness  of  manners,  and 
to  practice  universal  benevolence.  Fasting  and  celibacy  are  forbidden  to  the 
men  ;  and  as  far  as  it  may  depend  on  themselves,  the  latter  is  discouraged 
in  women  :  if  a  man's  wife  be  not  barren,  only  one  wife  is  allowed  him  :  a 
marriage  with  his  cousin-german  is  recommended  to  him  as  an  act  particu- 
larly pleasing  to  Heaven. 

Some  of  the  Parsee  tribe  still  reside  in  Persia,  near  the  city  of  Bakee.  on 
the  shores  of  the  Caspian  sea,  about  ten  miles  from  the  everlasting  fire  which 
they  hold  in  such  veneration.  This  fire  issues  from  the  cleft  of  a  rock,  five 
or  six  feet  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth,  appearing  like  the  clear  flame  over 
burning  spirits  ;  sometimes  it  rises  to  the  height  of  several  yards,  at  others 
only  a  few  inches  above  the  aperture.  It  has  continued  thus,  it  is  said,  for 
ages  without  intermission,  and  is  doubtless  one  of  the  ordinary  burning  springs 
common  in  various  parts  of  the  globe. 

The  Hindoos  are  divided  into  four  different  tribes,  each  of  which  have 
their  different  occupations.  1st.  The  Brahmins,  who  study  religion,  astro- 
nomy, arts  and  sciences,  instruct  the  youth,  and  officiate  as  priests  in  the 
temples,  and  perform  every  kind  of  charity.  2d.  The  Kshatiras,  includes 
kings,  nobles,  magistrates,  officers,  etc.  3d.  The  Veishas,  are  employed  in 
commerce,  agriculture,  arms,  and  the  occupation  of  shepherds,  and  herds- 
men. 4th.  The  Soodras,  consists  of  mechanics,  servants,  and  all  the  lower 
classes  of  society.  Each  of  these  principal  tribes  is  subdivided  into  eighty- 
four  castes  or  classes,  who  neither  intermarry  nor  associate  with  each  other. 
They  differ  as  much  in  appearance,  features  and  dress,  as  if  of  different 
nations,  and  by  laws  strictly  observed,  they  are  separated  from  each  other  by 
an  insurmountable  barrier.  The  lowest  of  all,  are  the  Pariahs,  who  are 
esteemed  the  outcasts  of  society,  with  whom  none  of  the  others  will  have  the 
least  intercourse  whatever.  So  strong  is  this  feeling,  that  one  of  a  higher 
caste  has  been  seen  to  dash  a  jar  of  milk  to  the  ground,  and  break  it  to  atoms, 
simply  because  the  shadow  of  a  Pariah  had  fallen  upon  it  as  he  passed.  And 
those  of  one  caste  will  not  to  even  save  life,  give  an  individual  of  another 
caste  a  drink  of  water,  or  attempt  a  rescue  if  he  is  buried  under  the  ruins  of 
a  fallen  house.  In  this  class  are  placed  foreigners,  who  therefore,  are  for- 
bidden all  intimacy  with  the  ipper  castes.  The  lower  castes  are  considered 
as  slaves,  and  number  millions.  Constant  poverty  and  accumulated  misery, 
have  given  a  squalid  and  savage  appearance  to  these  unhappy  beings. 

In  no  country  in  the  world,  does  the  religion  of  the  inhabitants  appear  so 
prominent  as  in  India,  where  every  town  has  its  different  temples  from  the 
meanest  building  which  incloses  the  rudest  idol,  to  the  most  gorgeous  deities, 
enshrined  in  pagodas  with  lofty  towers,  spacious  court-yards,  splendid  colon- 
nades, and  walled  tanks.     While  priests  and  devotees  crown  the  idols,  and 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  533 

bring  offerings  of  fruits  and  flowers,  the  people  perform  their  devotions  a* 
sunrise,  standing  in  the  water  bathing  or  throwing  water  over  their  heads. 
During  the  day-time,  the  men  are  attracted  by  singing  to  the  sacred  place,  as 
well  as  graceful  groups  of  vailed  women,  who  bring  their  offerings  to  the 
divinity.  On  holydays,  the  gayly  dressed  multitude,  in  their  picturesqe  cos- 
tume, intermingled  with  fakirs  and  mendicants,  present  an  animated  and 
singular  spectacle. 

The  Hindoo  religion  admits  of  no  proselytes,  and  is  therefore  a  principal 
means  of  preserving  the  castes  pure  and  distinct.  This  religious  and  moral 
system  is  no  doubt  of  great  antiquity  ;  but  those  who  have  deeply  investi- 
gated the  ancient  and  pleasing  fictions  of  the  Hindoo  mythology,  which  bears  a 
striking  resemblance  to  that  of  the  ancient  Greeks,  and  may  be  perhaps 
traced  to  the  same  origin,  are  of  opinion  that  the  civil  and  religious  laws  of 
the  Hindoos,  called  the  Institutes  of  Menu,  were  compiled  about  880  years 
before  the  birth  of  our  Savior ;  that  the  Vedas,  or  sacred  volumes,  were 
written  1230  years  before  Christ,  and  that  preceding  this  period,  everything 
being  handed  down  by  tradition,  the  account  was  fabulous  and  obscure. 

But  divested  of  extraneous  matter,  there  appears  to  be  a  great  degree  of 
purity  and  simplicity  in  the  genuine  principles  of  the  Hindoo  religion,  though 
now  obscured  by  superstitious  rites  and  ceremonies,  and  blended  with  gross 
idolatry.  In  their  original  simplicity  they  teach  that  there  is  one  Supreme 
Ruler  of  the  universe,  who  is  styled  Brama,  or  the  Great  One.  They  indi- 
cate also,  that  this  Supreme  Intelligence  consists  of  a  trinity,  expressed  by 
the  mystic  word  OM,  of  whom  the  sacred  books  declare,  they  "  were  origi- 
nally united  in  one  essence,  and  from  one  essence  were  derived,  and  that  the 
Great  One,  became  distinctly  known  as  three  gods,  being  one  person  and  three 
aods."  The  three  are  distinguished  by  the  names  of  Vishnu,  the  Creator, 
Brama  the  Preserver,  and  Sheva,  the  Destroyer  of  mankind.  Images  of 
these  attributes  are  placed  in  their  temples,  and  worship,  and  sacrifice  are 
daily  performed  before  them,  and  a  variety  of  other  statues,  representing  the 
different  qualities  of  the  Supreme  Being  ;  so  that  it  is  a  complete  system  of 
polytheism,  and  a  source  of  a  thousand  fables  subversive  of  truth  and 
simplicity. 

This  trinity  have  given  birth  to  three  hundred  and  thirty  millions  of  Gods, 
some  of  whom  are  held  in  the  greatest  reverence.  Of  these,  we  notice  a 
few  of  the  most  primitive,  with  their  attributes.  Oanesa  is  esteemed  the 
work-perfecter.  Before  undertaking  a  journey,  writing  a  letter,  reading  a 
book,  and  the  like,  Ganesa  is  upon  the  lips  of  the  traveler  or  student.  Sub- 
ramunman  is  the  Hindoo  Mars,  and  especial  guardian  of  the  Brahmins. 
Uoorga,  one  of  the  wives  of  Siva,  combines  the  characteristics  of  Minerva, 
Pallas,  and  Juno.  The  annual  festival  in  her  honor,  is  magnificent  and  costly; 
even  in  Calcutta  alone,  it  is  supposed  that  half  a  million  of  pounds,  are  ex- 
pended on  this  occasion.  Kalee,  another  of  Siva's  wives,  is  the  Moloch  of 
the  land,  and  delights  in  blood  and  carnage.  If  any  of  her  worshipers  cut 
out  a  piece  of  their  flesh  for  a  burnt-offering,  her  delight  is  boundless.  The 
Swinging  festival,  and  various  other  observances,  are  designed  to  avert  her 
wrath,   or   secure  her  blessing.     She  is  the  especial  friend  of   thieves   and 


534  LIFE  IN  IND-  A.- 

murderers,  who  invoke  her  blessing  before  entering  upon  their  deeds  of  vio- 
lence and  death.  All  these  deities  are  limited  in  their  physical  and  menta 
qualities.  There  is  an  entire  absence  of  all  moral  qualities,  not  one  possessing 
a  single  element  of  truth,  modesty  or  goodness. 

It  ever  was,  and  ever  must  be  difficult,  for  either  Christians  or  Mahomme- 
dans  to  convert  a  Hindoo  ;  for  with  them  theology  is  so  blended  with  the 
whole  moral  and  civil  obligations  of  life,  that  it  enters  into  every  habit,  and 
sanctions  almost  every  action. 

The  Vedas  or  sacred  books,  according  to  Hindoo  belief,  dropped  from  the 
mouth  of  the  exalted  Brama.  At  the  same  time,  the  Brahma  castes  were 
born  from  his  mouth,  signifying  that  their  position  in  community,  was  to  be 
pre-eminent  in  sacredness  and  honor  :  the  Kshatiras  were  born  from  his 
arm,  "  to  protect  the  earth,  cattle  and  Brahmins,"  and  therefore,  to  act  in 
offices  of  trust :  the  Veishas  were  born  from  his  thighs,  and  have,  as  their 
assigned  vocation,  to  provide  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  therefore  are 
the  farmers  and  merchants  :  and  last,  the  Soodras  were  born  from  his  feet,  as 
denoting  the  servile  pursuits  to  which  they  were  to  be  devoted. 

On  withdrawing  the  vail  from  the  sacred  volumes  of  the  Hindoos,  we  see 
Brama  or  the  supreme  deity,  represented  as  absorbed  in  the  contemplation 
of  his  own  essence,  but  from  an  impulse  of  divine  love,  resolved  to  create 
other  beings  to  partake  of  his  glory,  and  to  be  happy  to  all  eternity.  He 
spoke  the  word,  and  angels  rose  into  existence  !  He  commanded,  and  the 
hosts  of  Heaven  were  formed  !  They  were  created  free,  and  were  made 
partakers  of  the  divine  glory,  and  beatitude,  on  the  easy  condition  of  prais- 
ing their  Creator,  and  acknowledging  him  for  their  supreme  Lord.  But  not 
content  with  this  happy  state  in  the  celestial  regions,  some  of  the  principal 
spirits  rebelled,  and  drew  a  number  after  them,  and  were  cast  into  hell. 

In  process  of  time,  at  the  intercession  of  the  faithful  angels,  the  fatal  doom 
of  these  fallen  spirits  was  revoked  ;  and  they  were  released  on  the  conditions 
of  repentance,  and  amendment,  in  a  state  of  probation.  For  this  purpose, 
a  new  creation  of  worlds  took  place  ;  and  mortal  bodies  were  prepared  for  the 
apostate  angels,  which  they  were  to  animate  for  a  certain  space,  then  to  be 
subject  to  moral  and  natural  evils,  through  which  they  were  doomed  to  trans- 
migrate under  eighty-nine  different  forms  !  the  last  into  that  of  man  !  when 
their  powers  and  faculties  are  enlarged,  and  a  merciful  Creator  rests  his 
chief  expectations  of  their  repentance,  and  restoration  to  his  favor.  If  they 
then  fail,  their  punishment  is  renewed,  and  they  are  doomed  again  to  begin 
their  first  state  of  transmigration.  In  this  system  we  are  struck  with  the  in- 
termixture of  truth  with  error,  and  false  traditions,  bearing  in  many  particu- 
lars a  resemblance  to  the  sacred  truths  of  divine  revelation. 

On  this  hypothesis,  it  appears  that  one  principal  reason  for  the  Hindoos 
regarding  the  cow  with  such  religious  veneration,  is,  that  they  believe  the  soul 
transmigrates  into  this  animal  immediately  preceding  its  assumption  of  the 
human  form.  No  Hindoo,  even  of  the  lowest  caste,  will  kill  a  cow  or  taste 
its  flesh,  but  will  die  with  perfect  resignation  rather  than  violate  this  tenet. 
Some  of  the  Brahmins  carry  their  austerities  to  such  a  length,  as  never  to 
eat  anything  but  the  grain  which  has  passed  through  the  cow,  which  after- 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  535 

ward  being  separated  from  its  accompaniments,  is  considered  by  them  as  the 
purest  of  all  food. 

Believing  as  they  do,  that  every  living  animal,  even  to  the  smallest  insect, 
to  be  the  abode  of  a  human  soul,  undergoing  its  various  transmigrations, 
they  are  unwilling  to  take  the  life  of  any  animal  whatever.  Monkeys,  croco- 
diles, the  cow,  and  the  bee,  and  some  other  insects,  and  animals,  are  regarded 
by  them  with  religious  veneration. 

Among  the  Brahmins,  every  bird  that  flies  over  the  city  wall,  finds  an 
asylum;  every  house  is  crowded  with  monkeys  and  squirrels  ;  the  trees  are 
filled  with  peacocks,  doves,  and  parrots  ;  the  lakes  are  covered  with  aquatic 
fowl,  and  the  groves  melodious  with  bulbuls,  and  warblers  of  every  description. 

There  is  an  anecdote  related  of  a  learned  Brahmin,  to  whom  an  English 
gentleman  had  given  the  use  of  his  library,  and  philosophical  instruments, 
and  at  last  showed  him  a  valuable  solar  microscope,  which  he  had  just  re- 
ceived from  Europe,  and  in  opposition  to  the  scheme  of  metempsychosis,  dis- 
covered to  him  the  innumerable  animalculse  devoured  by  the  Brahmins,  on 
every  fruit  and  vegetable  which  they  ate.  The  English  gentleman,  instead 
of  seeing  his  friend  delighted  at  the  full  display  of  wonders,  was  astonished 
<>o  find  him  unusually  thoughtful,  and  finally  to  withdraw  in  silence.  The 
Brahmin  on  his  next  visit  offered  a  large  sum  for  the  instrument,  which  was 
refused.  At  length  overcome  by  his  excessive  importunity,  the  Englishman 
presented  it  to  him.  A  gleam  of  joy  flashed  across  the  Brahmin's  countenance 
on  obtaining  possession  of  the  coveted  object.  The  next  moment  he  raised  it 
above  his  head,  and  dashing  it  violently  to  the  ground,  broke  it  to  atoms. 
The  other  fell  into  a  passion  and  upbraided  him  with  ingratitude,  ignorance, 
and  folly,  all  of  which  the  Brahmin  bore  with  patience,  and  a  few  days  after, 
again  called,  and  thus  addressed  his  friend:  "  0  that  I  had  remained  in 
tiiat  happy  state  of  ignorance  wherein  you  first  found  me  !  yet  will  I  confess 
as  my  knowledge  increased,  so  did  my  pleasure,  until  I  beheld  the  last 
wonders  of  the  microscope.  From  that  moment,  I  have  been  tormented  in 
doubt,  and  perplexed  by  mystery.  My  mind,  overwhelmed  by  chaotic  con- 
fusion, knows  not  where  to  rest,  nor  how  to  extricate  itself  from  such  a  maze- 
£  am  miserable,  and  must  continue  so  to  be,  until  I  enter  another  state  of 
existence.  I  am  a  solitary  individual  among  130  millions  of  people,  all  edu- 
cated in  the  same  belief  with  myself  !  all  happy  in  their  ignorance  !  So  may 
they  ever  remain  !  I  shall  keep  the  secret  within  my  own  bosom,  where  it  will 
corrode  my  peace,  and  break  my  rest ;  but  I  shall  have  the  satisfaction  of 
knowing  that  I  alone  feel  those  pangs,  which  had  I  not  destroyed  the  instru- 
ment, might  have  been  extensively  communicated,  and  rendered  thousands 
miserable  !  Forgive  me  my  valued  friend,  and  oh  !  convey  no  more  imple- 
ments of  knowledge  and  destruction  I" 

The  devotion  of  the  Hindoos  to  the  Supreme  Being,  and  the  inferior  deities, 
consistB  in  regular  attendance  at  the  temples,  especially  at  the  solemn  festi- 
vals ;  in  performing  particular  religious  ceremonies  in  their  own  houses  ;  ii 
prayers,  ablutions,  fastings,  and  penances  ;  but  especially  in  oblations,  whick 
consist  chiefly  of  spices,  incense,  rice,  fruits,  and  flowers. 


5-36  I  IFE  IN  INriA. 

The  following  extracts  from  the  Vedas  or  religious  books  of  the  Hindoos, 
are  truly  sublime  : 

God  is  ONE  !  Creator  of  all  that  is  !  God  is  like  a  perfect  sphere,  without  beginning 
and  without  end!  God  rules  and  governs  all  creation  by  a  general  providence,  resulting 
fron  first  determined  and  fixed  principles.  Thou  shalt  not  make  inquiry  into  the  essence 
of  the  Eternal  One,  nor  by  what  laws  He  governs.  An  inquiry  into  either  is  vain  and 
criminal.  It  is  enough,  that  day  by  day,  and  night  by  night,  thou  seest  in  his  works, 
iiis  wisdom,  his  power,  and  his  mercy  :  Benefit  thereby. 

By  one  Supreme  Ruler  is  this  universe  pervaded;  even  every  world  in  the  whole  circle 
of  nature.  Enjoy  pure  delight,  0  man  !  by  abandoning  all  thoughts  of  this  perishable 
world;  and  covet  not  the  wealth  of  any  creature  existing. 

To  those  regions  where  evil  spirits  dwell,  and  which  utter  darkness  involves,  all  such 
men  surely  go  after  death,  as  destroy  the  purity  of  their  own  souls. 

Let  my  soul  return  to  the  immortal  spirit  of  God !  and  then,  let  my  body,  which  ends 
in  ashes,  return  to  dust! 

O  Spirit,  who  pervadest  fire,  lead  us  in  a  straight  path  to  the  riches  of  beatitude!  re- 
move each  foul  taint  from  our  souls;  who  approach  thee  with  the  highest  praise,  and  the 
most  fervid  adoration ! 

God,  who  is  perfect  wisdom,  and  perfect  happiness,  is  the  final  refuge  of  the  man  who 
has  liberally  bestowed  his  wealth,  who  has  been  firm  in  virtue,  and  who  knows  and 
adores  that  Great  One!     Remember  me,  0,  OM,  Thou  Divine  Spirit  ! 

From  an  accurate  survey  of  the  religion  of  India,  says  a  noted  writer,  it  is 
impossible  not  to  perceive  that  it  is  essentially  identical  with  that  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians,  and,  therefore,  that  both  must  have  emanated  from  a 
common  origin.  Both  nations  were  distinguished  by  a  division  into  various 
orders,  and  each  tribe  adhered  to  the  profession  of  its  family,  and  never 
invaded  the  department  of  another.  From  a  comparison  of  different  facts  the 
following  will  appear  to  be  the  result.  At  the  time  of  the  general  dispersion 
of  mankind,  some  tribes  migrated  toward  the  east  to  India,  and  some  still 
remained  in  their  original  settlements  in  Chaldea.  Egypt,  therefore,  we 
might  expect  to  find  the  source  of  knowledge  for  the  western,  and  India  for 
the  eastern  part  of  the  then  known  world.  The  few  general  traditions  which 
they  had  received  from  their  ancestors,  it  is  reasonable  to  imagine,  would 
find  a  place  in  the  religious  systems  of  all.  These  traditions  would  remain 
unaltered,  chiefly  in  countries  like  India,  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the  world 
by  continued  and  almost  impregnable  barriers. 

The  variety  of  fables  to  which  the  awful  event  of  the  deluge  has  been 
accommodated  by  every  heathen  nation  on  the  globe — the  diversities  in  the 
narrative,  adapted  to  different  local  prejudices,  or  to  various  theological 
opinions,  prove  that  they  are  taken  from  broken  fragments  of  some  original 
tradition.  It  is  also  observed  that  the  accounts  of  a  deluge  still  to  be  found 
among  the  more  eastern  nations,  are  as  strongly  marked  by  truth,  and 
equally  conform  to  the  history  of  Moses,  as  those  which  are  preserved  in 
Egypt. 

We  find  that  the  most  common  method  of  accounting  for  the  origin  of  evil, 
is  the  degeneracy  of  man  from  a  pure  to  a  corrupt  state — a  doctrine  which 
has  retained  a  place  in  the  popular  creed  of  every  nation  of  both  continents, 
and  of  the  isles  of  the  sea.  Of  Brahminism  it  may  be  almost  said  to  form  the 
basis.     It  is  this  idea  which  causes  its  followers  to  submit  to  the  most  excru- 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  537 

elating  penances,  in  order  to  purge  the  soul  from  the  stains  which  it  has  con- 
iracted  during  its  abode  in  this  polluted  body.  Hence  we  see  that  this  doc- 
trine, corrupted  and  obscured  and  exaggerated,  has  led  the  ascetical  fakir  to 
drag  out  a  long  life  of  protracted,  self-inflicted  torture,  and  the  bigoted  Brah- 
min to  prostrate  himself  for  immolation  before  the  ponderous  wheels  of  the 
bloody  rolling  car  of  Juggernaut.  From  the  fall  of  man,  the  universal  "  cus- 
tom of  sacrificial  oblations,  as  an  expiation  for  sin,"  is  a  rite  so  peculiar  and 
universal  that  it  must  have  received  its  sanction  from  some  positive  command, 
and  is  so  unnatural  that  it  could  never  have  been  the  dictate  of  natural 
reason. 

India  is  a  great  field  for  missionary  operations.  There  are  at  present 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  foreign  missionaries  in  the  country,  which  is  less 
than  one  to  every  million  of  its  inhabitants.  They  have  at  present  about 
fifty  thousand  followers.  But  these  converts  have  been  made  in  the  face  of 
almost  insuperable  difficulties.  No  Hindoo  can  become  a  Christian  without 
loss  of  caste,  to  them  worse  than  death  :  the  delinquents  are  obliged  to  enter 
the  tribe  of  Pariahs,  the  outcasts  of  all  ranks  of  society;  in  which,  with  their 
offspring,  they  are  compelled  to  remain  forever,  and  be  branded  with  infamy. 

The  celebrated  Bishop  Heber  thus  testifies  to  the  characteristics  of  the 
Hindoos,  and  of  their  religious  belief. 

"  Of  all  the  idolatries  which  I  have  ever  read  or  heard  of,  the  religion  of 
the  Hindoos,  in  which  I  had  taken  some  pains  to  inform  myself,  really  appears 
to  me  the  worst,  both  in  the  degrading  notions  which  it  gives  of  the  Deity  ; 
in  the  endless  round  of  its  burdensome  ceremonies,  which  occupy  the  time 
and  Qistract  the  thoughts,  without  either  instructing  or  interesting  its 
votaries  ;  in  the  filthy  acts  of  uncleanness  and  cruelty,  not  only  permitted  but 
enjoined,  and  inseparably  interwoven  with  those  ceremonies  ;  in  the  system 
of  castes- -a  system  which  tends  more  than  anything  else  the  Devil  has  yet 
invented,  to  destroy  the  feelings  of  general  benevolence,  and  to  make  nine- 
tenths  of  mankind  the  hopeless  slaves  of  the  remainder  ;  and,  in  the  total 
absence  01  any  popular  system  of  morals,  or  any  single  lesson  which  the  peo- 
ple at  large  ever  hear,  to  live  virtuously  and  do  good  to  each  other.  I  do 
not  say,  indeed,  that  there  are  not  some  scattered  lessons  of  this  kind  to  be 
found  in  their  ancient  books  ;  but  those  books  are  neither  accessible  to  the 
people  at  large,  nor  are  these  last  permitted  to  read  them;  and,  in  general,  all 
the  sins  that  a  Soodra  is  taught  to  fear,  are,  killing  a  cow,  offending  a  Brah- 
min, or  neglecung  one  of  the  many  frivolous  rites  by  which  their  deities  are 
supposed  to  be  conciliated.  Accordingly,  though  the  general  sobriety  of  the 
Hindoos  (a  virtue  which  they  possess  in  common  with  most  inhabitants  of 
warm  climates)  affords  a  very  great  facility  to  the  maintenance  of  public 
order  and  decorum  ;  I  really  never  have  met  with  a  race  of  men  whose  stand- 
ard of  morality  is  so  low,  who  feel  so  little  apparent  shame  on  being  detected 
.r»  a  falsehood,  or  so  little  interest  in  the  sufferings  of  a  neighbor,  not  being  of 
their  own  caste  or  family  ;  whose  ordinary  and  familiar  conversation  is  so 
licentious,  or,  in  the  wilder  and  more  lawless  districts,  who  shed  blood  with 
so  little  repugnance.  The  good  qualities  which  there  are  among  them,  are,  in 
no  instance  that  lam  aware  of,  connected  with,  or  arising  out  of,  their  religion  ! 


538  L/FE  IN  INDIA. 

since  it  is  in  no  instance  to  good  deeds  or  virtuous  habits  in  life  that 
the  future  rewards  in  which  they  believe  are  promised.  Their  bravery,  their 
fidelity  to  their  employers,  their  temperance,  and,  wherever  they  are 
found,  their  humanity  and  gentleness  of  disposition,  appear  to  arise  exclu- 
sively from  a  natural,  happy  temperament,  from  an  honorable  pride  in  their 
own  renown  and  the  renown  of  their  ancestors,  and  from  the  goodness  of 
God,  who  seems  unwilling  that  His  image  should  be  entirely  effaced,  even  in 
the  midst  of  the  grossest  error." 

The  Hindoos  anciently  were  a  people  of  high  intellectual  cultivation.  "  The 
variety  of  subjects  upon  which  they  wrote  prove  that  almost  every  science 
was  cultivated  among  them,  while  the  contents  of  their  law  and  philosophical 
books,  indicate  the  depth  of  wisdom  possessed  by  their  authors  compared 
with  any  nation  flourishing  at  that  time."  The  general  decay  of  learn- 
ing dates  from  the  conquest  of  the  country  by  the  Mohammedans. 

Their  books  on  religion,  law,  and  poetry,  exceed  in  number  and  bulk  those 
of  any  nation  that  ever  existed.  "  Wherever,"  says  a  distinguished  oriental 
scholar,  "  we  direct  our  attention  to  Hindoo  literature,  the  notion  of  infinity 
presents  itself ;  and  certainly  the  longest  life  would  not  suffice  for  a  single 
perusal  of  works  that  rise  and  swell  protuberant,  like  the  Himalayas,  above 
the  bulkiest  compositions  of  every  land  beyond  the  confines  of  India."  One 
of  their  most  extraordinary  books  of  poetry,  is  the  Cural,  which  is  more  than 
fifteen  hundred  years  old,  and  contains  a  rare  collection  of  poetioal  precepts 
appertaining  to  almost  every  duty  of  man.  Some  idea  of  this  wonderful  pro- 
duction can  be  gained  from  the  few  stanzas  annexed. 

As  ranked  in  every  alphabet  the  first, 

The  self-same  vowel  stands  ;  so  in  all  worlds 

The  Eternal  God  is  chief. 

Know  that  is  virtue,  which  each  ought  to  do, 

What  each  should  shun,  is  vice. 

If  love  and  virtue  be  thy  constant  guests, 

Domestic  life  is  blest,  and  finds  in  these 

Its  object  and  reward. 

Sweet  is  the  pipe,  and  sweet  the  lute,  they  say, 

They  who  have  never  heard  their  children's  tongues 

In  infant  prattle  lisp. 

To  honor  guests  with  hospitable  rite, 

Domestic  life,  with  all  its  various  joys, 

To  man  was  given. 

Though  courtesy  rejoice  the  heart,  yet  words 

Of  kindness,  which  dress  the  face  in  smiles, 

Will  more  avail. 

It  is  the  glory  of  the  just  to  stand, 

Like  the  adjusted  balance,  duly  pois'd, 

Nor  swerve  to  either  side. 

Proverbs  are  prominent  in  the  national  literature.  We  annex  a  few  n 
Rlustration  of  their  character. 

Of  what  use  can  the  news  be  to  a  frog  in  a  well  ? 
Even  the  monkey  thinks  its  own  young  precious  as  gold 
Even  a  small  rush  may  be  of  use  as  a  toothpick. 
Marry  the  daughter  on  knowing  the  mother. 


.t±lE  IN  INDIA.  533 

Taciturnity  makes  no  blunders. 

A  prudent  youth  is  better  than  an  old  fool. 

Can  he  that  prospers  not  by  truth,  succeed  by  lies  ? 

No  one  was  ever  ruined  by  speaking  the  truth. 

The  deceitful  have  no  friends. 

It  is  the  essence  of  riches  to  corrupt  the  heart. 

Courage  is  tried  in  war;  integrity  in  the  payment  of  debt  and  interest ;   the  faithful 
aess  of  a  wife  in  poverty,  and  friendship  in  distress. 

The  truly  great  are  calm  in  danger,  merciful  in  prosperity,  eloquent  in  the  assembly 
courageous  in  war,  and  anxious  for  fame. 

He  who  seeks  the  company  of  the  wise,  shall  himself  become  wise  ;  even  glass  inserted 
in  gold  partakes  of  its  color. 

A  gift  bestowed  with  kind  expressions,  knowledge  without  pride,  and  power  united  to 
clemency  are  rare  but  excellent. 

Every  one  looking  downward  becomes  impressed  with  the  idea  of  his  own  greatness  ; 
but,  looking  upward,  feels  his  own  littleness. 

If  the  people  are  ready  to  be  liberal,  like  a  milch  cow  giving  out  fresh  milk,  all  the 
world  will  be  their  near  relatives. 

The  art  of  printing  was  unknown  to  the  Hindoos,  their  books  being  all  in 
manuscript.  The  material  upon  which  they  write  is  the  palm  leaf.  Their 
books  are  made  of  several  leaves  fastened  together  by  a  thong  —  the 
writing  is  executed  with  an  iron  point,  and  the  letters  are  at  first,  almost  ille- 
gible ;  it  is  afterward  besmeared  with  ink,  which  makes  it  easily  read.  The 
northern  Hindoos  write  with  a  reed,  on  a  smooth,  glossy  paper,  made  of 
hemp,  rice,  and  different  ingredients. 

The  various  tribes  of  the  Hindoos  vary  in  complexion,  from  a  light  brown 
to  a  deep  jet,  and  in  the  form  of  face  and  feature,  strongly  resemble  the  Euro- 
peans, though  the  hair  is  always  long  and  black,  and  eyes  soft  and  dull.  The 
higher  classes  of  the  women  are  delicate  and  graceful,  with  soft  and  polished 
skins,  and  dark,  languishing  eyes,  and  as  a  whole  are  unsurpassed  in  beauty. 

The  Hindoos  are  more  slender  and  less  muscular  than  the  Europeans,  but 
far  exceed  them  in  endurance,  and  pedestrian  agility.  Their  dress  is  simple, 
modest  and  graceful,  and  adapted  to  the  climate.  Stockings  are  rarely  worn, 
as  they  would  restrain  their  "feet  fingers"  as  their  toes  are  called.  While  it  is 
exceedingly  rare  among  adults  of  our  country,  to  find  the  toes  otherwise  than 
deformed,  either  bent  under,  or  riding  over  each  other,  with  them,  they  are 
too  important  members  to  be  thus  abused.  With  his  toes  the  tailor  twists  his 
thread ;  they  help  the  cook  to  cut  his  meat ;  the  carpenter  while  planing,  to 
nold  the  board  ;  the  driver  to  wrench  the  tale  of  his  ox  to  hurry  him  along  ; 
and  the  pedestrian  to  pick  up  anything  that  has  fallen  to  the  ground. 

The  Hindoos  are  very  amiable,  polite  and  courteous  people,  and  observe  a 
great  deal  of  etiquette  in  their  social  intercourse,  using  many  high-flown, 
complimentary  expressions.  Their  houses  are  usually  of  sun-dried  mud,  or 
unburnt  bricks,  about  thirty  feet  square,  and  about  one  story  in  height.  The 
front  is  shaded  by  a  verandah,  underneath  which,  in  the  wall,  are  several 
little  holes  to  receive  lamps,  when  a  general  illumination  occurs.  The  center 
of  the  house  is  a  hollow  square  open  at  top.  One  room  is  appropriated  to  the 
household  idol,  and  another  named  the  "  room  of  anger,"  to  which  the  good 
woman  retreats  whenever  she  is  offended.  The  household  furniture  consists  of 
only  a  few  simple  articles.     The  principal  standard  dish  is  "  rice  ind  curry" 


540  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

which  the  Hindoo  partakes  of  on  the  floor,  first  asking  a  blessing.  He  eats 
with  his  fingers,  by  rolling  the  food  into  small  balls,  and  then  adroitly  tossing 
them  into  his  mouth.  The  females  are  never  allowed  to  eat  with  the  males, 
but  wait  patiently,  and  take  up  with  their  leavings.  They  are  in  a  depraved 
social  position  ;  implicit  obedience  in  all  cases  is  required,  and  the  birth  of  a 
daughter  is  regarded  as  a  domestic  calamity. 

The  most  common  mode  of  traveling  in  India  among  the  wealthy  classes 
and  foreigners,  is  by  the  palanquin.  It  is  a  mere  frame  made  of  light  wood, 
and  covered  with  cotton,  and  internally  furnished  with  little  conveniences  for 
the  use  of  the  traveler.  A  full  set  of  bearers  will  carry  a  person  forty  miles 
in  a  day,  and  return  the  same  night.  They  move  along  on  a  slight  trot,  all 
keeping  step,  and  beguile  their  time  with  songs,  indicative  of  the  character 
of  the  person  they  are  carrying,  such  as  these : 

SONGS  OP  PALANQUIN  BEARERS. 

A  HEAVY  PASSENGER.  A  LADY  PASSENGER. 

"  Oh  what  a  heavy  bag,  Ho  I  Ho  I  She's  not  heavy,  Putterum,  (care) 

He  is  ample  weight,       "      "  Carry  her  softly,         " 

Let's  let  his  Palkee  down,    "  Nice  little  lady,  " 

Let's  set  him  in  the  mud,     "  Here's  a  bridge,  " 

NTo,  but  he'll  be  angry  then,  Carry  her  carefully, 

Ay,  and  he'll  beat  us  then,  Carry  her  gently,         " 

Then  let  us  hasten  on,  "  Sing  along  cheerily, 

Jump  along !  jump  along  !  Putterum,  Putterum." 

The  Hindoos  are  not  fond  of  work,  and  employ  much  of  their  time  in  at- 
tending religious  festivals  ;  and  in  playing  various  games,  as  cards,  backgam- 
mon, dominoes,  checkers,  chess;  also  in  cock-fighting,  dancing,  hunting,  the- 
atrical amusements,  etc. 

They  love,  in  common  with  other  Asiatics,  to  retire  with  their  women  and 
children,  to  some  cool  spot  near  a  river  or  tank,  shaded  by  the  friendly 
banyan  tree,  or  spreading  mango ;  there  they  enjoy  that  sort  of  indolent  re- 
pose which  they  are  so  fond  of ;  and  partake  of  an  innocent  repast  of  fruit 
and  herbs,  on  the  verdant  carpet.  The  wealthy  classes  entertain  their 
friends  at  their  garden  houses  ;  but  in  these  mixed  companies  no  women  are 
present  except  the  dancing  girls,  or  tolerated  courtezans,  who  are  accom- 
panied by  musicians,  playing  on  instruments  resembling  the  guitar  and  violin. 
These  singing  men  and  singing  women  are  hired  at  festivals,  and  grand 
solemnities,  among  all  sects  and  persuasions  in  India.  Many  of  the  dancing 
girls  are  extremely  delicate  in  their  persons,  soft,  and  regular  in  their  features, 
with  forms  of  perfect  symmetry;  and  although  dedicated  from  infancy  to  this 
profession,  they  in  general  preserve  a  decency  and  modesty  in  their  de- 
meanor, which  are  more  likely  to  allure,  than  the  shameless  effrontery  of 
similar  characters  in  other  countries.  Their  dances  require  great  attention, 
from  the  dancers'  feet  being  hung  with  small  bells,  which  sound  in  concert 
with  the  music.  Two  girls  usually  perform  at  the  same  time;  their  steps  are 
not  so  mazy  or  active  as  ours,  but  much  more  interesting ;  as  the  song,  the 
music,  and  the  motions  of  the  dance,  combine  to  express  love,  hope,  jealousy, 


LJFE  IN  INDIA  541 

despair,  and  the  passions  so  well  known  to  lovers.     The  people  are  very  fond 
of  these  entertainments,  and  lavish  large  sums  on  their  favorites. 

Another  kind  of  dancing  girls  is  dedicated  to  the  principal  Hindoo 
temples.  These  are  supplied  by  their  parents,  who  are  taught,  that  the  pre- 
sentation of  a  beautiful  daughter  to  the  deity,  is  highly  acceptable;  they  dance 
and  sing  at  the  festivals,  and  is  the  mistresses  of  the  priests.  In  these,  and 
many  other  customs,  the  Hindoos  resemble  the  ancient  Greeks. 

One  cannot  live  long  among  the  Hindoos  without  observing  the  vast  dis- 
crepancy between  the  results  of  their  industrial  occupations  and  the  means 
by  which  they  are  accomplished.  In  many  departments  of  art,  India  knows 
no  superior,  the  world  over,  and  yet  the  machinery  employed  is  of  the  most 
simple  and  primitive  kind  ;  such,  indeed,  as  no  European  artisan  would  use 
in  forming  the  rudest  structure  or  the  coarsest  fabric. 

As  the  stay  of  Mr.  Malcolm  was  brief,  and  his  observations  comparatively 
limited,  we  have  derived  our  account  of  Hindoostan  from  other  sources. 
We  now  follow  him  in  his  travels  among  the  Malays,  and  the  Siamese.  On 
the  19th  of  April  (1837),  after  an  agreeable  passage  in  a  large  vessel  from 
Hindoostan,  which  happened  fortunately  to  be  free  from  the  usual  accompani- 
ment of  scorpions,  centipedes,  cockroaches,  and  other  noxious  vermin,  he 
arrived  safely  at  Singapore,  the  principal  town  of  the  small  island  of  the 
same  name,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Malay  Peninsula.  While  there, 
he  made  a  trip  to  Malacca,  in  the  Malay  peninsula,  in  a  small  country  brig, 
the  voyage  across  occupying  four  days.  The  city  which  has  been  by  turns, 
in  possession  of  the  Portuguese  and  the  Dutch,  in  1 825  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  English,  and  is  now  an  important  place.  It  is  the  head  quarters  of 
the  military  force  in  the  straits.  The  English  officers  of  six  companies  of 
native  troops,  with  the  English  merchants,  form  an  agreeable  social 
circle. 

As  elsewhere  throughout  India,  the  European  colonial  system  has  been  of 
not  the  least  benefit  to  the  moral  and  physical  well-being  of  the  Malays. 
The  noted  college  established  at  Malacca  by  the  missionaries,  is  but  a  sort  of 
school  where  the  natives  are  taught  the  common  English  branches.  The 
missionaries  have  devoted  themselves  principally  to  schools,  and  in  translat- 
ing the  Scriptures  and  tracts,  of  which  great  numbers  have  been  distributed, 
as  yet,  with  such  poor  results,  that  Mr.  Malcolm  could  not  learn  of  a  single 
Malay  convert  in  the  whole  country. 

The  Malay  peninsula  is  about  750  miles  long,  with  a  breadth  of  from 
60  to  170  miles.  The  northern  parts  belong  to  Siam.  It  is  thinly  settled, 
and  is  the  only  country  of  much  extent  wholly  inhabited  by  Malays,  a  people 
everywhere  Mahommedans,  and  devoted  to  commerce  and  piracy,  and  far  in- 
ferior in  civilization,  to  the  inhabitants  of  Java,  Japan,  Cochin  China,  and 
Siam.  The  common  people  are  in  effect  but  slaves  to  their  ch:'efs,  who  are 
their  property,  and  employ  or  sell  them  at  option.  Scattered  upon  the  penin 
sula,  are  various,  and  almost  unknown  wild  tribes  ;  some  of  these  are  negro 
tribes,  compared  to  whom  the  Negroes  of  Africa  and  New  Guinea  are  civil- 
ized.    They  seem  to  be  a  distinct  creation,  averaging  less  than  five  feet  in 


542  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

height.     They  dwell  in  trees,  and  in  the  cliffs  of  the  rocks,  and  scaicely  sur- 
pass apes  in  intellect. 

On  the  24th  of  May,  1837,  Mr.  Malcolm  left  Singapore  in  a  vessel,  and  on 
the  4th  of  June  arrived  at  the  town  of  Paknam,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Siam.  According  to  custom  with  foreigners,  he  here  reported  himself  to  the 
native  governor  of  the  province,  whose  residence  was  mean  and  dirty.  The 
hall  of  audience  was  a  burlesque  on  official  pomp,  presenting  an  odd  collection 
of  old  dirty  dust-covered  chandeliers,  Dutch  and  Chinese  mirrors,  paper 
hangings,  pictures,  etc.  In  the  midst  sat  his  Highness,  squatted  on  a  mat, 
with  nothing  to  cover  his  nakedness  except  a  cloth  around  his  loins.  Crouched 
around  in  abject  servility  were  his  attendants,  fearful  of  raising  their  heads 
higher  than  his.  In  our  country  an  inferior  stands  :  in  Burmah  and  Siam, 
he  seats  himself  if  we  stand — squats  if  we  sit,  and  leans  on  his  elbows  if  we 
sit  on  the  floor.  It  is  an  insult  to  raise  one's  head  above  a  superior  or  an 
equal.  In  conformity  with  this  custom,  servants  as  they  enter  their  master's 
presence  with  food  are  compelled  to  crawl  in  on  their  elbows  and  bellies,  push- 
ing the  waiter  on  the  floor  ahead  of  them.  It  is  amusing  to  see  the  half- 
grown  boys  of  the  nobility,  attended  by  servants  moving  about  on  their  knees 
for  fear  of  raising  their  heads  higher  than  their  young  masters.  Having 
replied  to  the  innumerable  questions  of  the  governor,  Mr.  Malcolm  was 
allowed  to  proceed  in  an  open  pinnace  to  Bankok,  twenty-five  miles  farther 
up  the  river.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  the  country  seemed  unin- 
habited ;  occasionally  forts  were  passed,  resembling  those  of  European  con- 
struction. As  they  neared  Bankok,  the  shores  were  lined  with  houses, 
enveloped  in  dense  clusters  of  palm  and  other  fruit-trees  ;  in  the  rear  of 
thes-3  extended  vast  fields  of  rice. 

Bankok,  the  capital  of  Siam,  has  about  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  occupies  an  island,  and  both  shores  of  the  river  for  several  miles,  and  con- 
sists principally  of  bamboo  huts.  It  has,  however,  several  temples  richly 
gilt,  and  the  King's  palaces  are  large  Chinese-like  structures.  On  ascending 
the  river,  one  sees  on  each  side  rows  of  mean,  floating  buildings,  many  of  which 
are  open  in  front,  and  are  used  as  shops.  Before  these  are  displayed  the 
goods  in  a  succession  of  half  a  dozen  or  more  shelves,  ranged  like  stairs,  one 
behind  the  other  ;  beside  them  is  the  shopkeeper,  squatted  on  a  mat.  These 
structures  stand  on  bamboo  rafts,  prevented  from  floating  off  by  bamboo 
piles  driven  outside  into  the  clayey  bottom  of  the  river.  Immense  Chinese 
junks  are  seen  at  anchor,  and  plying  about  in  all  directions  ;  boats  of  all  sizes, 
some  of  which  are  occupied  as  shops  by  fruit-sellers,  and  petty  traders  of 
every  variety.  Cargo  boats,  yawls,  sampans  and  pleasure  boats  complete 
the  novel  scene.  On  each  side  of  the  stream,  behind  all,  tower  handsome 
pagodas,  from  what  appears  a  forest ;  but  is  in  reality  a  city  enveloped  in 
foliage.  Almost  every  house  in  Bankok  is  reached  by  the  canals  or  ditches, 
which  penetrate  it  everywhere,  so  that  the  water  is  at  the  same  time  the  high- 
way, the  canal,  the  market,  and  the  exchange  ground. 

The  empire  of  Siam  is  about  nine  hundred  miles  long,  with  a  variable 
breadth  of  from  fifty  to  four  hundred  miles.     It  generally  is  mounfainous,  Df 


LIFE  IN  INDIA.  543 

a  pooi  soil,  and  thinly  settled.  A  part  has  a  dense  population,  and  yields 
immense  quantities  of  fruits,  and  is  prolific  in  dye-woods,  medicinal  gums,  and 
timber.  Half  of  its  three  millions  of  people  are  Siamese,  about  one  quarter 
Shyans,  and  the  remaining  quarter  Chinese  and  Malays. 

The  men  are  very  short,  and  sometimes  good-looking  ;  the  women  never.  All 
the  hair  that  either  sex  wear  is  a  small  tuft  extending  from  the  forehead 
to  the  crown,  and  as  both  dress  alike  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  a  man  from 
a  woman.  Printed  cloth  is  the  usual  dress  of  the  people.  This  is  folded 
round  the  hips,  with  the  end  passing  under  the  body  and  tucked  in  at  the 
back.  A  narrow  scarf  is  worn  by  the  better  classes  of  young  females,  passing 
across  the  breast  under  one  shoulder  and  over  the  other.  A  palm-leafed 
hat,  shaped  like  a  milk-pan  turned  bottom  side  up,  is  used.  To  permit  circu- 
lation of  air,  this  is  set  up  from  the  head  several  inches  on  a  frame  of  elastic 
bamboo.  The  chief  amusements  are  play-acting,  cock-fighting,  and  flying 
kites  :  in  the  two  last,  old  and  young,  princes  and  priest,  take  especial 
delight. 

The  Siamese  are  crafty,  mean,  ignorant,  conceited,  slothful,  servile,  rapa- 
cious, cowardly  and  cruel.  If  detected  in  fraud  or  falsehood,  they  never  even 
blush.  But,  like  all  of  the  human  race,  they  have  some  good  traits.  They 
are  much  attached  to  their  children,  and,  like  the  Chinese,  greatly  reverence 
their  parents.  A  son  never  stands  before  his  parents,  or  sits  on  the  same 
level  with  his  father,  and  once  a  month  the  emperor  himself  comes  in  pre- 
sence of  his  mother,  on  his  knees.  They  are  amiable,  temperate,  and  inquisi- 
tive. Woman  is  remarkably  favored.  She  is  free  from  the  laborious 
drudgery  common  in  some  Christian  countries,  and  in  a  few  respects  has 
more  influence  even  than  with  us. 

They  are  not  quite  as  civilized  as  the  Burmese,  but  their  houses,  dress, 
and  habits,  and  general  condition  are  much  beyond  the  rudest  forms  of  society. 
Slavery  exists,  and  the  chiefs  frequently  own  thousands  of  slaves.  Some  of 
the  neighboring  districts  have  been  almost  depopulated  by  wars  made  for  this 
purpose,  and  the  inhabitants  carried  captive  to  Siam. 

The  government,  though  radically  despotic,  is  beneficial  to  the  people. 
The  sovereign  is  never  spoken  of  but  with  the  utmost  reverence,  and  in  public 
is  always  alluded  to  as  "  the  most  exalted  lord,"  infallible  and  infinitely  pow- 
erful. Every  thing  connected  with  his  person  is  called  golden.  A  visitor 
will  say  that  he  '*  approached  his  magnificent  majesty's  golden  feet,"  that 
"  he  addressed  his  majesty's  golden  ear,  etc." 

The  Siamese  are  Buddhists,  and  among  their  customs  is  the  singular  one, 
that  every  Siamese  must  be  a  priest  three  months  in  his  life.  He  can  then 
leave  the  priesthood  ;  but  if  he  again  assumes  the  yellow  robe,  it  must  be  foT 
life.  Their  hierarchy  resembles  that  of  the  Catholic  church,  with  officers 
respectively  corresponding  to  the  pope,  cardinals,  archbishops,  bishops,  and 
other  dignitaries.  Their  temples,  or  *  wats"  are  numerous  and  expensive, 
and  in  Bankok  and  vicinity  exceed  a  hundred.  Their  architecture  is  Chi 
nese,  mingled  with  incongruous  additions  by  Portuguese,  Siamese,  or  Peguat 
artists.  Generally  they  are  of  brick,  externally  plastered  ani  adorned  with 
an    \bsurd    mosaic    of    flowers  and    figures,    funned    of  *vho!e    and    broken 


544  LIFE  IN  INDIA. 

crockery.  Alike  in  the  wats  and  private  dwellings,  a  trace  of  Egyptian 
architecture  exists  in  the  tapering  forms  of  all  the  windows  and  doors. 

Siara  has  considerable  commerce.  At  least  two  hundred  Chinese  junks, 
some  of  a  thousand  tons  burden,  ply  regularly  between  China  and  Bankok. 
The  annual  exports  from  Bankok  amount  to  five  millions  of  dollars  :  these  are 
principally  sugar,  supan-wood,  tin,  timber,  rice,  stick-lac,  gamboge,  frankin- 
cense, ivory,  pepper  and  cotton.  The  imports  are  arms,  ammunition,  anchors, 
dry  goods,  cutlery,  crockery,  mirrors,  and  many  other  productions  of  Europe 
and  China.  Sugar  and  the  other  staple  exports  are  raised  in  Siam  by  the 
industry  of  the  Chinese  emigrants,  a  class  of  people,  through  whose  exertions 
principally,  the  country  has  arisen  from  barbarism. 

Our  traveler  remained  seven  weeks  in  Siam,  and  from  thence  set  sail  for 
China,  and  on  the  25th  of  March,  1838,  was  again  in  his  native  land.  During 
his  absence  of  two  years  and  a-half,  he  made  nineteen  voyages  by  sea,  four- 
teen voyages  by  river,  and  several  journeys  by  land,  passing  over  a  space  of 
more  than  fifty-three  thousand  miles.  "  In  all  these  wanderings,"  says  he, 
"  often  in  dangerous  and  ill-fitted  vessels,  and  regions  unhealthy,  or  infested 
with  robbers,  I  was  neither  hurt  nor  molested  ;  nor  was  any  person  hurt  or 
taken  sick  where  I  was." 


RAILROADS    IN    HINDOOSTAN. 

The  recent  development  of  railways  in  Hindoostan  has  riveted  India  to 
the  British  throne  more  strongly  than  ever.  Charles  Carleton  Coffin,  in 
"Our  New  Way  Bound  the  World"  has  given  us  some  facts  upon  this 
point : 

"  Up  to  1853  locomotion  through  India  was  attended  with  great  difficul- 
ties. The  Ganges  and  the  Indus  are  the  only  navigable  rivers,  and  these, 
during  the  dry  season,  can  only  be  ascended  by  small  sail  and  row  boats. 
The  government  had  opened  here  and  there  a  highway  connecting  interior 
military  stations  with  Bombay,  Calcutta,  and  Madras ;  but  the  empire,  con- 
taining one  million  four  hundred  thousand  square  miles,  had  few  carriage- 
roads.  Travelers  sometimes  made  their  way  from  point  to  point  in  carts 
drawn  by  oxen;  but  the  usual  conveyance  was  a  palanquin,  borne  on  men's 
shoulders.  Some  of  the  paths  were  tolerable  in  dry  weather,  but  during  the 
rainy  season  wholly  impassable. 

Such  were  the  facilities  for  travel  when  the  project  of  constructing  rail- 
roads was  agitated.  The  plan  was  opposed  by  many,  not  only  in  India,  but 
in  England.  It  was  asserted  that  the  natives  never  could  be  induced  to  enter 
a  railway -car  on  account  of  their  religion,  which  forbids  an  intermingling  of 
castes.  The  Hindoos  belonged  to  a  sluggish,  indolent  race.  Contact  with 
Europeans  for  a  century  had  not  quickened  the  millions  of  India,  and  it  was 
doubtful  if  they  could  be  vitalized  by  any  of  the  appliances  of  modern  civili- 
zation. So  incredulous  were  the  public  of  obtaining  any  returns  for  their 
money,  that  with  difficulty  sufficient  funds  could  be  obtained  for  the  opening 
of  a  short  experimental  line  at  Calcutta,  and  another  at  Bombay. 


RAILROADS  IN   HINDOOSTAN.  545 

Contrary  to  expectation,  it  was  soon  discovered  that  the  natives  were  eager 
to  avail  themselves  of  this  new  mode  of  travel.  The  success  of  the  experi- 
ment was  unmistakable,  and  measures  were  taken  to  develop  a  grand  system 
of  railways,  to  afford  more  direct  and  speedy  communication  between  the 
chief  cities  of  the  seaboard  and  the  interior. 

The  railway  system  of  India  now  embraces  about  five  thousand  miles.  A 
uniform  gauge  was  adopted  at  the  outset  by  the  government, — that  of  five 
feet  six  inches, — a  medium  between  the  broad  and  narrow  gauges  of  England. 

The  construction  of  these  railways  has  been  beneficial  not  only  to  India, 
but  to  Great  Britain,  whence  all  the  materials  used  in  their  construction 
have  tjeen  transported,  giving  a  great  stimulus  to  British  industry,  and 
employing  a  vast  amount  of  shipping.  Between  1853  and  186V  more  than 
three  and  a  half  million  tons'  weight  of  railway  material  was  shipped  from 
English  ports. 

The  grading  was  done  by  natives,  who  at  first  declined  to  work  for  the 
contractors,  fearing  that  they  would  be  cheated  out  of  their  earnings.  To  in- 
spire confidence,  payments  were  made  every  night,  and  this  soon  brought  a 
multitude  of  laborers.  The  wages  were  about  ten  cents  per  day,  —  a  small 
sum,  but  the  Hindoo  at  manual  labor  can  not  accomplish  more  than  one- 
third  as  much  as  a  European,  and  the  cost  of  his  support  is  comparatively 
trifling. 

We  see  several  thousand  men  and  women  at  work  upon  the  unfinished 
lines.  They  fill  their  baskets  with  earth,  raise  the  burden  to  the  top  of  the 
head,  walk  in  single  file  from  the  gravel-pit  to  the  line  of  the  road,  and  dump 
it  upon  the  embankment.  One  of  the  contractors  distributed  several  thousand 
wheelbarrows,  and  sent  word  that  they  must  be  used.  A.  few  days  later  he 
went  out  and  found  all  hands  carrying  them  on  the  top  of  the  head  ! 

The  incident  illustrates  the  tenacity  with  which  the  masses  adhere  to  old 
customs. 

The  road  leading  from  Bombay  to  the  valley  of  the  Ganges,  though  opened 
only  a  portion  of  the  way,  has  paid  five  per  cent,  since  1866  ;  that  completed 
up  the  valley  of  the  Ganges,  and  that  leading  from  Madras  across  Southern 
India,  have  likewise  earned  five  per  cent. 

The  chief  revenue  is  derived  from  third-class  passengers.  It  was  early 
discovered  that  the  natives  would  ride  often  if  the  fares  were  put  at  a  low 
rate  ;   and  the  companies  wisely  adopted  such  a  tariff*  as  would  develop  travel. 

In  1867  there  were  thirteen  million  seven  hundred  and  sixty-four  thous- 
and passengers,  and  all  but  about  six  hundred  thousand  were  third-class. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  railroad  enterprise,  the  Brahmans  petitioned 
for  the  running  of  caste  cars.  They  could  not  come  in  contact  with  men  of 
lower  grade.  It  would  defile  their  sacred  persons,  and  unfit  them  for  their 
high  destiny  —  absorption  into  Brahma  after  death.  But  the  railroad  man- 
agers had  an  eye  to  profits  on  their  investment.  They  could  not  put  on  cars 
for  each  separate  caste.     Such  a  procedure  would  be  attended  with  great  con- 


546  RAILROADS   IN   HINDOOSTAN. 

fusion  in  management,  and  increased  expense.  They  therefore  adopted  the 
European  system  of  class-cars,  and  told  the  Brahmans  they  could  stay  at 
home  if  they  could  not  accommodate  themselves  to  established  rules. 

The  result  is  a  complete  breaking  up  of  caste  on  the  railroad.  Now  the 
priest,  who  is  pure  enough  to  enter  the  most  exalted  circle  of  the  Hindoo 
heaven,  for  the  sake  of  saving  a  few  rupees,  can  sit  all  day  in  a  locked  car- 
riage on  a  hard  bench,  between  two  outcast  Pariahs,  the  vilest  of  the  vile, 
for  whom  there  is  no  place  in  paradise.  The  Brahman  may  drop  off  to  sleep, 
and  his  head  rest  upon  the  shoulders  of  the  degraded  wretches,  yet  he  is  not 
defiled  ! 

Under  Mohammedan  rule,  idolatry  was,  in  a  great  measure,  suppressed ; 
but  when  the  English  came  into  power,  they  refrained  from  interference  with 
religious  rites  and  ceremonies,  and  the  Hindoos  became  very  zealous  for  a 
revival  of  their  decaying  faith.  Suttee  was  allowed,  and  there  was  no  check 
upon  infanticide.  Temples  which  had  been  broken  down  were  repaired,  and 
new  ones  constructed.  The  wealthy  gave  liberally,  nor  did  the  poor  with- 
hold their  contributions,  till,  in  every  shady  grove  and  by  every  running 
stream,  there  was  a  temple  to  Krishna,  Vishnu,  or  some  other  deity  of  the 
Hindoo  pantheon.  It  is  stated  that,  at  the  present  time,  there  are  not  less 
than  thirty  thousand  idol  temples  in  the  Bombay  Presidency  alone. 

But  a  change  is  taking  place  among  the  people.  Formerly  it  was  believed 
that  the  gods  alone  conferred  wealth,  honor,  and  distinction  ;  but  the  natives 
begin  to  see  that  steady  industry  brings  wealth  to  those  who  have  no  faith 
in  idols  as  well  as  to  the  most  devout  worshiper  of  the  manufactured  deities. 
Ten  years  ago,  five  thousand  images  of  the  idol  Doorga  were  sold  at  the 
annual  festival  held  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges  in  honor  of  that  god ;  but 
since  the  opening  of  railroads  the  sale  has  almost  wholly  ceased. 

The  locomotive,  like  a  ploughshare  turning  the  sward  of  the  prairies,  is 
cutting  up  a  faith  whose  roots  run  down  deep  into  by-gone  ages.  It  is 
dragging  a  mighty  train  laden  with  goods  for  the  whole  human  race,  and 
especially  for  the  millions  of  this  land.  The  engine  does  not  turn  out  for 
obstructions  such  as,  in  former  days,  impeded  the  car  of  progress  ;  it  makes 
mince-meat  of  bulls,  be  they  bovine,  Brahminical,  or  Papal.  The  days  of 
Brahma  are  numbered ;  and  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  regenerated 
India  will  clap  her  hands  for  joy  over  the  decision  of  those  who  directed  that 
there  should  be  no  distinction  of  caste  in  railway  carriages. " 


FISK'S 


TRAVELS    IN    ITALY. 


ITALIAN    LANDSCAPE. 


CHAPTER   I. 

Sketch  of  Italy— Entrance  into  the  Country — Turin — Miserable  Population— Kecent  Reforms 
in  Sardinia — Field  of  Marengo— Passage  of  the  Apennines— Genoa — Birthplace  of  Colunv- 
bus — Curious  Customs— Glorious  Views— Florence — Venus  de  Medici— Disgusting  Specta- 
cle— Pisa — The  Carnival  —  Leghorn — Rome — Beggars— Cicero's  Monument— Naples-  - 
Lazzaroni — Vailed  Statuary— Cemetery  for  the  Poor — Relics  from  Pompeii. 

Italy  is  in  its  greatest  length  6>95  miles,  with  a  variable  breadth  of  from 
20  to  275  miles,  and  an  area  of  125,000  miles,  including  its  large  islands  of 
Sicily,  Sardinia,  and  Corsica.  In  Northern  Italy,  between  the  Alps  and  the 
Apennines,  is  the  great  plain  of  Lombardy,  noted  for  ages  for  its  exceeding 
fertility  ;  extending  250  miles  east  and  west,  with  an  average  length  of  5V 
miles. 

547 


548  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

The  climate  is  various,  depending  upon  -the  latitude  and  proximity  of  its 
different  parts  to  the  sea  and  the  mountains.  In  Lombardy  and  the  North- 
ern States  the  thermometer  sometimes  falls  to  within  10°  of  zero  ;  the  more 
tender  plants  cannot  be  cultivated,  and  chilling  winds  from  the  Apennines 
continue  for  nearly  all  the  winter  months.  The  climate  of  Tuscany  and  the 
Papal  States*  south  of  the  Apennines,  is  favorable  to  the  orange,  the  lemon, 
and  the  olive,  although  slight  snows  are  not  uncommon.  The  climate  of  Con- 
tinental Naples  is  hot,  and  the  winters  short  and  mild.  In  Calabria  Ultra 
and  Sicily  snow  is  never  seen,  nor  in  the  former,  except  on  the  summits  of 
mountains,  and  tropical  fruits  here  attain  the  greatest  perfection.  The  clas- 
sification applies  only  to  the  low  lands,  as  the  Alps  are  clothed  in  perpetual 
snow,  and  the  northern  Apennines  for  months  during  the  year.  The  climate 
of  Naples  is  considered  the  most  desirable,  the  mean  temperature  in  winter 
being  just  below  freezing,  and  in  the  summer  at  67°;  yet  it  has  great  inconve- 
niences ;  for^many  months  little  or  no  rain  fall's,  and  vegetation  is  burnt  to  a 
russet  hue  ;  no  cool  breezes  fan  the  feverish  brow  ;  the  sirocco,  from  Africa, 
depresses  both  animal  and  vegetable  life  ;  volcanic  heat  glows  continually  un- 
der ground,  and  occasionally  vomits  forth  noxious  vapors,  and  threatens  to 
destroy  whole  districts ;  swarms  of  noxious  insects  fill  the  air,  and  the  Pontine 
marshes  and  similar  swamps  generate  miasmata  fatal  to  life.  The  fairest  sky 
deceives  in  its  beauty  ;  and  where  the  vegetation  is  most  luxuriant,  there 
lurk  disease  and  death.  The  very  circumstances  which  form  the  charm  and 
the  theme  of  praise  of  the  Italian  climate  are  those  which  render  it  dan- 
gerous. 

The  Italians  are  a  mixed  race  of  Greeks,  Germans,  Gauls,  and  many  others 
intermingled  with  the  aborigines.  They  have  lf>ng  been  divided  into  separate 
tribes,  with  dialects  so  various,  that  the  people  of  one  province  can  scarcely, 
if  at  all,  understand  those  of  another.  From  them  has  been  formed  a  lan- 
guage called  the  Tuscan,  based  on  the  Latm,  which  is  used  by  all  educated 
men,  and  by  her  celebrated  writers  of  the  middle  ages. 

No  civilized  country  is  so  degraded  as  Italy — no  civilized  people  sc 
wretched  as  the  Italians.  The  country  is  full  of  beggars,  and  swarms  of 
priests,  said  to  amount  to  half  a  million,  devour  the  substance  of  the  land. 
The  cares  of  the  present  absorb  all  tire  attention  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
cities  ;  in  the  country,  the  mass  of  the  agriculturists  eke  out  a  miserable  sub- 
sistence, dwelling  in  rude  hovels,  on  little  farms  rarely  of  over  four  acres  in 
area,  the  produce  of  half  of  which  is  claimed  by  the  owners. 

The  great  mass  of  the  common  people  are  deplorably  ignorant ;  seldom  one 
is  found  that  can  either  read  or  write.  Even  the  learned  institutions  are  far 
behind  those  of  other  European  countries,  and  nothing  is  taught  calculated 
to  foster  freedom  and  expansion  of  mind.  Yet,  in  spite  of  these  difficulties, 
many  of  the  Italians  become  highly  educated.  All  Italy  is  Roman  Catholic, 
and  nowhere  are  the  ceremonies  of  that  church  performed  with  more  pomp 
and  ceremony.  The  higher  clergy  possess  great  power,  and  all  the  clergy 
have  special  privileges,  and  are  generally  free  from  taxation. 

"  The  national  character  and  the  state  of  society  in  Italy,  are  marked  by 
prominent  and  striking  features.     The  people,  in  some  respects,  are,  perhaps, 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  18   ITALY.  549 

the  most  polished  and  refined  of  any  in  the  world.  While  the  German,  and 
many  English  nobles,  place  their  enjoyment  in  hunting,  and  the  pleasures 
of  the  table,  music,  painting,  poetry,  and  assemblies  for  conversation.,  form 
the  delight  of  the  Italians. 

No  pains  are  bestowed  on  the  improvement  of  their  estates,  which  are 
managed  according  to  a  mechanical  routine,  under  the  care  of  stewards,  who 
often  embezzle  a  great  part  of  the  produce.  Being  excluded,  also,  from  all 
concern  in  public  affairs,  and  from  the  administration  of  the  state,  they  have 
become  estranged  from  habits  of  manly  and  energetic  exertion.  They  pass 
their  lives  in  a  listless  and  lounging  apathy,  making  it  their  sole  object  to 
while  away  the  hour  in  the  most  easy  and  agreeable  manner.  Their  day  is 
spent  in  a  regular  routine  of  attendance  on  mass,  on  their  lady,  on  the  thea- 
ter, the  Casino,  and  the  Corso.  As  the  title  and  rank  of  a  noble  descend  to 
all  his  posterity,  the  great  increase  in  their  number,  by  reducing  them  to  a 
miserable  and  proud  poverty,  tends  still  more  to  degrade  them  in  the  public 
eye.  Ostentatious  magnificence  is  combined  with  sordid  economy  ;  the  most 
superb  equipages  and  apartments  are  let  out  to  foreigners,  who  are  not  even 
quite  sure  of  honest  dealing.  Attached  to  many  of  the  Florentine  palaces  is 
a  little  shop,  where  wine  is  retailed  in  the  smallest  quantities.  But  the  deep- 
est reproach  of  Italian  manners,  seems  to  be  the  established  system  by  which 
every  married  lady  must  have  her  lover,  who  imposes  on  himself  the  duty, 
wherever  she  is  or  goes,  to  dangle  after  her  as  her  devoted  slave.  This  con- 
nection is  said  to  be  not  decidedly,  or  at  least  certainly,  criminal,  as  our  man- 
ners would  lead  us  to  suppose,  but  rather  to  form  an  ttat  into  which  it  is 
necessary  to  enter,  on  pain  of  expulsion  from  the  fashionable  circles,  and 
which  is  continued  according  to  a  routine  of  almost  mechanical  observance. 

The  charitable  institutions  of  Naples,  Rome,  Milan,  and  Genoa,  appear 
to  be  most  extensive  ;  and  the  bounty  bestowed,  especially  at  the  convents,  is 
considered  as  one  of  the  chief  causes  of  the  idleness  and  mendicity  which 
prevail  in  the  great  cities.  Temperance  must  be  admitted  as  another  virtue 
of  the  Italians.  Notwithstanding  the  abundance  and  cheapness  of  wine,  in- 
toxication is  scarcely  known,  even  among  the  lower  ranks. 

The  lower  ranks  form  the  mass  of  the  Italian  population,  with  scarcely  any 
intervening  class  between  them  and  the  nobles.  They  share,  in  some  degree, 
the  refined  tastes  and  manners  of  the  higher  ranks.  The  common  shopkeep- 
ers of  Florence  and  Rome,  possess  a  taste  in  the  fine  arts,  and  sometimes  even 
in  poetry,  which  is  unknown  in  the  most  polished  circles  beyond  the  Alps. 
They  delight  also  in  conversation,  which  they  support  with  -peculiar  anima- 
tion, and  with  gesticulations,  the  most  varied  and  expressive  of  any  Euro- 
pean people.  The  peasantry  are,  on  the  whole,  a  poor,  quiet,  contented,  or- 
derly race ;  spending,  not  very  wisely,  all  their  little  savings  in  finery  foi 
their  wives  and  daughters.  But  the  populace  of  the  great  towns  display  a 
character  peculiarly  idle,  tumultuary,  and  unlicensed.  They  seem  to  combine 
the  characters  of  citizens,  beggars,  and  bandits.  The  lazzaroni  of  Naples,  in 
particular,  form  a  numerous  body,  who  exist  almost  wholly  out  of  the  pale  of 
regular  society. 

In  political  convulsions,  they  have  made  very  signal  displays  of  energy, 


550  FtSK'S  TRAVELS   IN  ITALY. 

usually  in  defense  of  the  reigning  family,  to  whom  they  are  strongly  attached. 
The  practice  of  assassination,  whether  for  hire,  or  on  the  impulse  of  passion, 
which  was  long  peculiarly  Italian,  is  said  to  have  been  considerably  reduced 
by  the  French.  They  deprived  the  sanctuaries  of  their  right  to  protect  the 
assassin  ;  and  that  right  has  not  since  been  restored  to  them.  Another  nu- 
merous class  were  the  bandits,  who,  established  in  the  recesses  of  the  Apen- 
nines, formed  a  sort  of  separate  people,  and  carried  on  their  vocation  on  a 
great  and  regular  scale.  The  strength  of  their  line  of  mountain  positions, 
which  ran  close  and  parallel  to  that  of  the  high  road  through  Italy,  afforded 
them  opportunities  of  which  they  knew  well  how  to  profit.  The  road  from 
Rome  to  Naples  was  their  favorite  haunt,  and  even  when  guarded  by  pickets 
of  soldiers,  at  the  distance  of  every  mile,  it  could  not  always  be  traveled 
with  safety.  They  carried  on  their  trade  in  a  systematic  manner,  and  not 
without  some  adherence  to  the  principle  of  honor,  when  it  was  once  pledged. 
Their  grand  aim  was  to  carry  off  some  person  of  distinction,  and  then  to  ex- 
act a  ransom  proportioned  to  his  means  and  dignity.  The  French  and  the 
German  troops,  stationed  in  Naples,  rooted  out  most  of  these  dens  of  banditti. 

The  history  of  Italy  is  unrivaled  in  the  magnitude  of  its  events,  and  their 
influence  upon  the  general  destinies  of  the  world.  Our  limits  and  plan  can 
allow  only  a  very  hasty  sketch  of  the  mighty  revolutions  of  which  this 
country  has  been  the  center. 

Of  the  early  nations  of  Italy  but  little  is  known.  The  Etruscans,  by  the 
works  of  art  handed  down  by  them,  especially  in  the  form  of  terra-cottas, 
appear  to  have  been  a  civilized,  as  well  as  a  powerful,  and  free  people.  The 
s.oith,  colonized  from  Greece,  and  even  denominated  Magna  Greecia,  was  the 
seat  of  the  most  celebrated  of  the  early  schools  of  science  :  Pythagoras  taught 
at  Crotona  ;  and  the  Samnites,  by  their  gallant  resistance  to  Pyrrlms,  and 
afterward  to  the  Romans,  established  their  name  as  a  military  nation. 

Rome  sprung  up  amid  these  nations,  rather  as  a  band  of  refugees,  than  as 
a  regular  slate.  The  Romans  then  subjected,  one  after  another,  first  the 
neighboring  tribes,  then  the  whole  of  Italy;  and  afterward  crossed  the  seas, 
to  conquer  all  the  known  world.  Among  their  high  and  energetic  virtues, 
and  daring  exploits,  they  retained  still  a  character  of  rudeness  :  and  the  first 
influence  of  their  conquests,  was  to  extinguish  in  the  subject  nations  the  de- 
gree of  civilization  they  already  possessed.  Etruria  lost  her  early  arts,  and 
Carthage  that  immense  commerce  which  embraced  all  the  known  seas  of  the 
globe.  But  as  the  hardy  captains  of  Rome  penetrated  to  the  cities  of  Greece, 
and  saw  the  matchless  works  of  architecture  and  sculpture  with  which  they 
were  embellished,  their  rugged  pride  was  softened,  and  they  were  smitten 
with  the  love  of  those  beautiful  arts.  The  orators  of  the  Forum  sought  next 
to  transfer  the  splendid  powers  of  eloquence,  which  had  given  dignity  and 
splendor  to  Athens.  At  last,  Cicero  undertook  to  transplant  the  Grecian  phi- 
losophy. Unfortunately,  at  the  same  time,  the  chiefs  who  returned  laden 
with  the  spoils  of  so  many  nations,  introduced  an  unbounded  luxury,  which 
vitiated  altogether  the  truth  and  simplicity  of  ancient  manners. 

The  empire  of  Rome,  the  most  extensive  and  opulent  ever  established, 
was,  after  dreadful  convulsions,  erected  on  the  mighty  ruins  of  the  senate  and 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  551 

the  republic ;  and  the  world  became,  as  it  were,  the  inheritance  of  a  single 
man.  On  such  a  trying  and  perilous  eminence,  examples  were  presented  of 
the  most  unbounded  cruelty  and  dissoluteness ;  yet,  also,  of  the  most  wise 
and  enlightened  humanity.  During  the  Augustan  age,  poetry  and  all  the 
fine  arts  were  patronized  and  cultivated  with  ardor,  after  the  Grecian  model, 
and  carried  almost  to  an  equal  pitch  of  perfection.  The  oppressive  sway, 
however,  of  successive  tyrants,  and  the  brutal  license  of  the  praetorian  guards, 
soon  left  little  more  than  that  barbarous  voluptuousness  which  generally  cha- 
racterizes a  purely  despotic  government. 

The  decline  of  the  Roman  empire  was  attended  with  calamities  to  Italy  ant> 
to  mankind,  still  more  dreadful  than  those  with  which  its  rise  had  been  at- 
tended. The  barbarians  of  the  north  and  east  of  Europe,  allured  by  the  re- 
ported wealth  and  weakness  of  the  empire,  pressed  continually  closer  on  its 
frontier.  They  were  kept  in  check  for  some  time,  by  the  Danube  and  the 
Alps,  and  by  the  remaining  strength  of  the  legions.  At  length,  they  burst 
all  these  barriers,  and  ravaged  the  beautiful  plains  of  Italy.  The  transfer 
ence  to  Constantinople  of  the  seat  of  empire,  left  this  portion  with  an  unequal 
share  of  the  common  defense.  Rome  itself,  the  imperial  capital  of  the  world, 
became  the  prey  of  barbarians ;  it  was  successively  sacked  by  the  Goths, 
under  Alaric,  and  the  Vandals,  under  Genseric. 

The  scepter  was  snatched  from  the  feeble  hand  of  Augustulus,  and  the 
western  empire  was  extinguished.  The  kingdom  felt  a  gleam  of  reviving 
prosperity  under  Theodoric  the  Ostrogoth,  and  Theodosius  the  Great,  but 
was  soon  overwhelmed  by  fresh  swarms  of  barbarians,  among  whom,  the 
Lombards  were  the  most  conspicuous,  and  have  given  their  name  to  the 
northern  plain,  watered  by  the  Po. 

The  empire  of  Charlemagne  suspended  the  troubles  of  Italy,  but  formed 
the  commencement  of  that  long  series  of  ultramontane  dominion,  to  which 
Bhe  has  been  subjected.  When  the  members  of  that  empire,  France  and 
Germany,  separated  from  each  other,  Italy  fell  to  the  lot  of  Germany,  which 
retained  the  imperial  name  and  dignity,  but  ever  afterward  found  this  country 
a  turbulent  and  precarious  appanage. 

The  spiritual  authority  of  the  Popes,  formed  a  new  species  of  empire 
which  seemed  to  invest  Rome  with  a  grandeur  almost  equal  to  that  whici. 
she  had  displayed  under  the  Csesars.  After  a  gradual  progress,  it  rose  under 
Gregory  VII,  to  such  a  height  that  Henry  IV,  the  most  able  and  powerful 
prince  of  his  time,  was  fain  to  present  himself  bareheaded  and  barefooted, 
and  on  his  knees  implore  forgiveness  for  having  ventured  to  dispute  the  spi- 
ritual authority.  From  this  time,  these  proud  pontiffs  not  only  claimed  the 
right  of  disposing  absolutely,  throughout  the  Christian  world,  of  all  the  offi- 
cers and  ministers  of  religion,  and  of  exacting  from  it  the  regular  tribute  of 
"  Peter's  pence,"  but  even  of  excommunicating  and  deposing  the  greatest 
kings.  As  the  emperors,  however,  did  not  tamely  submit  to  these  usurpa- 
tions, from  a  power  which  they  considered,  in  a  temporal  sense,  as  subordi- 
aate,  a  series  of  struggles  ensued,  which  scandalized  the  church,  and  dis- 
tracted Europe. 

The  rise  of  the  commercial  republics,  Venice,  Genoa,  and  Florence,  formed 


552  FISK'S   TRAVELS  IS    JTALY. 

a  brilliant  era  for  Italy,  enabling  her  almost  to  equal  the  most  splendid  ages 
of  antiquity.  Their  navies,  both  for  war  and  commerce,  covered  the  seas, 
and  set  bounds  to  the  all-grasping  ambition  of  the  Ottoman,  which  threatened 
10  overwhelm  the  whole  western  world.  By  degrees,  also,  the  lamp  of 
learning,  which  had  shed  for  ages  only  a  dim  light  over  Europe,  broke  forth 
here  into  full  effulgence.  The  remains  of  Greek  literature  were  conveyed 
over  by  the  learned  men  who  fled  before  the  sword  of  the  Turks ;  the  wri- 
tings of  the  ancients  were  drawn  from  the  depth  of  convents,  and  eagerly 
studied  and  circulated.  What  was  of  more  consequence,  a  race  of  enlight- 
ened princes  and  nobles  arose,  who  sought  glory  in  patronizing  knowledge, 
while  a  general  taste  for  it  was  diffused  among  a  wealthy  and  refined  com- 
munity. The  arts  of  painting,  architecture,  and  music,  on  which  the  wealth 
of  the  noble  citizens  was  lavishly  expended,  rose  to  an  eminence  equaling, 
perhaps,  that  of  the  ancients,  and  surpassing  that  of  any  other  modern 
nation. 

The  decline  and  degradation  of  Italy  rapidly  ensued  after  this  brilliant  era. 
Her  great  republics  lost  the  liberty  which  had  rendered  them  so  flourishing ; 
their  arts  and  commerce  were  transferred  to  the  northern  maritime  states. 
The  great  monarchical  powers,  after  long  struggles,  reduced  her  territory  to  a 
state  either  of  subjection  or  vassalage ;  while  they  continued  at  the  same 
time  to  make  her  soil  one  of  the  great  theaters  of  contention.  Italy  had  rea- 
son more  and  more  to  deplore  'her  fatal  gift  of  beauty/  which  became  so 
fruitful  a  'source  of  present  woes  and  past;'  she  was  branded  even  with 
the  appellation  of  'slave  of  slaves.'  Rome,  herself,  lost  her  spiritual 
greatness,  which  was  withered  even  in  Catholic  countries,  by  the  progress  of 
reformation. 


It  was  toward  the  last  days  of  the  year  that  our  countryman,  the  late  Rev. 
Or.  Fisk,*  traveling  in  a  diligence  from  Paris,  entered  Turin,  the  residence 
of  the  king  of  Sardinia.  Arriving  in  the  country  on  Christmas  day,  he  saw 
the  priests  and  people  everywhere  engaged  in  religious  ceremonies,  and  soon  had 
added  to  his  experience  the  sight  of  Christians  uniting  military  parade  with 
religious  worship,  and  elevating  the  host  under  the  beating  of  drums.  The 
population  seemed  to  be,  in  a  great  measure,  composed  of  priests,  soldiers, 
and  beggars.  Their  support  and  the  pageantry  of  royalty  appeared  to  lean  most 
grievously  upon  the  agriculturists,  whose  wretchedness  and  hardships  were 
painful  to  behold.  He  saw  their  miserable  huts  clinging  upon  the  mountain 
sides,  with  little  patches  of  land  walled  up,  here  and  there,  among  the  rocks, 
where  it  seemed  impossible  for  even  human  foot  to  rest.  When  farther  in  the 
country,  among  the  plains  and  valleys  of  Piedmont,  although  some  improve- 
ment was  observable,  yet  the  same  general  poverty  and  wrant  pervaded. 

As  an  evidence  of  the  superior  reverence  of  the  Catholics  of  Italy  for  the 
feast  days  of  their  saints,  our  traveler  mentions  that  the  day  preceding  his 
arrival  in  Turin,  being  one  of  these  holy  days,  he  endeavored  to  get  a  draft 

*  Rev.  Dr.  Fisk  was  President  of  the  Wesleyan  University  at  Middletown,  Conn.,  from 
whose  travels  this  article  is  mostly  abridged. 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  553 

cashed  at  a  bank ;  but  was  told  that  they  could  not  do  business  on  that  day. 
"if  he  would  call  to-morrow  (Sunday  !)  they  would  accommodate  him." 

Turin  is  a  pleasant  city  of  some  80,000  inhabitants,  standing  on  the  river 
Po,  in  the  center  of  a  beautiful  plain  shut  in  by  picturesque  mountains.  Fol- 
lowing down  the  valley  of  the  river  a  short  distance,  our  traveler  diverged 
therefrom,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  miles,  passed  through  the  battle-field 
of  Marengo,  then  covered  with  the  early  shoots  of  wheat,  looking  green  and 
fresh  upon  ground  once  red  with  human  gore.  Descending,  a  few  hours 
later,  through  a  gorge  in  the  Apennines,  the  blue  waters  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean at  once  burst  upon  his  delighted  vision ;  but  as  he  reflected  upon  the 
fate  of  the  great  nations — Egypt,  Carthage,  Tyre,  Sidon,  Greece,  and  Rome 
that  rose,  flourished,  and  decayed  upon  its  shores  —  that  these  lands,  once 
the  sunniest  spots  of  all  the  earth,  were  now  enveloped  by  the  dark  pall  of 
despotism,  sunken,  wretched,  and  degraded,  he  was  wrapped  in  a  train  of 
melancholy  emotions. 

The  whole  landscape  was  seen  mellowed  under  the  mild  beams  of  the  moon, 
as  the  carriage  of  our  traveler  entered  Genoa.  Here  was  born,  in  a  house  yet 
standing  on  its  outskirts,  the  great  discoverer,  Christopher  Columbus.  This 
city  is  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheater,  rising  gradually  from  the  sea.  It  has 
been  called  the  M  city  of  palaces."  The  streets,  however,  are  mere  foot-lanes, 
only  three  or  four  being  large  enough  to  admit  carriages.  Sedan-chairs 
usurp  the  place  of  coaches,  and  donkeys,  with  packsaddles,  that  of  drays 
and  wagons. 

During  the  dark  ages  Genoa  was  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Europe,  and 
her  government,  the  republic  of  Genoa,  one  of  the  most  powerful.  Her 
mercantile  and  naval  marine  were  then  pre-eminent.  Indeed,  Venice  and 
Genoa  were  for  a  long  time  the  most  powerful  nations  on  the  sea.  Their 
merchants  carried  on  extensive  and  profitable  commerce  with  the  whole 
world,  but  especially  with  the  East  Indies,  which  poured  its  treasures  into 
the  coffers  of  her  merchants,  and  thus  laid  the  foundation  for  such  lavish  ex- 
penditure in  the  churches  and  palaces  which  still  adorn  these  cities.  The 
richness  and  number  of  palaces  in  Genoa  is  remarkable,  there  being  some 
fifty  of  great  elegance,  generally  of  marble  throughout,  adorned  with  furni- 
ture of  marble  and  mosaic,  magnificent  paintings,  and  walls  resplendent  with 
gold. 

On  leaving  Genoa  our  traveler  passed  sloping  hills  and  sunny  vales,  yellow 
with  the  golden  orange  and  citron,  and  saw  far  up  on  the  mountain  sides  the 
evergreen  olive  clustered  with  its  tempting  fruit.  The  mountains  too  were 
dotted,  here  and  there,  with  scattered  villages,  dwellings,  churches,  and  castles, 
and  the  scenery  was  constantly  varied  by  the  indentations  of  the  sea. 

The  next  day  his  road,  hewn  out  smooth  as  a  floor  from  the  solid  rock,  led 
over  one  of  the  loftiest  passes  in  the  Apennines :  and  when  he  had  reached 
the  summit  it  was  to  behold  all  the  lower  world  shut  out  from  view  by  a  vast 
cloud  which  stretched  to  the  distant  horizon,  resembling  a  smooth  snowy- 
hued  ocean  ;  the  mountain-tops,  bright  in  the  rays  of  the  sun,  lifted  up  their 
heads  from  out  the  vast  expanse  "like  summer  isles  in  a  sea  of  glory." 

Passing  across  a  corner  of  Modena,  the  city  of  Lucca  was  reached  through 


554  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

a  land  beautiful  as  paradise,  but  filled  with  a  population  made  wretched  by 
despotism.  Miserable  beggars  swarmed  around  him,  and  whenever  he  went 
into  the  streets  or  into  the  churches  his  steps  were  dogged  by  soldiers  and 
spies.  Florence,  the  next  city  he  entered,  has  been  styled  "  the  Athens  of 
Italy. "  It  is  in  the  delightful  and  highly-cultivated  vale  of  Arno.  From  an 
elevation  in  its  vicinity  one  sees  the  city  extended  at  his  feet,  with  the  river 
winding  through  its  celebrated  vale.  The  villas,  convents,  and  palaces  scat- 
tered below,  and  the  hills  around,  and  the  Apennines  encircling  the  whole 
with  their  frowning  and  rocky  peaks,  form  a  lively  contrast  with  the  verdure 
of  the  valley.  "  Here  nature  and  art,  summer  and  winter,  the  past  and  the 
present  are  brought  and  blended  together  in  one  harmonious  whole. " 

In  the  galleries  of  this  city,  among  some  of  the  most  celebrated  paintings 
and  statues  of  the  old  masters,  is  the  famous  statue  of  Venus  de  Medici,  the 
beau-ideal  of  female  beauty,  found  in  Adrian's  villa  near  Rome,  and  sup- 
posed to  have  been  chiseled  by  Praxiteles,  the  Greek  artist,  more  than  2000 
years  ago.  Among  the  wonderful  collections  of  the  museum  of  natural  his- 
tory, are  some  extraordinary  anatomical  preparations  in  wax.  Beside  the 
representations  of  all  parts  of  healthy  subjects,  in  every  possible  aspect  of 
dissection,  is  that  of  the  plague,  shown  so  true  to  nature  as  to  excite  most 
horrible  and  painful  sensations.  Here  also  are  represented  corpses  in  the 
various  stages  of  putrefaction,  with  rats,  bugs,  and  other  vermin  rioting  on 
the  unburied  carcasses. 

The  chapel  of  the  Medici  family  is  among  the  many  wonders  of  Florence ; 
three  hundred  workmen  were  employed  for  many  years  in  its  erection  and 
ornament,  and  it  is  yet  unfinished.  Its  walls  are  richly  incrusted  with  every 
kind  of  rare  and  precious  marble  ;  in  fact  it  is  one  mass  of  richly-ornamented 
work.  Thus  from  pride  and  vain-glory  do  princes  impoverish  their  people 
and  squander  the  resources  of  the  land.  The  church  of  the  Holy  Cross 
contains  the  tombs  of  many  men  of  immortal  genius.  Here  the  scholar  gazes 
with  reverence  upon  the  resting-place  of  Michael  Angelo,  of  Galileo,  of 
Dante,  and  other  kindred  spirits. 

Folic  wing  down  the  vale  of  Arno  to  Pisa,  Mr.  Fisk  found  the  whole  coun- 
try like  one  beautiful  garden,  abounding  in  orchards  and  vineyards.  The 
vines  are  trained  on  trees,  and  run  from  one  tree  to  another  in  continued  and 
luxuriant  garlands.  Every  foot  of  ground  between  the  vines  was  cultivated 
with  the  utmost  economy,  and  mainly  by  the  spade,  the  plow  of  Tuscany 
being  an  awkward  tool  seldom  used. 

Pisa  was  formerly  a  republic  and  occupies  a  prominent  place  in  history. 
It  is  now  particularly  known  for  its  celebrated  leaning  tower,  a  graceful 
structure  190  feet  high  and  leaning  fourteen  feet  from  the  perpendicular,  a 
defect  occasioned,  it  is  supposed,  by  the  yielding  nature  of  the  soil.  Pisa,  in 
common  with  most  of  the  ancient  cities  of  Italy,  has  in  its  buildings  relics  of 
those  troublous  times  of  the  dark  ages  when  literally  "  every  man's  house 
was  his  castle" — a  place  of  refuge  against  personal  enemies  and  robbers. 
One  of  their  features  consists  in  windows  barricaded  with  iron  grating,  which 
gives  to  a  stranger  an  idea  that  the  city  is  filled  with  prisons.  Yet  at  the 
present  day  this  is  superfluous,  for  nowhere  is  one  in  less  danger  from  vio 


.      FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  555 

lence  and  robbery.  Our  traveler  says,  "  I  never  traveled  with  my  property 
or  person  so  much  exposed  by  night  and  by  day,  as  since  I  have  been  in  this 
country,  and  everything  I  have  seen  has  convinced  me  of  the  general  honesty 
of  the  people.  In  one  sense  they  are  not  honest !  In  all  matters  of  trade 
they  will  cheat  you  if  they  can.  This  seems  to  be  no  violation  of  their  moral 
code  ;  but  I  wish  every  country  was  as  free  from  theft  and  robbery."  This 
is  the  only  spot  in  Europe  where  camels  are  used  for  beasts  of  burden  ;  the 
climate  is  mild,  and  the  soil  being  sandy  is  well  adapted  to  them. 

While  in  Pisa,  Mr.  Fisk  witnessed  the  Carnival.  "  This  institution  of 
masquerades,  feasting,  dancing,  frolic  and  fun,  is  one  of  the  many  papal  ob- 
servances, that  has  been  transplanted  from  heathenism  into  the  Christian 
Church."  Its  principal  object  seems  to  be  to  give  the  people  a  satiety  of  feast- 
ing and  amusement,  that  they  may  be  the  better  prepared  to  endure  the 
privations  of  Lent,  which  immediately  follows.  Among  the  merry-makings 
is  a  public  masquerade,  which  takes  place  in  the  Italian  cities  on  '  the  corso, 
a  street  used  as  a  public  riding-place,  which  is  thronged  with  a  dense  mass 
of  people  in  carriages  and  on  foot,  attired,  some  with,  and  some  without 
masks,  and  in  costumes  of  all  nations,  as  grotesque  and  comic,  as  the  whim 
of  the  wearer  may  dictate.  Very  commonly  the  sexes  change  dresses  ; 
delicate  ladies  are  seen  attired  as  sailors,  and  stout,  clumsy  men  in  ladies' 
clothes,  with  perhaps  a  huge  cigar  in  their  mouths  ;  there  a  turbaned,  pom- 
pous Turk  will  be  seen,  and  here  again,  will  come  waddling  along  some 
little  fellow  stuffed  out  into  a  figure  as  bi^  as  a  hogshead.  The  balconies 
and  verandahs  of  the  houses  are  rented  to  spectators  who  come  to  enjoy  the 
sport.  The  actors  pelt  each  other  with  •  confetti,'  a  kind  of  colored  sugar- 
plums, which  will  make  one  white  as  a  miller.  The  love-making,  the  fantas- 
tic costumes,  and  the  tricks  continually  played  upon  every  one,  furnish  a 
fund  of  amusement. 

The  three  last  days  are  the  most  exciting  ;  the  whole  city  seems  then  to  be 
on  the  'corso.'  The  diversions  end  with  the  'moccoli,'  in  which  the  maskers 
appear  with  lighted  tapers,  and  endeavor  to  blow  out  the  lights  of  the 
others,  while  they  preserve  their  own.  At  last,  in  the  height  of  the  excite- 
ment, the  church  bell  rin^s,  a  cmii  is  fired,  and  the  hilarity  is  finished  ;  sue- 
ceeded  by  a  solemn  service  in  the  churches,  with  the'  ceremony  of  putting 
ashes  on  the  head,  to  indicate  man's  frailty  and  mortality. 

Leghorn,  the  most  commercial  port  of  Italy,  is  but  ten  miles  from  Pisa. 
Our  traveler  was  struck  with  the  contrast  between  this  and  most  other 
Italian  towns.  Generally,  in  Italy,  the  cities  appear  to  be  filled  with  an  idle 
population,  who  saunter  about  at  a  snail's  pace,  as  if  life  were  a  burden,  and 
one  begins  to  be  of  opinion  that  the  people  are  incapable  of  spirited  exertion 
and  enterprise.  In  Leghorn  the  scene  is  changed,  people  move  about  with  a 
bustling  air,  and  the  prompt,  active  step  of  business  as  in  our  own  cities  ; 
and  this  arises  from  there  being  some  inducement  to  exertion.  Man,  where- 
ever  he  may  be,  is  an  elastic  being  ;  just  remove  the  weight  that  presses  him 
to  the  earth,  give  him  the  proper  stimulus  to  exertion,  and  he  springs  into 
active  life  with  an  impulse  that  soon  leaves  behind  the  effects  of  bad  habits 
and  long  degradation. 


-,56  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

From  Leghorn,  our  traveler  proceeded  in  a  steamer  to  Civita  Vecchia,  the 
seaport  of  Rome  ;  from  thence  by  land  to  Rome,  and  through  it  continued 
toward  Naples,  intending  to  make  a  longer  visit  to  the  "  eternal  city,"  latei 
in  the  season.  The  route  between  the  two  cities,  is  to  some  extent  over  the 
old  Appian  Way,  which  led  through  the  famous  Pontine  marshes ;  these  are 
twenty- four  miles  long,  and  stretch  back  from  the  sea  from  six  to  twelve  miles 
Anciently  these  marshes  were  always  under  water,  and  are  partially  so  now 
at  some  seasons.  From  thousands  of  years  back  emperors,  princes,  and 
popes,  have  successively  made  efforts  to  drain  this  pestilential  pool,  so  that 
now  a  large  part  of  it  is  cultivated.  Still,  the  sallow  countenances  of  the 
few  miserable  wretches  who  tend  their  flocks  amid  these  miasmatic  fens 
show  their  deadly  effects. 

The  first  towns  he  passed  through  after  entering  the  Neapolitan  states,  ap- 
peared to  be  the  most  filthy,  wretched,  and  poverty-stricken,  he  had  ever 
seen.  At  one  of  them,  while  his  baggage  was  undergoing  the  usual  custom- 
house examinations,  he  was  surrounded  by  hundreds  of  most  miserable 
objects  of  want,  and  woe,  who  by  scores  stretched  out  their  hands,  and  in 
piteous  accents  implored  charity. 

Just  before  entering  Mora,  he. passed  a  splendid  monument,  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Cicero,  on  the  very  spot  where  he  was  overtaken  and  beheaded  ; 
it  is  now  crumbling  to  decay  by  the  tooth  of  time,  while  the  intellectual  monu- 
ments erected  by  himself,  will  endure  for  succeeding  ages  in  all  their  original 
grandeur  and  exquisite  proportions.  Nearing  Naples,  which  is  1 18  miles  distant 
from  Rome,  he  found  the  road  level  as  a  floor,  and  leading  through  a  rich 
country,  where  "  the  vineyards  seemed  to  have  added  magnificence  to 
beauty."  Immense  trees  were  growing  in  regular  ranges  covered  with 
hanging  vines,  some  of  which  had  leaped  from  tree  to  tree,  and  hung  down  in 
fantastic  garlands  and  graceful  festoons. 

Naples  is  the  most  attractive  of  all  Italian  cities ;  the  people  have  a  pro- 
verb, "  see  Naples  and  then  die."  It  presents  a  remarkably  gay  and  lively 
aspect,  and  its  bay,  some  thirty  miles  across,  is  unsurpassed  in  the  world. 
The  town  rises  from  it  like  an  amphitheater,  and  from  the  summit  in  the  rear, 
the  scene  presented  is  like  enchantment. 

Naples  is  the  largest  city  in  Italy,  containing  about  400,000  inhabitants, 
30,000  of  whom  are  lazzaroni;  many  of  this  class  have  no  home,  but  sleep 
in  the  open  air,  anywhere  in  the  streets;  they  live  upon  next  to  nothing, 
the  mildness  of  their  climate  and  their  habits,  allowing  them  to  subsist  with- 
out fire  and  with  scarcely  any  clothing.  Whenever  they  get  a  chance,  they 
officiate  as  porters,  carrying  with  them  for  that  purpose,,  a  huge  basket  in 
which  they  lodge  at  night.  They  sing  and  sport,  play  at  cards,  stretch 
themselves  at  full  length  on  the  pavement  in  the  sun,  gather  and  sell  old 
tobacco  quids,  and  stumps  of  smoked  cigars,  beg,  when  opportunity  offers, 
and  perform  all  offices  of  nature  in  the  open  street,  with  the  shamelessness 
of  so  many  dogs.  But  their  greatest  luxury  seems  to  be  in  hunting  heads: 
one  will  often  see  them  seated  in  rows  on  the  street  side,  one  behind  the  other, 
hunting  the  head  of  his  companion  who  is  seated  before  him,  each  in  turn  busy. 
Long  degradation  has  made  them  apparently  contented  with  their  situation, 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  557 

and  with   plenty  of   maccaroni  and  vegetables   to  eat>  they  seem  to  be  a 
merry  race. 

Beside  beggars,  Naples  has  in,  and  about  it,  some  thirty  or  forty  thou- 
sand soldiers,  mostly  Swiss  and  Austrian  mercenaries  ;  also  a  numerous  body 
of  ecclesiastics,  a  well-fed,  fat,  portly  class,  who  appear  to  have  uncommonly 
easy  times ;  for  they  are  without  the  care  of  families,  most  of  them  never 
preach,  but  have  only  pastoral  duties,  masses,  and  confessions  to  attend  to, 
which  being  divided  among  a  large  number  are  very  trifling.  Aside  from 
these  are  the  monks,  leeches  devouring  the  fatness  of  the  land.  With  her 
restricted  commerce  Naples  would  be  sunk  into  still  lower  depths'  of  poverty 
and  degradation,  bat  for  the  amazing  fertility  of  the  country. 

In  the  chapel  of  St.  Severus  are  some  wonderful  pieces  of  statuary.  The 
female  figure,  representing  Modesty,  is  a  master-piece  :  she  is  covered  with  a 
transparent  vail,  wrought  in  white  marble,  and  so  delicate  is  it,  that  one  can 
not  only  trace  through  it,  the  general  outline  of  the  figure  which  it  enfolds, 
but  all  its  features  in  their  exquisite  beauty  of  expression.  Another  remark- 
able figure,  a  sublime  triumph  of  genius,  is  thkt  of  Christ  extended  on  the 
cross.  "  The  form  and  very  muscles  are  seen  through  the  vail,  and  the 
whole  looks  as  if  moistened  by  the  clammy  sweat  of  death,  while  the  sublime 
resignation  of  our  Savior's  last  hours  seems  lingering  still  upon  the  lifeless 
countenance." 

The  burial-place  for  the  poor  of  Naples  consists  of  an  immense  square, 
walled  in,  and  containing  365  pits,  one  for  each  day  in  the  year.  Each  of 
these  are  12  feet  square,  walled  around,  and  covered  over  without  any  open- 
ing, except  a  sort  of  small  trap-door  on  the  surface.  Each  day  in  turn  a  pit  is 
opened,  and  the  corpses,  entirely  naked,  are  thrown  in  :  quicklime  is  cast  over 
these,  and  the  trap-door  sealed  up  ;  then  just  one  year  elapses  for  the  decom- 
position of  the  bodies  ere  the  vault  is  used  again.  Dr.  Fisk  says,  he  looked 
into  the  pit  that  was  open  on  the  day  of  his  visit,  and  saw  some  half  a  dozen 
infants,  perfectly  naked,  which  had  just  been  cast  in  ;  they  were  fast  sinking 
down  into  the  putrefied  mass  of  by-gone  years.  In  this  manner  are  the 
poor  of  the  Italian  cities  generally  buried,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  rats 
and  other  vermin  rioting  upon  the  loathsome  mass. 

The  greatest  object  of  curiosity  in  Naples  is  the  Museum,  containing  the 
relics  discovered  by  the  excavations  made  in  the  buried  cities  of  Herculaneum 
and  Pompeii.  One  sees  here,  historical  records,  telling  in  stronger  terms 
than  language,  of  what  those  cities  were,  at  the  moment  of  their  destruction. 
We  do  not  here  allude  to  the  specimens  of  fine  arts,  the  ancient  preserved 
paintings,  the  beautiful  mosaics,  and  the  splendid  statuary,  for  these  are  pro- 
bably equaled  by  relics  of  a  similar  character  elsewhere  discovered.  But  to 
visit  a  place  filled  with  all  the  farming  tools,  kitchen  utensils,  articles  of  the 
toilet,  merchandise  of  the  stores,  public  and  private  furniture,  the  sacred 
vessels  and  implements  of  the  temples;  in  fine,  everything  connected  "with 
war  or  peace,  public  or  private  life,  business  or  pleasure,  art  or  literature, 
the  licentiousness  or  the  religion  of  a  refined,  licentious,  luxurious,  and  super- 
stitious people,  existing  two  thousand  years  ago,  is  to  see  ono  of  the  most  sur- 
prising exhibitions  the  world  has  ever  beheld. 


55 S  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY 

"  In  these  relics  of  a  former  age  we  are  surprised  to  sp«,  in  a  great  many 
instances,  the  very  implements  over  again  with  which  we  are  conversant  at 
the  present  day  ;  the  same  pans,  the  pots  and  kettles,  the  gridirons,  the  ladles; 
the  steelyards,  the  stoves,  stamps  for  printing  letters  on  bread,  nay,  some  of 
the  very  bread  itself  stamped;  ink-stands,  with  remains  of  ink  in  them,  pens  or 
styli,  opera  tickets,  door-trimmings,  bits  for  bridles,-  musical  instruments,  dice, 
spinning-wheels,  distaffs,  locks  and  keys,  surgical  instruments,  almost  equal 
to  the  modern,  moulds  for  pastry,  skimmers,  grates,  stocks  for  the  feet  of  pri 
soners,  andirons,  mirrors,  rouge  and  other  paints  for  the  face — for  ladies,  it 
seems,  improved  upon  nature  in  those  days  as  well  as  now  ;  combs,  curling- 
tongs,  and  other  requisites  for  the  toilette.  In  short,  you  seem  here  to  be 
translated  back  two  thousand  years,  and  led  into  all  the  familiar  scenes  of 
domestic  life.  And  worse  than  this,  there  is  a  reserve  room,  which  none  are 
allowed  to  enter  without  a  special  permit  from  the  director.  As  the  contents 
of  this  room  are  not  decent  to  be  publicly  exposed,  even  in  an  Italian  museum, 
of  course  they  are  not  proper  to  be  described,  even  if  one  could  make  up  his 
mind  to  describe  them.  They  are  mentioned  here  as  a  proof  of  the  extreme 
licentiousness  of  those  cities. 

The  great  evidence  of  universal,  or,  at  least,  general  corruption  in  Pom- 
peii, is  the  fact  that  some  of  these  impure  indications  were  taken  from  the 
houses  of  the  first  citizens,  and  from  the  toilettes  of  the  ladies  of  those  families. 
Diomedes,  whose  suburban  villa  was  just  beyond  the  gates  of  Pompeii,  ap- 
pears to  have  been  a  man  of  consular  dignity  ;  and  yet  his  ladies,  his  daugh- 
ter, as  is  supposed,  had  such  forms  of  jewelry  and  toys  of  her  toilet  as  may 
not  be  described,  and  as  no  virtuous  woman  could  expose  on  her  person.  No 
wonder  these  cities  were  overwhelmed  by  the  visitation  of  Divine  Pro- 
vidence." 


CHAPTER  II. 

Envibons  of  Naples— Pliny's  description  of  the  Eruption  of  Vesuvius,  A.  D.  79— Pompeii- 
Villa  of  Diomedes— Licentiousness  of  the  Ancient  Romans— Herculaneum— Excursion  to 
Vesuvius — Rome — Passion  Week — Imposing  Ceremonies— Illumination  of  St.  Peter's— 
Antiquities —Falls  of  Terni— Battle  Ground  of  Hannibal  and  Flaminius— Bologna— 
Tasso— Tomb  of  Petrarch— Padua— Venice  —Halls  of  the  Secret  Tribunals— Bridge  of 
Sighs —Dungeons— Mechanical  Procession — Legacy  to  the  Pigeons —Religious  Character 
of  the  People  -Milan — Entrance  into  Switzerland. 

The  environs  of  Naples  are  full  of  interesting  objects.  The  ruins  of  Paes- 
tum  are  fifty-four  miles  south-easterly  from  it.  After  having  survived  the 
Roman  Empire,  Psestum  was  destroyed  by  the  Saracens  about  the  tenth  cen- 
tury, and  it  remained  unknown  to  the  world  from  that  time  until  1755,  when 
it  was  accidentally  discovered  by  an  artist  on  a  sketching  excursion.  The 
first  part  of  the  road  to  it  from  Naples  leads  by  the  ruins  of  Pompeii,  through 
a  beautiful,  cultivated  country  of  vineyards  ;  the  latter  part  is  among  pestife- 
rous swamps,  where  the  desolating  malaria  holds  its  court :  the  visitor  is 
therefore  not  only  obliged  to  carry  his  own  food,  but  his  water,  for  here  he 
may  not  even  drink — the  water  changing  everything  into  stone. 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  559 

Comparatively  speaking,  there  are  no  ruins  here  ;  all  smaller  works  of  art 
have  been  merged  into  the  common  mass  of  earth  ;  but  the  walls  of  the  city, 
fifty  feet  high,  exist  in  detached  spots,  and  three  temples,  with  their  gates, 
lift  their  heads  against  the  sky,  and  as  viewed  in  the  indistinctness  of  night, 
are  solemnly  grand  and  impressive.  Formerly,  the  deserted  situation  of  the 
place,  made  it  much  frequented  by  brigands,  who  laid  in  wait  for  small  par- 
ties to  the  ruins. 

Pompeii,  which  stands  a  mile  from  the  sea,  was  buried  under  a  shower  of 
cinders,  ashes,  and  stones,  emitted  continuously  from  Vesuvius,  for  four  days 
and  nights,  in  the  year  79,  and  by  the  same  eruption  which  destroyed  Hercu- 
laneum.  So  extensive  and  thick  was  the  cloud  of  smoke  and  ashes  that  filled 
the  atmosphere,  by  this  eruption,  that  it  was  visible  in  Africa,  and  Palestine, 
and  at  Rome,  120  miles  distant,  turned  the  light  of  day  into  the  darkness  of 
night,  to  the  consternation  of  the  inhabitants.  The  eruption,  it  is  supposed, 
was  not  so  violent  as  to  prevent  the  escape  of  most  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Pompeii,  as  but  very  few  skeletons  were  found.  Those  remaining  were  pro- 
bably slaves,  or  those  who  fell,  in  the  total  darkness  which  prevailed  even  at 
noon,  by  which  they  became  bewildered,  and  falling  over  fragments  of  ruin, 
were  rendered  insensible. 

"As  a  favorite  place  of  occasional  residence  to  families  of  distinction  from 
Rome,  Pompeii,  at  the  time,  contained,  or  had  in  its  neighborhood,  several 
Romans  whose  names  are  familiar  to  the  readers  of  history;  among  others, 
Cesius  Bassus,  a  poet,  and  Agrippa,  son  of  Claudius  Felix,  the  well-known 
governor  of  Judea,  both  of  whom  became  victims  of  the  eruption.  Pliny 
the  elder,  it  appears,  was  residing  at  Misenum,  on  the  northern  promontory 
of  the  Gulf  of  Naples,  along  with  his  nephew,  known  to  us  as  Pliny  the 
younger.  Fortunately,  two  letters  written  by  the  nephew  to  his  friend  Taci- 
tus, describing  the  catastrophe  which  killed  his  uncle  and  overwhelmed  Pom- 
peii and  other  cities,  have  been  preserved  in  an  epistolary  collection  of  the 
author.     The  following  is  the  first  and  most  valuable  of  these  celebrated  letters: 

1  Your  request  that  I  would  send  you  an  account  of  my  uncle's  death,  in 
order  to  transmit  a  more  exact  relation  of  it  to  posterity,  deserves  my  ac- 
knowledgments ;  for  if  this  accident  shall  be  celebrated  by  your  pen,  the 
glory  of  it,  I  am  well  assured,  will  be  rendered  forever  illustrious  ;  and,  not- 
withstanding he  perished  by  a  misfortune,  which,  as  it  involved  at  the  same 
time  a  most  beautiful  country  in  ruins,  and  destroyed  so  many  populous  cities, 
seems  to  promise  him  an  everlasting  remembrance  ;  notwithstanding  he  has 
himself  composed  many  and  lasting  works;  yet  I  am  persuaded  the  mention- 
ing of  him  in  your  immortal  writings  will  greatly  contribute  to  eternize  his 
name.  Happy  I  esteem  those  to  be  whom  Providence  has  distinguished  with 
the  abilities  either  of  doing  such  actions  as  are  worthy  of  being  related,  or 
of  relating  them  in  a  manner  worthy  of  being  read  ;  but  doubly  happy  are 
they  who  are  blest  with  both  these  uncommon  talents  ;  in  the  number  of 
which  my  uncle,  as  his  own  writings  and  your  history  will  evidently  prove, 
may  justly  be  ranked.  It  is  with  extreme  willingness,  therefore,  that  I  exe- 
cute your  commands  ;  and  should,  indeed,  have  claimed  the  task,  if  you  had 
not  enjoined  it 


560  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

My  uncle  was,  at  the  time,  with  the  fleet  under  his  command  at  Misenum 
On  the  23d  of  August,  about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  my  mother  de 
sired  him  to  observe  a  cloud  which  appeared  of  a  very  unusual  size  and 
shape.  He  had  just  returned  from  taking  the  benefit  of  the  sun,*  and  aftei 
bathing  himself  in  cold  water,  and  taking  a  slight  repast,  had  retired  to  his 
study:  he  immediately  arose  and  went  out  upon  an  eminence  from  which  he 
might  more  distinctly  view  this  very  uncommon  appearance.  It  was  not  at 
that  distance  discernible  from  what  mountain  this  cloud  issued,  but  it  was 
found  afterward  to  ascend  from  Mount  Vesuvius.  I  cannot  give  you  a  more 
exact  description  of  its  figure,  than  by  resembling  it  to  that  of  a  pine  tree, 
for  it  shot  up  a  great  height  in  the  form  of  a  trunk,  which  extended  itself  at 
the  top  into  a  sort  of  branches  ;  occasioned,  I  imagine,  either  by  a  sudden 
gust  of  air  that  impelled  it,  the  force  of  which  decreased  as  it  advanced  up- 
ward; or  the  cloud  itself  being  pressed  back  again  by  its  own  weight,  ex- 
panded in  this  manner.  It  appeared  sometimes  bright,  and  sometimes  dark 
and  spotted,  as  it  was  either  more  or  less  impregnated  with  earth  and  cin- 
ders. This  extraordinary  phenomenon  excited  my  uncle's  philosophical  curi- 
osity to  take  a  nearer  view  of  it.  He  ordered  a  light  vessel  to  be  got  ready, 
and  gave  me  the  liberty,  if  I  thought  proper,  to  attend  him.  I  rather  chose 
to  continue  my  studies  ;  for,  as  it  happened,  he  had  given  me  an  employment 
of  that  kind.  As  he  was  coming  out  of  the  house  he  received  a  note  from 
Rectina,  the  wife  of  Bassus,  who  was  in  the  utmost  alarm  at  the  imminent 
danger  which  threatened  her  ;  for  her  villa  being  situated  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Vesuvius,  there  was  no  way  to  escape  but  by  sea.  She  earnestly  entreated 
him,  therefore,  to  come  to  her  assistance.  He  accordingly  changed  his  first 
design,  and  what  he  began  with  a  philosophical,  he  pursued  with  a  heroical 
turn  of  mind.  He  ordered  the  galleys  to  put  to  sea,  and  went  himself  on 
board,  with  an  intention  of  assisting  not  only  Rectina,  but  several  others  ;  for 
the  villas  stand  extremely  thick  upon  the  beautiful  coast.  When  hastening 
to  the  place  from  which  others  fled  with  the  utmost  terror,  he  steered  his  di- 
rect course  to  the  point  of  danger,  and  with  so  much  calmness  and  presence 
of  mind,  as  to  be  able  to  make  and  dictate  his  observations  upon  the  motion 
and  figure  of  that  dreadful  scene.  He  was  now  so  nigh  the  mountain  that 
the  cinders,  which  grew  thicker  and  hotter  the  nearer  he  approached,  fell  into 
the  ships,  together  with  pumicestones,  and  black  pieces  of  burning  rock  ;  they 
were  likewise  in  danger  not  only  of  being  aground  by  the  sudden  retreat  of 
the  sea,  but  also  from  the  vast  fragments  which  rolled  down  from  the  moun- 
tain, and  obstructed  all  the  shore.  Here  he  stopped  to  consider  whether  he 
should  return  back  again,  to  which  the  pilot  advising  him — 'Fortune  favors 
the  brave,'  said  he  ;  ■  carry  me  to  Pomponianus.' 

Pomponianus  was  then  at  Stabise,  separated  by  a  guff  which  the  sea,  after 
several  insensible  windings,  forms  upon  that  shore.  He  had  already  sent  his 
baggage  on  board  ;  for  though  he  was  not  at  that  time  in  actual  danger,  yet 

*  The  Romans  used  to  lie  or  walk  naked  in  the  sun,  after  anointing  their  bodies  with 
oil,  which  was  esteemed  as  greatly  contributing  to  health,  and  therefore  daily  practiced 
by  them. 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  561 

Deing  within  the  view  of  it,  and  indeed  extremely  near  if  it  should  in  the 
least  increase,  he  was  determined  to  put  to  sea  as  soon  as  the  wind  should 
change.  It  was  favorable,  however,  for  carrying  my  uncle  to  Pomponianus, 
whom  he  found  in  the  greatest  consternation.  He  embraced  him  with  ten- 
derness, encouraging  and  exhorting  him  to  keep  up  his  spirits  ;  and  the  more 
to  dissipate  his  fears,  he  ordered,  with  an  air  of  unconcern,  the  baths  to  be 
got  ready;  when,  after  having  bathed,  he  sat  down  to  supper  with  great 
cheerfulness,  or  at  least  (what  is  equally  heroic)  with  all  the  appearance  of 
it.  In  the  meanwhile,  the  eruption  from  Mount  Vesuvius  flamed  out  in  se- 
veral places  with  much  violence,  which  the  darkness  of  the  night  contributed 
to  render  still  more  visible  and  dreadful.  But  my  uncle,  in  order  to  soothe 
the  apprehensions  of  his  friend,  assured  him  it  was  only  the  burning  of  the 
villages,  which  the  country  people  had  abandoned  to  the  flames.  After  this 
he  retired  to  rest,  and  it  is  most  certain  he  was  so  little  discomposed  as  to  fall 
into  a  deep  sleep  ;  for,  being  pretty  fat,  and  breathing  hard,  those  who  at- 
tended without,  actually  heard  him  snore.  The  court  which  led  to  his  apart- 
ment being  now  almost  filled  with  stones  and  ashes,  if  he  had  continued  there 
any  time  longer,  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  him  to  have  made  his  way 
out;  it  was  thought  proper,  therefore,  to  awaken  him.  He  got  up,  and  went 
to  Pomponianus  and  the  rest  of  his  company,  who  were  not  unconcerned 
enough  to  think  of  going  to  bed.  They  consulted  together  whether  it  would 
be  most  prudent  to  trust  to  the  houses,  which  now  shook  from  side  to  side 
with  frequent  and  violent  concussions,  or  fly  to  the  open  fields,  where  the  cal- 
cined stones  and  cinders,  though  light  indeed,  yet  fell  in  large  showers,  and 
threatened  destruction.  In  this  distress  they  resolved  for  the  fields,  as  the 
less  dangerous  situation  of  the  two ;  a  resolution  which,  while  the  rest  of  the 
company  were  hurried  into  it  by  their  fears,  my  uncle  embraced  upon  cool 
and  deliberate  consideration. 

They  went  out  then,  having  pillows  tied  upon  their  heads  with  napkins, 
and  this  was  their  whole  defense  against  the  storm  of  stones  that  fell  round 
them.  Though  it  was  now  day  everywhere  else,  with  them  it  was  darker 
than  the  most  obscure  night,  excepting  only  what  light  proceeded  from  the 
fire  and  flames.  They  thought  proper  to  go  down  farther  upon  the  shore,  to 
observe  if  they  might  safely  put  out  to  sea ;  but  they  found  the  waves  still 
run  extremely  high  and  boisterous.  There  my  uncle  having  drunk  a  draught  or 
two  of  cold  water,  threw  himself  down  upon  a  cloth  which  was  spread  for 
him,  when  immediately  the  flames,  and  a  strong  smell  of  sulphur,  which  was 
the  forerunner  of  them,  dispersed  the  rest  of  the  company,  and  obliged  him 
to  arise.  He  raised  himself  up  with  the  assistance  of  two  of  his  servants, 
and  instantly  fell  down  dead ;  suffocated,  as  I  conjecture,  by  some  gross  and 
noxious  vapor,  having  always  had  weak  lungs,  and  frequently  subjected  to  a 
difficulty  of  breathing.  As  soon  as  it  was  light  again,  which  was  not  till  the 
third  day  after  this  melancholy  accident,  his  body  was  found  entire,  and  with- 
out any  marks  of  violence  upon  it,  exactly  in  the  same  posture  that  he  fell, 
and  looking  more  like  a  man  asleep  than  dead." 

"  During  these  occurrences  on  the  Pompeian  side  of  the  bay,  we  learn 
from  the  second  letter  that  the  younger  Pliny  and  his  mother  remained  al 
36 


562  FISK'S  TKAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

Misenum,  which  was  also  enveloped  in  thick  darkness,  and  dreadfully  cod* 
vulsed  by  the  throes  of  the  mountain.  On  the  first  morning  after  the  erup- 
tion, the  light  was  exceedingly  faint  and  languid,  and  the  buildings  continued 
to  totter  ;  so  that  the  mother  and  son  resolved  to  quit  the  town — the  people 
following  them  in  the  utmost  consternation.  Having  got  to  a  convenient 
distance  from  the  houses,  they  stood  still  in  the  midst  of  a  most  dangerous 
and  dreadful  scene.  Their  chariots  pitched  backward  and  forward,  though 
drawn  out  on  level  ground,  and  blocked  up  with  large  stones  ;  the  sea  seemed 
to  roll  back  upon  itself,  and  to  be  driven  upon  its  banks  by  the  convulsive 
motion  of  the  earth  ;  and  many  sea  animals  were  left  upon  the  shore,  from 
which  the  water  had  receded.  Pliny's  mother  conjured  him  to  make  his  es- 
cape, which,  being  young  (he  was  then  eighteen  years  of  age),  he  might 
easily  do  ;  but  he  refused  to  leave  her,  and  led  her  on  from  the  scene  of 
danger.  The  ashes  began  to  fall  upon  them,  though  in  no  great  quantity; 
but  a  thick  sulphureous  smoke  like  a  torrent  came  rolling  after  them.  Pliny 
proposed,  while  they  had  any  light,  to  turn  from  the  highway,  lest  his  aged 
parent  should  be  pressed  to  death  in  the  dark,  by  the  crowd  which  followed  ; 
and  they  had  scarcely  stepped  aside  when  utter  darkness  overspread  them. 
Nothing  was  then  to  be  heard,  says  he,  but  the  shrieks  of  women,  the  screams 
of  children,  and  the  cries  of  men :  some  calling  for  their  husbands,  and  only 
distinguishing  each  other  by  their  voices  ;  one  lamenting  his  own  fate, 
another  that  of  his  family;  some  wishing  to  die  from  the  very  fear  of  dying  ; 
some  lifting  up  their  hands  to  the  gods  ;  but  the  greater  number  imagining 
that  the  last  day  was  come,  which  was  to  destroy  both  the  gods  and  the  world 
together.  At  length  a  glimmering  light  appeared,  which,  however,  was  not 
the  return  of  day,  but  only  the  forerunner  of  an  approaching  burst  of  flames. 
The  mass  of  hot  cinders  and  stones  luckily  fell  at  a  distance  from  them  ;  then 
again  they  were  enveloped  in  thick  darkness,  and  a  heavy  shower  of  ashes 
rained  upon  them,  which  they  were  obliged  every  now  and  then  to  shake  off, 
to  prevent  being  crushed  and  bruised  in  the  heap.  At  length  this  dreadful 
darkness  was  dissipated  by  degrees,  like  a  cloud  of  smoke  ;  the  real  day  re- 
turned, and  the  sun  appeared,  though  very  faintly,  and  as  when  an  eclipse  is 
coming  on  ;  and  every  object  seemed  changed,  being  covered  over  with  white 
ashes,  as  with  a  deep  snow." 

The  accumulated  weight  crushed  in  the  flat  roofs  of  the  buildings,  and 
thus  so  entirely  buried  the  city  that  its  precise  position  remained  unknown 
until  about  one  hundred  years  since,  when  it  was  accidentally  found  by  some 
peasants  ;  almost  one  third,  and  that  the  most  public  part  of  the  city,  has 
been  excavated,  and  generally  too  on  the  line  of  the  streets,  the  chief  of 
which  was  the  Appian  Way.  The  streets  are  all  paved  with  lava,  and  show 
to  this  day  the  ruts  made  by  the  carriage  wheels  2000  years  ago.  The  ruins 
of  the  temples,  theaters,  and  basilica  or  Judgment  Hall,  are  splendid.  In 
the  interior  of  the  last  named,  the  judgment  seat  is  at  one  end,  the  rostrum 
or  speaker's  desk,  at  the  side,  and  the  dungeons  beneath,  and  all  in  perfect 
order.  In  the  temple  of  Isis  were  discovered  skeletons  of  several  priests, 
who  it  seems  were  dining  when  the  suffocating  tempest  came  on.  Here  also, 
is  shown  the  secret  staircase  and  passage,  and  the  place  to  which  the  priests 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  553 

ascended  to  deliver  the  oracles,  the  people,  who  victims  to  the  fraud,  thought 
them  to  be  from  the  gods. 

One  street  is  devoted  to  shops,  the  business  of  each  being  indicated  by  the 
relics  found  in  them.  The  finest  houses  were  two  or  three  stories,  but  ordi- 
narily only  of  one.  The  dwellings  were  low  between  joists,  without  windows, 
chimneys  or  fireplaces,  the  chambers  small,  and  wholly  destitute  of 
comfort,  the  ancient  Romans  seeking  their  pleasure  mainly  at  the  Forum,  and 
places  of  public  resort.  The  best  dwellings  stood  facing  square  courts,  with 
pavements  of  small  pebbles  in  mosaic  surrounded  with  alcoves,  dining,  draw- 
ing-rooms, and  chambers ;  each  usually  had  a  fountain  and  a  cistern. 
Among  the  dwellings,  that  of  Sallust  is  unusually  showy.  The  ancient 
Romans  used  instead  of  ardent  spirits,  medicated  liquors  of  corrosive  quali- 
ties, and  on  the  marble  counter  of  a  drinking-house  the  circular  marks  of 
the  tumblers  or  cups  are  yet  visible. 

On  each  side  of  the  Appian  Way,  just  beyond  Pompeii,  are  double  rows 
of  tombs  with  tablets,  and  in  which  were  urns  filled  with  the  ashes  and  bones 
of  the  deceased.  Near  the  city  gate  is  the  elegant  three  storied  villa  of 
Diomedes,  with  beautiful  furniture.  The  family  seem  to  have  fled  for  pro- 
tection to  the  wine  cellar,  there  being  found  seventeen  skeletons,  one  of  them 
from  her  rich  ornaments,  it  is  thought,  was  Mrs.  Diomedes.  "  Near  the 
back  door  were  found  two  skeletons,  one  with  keys,  and  wearing  a  gold  ring, 
supposed  to  be  Diomedes  himself ;  and  near  the  other  skeleton  were  silver 
vases,  and  a  wrapper  containing  eighty  pieces  of  silver  money,  ten  of  gold 
and  some  of  bronze  ;  probably  this  was  the  servant,  bearing  away  the 
treasures  after  his  master,  both  of  whom,  however,  were  arrested  and  buried 
alive." 

The  excavations  are  now  being  very  slowly  made,  and  many  new  disclo- 
sures doubtless  remain  to  be  revealed.  Our  traveler,  after  visiting  Psestum 
and  Pompeii,  started  back  to  Naples,  passing  througli  Torre  del  Grceco,  a  town 
of  18,000  inhabitants,  destroyed  in  1798,  by  an  eruption  of  Vesuvius.  He 
stopped  to  visit  Herculaneum,  which,  unlike  Pompeii,  was  buried  by  molten 
lava  to  the  depth  of  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  feet.  The  lava  has  become 
so  hard  by  time,  as  to  render  the  excavation  both  costly  and  difficult,  so  that 
comparatively  little  has  as  yet  been  accomplished.  Herculaneum  was  dis- 
covered 150  years  ago  by  the  sinking  of  a  well. 

From  a  most  remote  period  this  has  been  a  volcanic  region,  as  is  shown 
not  only  by  the  pavements  of  the  streets,  but  by  the  houses  and  walls  of 
these  buried  cities,  which  were  constructed  of  lava ;  and  what  number  of 
cities  have  been  erected  upon  the  tops  of  cities,  far  back  in  distant  ages,  will 
never  be  revealed,  until  the  final  trump  shall  summon  the  assembled  millions 
to  unfold  all  the  secrets  of  earth's  history  from  the  creation  to  the  death  of 
Time. 

Our  traveler  made  a  second  excursion  from  Naples  along  the  western 
shore  of  the  bay,  which  was  the  celebrated  region  of  the  ancients,  the  land 
of  enchantment,  fable,  and  song,  luxury  and  licentiousness,  and  combining 
all  that  is  most  beautiful  and  terrible  in  nature.  These  enchanting  shores 
spread  along  for  many  miles  in  charming  variety  of  outline,  being  broken  up 


564  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

into  bays,  islands,  caverns  and  mountain-heights.  The  first  object  is  the  tomb 
of  Virgil,  in  an  elevated,  secluded  dell,  near  the  entrance  to  the  famous  grotto 
of  Posilipo,  a  gloomy  artificial  excavation  which  penetrates  through  a  moun- 
tain for  near  half  a  mile,  and  was  used  as  a  thoroughfare  between  Naples 
and  Puzzuoli,  the  ancient  Puteoli.  This  last  named  was  a  noted  Roman 
city,  with  an  excellent  harbor,  and  the  spot  where  St.  Paul  first  landed  in 
Italy.  It  was  in  ancient  days  celebrated  for  its  mineral  waters,  and  was 
adorned  by  the  elegant  villas  of  the  Roman  aristocracy.  Here  procuring  a 
donkey  Mr.  Fisk  proceded  to  Solfatara,  a  naked  plain,  once  the  crater  of  an 
extinct  volcano,  anciently  known  as  Forum  Vulcani  or  Vulcan's  shop.  A 
rampart  of  shattered  hills  environ  it ;  beneath  ever  burn  subterranean  fires, 
with  a  sound  audible  to  visitors,  its  crevices  emit  sulphureous  exhalations, 
while  in  the  darkness  of  night,  pale  blue  flames  issuing  from  the  ground, 
shed  a  gloomy  illumination  over  all. 

Beyond  he  successively  passed  the  villa  of  Cicero,  called  by  him  Acade- 
mico,  of  which  only  the  wine-cellar  remains,  and  the  Lake  d'Agnano,  some 
three  miles  in  circumference,  situated  among  volcanic  hills  :  at  the  top  thn 
water  is  fresh — at  the  bottom  salt.  On  its  shores  is  the  Grotto  del  Cano,  or 
Grotto  of  the  Dog,  so  called  ;  because  if  a  dog  enters  he  falls  into  convulsions, 
and  soon  dies.  This  arises  from  the  fact,  that  sulphuric  acid  gas,  which  is 
emitted  from  the  water,  being  heavier  than  air,  rises  but  only  to  about  the 
height  of  a  dog,  while  a  man  can  enter  with  impunity;  from  his  superior  ele- 
vation, being  not  at  all  endangered. 

Still  beyond,  leaving  on  the  right  the  New  Mountain,  420  feet  high  and  a 
mile  and  a  half  in  diameter,  which,  in  1538,  rose  in  a  day  and  a  half  by  a 
volcanic  eruption,  Mr.  Fisk  came  to  Lake  Avernus,  the  Tartarus,  or  hell  of 
Virgil  :  over  this,  as  stated  in  the  ^Eneid,  birds  could  not  fly,  nor  in  it  fish 
live.  Now  things  are  changed,  for  here  no  longer  do  the  deadly  vapors  find 
vent.  The  ruins  of  a  temple  to  Pluto  are  here  likewise;  beyond  it,  is  the 
passage  to  old  Pluto's  realms,  down  which  ^Eneas  descended  on  his  visit  to 
father  Anchises  in  the  shades  below,  taking  the  river  Styx  by  the  way, 
with  Charon  for  a  ferryman.  Now,  modern  Charons,  instead  of  using  a  boat, 
carry  curiosity  hunters,  "  papoose-back,"  over  the  dark,  gloomy  passage. 
Having  reached  the  other  side,  the  visitor  is  shown  the  bed-chambers  and 
bath  of  the  Sibyls.     The  Decensus  Averni,  or  road  to  hell,  is  closed  up. 

There  were  two  Cumean  Sibyls,  Cumea  and  Amalthea.  The  first  was  in 
the  height  of  her  glory  in  the  era  of  the  fall  of  Troy.  According  to  the  fable, 
Apollo  falling  in  love  with  her,  promised  her  whatever  she  wished  for :  she 
asked,  and  was  given  permission  to  live  as  many  years  as  she  held  grains  of 
sand  in  her  hand,  which,  on  being  counted,  amounted  to  one  thousand.  She 
was  seven  hundred  years  old  at  the  time,  (over  three  thousand  years  ago) 
when  Virgil  consulted  her,  and  had  grown  skinny  and  withered  like  a  mum- 
my by  extreme  age.  Amalthea,  who  sold  the  Sibyllian  books  to  Tarquin 
the  Proud,  appeared  here  near  six  hundred  years  later. 

In  the  dark  grottoes  and  dense  forests  around  Lake  Avernus,  lived  those  fa- 
mous prophets,  the  Cimmerians,  hence  the  expression  "  Cimmerian  darkness." 
The  darkness  of  the  forests,  the  poisonous  waters,  the  yawning  caverns  and 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  555 

grottoes,  of  this  region,  united  with  the  wild,  unearthly  character  and  profes- 
sion of  those  who  dwelt  in  its  solitudes,  were  the  foundation  of  the  most  in- 
imitable scenes  of  the  great  poem  of  Virgil. 

A  mile  from  Lake  Avernus  our  traveler  came  to  the  baths  of  the  tyrant 
Nero,  which  are  hot  enough  to  boil  eggs,  and  at  an  additional  mile,  to  the 
ruins  of  Baiae.  At  this  place,  Lucullus,  Julius  Caesar,  Horace,  and  numerous 
others  of  the  most  distinguished  Romans,  reared  magnificent  palaces  and  vil- 
las upon  the  sea-shore,  here  curving  round  in  a  beautiful  bay.  Its  delicious 
climate,  its  warm,  and  mineral  springs,  its  fruitful  soil,  its  waters  teeming  with 
fish,  converted  this  into  an  earthly  paradise,  attracting  crowds  of  the  wealthy 
and  luxurious  from  all  quarters,  who  made  this  the  great  center  of  sensual 
pleasure,  and  of  voluptuous  dalliance.  Truly  has  a  modern  poet  said  of  Baiae  : 
"  Thy  conquests  all  before  thee  lie, 
Man's  courage — woman's  modesty." 

After  visiting  the  ruins  of  the  three  beautiful  temples  of  Venus,  Mercury, 
and  Diana — the  supposed  tomb  of  Agrippina,  mother  of  the  monster  who 
fiddled  while  Rome  was  burning,  and  visiting  other  relics  and  localities  of 
similar  interest,  our  traveler  returned  to  Naples,  fatigued  with  the  day's  cir- 
cuit ;  but  with  gathered  store  of  historical  and  poetical  associations  for  de- 
lightful retrospect. 

The  third  excursion  which  Mr.  Fisk  made,  was  to  Vesuvius,  eight  miles 
from  Naples,  the  only  volcanic  mountain  on  the  continent,  and  one  of  the 
most  active  in  the  world.  All  around  its  base,  excepting  where  covered  with 
lava,  vineyards  are  cultivated,  producing  the  celebrated  wine  called  "  La  cry 
mce  Christi,"  i.  e.,  "tears  of  Christ/"  The  lava  is  of  various  colors,  but, 
generally,  dark-brown  ;  it  is  very  hard,  bears  a  beautiful  polish,  and  is  made 
into  a  great  variety  of  ornaments,  as  boxes,  necklaces,  bracelets,  etc.  It  is 
thirty  miles  around  the  base,  from  which  rise  three  peaks,  Somma,  Ottajano, 
and  Vesuvius.  The  bottom  of  the  cone  of  Vesuvius  is  about  half  a  mile  in 
perpendicular  height,  from  the  base:  it  is  reached  on  the  backs  of  donkeys,  01 
mules,  by  a  gradual  ascent  of  three  miles.  At  the  foot  of  the  cone  the  visi- 
tors alight,  and  prepare  to  ascend.  The  cone  of  the  present  time  is  about 
1200  feet  in  height,  and  so  very  steep  as  to  appear  nearly  perpendicular. 
From  here,  each  visitor  is  either  carried  up  in  a  chair,  lashed  to  poles,  and 
resting  on  the  shoulders  of  several  men,  or  he  makes  the  toilsome  ascent  on 
foot,  stepping  on  blocks  of  lava,  through  a  mass  of  ashes  and  cinders,  in 
which  his  feet  sink  ankle  deep,  and  slip  back  several  inches  at  every  step.  In 
this  case,  he  has,  however,  generally,  a  guide,  who  going  before  helps  him 
along  by  pulling  at  a  strap  fastened  around  his  body.  Arrived  at  the  sum- 
mit, he  sees  before  him  a  rim  or  edge  a  mile  across,  the  intervening  space 
being  the  crater,  a  yawning,  horrid  gulf,  in  the  center  of  which,  far  below,  an 
enormous  pit  is  belching  forth  vast  columns  of  smoke  and  fiery  flames. 

The  crater  frequently  changes  its  form,  hence,  the  ever-varying  descriptions 
of  travelers.  Previous  to  the  great  eruption  of  1631,  it  had  been  quiet  for 
centuries  ;  then  it  was  a  deep,  thickly-wooded,  and  romantic  valley,  filled  with 
game,  and  containing  one  or  two  little  lakes  of  exquisite  beauty.  Suddenly, 
it  burst  out,  desolating  the  country,  destroying  several  villages,  and  4,000 


566  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

lives.  In  1755,  the  top  part  of  the  cone  was  only  a  few  yards  in  depth, 
forming  a  sort  of  rim,  from  the  middle  of  which  rose  a  second  cone,  for  about 
ninety  feet,  with  its  own  interior  crater.  The  great  eruption  of  1822,  lowered 
the  cone  800  feet,  to  its  present  elevation. 

As  before  observed,  this  whole  region  round  about,  is  of  volcanic  forma- 
tion, and  the  inhabitants  of  its  vicinity  are  as  peculiarly  exposed,  as  were 
those  of  the  towns  and  villages  that  have  at  different  ages  been  suddenly 
overwhelmed.  From  beneath  the  very  center  of  Naples  itself,  it  is  not  at  all 
unlikely,  that  at  some  time,  may  burst  forth  such  an  eruption  as  that  of  the 
New  Mountain,  previously  described,  and  its  hundreds  of  thousands,  almost 
in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  be  consumed  in  one  vast  furnace  of  molten  fire. 
Yet  the  inhabitants  are  not  at  all  apprehensive  that  any  catastrophe  will  hap- 
pen in  their  day,  nor  travelers,  during  their  visit  to  the  crater  of  Vesuvius. 

The  government  of  Naples  is  one  of  the  most  despotic,  suspicious,  mean 
and  tyrannical  in  Europe,  and  Mr.  Fisk,  now  that  his  stay  here  had  drawn  to 
a  close,  was  glad  to  leave  for  Rome.  On  entering  it  he  had  been  saluted  by 
beggars  ;  while  in  it  he  was  surrounded  by  beggars ;  and  as  he  left  it  seven- 
teen of  these  miserable,  woe-begone,  oppressed  wretches,  attacked  himself 
and  party  with  their  never-ceasing  importunities. 

11  Rome,  still  great  in  its  decline,  is  more  interesting  to  a  reflecting  mind 
than  the  proudest  capital  of  our  day  ;  within  it  are  the  sublimest  monuments 
of  past  ages,  and  every  spot  is  rendered  sacred  by  awful  names,  heroic  ac- 
tions, and  the  fame  of  those  who  in  genius  and  glory,  towered  far  above  the 
rest  of  mankind.  Here,  too,  are  the  most  perfect  works  of  architecture, 
painting,  and  sculpture,  and  here  flock,  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  eager 
learners  in  the  most  exquisite  arts  of  refinement  and  beauty. 

There  were  three  cities  called  Rome  ;  that  which  the  Gauls  destroyed,  that 
which  Nero  burned,  and  that  which  Nero  rebuilt.  The  modern  city  is  still 
inclosed  by  them  ;  but  it  covers  only  a  portion  of  the  vast  site  occupied  b}T 
the  mistress  of  the  world.  Scattered  in  vast  and  shapeless  masses  over  the 
seven  hills,  appear  the  ruins  of  ancient  Rome,  standing  in  lonely  majesty 
amid  waving  groves  of  funeral  cypress.  Its  palaces,  its  tombs,  its  baths,  its 
temples,  with  their  pointed  obelisks,  are  majestic  but  solitary  objects  amid  the 
extensive  waste  of  time  and  desolation.  The  Palatine,  which  originally  con- 
tained the  whole  city  which  remained  always  the  chief  and  most  prosperous 
quarter,  and  is  represented  by  Cicero  as  crowded  with  the  senate,  the  orders, 
and  with  all  Italy,  presents  a  mere  landscape,  and  two  solitary  villas  and  a 
convent.  In  such  heaps  of  confusion  lie  the  ruins,  that  we  cannot,  with  but 
few  exceptions,  tell  the  site  of  even  the  most  famous  objects  of  antiquity. 
We  cannot  say,  'here  stood  the  house  of  Cicero,  of  Horace,  of  Maecenas.' 
However,  the  Capitol,  the  Forum,  the  hills,  are  stamped  with  those  charac- 
ters of  antiquity  that  cannot  be  mistaken.  A  walk  from  the  Capitol  to  the 
Coliseum  comprises  the  history  of  ages. 

Enough  yet  remains  of  the  ancient  edifices  to  inspire  most  solemn  emotions, 
and  to  give  a  full  idea  of  the  perfection  of  ancient  architectural  designs.  The 
Pantheon  and  Coliseum  remain  nearly  entire,  or  only  with  such  touches  of 
ruin  as  to  render  them  more  awful  and  picturesque.     The  Pantheon — the 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  557 

temple  of  the  gods — whose  portico,  it  is  said  '  shines  inimitable  on  the  earth,' 
preserves,  uninjured,  this  feature,  together  with  its  graceful  dome,  and  the 
rich  fluted  marble  pillars  that  line  its  walls." 

The  gigantic  Coliseum — the  amphitheater  for  gladiatorial  combats — is  the 
most  magnificent  ruin  on  the  globe  ;  it  is  of  an  oval  form,  and  about  one-third 
of  a  mile  in  circumference — a  vast  arena  with  seats  and  galleries,  rising  tier 
above  tier,  to  the  height  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  It  was  often 
crowded  to  the  enormous  capacity  of  more  than  100,000  persons,  and  even 
then  multitudes  sought  admittance  in  vain,  because  there  was  no  more  room. 
On  conspicuous  seats  sat  the  Roman  Emperor,  his  officers  and  nobles,  and 
behind,  in  tier  above  tier,  the  various  classes  of  citizens  in  the  order  of  their 
respective  ranks. 

At  its  first  open'ng,  in  the  year  A.  D.  80,  the  gladiatorial  sports  continued 
daily  for  one  hundred  days,  during  which,  5000  wild  beasts,  and  several 
thousand  gladiators  fell  victims  in  the  bloody  conflicts.  Such  was  the  eager- 
ness to  witness  the  barbarous  spectacle,  that  the  seats  began  to  be  taken  up 
at  midnight,  so  as  to  be  in  season  for  the  games  of  the  succeeding  day.  The 
signal  for  the  onset  was  given  by  a  virgin,  and  if  a  gladiator  fell  wounded,  it 
was  left  for  the  virgins  to  make  the  signal  for  his  preservation  or  his  death. 
Not  unfrequently,  the  latter  was  done,  when  if  the  poor  slave  died  gracefully, 
the  triumphant  plaudits  of  a  hundred  thousand  spectators,  ringing  through 
the  amphitheater,  consoled  him  for  his  fate. 

Soon  as  the  combats  were  over  for  the  day,  the  refined  and  polished  Ro- 
man ladies  descended  into  the  arena,  yet  red  with  human  gore,  to  partake  of  a 
feast  !  And  lastly,  two  aqueducts  forcing  in  a  flood  of  waters,  cleansed  out 
the  blood  for  the  next  exhibition.  Such  was  the  character  of  the  most  re- 
fined and  elegant  people  of  their  time,  and  no  better  would  that  of  any  be, 
of  even  our  day,  unaided  by  the  pure  and  benevolent  principles  of  Christia- 
nity. Who  is  it,  in  the  face  of  such  facts,  will  deny  that  the  world  is  not  im- 
proving, or  while  contrasting  the  inhumanity  of  ancient  civilization,  with  the 
humanity  of  the  modern,  can,  with  even  the  shadow  of  plausibility,  ascribe 
the  change  to  any  other  agency  than  that  which  proclaims  "  peace  on  earth, 
and  good- will  to  man?" 

The  ancient  tombs  are  of  colossal  proportions,  and  were  erected  under  the 
vain  desire  for  immortality.  The  mausoleum  of  Augustus  was  one  of  the 
most  splendid  monuments,  rising  to  the  height  of  three  stories,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  statue  of  the  Emperor;  "  each  higher  story  was  narrowed  by 
a  circling  offset,  planted  with  evergreens,  so  as  not  only  to  give  to  the  house 
perpetuity,  but  to  wreath  it  around  with  unfading  circlets  of  perpetual  ver- 
dure." It  is  used  as  a  circus,  while  that  of  Adrian,  which  was  perhaps  still 
more  magnificent,  has  been  converted  into  a  fort,  with  black-mouthed  artil- 
lery pointing  defiance.  The  tomb  of  Caius  Cestus,  a  priest,  is  a  pyramid 
sixty-nine  feet  square,  and  113  feet  high. 

Another  kind  of  tomb,  for  the  more  common  people,  is  called  Columbarium. 
One  which  Mr.  Fisk  entered,  is  a  subterranean  structure,  with  walled  apart- 
ments, full  of  pigeon-holes,  in  which  are  urns  yet  containing  the  burnt  bones 
of  citizens  of  ancient  Rome.     The  old  Romans  bordered  some  of  the  high- 


568  FISK'S   TRAVELS  IN   ITALY. 

ways  leading  from  their  cities  with  tombs  ;  at  Rome,  the  Appian  Way  was 
thus  lined  for  many  miles  out  of  the  city,  the  ruins  of  which  yet  remain.  The 
catacombs,  supposed  originally  to  have  been  quarries,  were  also  much  uiied  ; 
they  extended  under  the  city  for  many  miles,  winding  about  in  perfect  laby- 
rinths, and  communicating  with  each  other,  and  it  is  stated,  even  with  Oslia, 
eighteen  miles  distant. 

The  baths  of  the  ancient  Romans  exceeded,  both  in  extent  and  magnificence, 
everything  known  in  modern  times.  Bathing  being  universal  with  all  classes, 
these  establishments  were  built  by  the  government.  Beside  the  splendor 
of  their  architecture,  the  luxurious  sensuality  of  the  people,  alive  to  "the  most 
refined  excesses  of  licentious  indulgence,"  converted  them  into  splendid  bro- 
thels, the  various  apartments  connecting  for  this  object.  Attached,  were 
temples,  porticoes,  and  palaces,  adorned  with  beautiful  statuary.  The  baths 
of  Caracalla,  resemble  the  ruins  of  a  city  rather  than  of  any  single  structure. 
They  occupied  an  elegant  square,  of  over  two-thirds  of  a  mile  in  circuit, 
were  three  stories  under,  and  two  above  ground  ;  and  divided  into  1600 
bathing  rooms,  together  with  a  large  number  of  bathing  tubs,  beautifully 
sculptured  in  porphyry,  marble,  and  granite  ;  they  accommodated  three 
thousand  bathers  at  a  time. 

The  baths  of  Dioclesian  are  almost  equally  vast ;  and  those  of  Titus, 
although  smaller,  were  constructed  in  purer  taste,  and  beneath  them  was 
wound  the  Laocoon,  and  the  finest  remains  of  ancient  painting. 

The  aqueducts  supplied  the  baths  with  water,  heated  by  stoves  to  any 
temperature  desired.  The  ancient  Romans,  ignorant  of  the  fact,  that  water 
rises  to  the  level  of  its  source,  constructed  those  magnificent  aqueducts,  the 
wonder  of  our  time,  upon  whose  stupendous  arches  rivers  of  water  flowed 
into  the  city,  from  a  distance  of  twenty  and  thirty  miles  ;  some  of  these  are 
yet  in  use,  and  supply  the  beautiful  fountains  of  modern  Rome. 

The  columns  of  Trajan,  and  that  of  Antonius  Severus,  are  magnificent  ex- 
amples of  columnar  structures  :  they  are  of  pure  white  marble,  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  high,  and  decorated  with  a  series  of  sculptures,  re 
presenting  battle  scenes  and  triumphal  processions  :  these  wind  in  a  spira. 
line  from  the  base  to  the  summit  of  each.  That  of  Trajan  in  particular,  con- 
tains two  thousand  five  hundred  figures,  forming  a  complete  system  of  Roman 
antiquities,  and  a  mine  from  which  all  modern  painters  have  drawn  materials. 
Of  the  triumphal  arches,  that  of  Constantine  is  the  loftiest  and  the  noblest  ; 
that  of  Titus  the  richest,  although  too  much  crowded  with  sculpture. 

The  villas  in  the  vicinity  of  Rome,  together  with  their  gardens,  are  a  great 
ornament  to  the  city  :  the  gardens  of  Lucullus,  of  Maecenas,  of  Sallust,  are 
peculiarly  spacious  and  magnificent.  Among  the  villas,  that  designed  and 
erected  by  the  Emperor  Adrian  at  the  beginning  of  the  second  century,  is  an 
exceedingly  interesting  collection  of  ruins,  standing  on  a  gentle  elevation  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  mountains.  It  occupied  a  space  one  mile  wide,  and  over 
three  miles  long,  and  contained  the  emperor's  palaces  and  gardens,  several 
splendid  temples,  the  schools  of  the  phk  jsophers,  public  libraries,  theaters 
and  amphitheaters,  etc.,  etc.  The  Emperor  Adrian  was  noted  for  his  talents 
and  virtues,  although  not  a  believer  in  Christianity ;  yet  he  thought  so  well 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  5lH 

of  it  as  to  stop  the  persecutions,  and  so  much  admired  the  character  of  Jesus 
Christ,  that  it  is  said,  "he  had  serious  thoughts  of  admitting  him  among  the 
number  of  his  gods." 

Modern  Rome,  independent  of  the  many  single  majestic  objects,  is  not  a 
fine  city.  The  streets  are  paved  with  rough  pavement,  ill  suited  to  foot  pas- 
sengers ;  the  houses  are  built  of  stone,  and  stuccoed.  It  is  one  of  the  filthiest 
of  cities,  and  the  filth  is  accumulated  even  in  presence  of  some  of  the  most  ma- 
jestic piles,  to  such  an  extent  as  to  be  almost  unapproachable  to  the  stranger. 
The  whole  pavement  around  the  Pantheon  is  revolting  to  every  sense  ;  sprin- 
kled with  blood  and  filth,  entrails  of  pigs,  and  piles  of  stale  fish.  The 
grounds  upon  which  stand  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  Forum  alike  make 
a  profuse  display  of  filth.  The  population  of  the  city  has  increased  in  con- 
sequence of  the  resort  of  strangers,  to  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 

"  No  city  in  the  world  can  compare  in  the  splendor  of  its  churches  with  this, 
the  metropolis  of  the  Catholic  world.  He  who  delights  in  halls  of  an  im- 
mense size  and  exact  proportion,  in  lengthening  colonnades  and  vast  pillars 
of  one  solid  block  of  porphyry,  of  granite,  of  Parian  or  Egyptian  marble  ;  in 
pavements  that  glow  with  all  the  tints  of  the  rainbow,  and  roofs  that  blaze 
with  brass  or  gold  ;  in  canvas  warm  as  life  itself,  and  statues  ready  to  start 
from  tombs  on  which  they  recline,  will  range  round  the  churches  of  Rome, 
and  find  in  them  an  inexhaustible  source  of  instructive  and  rational  amuse- 
ment." Foremost  among  the  churches  of  Rome  and  of  the  world,  stands  the 
majestic  front  and  sublime  dome  of  St.  Peter.  On  its  site  has  always  been 
the  principal  church  of  Rome,  erected  by  Constantine,  and  rendered  sacred 
by  containing  the  ashes  of  the  apostle  from  whence  the  bishops  of  Rome 
claim  their  descent  and  authority.  After  being  embellished  during  succes- 
sive ages,  it  began  to  threaten  to  fall,  when  the  project  was  conceived  of 
erecting  a  new  and  nobler  structure.  It  was  carried  on  for  a  hundred  years 
by  eighteen  successive  pontiffs,  all  devoting  to  it  a  large  proportion  of  their 
treasures,  and  employing  upon  it  the  talents  of  Michael  Angelo  and  other 
eminent  artists.  The  colonnade  and  dome  are  perfectly  unrivaled,  and  ren- 
der it  the  most  magnificent  structure  ever  reared  by  mortal  hands.  It  is  in 
the  form  of  a  cross,  covers  five  acres  of  ground,  and  its  dome  rises  to  the 
height  of  four  hundred  feet  from  the  pavement :  the  whole  cost  of  the  struc- 
ture was  sixty  millions  of  dollars.  As  the  visitor  enters  the  church  he  is  as- 
tonished at  the  immensity  and  grandeur  of  the  scene  before  him — at  such  a 
wonderful  exhibition  of  human  industry  and  genius  ;  such  perfect  symmetry 
and  proportion  in  everything  around  him.  Like  all  the  churches  of  Rome,  it 
abounds  in  relics.  Here  one  is  shown  the  pillar  against  which  our  Savior 
leaned  when  disputing  with  the  doctors — the  vail  of  the  Virgin  Mary — the 
manger  in  which  the  infant  Christ  was  laid.  Over  the  altar,  too,  is  a  part  of 
the  very  lance  with  which  the  Savior's  side  was  pierced  ;  parts  of  the  cross 
on  which  he  was  crucified,  and  a  handkerchief,  which  was  lent  to  Christ,  as 
lie  was  going  to  the  cross,  by  a  woman,  with  which  to  wipe  the  sweat  and 
alood  from  his  face  ;  when  lo  !  a  miracle  was  performed — a  perfect  portrait 
of  him  being  imprinted  thereon.  Above  the  dome  is  what  appears  to  be  a 
little  brass  ball,  about  the  size  of  a  small  globe,  yet  within  it  there  is  room  for 


570  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY 

sixteen  or  twenty  men,  and  just  about  in  this  proportion  are  the  statues,  pil- 
lars, and  othei  objects  connected  with  the  edifice. 

Mr.  Fisk  was  in  Rome  during  passion  week,  and  gives  a  lengthy  description 
of  the  ceremonies  of  the  Catholic  Church,  which  our  assigned  limits  will  per- 
mit us  but  to  briefly  notice.  Some  of  these  form  the  most  magnificent  and 
gorgeous  spectacles  in  the  universe. 

The  exercises  were  opened  with  Palm  Sunday,  which  was  established  to 
celebrate  our  Savior's  triumphant  entry  into  Jerusalem.  This  splendid  cere- 
mony took  place  in  the  little  chapel  of  "  Capella  Sistina,"  which  was  crowded 
to  excess.  The  Pope  entered  in  great  state,  wearing  a  silver  miter,  and  at- 
tired in  a  magnificent  purple  robe,  resplendent  with  gold  and  silver,  and 
glittering  gems.  Being  seated  upon  his  throne,  the  cardinals,  bishops,  and 
other  church  dignitaries  proceeded  to  pay  their  respects  to  his  holiness  by 
kissing  his  hands  and  his  feet,  and  humbly  bowing  the  knee.  This  seemed 
to  our  Protestant  divine  very  much  like  man  worship ;  but  the  pope's  title, 
"  God's  vicegerent  on  earth,"  and  the  remark  of  an  intelligent  Catholic,  that 
he  was  "  God  Almighty  upon  earth,"  is  in  the  view  of  his  people  a  warrant 
for  this  seeming  adoration.  This  was  followed  by  some  admirable  music 
from  the  choir  of  the  pope,  who  began  with  the  Hosanna,  sung  by  the  children 
on  the  entry  of  Christ  into  Jerusalem,  reading  scriptures,  prayer  of  blessing, 
chanting,  etc.  Branches  of  palm  and  olive,  having,  by  these  exercises,  been 
blessed,  were  distributed  by  the  pope,  firstly,  to  the  cardinals,  then  to  the 
patriarchs,  archbishops,  bishops,  and  so  on  through  about  thirty  grades  of 
priestly  orders.  The  higher  grades  waved  the  palms  by  bowing,  kissing  his 
hands,  then  the  palm,  and  lastly  his  knees  ;  all  below  the  rank  of  bishop 
kissed  his  foot  instead  of  his  knees.  After  this,  the  pope,  seated  in  a  magnifi- 
cent chair,  with  a  gorgeous  canopy,  rich  in  crimson  and  gold,  was  borne  in 
a  procession  to  the  chapel  on  the  shoulders  of  eight  referendees  richly  at- 
tired. As  his  holiness  passed,  the  people  and  soldiers  dropped  upon  their 
knees.  High  mass  ended  the  ceremonies.  Dr.  Fisk  thought  this  a  splendid 
earthly  pageant,  and,  as  a  ceremony,  certainly  imposing  ;  but  as  a  religious 
ceremony,  founded  upon  the  entrance  into  Jerusalem  of  the  meek  and  lowly 
Jesus  upon  an  ass,  "the  very  contrast  of  the  thing  signified." 

On  Wednesday  our  traveler  listened  to  the  finest  music  he  ever  heard  :  it 
was  from  the  Pope's  choir.  The  "  function"  is  called  the  "tenebrce,"  or 
"  darkness,"  and  is  intended  as  a  commemoration  of  the  darkness  and  gloom 
of  the  church  at  the  hour  of  betrayal,  or  it  may  be,  the  scene  in  the  garden. 
The  exercises  were  principally  taken  up  with  chanting  from  the  Psalms,  the 
Lamentations  of  Jeremiah,  etc.  etc.,  interspersed  with  antiphonies,  all  execu- 
ted with  surprising  skill.  The  crowning  piece  of  the  whole  was  the  "miserere" 
the  51st  Psalm,  set  to  music.  The  humble  confession,  and  the  deep  contri- 
tion of  this  exquisite  composition,  were  so  powerfully  expressed,  when  united 
to  this  surpassing  music,  as  to  be  completely  overwhelming.  "  Such  wailing," 
says  Dr.  Fisk,  "  lamentation,  and  woe  !  Such  tender,  melting,  agonizing 
strains  of  penitential  grief  and  contrition  !  They  came  over  my  soul  like  a 
dissolving  charm,  melting  my  heart  and  opening  the  very  fountains  of  grief 
Every  emotion  of  my  soul  chimed  in  with  the  sentiments  and  music — I  felt 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  571 

myself  entirely  carried  away  and  overpowered  by  the  inspirations  of  the  oc- 
casion." The  music  was  so  skillfully  arranged  and  modified,  as  to  sound 
"  like  a  multitude  of  old  men  and  maidens,  young  men  and  children,  pour- 
ing forth  their  united  concordant  strains  of  chastened  grief,  in  all  their  bitter- 
ness and  reverence,  of  supplication  and  adoring  penitence." 

The  next  day  was  called  Maundy,  Thursday,  "  because  our  Savior  gave 
the  mandatum,  or  command  to  the  disciples,  to  wash  each  other's  feet.  There 
were  several  "  functions"  performed  this  day  ;  the  first  was  high  mass  before 
the  Pope,  in  Sistine  Chapel.  High  mass  differs  from  common  mass,  simply 
in  its  being  attended  with  more  ceremonies,  in  which  a  greater  number  of 
persons  officiate.  Mass  is  the  "  Lord's  Supper,"  of  which  institution  the 
Catholics  have  different  views  from  the  Protestants.  The  former  consider  it 
an  "unbloody  sacrifice,  in  which,  by  the  power  of  God,  the  institutions  of 
Christ,  the  ministry  of  the  priest,  the  body  and  blood  of  our  blessed  Savior  are 
produced  upon  the  altar,  under  the  appearance  of  bread  and  wine,  and  there  of- 
fered to  the  Almighty  as  a  propitiation  for  the  sins  of  mankind,  in  testimony 
of  the  adoration  or  homage  which  is  his  due."  The  service  is  in  Latin,  and 
performed  with  a  great  deal  of  ceremony,  the  priest  being,  usually,  the  only 
person  who  partakes  of  the  consecrated  elements. 

At  the  conclusion  of  this  service,  the  Pope,  preceded  by  a  cross,  walked  in 
procession  to  the  sound  of  beautiful  music,  amid  the  smoke  of  burning  in- 
cense, to  deposit  the  consecrated  wafer,  or  host,  in  a  splendidly  adorned  altar, 
in  the  Pauline  Chapel,  which  was  illuminated  with  600  wax  candles. 

As  his  Holiness  walked  along,  bearing  the  sacred  object,  the  multitude  fell 
upon  their  knees,  and  bowed  in  humble  adoration.  A  benediction  from  the 
Pope,  upon  the  kneeling  multitude  in  the  church  of  St.  Peter,  the  ringing  of 
bells,  and  the  firing  of  artillery,  soon  after  succeeded.  He  then  retired  to 
make  ready  for  the  ceremony  of  washing  the  feet  of  thirteen  persons,  twelve 
of  whom  represented  those  whose  feet  were  washed  by  our  Savior.  Gorge- 
ously attired,  he  descended  from  his  throne,  and  to  each  in  turn,  went  through 
with  the  ceremony,  ending  by  kissing  the  foot  of  the  person.  A  purse  and 
medal,  a  towel  and  nosegay  were  thereupon  given  to  each,  and  the  exercises 
concluded  with  a  prayer,  etc.  The  last  grand  "  function"  of  the  day  was  a 
dinner,  given  to  "  the  pilgrims,"  in  the  palace  of  the  Vatican,  in  which  Dr. 
Fisk  had  the  gratification  of  seeing  "  the  symbolical  apostles  eat  their  sweet- 
meats and  drink  their  wine,"  while  the  Pope  himself  waited  at  the  table. 

The  ceremonies  on  Good  Friday,  Saturday  before  Easter,  and  on  Easter 
Sunday,  itself,  are  too  long  for  description.  On  this  last-named  day,  the 
Pope  himself  performed  high  mass,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  solemnity.  As 
he  elevated,  the  Host  for  the  adoration  of  the  multitude,  tears  gushed  into  his 
eyes,  and  he  seemed  completely  melted  down,  and  overcome  by  the  ardor  of 
his  emotions.  Our  Protestant  divine  could  not  but  think  favo;  ibly  of  the 
sincerity  and  piety  of  this  venerable  old  man.  He  was,  too,  agreeably  sur- 
prised at  the  extreme  courtesy  of  the  Catholics,  who,  although  perfectly 
aware  of  his  non-conformity  in  all  the  ceremonies  of  the  occasion — standing 
erect  when  the  assembled  thousands  bowed — did  not  censure  nor  apparently 
notice  him 


572  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

One  evening  our  traveler  went  to  a  particular  church,  to  be  present  at  a 
singular  ceremony — "  the  flagellation."  None  but  males  were  allowed  to 
enter — the  door  was  soon  bolted,  and  the  solitary  light  which  shed  a  gloom 
over  everything,  was  then  taken  to  a  temporary  platform,  near  a  crucifix.  A 
pilgrim -like,  gloomy-looking  ecclesiastic  ascended,  and  made  an  impassioned 
harangue,  in  which  he  spoke  of  the  sufferings  of  Christ,  and  the  duty  of  all 
to  be  willing  to  chastise  themselves  for  their  sins,  because  Christ  was  chas- 
tised, and  suffered  for  their  transgression.  The  light  being  then  taken  away 
the  tragedy  opened  in  the  midst  of  dense  darkness.  First  came  the  violent 
cracking  of  whips  and  thongs,  succeeded  by  the  most  bitter  groans,  and 
wailings,  as  from  miserable  wretches  writhing  under  torture.  The  sounds 
became  commingled ;  the  strokes  fell  thick  as  hail ;  and  groans  and  howlings 
filled  the  temple.  It  was  an  awful  scene  !  In  a  few  minutes,  a  pause  en- 
sued, and  the  exhortations  were  renewed  amid  the  darkness,  and  in  sharp, 
screaming  tones,  that  echoed  maniac-like,  among  the  invisible  arches  of  the 
church.  Another  pause,  and  the  flagellation,  the  dreadful  wailings  and  ago- 
nizing sounds,  again  succeeded. 

In  the  nunnery  of  the  church  of  St.  Cecilia,  Dr.  Fisk  saw  the  ceremony  ol 
two  young  ladies  taking  the  vail.  The  candidates  entered  attired  like  prin- 
cesses, followed  by  little  girls,  with  wings  like  angels,  bearing  their  trains. 
After  some  ceremonies,  and  a  discourse  defending  perpetual  virginity,  and  por- 
traying the  advantage  of  a  monastic  life,  the  usual  service  on  such  occa- 
sions was  performed,  during  which  the  officiating  bishop,  with  a  pair  of  golden 
scissors,  clipped  off  from  each  a  lock  of  hair.  Then  they  were  completely 
stripped  of  their  ornaments,  their  hair  turned  back,  and  covered  with  a  plain 
cap,  and  their  rich  dresses  taken  off,  leaving  them  "modestly  blushing"  in 
the  sole  covering  of  a  single  white  under  garment.  Uttering  some  words  to 
show  they  had  renounced  the  world  and  all  its  vanities,  they  cast  aside  their 
gay  dresses,  and  princely  ornaments  ;  then  they  each  put  on  the  plain  attire 
of  the  nun,  received  a  crucifix,  rosary,  prayer-book,  and  a  lighted  candle, 
and  lastly,  were  crowned  with  a  wreath  of  silver.  They  kissed  each  object 
as  they  received  it,  also  the  hand  of  the  priest  who  offered  them.  The  change 
was  sudden,  the  contrast  most  striking.  "  It  was  as  if  a  princess,  by  the 
touch  of  a  Roman  wand,  had  been  metamorphosed  into  a  meek-eyed,  mo- 
destly-appareled sister  of  charity."  When  the  ceremonies  were  ended,  and 
the  final  farewell  took  place  between  them  and  their  friends,  some  of  the  lat- 
ter found  it  difficult  to  conceal  their  emotions,  and  a  sister  of  one  of  them 
drew  back  with  eyes  swimming  in  tears. 

Usually  the  splendid  festivities  of  passion  week,  are  concluded  by  fire- 
works at  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelos,  and  illuminations  on  the  church  of  St. 
Peter.  This  edifice  is  then  covered  by  thousands  of  lamps  and  torches. 
Large  numbers  of  men  are  suspended  on  the  outside  by  ropes  to  do  the 
lighting,  who  are  moved  by  pulleys  by  others  within.  Their  duties  are  so 
dangerous  that  they  all  previously  receive  the  sacrament,  to  be  prepared  for 
sudden  death.  When  lighted,  the  whole  of  this  vast  edifice,  from  the  base 
to  the  cross  on  the  dome,  is  in  one  blaze.  The  illumination  at  first,  is  mild, 
and  soft  as  moonlight ;  suddenly,  as  if  by  enchantment,  it  changes  into  an 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  573 

mrivaled  blaze,  with  an  inconceivable  splendor  of  transition  and  bril- 
liancy. 

Learning  there  was  enchanting  music  at  vespers  on  Sabbath  evening  in  the 
church  Chiesa  della  Trinita — "  Church  of  the  Trinity,"  our  traveler,  one 
Sunday  evening  while  in  Rome,  went  thither,  asked  permission  of  some  priests 
about  entering,  to  go  in  with  them,  stating  that  he  was  a  stranger.  **  They 
bowed  assent  with  the  usual  frankness  and  courtesy  of  the  Italians,  especi- 
ally of  the  priests."  A  nun  of  most  angelic  countenance  opened  the  door, 
and  he  was  shown  in.  It  was  early,  and  a  solitary  priest  only  was  present 
engaged  in  his  devotions.  In  him  he  recognized  an  acquaintance,  who  was 
both  a  count  and  a  priest,  and  a  gentleman  of  soft,  kind,  and  winning 
manners. 

At  the  sound  of  the  vesper  bell,  the  nuns  began  to  come  in.  All  were 
dressed  neatly,  and  their  countenances  cheerful,  and  of  a  heavenly  expression, 
evidently  produced  by  the  habitual  state  of  their  mind.  "  The  service,"  says 
Dr.  Fisk,  "  consisted  chiefly  of  music  from  the  voices  of  the  nuns,  accompa- 
nied by  the  organ,  and  such  an  organ  !  and  such  voices  !  The  organ  seemed 
to  have  been  constructed  on  purpose  to  symphonise  with  the  sweet  voices  of 
the  sisters,  and  sweet  were  those  voices,  and  sweet  was  that  organ."  The 
music  was  a  hymn  of  praise  of  a  lively,  cheerful  nature,  and  its  effect  upon 
our  traveler  was  indescribable.  It  was  not  overwhelming,  but  seemed  gradu- 
ally to  enter  into  the  very  recesses  of  his  soul  and  "then  to  diffuse  itself  to 
the  extremities,  through  all  the  conductors  of  feeling,  until  his  whole  system 
was  exhilarated  and  enchanted."  Ever  after,  when  his  mind  reverted  to  this 
church,  he  seemed  to  hear  those  heavenly,  ravishing  voices  anew,  "  like  the 
memory  of  joys  that  are  past,  pleasant  and  mournful  to  the  soul."  Never 
before  had  he  felt  so  much  devotion  in  a  Catholic  church,  and  he  was  re- 
luctant to  leave  a  spot  that  had  given  him  such  unexpected,  such  refined,  and 
exquisite  delight. 

"The  street  music,  and  that  of  the  peasantry  of  Italy,  is  absolutely 
horrible,  scarcely  less  repulsive  than  the  braying  of  an  ass,"  and  it  is  the 
same  with  much  of  that  of  the  churches.  The  popular  airs  do  not  compare 
with  those  of  Switzerland  and  Scotland,  which  are  the  very  "  melody  of 
nature,"  and  the  singing  of  whose  peasantry  is  "absolutely  enchanting." 
It  is  probably  occasioned  by  the  great  refinement,  and  the  scientific  character 
of  the  Italian  music,  which  only  the  most  cultivated  can  perform,  while  its 
effect  has  been  to  annihilate  the  simplicity  of  nature  in  the  mass,  who  in 
attempting  what  is  beyond  their  reach,  lose  everything. 

Soon  after  the  close  of  the  ceremonies  of  Passion  week,  Mr.  Fisk  hastened 
to  escape  the  heat  and  malaria  of  central  Italy,  taking  a  berlin  drawn  by  mules, 
for  Florence.  Passing  over  the  level  champaign  country  called  "Campagna 
Romana,"  where  the  deadly  malaria  holds  its  court,  and  a  few  cadaverous 
shepherds  and  herdsmen,  with  their  flocks  and  droves  are  the  only  inhabi- 
tants to  be  met  with,  he  reached,  on  the  second  day,  among  the  mountains, 
the  famous  Falls  of  Terni,  the  most  beautiful  in  Europe.  They  comprise 
three  falls,  one  of  which  is  300,  the  other  two  over  400  feet  in  descent. 
They  were  artifi  ually  formed,  more  than  2,000  years  ago,  by,  cutting  new 


574  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

channels  for  the  Evelino.  At  mid-day,  when  the  sun  shines  upon  the  spray, 
rainbows  of  extraordinary  brilliancy  appear.  The  precipices  forming  the 
cataract  are  of  white  marble  ;  hence  it  is  called  "  the  Marble  Cascade." 

A  morning  or  two  after,  our  traveler  passed  the  celebrated  battle-ground 
near  the  lake  Thrasymene,  where  Hannibal  overthrew  and  almost  entirely 
annihilated  the  army  of  the  Roman  Consul  Flaminius.  The  Romans  were 
artfully  decoyed  into  a  very  deep  and  narrow  valley,  with  only  two  small 
outlets.  The  Carthaginians  lay  in  ambush  upon  the  bounding  hills,  and 
when  their  enemies  were  fairly  within  the  trap,  a  heavy  force  closed  up  the 
outlets,  and  the  concerted  signal  was  given  for  the  onset,  when  the  Romans 
found,  too  late,  that  they  were  surrounded.  The  day  was  propitious  for  the 
Carthaginians,  for  while  the  hills  were  in  sunshine,  a  dense  fog  filled  the 
valley,  and  a  complete  shower  of  weapons  were  hurled  upon  the  astonished 
and  panic-stricken  Romans  from  their  unseen  foes.  Hannibal  was  now  as- 
cendant in  Italy,  and  Rome  might  have  been  no  more,  had  not  the  luxury 
and  licentiousness  of  the  Roman  Campagna  been  more  fatal  to  his  army  than 
Roman  valor.  And  so  it  was  decreed  that  Rome  should  be  the  eternal  city, 
and  Carthage  destroyed. 

The  next  day  Dr.  Fisk  was  in  Florence.  The  surrounding  country,  with 
its  green  mountains  and  richly  embowered  vineyards,  was  in  the  full  beauty 
and  fragrance  of  the  Italian  spring.  Beyond  Florence  to  Bologna,  his  route 
was  over  the  Apennines.  The  mountains  bore  but  a  few  scanty  trees  and 
shrubs;  the  snow  banks  scattered  here  and  there  gave  them  a  chilling,  desolate 
aspect,  where  "  winter  still  lingered  in  the  lap  of  spring." 

On  the  banks  of  the  Reno,  on  the  margin  of  the  lovely  valley  of  Lombard}', 
at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines,  stands  Bologna,  a  city  older  than  Rome  itself. 
It  contains  some  magnificent  buildings,  and,  excepting  Rome,  the  finest  col- 
lection of  paintings  of  celebrated  masters  in  the  world.  Here  lived  the  fa- 
mous painter  Guido,  and  the  scarcely  less  celebrated  Dominichino,  nicknamed 
by  his  comrades  '*  the  ox,"  from  his  slow,  plodding  disposition,  but  which, 
eventually,  enabled  him  to  outstrip  them  all. 

Our  traveler's  next  stage  beyond  Bologna  was  to  Ferrara,  where  lived  the 
poets  Ariosto  and  Tasso.  The  former  dwelt  in  a  dwelling  so  humble  and 
unpretending  that  he  was  asked  why  he,  "who  had  described  such  magnifi- 
cent palaces,  had  made  a  house  so  small?"  To  this  he  replied,  "  words  are 
put  together  cheaper  than  stones." 

Tasso  was  not  born  here,  but  was  imprisoned  here  for  years,  a  love-sick 
poet.  He  fell  in  love  with  the  charming  Elenora,  sister  of  the  duke,  his  pa- 
tron, and,  in  the  ardor  of  his  feelings,  clasped  her  in  his  arms  in  the  midst  of 
a  crowded  assembly.  The  proud,  incensed  duke  declared  him  mad,  and  pe- 
remptorily ordered  him  to  be  immured  in  a  dreary  dungeon,  there  to  reflect 
at  leisure  upon  the  arrogance  of  a  poor  poet  in  aspiring  to  the  hand  of  royalty. 

Both  Bologna  and  Ferrara  are  within  the  dominions  of  the  pope.  Nowhere 
did  our  traveler  observe  so  much  dissatisfaction  and  complaining  of  the  go- 
vernment as  in  these  places.  Whenever  the  pope  was  spoken  of,  it  was  gene- 
rally with  a  shrug  or  sneer.  Nothing  but  the  presence  of  Austrian  bayonet* 
seemed  to  keep  the  people  in  subjection. 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  575 

Ferrara  is  now  a  decayed  city,  but  at  one  time  was  prominent  among  the 
thirty  little  republics  and  baronies  of  Lombardy,  when  it  was  a  seat  of  learn- 
ing, and  the  residence  of  men  of  eminence.  Bologna  now  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  seventy  thousand.  Its  main  streets  are  lined  with  arcades,  and  con- 
tinued porticoes,  to  exclude  the  rays  of  the  hot  sun  :  their  only  disadvantage 
is  that  they  are  narrow,  and  render  the  streets  gloomy. 

The  second  day  after  leaving  Ferrara,  our  traveler  came  to  the  little  vil- 
lage of  Arqua,  among  the  Eugenean  Hills,  where  stands  the  residence  of 
Petrarch,  the  "  father  of  modern  poetry."  His  house,  furniture,  study — the 
very  balcony  from  which  he  was  accustomed  to  gaze  upon  the  beauty  of  the 
picturesque  country  around,  remain  just  as  he  left  them  near  five  centuries 
ago  ;  the  walls  are  adorned  with  fresco  paintings  of  the  poet  and  his  lovely 
Laura.  His  tomb  stands  in  front  of  an  humble  rustic  church  in  the  valley 
just  below. 

Passing  through  Padua,  where  the  renowned  historian  Livy  was  born,  and 
once  the  seat  of  a  famous  university,  which,  in  its  palmy  days,  numbered 
eighteen  thousand  students,  our  traveler  continued  on  to  Venice,  which  he 
reached  in  a  gondola  from  the  main  land  on  the  evening  of  the  great  festival 
of  St.  Mark,  the  patron  saint  of  the  city.  When  the  republic  was  in  its  glory 
the  day  was  celebrated  with  great  pomp  ;  the  Doge  was  then  accustomed  to 
wed  the  Adriatic  sea,  going  out  for  that  purpose  in  a  magnificent  galley,  and, 
with  various  ceremonies,  casting  a  ring  into  the  sea,  at  the  same  time  exclaim- 
ing "  We  marry  thee,  oh,  sea,  in  token  of  that  true  and  perpetual  dominion 
which  this  republic  has  over  thee  !" 

Venice  is  a  historical  curiosity.  Some  fourteen  or  fifteen  centuries  since 
its  site  was  a  few  islets  rising  from  the  waves  of  the  Adriatic.  Gradually  the 
nucleus  of  a  city  was  formed,  and  it  became  the  resort  of  the  enterprising, 
the  friends  of  liberty,  and  those  fond  of  adventure.  By  degrees  it  attained  a 
population  of  two  hundred  thousand,  and  for  fourteen  hundred  years  main- 
tained its  independence. 

"  In  its  early  day  the  republic  of  Venice  was  noted  for  the  moderation,  chas- 
tity, and  virtue  of  its  people.  Riches,  honor  and  ambition  had  no  charms  for 
them — all  lived  upon  a  familiar  equality.  Property  was  common  to  all,  and 
devoted  to  the  public  benefit.  Merit  was  the  only  distinction,  and  that  alone 
was  esteemed  true  nobility  which  was  acquired  by  virtue.  Under  such  happy 
auspices  did  this  republic  receive  her  first  laws,  ordinances  and  regulations  ; 
upon  such  a  foundation  she  grew  up  to  be  a  great  maritime  power  :  into  her 
treasury  flowed  the  commerce  and  wealth  of  the  East.  She  ruled  the  Medi- 
terranean, took  Constantinople,  and  set  bounds  to  the  Ottoman  power  at  a 
moment  when  it  seemed  ready  to  overwhelm  all  Europe." 

The  government  gradually  changed,  and  verged  more  and  more  toward 
absolutism,  until  it  became  among  the  most  despotic.  At  first  the  executive 
power  was  vested  in  Tribunes,  annually  elected  by  the  people.  In  697  the 
constitution  was  so  changed  as  to  place  all  the  executive  power  in  a  single 
man,  entitled  the  Doge,  who  held  his  office  for  life.  In  1172,  the  citizens 
wisely  substituted  an  annual  legislature,  elected  from  among  themselves  foi 
the  popular  assemblies.     In  1297,  the  constitution  was  sc  altered  that  this 


576  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

legislature  was  formed  solely  from  the  aristocratic  classes,  which  proved  a 
fatal  change  for  the  public  welfare,  for  now  was  introduced  a  system  of  es- 
pionage, which,  in  connection  with  official  informers  and  secret  courts,  was 
one  of  the  most  cruel  and  infamous  engines  of  tyranny,  perhaps,  ever  known. 
'No  man's  life,  liberty,  or  property,  was  secure.  When  any  fell  under  sus- 
picion, they  were  privately  arrested,  and  in  most  cases  were  heard  of  no 
more.  Everything  was  conducted  with  the  most  profound  secrecy  ;  the 
accused  victim  knew  not  the  secret  tongue  that  betrayed  him,  or  the  secret 
hand  that  stabbed  him.  Near  the  ducal  palace,  and  separated  only  by  a 
canal,  is  a  prison ;  this  prison  is  connected  with  the  palace  by  a  covered 
bridge,  called  the  Bridge  of  Sighs.  This  bridge  has  or  had,  for  it  is  now 
closed  up,  two  passages  ;  one  leading  from  the  prison  into  the  council  cham- 
bers, and  another  leading  to  other  more  private  apartments  and  dungeons 
under  the  palace  itself.  These  dungeons  were  also  accessible  from  the  pa- 
lace by  a  secret  passage,  unknown  to  the  public  until  the  arcana  of  these 
apartments  of  death  were  laid  open  by  the  French.  Indeed,  it  is  said,  that 
the  citizens  generally  did  not  know  of  the  existence  of  these  wretched  cells. 
Here  the  trembling  victims  were  led  to  the  torture  and  to  death.  "  We 
visited,"  says  our  traveler,  "these  gloomy  prisons;  they  were  dark  as 
night,  and  consisted  each  of  one  arch  of  heavy  masonry,  with  a  single  hole 
for  purposes  of  respiration,  etc.  They  had  been  generally  lined  with  wood, 
but  Napoleon  permitted  the  citizens  to  enter,  and  tear  out  all  that  was  move- 
able in  these  horrid  cells.  Here  was  a  grated  window,  where  the  victims 
used  to  be  strangled.  They  were  seated  on  a  block  within,  and  a  rope,  fas- 
tened at  one  end,  passed  through  the  grate  and  round  the  neck,  and  out  again 
to  a  machine,  by  the  turning  of  which  the  head  and  shoulders  were  drawn 
up  to  the  grate,  and  the  poor  wretch  was  strangled  by  the  cord  that  passed 
around  his  neck. 

Another  place  was  fitted  up  for  decapitation,  like  the  guillotine.  The 
heavy  knife,  fixed  to  a  frame,  was  raised  by  a  machine  to  the  proper  distance, 
(the  victim  being  fixed  in  the  right  position),  when  it  fell  and  struck  the  head 
from  the  body,  and  a  trench  in  the  stone,  and  holes  made  for  the  purpose, 
conveyed  the  blood  into  the  waters  below.  All  this  was  done  by  night,  and 
with  the  utmost  privacy;  and  here  were  the  little  arches  in  the  wall,  where 
the  executioner  placed  his  lamp,  while  he  performed  his  bloody  work.  The 
whole  was  made  so  real,  and  brought  so  near,  by  the  associations  around  us, 
that  the  blood  was  almost  chilled  with  horror,  and  we  were  glad  to  leave 
those  gloomy  vaults  where  thousands  had  languished  out  years  of  solitary 
confinement,  or  perished  miserably  by  the  hands  of  the  executioner. 

Such  was  the  government  of  Venice,  up  to  the  time  when  the  French  revo- 
lution, backed  by  the  armies  of  the  republic,  came  down  upon  Italy,  like  a 
tremendous  tornado,  which  hurled  kings  from  their  thrones — broke  up  the 
foundations  of  nominal  republics — unsettled  the  feudal  aristocracies,  that  had 
for  fourteen  centuries  pressed  upon  the  social  system,  and,  what  all  must  ap- 
prove, unlocked  the  prison  doors,  and  let  the  prisoners  go  free.  This  was  lit- 
erally true  at  Venice  and  elsewhere  ,  we  saw  one  cell  from  which  a  prisoner 
was  liberated,  who  had  been  confined  fourteen  years.     Soon  after  his  libera- 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  '  57^ 

lion  he  became  blind,  from  tbe  effect  of  tbe  light  upon  eyes  that  had  foi 
fourteen  years  been  accustomed  only  to  the  darkness  of  a  dungeon." 

Under  the  French,  Venice  became  first  a  part  of  the  Italian  republic,  and 
later,  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy.  In  the  new  distribution  of  Europe,  made  by 
the  allied  powers  in  1814,  Venice,  with  the  whole  of  Lombardy,  fell  to  Aus- 
tria, under  whose  inauspicious  rule  it  is  retrograding  with  accelerated  rapidi- 
ty. Trieste  has  become  its  rival,  and  the  pet  city  of  Austria,  on  the 
Adriatic. 

Venice,  although  reduced  to  less  than  half  of  its  former  population,  is  still 
a  magnificent  city.  The  effect  is  greatly  heightened  by  its  situation  on  seventy 
islets ;  it  rises  from  the  waters,  with  its  numberless  domes,  towers,  spires, 
and  pinnacles,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  vast  city  floating  on  the  bosom 
of  the  ocean.  Such  a  thing  as  a  horse  or  a  carriage  is  unknown  in  this  city: 
gondolas  serve  for  the  one,  and  the  muscular  arms  of  oarsmen  for  the  other. 
One  hundred  and  forty-nine  canals  winding  through  it,  answer,  in  a  great 
measure,  for  streets,  and  up  to  the  very  threshold  of  the  palaces,  stand 
posts  to  fasten  the  gondolas,  as  elsewhere  they  stand  to  hitch  horses. 

More  than  three  hundred  bridges  of  marble  span  the  canals,  over  which 
pass  the  streets,  which  are  for  foot-passengers  only,  and  but  a  few  feet  wide; 
they  number  2,100,  and  everywhere  intersect  the  city.  The  grand  canal  is  a 
prominent  feature,  it  varys  from  ninety  to  180  feet  in  width,  and  winds 
through  the  city  like  an  S.  It  has  over  it  but  a  single  bridge,  that  of  the 
grand  Rialto.  The  row  of  magnificent  but  decaying  palaces,  which  extend 
along  this  canal,  with  their  light  arabesque  balconies,  and  casements,  their 
marble  porticoes,  and  peculiar  chimneys,  present  one  of  the  most  Sriisperb  and 
singular  scenes  in  the  world.  They  stand  in  majesty  of  ruin,  and  exhibit  the 
most  affecting  combinations  of  past  splendor  and  present  decay. 

The  gondolas  are  peculiar  to  Venice.  They  are  about  forty  feet  in  length, 
and  about  four  wide,  with  a  cabin  in  the  center  for  passengers.  Formerly, 
they  were  magnificently  ornamented  and  painted,  and  whole  fortunes  often 
spent  upon  them.  They  are  propelled  by  one,  and  sometimes  by  two  gon- 
doliers, and  with  unerring  skill  and  great  rapidity. 

In  the  era  of  the  city's  prosperity,  the  boatmen  were  in  the  habit  of  recit- 
ing, with  peculiar  melody,  the  poems  of  Ariosto,  Tasso,  and  other  favorite 
Italian  authors,  and  the  effect  at  a  dntance,  on  a  still  evening,  was  indescri- 
bably beautiful.     Now 

"  In  Venice,  Tasso's  echoes  are  no  more, 
And  silent  rows  the  songless  gondolier  ; 
Her  palaces  are  crumbling  to  the  shore, 
And  music  meets  not  always  now  the  ear." 

Within  the  city  are  several  squares  and  market-places :  of  these,  the  Square 
sf  St.  Mark  is  the  most  magnificent  public  place  in  Italy.  Upon  it  is  the 
Church  of  St.  Mark,  the  Imperial  Palace,  and  the  ancient  palace  of  the  Doge. 
The  Church  of  St.  Mark  is  one  of  the  most  gorgeous  edifices  ever  erected. 
Greek,  Saracenic,  snd  Gothic  architecture,  are  here  beautifully  blended,  and 
glitter  with  gold,  eems,  and  marble.  The  five  domes  which  swell  from  its 
37 


578  FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY. 

roof,  the  crowded  decorations  which  cover  its  porticoes,  give  it  the  appear* 
ance  of  an  Eastern  pagoda. 

The  interior  is  enriched  with  spoils  of  Constantinople  and  the  East,  the 
monuments  of  long  ages  of  glory.  On  the  portico  facing  the  piazza,  are  four 
bronze  horses,  the  admiration  of  all  strangers,  for  their  beauty  and  antiquity. 
Their  origin  is  involved  in  doubt,  but  it  is  generally  believed  they  were  sculp- 
tured by  Lysippas  the  Greek,  and  that  originally,  they  adorned  the  chariot 
of  the  sun  at  Corinth.  They  have  been  great  travelers.  When  the  Romans 
conquered  Greece,  they  were  carried  to  Rome  ;  again  they  were  transferred 
to  Constantinople,  when  that  city  became  the  seat  of  the  Roman  empire  ; 
when  the  Venetians  took  Constantinople,  they  were  carried  trophies  to  Ve- 
nice ;  when  Venice  was  conquered  by  the  French  in  1797,  they  were  trans- 
ported to  Paris,  and  then  restored  to  Venice  by  the  allied  powers,  after  the 
fall  of  Napoleon. 

The  ancient  palace  of  the  Doge  stands  south  of  the  Church  of  St.  Mark. 
It  is  a  splendidly  ornamented  building,  mainly  in  the  Saracenic  style,  and  con- 
tains several  hundred  apartments.  Its  interior  is  adorned  by  many  large  and 
elegant  paintings,  by  Titian,  Tintoretto,  Paul  Veronese,  and  other  eminent 
artists  of  the  Venetian  school.  An  unusual  number  of  them  are  historical 
paintings,  some  of  which,  of  enormous  size,  represent  the  great  events  of 
Venetian  history.  The  glory  of  Paradise,  in  the  library  room,  is  thirty  feet 
high,  and  seventy-four  feet  long,  occupying  all  one  side  of  the  apartment.  Il 
took  the  artist  seven  years  to  paint  it. 

The  fine  arts  in  these  countries  have  been,  to  a  great  extent,  prostituted  to 
the  gratification  of  the  depraved  tastes  of  mankind.  Exquisite  forms  of 
beauty  illustrate  the  licentious  loves  of  mythological  characters.  "  The  most 
sublime  efforts  of  these  arts — the  most  exquisite  productions  of  the  bright  ge- 
niuses who  have  excelled  in  them,  have  sanctioned  the  exhibitions  of  the 
strongest  and  most  corrupting  incentives  to  licentiousness  and  crime.  In  the 
almost  superhuman  exhibitions  of  the  art,  we  pardon  the  offense  against 
moral  purity,  and  while  we  admire,  the  more  triumphant  the  achievement, 
the  more  insinuating  the  poison,  which,  unperceived,  is  drunk  in  and  nour- 
ished by  the  mixture  of  sweets  that  disguises  it,  until  the  moral  sense  is 
blunted,  and  the  heart  is  seduced  by  the  fascinating  spell." 

In  the  Ducal  palace,  the  stranger  beholds  with  emotion,  the  halls  where 
the  Senate  and  the  dreadful  Council  of  Ten  formally  sat,  and  the  council- 
chamber  of  the  Inquisition.  The  small  hole  is  yet  there  by  the  side  of  the 
door,  into  which  informers  dropped  their  secret  accusations.  Woe  unto  the 
man  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  thus  reported  to  the  secret  tribunal  of  the 
State. 

Within  the  Square  of  St.  Mark,  are  two  lofty  towers,  one  belongs  to  the 
Church  of  St.  Luke,  and  stands  apart,  as  was  anciently  the  custom  ;  the 
other  is  the  "  tower  of  the  clock,"  with  the  town  clock  and  a  bell.  The  hours 
are  struck  with  immense  hammers,  in  the  hands  of  a  couple  of  large  bronze 
statues.  Near  the  center  of  the  tower  is  a  noble  gilt  image  of  the  Virgin 
and  the  infant  Jesus ;  an  open  gallery  is  in  front  of  these  figures,  and  on  each 
side  is  a  door.     At  a  certain  season  of  the  year,  for  fourteen  successive  davs, 


FISK'S  TRAVELS  IN  ITALY.  579 

at  the  striking  of  each  hour,  one  of  the  doors  flies  open,  and  out  moves  a  pro- 
cession of  statues,  directed  by  machinery.  First  appears  a  trumpeter,  who, 
as  he  comes  before  the  Virgin,  puts  his  trumpet  to  his  mouth ;  he  is  followed 
by  three  other  statues,  dressed  in  the  costume  of  eastern  sages,  one  of  them 
a  negro.  They  move  around  in  front  of  the  Virgin,  bow  to  her,  straighten 
up  and  then  disappear  through  the  other  door.  This  is  designated  as  the 
visit  of  the  Magi.  Every  day  throughout  the  year,  when  the  bell  rings  for  this 
purpose,  all  the  doves  in  Venice  flock  in  myriads  here  to  be  fed,  corn  being 
at  that  hour  thrown  regularly  to  them,  from  a  high  window.  This  custom 
originated  in  the  eccentric  benevolence  of  a  lady  who  bequeathed  a  perpetual 
legacy  for  this  object,  and  so  habituated  have  the  doves  become  to  it,  that  as 
the  hour  approaches,  they  gather  in  great  numbers,  on  the  house-tops,  in  the 
vicinity,  waiting  for  the  sound  of  the  bell  that  calls  them  to  dinner. 

Venice  has  fine  churches,  some  of  which  are  adorned  with  beautiful  scrip- 
tural paintings  of  the  Venetian  school.  In  some  of  these  churches  of  the 
city — which,  indeed,  is  very  common  elsewhere  in  Italy — is  a  representation 
of  the  Almighty, — "  An  attempt,"  says  Dr.  Fisk,  "  which  I  never  witness  with- 
out a  feeling  of  horror,  like  that  which  comes  over  me  in  hearing  the  name 
of  God  blasphemed.' ' 

The  Venetians  are  devoted  to  their  religion,  and  so  with  the  Italians  gene- 
rally; with  them  reverence  of  the  Madonna,  or  Virgin  Mary,  and  of  images  of 
her,  is  a  striking  feature.  In  various  parts  of  Venice,  along  the  sides  of  the  streets, 
little  shrines  are  fitted  up,  "  a  kind  of  Madonna  shops,"  where  images  of  the 
Virgin,  relics,  candles,  beads,  etc.,  are  sold.  In  each  of  these  is  an  image  of 
the  Virgin,  before  which,  night  and  day,  a  candle  is  ever  burning,  and  all  the 
people,  as  they  pass,  lift  their  hats,  cross  themselves,  utter  a  prayer,  and 
often  bow  in  adoration.  Not  unfrequently,  these  shrines  and  images  are 
placed  over  the  door  of  private  residences,  palaces,  etc.  From  the  great  at- 
tention given  to  the  image  of  the  Virgin,  it  seemed  to  our  traveler,  that  it 
was  done  as  a  kind  of  talisman,  to  ward  off  misfortune,  and  demoniacal  in- 
fluences. The  Italian,  on  passing  such,  fears  that  if  he  neglects  to  pay  his 
adoration,  bad  luck  will  ensue.  Our  traveler  saw  a  postilion,  one  moment 
utter  most  horrid  oaths,  and  the  next,  in  passing  the  image  of  the  Virgin, 
to  lift  his  hat  and  repeat  a  prayer. 

Our  traveler  left  Venice  with  the  poetic  feeling,  with  which  he  had  ever  re- 
garded her,  increased.  His  course  was  through  Padua,  Verona,  and  Milan, 
noted  for  its  cathedral,  scarcely  less  celebrated  than  that  of  St.  Peter  itself, 
of  the  purest  marble,  and  adorned  by  more  than  4,000  statues.  From  thence, 
passing  northwardly,  by  the  beautiful  lakes  Como  and  Maggiore,  he  struck 
the  highlands,  entered  the  Simplon  pass,  and  was  soon  among  the  snow- clad 
peaks  of  the  Alps  of  Switzerland. 


A     F  E  W     DAYS 


IS 


POLAND 


VILLAGE    IN    POLAND.* 

Sketch  of  Poland — Characteristics  of  the  Poles— Polish  Jews — Passage  of  the  Niemen  by  the 
French— Invasion  and  Eetreat— Brutality  of  the  Custom  House  Officers— Captain  of  the 
Guard — his  Accomplishments — Field  of  Grokow — Description  of  the  Battle — Valor  of  the 
Poles — Tyranny  of  the  Grand  Duke  Constantine — the  Polish  Insurrection — Fall  of  War- 
saw— Warsaw — Sobieski — Field  of  Viola — Oppressions  of  the  Poles — Cracow — Tombs 
of  the  Polish  Monarchs — the  Mound  of  Kosciusko. 

Poland  was  once  a  large  country,  though  now  expunged  from  the  map  of 
Europe  ;  but  her  people,  in  their  character,  language,  and  national  feelings, 
are  still  Poles.  Its  surface  is  one  immense  unvaried  plain,  which  is  drained 
by  large,  long,  and  navigable  rivers. 

"  The  Poles  belong  to  the  Sclavonic  race,  which  occupies  nearly  the  whole 

*  The  engraving  represents  the  appearance  of  a  Polish  village  on  the  Great  Road  leading 
from  Warsaw  to  St.  Petersburg.  The  houses  are  constructed  of  wooden  framework,  the 
spaces  between  filled  with  clay,  and  the  roofs  thatched.  The  nearest  dwelling  is  that  of 
a  lodge  keeper,  as  is  shown  by  the  horns  of  an  antelope  over  the  door.  On  the  roofs  of 
each  house  are  forked  sticks  for  the  nests  of  storks — those  birds  of  good  omen.  In  thf 
back  ground  is  a  windmill,  an  important  stricture  in  a  flat  country  like  Poland. 
580 


A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND.  581 

extent  of  the  vast  plain  of  eastern  Europe.  They  have  emerged  more  than 
the  others  from  the  generally  rude  and  unimproved  state  which  characterizes 
this  race.  The  feudal  system,  broken  up  in  the  greater  part  of  western 
Europe,  exists  here  in  almost  undiminished  operation.  Society  consists  alto- 
gether of  two  distinct  and  distant  orders,  the  nobles  and  the  peasantry,  with- 
out any  intermediate  degrees.  The  nobles,  who  are  more  numerous  than  in 
any  other  country  in  Europe,  have  always,  in  the  eye  of  the  public,  formed 
the  people  of  Poland.  They  are  brave,  prompt,  frank,  hospitable,  and  gay. 
They  have  been  called  the  French  of  the  north,  and,  both  from  habits  and 
political  connection,  are  attached  to  that  nation.  On  the  contrary,  they  re- 
gard the  Germans  with  mingled  contempt  and  aversion,  calling  them  Niemlc, 
or  dumb,  in  contrast  with  their  own  fluency  and  loquacity.  Before  their  fall, 
their  neighbors  called  them  "  the  proud  Poles."  They  consider  it  the  deep- 
est disgrace  to  practice  any  profession,  even  law  or  medicine  ;  and,  in  case  of 
utmost  necessity,  even  prefer  the  plow.  The  luxury  of  modern  times,  and  the 
variations  in  the  price  of  grain,  have  very  generally  involved  them  in  pecuniary 
embarrassments,  and  placed  many  of  their  fortunes  in  the  hands  of  Jews. 
The  Polish  ladies  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty,  and  are  considered  also 
more  intelligent  and  agreeable  than  those  of  Russia.  The  peasantry  are  not 
absolute  slaves,  but  they  are  raised  little  above  that  degrading  condition  ;  an 
estate  being  usually  estimated  by  the  number  of  its  peasants. 

The  religion  of  Poland,  contrary  to  that  which  prevails  in  the  great  body 
of  Sclavonic  nations,  is  Roman  Catholic.  This  is,  perhaps,  one  main  cause 
of  higher  civilization ;  for  the  Catholic  religion  is  more  favorable  to  intelli- 
gence and  improvement,  than  that  of  the  Greek  church.  Preaching  has 
always  formed  an  essential  part  of  its  worship,  which  gives  it  a  decided  supe- 
riority over  a  system  which  excludes  that  mode -of  instruction,  and  deak 
merely  in  a  round  of  childish  ceremonies. 

Knowledge  has  made  greater  progress  in  Poland  than  in  any  other  of  the 
Sclavonic  nations.  In  the  brilliant  eras  of  Casimir  and  Sobieski,  she  produced 
men  eminent  in  science,  among  whom  we  distinguish  Copernicus,  the  disco- 
verer of  the  true  system  of  the  world.  A  very  poetical  spirit  animates  the 
Poles,  and  is  diffused  through  all  ranks.  The  peasant  sings  the  beauties  of 
rural  nature,  while  the  noble  bards  celebrate  the  fortunes  and  glories  of  their 
country.  Poland,  however,  within  the  last  two  centuries,  has  not  kept  pace 
with  the  rapid  strides  which  other  nations  have  taken  in  science  and  literature. 

The  amusements  and  mode  of  life  among  the  higher  ranks  are  chiefly 
copied  from  the  other  nations  of  Europe,  particularly  the  French.  The  Polish 
dances,  however,  are  strictly  national,  and  very  graceful.  That,  especially, 
called  the  Polonaise,  is  marked  by  a  slow  majesty  of  movement,  which  has 
been  remarked  as  worthy  of  a  nation  who  elected  their  kings.  The  Poles 
have  a  singular  manner  of  shaving  the  head,  leaving  only  a  tuft  of  hair  on 
the  crown,  and  mustachios  are  generally  worn." 

The  early  annals  of  Poland  are  obscure  and  uninteresting.  Just  before 
the  discovery  of  America,  Poland  became  one  of  the  most  powerful  mon- 
archies of  Europe,  and  its  martial  character  for  a  time  was  pre-eminent.  The 
exploits  of  Sigismund  and  Sobieski  hold  a  conspicuous  place  in  military  his 


582  A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND. 

tory ;  and  Poland,  for  two  centuries,  was  the  main  bulwark  of  Christendom 
against  the  alarming  progress  of  Turkish  invasion. 

"  The  decline  of  PolancLniay  be  dated  from  the  beginning  of  the  last  cen- 
tury, and  may  be  ascribed  partly  «to  the  improvement  and  augmented  influ- 
ence of  Russia  and  Prussia,  but  in  a  far  greater  degree  to  the  incurable 
defects  in  the  constitution  of  the  state.  The  nobles,  about  500,000  in  number, 
formed  the  nation  ;  the  rest  of  the  inhabitants  being  slaves,  incapable  of  ac- 
quiring any  property  in  land,  without  any  privileges,  and  sold,  like  cattle, 
with  the  estates  to  which  they  belonged.  After  the  extinction  of  the  princes 
of  the  Jagellon  line,  the  power  of  the  nobles  became  quite  illimitable  :  each 
of  them  might  aspire  to  the  throne,  the  sovereign  being  merely  the  first  citi- 
zen of  the  order.  Among  themselves  they  formed  a  perfect  democracy,  the 
poorest  being,  in  respect  to  privileges,  quite  on  a  level  with  the  most  opulent. 
They  were  authorized  to  maintain  troops  and  fortresses  ;  and  were  rather, 
indeed,  a  sort  of  independent  princes  than  the  subject  of  a  constitutional 
monarchy.  By  a  singular  absurdity,  any  one  noble  might,  by  interposing  his 
veto,  suspend  the  whole  deliberations  of  the  diet,  and  prevent  the  possibility 
of  their  coming  to  any  conclusion.  Hence  the  country  was  the  constant  the- 
ater of  intestine  commotion  ;  and  foreign  influence  and  corruption  had  un- 
bounded scope,  not  only  at  the  election  of  sovereigns,  but  in  the  whole  pro- 
ceedings of  the  diets.  How  much  soever  we  may  detest  the  means  by  which 
jt  was  effected,  no  one  can  regret  the  abolition  of  a  system  of  government 
which  combined  all  the  mischiefs  of  anarchy  without  its  stimulus  to  enterprise; 
which  made  every  landlord  a  petty  despot,  and  every  cultivator  a  slave. 

The  partition  of  Poland,  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  iniquitous  mea- 
sures which  have  disgraced  modern  times,  was  begun  in  1772,  by  Frederick 
II,  of  Prussia,  and  the  Empress  Catharine  II,  chiefly,  it  is  believed,  at  the 
suggestion  of  the  latter;  while  Austria  was  reluctantly  dragged  into  the 
league.  At  this  time,  however,  each  cut  off  only  a  corner,  to  round  their 
own  territories,  and  Poland  remained  still  extensive,  and  nearly  entire.  But 
nothing  was  done  to  repair  the  defects  in  the  constitution ;  and  the  weakness 
and  disunion  that  prevailed  left  the  country  as  open  as  ever  to  foreign  aggres- 
sion. In  1792,  the  three  powers  again  joined,  and  made  a  fresh  partition, 
which  reduced  Poland  to  little  more  than  half  her  original  dimensions.  She 
now  roused  herself,  and  made  a  glorious  effort  for  her  deliverance.  She  saw, 
and  endeavored,  though  too  late,  to  obviate  those  abuses  in  her  system  of  gov- 
ernment of  which  she  had  been  the  victim.  But  the  partitioning  powers  had 
gone  too  far  to  recede,  and  were  not  to  be  disappointed  of  their  prey.  The 
Poles,  under  their  hero  Kosciusko,  made  the  most  gallant  efforts  to  preserve 
their  independence  and  their  newly  acquired  liberties.  Unfortunately,  how- 
ever, their  exertions  were  unavailing.  They  were  overpowered  by  the  ener- 
gies of  Suwarrow,  and  the  valor  and  number  of  his  troops.  The  Russian 
general  marched  direct  upon  the  capital,  and,  storming  the  fortress  of  Praga, 
to  which  the  patriots  had  retired  as  their  last  hold,  extinguished,  apparently 
forever,  the  rights  and  glories  of  Poland.  An  entire  and  final  partition  was 
then  made,  in  which  Russia  had  by  far  the  most  extensive  portion  ;  Prussia,  the 
best  situated  and  most  commercial;  Austria,  on  the  whole,  the  most  productive  '' 


A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND.  58:) 

The  political  existence  of  Poland  as  a  great  independent  kingdom,  was 
finally  extinguished,  by  this  last  partition.  That  part  of  Poland  which  was 
not  seized  by  the  three  great  powers,  became  known  as  the  Kingdom  of 
Poland,  and  though  left  nominally  independent,  was  annexed  to  the  Russian 
crown.  Its  population  was  about  four  millions,  and  its  area  somewhat  less 
than  that  of  our  own  Virginia.  This  relic  of  Poland  enjoyed  many  peculiar 
privileges.  The  Russian  emperor  was  crowned  at  Warsaw  as  king  of  Poland; 
the  diets  of  the  nobility  were  still  held,  in  which  freedom  of  speech  was  per- 
mitted, and  the  viceroy  was  a  native  Pole.  The  present  Czar,  Nicholas,  as 
well  as  his  predecessor,  swore  to  maintain  the  independence  and  rights  of 
Poland.  Since  the  unsuccessful  revolution  of  1830,  Poland  has  been  treated 
as  a  conquered  province,  and  its  nationality  entirely  annihilated.  She  is  now 
but  a  Russian  province,  her  situation  very  miserable,  her  inhabitants  singularly 
poor,  and  solely  engaged  in  agriculture. 


Late  one  dismal,  snowy  November  afternoon,  a  few  years  since,  an  Ameri- 
can gentleman,  Mr.  John  S.  Maxwell,  at  the  sound  of  the  horn,  sprang  into 
a  coach,  in  the  imperial  city  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  on  the  morning  of  the 
fourth  day  after,  arrived  at  Kovno,  a  frontier  town  of  Poland.* 

The  place  was  thronged  by  Jews,  who  comprise  a  quarter  of  the  popula- 
tion of  Poland,  and  swarming  about  the  villages  and  towns,  monopolize 
all  the  petty  traffic.  The  Polish  Jews  are  a  degraded,  despicable  race,  and 
live  most  wretchedly.  They  are  generally  the  keepers  of  the  inns  throughout 
the  country.  "  The  inn  is  generally  a  miserable  hovel,  communicating  with, 
or  a  room  partitioned  off  in  one  corner  of  a  large  shed,  serving  as  a  stable 
and  a  yard  for  vehicles.  The  entrance  is  under  a  low  porch  of  timber.  The 
floor  is  of  dirt.  The  furniture  consists  of  a  long  table,  or  two  or  three  small 
ones,  and  in  one  corner  a  bunch  of  straw,  or  sometimes  a  few  raised  boards 
formed  into  a  platform,  with  straw  spread  over  it  for  beds.  At  one  end  a 
narrow  door  leads  into  a  sort  of  hole  filled  with  dirty  beds,  old  women,  and 
ragged,  filthy  children.  Here,  the  Jew,  assisted  by  a  dirty-faced  Rachel, 
with  a  keen  and  anxious  look,  passes  his  whole  day  in  serving  out  to  thb 
meanest  customers  beer,  and  hay  and  corn  ;  and  in  wrangling  with,  and  ex- 
torting money  from,  intoxicated  peasants.  Since  the  conquest  of  Poland,  thb 
Jews  have  suffered  much  from  the  caprice  and  petty  tyranny  of  the  Russian  - 
officials,  and  the  seven  decrees  of  the  Emperor,  by  which  their  ancient  privi 
leges  have  been  greatly  curtailed." 

Beyond  Kovno,  our  traveler  came  to  the  Niemen.  Here  the  troops  of 
Napoleon,  near  half  a  million  in  number,  with  martial  music,  and  in  all  the 
splendor  of  military  array,  crossed  over  the  bridge  into  Russia,  during  three 
beautiful  days  in  June.  In  the  succeeding  December  a  miserable  remnant  of 
this  splendid  army  again  appeared  in  Kovno,  flying  before  the  Cossacks.  The 
heroic  Ney,  "  the  bravest  of  the  brave,"  with  a  few  veterans,  defended  the 
bridge,  to  allow  the  passage  of  the  sick  and  wounded.     Then,  standing  a 

*  This  article  is  abridged  from  "  The  Czar,  His  Court  and  People,"  with  interpolation* 
from  Stephens'  Incidents  of  Travel. 


584  A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND. 

few  moments  to  contemplate  the  scene,  he  fired  his  last  shot  at  the  enemy, 
then  cast  his  musket  into  the  river,  and  in  a  few  moments  more  was  lost  tc 
view  in  the  distant  forests.  The  Russian  dead  alone  exceeded  in  number  the 
host  of  the  invaders,  and  the  plains  through  which  they  marched  were 
whitened  by  the  skeletons  of  over  six  hundred  thousand  men  who  had 
perished  in  battle,  by  cold,  famine,  and  fatigue.  To  this  day,  the  skeletons 
of  the  French  may  be  seen  along  the  banks  of  the  Niemen,  where  the  storms 
have  blown  away  the  loose  sand,  and  exposed  the  blanched  bones  to  the  gaze 
of  the  passing  stranger. 

On  arriving  on  the  Polish  side  of  the  river,  Mr.  Maxwell  and  his  compa- 
nions were  examined  by  the  officers  of  the  customs,  and  a  young  Pole  of 
their  number  was  subjected  to  most  unprovoked  insult.  He  was  rigorously 
searched,  his  pocket-book  emptied,  and  the  money  examined,  under  the  pre- 
tense that  it  was  counterfeit.  He  remonstrated  with  them,  stating  that  he 
had  been  a  student  at  St.  Petersburg  for  a  long  while,  and  had  always  be- 
haved so  well  as  never  to  be  denounced  as  a  suspicious  person.  Upon  this, 
the  chief  officer  ordered  him  to  hold  his  tongue,  and  in  a  tone  of  savage  fero- 
city exclaimed,  "  I  do  now  denounce  you  as  a  most  suspicious  person,  and  I 
place  your  name  upon  the  list  of  those  who  are  the  most  dangerous 
subjects  of  his  majesty."  The  poor  fellow's  heart  was  full,  his  only  reply  was 
a  tear  which  fell  as  he  saw  his  name  entered  among  those  to  be  sacrificed  at 
the  first  suspicion  of  conspiracy  in  Poland. 

Not  any  public  house  being  here,  they  found  it  difficult  to  obtain  a  con- 
veyance to  a  distant  inn,  when  they  entered  the  mail  coach  for  Warsaw, 
where  they  had  among  their  fellow-passengers  an  old  Pole  who  had  served 
under  Napoleon,  and  a  Russian  Captain  of  the  Imperial  Guard.  The  latter 
related  some  interesting  anecdotes  of  the  bravery  of  the  Circassians,  and  «f 
the  beauty  of  the  Georgian  ladies,  and  in  a  secluded  post-house,  astonished 
Mr.  Maxwell  by  singing  "Jim  Crow,"  and  going  through  the  accompani- 
ment, "  wheel  about,  turn  about,  do  just  so  !"  This  accomplishment  he  had 
acquired  during  a  sojourn  in  England,  probably  from  witnessing  the  inimita- 
ble performances  of  Dan  Rice,  the  original  Jim  Crow  himself.  The  Captain, 
like  the  Russians  generally,  had,  until  a  short  time  previously,  entertained  the 
idea  that  the  Americans  were  all  negroes  ! 

Their  route  continued  through  dirty  villages,  inhabited  by  a  miserable  po- 
pulation. At  daybreak,  on  the  second  morning  after,  while  the  Russian 
officer  was  asleep,  the  postilion  played  upon  his  horn  a  prohibited  Polish 
air.  It  roused  the  old  Polish  soldier,  and  he  exchanged  significant  glances 
with  his  young  countryman,  until  the  last  strains  had  died  away.  They  were 
passing  the  bloody  field  of  Grokow,  where,  in  the  last  Polish  attempt  at  revo- 
lution, the.  overwhelming  forces  of  the  Russians  were  defeated  with  great 
slaughter.     Stephens,  the  traveler,  thus  describes  it : 

"  The  battle  of  Grokow,  the  greatest  in  Europe  since  that  of  Waterloo,  was 
fought  on  the  25th  of  February,  1831,  and  the  place  where  I  stood  com- 
manded a  view  of  the  whole  ground.  The  Russian  army  was  under  the 
command  of  Diebitsch,  and  consisted  of  one  hundred  and  forty-two  thousand 
infantry,  forty  thousand  cavalry,  and  three  hundred  and  twelve  pieces  of 


A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND.  <585 

cannon.  This  enormous  force  was  arranged  in  two  lines  of  combatants,  and 
a  third  of  reserve.  Its  left  wing,  between  Wavre,  and  the  marshes  of  the 
Vistula,  consisted  of  four  divisions  of  infantry  of  forty-seven  thousand  men, 
three  of  cavalry  of  ten  thousand  five  hundred,  and  one  hundred  and  eight 
pieces  of  cannon  ;  the  right  consisted  of  three  and  a  half  divisions  of  infantry 
of  thirty-one  thousand  men,  four  divisions  of  cavalry  of  fifteen  thousand 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  men,  and  fifty-two  pieces  of  cannon.  Upon  the  bor- 
ders of  the  great  forest  opposite  the  Forest  of  Elders,  conspicuous  from  where 
I  stood,  was  placed  the  reserve,  commanded  by  the  Grand-duke  Constantine. 
Against  this  immense  army  the  Poles  opposed  less  than  fifty  thousand  men 
and  one  hundred  pieces  of  cannon,  under  the  command  of  General  Skrzynecki. 

At  break  of  day  the  whole  force  of  the  Russian  right  wing,  with  a  terrible 
fire  of  fifty  pieces  of  artillery  and  columns  of  infantry,  charged  the  Polish  left, 
with  the  determination  of  carrying  it  by  a  single  and  overpowering  effort. 
The  Poles,  with  six  thousand  five  hundred  men  and  twelve  pieces  of  artillery, 
not  yielding  a  foot  of  ground,  and  knowing  they  could  hope  for  no  succour, 
resisted  this  attack  for  several  hours,  until  the  Russians  slackened  their  fire. 
About  ten  o'clock  the  plain  was  suddenly  covered  with  the  Russian  forces 
issuing  from  the  cover  of  the  forest,  seeming  one  undivided  mass  of  troops. 

Two  hundred  pieces  of  cannon,  posted  on  a  single  line,  commenced  a  fire 
which  made  the  earth  tremble,  and  was  more  terrible  than  the  oldest  officers, 
many  of  whom  had  fought  at  Marengo  and  Austerlitz,  had  ever  beheld.  The 
Russians  now  made  an  attack  upon  the  right  wing  ;  but  foiled  in  this  as  upon 
the  left,  Diebitsch  directed  the  strength  of  his  army  against  the  Forest  of 
Elders,  hoping  to  divide  the  Poles  into  two  parts.  One  hundred  and  twenty 
pieces  of  cannon  were  brought  to  bear  on  this  one  point,  and  fifty  battalions, 
instantly  pushed  to  the  attack,  kept  up  a  scene  of  massacre  unheard  of  in 
the  annals  of  war.  A  Polish  officer,  who  was  in  the  battle,  told  me  that  the 
small  streams  which  intersected  the  forest  were  so  choked  with  dead  that  the 
infantry  marched  directly  over  their  bodies.  The  heroic  Poles,  with  twelve 
battalions,  for  four  hours  defended  the  forest  against  the  tremendous  attack. 
Nine  times  they  were  driven  out,  and  nine  times,  by  a  series  of  admirably 
executed  maneuvers,  they  repulsed  the  Russians  with  immense  loss.  Bat- 
teries, now  concentrated  in  one  point,  were  in  a  moment  hurried  to  another, 
and  the  artillery  advanced  to  the  charge  like  cavalry,  sometimes  within  a 
hundred  feet  of  the  enemy's  columns,  and  there  opened  a  murderous  fire  of 
grape. 

At  three  o'clock,  the  generals,  many  of  whom  were  wounded,  and  most  of 
whom  had  their  horses  shot  under  them,  and  fought  on  foot  at  the  head  of 
their  divisions,  resolved  upon  a  retrograde  movement,  so  as  to  draw  the  Rus- 
sians upon  the  open  plain.  Diebitsch,  supposing  it  to  be  a  flight,  looked  over 
to  the  city  and  exclaimed,  "  Well,  then,  it  appears  that,  after  this  bloody  day, 
I  shall  take  tea  in  the  Belvidere  palace."  The  Russian  troops  debouched 
from  the  forest.  A  cloud  of  Russian  cavalry,  with  several  regiments  of  heavy 
cuirassiers  at  their  head,  advanced  to  the  attack.  Colonel  Pientka,  who  had 
kept  up  an  unremitting  fire  from  his  battery  for  five  hours,  seated  with  per- 
fect sangfroid  upon  a  disabled  piece  of  cannon,  remained  to  give  anothei 


586  A  FEW  DAYS  1N  POLAND. 

effective  fire  then  left  at  full  gallop  a  post  which  he  had  so  long  occupied 
under  the  terrible  fire  of  the  enemy's  artillery.  This  rapid  movement  of  his 
battery  animated  the  Russian  forces.  The  cavalry  advanced  on  a  trot  upon 
the  line  of  a  battery  of  rockets.  A  terrible  discharge  was  poured  into  their 
ranks,  and  the  horses,  galled  to  madness  by  the  flakes  of  fire,  became  wholly 
ungovernable,  and  broke  away,  spreading  disorder  in  every  direction;  the 
whole  body  swept  helplessly  along  the  fire  of  the  Polish  infantry,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  was  so  completely  annihilated,  that,  of  a  regiment  of  cuirassiers 
who  bore  inscribed  on  their  helmets  the  "  Invincibles,"  not  a  man  escaped. 
The  wreck  of  the  routed  cavalry,  pursued  by  the  lancers,  carried  along  in  its 
flight  the  columns  of  infantry  ;  a  general  retreat  commenced,  and  the  cry  of 
"  Poland  forever  !"  reached  the  walls  of  Warsaw  to  cheer  the  hearts  of  its 
anxious  inhabitants.  So  terrible  was  the  fire  of  that  day,  that  in  the  Polish 
army  there  was  not  a  single  general  or  staff  officer  who  had  not  his  horse 
killed  or  wounded  under  him  ;  two-thirds  of  the  officers,  and,  perhaps,  of  the 
soldiers,  had  their  clothes  pierced  with  balls,  and  more  than  a  tenth  part  of 
the  army  were  wounded.  Thirty  thousand  Russians  and  ten  thousand  Poles 
were  left  on  the  field  of  battle  ;  rank  upon  rank  lay  prostrate  on  the  earth, 
and  the  forest  of  Elders  was  so  strewed  with  bodies  that  it  received  from  that 
day  the  name  of  the  "  Forest  of  the  Dead."  The  Czar  heard  with  dismay, 
and  all  Europe  with  astonishment,  that  the  crosser  of  the  Balkan  had  been 
foiled  under  the  walls  of  Warsaw. 

All  the  day,  my  companion  said,  the  cannonading  was  terrible.  Crowds  of 
citizens,  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages,  were  assembled  on  the  spot  where  we 
stood,  earnestly  watching  the  progress  of  the  battle,  sharing  in  all  its  vicis- 
situdes, in  the  highest  state  of  excitement  as  the  clearing  up  of  the  columns 
of  smoke  showed  when  the  Russians  or  the  Poles  had  fled  ;  and  he  described 
the  entry  of  the  remnant  of  the  Polish  army  into  Warsaw  as  sublime  and  ter- 
rible. Their  hair  and  faces  were  begrimed  with  powder  and  blood ;  their 
armor  shattered  and  broken,  and  all,  even  dying  men,  were  singing  patriotic 
songs  ;  and  when  the  fourth  regiment,  among  whom  was  a  brother  of  my 
companion,  and  who  had  particularly  distinguished  themselves  in  the  battle, 
crossed  the  bridge  and  filed  slowly  through  the  streets,  their  lances  shivered 
against  the  cuirasses  of  the  guards,  their  helmets  broken,  their  faces  black 
and  spotted  with  blood,  some  erect,  some  tottering,  and  some  barely  able  to 
sustain  themselves  in  the  saddle,  above  the  stern  chorus  of  patriotic  songs 
rose  the  distracted  cries  of  mothers,  wives,  daughters  and  lovers,  seeking 
among  this  broken  band  for  forms  dearer  than  life,  many  of  whom  were  then 
sleeping  on  the  battle-field.  My  companion  told  me  that  he  was  then  a  lad 
of  seventeen,  and  had  begged  with  tears  to  be  allowed  to  accompany  his  bro- 
ther, but  his  widowed  mother  extorted  from  him  a  promise  that  he  would  not 
attempt  it.  All  day  he  had  stood  with  his  mother  on  the  very  spot  where  we 
did,  his  hand  in  hers,  which  she  grasped  convulsively,  as  every  peal  of  can- 
non seemed  the  knell  of  her  son  ;  and  when  the  lancers  passed,  she  sprang 
from  his  side  as  she  recognized  in  the  drooping  figure  of  an  officer,  with  his 
spear  broken  in  his  hand,  the  figure  of  her  gallant  boy.  He  was  then  reeling 
in  his  saddle,  his  eye  was  glazed  and  vacant,  and  he  died  that  night  in  their  arms 


A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND.  537 

The  tyranny  of  the  Grand-duke  Constantine,  the  imperial  viceroy,  added  to 
the  hatred  of  the  Russians,  which  is  the  birthright  of  every  Pole,  induced  the 
unhappy  revolution  of  1830.  Although,  on  the  death  of  Alexander,  Constan- 
tine waived  in  favor  of  his  brother  Nicholas  his  claim  to  the  throne  of  Russia, 
his  rule  in  Poland  shows  it  was  not  from  any  aversion  to  the  exercise  of 
power. 

When  Constantine  was  appointed  its  commander-in-chief  the  Polish  army 
ranked  with  the  bravest  in  Europe.  The  Polish  legions  under  Dombrowski 
and  Poniatowski  had  kept  alive  the  recollections  of  the  military  glory  of  their 
fallen  nation.  Almost  annihilated  by  the  bloody  battles  in  Italy,  where  they 
met  their  old  enemies  under  Suwarrow,  the  butcher  of  Praga,  the  proud  rem- 
nants reorganized,  and  formed  the  fifth  corps  of  the  "  grand  armee,"  distin- 
guished themselves  at  Smolensk,  Borodino,  Kalouga,  and  the  passage  of  the 
Berezina,  took  the  field  with  the  wreck  of  the  army  in  Saxony,  fought  at 
Dresden  and  Leipsic  ;  and  when  Napoleon  told  them,  brave  as  they  were, 
that  they  were  free  to  go  home  if  they  pleased,  they  scorned  to  desert  him  in 
his  waning  fortunes,  and  accompanied  him  to  Paris.  Alexander  promised 
an  amnesty,  and  they  marched  with  him  to  Warsaw.  Within  the  first  six 
months  many  officers  of  this  army  had  been  grossly  insulted  ;  an  eyewitness 
told  me  that  he  had  seen,  on  the  great  square  of  Warsaw,  the  high  sheriff* tear 
off  the  epaulettes  from  the  shoulders  of  an  officer,  and,  in  the  presence  of  the 
whole  troops,  strike  him  on  the  cheek  with  his  hand. 

It  would  perhaps  be  unjust  to  enumerate,  as  I  heard  them,  the  many 
causes  of  oppression  that  roused  to  revolt  the  slumbering  spirit  of  the  Poles; 
in  the  midst  of  which  the  French  revolution  threw  all  Poland  into  commo- 
tion. The  three  days  of  July  were  hailed  with  rapture  by  every  patriotic 
heart ;  the  new  revolutionary  movements  in  Belgium  cheered  them  on  ;  and 
eighty  young  men,  torn  from  the  altars  when  praying  for  the  souls  of  their  mur- 
dered countrymen,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  butchery  at  Praga,  thrilled  every 
heart,  and  hurried  the  hour  of  retribution.  The  enthusiasm  of  youth  struck 
the  first  blow.  A  band  of  ardent  young  men  of  the  first  families,  attended  the 
meetings  of  secret  patriotic  associations  ;  and  six  of  them,  belonging  to  the 
military  school,  suspecting  they  were  betrayed,  early  in  the  evening  went  to 
their  barracks,  and  proposed  to  their  comrades  a  plan  for  liberating  their 
country.  The  whole  corps,  not  excepting  one  sick  in  bed,  amounting  in  all 
to  about  a  hundred  and  fifty,  took  up  arms,  and  under  a  lieutenant  of  nine- 
teen attacked  the  palace  of  Constantine,  and  almost  secured  his  person.  The 
grand-duke  was  then  asleep  on  a  couch  in  a  room  opening  upon  a  corridor 
of  the  Belvidere  Palace,  and  roused  by  a  faithful  valet,  had  barely  time  to 
throw  a  robe  over  him  and  fly.  The  insurgents,  with  cries  of  vengeance, 
rushed  into  the  interior  of  the  palace,  driving  before  them  the  chief  of  the  city 
police,  and  the  aid-de-camp  of  the  grand-duke.  The  latter  had  the  presence 
of  mind  to  close  the  door  of  the  grand-duke's  apartment  before  he  was  pierced 
through  with  a  dozen  bayonets.  The  wife  of  the  grand-duke,  the  beautiful 
and  interesting  princess  for  whom  he  had  sacrificed  a  crown,  hearing  the 
struggle,  was  found  on  her  knees  offering  up  prayers  to  Hoaven  for  the  safety 
of  her  husband.     Constantine  escaped  by  a  back  window  ;   and  the  young 


58g  A  FEW  DAYS  IN"  POLAND. 

soldiers,  foiled  in  their  attempt,  marched  into  the  city,  and  passing  the  bar« 
racks  of  the  Russian  guards,  daringly  fired  a  volley  to  give  notice  of  theii 
coming.  Entering  the  city,  they  broke  open  the  prisons,  and  liberating  the 
state  prisoners,  burst  into  the  theaters,  crying  out,  "  Women,  home  !  men,  to 
arms !"  forced  the  arsenal,  and  in  two  hours,  40,000  men  were  under  arms. 
Very  soon  the  fourth  Polish  regiment  joined  them  ;  and  before  midnight  the 
remainder  of  the  Polish  troops  in  Warsaw,  declaring  that  their  children  were 
too  deeply  implicated  to  be  abandoned,  espoused  the  popular  cause.  Some 
excesses  were  committed  ;  and  General  Stanislaus  Potocki,  distinguished  in 
the  revolution  of  Kosciusko,  for  hesitating,  was  killed,  exclaiming  with  his 
last  breath  that  it  was  dreadful  to  die  by  the  hands  of  his  countrymen. 

Chlopicki,  the  comrade  of  Kosciusko,  was  proclaimed  dictator  by  an  im- 
mense multitude  in  the  Champ  de  Mars.  For  some  time  the  inhabitants  of 
Warsaw  were  in  a  delirium  ;  the  members  of  the  patriotic  association,  and 
citizens  of  all  classes,  assembled  every  day,  carrying  arms,  and  with  glasses 
in  their  hands,  in  the  saloon  of  the  theater,  and  at  a  celebrated  coffee-house, 
discussing  politics  and  singing  patriotic  songs.  In  the  theaters,  the  least 
allusion  brought  down  thanders  of  applause,  and  at  the  end  of  the  piece 
heralds  appeared  on  the  stage  waving  the  banners  of  the  dismembered 
provinces.  In  the  pit  they  sang  in  chorus  national  hymns ;  the  boxes 
answered  them  ;  and  sometimes  the  spectators  finished  by  scaling  the  stage, 
and  dancing  the  Mazurka  and  the  Cracoviak. 

The  fatal  issue  of  this  revolution  is  well  known.  The  Polish  nation  exerted 
and  exhausted  its  utmost  strength,  and  the  whole  force  of  the  colossal  empire 
was  brought  against  it,  and  in  spite  of  the  prodigies  of  valor,  crushed  it. 
The  moment,  the  only  moment,  when  gallant,  chivalric,  and  heroic  Poland 
could  have  been  saved  and  restored  to  its  rank  among  nations,  was  suffered 
to  pass  by,  and  no  one  came  to  her  aid.  The  minister  of  France  threw  out 
the  bold  boast  that  100,000  men  stood  ready  to  march  to  her  assistance  ;  but 
France  and  all  Europe  looked  on  and  saw  her  fall.  Her  expiring  diet  ordered 
a  levy  en  mass,  and  made  a  last  appeal  "  In  the  name  of  God;  in  the  name  of 
liberty;  in  the  name  of  kings  and  heroes  who  have  fought  for  religion  and  huma- 
nity; in  the  name  of  future  generations;  in  the  name  of  justice  and  the  deliver- 
ance of  Europe;"  but  her  dying  appeal  was  unheard.  Her  last  battle  was 
under  the  walls  of  Warsaw ;  and  then  she  would  not  have  fallen,  but  even  in 
Poland  there  were  traitors.  The  governor  of  Warsaw  blasted  the  laurels  won 
in  the  early  battles  of  the  revolution  by  the  blackest  treason.  He  ordered 
General  Romarino  to  withdraw  8,000  soldiers,  and  chase  the  Russians  beyond 
the  frontier  at  Brecz.  While  he  was  gone,  the  Russians,  pressed  Warsaw  ;  he 
could  have  returned  in  time  to  save  it,  but  was  stopped  with  directions  not  to 
advance  until  further  orders.  In  the  meantime  Warsaw  fell,  with  the  curse 
of  every  Pole  upon  the  head  of  its  governor.  The  traitor  now  lives  inglori- 
ously  in  Russia,  disgraced  and  despised,  while  the  young  lieutenant  is  in 
unhappy  but  not  unhonored  exile  in  Siberia." 

Since  the  sad  termination  of  this  heroic  struggle,  the  Poles  have  been  sub- 
jected to  the  most  infamous  treatment  from  the  Russian  government,  her 
soldiery  and  police.     Even  the  infliction  of  the  knout  upon  women,  exposed 


A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND.  589 

naked  to  the  waist,  is  among  the  barbarities  of  every  day  occurrence.  In  a 
few  hours  after  passing  the  field  of  Grokow,  our  traveler  entered  Warsaw. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  city  is  imposing ;  it  stands  on  a  hill  of  con- 
siderable elevation,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Vistula.  The  houses  are  either 
of  stone  or  brick  stuccoed.  The  churches,  palaces  and  public  buildings 
are  showy,  some  of  them  magnificent.  Its  present  population  is  about 
150,000. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Warsaw,  is  the  chateau  of  Villanow,  the  favorite  resi 
dence  of  Sobieski.  It  was  erected  about  the  year  1690,  by  Turks  whom  he 
had  taken  prisoners  in  battle.  The  reign  of  Sobieski  is  the  most  splendid  in 
the  history  of  Poland. 

About  five  miles  from  Warsaw  is  the  field  of  Viola,  celebrated  as  the  place 
of  election  of  the  Kings  of  Poland.  It  was  formerly  surrounded  by  a  ditch 
with  three  gates.  In  the  center  were  two  large  temporary  buildings,  which 
were  occupied  on  these  occasions.  The  nobles  numbering  at  times  200,000, 
encamped  on  the  plain  with  their  principal  officers  in  front  on  horseback. 

"The  primate,  having  declared  the  names  of  the  candidates,  kneeled  down 
and  chanted  a  hymn  ;  and  then,  mounting  on  horseback,  went  round  the 
plain  and  collected  the  votes,  the  nobles  not  voting  individually,  but  each 
palatinate  in  a  body.  It  was  necessary  that  the  election  should  be  unani- 
mous, and  a  single  nobleman  peremptorily  stopped  the  election  of  Ladislaus 
VII.  Being  asked  what  objection  he  had  to  him,  he  answered,  V  None  at 
all ;  but  I  will  not  suffer  him  to  be  king."  After  being  by  some  means 
brought  over,  he  g;ave  the  king  as  the  reason  for  his  opposition,  "  I  had  a 
mind  to  see  whether  our  liberty  was  still  in  being  or  not.  I  am  satisfied  that 
it  is,  and  your  majesty  shall  not  have  a  better  subject  than  myself."  If  the 
palatinates  agreed,  the  primate  asked  again,  and  yet  a  third  time,  if  all  were 
satisfied ;  and  after  a  general  approbation,  three  times  proclaimed  the  king  ; 
and  the  grand-marshal  of  the  crown  repeated  the  proclamation  three  times 
at  the  gates  of  the  camp.  It  was  the  exercise  of  this  high  privilege  of 
electing  their  own  king  which  created  and  sustained  the  lofty  bearing  of  the 
polish  nobles,  inducing  the  proud  boast  which,  in  a  moment  of  extremity,  an 
intrepid  band  made  to  their  king,  "What  hast  thou  to  fear  with  2000 
lances?  If  the  sky  should  fall,  we  would  keep  it  up  with  their  points." 
But,  unhappily,  although  the  exercise  of  this  privilege  was  confined  only 
to  the  nobles,  the  election  of  a  king  often  exhibited  a  worse  picture  than  all 
the  evils  of  universal  suffrage  with  us.  The  throne  was  open  to  the  whole 
world  ;  the  nobles  were  split  into  contending  factions  ;  foreign  gold  found  its 
way  among  them  ;  and  sometimes  they  deliberated  under  the  bayonets  of 
foreign  troops.  Warsaw  and  its  environs  were  a  scene  of  violence  and  con- 
fusion, and  sometimes  the  field  of  Viola  was  stained  with  blood.  Still  no 
man  can  ride  over  that  plain  without  recurring  to  the  glorious  hour  when 
Sobieski,  covered  with  laurels  won  in  fighting  the  battles  of  his  country, 
amid  the  roar  of  cannon,  and  the  loud  acclamations  of  the  senate,  the  nobles, 
and  the  army,  was  hailed  the  chosen  king  of  a  free  people." 

Poland  is  now  reaping  the  penalty  of  a  long  career  of  disorder,  and  per- 
haps is  lost  forever.     Springing  from  the  same  stock  as  the  Russians,  theii 


590  A  FEW  DAYS  IN  POLAND. 

long  wars  for  cen curies,  were  marked  with  that  vindictiveness  that  always 
characterizes  wars  between  kindred  races.  Now  crushed  under  the  foot  of 
iier  old  enemy,  her  only  alternative  seems  to  be  complete  amalgamation,  or 
perpetual  war.  In  secret  her  population  lament  their  woes.  The  Polish 
youth,  ere  they  open  into  manhood  are  continually  detected  in  conspiracy,  or 
continually  denounced  by  secret  spies,  and  are  sent  in  numbers  to  the  mines, 
or  forced  into  the  army.     Such  is  the  fate  of  Poland. 

From  Warsaw,  Mr.  Maxwell  proceeded  to  Cracow,  distant  about  one 
hundred  miles,  and  famous  as  being  the  ancient  capital,  where,  "  in  sullen 
and  decayed  magnificence,  stands  the  royal  residence  of  the  old  kings  of 
Poland."  For  a  thousand  years,  this  was  the  cradle,  the  stronghold,  and 
the  cemetery  of  the  old  monarchs.  Its  narrow,  winding  streets,  the  quaint 
architecture  of  its  churches  and  houses,  evince  that  it  is  a  town  of  the 
middle  ages,  and  everything  around  proclaims  the  former  greatness,  and  the 
present  misery  of  Poland. 

Mr.  Maxwell  visited  the  old  palace,  and  passed  into  its  cathedral  where 
the  sacristan  pointed  to  the  burial  places  of  the  chieftains  of  the  more 
glorious  days  of  Poland.  Here,  is  the  stage  of  solid  brass,  where  the  Polish 
kings  were  crowned — the  shrine  of  the  good  Stanislaus,  the  Patron  saint  of 
Poland — the  tomb  of  Casimir  the  Great — the  sarcophagus  of  Sobieski,  the 
savior  of  Christendom  from  the  Turks — the  tomb  of  the  gallant  Poniatowsky, 
the  nephew  of  the  last  king  of  Poland,  and  who  at  the  head  of  his  heroic 
Poles,  perished  in  the  fatal  battle  of  Leipsic,  and  lastly  the  tomb  of  Kosci- 
usko, the  friend  of  Washington. 

The  morning  previous  to  his  departure  from  Cracow,  Mr.  Maxwell  visited 
the  mound  of  Kosciusko,  standing  upon  a  hill  a  few  miles  distant  from  the 
town.  The  citizens  were  employed  four  years  in  its  construction.  From  its 
summit  is  seen  the  whole  surrounding  country ;  the  spires  of  Cracow  ;  the 
towers  of  the  old  palace  rising  upon  the  rock  of  Wawell  like  the  castle  over 
Edinburgh ;  the  Vistula  winding  away  among  the  valleys,  and  the  distant 
ranges  of  the  Carpathians  presenting  a  most  enchanting  prospect.  "  The 
eye  wanders,"  says  Mr.  Maxwell,  "  through  scenes  which  have  witnessed 
many  of  the  romantic  and  mysterious  events  connected  with  the  rise  and 
progress,  the  decline  and  fall,  of  Poland.  Could  there  have  been  a  better 
monument  to  her  last  hero,  than  this  composed  of  earth,  brought  from  all 
the  battlefields,  and  erected  by  the  citizens,  in  the  midst  of  so  many  great 
and  glorious  associations  ?  Of  all  the  places  we  had  visited  in  our  wander- 
ings, we  had  not  borne  away  a  single  souvenir,  but  from  among  the  wild  grass 
that  grew  luxuriantly  upon  the  mound  of  Kosciusko,  we  plucked  a  little 
flower,  the  last  of  autumn,  to  take  with  us  as  a  memento  of  the  patriot  of 
Poland." 


LYNCH'S    EXPEDITION 


TO    THE 


DEAD    SEA 


DESCENDING    THE    JORDAN. 


Curiosity  respecting  the  Dead  Sea— Departure  of  the  Expedition— St.  Jean  D' Acre— The 
Escort— Overland  March— Tiberias— Sea  6f  Galilee— Scriptural  Legends— Birthplace  of 
Mary  Magdalene— Condition  of  the  Jews  in  Palestine— Description  of  the  Jordan— Descent 
of  the  Eiver— the  Fellahin— the  Pilgrims— the  Dead  Sea— Salt  Mountain  of  Sodom— Cliffs 
of  Moab— Survey  of  the  Dead  Sea— its  Awful  Desolation— the  Sirocco— Sufferings  of  the 
Party— Sad  Fate  of  Previous  Explorers— Confirmation  of  the  Scriptural  Account  of  the 
Destruction  of  the  Cities  of  the  Plain — Eeturn  of  the  Expedition. 

For  thousands  of  years,  sacred  and  profane  history  have  preserved  the 
traditions  connected  with  the  destruction  of  the  Cities  of  the  Plain,  which  in 
all  their  beauty  and  loveliness  once  occupied  the  spot,  where  now,  in  gloom 
and  desolation,  roll  the  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

The  peculiar  character  and  position  of  this  singular  body  of  water,  have 
attracted  the  attention,  and  excited  the  curiosity  of  learned  men  of  both  an- 
cient and  modern  times,  and  repeated  efforts  have  been  made  to  ascertain  in 
what  manner  the  judgment  of  the  Almighty  was  executed  upon  the  devoted 
cities.  By  the  examinations  of  successive  travelers,  much  light  has  been 
thrown  upon  the  subject ;  but  no  accurate  survey  of  the  lake  was  ever  made 
until  the  successful  attempt  of  Lieut.  Lynch,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy 

591 


592  LYNOH'S  EXPEDITION. 

In  the  spring  of  1847,  the  project  of  conducting  an  expedition  to  survey 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  explore  the  river  Jordan,  suggested  itself  to  Lieut.  Lynch. 
He  thereupon  offered  his  services  to  government,  and  received  orders  to  make 
the  necessary  preparations.  On  the  26th  of  November  following,  all  things 
being  in  readiness,  the  U.  S.  storeship  Supply,  with  the  members  of  the  ex- 
pedition, sailed  from  New  York,  and  on  the  16th  of  February  arrived  at 
Smyrna,  from  which  point,  Lieut.  Lynch  proceeded  in  person  to  Constanti- 
nople, to  obtain  permission  of  the  Sultan  to  pass  through  his  dominions  in 
Syria  to  the  Dead  Sea.  This  was  cheerfully  given,  and  having  rejoined  his 
party,  the  Supply  weighed  anchor,  bound  for  St.  Jean  D'Acre,  where  they 
were  to  disembark.  This,  now  an  insignificant  place,  is  famous  in  the  annals 
of  the  crusades,  as  the  scene  of  the  chivalrous  exploits  of  the  Lion-Hearted 
Richard,  and  his  gallant  knights. 

About  the  last  of  March,  the  Supply  anchored  before  the  walled  village  of 
Haifa,  behind  which  rises  Mt.  Carmel,  to  the  height  of  1,800  feet;  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  bay,  sixteen  miles  distant,  stands  St.  Jean  D'Acre.  Far  to 
the  east,  stretches  the  plain  of  Jezrael,  the  ancient  Megiddo,  so  often  dyed 
with  the  blood  of  the  warring  hosts,  who  have  here  contended  for  victory  ; 
while  to  the  south,  lies  the  lovely  valley  of  Sharon,  inclosed  between  the 
hills  of  Samaria  and  Galilee. 

"  The  first  thing  in  Syria,"  says  Lieut.  Lynch,  "  which  strikes  a  visitor 
from  the  western  world,  is  the  absence  of  forest-trees.  Except  the  orchards, 
the  mountains  and-  the  plains  are  unrelieved  surfaces  of  dull  brown  and 
green.  No  towering  oaks,  no  symmetrical  poplars,  relieve  the  monotony  of 
the  scene.  The  sun  must  surely  be  the  monarch  of  this  clime,  for  outside 
the  flat,  mud-roofed,  cube-like  houses,  there  is  no  shelter  from  his  fiery 
beams. " 

At  Haifa,  the  exploring  party,  consisting  of  Lieuts.  Lynch  and  Dale, 
Passed  Midshipman  Aulick,  and  eleven  others,  petty  officers  and  seamen, 
landed,  and  encamped  with  their  baggage  and  equipment ;  their  vessel  then 
sailed  for  Jaffa,  the  ancient  Joppa,  the  seaport  of  Jerusalem.  At  Acre,  they 
procured  as  an  escort,  fifteen  Arabian  Bedouins,  well  armed  and  headed  by 
the  Sheriff  Hazza,  and  Akll  Aga  el  Hasse,  a  powerful  border  sheikh.  The 
sheriff  was  a  fine  old  Arab  nobleman,  small,  but  wiry  and  active,  with  a  dark 
complexion,  and  intelligent  countenance.  Akll  was  a  noble  specimen  of  the 
Arabian  Bedouin,  with  a  form  indicating  great  elegance,  combined  with 
strength.  The  feminine  appearance  of  his  soft  olive  complexion,  was  re- 
lieved by  a  dark  flashing  eye,  and  a  swelling  nostril,  indicating  the  soul  of  a 
warrior.  Attired  in  a  scarlet  cloth  pelisse,  richly  embroidered  with  gold — the 
masses  of  his  glossy  black  hair  half  concealed  beneath  his  crimson  tarbush, 
and  the  long  ataghan,  ready  to  be  seized  at  a  moment's  warning — he  pre- 
sented a  splendid  appearance. 

They  commenced  their  overland  march  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  of 
April,  to  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  about  thirty-five  miles  distant.  They  had 
brought  with  them  two  metallic  boats,  one  of  copper,  the  other  of  galvanized 
iron,  together  with  a  couple  of  trucks  or  drays,  and  sets  of  harness.  Each 
of  the  trucks  was  drawn  by  a  )air  of  camels ;  the  baggage  was  also  carried 


LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION.  593 

by  camels,  while  the  officers  and  men  were  mounted  on  fine  Arabian  horses. 
Having  crossed  the  beautiful  plain  of  Acre,  adorned  with  flowers  of  brilliant 
hues,  they  began  to  ascend  the  green  hills  beyond,  dotted  with  clumps  of  figs 
and  apricots,  and  groves  of  olives  and  pomegranates,  amidst  whose  branches 
innumerable  birds  caroled  forth  in  sweetest  song. 

At  the  little  village  of  Abelin,  they  were  joined  by  their  Arabian  escort, 
all  armed  with  spears  eighteen  feet  long,  some  of  them  tufted  with  beautiful 
ostrich  feathers.  When  in  motion,  the  united  party,  numbering  thirty-one, 
presented  an  imposing  appearance.  The  Americans,  on  their  fine  spirited 
horses — the  long  line  of  camels — the  carriages  and  boats,  each  of  which  bore 
its  tiny  flag  of  mingled  stripes  and  stars — the  Arabs  on  their  caracoling  studs, 
leading  the  head  of  the  column,  or  darting  over  the  distant  hills,  in  front,  in 
flank,  or  in  rear,  as  videttes — and  the  glistening  carabines,  and  flashing  spears 
— all  combined  to  produce  a  most  attractive  sight  ;  which  excited  the  curi- 
osity, and  called  forth  the  wondering  gaze  of  the  few  Fellahin  that  were  seen 
along  the  line  of  the  route.  Occasionally,  an  Arab  village  was  passed,  when 
many  a  dark  eye  scanned  the  equipments  of  the  cavalcade,  and  watched  its 
movements  as  it  wound  its  way  along  the  valleys  and  plains,  through  the 
rocky  defiles,  and  over  the  hilly  slopes. 

Usually,  the  villages  of  the  Arabian  peasantry  (Fellahin),  as  well  as  of 
the  more  aristocratic  class,  to  which  Akll  and  his  followers  belonged, — who 
think  it  beneath  their  dignity  to  cultivate  the  soil,  and  spend  most  of  their 
time  upon  horseback,  and  live  mainly  by  plunder  and  extortion — are  pictur- 
esquely situated,  near  the  summit  of  some  lofty  hill,  in  a  position  not  easily 
accessible  to  an  enemy.  Most  of  the  houses  are  of  but  one  story,  and  all  of 
a  cubical  shape,  built  of  uncemented  stones,  with  flat  mud  roofs,  sometimes 
surrounded  with  balustrades  two  or  three  feet  high,  of  twigs,  matted  closely 
together.  Inside  they  are,  most  commonly,  quite  mean  and  filthy,  the  floors 
of  mud,  and  the  rafters  begrimed  with  smoke  and  dirt.  A  pot  of  coffee  is 
generally  simmering  amidst  the  embers  in  the  center  of  the  floor,  but  its  de- 
licious aroma  is  entirely  lost  in  the  fumes  of  tobacco  proceeding  from  the 
chibouque  or  narghill,  or  the  odor  of  burning  camel's  dung,  which  constitutes 
the  only  fuel  used  by  the  Arab,  that  impregnates  everything,  and  taints  the 
atmosphere  for  miles  around.  Each  house  has  a  dome-roofed  oven  near  it, 
made  of  mud,  in  which  the  family  bake  their  bread.  Hovels  for  sheltering 
the  favorite  horse  or  horses  of  the  Arabs  are  occasionally  seen  ;  but  the  same 
roof  more  usually  covers  alike  master  and  steed. 

Soon  after  leaving  Abelin  the  expediton  crossed  the  ridge  which  bounds  ihe 
plain,  sloping  down  to  the  Syrian  coast,  and  entered  and  encamped  for  the 
night  in  a  grassy  ravine.  The  next  day,  the  5th  instant,  they  crossed  several 
ridges,  in  places  so  abrupt  they  were  obliged  to  unharness  their  camels  from 
the  drays,  and  let  the  latter  down  by  ropes.  The  day  succeeding  their  route 
was  through  a  rich  undulating  country,  partially  cultivated  in  uninclosed 
fields  of  beans,  wheat,  barley,  mullet,  with  patches  of  watermelons  pumpkins 
and  cucumbers.  Here  and  there  were  interspersed  beautiful  groves  in  full 
blossom.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  glimpses  of  the  sea  of  Galilee  were 
obtained,  and  the  Bashan  mountains,  stretching  like  a  blue  wall  across  its 
38 


594  LUNCH'S  EXPEDITION. 

distant  shore.  Descending  a  number  of  difficult  precipitous  valleys,  thej 
came  out  upon  the  Jerusalem  and  Damascus  road,  and  in  a  few  hours  more 
were  in  the  ancient  city  of  Tiberias. 

The  sea  of  Galilee,  or  lake  of  Genesareth,  is  about  sixteen  miles  long,  and 
five  wide,  and  is  but  an  expansion  of  the  river  Jordan.  On  the  east  it 
is  bounded  by  abrupt  mountains,  on  the  west  the  land  slopes  gradually  up- 
ward. Its  aspect  is  usually  cheerless  and  monotonous,  and  a  sail  or  boat  is 
seldom  or  never  seen  to  dot  its  surface.  Occasionally  squalls  issue  from  the 
ravines,  like  that  which  was  here  instantly  hushed  by  the  simple  command  of 
our  Savior  "  Peace — be  still  !" 

"  In  itself  the  sea  of  Galilee  is  by  no  means  a  striking  feature  in  the 
scenery  of  Palestine  ;  but  there  is  scarce  a  mountain  or  a  rock,  a  town  or  a 
ruin,  a  tree  or  a  shrub  along  its  shores,  but  is  vocal  with  its  scriptural  legend. 
In  the  city  of  Capernaum  dwelt  Jesus  himself.  On  its  verdant  banks,  fringed 
with  the  scarlet  anemone,  the  yellow  marigold,  and  the  pink  oleander,  he 
called  his  disciples,  and  made  them  "  fishers  of  men."  Here  is  the  Mount  of 
Beatitudes,  upon  whose  summit  he  delivered  that  noble  sermon,  which  con- 
tains the  whole  duty  of  man.  Here  he  performed  the  miracle  of  the  loaves 
and  fishes — here  he  healed  the  sick  and  cleansed  the  diseased — and  here  he 
preached  the  gospel  of  mercy  and  love.  In  yonder  field,  now  covered  with 
the  growing  corn,  the  famishing  disciples  fed  themselves  on  the  sabbath  day; 
and  on  that  tufted  hillock  stood  their  master  after  his  glorious  triumph  over 
death  and  the  grave,  when  he  bade  them  cast  their  net  and  they  should 
find." 

A  little  north  of  Tiberias  is  the  miserable  village  of  Mejdel,  the  birthplace 
of  Mary  Magdalene,  which,  with  Tiberias,  is  the  only  place  on  the  lake  of 
interest,  not  in  ruins.  Tiberias  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  contains  about 
2,000  inhabitants,  about  half  of  whom  are  Mussulmen  and  the  remainder 
Jews.  It  is  a  dilapidated,  filthy  place,  and  vermin  are  so  abundant  that  it 
has  been  called  "the  paradise  of  fleas." 

The  condition  of  the  Jews  in  Tiberias  is  less  miserable  than  in  many  other 
towns  of  Palestine,  although  they  are  occasionally  subjected  to  severe  indig- 
nities from  the  Turkish  yoke.  It  is  held  in  peculiar  veneration  by  the  Jews, 
being  one  of  their  four  holy  cities.  The  advent  of  their  expected  Messiah,  it 
is  believed  by  them,  is  to  take  place  on  the  shores  of  the  lake  ;  and,  according 
to  their  traditions,  Jacob  was  a  resident  of  Tiberias.  It  was  anciently  a  seat 
of  Jewish  literature,  and  now  has  a  sanhedrim  of  seventy  rabbis,  who  are 
constantly  studying  the  talmud.  They  are  the  referees  to  whom  are  sub- 
mitted controverted  points  of  discipline  by  their  brethren  in  all  parts  of 
the  globe  ;  they  are  mainly  supported  by  contributions  of  European  Jews. 

The  Jordan  has  its  source  at  the  base  of  a  rock  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Her- 
mon,  and,  after  pursuing  a  crooked  and  rapid  course  of  over  forty  miles,  ex- 
pands into  the  sea  of  Galilee.  Its  valley  in  all  this  distance  is  covered  with 
luxuriant  vegetation ;  over  its  bottom  lands  spread  mulberry  orchards  and 
olive  groves ;  and  on  the  slopes  are  fields  of  barley,  wheat,  millet,  melon- 
patches,  with  beds  of  wild  flowers  of  fragrant  odor  and  brilliant  hues.  After 
leaving  the  sea  of  Galilee  it  turns  abruptly  to  the  right,  and  then  bending  tc 


LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION".  595 

the  south,  enters  the  narrow  valley  of  El  Ghor.  Thence  it  pursues  a  very 
crooked,  winding  course  to  the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  distant  in  a  right  line 
from  the  sea  of  Galilee  about  sixty  miles,  but,  by  the  windings  of  the  Jordan, 
nearly  two  hundred.  The  average  width  of  the  Ghor  valley  is  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile :  it  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  barren  mountains,  and  on 
the  opposite  side  by  a  series  of  hills,  worn  by  the  rains  into  tent-like  shapes, 
and  truncated  cones.  From  its  fountain  head  to  its  entrance  into  the  Dead 
Sea  the  river  descends  1,300  feet,  and  its  cascades  and  rapids  are  so  nume- 
rous as  to  seriously  obstruct  navigation.  For  the  last  twenty  miles  its  whole 
bed  seems  to  have  been  sunk  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  and  evidences  of 
volcanic  formation  abound. 

The  boats  having  been  launched  into  the  sea  of  Galilee,  on  the  10th  in- 
stant the  expedition  left  Tiberias,  part  going  by  land  with  the  loaded  camels, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream ;  while  Lieutenant  Lynch,  with  the  others, 
went  in  the  boats.  They  had  purchased  a  light  boat  at  Tiberias,  the  only 
one  on  the  sea  of  Galilee,  but  it  was  soon  dashed  to  pieces  among  the  cas- 
cades, some  of  which  were  fifteen  feet  fall.  They  were  frequently  obliged, 
while  descending  them,  to  lower  their  boats  by  ropes,  at  others,  by  skillful 
management  of  the  helm,  they  went  over  in  safety,  and  sometimes  all  sprang 
over  into  the  water,  except  one  or  two,  and  clinging  to  its  sides,  steadied  its 
descent  through  the  rapids. 

Near  the  sea  of  Galilee,  the  high  plains,  elevated  about  five  hundred  feet 
on  each  side  of  the  river  valley,  abound  in  fine  fields  of  grain  ;  further  south- 
ward they  are  wild  and  barren.  The  valley  itself  is  marked  by  a  line  of  the 
richest  verdure,  where  the  shrubbery  is  so  dense  as  to  occasionally  completely 
screen  the  stream  itself.  Innumerable  flowers  blossom  on. its  borders  among 
mingled  tufts  o*f  grass,  cane  and  reeds,  and  the  groves  echo  with  the  soft 
notes  of  the  bulbul. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea,  wandering  tribes  of  Arabs 
render  the  traveling  unsafe,  except  to  those  protected  by  a  strong  escort,  or 
who  previously  gained  the  favor  of  the  sheikhs  of  the  different  tribes. 

The  Fellahtn,  or  peasantry  of  the  country,  are  the  slaves  of  the  Arabs  and 
Turks,  and  are  a  miserable  race,  dwelling  in  filthy  cabins,  and  living  princi- 
pally on  boiled  rice,  which  they  scoop  up  and  eat  from  the  hollow  of  joined 
hands. 

Late  in  the  evening  of  the  17th  of  April,  they  arrived  at  the  Pilgrim's  Ford, 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  Dead  Sea,  and  within  sight  of  the  gloomy  mountains 
on  its  borders.  The  morrow  was  the  anniversary  of  the  baptism  of  our  Sa- 
vior. "At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,"  says  Lieutenant  Lynch,  "  we 
were  aroused  by  the  intelligence  that  the  pilgrims  were  coming.  Rising  in 
haste,  we  beheld  thousands  of  torch-lights,  with  a  dark  mass  beneath,  moving 
rapidly  over  the  hills.  Striking  our  tents  with  precipitation,  we  hurriedly 
removed  them  and  all  our  effects,  a  short  distance  to  the  left.  We  had 
scarce  finished,  when  they  were  upon  us.  Men,  women,  and  children, 
mounted  upon  camels,  horses,  mules,  and  donkeys,  rushed  impetuously 
toward  the  bank.  They  presented  the  appearance  of  fugitives  from  a  routed 
army.     Our  Arab  friends  here  stood  us  in  good  stead,  sticking  their  tufted 


596  LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION. 

spears  before  our  tents,  they  mounted  their  steeds,  and  formed  a  military 
cordon  round  us.  But  for  them  we  should  have  been  run  down,  and  most 
of  our  effects  trampled  upon,  scattered  and  lost.  Strange  that  we  should 
have  been  shielded  from  a  Christian  throng  by  wild  children  of  the  desert — 
Moslems  in  name,  but  pagans  in  reality.  Nothing  but  the  spears  and 
swarthy  faces  of  the  Arabs  saved  us.  I  had,  in  the  meantime,  sent  the 
boats  to  the  opposite  shore,  a  little  below  the  bathing-place,  as  well  to  be  out 
of  the  way  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  render  assistance,  should  any  of  the  crowd 
be  swept  down  by  the  current,  and  in  danger  of  drowning.  While  the  boats 
were  taking  their  position,  one  of  the  earlier  bathers  cried  out  that  it  was  a 
sacred  place ;  but  when  the  purpose  was  explained  to  him,  he  warmly 
thanked  us.  Moored  to  the  opposite  shore,  with  their  crews  in  them,  they 
presented  an  unusual  spectacle. 

"  The  party  which  had  disturbed  us  was  the  advanced  guard  of  the  great 
body  of  the  pilgrims.  At  five,  just  at  the  dawn  of  day,  the  last  made  its  ap- 
pearance, coming  over  the  crest  of  a  high  ridge,  in  one  tumultuous  and  eagei 
throng.  In  all  the  wild  haste  of  a  disorderly  route,  Copts  and  Russians 
Poles  and  Armenians,  Greeks  and  Syrians,  from  all  parts  of  Asia,  from 
Europe,  from  Africa,  and  fiom  far  distant  America,  on  they  came  ;  men,  wo- 
men, and  children,  of  every  age  and  hue,  and  in  every  variety  of  costume; 
talking,  screaming,  shouting,  in  almost  every  known  language  under  the  sun, 
Mounted  as  variously  as  those  who  had  preceded  them,  many  of  the  women 
and  children  were  suspended  in  baskets,  or  confined  in  cages  ;  and  with  their 
eyes  strained  toward  the  river,  heedless  of  all  intervening  obstacles,  they 
hurried  eagerly  forward,  and  dismounting  in  haste,  and  disrobing  with  pre- 
cipitation, rushed  down  the  bank  and  threw  themselves  into  the  stream. 

"  They  seemed  to  be  absorbed  by  one  impulsive  feeling*,  and  perfectly 
regardless  of  the  observation  of  others,  each  plunged  himself  or  was  dipped 
by  another,  three  times  below  the  surface  in  honor  of  the  Trinity  ;  and  then 
filled  a  bottle,  or  some  other  utensil  from  the  river.  The  bathing-dress  of 
many  of  the  pilgrims,  was  a  white  gown  with  a  black  cross  upon  it.  Most 
of  them,  as  soon  as  they  were  dressed,  cut  branches  of  willow,  and  bore 
them  away  as  memorials  of  their  visit.  In  an  houi  they  began  to  disappear; 
and  in  less  than  three  hours  the  trodden  surface  of  the  lately  crowded  bank 
reflected  no  human  shadow.  The  pageant  disappeared  as  rapidly  as  it  had 
approached,  and  left  to  us  once  more  the  silence  and  solitude  of  the  wilder- 
ness. It  was  like  a  dream,  an  immense  crowd  of  human  beings,  said  to  be 
8000,  but  I  thought  not  so  many,  had  passed  and  repassed  before  our  tents, 
and  left  not  a  vestige  behind  them." 

Toward  the  close  of  the  same  day,  they  reached  the  dreary  waste  of 
waters  that  form  the  Dead  Sea,  and  at  night  the  party  united  and  encamped 
on  its  western  shore,  where  they  established  their  dep6t.  On  the  20th,  they 
began  their  task  of  surveying  and  exploring  the  lake  ;  and  making  sound- 
ings from  shore  to  shore  at  half-mile  distances,  they  found,  as  they  proceeded 
toward  the  southern  end,  that  the  water  grew  shoaler  and  shoaler,  until  near 
the  termination  their  boats  grounded  in  six  inches  of  water,  and  they  could 
go  no  farther  in  that  direction. 


LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION.  597 

The  heat  was  intense,  the  rays  of  the  sun  pouring  down  into  this  narrow 
chasm  and  reflected  from  the  mountain  sides  was  almost  overpowering.  A 
coating  of  greasy  salt  completely  covered  the  party,  and  the  spray  dashing 
over  them  formed  an  incrustation  that  caused  their  hands  and  faces,  eyes, 
lips  and  nostrils,  to  smart  most  severely.  About  two  miles  from  the  southern 
end  of  the  lake,  at  the  base  of  the  salt  mountain  of  Sodom,  they  discovered  a 
pillar  of  salt,  about  forty  feet  in  height,  supposed  to  be  the  same  seen  by 
Josephus,  who  states  it  to  be  the  very  one  into  which  Lot's  wife  was  trans- 
formed. "This  part  of  the  lake,"  says  Lieut.  Lynch,  "was  a  scene  of  un- 
mitigated desolation.  On  one  side  rugged  and  worn  was  the  salt  mountain 
of  Usdum  or  Sodom,  with  its  conspicuous  pillar,  which  reminded  us  at  least 
of  the  catastrophe  of  the  plain ;  on  the  other,  were  the  lofty  and  barren  cliffs 
of  Moab,  in  one  of  the  caves  of  which  the  fugitive  Lot  found  shelter.  To 
the  south  was  an  extensive  flat,  intersected  by  sluggish  drains,  with  the  high 
hills  of  Edom  semi-girdling  the  salt  plain,  where  the  Israelites  repeatedly 
overthrew  their  enemies,  and  to  the  north  was  the  calm  and  motionless  sea, 
curtained  with  a  purple  mist,  while  many  fathoms  deep,  in  the  slimy  mud 
beneath  it,  lay  imbedded  the  ruins  of  the  ill-fated  cities  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah. 
The  glare  of  light  was  blinding  to  the  eye,  and  the  atmosphere  difficult  of 
respiration.  No  bird  fanned  with  its  wing  the  attenuated  air  through  which 
the  sun  poured  his  scorching  rays  upon  the  mysterious  element  on  which  we 
floated,  and  which  alone  of  all  the  works  of  its  Maker,  contained  no  living 
thing  within  it." 

Their  sufferings  from  the  intense  heat,  while  engaged  in  the  survey,  were 
very  great.  One  afternoon  a  hot  blistering  hurricane  struck  them  and  for 
some  moments  they  feared  being  driven  out  to  sea.  The  men,  closing  their 
eyes  to  shield  them  from  the  fiery  blast,  were  obliged  to  pull  with  all  their 
might  to  stem  the  rising  waves,  and  after  an  hour  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
shore  completely  exhausted.  The  eyelids  of  Lieut.  Lynch  were  blistered  by 
the  hot  rain,  he  being  unable  to  protect  them  from  the  necessity  of  steering 
the  boat.  One  mounted  spectacles  to  protect  his  eyes,  but  the  metal  became 
so  heated  that  he  could  not  keep  them  on.  Soon  after  landing  the  wind  in- 
creased to  a  tempest ;  the  two  extremities  and  the  western  shore  of  the  sea 
were  curtained  by  a  mist,  on  one  side  of  a  purple  hue,  and  on  the  other  of  a 
yellow  tinge ;  and  the  red  and  rayless  sun,  in  the  bronzed  clouds,  had  the  ap- 
pearance it  presents  when  looked  upon  through  a  smoked  glass. 

"  Thus,"  says  Lieut.  Lynch,  "  may  the  heavens  have  appeared  just  before 
the  Almighty,  in  his  wrath,  rained  down  fire  upon  the  Cities  of  the  Plain. 
Behind  were  the  rugged  crags  of  the  mountains  of  Moab,  the  land  of  incest, 
enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  dust,  swept  by  the  simoon  from  the  great  desert  of 
Arabia. 

"  The  heat  rather  increased  after  the  sun  went  down,  it  was  more  like  the 
blast  of  a  furnace  than  living  air.  In  the  early  part  of  the  night,  there  was 
scarce  a  moment  that  some  one  was  not  at  the  water  breakers  ;  but  the  parch- 
ing thirst  could  not  be  allayed,  for  although  there  was  no  perceptible  perspi- 
ration, the  fluid  was  carried  off  as  fast  as  it  was  received  into  the  system. 
At  nine  o'clock  the  water  was  exhausted,  and  our  last  waking  thought  was 


598  LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION". 

water.  In  our  dismrbed  and  feverish  slumbers,  we  fancied  the  cool  beverage 
pouring  down  our  parched  and  burning  throats.  The  musquitoes,  as  if  theii 
stings  were  envenomed  by  the  heat,  tormented  us  almost  to  madness,  and  we 
spent  a  miserable  night. 

"We  had  spent  the  day  in  the  glare  of  a  Syrian  sun,  by  the  salt  mountain 
of  Usdum,  in  the  hot  blast  of  the  sirocco  and  were  now  bivouacked  under 
the  calcined  cliffs  of  Moab.  When  the  water  was  exhausted  we  threw  our- 
selves upon  the  ground — eyes  smarting,  skin  burning,  lips  and  tongue,  and 
throat  parched  and  dry — and  wrapped  the  first  garment  we  could  find  around 
our  heads  to  keep  off  the  stifling  blast ;  and  in  our  brief  and  broken  slum- 
bers drank  from  ideal  fountains.  Those  who  have  never  felt  thirst,  never 
suffered  in  a  simoon  in  the  wilderness,  or  been  far  off  at  sea,  with 
"  Water  everywhere, 
Nor  any  drop  to  drink," 

can  form  no  idea  of  our  sensations. " 

On  the  28th,  the  expedition  having  finished  their  surveys,  its  members  re- 
turned to  camp.  Lieut.  Lynch  spent  several  subsequent  days  in  cruising 
along  the  Arabian  or  eastern  shore,  and  in  visiting  the  localities  of  interest. 
On  the  5th  of  May,  they  completely  finished  their  explorations.  Frequently, 
while  performing  their  duties,  they  were  in  danger  of  attack  from  wild  Arabs, 
but  thanks  to  their  own  watchfulness,  and  the  fidelity  of  Akil  and  his  little 
band,  they  escaped  molestation. 

By  their  measurements,  the  lake  is  a  little  over  forty  miles  long,  and  averages 
about  eight  and  a  half  in  breadth.  The  southern  lake  is  much  the  smallest, 
being  only  about  one-third  of  the  size  of  the  other.  It  is  very  shallow,  and 
has  a  bottom  of  slime  and  mud.  It  is  the  most  desolate  part  of  the  Dead 
Sea,  and  is  doubtless  the  spot  upon  which  stood  the  ill-fated  cities.  No  boats 
had  ever  before  penetrated  its  waters.  Costigan,  and  Molyneaux,  two  gal- 
lant Europeans,  who  lost  their  lives  in  attempting  to  explore  the  Dead  Sea, 
came  no  farther  south  than  the  connecting  straits. 

Some  three  weeks  having  thus  been  spent  in  the  explorations  upon  and 
around  the  Dead  Sea,  Lieut.  Lynch  organized  a  leveling  party,  to  ascertain 
the  difference  of  level  between  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Mediterranean.  In  the 
face  of  numerous  difficulties,  the  task  was  accomplished,  after  twenty-three 
days  of  incessant  and  hazardous  labor.  By  their  measurments,  the  Dead 
Sea  was  ascertained  to  be  a  trifle  over  1,300  feet,  that  is,  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  below  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean. 

"  Lieut.  Lynch  had  great  reason  to  congratulate  himself  on  the  successful 
result  of  his  labors ;  for  the  work  was  one  not  only  of  toil,  exposure,  and 
suffering,  but  of  great  danger.  He  was  warned  by  the  fatal  results  which 
had  almost  invariably  attended  former  attempts  to  explore  these  waters,  that 
if  he  ventured  to  trust  himself  upon  them,  it  was  wholly  uncertain  if  he  ever 
would  return.  He  followed  in  a  track  which  had  led  all  his  predecessors  to 
destruction,  and  his  only  hope  of  safety  and  success,  was  in  superior  saga- 
city, forethought  in  the  formation  of  his  plans,  and  in  greater  energy,  cou- 
rage, and  endurance  in  their  execution.  The  result  proved  he  had  estimated 
correctly  the  resources  at  his  command." 


LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION.  599 

The  Dead  Se,i  is  more  salt,  and  more  dense  than  the  ocean,  and  the  waves- 
in  striking-  against  a  boat,  give  forth  a  dull,  leaden  sound.  The  water  is  sa 
buoyant,  that  it  is  difficult  for  a  person  to  dive,  or  to  keep  himself  down. 
"My  friend  and  fellow-traveler,  Mr.  Erskine,"  says  Mr.  Fisk,  "bathed  ii\ 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  found  the  water  extremely  buoyant.  I  could  not  make  up 
my  mind  to  the  experiment ;  but  I  tasted  the  water.  It  is  impossible  to  ex- 
press the  intensity  of  its  nauseousness,  when  taken  in  sufficient  quantity,  and 
retained  long  enough  to  act  upon  the  palate.  It  has  two  distinct  flavors  when 
first  tasted,  which  soon  unite  and  make  a  most  loathsome  compound.  The 
first  is  of  extremely  pungent  saltness,  and  capable  of  excoriating  the  palate. 
The  other  is  sheer  bitterness,  and  so  bitter,  that  it  seems  to  penetrate  the 
skin  of  the  mouth.  Though  I  took  no  more  than  about  half  a  wine-glassful 
in  my  mouth,  and  did  not  swallow  any,  yet  my  palate  was  saturated  with  it, 
and  the  sensation  remained  during  the  day." 

The  waters  of  this  dismal  lake  possess  petrifying  qualities,  and  the  stunted 
trees  upon  its  shores,  soon  die  from  its  spray.  It  has  no  outlet,  and  no  cool 
breezes  pass  over  it ;  but  the  burning  simoon  of  the  Arabian  desert,  occa- 
sionally disturbs  its  usually  silent  waters,  and  assists  the  evaporation,  which  is 
very  rapid.  A  fetid  odor  hangs  over  it,  which  arises  from  the  numerous  hot 
springs  on  its  shores.  The  atmosphere  bronzes  all  metallic  bodies  exposed  to 
it,  and  even  the  sides  of  the  neighboring  mountains  are  incrusted  with  salt. 
Over  its  southern  part  rests  a  hazy  cloud,  like  heated  vapor,  and  generally, 
(it  the  north,  a  thin  transparent  cloud,  tinged  with  purple. 

Various  and  idle  are  the  attributes  with  which  popular  credulity  has  in- 
vested this  lake,  among  which  are,  that  its  waters  are  poisonous,  and  its  at- 
mosphere fatal  to  life.  Lieut.  Lynch  gathered  some  specimens  of  the  osher, 
the  genuine  apple  of  Sodom,  which  is  beautiful  and  tempting  to  the  eye  ;  but 
vhen  bitten  into,  is  exceedingly  bitter,  and  fills  the  mouth  with  fiber  and  dust. 

The  Dead  Sea  is  bounded  by  lofty  and  arid  mountains.  On  the  west,  to 
I  he  height  of  over  one  thousand  feet,  rise  the  sterile  cliffs  of  Judea,  appear- 
ing in  some  places  as  if  scathed  with  fire,  at  others,  of  a  purple  color,  and 
elsewhere,  of  a  chalky  aspect.  Banks  of  impassable  sand,  and  ashes,  and 
sun-bleached  bowlders  lie  at  the  base  of  these  barren,  dreary  hills,  and  evi- 
dences of  volcanic  formation  abound. 

The  shores  of  the  lake  are  formed  of  mud-flats,  and  at  the  passages  of  the 
ravines  and  gorges,  sandy  plains,  which  support  a  scanty  vegetation,  alter- 
nate with  rocky  precipices,  and  strips  of  low  and  marshy  ground ;  these 
are  covered  with  sand,  gravel,  flinty  particles,  or  pebbles  of  bituminous  lime- 
stone. Salt  and  bitumen,  obtained  from  the  Dead  Sea,  are  important  articles 
of  commerce.  Sulphur  also  abounds,  and  indications  are  given  of  niter, 
gypsum,  and  alum. 

From  the  Dead  Sea  to  the  Red  Sea,  extends  the  sandy,  barren,  and  deso- 
late valley  of  Arabah,  the  southern  continuation  of  the  great  Jordan  gorge, 
which  in  its  northern  course  is  occupied  by  the  Jordan  river  and  the  Dead 
Sea.  An  idea  of  the  sense  of  desolation  which  comes  over  the  traveler, 
while  upon  the  Dead  Sea,  is  thus  well  given  in  an  extract  from  the  narrative 
of  Lieut.  Lynch  :    "A  light  air  from  t'ie  south  induced  me  to  abandon  the 


600  LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION. 

awning,  and  set  the  sail,  to  save  the  men  from  laboring  at  the  oars.  A  light 
tapping  of  the  ripples  at  the  bow,  and  a  faint  line  of  foam,  and  bubbles  at 
her  side,  were  the  only  indications  that  the  boat  was  in  motion.  The  other 
boat  was  a  mile  astern,  and  all  around  partook  of  the  stillness  of  death. 
The  weather  was  intensely  hot,  and  even  the  light  air  that  urged  us  almost 
insensibly  along,  had  something  oppressive  in  its  flaws  of  heat.  The  sky 
was  unclouded,  save  by  a  few  faint  cirri  in  the  north,  sweeping,  plume-like, 
as  if  the  sun  had  consumed  the  clouds,  and  the  light  wind  had  drifted  their 
ashes.  The  glitter  from  the  water,  with  its  multitude  of  reflections — for  each 
ripple  was  a  mirror — contributed  much  to  our  discomfort ;  yet  the  water  was 
not  transparent,  but  of  the  color  of  diluted  absinthe,  or  the  prevailing  tint  of 
a  Persian  opal.  The  sun,  we  felt,  was  glaring  upon  us,  but  the  eye  dare 
not  take  cognizance,  for  the  fierce  blaze  would  have  blighted  the  powers  of 
vision,  as  Semele  was  consumed  by  the  unvailed  divinity  of  Jove. 

"  The  black  chasms  and  rough  peaks,  embossed  with  grimness,  were 
around  and  above  us,  vailed  in  a  transparent  mist,  like  visible  air,  that  made 
them  seem  unreal, — and  1300  feet  below,  our  sounding-lead  had  struck  upon 
the  buried  plain  of  Siddim,  shrouded  in  slime  and  salt.  While  busied  with 
such  thoughts,  my  companions  had  yielded  to  the  oppressive  drowsiness,  and 
now  lay  before  me  in  every  attitude  of  a  sleep  that  had  more  of  stupor  in  it 
than  of  repose.  In  the  awful  aspect  which  this  sea  presented,  when  we  first 
beheld  it,  I  seemed  to  read  the  inscription  over  the  gates  of  Dante's  Inferno : 
— '  Ye  who  enter  here,  leave  hope  behind.1  Since  then,  habituated  to  mysterious 
appearances,  in  a  journey  so  replete  with  them,  and  accustomed  to  scenes  of 
deep  and  thrilling  interest,  at  every  step  of  our  progress  those  feelings  of 
awe  had  been  insensibly  lessened,  or  hushed  by  deep  interest  in  the  investi- 
gations we  had  pursued.  But  now,  as  I  sat  alone  in  my  wakefulness,  the 
feeling  of  awe  returned  ;  and  as  I  looked  upon  the  sleepers,  I  felt  '  the  hair 
of  my  flesh  stand  up,*  as  Job's  did,  when  *  a  spirit  passed  before  his  face ; ' 
for  to  my  disturbed  imagination,  there  was  something  fearful  in  the  expres- 
sien  of  their  inflamed  and  swollen  visages.  The  fierce  angel  of  disease 
seemed  hovering  over  them,  and  I  read  the  forerunner  of  his  presence  in 
their  flushed  and  feverish  sleep.  .  .  .  The  solitude,  the  scene,  my  own 
thoughts,  were  too  much ;  I  felt,  as  I  sat  thus  steering  the  drowsily-moving 
boat,  as  if  I  were  a  Charon,  ferrying  not  the  souls,  but  the  bodies  of  the  de- 
parted and  the  damned,  over  some  infernal  lake,  and  could  endure  it  no 
longer ;  but  breaking  from  my  listlessness,  ordered  the  sails  to  be  furled  and 
the  oars  resumed — action  seemed  better  than  such  unnatural  stupor." 

"History  and  tradition,  both  sacred  and  profane,  dating  back  for  thousands 
of  years,  concur  in  the  one  great  fact,  that  the  Dead  Sea,  or  the  Sea  of  the 
Plain,  covers  the  spot  once  occupied  by  the  guilty  cities."  .  .  Lieut.  Lynch 
remarks,  that  the  mountains  on  all  sides,  appear  much  older  than  the  sea, 
and  that  the  torrents,  particularly  those  pouring  into  the  upper  lake,  plunge 
down  abruptly.  His  inference  from  the  facts  and  appearances  before  him  wks, 
that  the  entire  chasm  was  a  sunken  plain,  and  that  the  depression  was  great- 
est at  the  northern  end.  In  summing  up  the  conclusions  at  whicn  he  arrived, 
he  says  : — "The  inference  from  the  Bible,  that  this  entire  chasm  was  a  plain* 


LYNCH'S  EXPEDITION.  601 

sunk  and  '  overwhelmed'  by  the  wrath  of  God,  seems  to  be  sustained  by  the 
extraordinary  character  of  our  soundings.  The  bottom  of  this  sea  consists 
of  two  submerged  plains,  an  elevated  and  a  depressed  one ;  the  last  aver- 
aging thirteen,  and  the  former  about  thirteen  hundred  feet  below  the  surface. 
Through  the  northern  and  largest,  and  deepest  one,  in  a  line  corresponding 
with  the  bed  of  the  Jordan,  is  a  ravine,  which  again  seems  to  correspond 
with  the  Wady-el-Jeib,  or  ravine  within  a  ravine,  at  the  south  end  of  the  sea. 

Between  the  Jabok  and  this  sea  we  unexpectedly  found  a  sudden  break- 
down in  the  bed  of  the  Jordan.  If  there  be  a  similar  break  in  the  water- 
courses to  the  south  of  the  sea,  accompanied  with  like  volcanic  characters, 
there  can  scarce  be  a  doubt  that  the  whole  ghor  or  valley  has  sunk  from  some 
extraordinary  convulsion,  preceded,  most  probably,  by  an  eruption  of  fire, 
and  a  general  conflagration  of  the  bitumen  which  abounded  in  the  plain." 

"  We  entered,"  says  Lieut.  Lynch,  "  upon  this  sea,  with  conflicting  opinions. 
One  of  the  party  skeptical,  and  another,  I  think,  a  professed  unbeliever  of 
the  Mosaic  account.  After  twenty-two  days'  close  investigation,  if  I  am  not 
mistaken,  we  were  unanimous  in  the  conviction  of  the  truth  of  the  scriptural 
account  of  the  destruction  of  the  Cities  of  the  Plain. 

I  received  with  diffidence  the  conclusions  we  have  reached,  simply  as  a  pro- 
test against  the  shallow  deductions  of  would-be  believers." 

With  regard  to  the  manner  in  which  the  cities  were  destroyed,  there  has 
been  a  great  deal  of  conjecture,  for  the  most  part  idly,  or  at  least  unprofitably, 
hazarded.  We  know  that  the  Almighty  usually  operates  with  secondary 
causes,  and  it  may  be,  that  volcanic  agency,  as  has  been  presumed,  was 
the  physical  instrument  employed  by  him  in  this  case ;  that  the  Salt  Sea  was 
formed  by  the  subsidence  of  the  plain,  or  from  the  damming  up  of  the  Jordan 
by  a  current  of  lava,  or  both  combined  ;  and  that  the  showers  of  fire  and 
brimstone  were  occasioned  by  the  fall  of  volcanic  ejections.  But  the  most 
reasonable  supposition  is,  that,  simultaneously  with  the  fire  and  brimstone 
rained  from  Heaven  upon  the  doomed  cities,  volcanic  eruptions  took  place  ; 
that  the  slime-pits,  or  pits  of  bitumen,  according  to  the  version  of  the  Septua- 
gint,  with  which  the  plain  was  filled,  were  inflamed;  and  that  the  combustion  of 
the  soil,  or  the  underlying  strata  was  followed  by  the  subsidence  of  the  plain. 

Warned  by  the  rapidly  increasing  heat,  and  the  debilitated  state  of  his 
party,  that  the  summer  solstice  was  fast  approaching,  Lieutenant  Lynch  broke 
up  his  encampment  on  the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea,  on  the  morning  of  the 
10th  of  May.  The  boats  were  taken  to  pieces,  and  placed  on  the  backs  of 
the  camels  ;  and  the  whole  party  commenced  their  return  journey  to  the  Me- 
diterranean coast. 


OBSERVATIONS 


IN 


NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN 


Histobioal  and  Descriptive  Sketch. — Christiana — The  Myosen  Lake — Life  in  Norway- 
Mountain  Scenery — Norwegian  Hospitality — Norwegian  Liberty — Constitution — Laws— 
The  Storthing — Education — Gottenburg — Gotha  Canal — Rustic  Ball — A  Hoosier — Rura. 
Life  in  Sweden — Stockholm — Gustavus  Adolphus — Swedish  Politeness — Government- 
National  Customs — Upsala — Enchantments  of  Odin — Gustavus  Vasa  and  the  Dalecar- 
lians — Mines  of  Dannemora — The  Laps — Science  and  Literature — Distinguished  Char- 
acters. 

Norway  and  Sweden, 
now  united  into  one  king- 
dom, form  an  extensive 
region,  stretching  from  the 
utmost  verge  of  the  tempe- 
rate zone  far  into  the  frozen 
region  of  the  Arctic  Cir- 
cle, and  comprising  the  im- 
mense area  of  297,000 
square  miles,  of  which 
scarcely  one-half  can  be 
considered  as  belonging  to 
the  civilized  world.  Even 
the  Southern  Districts  have 
a  rugged  and  repulsive  as- 
pect. Forests  of  tall  and 
gloomy  pine  stretch  over 
the  plains,  or  hang  on  the 
sides  of  the  mountains;  the 
ground  for  near  five  months 
of  the  year,  is  buried  under 
the  snow ;  cultivation  ap- 
pears only  in  scattered 
patches,  and  was  long  quite 
insufficient  to  furnish  bread 
for  the  inhabitants. 
The  early  history  of  Scandinavia,  as  this  region  was  anciently  termed,  is 
deeply  involved  in  uncertainty  and  fable.  Scandinavia  has  been  called  "  the 
storehouse  of  nations,"  and  the  "blue-eyed  myriads  from  the  Baltic  coast,"  are 
602 


A   NORWEGIAN   SCENE. 


OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN.  ^03 

supposed  to  have  been  among  the  most  numerous  of  those,  who,  in  ancient 
times,  spread  war  and  desolation  through  Europe. 

"  Scandinavia,  first,  by  a  series  of  formidable  expeditions,  made  a  figure 
in  history  at  the  end  of  the  ninth  century.  Harold  Harfager,  or  the  Fair- 
haired,  the  first  of  the  great  sea-kings  of  the  North,  having  united  the  for- 
merly independent  districts  of  Norway  under  his  sway,  undertook  triumphant 
expeditions  against  Shetland,  Orkney,  and  the  Hebrides.  For  several  cen- 
turies the  Danes  and  Norwegians  held  full  possession  of  those  islands  ;  gave 
a  king  to  England,  and  formed  a  permanent  establishment  in  Normandy. 
The  defeat  of  Haco  in  Scotland,  and  of  Harold  III,  in  England,  during  the 
eleventh  century,  put  an  end  to  this  maritime  dominion  :  and  the  northern 
nations,  notwithstanding  their  immense  supply  of  naval  stores,  have  never 
since  attained  to  more  than  a  secondary  rank  among  the  maritime  powers. 

The  union  of  the  kingdoms  of  Scandinavia,  in  1388,  under  Margaret,  called 
the  Semiramis  of  the  North,  forms  a  memorable  era.  Immediately,  however, 
after  the  death  of  that  able  princess,  the  Swedes  began  to  struggle  for  inde- 
pendence. But  their  repeated  attempts  to  establish  a  separate  kingdom  were 
always  defeated,  till  the  cruel  and  tyrannical  reign  of  Christian  II,  drove 
matters  to  extremity,  and  brought  on  a  new  revolution. 

Gustavus  Vasa,  in  1520,  hoisted  again  the  national  standard  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Dalecarlia,  and,  in  three  years  subsequently,  entered  Stockholm  in 
triumph.  After  a  long  struggle,  the  Danes  were  compelled  to  recognize 
the  independence  of  Sweden. 

The  reign  of  Gustavus  Adolphus  formed  a  glorious  era  for  Sweden.  The 
Protestant  relioion  having  been  established  under  Gustavus  Vasa,  Sweden 
began  to  be  looked  to  as  its  support  when  assailed  by  a  formidable  confeder- 
acy. In  1630,  Gustavus  took  the  field  at  the  head  of  only  ten  thousand 
Swedes  ;  but  around  this  gallant  band  rallied  all  the  Protestant  powers  of 
Germany.  The  splendid  victory  of  Breitenfeld  humbled  the  house  of  Aus- 
tria, and  re-established  the  civil  and  religious  liberties  of  the  empire.  Even 
after  his  fall,  in  the  glorious  field  of  Lutzen,  his  generals  continued  to  wage 
that  desperate  war  of  thirty  years,  which  was  necessary  to  compel  the  Cath- 
olic league  finally  to  renounce  its  pretensions.  Sweden,  at  the  peace,  obtained 
Pomerania,  and  other  important  possessions  in  Germany;  and  continued,  till 
the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  to  exercise  a  powerful  influence  on  the 
affairs  of  Europe. 

The  victories  and  reverses  of  Charles  XII,  threw  a  wild  and  romantic 
luster  around  Sweden,  which  terminated,  however,  in  the  loss  of  her  station 
and  greatness.  Being  defeated  at  Pultowa,  by  the  Czar  Peter,  and  driven  to 
seek  shelter  from  the  Turks  at  Bender,  he  was  obliged  to  purchase  peace  by 
the  sacrifice  of  Livonia,  and  others  of  his  finest  provinces.  The  influence  of 
Sweden  was  thenceforth  confined  within  its  own  barren  limits,  and  it  ranked 
with  difficulty  as  a  power  of  the  second  order.  The  only  remarkable  change 
in  the  course  of  the  century,  was  produced  by  the  revolutions  of  1772  and 
1789,  when  Gustavus  III,  succeeded  in  converting  the  government  into  an 
absolute  monarchy,  though  in  other  respects  his  reign  was  advantageous  to 
fcweden. 


604  OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN. 

The  election  of  Bernadotte,  one  of  Bonaparte's  commanders,  to  fill  the 
throne  left  vacant  through  the  rash  conduct  of  the  legitimate  monarch,  made 
a  great  change  in  the  relations  of  Sweden.  To  conciliate  his  new  subjects,  he 
restored  in  full  plentitude  the  representative  constitution,  which  had  been  re- 
duced to  a  mere  shadow.  Having  joined  the  confederacy  against  his  former 
master,  he  received  Norway  in  compensation  for  the  loss  of  Finland,  and 
had  thus  a  more  compact  and  defensible  territory.  The  Norwegians  ex- 
claimed, not  without  reason,  against  the  compulsory  transference  ;  yet  Den- 
mark had  deprived  them  of  their  free  constitution,  which  they  now  regained, 
and  had  in  so  many  respects  depressed  the  country,  with  the  view  of  concen- 
trating everything  at  Copenhagen,  that  the  connection  now  terminated  had 
been  considered  the  bane  of  Norway. 

The  manufactures  of  these  countries  are  inconsiderable,  and  even  in  the 
common  trades  the  work  is  lazily  and  illy  performed.  The  mines  of  Sweden 
are  very  rich ;  its  iron,  widely  diffused,  is  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  the 
silver  mines  of  Konigsberg  in  Norway  are  the  richest  in  Europe.  The  com- 
merce of  Scandinavia  is  greater  than  unimproved  agriculture,  and  total  want 
of  manufactures  might  lead  us  to  suppose.  But  nature  has  gifted  these 
bleak  regions  with  an  almost  inexhaustible  share  of  timber  and  iron,  two  of 
the  prime  necessaries  of  human  life." 

The  honesty  of  the  people  is  remarkable.  Highway  robbery,  though  it 
has  been  known,  is  exceedingly  rare  ;  and  charity  boxes,  though  often  set  up 
on  the  public  roads,  have  never  been  plundered.  They  have  an  undaunted 
spirit  of  perseverance,  an  honest  love  of  freedom,  and  a  passive  courage 
which  makes  of  them  the  very  best  of  sailors  and  soldiers. 


At  Elsinore,  in  Denmark,  Mr.  Maxwell,*  the  American  traveler,  took  passage 
in  a  steamer  for  Christiana  the  capital  of  Norway.  The  second  morning 
after  the  mountains  of  old  Norway  were  revealed  to  his  delighted  vision,  and 
he  was  soon  treading  the  soil  of  the  Norsemen. 

Christiana  is  a  neat  town  of  about  24,000  inhabitants  ;  but  usually  very 
dull  except  during  the  sessions  of  the  Storthing  or  Congress  of  the  nation. 
From  this  place  he  journeyed  into  the  interior  for  a  few  days  to  see  the 
country,  and  the  manners  and  customs  of  its  people.  He  departed  with  his 
comrades  from  the  capital  in  carioles,  a  conveyance  resembling  our  sulky, 
"  en  route"  for  Lake  Myosen,  some  forty  miles  north  of  that  city.  The  sta- 
tions where  they  successively  changed  carioles  and  horses,  united  the  charac- 
teristics of  farm-houses  and  inns,  were  neat  and  comfortable,  and  provided  with 
abundant,  though  plain  fare.  The  farmers  are  all  obliged  by  law  to  furnish 
each,  in  turn,  at  the  requisition  of  the  master  of  the  station,  horses  and  con- 
veyances for  travelers.  It  is  a  good  arrangement  for  all  parties,  the  farmers 
being  well  compensated,  and  the  traveler  enabled  to  proceed  fast  or  slow, 
and  stop  at  pleasure  as  if  in  his  own  vehicle. 


*  This  article  is  abridged  from  the  work  of  John  S.  Maxwell,  entitled  "  The  Czar,  nis 
court  and  People,  including  a  Tour  in  Sweden  and  Norway,"  and  Baird's  Northern 
Europe, 


OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN.  605 

At  the  little  hamlet  of  Minde  he  embarked  on  board  of  a  small  iron  steam- 
er, for  the  northern  end  of  the  lake,  which  although  the  longest  in  Nor- 
way is  but  seventy  miles  in  length,  with  a  width  varying  from  two  to  ten 
miles.  The  country  on  each  shore  is  gently  sloping,  and  covered  with  beau- 
tiful farms. 

He  had  a  fine  opportunity  of  seeing  on  board,  "  the  Bonder"  or  farmer 
proprietors  of  Norway,  of  which  a  large  proportion  of  the  population  are 
composed  and  as  fine  a  race  of  people  as  exist.  Their  costume  was  similar 
to  that  of  the  same  class  among  us.  At  Lillehammer,  at  the  northern  end 
of  the  lake,  they  again  took  carioles,  and  passed  up  the  beautiful  valley  of 
the  Guldebrands ;  through  it  winds  a  clear  stream  of  water,  and  on  each 
side  are  the  houses  and  farms  of  the  Bonder,  exhibiting  a  charming  picture 
of  industry  and  comfort.  The  dwellings  are  of  logs,  weather-boarded  and 
painted ;  luxuriant  crops  of  grass  covered  the  fields. 

Many  of  the  farms  are  irrigated  by  means  of  water  brought  from  the 
mountain  rills  and  distributed  by  troughs,  which  simple  mode  brings  im- 
mense returns.  Usually  the  farms  are  small ;  but  this  is  compensated  for  by 
ttt*  abundance  of  the  pasture  enabling  many  of  the  farmers  to  keep  thirty  or 

h  a  opting  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  and  a  few  other  foreign  luxuries,  the 
farmer  produces  everything,  dressing  in  homemade  cloth,  wearing  home- 
made leather,  and  drinking  homemade  whisky.  The  cottages  of  the  farm 
servants  are  neat  and  comfortable  and  stand  near  the  residence  of  the  pro- 
prietor;  the  servants  holding  a  relation  here  similar  to  that  of  the  "helps" 
in  the  family  of  a  New  England  farmer. 

The  farmers  or  their  servants  make  all  their  furniture;  the  cobbler  and 
the  tinker,  as  was  customary  in  "  olden  times,"  in  our  country,  tramp  from 
house  to  house  to  "  do  up"  all  the  little  jobs  in  their  respective  vocations, 
generally  receiving  their  pay  in  grain  or  butter  and  cheese.  In  the  interior 
of  Norway  business  is  mainly  carried  on  by  barter.  The  wealth  of  the 
people  is  acquired  within  themselves,  and  arises  from  the  industry  of  the 
farmers  and  fishermen.  Her  principal  mineral  wealth  is  a  silver  mine,  and 
she  exports  chiefly  fish,  lumber,  iron,  and  copper.  The  established  religion 
is  Lutheran. 

The  Norwegians  resemble  the  Danes  and  Swedes,  and  are  essentially  the 
same  people.  They  are  strong,  active,  and  capable  of  enduring  severe  labor; 
yellow  and  reddish  hair  is  very  prevalent.  In  patriotism  no  people  surpass 
them.  Everything  relating  to  "old  Norway"  has  charms  for  them,  and 
even  their  bleak  and  dreary  mountains  are  dear  to  their  hearts. 

The  Norwegians  are  fond  of  amusements ;  the  winter  is  the  season  foi 
social  enjoyments,  and  the  holidays  are  observed  with  universal  jollity  and 
good  cheer.  Parties  go  out  to  hunt  the  reindeer  and  the  elk,  and  merry 
sleighing  parties  make  a  regular  round  of  visits  from  farm  to  farm. 

It  was  on  a  Saturday  that  Mr.  Maxwell  returned  to  Lillehammer,  a  small 
place  consisting  of  only  a  few  scattered  houses,  yet  the  largest  inland  town 
in  Norway.  Saturday  night  is  observed  in  this  country,  as  in  New  England, 
as  part  of  the  Sabbath;  the  old  folks  gossip  and  the  young  make  love.     The 


606  OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN. 

next  day  he  attended  the  little  church  of  Lillehammer  which  was  crowded 
with  country  people.  The  short  gown  and  petticoat,  so  general  in  the  agri- 
cultural districts  of  Europe,  were  worn  by  the  women.  The  men  were 
clothed  in  gray  homespun,  and  in  some  instances  their  heads  were  sur- 
mounted by  bright  scarlet  caps. 

The  next  day  they  continued  their  journey  along  in  a  south-eastern  direction, 
and  were  everywhere,  day  after  day,  received  with  unbounded  hospitality, 
Every  peasant  they  passed  lifted  his  hat  and  bowed,  and  at  every  house  a 
frank  welcome  greeted  them.  The  station-houses  furnished  abundance  of 
good  fare,  among  which  was  coffee  of  an  excellent  quality.  This  is  used  in 
immoderate  quantities  by  the  women,  and  by  the  men  a  sort  of  strong,  fiery 
but  pure  whisky  called  Finhel.  It  is  distilled  at  every  farm-house,  from 
potatoes,  and  is  taken  regularly  the  first  thing  every  morning,  and  the  last 
every  night,  in  sickness  and  in  health  ;  being  considered  by  the  Norwegians 
as  a  universal  panacea  for  all  human  ills.  The  people  are  enormous  feeders, 
eating  generally  four,  and  sometimes  five  times  a  day,  yet  dyspepsia,  and 
kindred  diseases  are  rare. 

Leaving  the  valley  of  the  lake  in  their  rear,  their  road  crossed  mountain 
after  mountain,  continually  presenting  every  variety  of  picturesque  scenery, 
until  they  arrived  at  Jonsrud,  about  a  dozen  miles  northwest  of  Christiana, 
From  thence  they  passed  along  on  the  eastern  side  of  Christiana  bay  or  fiord. 
While  driving  leisurely  along  through  a  beautiful  region,  their  guide  stopped 
to  light  his  pipe  at  a  neat  vine-covered  cottage  charmingly  nestled  by  the 
road-side. 

As  they  olrove  up,  the  proprietor,  a  tall  powerful  man,  in  his  shirt  sleeves, 
advanced  and  met  them  with  great  cordiality,  stating  in  English  that  having 
learned  from  their  guide  they  were  Americans,  he  hoped,  in  the  name  of  all 
that  was  great  and  glorious  in  the  United  States  and  Norway,  that  they 
would  not  pass  his  door  without  allowing  him  the  pleasure  of  their  company 
and  conversation. 

The  reception  was  so  cordial  and  warm-hearted  that  they  could  not  resist ; 
but  passing  through  the  little  front  garden,  entered  the  dwelling  and  were 
presented  to  the  lady  of  the  domicile,  who  was  employed  in  sewing  in  com- 
pany with  several  young  ladies.  She  conducted  them  into  an  adjoining  room. 
A  large  map  of  the  United  States  and  the  portraits  of  American  presidents 
hung  on  the  wall.  "  We  looked,"  says  Mr.  Maxwell,  "  from  one  to  the  other 
in  amazement,  and  at  last  our  eyes  met  those  of  the  delighted  host.  '  You 
should  have  been  here  a  few  days  since,'  said  he,  speaking  with  a  vehemence 
that  increased  our  surprise, — '  you  should  have  been  here  on  the  fourth  of 
July ; — you  should  have  seen  the  flag  of  the  United  States  and  the  flag  of 
Norway  flying  from  the  same  staff  in  glorious  unity : — it  was  the  birthday 
of  Oscar,  our  youthful  king  and  president,  and  in  his  honor  I  hoisted  the  flag 
of  Norway : — it  was  the  birthday  of  American  Independence,  and  in  honor 
of  that  independence,  I  hoisted  the  flag  of  your  renowned  country.  Come 
to  my  garden ;  come  see  the  laurel  I  have  from  the  Alleghany  mountains, 
and  I  am  sure  you  will  feel  at  home  in  Norway.' 

"  Now  it  is  easier  to  imagine  than  to  describe  the  sensations  that  resulted 


OBSERVATIONS  IN    NORWAY    AND  SWEDEN  qq-j 

from  this  unexpected  and  unusual  occurrence.  The  enthusiastic  greeting, 
and  the  noble  allusions  to  our  distant  land,  increased  the  ardor  of  our  feel« 
mgs,  and  gave  expression  to  our  love  for  this  country  and  this  people.  We 
caught  the  hand  of  the  giant  Norseman,  whose  broad  bare  neck,  and  head 
of  flaxen  hair,  and  bright  blue  eyes,  seemed  radiant  with  manly  beauty;  and 
cold  him,  as  well  as  we  were  able,  the  sincere  and  heart-felt  sympathy  we 
felt  for  the  glory  and  the  happiness  of  Norway.  It  is  not  unusual  in  Europe 
to  meet  with  those  who  admire,  or  pretend  to  admire,  the  United  States ;  nor 
is  it  difficult  to  find  those  whose  prejudices  have  been  excited  against  both 
its  institutions  and  its  people,  by  well-paid  authors,  whose  books  and  papers 
are  printed  and  published  for  this  very  purpose  by  governments  and  inte- 
rested parties ;  but  it  is  only  in  Norway — Norway,  surrounded  on  every  side 
with  despotic  governments  and  miserable  populations  —  Norway,  free  and 
independent,  and  enjoying  the  blessings  that  result  from  freedom  and  inde- 
pendence, that  the  political  and  social  happiness  of  a  republican  people  is 
appreciated  and  understood. 

"A  repast,  principally  composed  of  fish  of  various  kinds,  fresh  from  the 
fiord,  awaited  us  in  the  room  decorated  with  miserable  engravings  of  the 
presidents — from  Washington,  looking  as  if  he  was  afflicted  with  mumps,  to 
Van  Buren,  the  beau -ideal  of  'a  used  up  man.'  We  were  attended  by  the 
lady  of  our  host.  The  ladies  of  Norway — the  ladies  both  old  and  young, 
even  of  the  wealthiest  and  most  influential  families  —  superintend  every 
household  matter,  invariably  wait  at  table,  and  supply  the  wants  and  wishes 
of  the  guest.  Although  this  results  from  custom,  it  is  followed,  in  many 
families,  more  from  choice  than  necessity ;  and  although  it  may  appear  very 
singular  to  those  who  have  never  witnessed  it,  it  does  not  seem  at  all  strange 
in  the  country.  To  be  a  good  housekeeper,  and  to  know  how  to  provide  for 
the  comforts  of  a  family,  and  to  care  for  the  entertainment  of  the  stranger,  is 
one  of  the  requisites  in  a  Norwegian  wife.  It  certainly  does  not  detract  from 
the  beauty  or  accomplishments  of  the  Norwegian  women,  and  to  it  we  may 
trace  much  of  the  domestic  happiness  of  Norwegian  life.  In  this  instance, 
at  least,  we  were  honored  with  the  personal  attention  of  one  of  the  first 
women  in  the  kingdom;  a  lady  whose  refinement  is  as  illustrious  as  her  birth, 
and  we  saw  nothing  but  what  increased  our  admiration  and  respect.  After 
a  substantial  meal,  the  lady  retired,  when  Rhenish  and  French  wines,  Edin- 
burgh ale,  Scotch  whisky,  and  a  variety  of  liquors,  were  placed  upon  tie 
table.  There  was  no  escape  from  bumpers.  These  people  have  a  way  of 
finishing  and  replenishing  their  goblets  in  double  quick  time,  and  our  hoat 
was  one  of  those  who  would 

*        *        *         '  conjure  the  ghost  of  the  great  Rory  0'  More, 
And  bumper  his  horn  with  him,  twenty  times  o'er/ 

We  talked  long  and  much  of  Norway  and  America ;  and  the  Norseman, 
overflowing  with  wine  and  patriotism,  broke  forth  in  song." 

After  repeated  solicitations  to  prolong  their  visit  they  bade  farewell  to  this 
generous  Norwegian,  not  however  without  his  first  exacting  a  promise  to 
send  out  a  hickory  to  plant  beside  his  laurel,  for  their  entertainer  was  a 


608  OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY   AND  SWEDEN. 

thorough-going  Jackson  man,  revering  the  memory  of  old  Hickory  with  al- 
most perfect  idolatry. 

From  thence  they  proceeded  to  Holmenstrand  ;  then  crossed  the  Christiana 
fiord  to  Tronwic,  on  its  eastern  border,  visited  the  cataract  of  Halfslun,  one  of 
the  finest  in  Europe,  and  then  proceeded  to  Moss,  on  the  Christiana  fiord. 
There  they  took  a  steamer,  coming  down  from  Christiana,  for  Gottenburg, 
and  thus  left  the  pleasant  land  of  Norway. 

Norway  has  the  most  free  government  in  Europe.  With  her,  at  a  very 
early  date,  originated  trial  by  jury,  which  is  a  Norwegian  institution.  Prior 
to  the  year  1814  Norway  was  under  the  mild  dominion  of  Denmark.  In 
that  year  the  crowns  of  Norway  and  Sweden  were  united  in  one,  and  the 
executive  power  vested  in  Charles  John  Bernadotte,  the  king  of  Sweden. 
At  that  time  the  people  of  Norway  elected  representatives  to  a  convention, 
which  in  the  short  space  of  six  weeks  adopted  their  present  noble  constitu- 
tion, which  was  accepted  by  Bernadotte.  This  instrument  guarantees  the 
liberty  of  the  press ;  entire  freedom  of  discussion  ;  allows  the  people  to  make 
their  own  laws  ;  gives  every  native  the  right  of  voting,  provided  he  pays 
taxes  or  owns  a  freehold  worth  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  :  to  this  how- 
ever are  excepted  criminals,  insane  or  foolish  people,  and  office-holders! 

The  real  government  of  Norway  is  the  Storthing,  or  Congress,  which 
assembles  once  in  three  years ;  but  in  extraordinary  cases  the  king,  at  any 
time,  can  convene  it.  When  it  assembles  it  elects  one  fourth  of  its  members 
to  constitute  an  upper-house,  or  senate.  Each  of  its  two  branches  has  powers 
similar  to  those  of  the  two  branches  of  the  American  congress.  The  power 
of  the  king  is  very  slight,  about  equal  to  that  of  our  president.  If  he  refuses 
to  sign  any  bill  it  is  returned  to  the  Storthing ;  if  two  successive  congresses 
again  pass  it,  if  even  by  the  smallest  majority,  it  becomes  a  law  in  spite  of 
the  veto  of  his  majesty.  Our  republican  constitution  requires  a  vote  of  two- 
thirds.  The  Storthing  passed  a  law  providing  for  the  abolition  of  all  heredi- 
tary titles  of  nobility.  The  king  twice  vetoed  the  measure  ;  and  when  it  was 
before  a  third  Storthing,  he  went  with  a  large  force  to  Christiana  to  overawe 
that  body.  The  excitement  was  tremendous  and  civil  war  threatened  the 
annihilation  of  the  constitution.  But  the  Storthing  was  undismayed  ;  the  bill 
passed,  and  now  not  a  baron  treads  the  soil  of  Norway. 

The  Norwegians  claim  that  their  government  is  better  and  more  democratic 
than  ours — because  their  senate  is  chosen  for  a  short  term,  and  from  the 
lower  house,  which  is  fresh  from  the  people — because  the  king,  being  the  he- 
reditary president  of  Norway,  possesses  no  influence  that  can  be  injurious  to 
the  country,  and  that  they  are  saved  from  all  the  immoral  tendencies,  the  in- 
trigue and  corruption,  consequent  upon  the  election  of  a  chief  magistrate 
from  the  people,  as  with  us.  They  thus  flatter  themselves  they  are  free  from 
all  the  evils,  and  enjoy  all  the  blessings  of  democracy. 

In  the  country  the  voters  meet  at  the  parish-church,  and  the  pastor  pre- 
sides ;  in  the  cities,  the  magistrates  are  the  chairmen.  In  the  cities  two,  and 
in  the  country,  one  elector  is  chosen  for  every  hundred  inhabitants,  which 
electors,  in  turn,  meet  and  choose  deputies  to  the  Storthing,  and  thus  is  this 
body  formed.     The  Storthing  is  a  curious  assemblage  of  pastors,  lawyers, 


OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN.  609 

and  farmers.  Some  of  the  latter  are  noted  for  their  practical  intelligence; 
and  by  a  simple  forcible  style  of  eloquence.  Their  pay  is  about  two  dollars 
per  day,  out  of  which,  by  close  economy,  some  of  the  country  members  con- 
trive to  save  and  carry  home  considerable  sums,  with  which  to  enrich  their 
farms. 

The  civil  law  is  admirably  managed  and  administered  in  Norway.  The 
people  elect  in  each  school-district,  a  justice,  before  whom  every  lawsuit  must 
originate.  In  this  court,  no  lawyers  are  allowed  to  practice,  but  each  of  the 
parties  are  required  to  come  and  state  their  own  case.  The  justice  notes  all 
the  evidence,  and  then  after  due  consideration,  endeavors  to  reconcile  the  dis- 
pute to  the  satisfaction  alike  of  plaintiff  and  defendant.  This  is,  therefore, 
called  the  court  of  Reconciliation.  If  his  judgment  is  accepted,  as  it  gener- 
ally is,  it  is  recorded  in  the  court  above,  the  court  of  Record.  If  appealed, 
the  case  must  go  up  to  the  District  court,  simply  on  the  written  evidence  of 
the  justice,  and  all  the  legal  argument  rests  on  the  original  evidence;  so  no 
chance  is  given  for  judge  or  jury  to  be  mystified  by  the  sharp  practice  of 
pettifogging  lawyers.  Not  one  suit  in  ten  but  is  settled  before  reaching  the 
higher  courts,  which  proves  an  immense  saving  to  the  public,  in  the  escape 
from  unnecessary  litigation. 

The  judges  are  responsible  to  the  Superior  Court  for  errors  of  judgment, 
ignorance,  delay,  partiality,  or  prejudice,  and  when  convicted,  liable,  pecu- 
niarily, to  the  injured  party.  As  a  consequence,  the  lawyers  and  judges  are 
noted  for  their  integrity  and  learning,  and  exert  an  excellent  influence  among 
the  people.  Education  is  universally  diffused  in  Norway,  and  the  schools 
supported  by  a  poll-tax. 

Mr.  Maxwell  arrived  at  Gottenburg,  on  the  western  coast  of  Sweden,  with- 
out the  recurrence  of  any  especial  incident.  It  is  the  second  commercial  city 
of  the  nation;  and  contains  about  30,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  great  center 
of  the  timber  and  iron  trade  of  the  south-western  part  of  Sweden,  and  has 
considerable  trade  with  the  United  States.  The  town  is  built  of  brick,  and 
covered  with  stucco  of  a  dark  white;  its  environs  are  beautiful  and  picturesque. 

From  Gottenburg,  he  crossed  the  country  to  Stockholm,  in  steamboats, 
through  the  Gotha  and  Trolhaetta  canals,  which,  with  the  intervening  lakes, 
form  a  complete  navigable  communication  across  the  center  of  Sweden. 
While  detained  one  evening  in  the  interior,  the  passengers  went  ashoiv  ; 
having  learned  that  the  peasantry,  in  a  barn  near  by,  were  having  a  men  y 
time,  he  went  in  to  see  the  rustic  dance  of  Sweden. 

The  men  were  attired  in  roundabouts,  gray  breeches,  and  thick  heavy 
shoes  ;  the  women,  in  long  gowns,  and  queer  white  caps,  and  all  were  sing- 
ing, dancing,  and  capering,  with  childlike  glee.  Suddenly  there  entered  -<\ 
tall,  fine-looking  man,  with  a  violin,  amid  cheers  and  clapping  of  hands.  He 
immediately  discovered  he  was  a  fellow-passenger,  a  countryman,  and  a 
Hoosier,  from  Indiana.  Although  an  entire  stranger  to  them,  and  their 
language,  he  became  a  great  favorite  with  the  men  and  the  light-haired  and 
light-complexioned  damsels,  entering  into  the  spirit  of  the  thing  with  his 
whole  soul.  After  a  few  trials  to  teach  them  the  dance,  he  soon  had  the 
whole  of  those  Swedish  rustics  in  full  and  successful  movement,  to  the 
39 


610  OBSERVATION'S  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN. 

bewitching  sounds  of  "  Old  Dan  Tucker."  The  scene  was  inexpressibly  ludi- 
crous— the  fiddler  himself  leading  the  dance,  and  the  whole  assembly  follow- 
ing after,  with  an  ardor  that  threatened  to  shake  down  the  rafters  of  the 
building.  Mr.  Maxwell  afterward  met  him  at  Paris,  a  favorite  in  its  most 
polished  society. 

The  voyage  between  Gottenburg  and  Stockholm,  was  of  four  days'  dura- 
tion. The  scenery  along  the  route  is  varied  and  picturesque.  Lake  Wen- 
ner,  one  of  the  lakes  through  which  the  traveler  passes,  is,  with  a  single 
exception,  the  largest  in  Europe,  being  one  hundred  miles  long  by  fifty  broad, 
and  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water.  The  traveler,  on  this  route,  has  a  fine  op- 
portunity for  observing  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  Swedish  rural  popu- 
lation. They  are  light-hearted,  plain,  frugal,  hard-working  folks.  In  the 
summer,  the  women  and  children,  as  the  boats  arrive  at  the  locks,  come  on 
board  with  strawberries,  cakes,  butter,  and  milk,  to  sell  to  the  passengers. 
At  harvest-time,  the  men  and  women  are  busy  in  the  meadows,  working  to- 
gether, making  hay  ;  when  the  sun  goes  down,  far  and  wide  are  seen  the  fra- 
grant fields  of  mown  hay,  and  the  weary  hay-makers  returning  to  their 
humble  homes. 

The  houses  of  the  peasants  are  log-cabins,  in  many  cases  painted  red  ;  but 
generally  are  left  in  the  natural  color  of  the  wood,  which  soon  assumes  a 
weather-beaten,  brownish  appearance  ;  their  roofs  are  tiled.  Wooden  fences 
are  frequent,  but  differ  from  ours,  the  rails  being  laid  slantingly  upon  one 
another,  in  a  straight  line,  just  like  the  blocks  which  children  have  first 
placed  in  a  row,  and  then  pushed  over.  Stakes  are  put  on  each  side,  firmly 
driven  into  the  ground,  which  keep  the  rails  in  proper  position. 

Throughout  Sweden,  the  parish-church  is  the  most  important  building  in 
every  large  village.  These,  invariably,  have  steeples,  and  are  either  of  brick 
or  stone,  and  painted  a  bright  white  color/  Their  appearance  is  very  pleasant, 
reminding  the  traveler  he  is  in  a  Christian  land.  The  church-going  bell 
never  sounds  more  sweetly  to  the  ear  of  one  who  loves  the  house  of  God, 
than  when  heard  in  a  foreign  land.  The  American  traveler  will  be  generally 
pleased  with  his  fellow-passengers  here,  usually  Germans  and  Swedes,  and 
extremely  pleasant  people. 

Stockholm,  the  capital  of  Sweden,  contains  about  80,000  inhabitants.  Its 
situation  is  picturesque  and  beautiful ;  it  stands  on  seven  islands,  and  the  op- 
posite banks  of  the  main-land,  just  at  the  point  where  Lake  Malar  joins  a 
bay  which  puts  off  from  the  Baltic.  On  one  of  the  islands,  stands  the  mag- 
nificent royal  palace,  one  of  the  most  noble  structures  of  the  kind  in  Europe. 

In  a  small  room  in  this  palace,  are  many  curious  relics  of  the  distinguished 
men  of  Sweden,  among  which,  is  the  hat  worn  by  Charles  XII,  when  he  re- 
ceived his  death  wound,  and  the  shirt  Gustavus  Adolphus  had  on  at  the  fatal 
battle   of  Lutzen,  in   1632. 

Gustavus  Adolphus  has  been  considered  the  most  able  king  of  modern 
times,  and  of  the  greatest  military  genius.  Many  of  the  most  important  im- 
provements in  the  art  of  war,  were  made  by  him — such  as  arranging  regi- 
ments in  ranks  of  three,  instead  of  nine  men  deep,  which  was  the  old  way  ; 
the  substitution  of  light  muskets  with   flint  locks,  instead  of  the  old  heavy 


OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN.  QH 

match  locks  ;  and  attaching  the  bayonet  to  the  side  of  the  musket  barrel,  in- 
stead of  inserting  it,  when  needed,  in  the  muzzle.  These,  with  his  goodness, 
humanity,  and  high  moral,  and  religious  character,  have  shed  an  endearing  lus- 
ter upon  his  memory. 

The  houses  of  Stockholm  are  generally  of  brick,  stuccoed  and  painted  white, 
and  from  three  to  five  stories  high,  and  covered  with  tiles.  In  the  oldest 
parts  the  streets  are  so  narrow  and  crooked  as  scarcely  to  allow  a  cart  to 
pass.  Nearly  all  are  paved  with  small  round  stones — a  few  only  have  com- 
fortable side-walks,  and  some  none. 

The  inhabitants  of  Stockholm  are  a  remarkably  handsome  race.  The  men 
are  tall  and  manly,  and  wear  a  mustache  almost  white,  and  perfectly  in  keep- 
ing with  the  light  hair  and  eyes  of  the  north.  The  women  are  surpassing 
fair,  in  face  and  figure  ;  with  light  complexions,  blue  eyes,  and  golden 
tresses. 

Stockholm  is  so  far  north,  that  in  the  summer  solstice,  the  nights,  for  two 
>r  three  weeks,  are  sufficiently  light,  from  the  refraction  of  the  sun's  rays, — 
owing  to  its  being  so  little  beneath  the  horizon — for  the  performance  of  almost 
any  business.  Dr.  Baird  says,  that  when  one-time  traveling  during  that  sea- 
son, from  Stockholm  to  Upsala,  he  read  a  letter  at  midnight,  with  ease,  al- 
though at  the  time,  in  a  dense  forest.  "And  the  year  after,"  he  continues, 
M  at  the  same  season,  we  often  whiled  away  our  leisure  moments  by  sitting  at 
the  window  of  the  house,  when  we  stayed  on  the  English  Quay,  at  St.  Pe- 
tersburg, a  city  only  half  a  degree  north  of  Stockholm,  and  reading  until 
midnight."  During  that  period,  scarcely  a  cloud  was  to  be  seen  in  the  sky, 
which  had,  both  day  and  night,  that  light  blue  so  peculiar  to  these  northern 
regions,  in  that  season.  Scarcely  a  star  was  visible  in  the  heavens  at  night, 
and  the  moon,  even  when  full,  hardly  formed  a  shadow.  At  that  period,  the 
appearance  of  things,  as  night  sets  in,  is  unnatural  and  deathlike.  Business 
comes  to  an  end  before  the  sun  goes  down,  and  all  nature  falls  into  repose 
while  it  is  yet  light :  and,  to  a  stranger,  as  he  passes  the  streets,  either  of 
Stockholm  or  of  St.  Petersburg,  he  seems  to  be  in  the  midst  of  a  deserted 
city.  No  living  thing  appears,  as  he  passes  street  after  street,  save  some  so- 
litary sentinel,  with  his  gray  coat  and  musket. 

The  Swedes  are  unusually  polite,  excelling  the  French  in  the  polish  of 
their  manners.  The  ease  and  gracefulness  of  even  the  peasants  in  their 
movements,  and  the  pleasant  tones  of  their  voices,  strike  a  stranger  very 
agreeably.  Many  of  the  little  expressions  too  they  use,  are  very  sweet ;  and 
when  a  Swede  meets  his  friend  he  thanks  him  for  the  pleasure  he  had  when 
he  last  saw  him,  no  matter  how  short  a  time  has  elapsed. 

The  government  of  Sweden  is  a  sort  of  constitutional  monarchy,  the 
functions  of  which  are  vested  in  a  hereditary  king  and  the  Diet  or  Parlia- 
ment, which  meets  once  in  five  years.  It  consists  of  four  houses  :  1st  the 
House  of  Nobles,  2d,  the  House  of  the  Clergy,  3d,  the  House  of  the  Peas- 
ants, or  representatives  of  the  farming  population.  This  house  resembles 
what  a  similar  assembly  of  our  plainest  farmers  would  be,  dressing  much  as  oui 
farmers  do  on  public  occasions.  A  few,  however,  have  the  costume  which 
prevails  among  the  peasants  of  their  native  districts.     There  is  one  remark- 


612  OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN. 

able  peculiarity  in  the  organization  of  this  house,  which  consists  in  having  a 
legal  adviser  under  oath,  who  sits  at  the  speaker's  right  hand,  and  keeps  the 
house  from  adopting  any  unconstitutional  or  illegal  measure.  A  good  deal 
of  talent  is  in  the  Diet;  business  proceeds  very  slow,  for  the  members,  like 
those  of  our  Congress,  are  interminable  speech -makers.  The  Diet  votes  by 
houses,  each  house  having  one  vote  ;  in  most  cases  a  majority,  that  is,  three 
houses  are  sufficient  to  pass  a  law,  but  to  be  decisive,  it  must  have  the  signa- 
ture of  the  king. 

Bernadotte,  the  late  king,  was  a  remarkable  man,  and  under  his  wise  ad- 
ministration the  country  flourished  beyond  former  example.  He  was  tall 
and  erect  in  carriage,  and  looked  every  inch  a  monarch.  He  was  born  in  the 
south  of  France,  entered  the  French  army  and  had  become  a  general  before 
Bonaparte  had  obtained  distinction.  He  subsequently  served  under  Napo- 
leon ;  but  being  a  republican  was  opposed  to  his  ambitious  views.  His  kind 
treatment  of  2000  Swedes  whom  he  took  prisoners  near  Lubec  in  1806,  first 
brought  him  to  the  notice  of  the  Swedish  nation ;  these  men,  returning  tc 
Sweden,  filled  the  country  with  his  praise.  In  August  1810,  the  Diet  chose 
him  crown  prince  of  Sweden.  Napoleon  soon  after  endeavored  to  engage 
Bernadotte  to  forward  his  ambitious  views.  This  he  not  only  refused,  but 
seeing  that  Sweden  could  not  preserve  her  nationality,  he  joined  the  allies 
and  rendered  most  efficient  aid.  Denmark  favored  Napoleon;  Bernadotte 
marched  against  that  country  and  compelled  them  to  cede  Norway  to  Sweden. 
"It  has  fallen  to  our  lot,"  says  Dr.  Baird,  from  whose  work  on  Northern 
Europe  we  derive  many  facts  in  these  pages,  "  to  have  several  private  audi- 
ences from  his  majesty.  These  interviews  were  full  of  interest.  During  one 
of  these  audiences  the  king  observed,  that  he  had  ever  taken  a  lively  interest 
in  the  history  of  the  United  States,  and  he  was  astonished  at  their  unparal- 
leled progress.  But  he  expressed,  in  the  most  earnest  manner,  the  necessity 
of  the  maintenance  of  the  Union,  and  of  guarding  against  everything 
which  might  lead  to  division.  Civil  war  will  in  all  probability  follow  division 
and  in  the  end  despotism  must  take  the  place  of  freedom.  We  wish  that 
those  men  among  us  who  talk  so  lightly  about  a  division  of  our  country, 
could  have  heard  the  just  and  clear  views  of  this  great  man  on  this  topic. " 

The  present  population  of  Sweden  is  about  three  and  a  half  millions ;  one 
seventh  of  this  number  are  Laps  and  Fins.  Few  of  the  Fins  are  now 
subject  to  Sweden,  but  in  the  northern  provinces  of  Norway,  they  have  ex- 
tended themselves  as  colonists.  They  are  industrious  and  robust,  and  are 
probably  of  the  same  race  as  the  Laplanders  although  differing  from  them 
morally  and  physically. 

The  standing  army  of  Sweden  amounts  to  33,X)00  men.  It  is  mainly 
composed  of  men  furnished  from  the  various  districts.  The  owners  of  a 
certain  number  of  acres  are  obliged  to  furnish  one  soldier,  and  provide  him  with 
a  farm  and  his  pay.  During  his  absence  they  must  attend  to  his  farm  and 
family,  and  in  case  of  his  decease  support  his  wife  and  children. 

The  custom  introduced  into  the  army  by  Gustavus  Adolphus  of  praying 
and  singing  hymns,  is  still  maintained  in  some  branches  of  the  service,  and  it 
is  not  unusual  to  see  the  soldiers,  morning  and  evening,  engaged  in  their 


OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN.  613 

devotions.  The  Swedish  troops  are  probably  the  best  looking  in  Europe  No 
man  is  admitted  into  the  army  without  a  certificate  of  good  character  from 
the  clergyman  of  his  parish. 

The  established  church  in  Sweden  is  Lutheran,  and  the  form  of  worship 
Episcopal.  It  is  closely  connected  with  the  state.  By  law  the  pastor  can 
compel  every  member  of  his  parish  to  attend  worship.  No  person  can  be  a 
witness  in  Court,  or  accept  an  important  office  unless  he  has  partaken  of  the 
sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  within  a  year.  A  boy  is  commonly  required 
to  make  his  first  communion  before  a  master  will  take  him  as  an  apprentice. 
The  Swedish  clergy  are  a  well  educated  body  of  men.  There  is  a  consider- 
able prevalence  of  the  doctrines  of  Emanuel  Swedenborg ;  but  no  separate 
sect,  no  separate  church  organization,  for  that  would  not  be  allowed. 

The  great  mass  of  the  agricultural  population  of  Sweden  are  mere 
laborers,  and  are  not  owners  of  land  or  houses.  The  owners  of  real  pro- 
perty are  the  true  Bonder  or  Peasant  class,  and  have  a  right  to  vote.  All 
the  laboring  classes,  both  in  town  and  country,  are  obliged  by  law  to  have 
each  a  patron  or  master  who  is  responsible  to  the  government  for  the  conduct 
of  his  client,  and  if  one  such  cannot  find  a  patron  he  is  liable  to  be  imprisoned 
as  a  vagrant.  It  is  a  slavish  custom  and  inconsistent  with  personal  in- 
dependence. 

The  Swedes  have  been  supposed  to  be  an  unusually  moral  people,  but  this 
is  not  true.  Nearly  one  half  of  the  children  born  in  Stockholm  are  illegiti- 
mate, and  about  one  in  nineteen  in  the  country.  Ardent  spirits  are  used  to 
an  enormous  extent,  and  are  productive  of  much  crime  ;  but  the  temperance 
reformation  is  now  extending  its  beneficial  influences  over  the  land.  The 
ministry  too  of  an  established  church  is  also  inimical  to  sound  morals. 
Although  there  are  many  learned  and  devoted  men  among  the  Lutheran 
clergy,  yet  as  in  the  English  Church,  a  large  number  regard  it  merely  as  a 
means  of  livelihood,  and  hence  a  want  of  a  thoroughly  efficient  presentation 
of  the  Gospel  to  the  people. 

Mr.  Maxwell  proceeded  from  Stockholm  to  Upsala,  about  fifty  miles  north, 
Rnd  approached  through  a  finely-cultivated  country.  It  is  the  oldest  town 
in  Sweden,  and  contains  about  6,000  inhabitants.  Here  is  the  most  famous 
university  in  northern  Europe.  Near  the  town  is  supposed  to  have  been  the 
habitation  of  Odin,  or  Wodin,  as  he  was  named  in  the  dialect  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxons.  Three  mounds,  like  those  seen  in  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  are  said 
to  be  the  tombs  of  Odin,  Thor,  and  Freya,  the  deities  of  the  ancient  in- 
habitants of  Scandinavia. 

Odin  flourished  about  the  time  of  the  birth  of  Christ.  He  was  a  great 
warrior  and  legislator,  famous  for  eloquence  and  power'  of  persuasion.  He 
introduced  poetry,  invented  the  Runic  (i.  e.,  mysterious,)  characters,  and 
was  also  proficient  in  music.  The  poets  and  romancers  of  the  north  have 
asserted  he  was  skilled  in  magic.  "That  by  his  tender  and  melodious  airs 
he  could  summon  up  the  spirits  of  the  dead  and  make  the  hills  to  open  and 
expand  with  rapture.  By  his  enchantments  he  directed  the  tempests,  de- 
feated his  enemies,  and  discovered  treasures.  He  was  readily  honored  as  a 
hero  and  worshiped  as  a  god   by  those  then   barbarous  and  superstitious 


614  OBSERVATIONS   IN   NORWAY   AND   SWEDEN. 

people."  The  sacred  stock  of  Odin  reigned  for  a  thousand  years,  and  Upsala 
was  the  seat  of  their  empire  and  their  religion.  The  annals  of  these  pontiff- 
kings  possess  little  that  is  interesting  ;  some  of  them  died  of  drunkenness, 
and  others  through  the  intrigues  of  their  wives  or  courtiers.  In  consequence 
of  their  connection  with  Odin,  many  of  them  were  exalted  to  the  rank  of  gods 
or  demigods,  and  received  the  honors  of  divine  worship.  At  Upsala  was  a 
magnificent  heathen  temple  enriched  with  gold  and  precious  stones,  with 
idols  and  images  of  the  deities  of  War,  of  Thunder,  and  of  Generation.  It 
was  destroyed  about  the  year  1000,  at  which  time  the  rays  of  the  Gospel  are 
said  first  to  have  reached  Sweden.  For  a  long  time  after  the  religion  of  the 
people  was  a  blending  of  Christianity  and  Paganism. 

The  accession  of  Gustavus  Vasa  to  the  throne,  in  1523,  is  the  era  of  the 
Reformation  in  Sweden.  He  possessed  great  decision  and  firmness  of  charac- 
ter and  the  purest  patriotism.  He  made  the  Lutheran  the  established  church 
of  the  land,  and  exhorted  the  multitude  to  embrace  the  Protestant  religion. 
His  bravery  and  heroic  conduct  in  arousing  his  countrymen  to  drive  the 
Danes  from  the  land,  and  securing  its  independence,  have  well  earned  him 
the  name  of  "  the  Washington  of  Sweden." 

The  Dalecarlians,  the  people  through  whose  aid  Vasa  drove  out  the  usurp- 
ing Danes,  reside  in  the  mountainous  province  of  Dalecarne,  or  Dalecarlia, 
about  100  miles  north-west  of  Upsal.  They  resemble  the  Scottish  Highlanders, 
are  the  most  virtuous  people  of  the  kingdom,  and  proud  of  their  ancestral 
recollections. 

Mr.  Maxwell,  while  at  Upsala,  visited  the  famous  Dannemora  mines,  thirty 
miles  north  of  that  city.  These  are  celebrated  for  producing  the  best  iron  in 
Sweden.  Large  quantities  of  it  are  exported  to  England  and  converted  into 
iron.  On  his  route  thither  he  entered  one  of  the  peasants'  cottages  and  found 
the  good  people  making  bread.  This  is  done  only  twice  a  year  in  the  poorer 
districts  of  Sweden.  It  is  made  of  oatmeal  flour,  flavored  with  anise-seed,  and 
formed  into  little  thin  cakes,  which,  before  the  next  semiannual  baking,  grow 
as  hard  as  a  stone,  and  are  only  adapted  to  the  strong  teeth  of  the  peasantry. 
In  seasons  of  scarcity  in  these  northern  countries,  the  inner  rind  of  the  fir 
tree  is  dried,  pulverized,  then  mixed  with  rye  or  oat  flour,  and  made  into 
bread.  The  principal  articles  of  food  in  the  interior  of  Sweden  are  oatmeal 
porridge,  jerked  meat,  and  salt  or  smoked  fish. 

From  Dannemora  he  returned  to  Stockholm,  and  soon  after  left  the  coun- 
try. Dr.  Baird,  when  in  Sweden,  extended  his  travels  much  farther  north, 
and  visited  the  Laps ;  from  information  mainly  derived  from  his  work  we 
conclude  this  article. 

The  entire  nation  of  Laplanders  comprise  about  12,000,  about  one-half  of 
whom  dwell  in  the  northern  parts  of  Sweden,  and  are,  doubtless,  the  original 
race  of  the  country.  Like  the  Arabs,  they  are  wanderers,  and  inhabit  an 
immense  extent  of  country.  While  nominally  Christians,  they  have  a  great 
deal  of  heathenism  existing  among  them — are  extremely  superstitious,  con- 
sulting omens,  etc.  Destitute  of  fixed  abodes,  they  live  in  tents  in  summer, 
and  in  winter  in  huts.  In  the  warm  season  they  wear  coarse  cloth,  procured 
by  exchanging  the  skins  of  reindeer  at  the  settlements  ;  their  winter  dress  is 


OBSERVATIONS  IN  NORWAY  AND  SWEDEN.  ^15 

formed  from  the  reindeer  skins.  Their  riches  consist  in  their  reindeer.  The 
food  of  this  animal,  which  seems  to  be  absolutely  necessary  to  the  existence 
of  these  poor  people,  is  the  white  moss,  which  grows  abundantly  on  the  rocks 
of  the  far  north.  Like  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  Arctic  regions,  they  are  very 
short,  only  about  four  and  a  half  feet  in  height,  and  strongly  built.  They 
travel,  as  is  well  known,  in  the  winter,  with  their  reindeer  tackled  to  sledges. 
With  their  snow-shoes  they  can  go  with  ease  sixty  miles  in  ten  hours.  Their 
moral  and  religious  state  has  excited  the  commiseration  of  Christians  ;  but 
the  Swedish  missionaries  find  it  very  difficult  to  instruct  them,  owing  to  their 
wandering  habits,  and  their  extreme  filth,  from  which  is  generated  an  odor 
detrimental  to  health. 

The  Swedes  are  remarkably  well  educated,  and  it  is  said,  scarcely  one  per- 
son in  a  thousand  but  can  read,  and  but  a  very  few  unable  to  write.  This 
h  is  not  been  so  much  the  result  of  instruction  in  schools  as  at  the  fireside. 
From  generation  to  generation  parents  have  taught  their  children.  In  1684, 
Charles  XI,  required  the  clergy  to  see  that  every  individual  in  their  parishes 
w  as  taught  to  read.  He  also  made  it  a  law  that  no  marriage  should  be  cele- 
brated unless  the  parties  had  partaken  of  the  Lord's  Supper  ;  and  that  none 
should  partake  of  this  ordinance  unable  to  read,  and  uninstructed  in  religion. 
All  this  has  rendered  elementary  teaching  absolutely  necessary,  and  operated 
to  the  general  diffusion  of  education. 

The  number  of  learned  men,  authors  and  artists  in  Sweden,  is  probably 
greater  than  in  any  other  country  of  equal  population  on  the  globe.  Among 
those  best  known  to  our  countrymen  may  be  mentioned  Berzelius,  the  greatest 
living  chemist ;  Jenny  Lind,  and  Miss  Frederika  Bremer,  whose  beautiful  mo- 
ral tales  have  delighted  thousands  in  our  land. 


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